Hi, I'm currently using a Nikon camera.
I want to understand the differences between certain focus settings if you can help me.
There are three setting here which have their own options:
Focus Mode
-Auto Servo
-Single Servo
-Continuous Servo
-Manual Servo
Auto-Focus Area Mode
-Single Point
-Dynamic Area
-3D Tracking
-Auto Area
Release Mode
-Single Frame
-Continuous
-Quiet Shutter Release
-Self Timer
I think I understand release but I don't understand the difference between the first two options.
Thanks if you can help.
>>2723069
>I think I understand release but I don't understand the difference between the first two options.
One is continuous, the other is a single shot. Meaning that if you press the shutter and keep it pressed in continuous you will get tons of pictures, in single frame you will get only one.
>>2723069
>-Single Point
Only uses the selected AF point.
>-Dynamic Area
Initially uses the selected AF point.
But when the subject moves it uses the AF point still on the subject, as long as it's in the selected area.
This is good for things like birds or sports, where it's hard to keep the AF point on the subject all of the time.
>-3D Tracking
Initially uses the selected AF point.
But when you move the camera it will use whatever focus point is still on the subject.
Note this is very similar to dynamic area, only it's optimized for a moving camera rather than a moving subject.
This is good when you like to "focus and recompose" instead of composing and then selecting an AF point.
>-Auto Area
Computer decides what to focus on, based on subject distance and contrast.
Generally only noobs use this.
But might be handy in situations where you can't look through the viewfinder for whatever reason.
>>2723087
Hi, thanks a lot this helped but when I'm using the camera, I can chose both focus mode and af area mode.
So let's say I'm shooting a bird, I know now to use dynamic area but in the focus mode option, what would I use? Continuous servo?
>>2723069
>-Auto Servo
Let computer decide between "single servo" and "continuous servo".
Really only for noobs, higher end Nikon's don't even have this mode.
>-Single Servo
Stops focusing once focus has been acquired.
Note that you can't use "dynamic area" or "3D tracking" with this mode because it's meaningless.
>-Continuous Servo
Keeps focusing to tracks the subject using the mode you selected.
>-Manual Servo
Not "servo", just "manual" - disables AF.
>>2723089
OK I'VE GOT IT.
FOCUS MODE - REFERS TO WHEN OR IF THE CAMERA FOCUSES BASED ON WHAT IT CAN SEE
AF-AREA MODE - REFERS TO THE FOCUS POINTS AND HOW THEY ARE USED
RELEASE MODE - REFERS TO HOW MANY IMAGES ARE CAPTURED
OK GOT IT THANKS
GREAT STUFF
>>2723069
Cambridgeincolour's tutorials.
>>2723088
Dynamic area only works in continuous, so yes.
I also recommend setting "AF-activation" to "AF-ON only".
And then just keep it on continuous servo all the time.
This gives full control over when to focus and when not.
>>2723069
The first and only answer should have been "read your manual" because it's literally all spelled out in the manual.
>>2723092
Hi, I've done this, this is called back button focusing right?
Now I just press that button when I want it to focus, what does this exactly do though? I know it means you don't have to actively change the single servo to continuous and it stops the camera from having to focus only when the shutter is half pushed down but I don't really get the benefit fully.
So let's say I'm shooting a bird. I put it on continuous servo and select dynamic area, then I press continuous shutter. Then I select my middle focus point, aim at the bird and press the AF BUTTON, now let's say the bird begins to move, do I just keep my middle focus point on the bird and it will always be in focus without the camera having to adjust itself?
>>2723095
>this is called back button focusing right?
Yes.
>Now I just press that button when I want it to focus, what does this exactly do though?
Exactly the same as half-pressing the shutter button used to do:
It activates the AF and turns on metering.
Only now you can also press the shutter without activating auto focus. (metering still gets turned on with the half-shutter press).
>let's say the bird begins to move, do I just keep my middle focus point on the bird and it will always be in focus without the camera having to adjust itself?
You TRY to keep the middle focus point on the bird.
But since this is very difficult with long lenses and birds that change direction quickly it will probably move off the center point sometimes.
In that case, as long as it's in the "dynamic area" the camera will continue to track the bird.
Any shots you take now should have the bird in perfect focus.
If the bird goes outside the "dynamic area" the auto focus will first pause, giving you some time to get the bird within the "dynamic area" again.
Any shots you take now will likely have the bird out of focus.
If you fail to get the bird in the dynamic area after about 1 second (on some cameras you can configure this delay) it will focus on the center point again. - in that case you will have to release the AF-ON button, and press it again with the bird under the center AF point.
>>2723113
So when I'm following the bird with the middle focus point, I always have to have my finger on the back button focus?
>>2723121
Correct.
Are we getting a /p/ book this year?
>>2723134
Doesn't seem that way.
>>2723136
Not same Anon, but honestly I'm glad we aren't. Last years could've been better but it was mostly tripfags with mediocre landscapes and street.
>>2723150
Then don't buy it. You're a little late to be complaining about it now. And as usual, you're welcome to do it better, if you're so inclined.
>>2723121
Yes, but it's easier than keeping the shutter half-pressed all that time.
>>2723159
Hey, just stating the obvious.
>>2723159
People are welcome to critique things, especially if you pay for them. It's like writing a bad review for a restaurant and the owner commenting WELL IF YOU DON'T LIKE IT DON'T EAT HERE.
>>2723136
thats a shame i was looking forward to it. i got 13 and 14.
When do you move your body and when do you zoom?
>>2723292
Move my body when I want to play with perspective and compression and intimacy. Zoom when perspective can't be adusted, when I can't get closer or further away, or when I don't feel like carrying a bunch of primes and I want to shoot a cool tall building but also a portrait of the awesome tattood guy who I'm chatting to while waiting for my panini to be done in the oven.
So I bought myself a used A7 about a month ago as my first digital camera after using film for years on end and I have a question regarding Alpha lenses. Why would you need an adapter for pre-digital Minolta AF lenses and what's stopping me from just directly mounting one to the camera? Is it because the AF is driven by a motor in the camera, which the a7 obviously lacks? And if that's true, then wouldn't the adapter change the focal length since they're also meant for crop lenses?
okay guys,
i got a question which might be stupid.
Which Nikon picture control settings will save me the most image information for RAW files, and which one for JPEG files?
[EXIF data available. Click here to show/hide.]
Camera-Specific Properties: Equipment Make Canon Camera Model Canon EOS 50D Camera Software Adobe Photoshop CS4 Windows Photographer Douglas J. Klostermann Maximum Lens Aperture f/2.8 Image-Specific Properties: Image Orientation Top, Left-Hand Horizontal Resolution 96 dpi Vertical Resolution 96 dpi Image Created 2013:04:04 12:56:33 Exposure Time 1/125 sec F-Number f/2.8 Exposure Program Manual ISO Speed Rating 400 Lens Aperture f/2.8 Exposure Bias 0 EV Subject Distance 0.42 m Metering Mode Center Weighted Average Flash No Flash, Compulsory Focal Length 50.00 mm Color Space Information sRGB Image Width 600 Image Height 222 Rendering Normal Exposure Mode Manual White Balance Auto Scene Capture Type Standard
>>2724425
>pre-digital Minolta AF
>crop
wat
>>2724496
raw contains everything.
those settings are for jpegs.
My partner said she would buy me a camera for christmas.
what would be the better purchase.
Contax t2 or the Ricoh gr1v.
>>2724425
The mount at the back of the lens is different from the mount on the camera, so you need an adapter. The Flange distance of the lens is larger than the flange distance of the camera, so you need an adapter. The autofocus on the lens requires a motor to work, which the camera doesn't have, so you need a big stupid cancerous growth of an adapter.
>>2724496
As
>>2724505
said, for raw, your picture modes don't affect them. You get all the information automatically. For JPEG, you will preserve the most information by lowering contrast, saturation, noise reduction, and sharpness all the way down as low as they will go
>>2724509
If you don't know automatically whether you prefer 40mm or 28mm, then I'd say you aren't enough of a photographer to really need either of those, and that you wife is better off buying you a nice Tampon superzoom for your NEX.
>>2724509
It depends entirely on your shooting style and preferences. Without knowing anything about you, we can't answer it any better than a google search can.
>>2723292
Move your body whenever feasible to do so. Zoom when circumstances prevent body movement.
Also, in regards to continuous focus mode, your camera may require you to select how many focus points you want active for the continuous tracking to use (usually 1, 4, several, or all). Better cameras give more flexibility in exactly how much power the continuous mode has to readjust itself in this way. But most important thing about continuous focus: it is an assist. Do not rely on it. Always try your best to keep your subject where you want it in frame and let the af-c, shutter speed, and lens image stabilization be your safety nets. Also, make judicious use of the focus lock button to prevent the camera from changing focus when you dont want it to. Getting a feel for the interplay between these systems is key to maximizing your odds of hitting focus on a fast moving subject.
Another question about this focusing.
Let's say there's a bird on a branch and a background of mountains.
I want to have the bird in the top right of the frame. So, I hover my middle focus point over the bird, hit af, then i move the frame so that the bird is in the top right.
Will the bird be in focus? Or will it focus on what is it in the camera's middle point now? (and by that I don't mean actively do it, i mean just general focus)
>>2724663
Depends on if you're holding down the button.
Really, your camera's manual will explain 100% of this in very simple terms.
>>2724664
But if I'm holding down the button and move the camera it will focus on what's on the middle point then.
I'm asking about if you just press it, then move for framing.
>>2724663
If you hit the AF button and focus on the bird, and then let go of the button, you can do whatever you want, and the bird will stay in focus. Recompose, take a nap, build a cage for said bird, etc. The focus won't activate until you press the AF button again. That's one of the major benefits. You can point the center point at the bird, focus, let go, recompose, and then let go of the camera entirely, and wait for it to do something interesting. Then, when it does, you press the shutter button, and it fires. If you use shutter button focus, you have to keep the button pressed down for it to stay locked, otherwise when you go to take the photo, it will have to acquire focus again, and if you don't recompose to the bird for it, you get the mountains in focus.
>>2724666
Then you'll be fine. The camera will only focus if you're holding down the button.
Keep in mind that "focus and recompose" (as your technique is known) can throw off focus at close distances (like with portraiture or macro), but in your example you'll be fine.
>>2724667
>>2724668
That's amazing.
So that must mean the camera knows how much you've moved and keeps the bird in focus in relation to that right?
But Okay, let's say the bird is in flight, a previous post told me that you'd have to hold onto the button, but surely according to what you've told me, I wouldn't?
>>2724670
No, the focal plane is just a flat plane, so anything that is also that distance from the camera will be in focus too. When you're focusing on a bird 40 feet away, everything 40 feet away will be in focus. So if you turn the camera a bit, the bird is still 40 feet away, so it's still in focus. There's nothing complex going on.
>But Okay, let's say the bird is in flight, a previous post told me that you'd have to hold onto the button, but surely according to what you've told me, I wouldn't?
If the bird is changing distance from the camera, you have to keep the button pressed so that the camera continues to work to focus on it. The first bird only stays in focus because it is not moving closer or further from the camera.
>>2724670
Wait a second, I think I get it, the bird isn't known to the camera, neither is the camera movement, it's the distance in relation to everything else?
>>2724673
Okay, I've got it, thanks a lot. I know it can be annoying having to explain this lol
>>2724670
>So that must mean the camera knows how much you've moved and keeps the bird in focus in relation to that right?
What the fuck? No. The camera doesn't need to know anything, because the focus shouldn't be shifting all that much in the first place if you're just changing the angle of the camera. It would work the exact same on a manual focus camera from 1935.
>>2724679
Lol, I know how stupid it sounded but I clicked on literally a second later.
I forgot about the distance, jesus, I seem like a retard now, I'm literally new to this
>>2724680
It's okay buddy. Photography seems like it's really confusing at first, but the basic concepts are simple and easy to grasp as long as you don't overthink it (which is what you're doing).
And, again, read the manual. Seriously. SERIOUSLY. It will answer 99% of the questions you might have. I know it's long, but it will save you legitimately six months of your life of trying to figure everything out on your own.
>>2724678
It's not a problem. Everyone starts somewhere, despite what a lot of angry people on here seem to believe.
>>2724684
Another silly question, when shooting monochrome, is that desirable? Or is black and white film much better than a DSLR's monochrome?
Or is post much better? Like using photoshop etc by turning colour image bnw.
>>2724688
Tihs is a whole can of worms that you're opening here. Some people prefer the look and character of monochrome film over digital, some people prefer the versatility and flexibility of digital over film.
Personally, I don't think anyone can call themselves a photographer until they've paid their dues and shot and developed a roll of black and white on their own.
>>2724692
What's the difference? Is black and white film a lot more defined and natural whereas a dslr monochrome is more flowish and sharp looking/artifical?
>>2724688
On digital, if you want B&W, you start by shooting color, so you can adjust contrast by channel (Sort of like using color filters used to work on film)
In a lot of cases, B&W film can look a lot more smooth and buttery than digital, merely because, on digital, you only have 255 values for what tones can be in the image, whereas B&W film has a tremendous range. Also, the crunchy blacks and rolled off creamy highlights of film look very nice when they're B&W.
This being said, knowing how to process digital images to look B&W can give a lot of this tonality and quality to a digital image. But just clicking DESATURATE is going to leave you with a result that looks worse, most of the time.
It's really down to preference, and the skill of the artist. Digital has drawbacks, just like film, and if you can learn to work around them and manage them, both digital and film can look incredible.
>>2724698
Thanks, so the photographer sebastiao salgado, his images are all in bnw but I saw him using a dslr in documentaries I've watched, is it not strange that such a pro would use that method rather than shoot real bnw film?
Or is he so good that he can develop colour images into beautiful bnw ones?
Actually since writing this I realise how silly of a question it is but it interested me
>>2724702
>Thanks, so the photographer sebastiao salgado, his images are all in bnw but I saw him using a dslr in documentaries I've watched, is it not strange that such a pro would use that method rather than shoot real bnw film?
So, Sebastiao Salgado is actually known for using a Leica and monochrome film. Probably 95% of his work is film, and it was sort of a big deal that he used a Canon DSLR for Genesis. It ultimately just goes to show that it's the photographer that matters, not the medium.
>>2724667
Yep. Whether assigning focus to the shutter and use the back button to lock, or using rear button itself to focus just depends on what you find most useful and comfy.
>>2724704
Oh, thanks I see now. jesus those are expensive lol.
His bnw photos are very beautiful but I can't help thinking many would have looked better in colour
What the fuck is with the Flickr comments section?
all i ever see is "YOU WON THIS AWARD ON BLUE SKIES" with an MSpaint image of something in return
>>2724703
That is a good link, and none of the information is wrong, and yet there is a LOT more to getting a well toned black and white image than what is covered there. Look into some youtube videos, as there are a lot of people who go into a lot of detail about it.
>>2724698
Only in 8 bit images. This is why people shoot raw and not JPEG. Even if Photoshop only has 255 levels in its color picker on 16 bit images, true 16 bit records 65,000+ colors per color channel. Most cameras have a lower bit rate, but even compressed 12-bit like the Nikon D3200 records 4096 levels per channel. This is not an opinion or up for debate, just a description of facts about how a digital camera converts analog data (light) into digital data (a collection of zeros and ones that is used to represent a picture on screen).
>>2724884
>Only in 8 bit images
so basically every display ever.
to be fair he did miss the point that black and white actually DOESN'T have tremendous range, and instead is only binary. The grain is either activated or it isn't.
Ok so f/3.5 etc, shallow depth of field, great for portraits and to keep the subject in focus and to blur the background, lets in a lot of light to have a faster shutter speed when using a low iso
f/22 for depth of field, landscapes, keep everything in focus etc
BUT WHAT ABOUT ALL THE ONES IN BETWEEN LMAO
when do i use f/11???
this is so confusing lmao
>>2725260
Whenever f/11 looks best for the photo you want to take, or when it let's see in the right amount of light for the shutter speed and ISO combination that you have selected.
>>2725266
FOCUS DISTANCE, FOCAL LENGTH, APERTURE, ISO, SHUTTER SPEED, WHITE BALANCE, TYPES OF FOCUS, TYPES OF FOCUS POINTS, EXPOSURE COMEPNSATIN, RAW JPG, FRAMING, TIMING AHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHGIDVKHAERPHVR
JUST FUCK MY SHIT UP
>>2725267
It's okay you'll get used to it. Maybe it'll take you 6 months or 2 years, but eventually it'll happen.
Tip: if you have a bunch of free time, you can sign up for a 3-week trial with Lynda.com if you have a LinkedIn profile. Then you can watch all of Ben Long's videos, he's a fantastic teacher.
I believe I have posted this before, and I'm sure it's been mentioned many times, but some very useful books for starting out include:
Molly Bang - How Pictures Work
Bryan Peterson - Understanding Exposure 3rd ed.
Freeman Patterson - Photography and the Art of Seeing
If you just want a single book, Ben Long's Complete Photography is also fantastic.
Tip #2: try leaving everything on auto EXCEPT for the thing you want to learn about. If you start with finding good subjects and composition (everyone should but nobody does), then you can actually leave your mode dial on the green camera icon and blast away.
What formats do you guys save your edited pictures in?
I shoot in RAW, edit in photoshop and save the finished picture in .PNG so i can go back and edit it again without destroying the picture like you would have with .JPG
is this a good practice? I have the RAW file and .xmp file saved for the original file, but the finished image gets saved as .PNG
yes/no?
>>2725331
It's terrible practice. PNG isn't meant for photographs. It was designed as a replacement for GIF.
JPEG is more than good enough. I don't know where you're getting the idea that you would destroy the picture any more in jpeg than you would in png. Any edit is a destructive edit, no matter the format.
>>2725331
I can keep the raws and also the "recipe file" with all my tweaked settings, and any time I want to go back and tweak it I can.
>>2725306
OKAY THANKS A LOT, IM GONNA GO INTO PURE MOOD, READING ALL THE TIME, BUT MY MIND IS FUZZY, MY HEALTH HAS BEEN SHIT AND IVE BEEN DEPRESSED BUT THAT IS NO MATTER, I WILL DEDICATE MYSELF TO THIS, YOU WILL READ ABOUT MY PICS IN 10 YEARS
>>2725260
You NEVER want to use f/22 unless you're doing some crazy long exposures and don't have an ND filter or something.
>>2725374
WHAT?
what if I'm on a mountain and I want to capture a landscape?
Or does a small focal length already help that and I dont need the small aperture?
>>2725382
After about f/14, the lens and sensor will start to have diffraction, which ironically actually makes the image less sharp. Google: aperture diffraction ! :)
>>2725382
If you have a 24mm lens, you can be at f/5.6 and get the whole scene in focus.
>>2725400
>How do you calculate this?
http://lmgtfy.com/?q=depth+of+field+calculator
>>2725405
>http://lmgtfy.com/?q=depth+of+field+calculator
MFW, LEARN 10 NEW THINGS A DAY :)
Asking here now:
Using LR3, when I try to export a file I can only export it to my user file, desk top, same folder as original and the only other option is my dropbox folder - which was the last folder I was exporting to before this happened. I'm not able to choose an option for exporting it to say a different folder in my F drive.
Has anyone ever encountered this and how would I fix it? Google really hasn't been much help to me.(I know I should upgrade but it does what I need it to so I'm good for now)
Screenshot of my options:
>>2723848
No where in that file tree is an option for any of my other drives.
How do I find out if this stuff is expired or not? I have one fairly new 24 shots roll and 2 fuck-knows-how-old 36 shot rolls. Graphics on it are slightly different but can't I get the year of manufacture from the serial number or something?
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>>2725400
f/22 comes into play for light gathering purposes. If you need to be at a 1/30s shutter speed in bright light, and you're at ISO 100, you can stop all the way down to f/22 to try to kill the light further.
To determine what aperture gets you what depth of field for what lens, check this out:
http://www.dofmaster.com/dofjs.html
I fell for the meme and bought a Ricoh GR II.
Could you guys share your custom settings? My main use for it will be street photography and I'm really overwhelmed with all the possibilities. Thanks.
>>2725400
Say you're doing macro. You need a lot of light for that but also don't want your depth of field to be tiny. You slow down your shutter speed but there's still not enough light and you don't want your iso really high either because you're looking for crisp detail and minimal noise. So. You use a flash at max power and you close your aperture to f/18 or even further if you're willing to allow some diffraction in to the image in exchange for more dof.
Macro is just about the only use case i have for very small aperture settings. Maybe occasionally some long exposure situations also.
I'm thinking about selling my Fuji X-T1/24-70 2.8(eq) and buying a 5D2 and 35 1.4. Is this retarded?
>>2726143
Just shoot it at 100 and be done with it.
It wouldn't make a difference anyway.
>>2726173
I answered your inane question the last time you asked it, cuntflap.
>>2727466
Yeah thanks, it wasn't solely directed at you though.
why the fuck did i get banned from the irc?
wtf is this shit on my sensor? mold? im getting ready to sell this, should i spend the $60 to have it cleaned? or hope the next guy buys it and pawn it off on him like a chump?
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Noob here, got my first DLSR today. Can someone tell me a good noob tutorial? Thank you!
>>2728221
read the manual. then jewtube.
get your aperture (f-stop), shutter speed and ISO familiarized. then look into a thing called "composition".
do yourself and everyone around you a favor and completely forget HDR even exists
>>2728224
What is HDR?
Thank you, I'll do that!
>>2728037
That IS a stupid question. High points for (temporary) self awareness at least!
>>2728232
Well, at least I didn't make a thread just for that question ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
Do you have to have a membership to Costco to develop film there? I hear their prices are great for developing and the results aren't too bad.
>>2728580
Yeah.
>>2728617
Damn, oh well.
If anyone has any reccomendations for getting film developed on the cheaply cheap than let me know please.
Hey, what kind of lens/camera are capable of producing images clear enough to be magnified and framed for large picture frames(I'm talking up to 3 meter square)? I'm looking into buying a rokinon 35mm for my a5100. Any advice or suggestions?
>>2728633
Does it need to be sharp up close?
You can probably work with ~100 dpi, which gives you a ~45 megapixels image.
I'm considering you mean a 3 m2 frame, not a 3 m by 3 m frame, that would be impractical at 100 dpi.
Use sharp primes at their sharpest aperture, and go panorama if you need it.
Your a5100 will get you ~60 dpi at this size.
>>2728642
Thanks, made a mistake with explaining my intent previously. I'm going to have a giant image put together onto my wall around 2x3.5m large. The picture frame thing was just a reference to say how large the image is planned to be for each section. What I'm going for is a collection of sections that create a gigantic landscape.
Hey guys ,
How do you stitch two images with overlapping?
Like, I have two images to be stitched vertically and the middle portion is same in both so it has to be overlapped.
Can you recommend some software?
Example, pics in reply
>>2728648
Pic 1
>>2728648
Pic 2
>>2728648
Wait, you're trying to stitch screenshots of a browser page? There's a Chrome extension called Blipshot that will do that for you.
>>2728653
GODDAMN!
Should have asked before taking 50 screenshots.
Thanks anon
>>2728655
Thanks anon
I'm having a problem when I shoot a high DOF picture on high aperture.
I don't understand on what part of the picture I should focus when I want to get a deep field of view. When I focus the flowers the skies is out of focus and when I focus the skies the flower are out of focus.
I want to manage to take a picture like pic related (for example)
I really love the look of contact sheets i was wondering how id go about getting some if i shoot film? Is it an option i just ask for? Can you get digital contact sheets made?
www.youtube.com/watch?v=HT6ll4ub6io
So I'm interested in how this guy edited this to give that atmosphere. Like the slight haze and lack of color feel. How would I replicate that in editing software like lightroom? I've been messing around a bit and have gotten close but I can't get that exact feel.
>>2728710
>high DOF
means everything is in focus
>high aperture
what do you even mean by this. Aperture isn't high or low, it's either open or closed. You mean high like high number, or high like very bright?
>I don't understand on what part of the picture I should focus when I want to get a deep field of view.
Everywhere. Close down the aperture, get distance from your subject and/or a wide angle lens.
Focus is a sphere. Pick a point in the middle of the field, with a stopped down aperture (i.e. f/8, f/11, stuff like that) everything will be in focus especially if you're using anything even slightly wider angle.
How do I find models whilst travelling? I would preferably not use Model Mayhem.
>>2728710
This is my first time coming on /p/ and I'm so fucking angry at you for not colour correcting.
>>2728781
Tinder.
>>2728785
crushed blacks are not cool either.
as a neet, my hands are pretty shaky. is there any method to reducing this?
>>2728834
if you don't have any tripod, and playing with relatively low shuter speeds, get as many point of contact as you can.
stick the viewfinder to your eye, hold the lens with your other hand, this should make it more stable
I'm on continuous autofocus, 1/1000th shutter speed but my photos of my friends dog running towards me are always fuzzy. Lens is a 70-300 Tamron on a Pentax K-3. I know I have a short amount of time before the dog gets too close, but I was hoping to get more in focus shots. What am I doing wrong?
>>2729676
Looks like you missed focus. Are you using continuous autofocus?
>>2729678
>Are you using continuous autofocus?
Did you read the first four words of his post?
>>2729676
How many focus points are you using? I'm not familiar with the K-3, but usually there's full auto mode with all the points active, then a zone of focus points, and then a single point to choose from. With photos like this, a zone is usually best, using as phase detect points.
Chances are good that your trouble is just that you're using a very cheap, very low quality lens from a third party manufacturer that had to reverse engineer the AF system and didn't nail it down. Tracking AF is pretty demanding on a system, and it's very rare to find a third party lens that does the job anywhere near as well as first party lenses.
In your case, the focus point is behind the dog, so you could be dealing with a shutter delay issue, but who knows. More likely just that the lens isn't capable of this level of performance. There's a reason that the equipment you see on the sidelines of sporting events carries the price tag that it does.
>>2729682
>Did you read the first four words of his post?
lol, i guess i didn't.
>>2725578
anybody?
Are there any places in Madison/Milwaukee that sell b&w film in the store itself?
>>2729693
get a new version and re-install
Do Nikon Lenses focus past infinity? On my Canon there is a mark for infinity and you can focus slightly past it.
There is no such mark on either my 50mm prime or 18-35mm zoom Nikkor lenses. I take that means they focus at infinity at the most.
Question two: for star trail photography do I just focus at infinity or try to focus on a bright star?
use live view zoomed in ,and increase the exposure for the focusing til the stars are as small and focused as possible, then don't touch the focus ring and take the shot.
>>2729711
>just focus at infinity
You can't focus at infinity, universe is constantly expanding
>>2729711
Not all lenses have a hard infinity stop, especially cheaper zooms. This is problematic for astrophotography, and you'll need to focus on something at infinity during the day and leave it until night.
Going to be shooting an event tomorrow. This will be my first event. What mode do you recommend I shoot in?
Pic related is what I dont want to shoot in.
I was thinking of shooting in aperture priority so I can capture motion or freeze the action as I see fit.
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Ok, so I'd like to get a Zhongyi Lens Turbo II to mount m42 lenses to my mft camera, but they don't make an m42 to mft. So am I able to just get a m42 to nikon adapter and a nikon to mft Lens Turbo and attach them all together?
>>2729778
It'll look ridiculous, but it'll work.
Or you could just get real lenses that work correctly and most likely out perform anything you're going to adapt.
>>2729779
cool thanks.
Yeah, I'll probably invest in some better native lenses later on. I really like the look of these old lenses.
>>2729783
You won't get much of it out of an M4/3 sensor, it'll just be soft, and mushy, but hopefully you enjoy them.
Uhm I just noticed I can set custom color profiles on my rabal and there's a sharpening option
is there any reason why I shouldn't just put it on the maximum value? Is it a video guy thing where they dont want their video to be too sharp to seem more realistic or something?
Or is it something you should do with the RAW in lightroom instead of just doing it in-body
>>2729789
If you're shooting RAW, your in camera settings don't matter. In JPEG, it's very possible to get a "too sharp" image where things just look very crunchy and gross, rather than detailed and clean.
>>2729758
Umm
I think you've confused aperture priority with shutter priority. I suggest you don't shoot the event until you understand how things work because that's not how they work, that's not how any of this works.
>>2729682
>More likely just that the lens isn't capable of this level of performance. There's a reason that the equipment you see on the sidelines of sporting events carries the price tag that it does.
Ya. I really wanted the Pentax 150 - 450mm but the $1 800USD price tag is out of my budget for the next long time.
I think the issue I had was the auto focus zones. I had it on spot. I'll try again with a more wider zone range. Reading the manual, I have
- 1st Frame Action in AF.C ~ Release-priority (default setting) Auto, Focus-priority
- Action in AF.C Continous ~ Focus-priority (default setting), Auto, FPS- priority
I think the second option would be best suited? I think that leads me to : I noticed that when I pressed and held the shutter button (spray & pray?) that it wouldn't refocus. I had it at the highest continuous mode, this probably didn't give it enough time to refocus. I guess I should not hold the shutter for next time.
I reached out to this ad on craigslist for two AE-1 Canon bodies and a Minolta SRT sc ii body along with three promaster lenses.
The person got hold of this gear from their grandparents so they aren't very helpful at giving me info on the lenses as well as the status of the cameras. But given the possibility of the equipment having no issues, I offered the guy $150 USD for it and they accepted. Do you think it's worth it, /p/? I'm meeting them tomorrow to check it out.
>>2729849
Use this:
http://www.pentaxforums.com/articles/photo-articles/catch-in-focus-tutorial.html
>>2729909
Thank you very much.
>>2729779
>but it'll work
No it won't. The flange focal distance of the Nikon mount is incompatible with that of the m42 mount. He won't be able to come anywhere close to infinity. He's better off using a Canon to mft lens turbo and then a m42 to Canon adapter, since that combo retains infinity focus. It also won't look anymore ridiculous than a normal lens turbo with a lens mounted onto it, since the m42 adaper is no more than 2mm thick and won't be noticeable at. >>2729783 Don't listen to what >>2729779 has to say, almost all of it was incorrect. Buy a Canon to mft lens turbo and then a m42 to Canon adapter and you should be good to go.
>>2729891
Probably not, AE-1s aren't worth more than 30 bucks each and the lenses are probably shit since vintage third party lenses tend to have low iq. The minolta is also worth around 30 bucks, so you're overpaying by a lot. I wouldn't give that guy more than 90 bucks.
As this is a stupid question thread.
What software should I use to edit RAW .NEF, my Crack of photoshop CS6 can't deal. And I was to move towards legal stuff so I can sell my works one day.
>>2730536
Nikon's proprietary software is free and legit.
>>2730536
Try a different crack... there's no reason CS6 shouldn't be able to handle nikon files... update your ACR
Is there a difference between "grading" as said by video people and color correction as done by still photographers? Other than the obvious of editing videos vs stills.
Is there any advantages of the Canon 24mm pancake f/2.8 over the 18-55 kit lens other than the maximum aperture?
How the hell can i get the perspective on this photo right?
I know its nothing amazing, but now I am determined. Was hoping to use just lightrooms perspective correction
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>>2731316
I like photoshop's perspective crop tool, you just place the 4 corners along the straights in your pic and it will get cropped and stretched into a rectangle.
>>2731336
I think my perspective was off in the first place but I'll look into it.
The line on the bottom and the top don't exactly line up but I think your suggestion will work for that. Sounds cool
>>2731336
Shit I don't have CS6. thanks anyway
>>2731342
hm I think you can achieve the same in earlier photoshops by dragging the corners of a crop rectangle with ctrl/alt or some combination of these
>>2731344
You're right. I think I may just give up for the time being, its actually quite tough
Will minilab film processors have a problem with reloaded film canisters where the bulk film was spliced to the end?
>>2730521
Thanks, very helpful. I'll go with the canon one then
>>2731587
Any lab tech worth their money will have no problem with it. Just let them know beforehand so they no what to expect
Would it be possible to make a double exposure by printing two photos on top of each other on the same photo paper? Say I print the first photo ( a portrait for example) and then a texture photo on top of that?
>>2730925
the prime is a lot sharper and a lot smaller.
Negative film has way more dynamic range than slide film (slide film doesn't compress it). If you cross-process slide film in C41 does it compress the dynamic range to something more like a C41 negative?
I make virtual copies of photos and then edit them. Sometimes Lightroom will remove them, so I lose my edited copy. What's causing this, how can I prevent it and is there a way to get them back?
How many of you use filters? Are they worth buying?
>>2732858
ND filters are great, very very useful, and polarizers can be useful and neat, and UV filters protect your front element.
>>2732844
Thanks.
I have only one catalog for the camera. I have back ups. I've never tried restoring from a back up. Will it overwrite edits I've made since? I don't back up every time I close.
>>2732858
I have ND filters, polarizers and UV filters. ND filters because you can do long exposures during the day, something that I don't think you can Photoshop/edit to the same effect. Polarizers because I find them much better for bringing out the blue in the sky. Depending, post editing can make the blues look fake and you can get an outline around trees/buildings/etc. Polarizers also let you see into water, something you're not able to change in editing. UV filters always because it protects the front of the lens from damage.
Hey this is a good thread for me. So is instant film cameras even worth it? The idea appeals to me and I hate developing film it sucks. And I'm talking vintage cameras no fujifilm ish,so the film will be expensive
>>2733008
Uhhhh. I've got some bad news for you.
>>2733013
Yes I know they went out of production , but I'm talking about getting something from the impossible project
Can someone explain f stop, aperture, shutter speed, and Iso to me like I'm 5?
>>2731701
success, thank you
>>2733017
Honestly the Instax stuff is bretty gud. The shots my girlfriend has shot using her Instax (the best mini model) look way better than the shots from her old Polaroid on Impossible film. You can get 20 shots of Instax for less money than 8 shots of Impossible, and even cheaper if you buy bulk.
Though you could probably get a MF camera with instant back and shoot FP100C for about the same money, if you're patient and look around.
>>2733075
Your camera manual can. Have you tried there?
I'll explain using my favorite Faucet metaphor. When you're exposing a photo, you're trying to collect the correct amount of light. It can be thought of like filling a bucket with water from a faucet
Aperture is the hole in the lens that lets the light in. It opens and closes, to let it more light, or less light. How open or closed it is is measured in f/stops. The aperture is like how high you turn the faucet, a trickle (small aperture) or a torrent of water (wide open aperture)
f/stops are needlessly complex to really understand but: The f/ number is a ratio of width of the opening, to the total focal length of the lens. So, if you have a 50mm lens, and the aperture is open 25mm wide, your aperture is f/2 (25mm goes into 50mm 2 times).
Because it's a ratio, f/2 is a LARGER opening than f/11 (because 1/2 is larger than 1/11th)
Shutter speed is how long the shutter stays open to let light in to the sensor or film. A longer shutter speed lets in more light. This relates to how long you have to hold the bucket under the water to fill it up.
ISO is how sensitive your film/sensor is to light. At a low ISO (ISO 50, or 100) the film/sensor is not very sensitive, so it needs a lot of light to expose it. (this is like having a very large bucket that takes a lot of water to fill). At higher ISOs, the film/sensor is a lot more sensitive to light, so you need a lot less of it to get a correctly exposed photo (like having a smaller bucket that needs less water). At higher ISOs, your sensor is less accurate though, so the image looks a lot more "grainy" and noisy, and you lose tonality and range.
>>2733177
cont.
So when you're filling a bucket, You can decide to turn the faucet on a little bit, and leave the bucket under the faucet for a long time, or you can turn the faucet on a LOT, and leave the bucket under for a short time, or if your water pressure is bad, you can turn the faucet on a little bit, and leave the bucket under for a short amount of time, and use a very small bucket.
got a 50mm 1.8 for christmas
what do now?
>>2733183
See if you can find a photographer to sell it to.
>>2733169
Plus Impossible Project barely qualifies as instant.
30.
Fucking.
Minutes.
WHAT THE FUCK I AM SO PISSED RIGHT NOW
Newfag to /p/. Bought a camera (nikon 1 j1), stabilizer, sd card, and tripod from eBay.
The stabilizer is shit. Always swinging left and right horizontally.
The SD card has a shitty write speed, there's random pauses in the video.
And I don't even know what the fuck is wrong with any of what I'm doing, everything is just garbage.
Where did I go wrong?
How do tou fix light seals and where can you get the foam for it? My OM-1's bottom light seal ripped out and it's been sitting on a shelf for a couple months now because of that (and an ongoing affair with point & shoots). I just got a roll of Precisa back from this summer that I shot with it and holy crap, I gotta fix it.
>>2733263
what made you pick the camera? did you do your research beforehand?
I need a clarification of what "pushing" film really is.
Let's say I have ISO 200 film, but I want to "push" it to 400. Do I just put the ISO dial to 400 and after finishing the roll just tell the lab to process the film as if it was ISO 400?
Also, how horrible will the results be if I'm using cheapo Kodak Colorplus film that cost me 3€ for a 36 exp. roll?
>>2733355
The lab normally processes color film of any ISO the same, so rather than telling them to process it as the specific higher ISO, tell them to push it by X stops (1 in this case)
>>2733355
>pushed colorplus
itll look supershit. try it anyways.
and yeah, pushing is that.
>>2733355
"pushing" 200 film to 400 is:
Under exposing your film by one stop, then making up for it by over-developing the film by one stop. This increases the contrast and graininess of the film, and how well the film handles the push depends on the film. Some film like TriX handles it fantastically well. Other film does not.
Colorplus won't be very happy with it.
>>2733169
Ahh OK, valuable information. I've shot on the instax its pretty nice, another stupid question what is MP?
Some oil spilled on a roll of film in my refrigerator and osmotically seeped into the can. It managed to soak the entire roll. Does anyone know a substance I can use to clean the oil off of the film without damaging the emulsion?
>>2734203
>osmotically
the fuck.
also, ditch the roll OP.
http://www.eatliver.com/dogs-catching-treats/
What sort of gear and camera settings would you need to do this? 1/1000th? f/8.0?
>>2734424
Strobes and/or speedlights. Shutter speed is irrelevant, f/8 is probably a good ballpark.
>>2734425
Why would shutter speed be irrelevant? Don't you want a quick speed to avoid blurring?
Would I be able to get away with this with no secondary lighting?
>>2734429
The flash is freezing the action, not the shutter speed.
You could do it with just fast shutter speed if you were somewhere with a lot of light, like outside.
how can i make this effect?
>>2734429
The flash is nearly instant. It's like 1/40,000th of a second, So if the only light in the scene is that flash, you could leave the shutter open for 10 minutes, and the motion would still be "frozen" because the exposure really only took place for that 1/40,000th of a second.
>>2734484
hard light from camera left. Convert to B&W in PS. Lots of contrast. Solid red layer, using the image itself as a mask
>>2734488
thanks
>>2734424
A strong good flash, timing, and placement, and yeah, probably shot around f5.6 or smaller
Got a toy camera for Christmas, anyone here able to read Japanese?
I'm assuming it means it is fixed at f9 with a 1/100 shutter speed but I'm not sure what the ISO 400 thing is about.
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>>2734517
Flash distance 3 meters /9 yards when shot at ISO400, I suppose.
Can you help me /p/?
>>>/g/52197489
I got them from my vacation in Greece (warm country). An old man wanted to throw them away, but I showed him with hand signs that I would like to get them. Couldn't speak his language, so I don't know how they were stored. I've got 30 rolls, so it would be cool if I could sell or use them.
>>2734486
>So if the only light in the scene is that flash, you could leave the shutter open for 10 minutes, and the motion would still be "frozen" because the exposure really only took place for that 1/40,000th of a second.
AH!!! Now it makes sense. Thank you.
Would you set the scene up with low lighting and then use a flash? The dog would need to be able to see there's a treat coming.
>>2734588
You can shoot them, but don't expect anything great. Also you'll have to shoot it at like ISO 25 because it's expired and not stored correctly.
I guess you could also sell them for like 50 cents a roll or something, but they're not going to be worth much. I think Polaroid had some special chemistry films years ago, but I'm thinking those are just regular C-41?
>>2735179
The room could be fairly bright. ISO 100, aperture of f/11, shutter speed of 1/250, will leave you very under exposed in normal indoor lighting. Could also be using modeling lights, which turn off for the exposure itself.
What should I do if I'm doing street photography where I move around a lot into different areas with different lighting conditions shooting time sensitive subjects that doesn't really allow me the time to mess around with my settings? Should I just shoot in programs mode? Shoot in raw and edit everything in post? Are more experienced photographers really able to think on their feet and set the white balance correctly even in time sensitive situations?
>>2737335
Crank up ISO and set shutter priority at a speed that will get your desired results.
>>2737335
You should shoot in raw and edit in post.
Also, I think your imagination of what street photography is like is pretty far from reality is. It's not an action-packed frenzy, it's patience, waiting and timing. You'll get more keepers out of one hour spent on a street corner than you will out of a whole afternoon wandering around like Scarlett Johansson in Lost in Translation.
What's the difference between super 35mm mode and full frame mode?
Alright I'm out of the loop. How the fuck does Instagram work? Can you only upload pictures from your mobile phone?
Is there a way that I create an effect that makes photos looks similar to that produced from a disposable camera? Without editing if possible that is.
>>2737492
>Is there a way that I create an effect that makes photos looks similar to that produced from a disposable camera? Without editing if possible that is.
Shoot photos on a disposable camera.
>>2737429
>Alright I'm out of the loop. How the fuck does Instagram work? Can you only upload pictures from your mobile phone?
Yes. Though many people take photos with their camera, and load them to their phone, and then upload them.
>>2737385
>What's the difference between super 35mm mode and full frame mode?
In what context? Likely that Super35mm is a crop mode very similar to APS-C
Ok this is going to sound really stupid.
Could someone tell me a good video/movie editing software I can buy that has...filters like instagram has and such? Is that stupid?
The closest I've ever used is Windows movie maker and I'm looking to buy something that has filters and something easy for a person like me to use, someone like me who isn't officially educated in video photography.
>>2737385
Super 35 is a standard from the motion picture industry.
It uses 35mm film VERTICALLY, so the WIDTH is limited to the distance between the holes (24.9mm).
The height is 18.66mm, corresponding to four holes.
Full frame is a photography standard.
It uses 35mm film VERTICALLY, so the HEIGHT is limited the distance between the holes (24mm).
The width is 36mm (an arbitrary number, they just liked the 3:2 aspect ratio I guess).
So full frame is almost double the surface area.
But when you're filming with a full-frame sensor the camera will only use part of the sensor, to give you a 16:9 aspect ratio and to nicely alight the pixels.
It will almost certainly still be bigger though.
Would it be fun to start a photography youtube channel or will it get repetative. Is reviewing random gear the only way to keep it going?
>>2738482
Hardly. Talking about actually shooting and your experiences going out make the best channels for other photographers to watch.
>>2723069
Hi, yes I'm learning to do editing using photoshop, but I don't have access to decent quality photos. Anyone know any good sites with diverse photos? I took quite a few from /p/ but the quality on the ones I'd like to practice editing with is simply too poor.
>>2738482
Honestly you can't be any worse than what is already out there. You can review gear even if it's old. You can give long term use reports like in Motor Week. You can even review used equipment and film gear. Not everyone is out to buy a new 3,000$ DSLR.
If you really want to stand out you can start by being a photographer. The majority of youtube photography channels are not run by photographers but people trying to promote their workshops. Being an enthusiast is fine too: It's actually equivalent as someone who has a workshop.
I think it would be a lot of fun but also a lot of work if you have any interest in doing a good job. There is so much you can do. You should totally try it even if it fails (it most likely will).
>>2738482
Reviews are the worst thing to do for photography videos. It may be a dependable way to get views, but god they are boring.
Videos from photoshoots -- how and why the photographer handles the shoot the way he does -- are great. (Digital Rev's pro photographer/cheap camera challenge is a gimmicky version of this.)
How-to's can be good, and there are lots of ways you could make ones that aren't just the standards -- how to scout locations for photoshoots, how to get good poses for portraits, etc. You could get a fairly long series out of lighting how-to's. Shit, a how-to on lighting for perfect cat photos would get a lot of views.
>>2737863
>Shoot photos on a disposable camera.
Problem is the cost of processing, the cameras, and then having to have it scanned to save it onto a harddrive. Any way to mimic it with current cameras purely with equipment?
Would filming a documentary style video (think "the office") be possible with pic related? Would I need a new camera or could I just buy gear for this one?
>>2739427
No. What do you have against post processing?
>>2739442
Nothing, a little time consuming but really just wanted to know if theres a way to do it with a lower quality lens or physical filter in combination with the camera setting.
>>2739435
It has horrific rolling shutter, so you will at least need balanced shoulder rig and IS lens if you want run-and-gun shooting manner.
>>2739427
No. Not even close. Pretty much every advancement that's been made in digital cameras has been to get as far away from results like that as possible, which is why everyone at the time hated the look, and why you, now, are finding it romantic.
>>2739651
I just listed my personal reasons, I don't find it romantic, just another mean to relay the mood/emotion of the moment. Additional options only add to creativity.
>>2724688
When you want a digital bw image, do never ever tick such a setting in your camera. Just make a colored one and postprocess. This is actually what your camera most likely will do, when you tick such a setting, except that you can't adjust it.
Read some tutorials or something, how bw is made non digital, especially the effect of colored filters. (Yes, colored filter are very important for bw photos). You don't have to practise it non digital, but I gives you much more sense of it, when pping digital. Most times pp'd bw photos look unreal colored, before applying the desaturation, as a different color changes the appearance of the bw photo. Just experiment using first a common desaturation filter, and then changing the colors of the photo below.
>>2725334
This is totally true.
PNG compression is nearly non existent on photos, as it mostly compresses homogen colored fieldls, which are nearly non existent in photos.
Keep the raw for editing, and publish the JPEG at a good quality.
why the fuck does this happen often? not like all the time, but id say around 1 out of every 300 shots ill get one of these.
older t1i/500d on Lr 5.6 OSX 10.11.2
>>2740090
Seems like a (de-)compression error. Does this also happen with raw photos?
Getting my first camera (X-T10) soon so I need to get something for editing I guess. I'm on Mac and already have Pixelmator, but I'm realizing it's pretty clumsy for photos. Lightroom looks super nice but apparently it's still shit with Fuji raws. What do?
>>2740522
Use exiftool to convert it to a better supported format. (Like tiff).
Or look at rawtherapee. I'm not sure if it supports this format.
>>2740522
I shoot Fuji.
I process RAWs with Iridient Developer, doing my sharpening, noise reduction, and minor exposure tweaks there, then I export as TIFF and import to Lightroom for color correction, then color grading, and then final cropping/effects/etc
Does anyone have a diagram like this comparing the focal length of a lens and the distance you have to be from the subject to frame the exact same shot? Preferably with everything drawn to scale like on this picture.
How hard is it to learning toning for cmyk printing? Have a lead on a job and that's one of the requirements.
For B/W photos, should I set my camera to shoot in B/W, or shoot in color and change it in lightroom?
hen shooting RAW, is it better to have a pic underexposed or overexposed? Assuming the blacks and whites were equally clipped in both comparisons.
>>2742679
There's way more leeway in shadows than there is in highlights.
>>2740980
no, that would be stupid (because purely diagrammatic or assumes sensor size)...
oh wait...
Hey guys I have a question so I just recently got a new phone and I was checking out the settings, one of them is choosing how many megapixels it uses (I'm assuming for a smaller filesize)
How come it looks just as sharp at 10 megapixels than it does at 1 megapixel?
I thought the more megapixels the sharper and better the image?
>>2743785
megapixels is just the size of the image. When both files are viewed as the small size on your phone, it's no difference. But try zooming in to view both the pictures. One will be a lot smaller.
>>2743788
So it has nothing to do with the quality of the image?
>>2743795
It does, but this is more a problem with the quality of your display than a problem with the image.
Ah shit are /p/ book submissions still allowed? If so does anybody know the email address to send them too?
>>2743795
If you're talking about huge differences in resolution, like 8mp vs 36mp, you can get a bit better gradient and detail in the end result due to down-sampling, but it's not dramatic, and it won't have any affect on whether your photo is good or not. And the difference between 21mp and 24mp is essentially non-existent. Even 24 to 36 is pretty *shrug*
Much more important than the number of pixels is the QUALITY of the pixels, and the size of the pixels.
>>2744439
>>2725932
>>2744448
>is the QUALITY of the pixels, and the size of the pixels
Wait how do I look this up?
>>2744465
Usually, the manufacturer will publish that detail (see: Apple bragging about their big pixels in the iphone 6) but the rest of the time it's just deductive reasoning. If two sensors are identical in dimensions (say, 3mm x 4mm), the one with more megapixels will have smaller pixels. .
This is counterintuitive to the whole more megapixels = higher quality, I know. Just understand that bigger pixels capture more photons in low light, smaller pixels render more detail. It's a tradeoff on either end, and the whole issue is complicated enough without getting into new technologies like backside illumination.
>>2744478
Okay thanks for the explanation Anon.
Last question: My phone as a photo setting called HDR, should I be using that all the time? From what I understand it takes 3 different photos at different exposures to capture detail better. I don't see any cons in not using it but you guys are the experts, what do you think?
>>2744486
It can lead to some blur in photos with action or low light.
Generally, you won't need it, but it's not bad to use in contrasty scenes.
>>2744486
if your hands shake the photo it at all will turn out shit.
Not something you leave on, something you use for landscapes and shadowy areas
What's a good aperture size for just a regular, everyday shot (like maybe street photography or something)
I know I try to make the aperture really wide like 1.8 if I want to really focus onto a subject and have a nice blur effect, or make it small at like 14 or something if I'm shooting a landscape to bring everything into focus, but what's a nice middle of the ground aperture? Just anything that looks good? I've only just started messing around with my DSLR and I've mostly been shooting in Av.
>>2745031
There is no "right" aperture, just like there is no "right" wrench size. It changes from photo to photo. You select the correct aperture to get the right amount of things in your scene in focus, or to get the correct amount of light (if you need to)
(If you really want someone to focus on one subject, it's better to use light, color, texture, or space to focus your viewer, than just blurring away the background)
>>2745047
ok thank you friend I will continue to experiment
>>2730536
http://blogs.adobe.com/crawlspace/2011/03/keeping-photoshop-up-to-date.html#CameraRawCS6
download and install the latest Camera Raw 9.1.1 for Photoshop CS6, that'll do it
Ok so I was looking at these Dog Schidt lenses and basically what these guys do is they take a helios 44M lens and add vintage character to them by tinting the glass inside the lens, changing the shape of the aperture and even adding small cleaning scratches to the glass.
I was thinking about messing around with one of my old lenses wondering if anyone has purposely done things like this to add a bit of uniqueness and character to a lens?
Also, when adding the cleaning marks, how much is too much? Ideally, these marks should only be noticeable when light flares across the image, so I’m guessing I shouldn’t use sandpaper?
A friend of mine is going to get married today and she asked me to shoot her wedding.
I remember that long time ago, some /p/hag stated that a wedding is like playing pokemon snap, and he provided a list of goal shots, but I cannot find it.
Do you have that list by any chance?
If not, then what are some obligatory wedding photographs?
>pic related, I'm this level of stupid.
[EXIF data available. Click here to show/hide.]
Camera-Specific Properties: Camera Software Exif Software Version 1.0.2.0 Camera Model GT-I9300 Equipment Make SAMSUNG Maximum Lens Aperture f/2.6 Image-Specific Properties: Image Orientation Top, Left-Hand Image Width 3264 Image Created 2016:01:16 07:19:10 Image Height 2448 Unique Image ID BHFJ02 Exposure Time 1/77 sec ISO Speed Rating 50 F-Number f/2.6 Exposure Program Aperture Priority Lens Aperture f/2.6 Brightness 4.9 EV Color Space Information sRGB Metering Mode Center Weighted Average Exposure Bias 0 EV Image Height 2448 Image Width 3264 Focal Length 3.70 mm Flash Flash
>>2745651
Here ya go Anon
>>2745715
Thanks mang
>>2728785
This looks exactly like crisis 1
>>2728040
How did you edit this photograph?
