Hi guys
Everyone always says to shoot raw.
...but how do you edit your raw files to look palpable?
What makes, say, Fuji's JPEG film simulation modes look the way they do? How do you reproduce VSCO filters?
>open lightroom
>spin all the dials
>add vignette
That's all there is to it
>>2854126
Slide the sliders
Curve the tone curve
Color the colors
Export
Does anyone else have issues with RAFs and Rawtherapee? It works just fine for NEFs but Fuji raws are all fucked up.
>>2854292
>Rawtherapee
telecreep pls go.
>>2854126
>how do you edit your raw files to look palpable?
My technique using Lightroom:
1. Crop and then set white balance temp and tint
2. slide shadows to the right
3. slide highlights to the left
4. hold ALT and slide whites to the right until you just start to see color -- this sets your white point.
5. hold ALT and slide blacks to the left until you see color to set black point -- you can be more generous on blacks than on whites.
6. adjust exposure if needed
7. add contrast if needed
8. clarity - I rarely use this
9. vibrance - increase/decrease just a few points at a time, it's very powerful
10. saturation - see vibrance
11. sharpening - scroll down to the Detail section and add between 20 and 90 sharpening.
12. masking - hold ALT and slide right to set your sharpening mask. usually end up around 40-something
13. noise reduction - slide Luminance right to this formula: 100 minus value you set for sharpening.
14. In Lens Correction check "Enable Profile Corrections"
15. In Effects, slide Post-crop vignetting Amount to left for vignette
When I used raw therapee, I don't know why but all my shadows, even it broad daylight, had horrendous noise. I took the same raw file and bought the adobe creators suite or whatever with lightroom it looked fine.
>>2854341
RT's auto-exposure uses compulsory highlight compensation in a way that pretty much ensures all output will be pastelly and borderline HDR. I pointed this out to them and asked for a way to disable it, but the method they suggested basically means you can't auto-expose either. One of their main devs is evidently rather partial to it.
Now I use darktable.
But ufraw is also just as capable, albeit slightly more tedious to use....
>>2854302
Wut?
I used to use RT a lot but I've since switched to Capture NX-D for all my NEFs. NX-D is fucking donkey dicks but it gets the job done. But for the rare occasions I shoot raw with my X20 I need to use something else and I don't want to pay Adobe's kingly ransoms or worry about sketchy editions from the free store. Is the Fuji software even worth trying or is there a better free option?
>>2854341
>raw therapee
Scrollan fast, thought I saw rare pepe.
>disappoint
>>2854369
ufraw is not an artists tool
darktable is buggy
rawtherapee is hdrshit
why does open SORES software have to be so crap
there is no catharsis
>>2854302
Raw The Rapee
>>2854502
Libre tends to attract a certain.. spectrum.. of programmers.
>>2854502
render to a lossless tiff in PhotoNinja and then edit it in LR or PS. There, you're done.
You don't even have to use the interface that much. Give yourself a flat file to work with (PN automatically renders it with better highlights/shadows levels) then just edit the output in your program of choice. The tiff has pretty much all the information the raw does.
>>2854339
>Doesn't even set colour calibration
>sets lens corrections after editing
plz stop advice.
1. Set colour calibration (very bottom of the lr dev panel) & white balance
2. Do lens corrections and crop
4. Crank clarity and max sliders to make any sensor dust or other filth as prominent as possible and clean it up, zero sliders.
3. Tone sliders and curves so picture starts looking like you want for exposure & contrast.
4. Tweak colours,sat and vib as some of your colours are probably hot after boosting contrast (especially of you use the highs minned, shadows maxed and light and dark point set whilst holding alt method)
5. Local adjustments (grads, radial filters etc)
6. Effects (nr, vignette, grain, etc)
7. Final curves tweaks.
Why do i do it in this order? Because I'm building an image from the ground up, not just jumping in in a random order, doing it the same way every time will also help build continuity in your shots.
>>2854554
Lol get over yourself. Lightroom is babby tier.
>>2854143
> dials
> lightroom
>>2854565
dials will come when they support fuji
>>2854560
All of that is just as relevant in dxo and c1. Noob.
Also, your defending software over technique. Lollllllllllll. Stay mad, stay bad.
>>2854554
Thanks for this, I've been trying to follow your routine this morning and it's working out for me much better, I get a much clearer image in my head of where I want the photo to go.
>>2854573
Wait, lightroom doesn't support Fuji? I feel like I would have heard about that... Do fuji shooters just shoot to JPEG and edit that then?
>>2854339
>not starting with profile corrections so you can accurately crop and take vignette corrections into account
your black point adjustments will be off because the corners will clip faster.
>full shadow and highlight recovery
not every photo needs to have a fucking huge dynamic range, anon. learn to embrace the limitations and even decrease the dynamic range on purpose.
>setting the black and white points
not every photo needs to have a strong highlight or a strong shadow. sometimes you won't want any clipping.
>adjust exposure if needed
congrats, you just undid your black and white points adjustments.
>>2854554
>colour calibration
I think you mean camera calibration, it has color settings. I leave them on Adobe Standard and I very rarely make any adjustments unless there's some issue where I want more or less of just one particular color. Normally, white balance Temp and Tint are all I use for color. Can you tell us how you're using the calibration color settings?
>sets lens corrections after editing
For my gear, checking "Enable Profile Corrections" removes barrel distortion and vignetting.
I also check "Remove Chromatic Aberration" to get rid of any fringing.
It doesn't do much else for my images, so I don't rush to set lens correction at the start of my workflow.
>>2854620
you're shooting raw format or jpg?
>>2854666
not that guy, but I usually keep it in Adobe Standard too and deal with problematic colors in the curves and HSL panels.
>>2854657
Lightroom absolutely supports Fuji raw files. Ignore him. He pops up a lot. Much like comments about how the X100s is unusable, we all suffer through them.
[EXIF data available. Click here to show/hide.]
Camera-Specific Properties: Image-Specific Properties: Horizontal Resolution 300 dpi Vertical Resolution 300 dpi Color Space Information sRGB
>>2854666
>adobe standard
So you want to ignore any attempt at colour neutrality for your specific body and just go for the adobe tar brush approach?
If you shoot sony, enjoy those dull blues
If you shoot nikon, enjoy those fucked greens
If you shoot canon, goodbye nice pastel tones
If you shoot fuji, stop, close LR, find a product that supports your raw files.
>>2854670
The hsl panel & curves is a bit of a brute of a method, try getting close with the camera calibration panel, i find it keeps a much more harmonious, natural palette.
>>2854671
Why's this image so soft looking?
>>2854126
I have a question about exporting from camera raw:
Sometime when exporting my pictures they turn out with different saturation/white balance etc. than I've seen it in the editor.
Clearly this is a color space issue, but I haven't got to actually understand what is going on.
I tried changing them around.. the one I find generally most reliable is sRGB IEC61966-2.1
Which color spaces do you guys use, how do you deal with this?
>>2855401
I use AdobeRGB and export to web-safe sRGB
>>2855401
The working color space doesn't matter as long as it's wider than sRGB (so Adobe RGB, ProPhoto RGB and sRGB).
When you export your JPEGs, you _need_ to convert them to sRGB and embed color space information, unless you're printing and the lab told you otherwise.
Most of the software you see on your computer and mobile devices isn't color managed. This normally means everything is assumed to be in sRGB. What's likely happening is that you're not converting to sRGB when you export, so your JPEGs are in a different color space, and photo viewing software that isn't color managed is assuming they are in sRGB, hence the weird colors.
>>2855440
thanks man, it makes sense now
>>2855351
I shoot with a fuji and so far I've only used JPGs so I dunno how LR works with fuji's raws, but I see people say that LR messes them up all the time. how so? anyone can explain to me more specifically?
>>2855385
Probably because it was shot wide open at ISO 800 and then I added a lot of grain afterwards in post. Here's a 100% crop though.
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>>2855492
Here's another, with the grain removed (but no noise reduction)
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>>2855493
And just for fun, the same crop (though completely unprocessed) out of PhotoNinja.
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>>2855501
Holy moiré Batman!
>>2855508
I know, right? I was surprised too. Never seen it before from any of my shots.
>>2855511
But wasn't x-trans meant to address such things at exposure level?
>>2855513
Yeah, pretty much exclusively. It generally does do really well though. Like I said, that's literally the first time I've ever seen it in my images, and I'm well over 50,000 photos on Fuji at this point.
Something about the stitching on the denim must have been extra weird I guess.
>>2854126
why is darktable denoise so crap?
it eats all the detail and somehow adds artifacts that look like chromatic aberrations.
fuji in-camera jpg on the left, darktable doing its best to keep up on the right.
darktable denoise is a perfect filter for 'make a dog puked on the lens'.
half the reason i went with fuji is because i heard it would make wrestling with chroma noise a thing of the past. now i learn you only get that by shooting jpeg. what???
what gives
what am i doing wrong
>>2856140
Darktable doesn't support fuji, the de-noise is based on a bayer filtered sensor.
Pro-tip; No professional raw editing software supports fuji, which is why they're seen as "toy" cameras.
>>2856145
sony shill detected
>>2856145
http://www.fujifilm.com/support/digital_cameras/software/myfinepix_studio/rfc/
There is this, feels like fucking 1990s software, complete with low res fonts, and it's slow as shit
After playing with it my end opinion is it's a damn good thing Fuji can do decent jpeg engines because RAFs totally blow.
>>2856153
>points out a dealbreaking issue for fuji cameras
>HURRRRR SONY SHILL
Stay frosty at your shitty gear.
>>2854292
Rawtherapee doesn't even launch for me.
>>2854143
>add vignette
>>2854339
>this whole post
reeeee, stop triggering me fucking normies, you're not much better than IG filter-using hipster scum. You know just because your software has lots of sliders doesn't mean you have to move them all!
>b-but every slider makes my image look better if slid properly
and that's why most of you fucks ruin your pictures in pp and would do a better job if you stuck to lens correction, WB, exposure, leveling and crop.
>muh contrast
>muh curves
>muh vibrance
>muh vignetting
>>2856140
all denoise is crap, although this one is really bad
>>2856256
I like you. Internet high-five, minimal postprocess bro. Can't stand these Flickr clown-vomit plastic destroy-all-trace-of-reality photo fucks.
>>2856232
>Makes up a dealbreaking issue for fuji cameras
Fixed that for you.
>>2856145
>what is C1?
>>2856256
>b-but every slider makes my image look better if slid properly
>and that's why most of you fucks ruin your pictures in pp
how does these to go together?
also next time you can kindly direct people processing their pics like shit to the post processing thread
we have one y know
>>2854369
I use Darktable on Linux too after experimenting with RT for dualbooting greatness. But I just wasnt able, with all my might, to recreate some cool adjustements I made in Darktable in RT, no matter how hard I tried.
The Interface is horrible, but it works.
But I just can't get decent HDRs. When combining they always end up either browned-up or pinked-up and I cant get rid of that. THis one was browned up. You can still see it in clouds.
[EXIF data available. Click here to show/hide.]
Camera-Specific Properties: Equipment Make Panasonic Camera Model DMC-G70 Camera Software GIMP 2.8.16 Maximum Lens Aperture f/4.0 Sensing Method One-Chip Color Area Focal Length (35mm Equiv) 42 mm Image-Specific Properties: Image Orientation Top, Left-Hand Image Created 2016:06:07 20:12:46 Exposure Time 1/800 sec F-Number f/13.0 Exposure Program Manual ISO Speed Rating 100 Exposure Bias -1 EV Metering Mode Pattern Light Source Unknown Flash No Flash, Compulsory Focal Length 21.00 mm Color Space Information sRGB Image Width 1152 Image Height 866 Exposure Mode Manual Image Quality Unknown White Balance Auto Focus Mode Manual Spot Mode Unknown Image Stabilizer Mode 1 Macro Mode Normal Shooting Mode Manual Audio No Flash Bias 0.00 EV
>>2858196
>DMC-G70
Well, there's your problem.
>>2858201
I know it's not a premiere Photocam, I mainly got it for the video properties, but I still like to shoot as well.
I am currently using autobracket with 3x1 but I have the suspicion, an entire step in each direction would be too much.
I also have the problem that often, even when using a tripod, the buttonpress could be enough to shake the cam and create weird double- or triple-images at the edges.
And also, I have taken 2 identical sets of autobrackets of the same object and for one, the HDR image would be pinked, and for the other, it would be browned.
How is that?Why do HDR images not act like other images when editing in Darktable? Is the programm messing with something I cant see?
It's just so weird, it's almost freaking me out.
This is an HDR shot I'm actually proud of. But I also lose a lot of colour in every HDR image.
I try to work with global tonemap, since that's what the interwebz say it's for.
[EXIF data available. Click here to show/hide.]
Camera-Specific Properties: Equipment Make Panasonic Camera Model DMC-G70 Camera Software GIMP 2.8.16 Maximum Lens Aperture f/3.5 Sensing Method One-Chip Color Area Focal Length (35mm Equiv) 28 mm Image-Specific Properties: Image Orientation Top, Left-Hand Image Created 2016:05:29 20:59:57 Exposure Time 1/250 sec F-Number f/6.3 Exposure Program Manual ISO Speed Rating 400 Exposure Bias -1 EV Metering Mode Pattern Light Source Unknown Flash No Flash, Compulsory Focal Length 14.00 mm Color Space Information sRGB Image Width 1152 Image Height 866 Exposure Mode Manual Image Quality Unknown White Balance Auto Focus Mode Auto Spot Mode Unknown Image Stabilizer Mode 1 Macro Mode Normal Shooting Mode Manual Audio No Flash Bias 0.00 EV
>>2858208
Do you 'White Balance' correct or are you that kind of people that doesn't shoot in raw?
>>2858232
I use levels if that's what you mean.
FOr some reason, when working with the hdr files (.dng) darktable cant auto adjust exposure
Darktable can only do HDR with non-beyer raw files anyway.
>>2858232
>>2858268
NVM just realized what you meant.
Yeah, whitebalance seems to be what's fucked up about HDR.dng
It's still dark as fuck but I can handle that.
I consider this my best HDR so far.
[EXIF data available. Click here to show/hide.]
Camera-Specific Properties: Equipment Make Panasonic Camera Model DMC-G70 Camera Software GIMP 2.8.16 Maximum Lens Aperture f/4.0 Sensing Method One-Chip Color Area Focal Length (35mm Equiv) 42 mm Image-Specific Properties: Image Orientation Top, Left-Hand Image Created 2016:06:07 23:35:31 Exposure Time 1/400 sec F-Number f/13.0 Exposure Program Manual ISO Speed Rating 100 Exposure Bias -1 EV Metering Mode Pattern Light Source Unknown Flash No Flash, Compulsory Focal Length 21.00 mm Color Space Information sRGB Image Width 1152 Image Height 866 Exposure Mode Manual Image Quality Unknown White Balance Auto Focus Mode Manual Spot Mode Unknown Image Stabilizer Mode 1 Macro Mode Normal Shooting Mode Manual Audio No Flash Bias 0.00 EV
I use Lightroom because it's simply the best at everything it does except for HDR and advanced stitching, which can easily be done in PS. It makes getting exactly what you want extremely fast and easy, which is really important, since I'd rather be taking pictures than nerding about on a computer all day just to get my shit to work.
It starts at import. I import with a default profile that has the colors, camera calibration, and automatic lens corrections that I usually like. I import with the camera calibration profile Camera Landscape because I like the colors it produces with my camera far more than Adobe's standard profile. Also under camera calibration, I have default colors messed with as well.
That's most of my editing done upon import, usually. With portraits, I find cameras rarely capture hair perfectly. I usually end up doing hours of brushing with portraits.
On landscapes, I often simply burn and dodge, with some color masking depending, then slider adjustment. I'm usually perfectly fine with auto white balance.
I just don't like digital grayscale. Digital grain doesn't help in my eyes. Are those digital cameras with the color filters removed just memes or do they produce superior grayscale images?
>>2858314
You should have focus bracketed as well.
In fact, you should have deleted the image. Shit lighting. Everything that isn't the subject is lit.
>>2854126
>palpable
>>2858508
What do you mean by focus Bracketing? Can I do it automatically or do I have to do it by hand?
Wont that lead to the combined HDR image being kind of out-of-focus everywhere?
What's a good guideline to doing HDR with such a bright background?
>>2858728
I'm not going to tell you how to focus without moving the frame, so just figure out how to do that.
Basically, when you bracket for exposure, also bracket for focus. Make sure that the exposure area you're bracketing for is the same as the focus area to make it look good, otherwise you'll have different parts of the image in and out of focus, and you'll be throwing away most of the focus bracketing.
>Wont that lead to the combined HDR image being kind of out-of-focus everywhere?
If you do it the way I describe above, and you HDR the image manually - nothing more than brushing out overlayed images - it will look good.
Learn how to bracket without using built in bracketing. It'll help you figure out how to focus bracket.
>>2859784
Oh, and the less focus breathing your lens has, the less cropping and adjustment you'll have to do in post process.
>>2859784
>>2859787
I don't even know how to manually bracket. I cant find a way to change exposure value manually, should I just adjust Shutterspeed within the recommended bracket?
Also, what are these weird coloured lines around the statue? I see them often when HDR-ing.
I guess they are from when the bright light overshines the edges on the higher-exposed images but not the lower-exposed images. Can anyone confirm?
[EXIF data available. Click here to show/hide.]
Camera-Specific Properties: Equipment Make Panasonic Camera Model DMC-G70 Camera Software GIMP 2.8.16 Maximum Lens Aperture f/4.0 Sensing Method One-Chip Color Area Focal Length (35mm Equiv) 42 mm Image-Specific Properties: Image Orientation Top, Left-Hand Image Created 2016:06:09 22:51:51 Exposure Time 1/200 sec F-Number f/5.6 Exposure Program Normal Program ISO Speed Rating 200 Exposure Bias -0.3 EV Metering Mode Pattern Light Source Unknown Flash No Flash, Compulsory Focal Length 21.00 mm Color Space Information sRGB Image Width 866 Image Height 1152 Exposure Mode Auto Bracket Image Quality Unknown White Balance Auto Focus Mode Auto Spot Mode Unknown Image Stabilizer Mode 1 Macro Mode Normal Shooting Mode Unknown Audio No Flash Bias 0.00 EV
>>2859873
Set your camera to manual mode and change the aperture, shutter speed, and ISO for each shot you want to composite for HDR.
If you can't manually change exposure in some way, throw your camera away and pick up a better hobby, like fishing.
>>2859883
>if you aren't good, give up
Thanks for the advice!
>>2859904
you're dumb
>>2859904
well if know what bracketing is, then you know what changes exposures - it's not a hard rule
>>2859907
I know how to change exposure, otherwise I wouldn't have suggested changing the exposure time (since it doesnt cause to noise more or messes with the edges), just don't know how to change that value that autobracketing changes. It's talking about stuff like third steps, twothird steps and whole steps. I guess it's something about the sensor, but I don't know WHAT exactly it changes.
>>2859920
steps?
you mean stops?
ab changes the shutter speed
>>2859920
>>2859907
>>2859883
Ok I just went through the EXIF files of my autobracketed shots and looks like it just autoadapts the exposure time 99% of the time (there was one aperture change but maybe that wasnt realy part of an autobracket set).
SO I guess the camera DOESNT change something about the sensor that I cant change.
Now about those weird chromatic edges. I tried enabling chromatic abberation but it doesnt do much.
Should I defocus one of the bracket shots?
>>2859928
Nope, the menu says "Step" under bracketing options
Here I made an image of how my camera autobrackets. It seems to simply adjust exposure time, but also, there's this weird symbol with the +/- at the bottom
[EXIF data available. Click here to show/hide.]
Camera-Specific Properties: Equipment Make Nokia Camera Model Lumia 730 Dual SIM Camera Software GIMP 2.8.16 Focal Length (35mm Equiv) 28 mm Image-Specific Properties: Image Orientation Top, Left-Hand Horizontal Resolution 72 dpi Vertical Resolution 72 dpi Exposure Time 3303/40000 sec F-Number f/1.9 ISO Speed Rating 800 Lens Aperture f/1.9 Exposure Bias 0 EV Metering Mode Average Light Source Unknown Flash No Flash Focal Length 3.24 mm Color Space Information sRGB Image Width 1536 Image Height 3406 Exposure Mode Auto White Balance Auto Scene Capture Type Standard
![shutter-speeds-chart[1].jpg](https://i.imgur.com/jPo7HQD.jpg "shutter-speeds-chart[1].jpg")
>>2859873
>weird coloured lines
color fringing AKA chromatic aberration
google "tutorial+lightroom+remove+chromatic+aberration"
make these edits before combining your HDR images
>how to manually bracket
You're going to take 3 images. Here's how:
Decrease ISO to 100 for sharpest image.
Compose and focus your shot using a tripod.
Set aperture and shutter speed for normal exposure.
Put camera into 'M' manual mode and take pic.
This first image is your normal image. Look at the histogram, see where most of the data lies.
Staying in manual mode, decrease your shutter speed by two stops, see pic related. Take pic.
This second image is your dark image. On the histogram, all of the data should be on the left.
Still in manual mode, increase your shutter speed to two stops faster than your original shutter speed. Take pic.
This third image is your lights--on the histogram, all the data should be on the right.
Generally, two stops seems to be the ideal for my camera. You might have different results. Reference the histogram to see where the data lies and decide if you need to increase/decrease the number of stops on your dark and light images.
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>>2859949
I can tell you haven't read your camera manual because all of that shit is explained in detail.
Rotating the dial on your camera will make the arrows (1,2,3) spread out. You want to be at two stops, so you should rotate the dial until the '1' arrow is on -2 and the '3' arrow is on +2.
That means your camera will take a sequence of three images. The first will be underexposed -2 stops (dark), then normal exposure, than overexposed +2 stops (lights).
>>2859955
>Rotating the dial on your camera will make the arrows (1,2,3) spread out.
>That means your camera will take a sequence of three images.
I'm sorry but DUUUUUUUH I HORVENT FIGGURD THET OUT YEEET!
I have read the manual. But it doesnt say what it actually changes and what that symbol means. And THAT'S what the question was about. I wanted to understand how the autobracket works in order to know how to manual bracket better than it.
>>2859959
>step 3*2/3
The first number is how many shots. I think my camera can do 3, 5 or 7 but I found that 3 is sufficient, anymore is overkill and waste of time.
The 2/3 indicates the change in exposure between each shot by two 1/3 stops. You should increase this from 2/3 to two
>sequence -/0/+
very simple, this means the camera is going to take three bracketed photos in the sequence of underexposed/correct exposure/overexposed.
>understand how the autobracket works in order to know how to manual bracket better
I used to manual bracket to ensure I was always at the same aperture. Now, I use auto bracket but I put my camera in Aperture priority mode so that the shutter speed changes, not the aperture.
![histograms[1].png](https://i.imgur.com/DNE5Cg7.png "histograms[1].png")
>>2859959
>how to manual bracket better
Suggestion: watch some youtube tutorials on histograms.
shoot real estate interiors. If I'm in a room with open curtains and I want to expose for what's outside, then I have to stop down my camera, take the shot, then change the exposure for interior and take shot. Knowing how to comprehend the data on the histogram makes all the difference. It's the only way that I know to tell if you're not getting the lights/darks in your image. This is particularly relevant for situations where your camera's sensor is fooled by bright lights or changing light conditions
>>2859971
Again, answering every question except the one that was posed.
It was all about the +/- symbol at the bottom of the display
>>2859978
thanks
>>2860007
that's exposure compensation
how long have you had a camera?
>>2860007
http://pseudosticky.wikia.com/wiki/Pseudo_sticky#Exposure_Value_.28Compensation.29
