If you have questions about a new camera, what lenses to buy and anything related to gear or wondering about getting into photography, post it in this thread.
Do not attempt to make a new thread for your new Rabal, broken glass and being new.
No pointless (brand) arguments and dickwaving allowed! You have been warned!
I repeat, ANYTHING GEAR RELATED goes in here!
And don't forget, be polite!
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Who is the best camera manufacturer and why are they Fuji?
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I live in Eureope and here, hardwarestores dont carry inch-threadded screws etc.
What's a good place to get such stuff? Including 3/8-1/4 adapters. I think the HIFI and camera-stores are ripping me off.
So im sort of a poor fag and looking
to buy my first camera. I went to my local pawn shop and have the opportunity of buying a:
Canon eos t3
And a Pentax kr
Thoughts? They all come with a lens but I'm not savvy enough to differentiate them.
I've got the VR I, it's not revolutionary or anything but it's pretty hard to complain about the results for the price. The VR's not bad and it helps a lot to get an extra stop or two to get maximum sharpness out of the lens.
Aquired a Nikon F55 through the usual (I'm fucking this thing out, you taking it saves me the 5 euro recycling fee) method for an old film camera.
Has anyone ever used one of these? It feels fairly entry-level - but it also has a lot more features than what I'm using atm. It feels fairly light in my hand and I amn't sure how robust it'll be.
It's bloody annoying that I can't rewind the film without putting power into it, but there is film in there.
Worth keeping, or worth looking for something else?
Film amuses me in weird ways. Mostly the reaction of other people to it.
Pic unrelated. I have an old Hi-Matic that does interesting things with film when I take it to events for shits and giggles.
It sometimes even gives good pictures.
I have a Ricoh GR in the mail coming to me very soon.
Any tips on settings or things to look out for that anyone can share with me? I'm excited to have a camera that I'll basically always have on me in my pocket.
Okay just got my Canon EF 17-40mm f/4L USM but someone just offered his Sigma 12-24mm f/4.5-5.6 DG II HSM for the same price $340, just now.
Should I get it as well or I shouldn't bother?
I'll be using it with my Canon EOS 6D and Speedlite 430EX II for nightclub photography...
Okay so I'm buying a D700 body tomorrow, and need a little advice on primes.
I really want to get a 35mm prime as I've always wanted one, and 35mm seems to be a perfect focal length for my style of shooting.
But the Nikkor 35 1.8G FX is a bit for out of my budget, would a used Sigma Art 35 1.4 be a good alternative?
D5100 easy pick, great camera, tilt screen is really nice to have, that's the one thing I miss. However, it doesn't have an AF motor, so you can't AF with older lenses (eg. D series), only with G series. Also, make sure the sensor is clean and the screen works.
nah don't bother, 17 is already ultra wide on full frame, more than enough to stand close to people, get the focus and get a decent zoom range.
what do you usually shoot?
I use 5d2, canon version of D700 but shittier in low light and a little more resolution. I shoot landscapes and getting a little into portraiture and whatnot, so if I had to pick three primes, I'd go for 100, 40, and 16. If I had to pick two, then 40 and 16. I'll suggest a couple others depending on what you shoot.
what cameras compete with the k50 and are still somewhat rugged
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what's the problem with nightclub photography? You must be totally careful with drunkards near your gear, but it's give a nice amount of cash.
It's my prime work
Fuck I just went for it just then. $340 plus shipping. Waiting for seller to reply but hopefully I'll get it before the weekend so I can compare the two lenses. Sell off the loser of the two of course.
It's easy money mayne. $200 for two hours of shooting, which also includes a $50 drink voucher and drunk women to hook up with every week.
Only real downside is that my camera gear can be doused in rogue vodka lemon limes. Have to buy a cleaning kit every month.
It's part of my job. Keep them happy and they keep cumming back and pay exorbitant amounts for cheap drinks. It's all about margins.
I feel so dirty with myself sometimes though. Like I'm a man whore or something...
About to pull the trigger on a q666c tripod. Am i making a Mistake? are there good alternatives?
its only 95 bucks on amazon which in my eyxes is a steal for a carbon fiber tripod
Then... don't do it bro...
I fully get why you make them shekels doing club stuff, and fuck people for judging you - but I'd stay well away from club sluts.
I'd have a gf at home, and with that in mind I'd go to clubs like a war journalist and get in and out.
Just bought a Mamiya rb67. It came with a 220 back, and I was looking to grab a 120 back as well but most of the options on ebay are from Japan and quite pricey. Anyone know where I could grab one for under 50usd?
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So I ordered a new lens off e-bay.
Seemed in good condition
A week later it show fungus on the lens. It wasn't stored in a very humid area or anything either.
Did the seller screw me? Or am I just unlucky?
Pic related. Now that I look at the listing on e-bay it might be visible in one shot, but description says it is clean and fungus sfree.
So should I just request refund? Or contact seller or what?
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Naw, I usually only shoot at f/5.6 or f/8 for maximum sharpness and critical focus. I meant having such a wider FoV without a shit ton of distortion.
I only resort to bokehwhoring if it's "tasteful".
Top tip mate, don't buy cheap chinese tripods from unheard of brands, they are pieces of shit. Stick to well known brands and you'll save alot of money and wasted time.
What do you need out of the tripod? Do you travel alot and need something light and compact? Do you do studio work? How tall are you?
Tripods aren't something to cheap out on, you typically want to spend as much as you comfortably can. Give us your maximum budget and I'll see what I can find.
I just did, thanks. It says I am outside the sellers return windows, but since it isn't as described hopefully it still goes through. I don't know how I missed this when it arrived. I guess because it almost looks like a fingerprint unless you look really closely.
It is a shame really, the lens is in almost perfect condition otherwise. Kinda pissed too, tomorrow was my first chance to use it.
Stop using it and separate it from the rest of your kit. It literally could infect your other gear, keep it in a sealed zip-lock bag with one of those silicate packets to control the growth,
I have ketp all my lenses in a dry box. It was with the other but not for longer then a few days.
I'll keep it seperate from now, but I am hoping the low humidity of the dry box helped.
>Nikkor 35 1.8G FX is a bit for out of my budget, would a used Sigma Art 35 1.4 be a good alternative?
Isn't the Sigma more expensive, even used?
In any case the Sigma should be your #1 choice, it's way better than any 35mm from Nikon.
D7100 or D7200: $600 vs $1200 CAD
The price difference is enough that I could buy a 80-200/2.8D. Or an 80-200/2.8D and 60/2.8D if comparing to the D7200's new after tax price of $1500.
Glass is better than bodies, but I'm always going to wonder, will I miss the slightly improved AF, software improvements, NFC, and most importantly, buffer depth? I shoot motorsports, so the buffer depth can be important (but not as much as other sports). For $600, maybe I should just deal with shooting my long bursts in JPG or 1.3x 12-bit compressed with a fast card (reportedly capable of managing ~5FPS in this mode)?
What would you do?
Inb4 banding. Banding shows up after 4EV push, and only from the shadows. I dont really have the need for a 4EV push in most situations.
I know I'm going to probably get trolled for this but whatever.
If you would rather have glass, get a D7000 and blow the rest on glass. They are super cheap now, and I had looked at the D7100 or the D7000 and went with the 7000 because I would have money left over for glass, picking up an 18-55 VR II today
Don't dream of a D500. When you realize you actually need one, you will buy one. Until then use the D7000/7100 whatever intermediate prosumer something, get a 80-400 or similar lens and go out shooting planes, sports, wildlife, whatever. You will do loads of photography with an older body and a good lens.
I'm new to photography, but I've thought about buying a Nikon D3300. I've found some deals on amazon, but is it worth it to buy a kit with an SD card or is it better to buy one on the side?
I've been looking at this one (it's in german, sorry):
I have a d7200 and these lenses:
35mm 1.8 AF-S DX
28mm 2.8 series E
35-85mm 4.0-5.6 AF
The last is currently my only zoom. It came on an N60 at the thrift store for $10.
The 135mm was inherited from my grandfather. I plan to get it converted so I can use on the d7200.
Is this enough? Do I need a better zoom?
cop or not - the canon ef-s 24mm 2.8? about £100
anyone have experience with it? I find 50mm prime on a crop sensor gives a too narrow field of view for general use. and I want something nicer than the kit lens
I don't know Canon lenses specifically, but 24mm seems a bit wide for general use, as you put it. Not by a lot, but wider than what I would reach for if I didn't know what I was going to be shooting. You might try zooming your kit lens to 24mm and keeping it there for a while, see how you like the focal length before investing in it.
(I like a 35mm as a general purpose prime on my Nikon crop sensor camera.)
I would look into Bronicas instead, they are lighter and still superb IQ. I hiked innamountains for a total of 25 miles this weekend, my bronica setup weighs 27.5lbs. That includes:
body, wlf, 3 film backs, 3 lenses, tripod, filter kit, extra AA batteries (for the external battery pack) 8 rolls of film, notebook, domke f2 bag, light meter.
It's definitely heavy, but much lighter than the mamiya options.
Also, a TLR is fine too.
(pic unrelated, you're more likely to read my post with a pic though.)
28mm f/2.8 AI-s or 24mm f/2.8 AI/AI-s?
On one hand, the 24 is supposedly pretty average while the 28 is probably the best manual focus wide lens that Nikon ever made. But I also have 28mm equivalent lenses already and I've never used a 24mm before so I'm sort of curious to try it. I used to own the 28mm and I really liked it, too. Has anybody owned both before?
They're very similar lenses as far as I'm aware.
I'd say the quality of the 24mm is just as good.
This is the 28mm.
For me, 24mm is getting on too wide for taking photos of people with. Wide angle distortion starts to define the picture, especially at close quarters. It's fine for scenes thou.
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28mm for wide but general purpose, 24mm for wide, 20mm for W I D E. Really depends if you're shooting scenery, people, or scenery and people.
Cheap? The 28/3.5 series E. Didnt say it was good though.
Cheap/best? Any of the AIS models. But they're not cheap in the scheme of things. Might as well look at OM or other mounts for cheap good wide angles.
get the RB67, you'll like it. Go big or go home, get a decent tripod to carry it with and start lifting weights at the gym, or you could just use your camera.
/p/ I traded my 35 1.8 DX for the 18-55 VR II how bad did I fuck up. I seriously cannot find one flaw in the images this lens makes.
>/p/ I traded my 35 1.8 DX for the 18-55 VR II how bad did I fuck up. I seriously cannot find one flaw in the images this lens makes.
Well, you traded one lens for another worth half its value. So unless you got cash included in that trade, you already fucked up.
Other than that, yeah, nice lens. Slow, plasticky, noisy autofocus, utterly uninspiring, but breddy gud kit lens.
Just kill yourself at this point. That and sell all your lenses and pick up the Tamron which, by all counts, is a pretty good lens.
Old M43. Decent enough body, for its time. For $350, pretty good, now you have an old flagship camera. Go outside and take pictures.
I've noticed a lot of people that shoot with a GR shoot in B&W.
Is that due to the B&W processing of the camera? As in, should I shoot RAW and process it myself or let the camera process it in JPEG?
I guess I could do RAW+, in case I want color, but I'm curious if letting the camera do B&W or doing it myself will have better results.
Actually thinking about going digital MF. Might be able to use it for my even photography and make it earn dollarydoos. Either Pentax 645D or 645Z would be very noice in deed. Getting a few thousand bucks back from my tax refund so I may just be able to afford them and some noice glass.
I'll have to add a couple hundred of dollarydoos to my carry-on luggage each time I board a flight though. I would not trust baggage handlers with anything other than my underwear.
>Just kill yourself at this point.
Mayne, it's not my fault that there's sales and bargains going on everywhere...
>That and sell all your lenses and pick up the Tamron which, by all counts, is a pretty good lens.
I'll keep the winner of the Sigma 12-24mm or the Canon 17-40mm. Then I'll compare it to the Tamron 15-30mm and pick which one comes out on top. I'll be taking everything into consideration though.
Already know that the Tamron will be a bitch to carry around and blind fire, but it should have the best optical performance. So it's a matter of finding which one will be the right one for me overall.
I shoot black and white raws, you get to see the black and white on your LCD but then you also have the full color information so that you can later do a proper color-filtered B&W conversion. B&W with the GR is popular for several reasons. Yes in part I think the images from it somehow are really nicely suited for making good black and white conversions, but it's also partly just that it's easy to immediately see in B&W with the LCD screen and partly muh grainy Daido street meme and stuff like that.
I don't think it'll suddenly make you any better at black and whites and I also definitely have absolutely nothing against shooting color with the GR, but yeah B&W does seem to come kind of naturally with this camera.
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First, I'd like to say that I'm doing photography for myself to record and share memories with friends and family. Coming from a K-5II with IBIS, a DA 35mm, and 3 other manual focus lenses, I'm VERY tempted but still undecisive about getting an X-E2. Ideally, I'd be keeping the K-5II for any long events where I wouldn't be able to charge the Fuji or when I need something that looks more professional like school events. However, the Fuji just feels so much more fun to use. I haven't been bringing my Pentax because it's such a brick to carry when I'm hanging out with friends and I regret not being able to bring my camera. If it turns out that I'll never use the Pentax again because of how great the Fuji is, I'll probably just sell the Pentax and the 35mm. My plan is to get some old lenses and adapt them on the Fuji. You guys have any suggestions? Alternatives? I've shot on a film camera before and it's quite fun and interactive. I sometimes have more fun with it than my Pentax. Anyone have a similar experience?
Just sunk £400 into a Fuji GW680iii
Seller has an unconditional return policy so if the lens is fucked I can send it back,
If I remember and get my first roll developed in time I'll post results, if people care(?)
What if I'm gonna be adapting cheap lenses anyway cause I'm a poorfag?
Also, if I use a Pentax to Fuji adapter, is the aperture always stopped down to whatever I set it at, or is there some way for it to stop down while taking the shot?
To be fair it's a 680 so I've got an extra shot per roll and a slightly smaller neg.
I normally shoot 5x4 and didn't want too wide an aspect ratio, but didn't want basically the same on a smaller camera. Seems alright.
I just hope the lens is good...
>poor fuji lens selection meme
what else could you want? there's a full line up of primes from wide to portrait, a set of pro level zooms, a set of consumer level zooms, and a sharp "kit" zoom. Meanwhile, E-mount has a pair of mediocre pancakes, two expensive zooms, one mediocre telephoto, and a smattering of other primes that aren't particularly outstanding in any way whatsoever.
I hope somebody answers this, because if not im going to start my own flash unit thread and get yelled at for not posting in gear thread.
I just ran into some issues with on camera rear sync flash and i need to buy a new flash unit.
I tested out my friend's i40 and i love it, but it's a little pricey for how simple it is.
What are some similar flash units for better prices?
I wanna see which one is best for me. I was even considering the EF 11-24mm f/4L USM, but holy shit, it's just too much in every sens of the word.
I got the Canon 17-40mm and the Sigma 12-24mm for only $340 each so I'll be able to turn the loser over for decent dollarydoos anyway. Then Tamron 15-30mm f/2.8 VC USD becomes another "cheap" lens.
I switched from Nikon to Fuji and love my system, but I'm not totally sure about the X-E2. It's a bit dated and lacks a lot of the improvements that make the newest generation of Fuji cameras great.
That said, I'd probably still take it over the K-5. It's certainly a much better platform for MF lenses than an APS-C DSLR, thanks to the EVF with its peaking and split image options, and it's not like Fuji's own lens selection is really any worse than Pentax's APS-C lineup. (Especially since the Pentax lineup has a lot of "duplication," while almost every Fuji lens fits a different niche.)
I'd definitely spend the extra and get the kit if you can, by the way, the 18-55 is really good. It's far from the average kit lens, much closer to things that other camera companies would only sell on their own, and it'll be a useful thing to have, especially since it covers a range that your MF glass probably doesn't. (I'd say it's worth having just as an 18mm 2.8.)
I say this every time as well, and people haven't come up with many answers.
I guess what people really mean is that for a given focal length, Fuji doesn't offer much choice, and you're stuck with current-gen first party glass. I can see how maybe the system would be hard for somebody on a tight budget, because there's pretty much no third-party support (aside from Zeiss, whose lenses cost more than Fuji's and aren't any better) and you don't have the oceans of older used glass that you get with Nikon or Canon.
I think Sigma would be quite smart to adapt their APS-C glass to Fuji, and I'm really surprised they haven't. I can see X-T2 and X-Pro2 owners being a prime market for their 1.8 zooms, since they've already proven they're willing to invest FF money into an APS-C system.
What system? It might be worth looking at Yongnuo or Godox for Canon or Nikon. If you're a Fujifag, though, the i40 is kind of the only game in town if you want a full-featured flash. (With High Speed Sync etc.)
I looked at it a few weeks ago and wasn't impressed. Their APS-C lineup is particularly bad, it's just a whole bunch of normal zooms and a handful of slow and overpriced primes (their 24mm 1.8 costs substantially more than Fuji's 23 1.4. The FF E-mount lineup is a bit better, but it's also got a lot of slow and overpriced lenses ($800 35mm f/2.8 wtf), and you're into a size and price range that puts them into competition with FF DSLRs, not other mirrorless systems.
Of course, like I said above, that kind of changes when you factor in 3rd party glass. Sigma has been killing it lately and Sony gets access to much of their lineup, though some of the coolest stuff still needs an adapter. (Like the 1.8 zooms, which for some reason are A-mount and not E-mount, despite A-mount basically being dead when they came out.)
My system is deadass a sony, and im starting to get buyers remorse from the buttfuck firmware it has
Most yongnuo are compatible with sony cams right? looking at prices rn and it's p affordable
I think you'll need a dedicated Sony flash if you want rear curtain sync etc., and I'm not sure that Yongnuo makes one.
However, Godox does, and they're still pretty affordable (Around $120.) They also have built-in TTL wireless and you can get a combo kit with a transmitter, which might be nice if you're into off-camera flash. I've heard really good things about their products, and I've been thinking about picking up one of their manual 2 speedlite + transmitter kits for my Fuji system.
I've been thinking lately of switching from Pentax to EM-5II with the equivalent focal length lenses for wildlife. Then I looked at the final price difference and Pentax doesn't seem so difficult to carry around anymore.
Nah, Pentax has been selling its Limited 40mm APS-C lenses and it is pretty much a success.
It is the equivalent of the Helios 44 on FF in terms of view angle but in a much smaller package.
Yea some of the G stuff is absurdly large.
But then if you are using G, size isn't an issue.
There are plenty of solid FE primes like the 28mm, 35mm and 55mm.
The 90mm macro prime, while somewhat large, beats even the Canon L equivalent in lens tests.
>attacking someone for referencing technical lense quality when they're talking about the field of photography it's most necessary for
How to spot someone who's never shot macro in their life.
The thing that bugs me is that Sony's lens lineup just doesn't make sense. They make the same damn focal lengths over and over again, both in primes and zooms, while neglecting others.
I'm having trouble explaining this well, but it's like Sony looked at a list of top-selling glass from other brands and copied it. The problem is that that list contains variants of the same general niches over and over again, because 90% of buyers want a mid zoom and a tele zoom, but they don't all have the same budget. I guess it makes sense for Sony, since few of their buyers will ever delve deeper into the system than a couple of zooms anyway, but from my perspective as a serious photographer it really turns me off.
They also seem to make no attempt to make glass that's appropriate for their bodies strengths, either. It's absolutely insane to me that they made the smallest and lightest FF body out there, and then immediately threw their resources into giant zoom lenses that make you wonder why you didn't just buy a D810 or 5D instead. APS-C isn't much better, with the A6300 being an absolutely spectacular performer for action shooting, but with no attempt to make lenses that take advantage of it either. Again, it's like Sony's execs just based their decisions on sales sheets without considering anything else, like they saw that Canon and Nikon were selling tons of 24-70 2.8s and so they demanded that they have the same lenses.
I don't think people really think about this when they compare Sony and Fuji, and talk about Fuji's "limited" lens system. Fuji started by making one lens for every common focal length and application, and only once they were "done" did they start duplicating FLs. As it stands, Sony may make more lenses, but if you had an unlimited budget, it's Fuji who make more that you'd actually want to own at the same time.
>smallest and lightest FF body out there
All they do recently is release G and Zeis glass. There are barely any affordable lenses. Only one lens is remotely compact even (35 mm).
I am pretty sure the average price of FE mount lenses is well over $1000.
I mean I really love my a7ii body, but I find myself adapting non-native lenses more ofteb than native because they cost so fucking much.
It's all about physics really. It's impossible to make high-quality glass with AF, OSS and fast apertures for larger sensors. That's why their 24-70mm, 70-200mm and 85mm FF G Master lenses are so fucking massive, even bigger and heavier than Canon's offerings.
If you want compact lenses, go with vintage/MF lenses or slower apertures.
I'm back here after a few weeks with my "new" camera. The advice was 'get anything you can for cheap, then learn and next time you'll know what you need'.
I currently own a d3000, with a 18-55 and a 55-200, and a tripod (tp 320 from Jessops). At the moment the things I know I'll want to do are:
Pictures of the stars and the like
Being able to priorize more the shutter speed
Wanna try macro
Wanna make long exposure shots during the day without burning the pic
I dont know exactly what I need to do that, but probably more lenses, another body... I've been told also to get a 50mm and have contradicting statements regarding to filters.
Do you have any idea about what should I aim for?
Use only the M, A, S, P modes on the mode wheel. Forget about Auto and the various scene modes, those are for soccermoms and your friends if they want to try your "fancy pro camera".
Use A mode to control depth of field, higher value means narrower aperture and more DoF, lowest number means wide open, massive Bokeh shots.
Use S mode to control exposure time, 1/x seconds or full seconds. 1/2000s is fast shutter speed, freezes motion, needs more light, usually wider aperture. 1/60s or 1/30s are slower shutter speeds, blurs motion.
Longer exposures go up to 30s or indefinite in Bulb mode.
Pic very related
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No one sane.
I think most peoples issue is with the fact Sony pretty much ONLY makes pro-lenses. Their FE pro line is fantastic. But their consumer line is lacking.
For lens under $500 you have the kit lens (actually pretty solid) the 28mm (good), the 35mm f2.8 (good and the only remotely compact FE lens) and the 50mm (shit).
We don't see anything like Canon's fantastic 40mm that only costs $100.
I only use M mode when I need consistent exposure values throughout a series, like for panorama or if I want to do long exposure. Every other time I use shutter or aperture priority modes.
Have you thought about switching to an older model or are you dead-set on the E-M5II?
Do you know how adapting affects stopping down the lens when taking a shot? I'm kinda curious just for focusing sake.
Thing is, I'm worried this is more of a sidegrade rather than an upgrade. I know I'd LOVE the manual focus assists which has been one of my downfalls on the Pentax. Would you really say that it's dated even with the 4.00 update? It seems like a pretty competitive camera right now, but I guess I haven't had much exposure to it. Anyway, it seems like the best option would be to replace my K-5 and get the Fuji kit lens, while adapting my old lenses. Then, hopefully I can sell my K-5 for more than I got it for since I don't really use it anymore.
I just realized I bought my current camera for cheap, like a lot more cheap than I thought I did. Anywho, I have $400 laying around for a new one. What's the best DSLR or point and shoot I can acquire for $400? Im open to buying used.
I need PDAF and weatherproofing since I mostly shoot wildlife. 600mm equivalent lens is also a must.
So EM5II is the bare minimum, EM1 would be the present gear equivalent regarding the body.
AF takes up the most space. Also Sony's design language makes the lenses look bigger.
>tfw Nikon will never again make AF-D sized lenses
>tfw the 35/2 and 28/2.8 will never receive AIS optics but with screwdrive AF
It's only dated in the sense that next generation AF has arrived in Fuji's flagship models, and that they've been using 16 MP sensors well into the 24 MP generation. Asides from those two points, the XE2 and XT10 are for all intents and purposes current generation cameras.
The question is how soon will it be before we see trickle down? I estimate Photokina next year, maybe CES 2018 if you're lucky.
Then Fuji is perfect for you.
Recently ordered a shoulder rig and now looking for 1/4 screws, nuts, adapters, etc.
Where can I get them in mainland Europe? Hardware stores dont carry them and the Photo/music stores seem to be ripping me off
Where are you in mainland Europe? I just go down to the local screw and fastener/ hardware store and buy the non-metric screws. If they don't have any then it will be available next week at maximum.
I live in Hungary btw.
You can always try ebay.
I'm not kidding. 3 major hardware stores and none have emperial screws.
Shipping is an unnecessary cost.
Also looking for coldshoes with 1/4 screws so I can fix them to the frame
See what else the Amazon kit offers, those are usually good to have stuff.
If no SD card then just buy a Sandisk card at the closest shop. Buy one anyway, it is good to have another card on you in case the first one is full or broken.
not him, but make sure you get a class10 card, most of those kit offers give you crappy stuff like class 4 or whatever
it's usually better to not get the pack offers unless the deal is REALLY good, most of the filters and shit are really cheaply made
The Amazon kit gives a 16Gb class 10 card and a smaller DSLR case to the body+18-55 VR II kit.
It is not one of those shitty bundles with the useless guff.
I currently have the Sigma 70-300mm lens, it sucks when you zoom it out past 200mm, that is why I am looking at the Pentax 55-300mm, are there any other lenses that are similar I need to look at before buying?
The HD 55-300 is pretty much the best in the offerings in that zoom range and price.
There is the DA* 300 prime and the DA* 60-250 but at much higher price point.
Also Tamron 70-200/2.8 Macro and Sigma 70-200/2.8 OS HSM, also higher price point but not as high as the star lenses.
Question to anyone who had a 150-500 or 50-500 Bigma, preferably the OS HSM version:
Was the lens automatically recognized in Lightroom or did you have to choose it from the menu to do the profile corrections? For some reason it is recognized as a 12-24 lens instead of 50-500.
I currently use a D7000 and 80-200/2.8D and its a solid piece. I will say the only drawback Ive found is the small buffer on the D7k, but considering I paid about 330 USD for it, Im not really complaining. If buffer really does matter to you, I'd just go for the 7200 and be done with it.
If you have a K-3II or K-S2, it is better to wait for the 55-300 PLM. Collapsing design, fast and silent PLM AF, electromagnetic aperture control.
K-3 and before are cucked though, feels bad.
I have a k-30, mostly use it for bird photography with my bigma, but I want to use the 55-300mm for a walking around lens for when I am walking around between hides. I also saw that the new silent focusing 55-300mm the aparature will only open up to 4.5 instead of f4. This pic was taken on my bigma with the k-30
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Were can i find something like pic related.
Total OC of coarse.
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I need to grab a memory card but my old camera only takes CF, which looks way more expensive than standard sd cards. I've heard about CF to SD adapter that can fit in my camera but I'm not sure if thats the best option. Should I stick with standard cf cards or try to work with an adapter?
Would this lens be fine to use?
Im considering buying it but Iʻm not sure how badly it would affect the quality of the photos.
Iʻm just trying to find a cheap fast prime lens for my micro 4/3 which I have an adapter for.
that looks weird. You can get something like this capture clip that doesn't look as awkward. I hate straps myself and about to get one myself.
you just clip it on and strut around like a cowboy, pardnar
>you too can look and walk like an idiot
have that bigass length would be something to get used to, but it seems to be no more off looking than having a strap around your neck or arm and constantly having to adjust it from slipping off like a purse. You can also clip it to the shoulder strap of a camera bag
If I wanted to get into photography with a cheapish film camera ($100 or less) would I be able to take decent night/early morning and architecture/city photos? Or is that something you need spend more money on or digital for? With tech advances over the past few years can you get old dslr for around the same price? Pic related is the kind of stuff I'm interested in
As long as you have a lightmeter and tripod you should be okay with any decent film camera and high ISO film but you really need to know how to use it though - framing and focusing are KEY and it's gonna take some time before you can do all of that to get the image you want.
This makes digital way more accessible, you get way more chances and instant image preview. Maybe look up an older dslr on your local ebay and a tripod too - you'll need a tripod cause it's dark and you'll be using slower shutter speed which will cause shakiness. Also it's great if you can get RAW files from the camera too. They let you pull out much more from the image in editing - makes things look way better. To get a film look on digital use lightroom and a nice VSCO preset.
t. not an expert so take everything with a grain of salt
>Tamron: value plus performance
>Sigma: value and performance, but not as outright good as the tamron
>VRI: Meh corners on FX, older VR
>VRII: Very not parfocal, very excellent otherwise
>f4 VR: Positively tiny, very sharp, very fast focusing, very good VR
I'm personally partial to smaller lenses, and to camera brand lenses. I'd get a used f4 VR unless I was shooting indoors/night.
Took out my Sigma 12-24mm f/4.5-5.6 DG HSM II for a little test run today. >>2882060 I think I'll get rid of my Canon EF 17-40mm f/4L. Don't see any use for it since I've got my Tamron 24-70mm f/2.8 VC USD as well.
The XE2 released October 2013, the XT1 April 2014, and the XT10 May 2015. If you're lucky, there will be a XE3 by May 2017. I figure closer to Photokina that year though, depending on how desperate Fuji is to update the XE2.
CES is in January, so it's not far off from Photokina, but I don't think any manufacturer has announced anything special at CES ever.
I'm considering asking for a GH4 for Christmas this year since I don't really have a decent DSLR (I mainly shoot video on cine cams or photos on 35mm). How are people's experiences with the crop factor/using a slow zoom like f4.0-5.6? Are there any fast tele primes with stabilisation?
I am new to photography and still learning. I picked up a mirrorless body to adapt some old lenses I had and have been very happy with it. I have been taking scenary, architecture, and pictures of my family.
Right now, I don't own a lens longer than 70mm, but today I went shooting with a telezoom (28-300mm). I am not all that happy with the image quality of some of the shots (it is an ancient film era telezoom), but having that long range was quite nice.
So I am now eyeing the EF Canon 70-200mm USM. It is quite cheap, and quite good from what I am hearing on the web. I don't need the IS either because my camera body has it.
So my question is, is the 70-200mm IS version better optically? And is the 70-200mm f2.8 worth the doubled price?
The IS version adds image stabilization, if you would test both in a studio setting you wouldn't notice a difference in image quality.
The IS and the 2.8 version help you to deal with less than optimal light situations, only you know what you shoot with it and if you might end up in situations where you might need the extra f stop or Image stabilization. If you continue shooting scenery and architecture you have a lot of control over your shot and might just need a tripod, then you wouldn't need the IS obviously.
Keep in mind that Canon is not the only brand making great lenses. The Sigma and Tamron alternatives cost just a fraction and you won't notice a big difference in most cases.
I tested the Tamron on a festival and it was great. Just as fast and sharp as the Canon, no problems focusing the dancing people though the festival mist. Pic related is the Tamron at 2.8, this is 100% zoomed in.
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I have the older Tamron, without the IS. It gets a little soft at f/2.8 but it can help creating a nice dreamy effect if needed. I usually use it at f/4 when I need maximum sharpness, then it becomes a poremaster.
It is definitely one of the best lenses for portraits and sports/events.
>The IS and the 2.8 version help you to deal with less than optimal light situations
My body actually has IS built into it, so the lens not having it isn't really the end of the world.
I tend to find myself shooting handheld quite often though. Most places with interesting architecture around here (temples, shrines, etc.) ban tripods. Plus I tend to take portraits of my family.
Thanks for pointing out the Sigma and Tamron models. I will take a look at them. They are both pretty much half the price of the f 2.8 Canon around here.
>My body actually has IS built into it, so the lens not having it isn't really the end of the world.
IBIS is not as effective as OIS, however, IS is better than no IS at all (sometimes).
I turn off IS when my shutter speed it high enough as IS can introduce blurry images via over-correction.
IBIS is plenty effective than OIS, in fact OIS is only 2 axis stabilized, no rotational correction. Whereas the simplest IBIS (like in Pentax bodies below K-1) has 2 axis shift plus these combined gives rotational axis totaling at 3-axis stabilization, K-1 and OLY IBIS gives you 5 axis stabilization meaning your focal plane won't tip out from the sensor frame, giving you even sharper stabilization.
OIS is only good for having a stabilized image in the optical viewfinder but it is not a real necessity.
Is the D7000 still a decent camera if I don't care about video or connectivity? Looking for a second body in addition to my D3200 and would like something tougher with better external controls. DXOMark comparisons indicate it performs similarly in terms of DR, ISO Noise and overall image quality and I'm fine with the reduced pixel count so it seems like a good bet. Just wondering what people's opinions on actually owning and using one are...
(inb4 D7100, D7200, Full frame etc - I am on a very tight budget here...)
IBIS isn't as effective at long focal lengths as OIS too. Olympus' IBIS benefits from having a large range of freedom to still give 3ish stops at 2-300mm equiv. But OIS really shows off after that.
>Buy a premium Fuji lens on Ebay listed as "new"
>Pay substantially less than a new one
>Seller claims it's only the box thats opened, everything else is untouched.
>Arrives, check lens. A bit of a scratch on the side - purely cosmetic
>kick up a fuss to the seller
>Get a massive partial refund and apology
ebay always bends over backwards for asshole buyers with bullshit complaints like you at the expense of sellers, there was no luck involved. I'm glad you did your part to make ebay even shittier, though.
No mr salty mcsalterson, he sold a lens under the banner NEW - I got it, with a nice scuff on the side. He later revealed he bought it from some asshole on Amazon and he didn't inspect the lens himself when got it - then his 30 day money back was lost - so he tried to shill it on Ebay, and guess what? He done fucked himself because he was a retard.
His loss, my gain. If you're not pants on heads retarded, you can actually make decent money from Ebay.
I bet you whine about snipes as well.
My new rig came in the post this morning. Owned a D700 back from 2013-2015 but sold it when I needed cash to pay off a debt, haven't shot since.
Paid $1000 AUD flat for the body, 50mm 1.8D, genuine Nikon battery grip, extra batteries and 3 CF cards. Damn bargain if you ask me.
>tfw the NX1 is the only mirrorless system to nail what could have been the pro mirrorless market
>tfw Samsung axed the entire platform
It was perfect. All of the controls and sizing large enough to be used comfortably. Weather sealing, magnesium alloy chassis. The fastest, high res OLED EVF. Tilting touchscreen. Wifi, bluetooth, good PDAF, two pro zooms that cover 80% of everybody's needs, fps. Buffer's a little weak. Highest res APS-C sensor, very ISO invariant. Fast processor. It had everything, and needed nothing. It's only failures are being sold by a fridge and TV company, and as a result, having lolnolens.
>gearfagging this hard
$1000 for all that is a steal. I cant even get a D700 by itself for $1000. I'd rather have the D700 than a D3300 if they're going to have the same quality pictures too. Dat weather sealed pro ergo tank of a body.
5 or 6 years ago before Sony and Fuji even existed all the gearfags were jerking each other off over how great the D700 was and parading its DXO numbers around and dreaming of owning one. It's still the same damn camera and it's an excellent camera. They're dirt cheap now, too.
I guess there is no cure for gearfaggotry.