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You are currently reading a thread in /p/ - Photography
Film General Thread, aka FGT.
>just posting in the FGT doesn't make you gay, unless you shoot menelta
This is the thread for all of your stupid film questions, and to post your film snapshits without flushing them down the RPToilet.
It's OK to ask about film gear in this thread.
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Some break down IR exposure for me.
I have a shit ton of Nikkor glass with the red tick marks for IR focusing on them and I have what I believe to be a 720 or 820nm filter that you can't see through.
Do I expose for this like I would for visible light? Also doesn't it expose as regular BW film without the IR filter?
>>2810779
You should specify the particular IR film you're using.
You'll probably want to overexpose by 5 stop and it will probably look like a normal BW film at box speed w/o the filter.
>>2810765
And to start, some shots from my first bulk roll of HP5. My preferred EM has started leaking light like a bitch, but only in the top corner of a few negs. I glued in some film canister felt, so we'll see how that goes...
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I'm trying to DSLR scan my collection of film with pp in lightroom. The problem is that I get this reddish tint that I can't get rid of.
>>2810820
To piggyback off of this, is it with it to adapt a NIKKOR EL 75 F4 to a a6k for scanning 35mm film
>>2810818
Correction, only in a veil over the entire width of the negs...
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>>2810822
has anyone really been far even as decided to use even go want to do look more like?
>>2810828
Is it worth it to adapt a enlarging lens to a a6k to scan film?
>>2810823
I mainly just blasted off a roll of snapshits asap, so I could see how far the light penetrated into the ends of the film from loading.
I think I'm going to make a felt trap for the lip of the loader though, I lost 2 whole frames off the end of this roll and ran out of film at frame 34.
But hey, I didn't load the reel backwards or anything Sugar-tier like that, so I'd call it a success
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>>2810837
Well you'd need to get a bellows, with an M39 adapter, or an M39 helicoid adapter so you could focus it, which would be a bit of a fuck around.
Also, I'm not all that sure that enlarger lenses are as good as they're cracked up to be, especially contrast wise. But there's no harm in experimenting.
Also, if the lense has illuminated aperture numbers, tape over that shit before using it as a taking lense.
Should I overexpose portra for landscape?
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Will exposed film last as long as unexposed film in the freezer?
>>2810850
:^)
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>tfw shooting Menelta
A-Am I gay?
>>2810965
Camper than a row of tents.
Any advice for removing dust off of negs? Do I wipe them off or something? It feels almost futile to try
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How to dslr scan ugly c41 negatives better?
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>>2810765
Stupid question but why the film on the left is red ?
>>2810987
Just regular color negs that look a bit wonky due to white balance setting?
Top right is slides, and bottom apparently BW.
>>2810979
No idea what you're using so can't give you much input.
I use a nex 3f with 50mm lens and macro converter and get better results than most photolabs offering scaning with developing film. The grain on the edges of the frame gets distorted and blurred a little bit, that's my only problem. I still dont know what lens would be best. I have a decent 50mm, 28mm and a crappy 70-210 zoom lens.
>>2810979
>>2810995
And a sample, resized but you can still see the blur and that bit of distortion on the grain. Most of the frame looks ok thou, in my opinion.
>>2810979
aaaand as for color:
you just need to set the white balance properly in PS every time you scan a picture. Just use curves to set your whitepoint and blackpoint and then start your actual color correction
How much sodium sulfite should I add to the Rodinal to lower the grain?
(Hp5@1600)
>>2811020
Isn't it just pointless to push film with Rodinal? Your contrast will get fucked up I think. Not speaking from experience but I've been told that Rodinal is not really suitable for pushing.
>>2811022
Probably, I'm not an expert, maybe someone can answer us.
but I'll will use it also for hp5@400.
So, same question. How much sodium sulfite to lower the grain in rodinal?
>>2811024
you can read this
http://photo.net/black-and-white-photo-film-processing-forum/00A79Q
Pushing is useless in terms of shadow detail, all you're really doing is pushing the lower midtones up the curve, which was necessary back in the day for darkroom printing, since paper had a fix contrast grade. It comes at the cost of highlight detail and separation, and it augments grain.
Shadow detail depends on exposure and type of developer used, pushing is only useful for aesthetic reasons, which are easily obtainable in post. Rodinal is used for pushing because it accentuates the properties of the developer: contrast and grain. It yields poor shadow detail even at box speed, so it's recommended to expose the film more and develop less, to preserve highlight detail.
Essentially, expose for shadows and develop for highlights.
>>2811058
What if you only push becouse you are forced/need to shoot in poor lightning conditions?
>>2810969
Wiping wont do anything
You need a proper solution and need to wash it again cause the dust is stuck to the negative
>>2811020
Bump this, not only for pushed film but in General for medium and high sensibility film
>>2811060
I did this the other day, but I'm a scrub.
Expose for shadows as if it were the ISO you want (800,1600) then develop for one or two stops push.
I did it with DD-X, it turned out okay.
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>>2810969
I use compressed air
What's your call on Yashica Electro 35 gsn? I found one being sold for $30. Does in accept normal LR44 batteries? Or does it need to be modified first?
>>2811167
You need a 6V battery. Modern ones are way to small for the battery compartment designed for ye olde 5.6V mercury battery. You can get adapters for pretty cheap, or do some modding yourself to make it fit.
Anyone have a wealth of experience with Rollei RPX 400? I got a few rolls because Tri-X jumped up in price but noticed it has a pretty long development time in Rodinal according to Rollei and devchart. I'm seeing some conflicting information online about it though.
Considering stand dev to get it out of the way.
>>2811167
cool, i was checking my Electro GS last night. got it last year, never put a single roll on it, but now i got curious. put a stack of 4X LR44 with scotch tape and a spring to make the positive end touch the battery cover. looks like quite the fashion accessory. will test its hipster powers on the street and will report back.
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>>2811417
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>>2811418
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Best EOS film camera sub $50? Would like to use my EF lenses.
>>2811489
Any of them?
Really only the 3 and 1V cost more than $50, so get any.
>>2811425
Maannnn, the warmth of the wood contrasts so nicely with all of the cool blues. Ace shot. Polaroid?
>>2811597
Velvia 100 shot on a RZ67
>>2811489
I have the EOS 500
Its as good as any I supose
Kodak Ultramax 400 on Nikon FM, Nikkor-S auto f1.4
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>>2811604
muh blue board
>>2811598
Shit, I might buy me a 5 pack of that this weekend.
>>2811607
Be warned of the roll alot of it turned out shit i dont quite understand how to use it alot of it was awful
Hi guys, just processed by a lab my firsts rolls using a Minolta X-300 (w/ Kodak Ultramax 400 and XP2), and the results are just fucking awful : this is grain city all around.
The images are unusable.
At first I was pretty surprised because I had previously no problem with the render of this film (used on several bodies).
Question is, for this test roll I used the x300 on Aperture Priority Mode (auto shutter speed), so is it possible that the light mettering system fucked the exposure and underexposed all the shots with a too fast shutter speed ? (leading on all this grain).
Can I solve this issue by pulling the film at ISO200 to overexpose by 1 stop ?
Or should I ignore the inbuilt light metter and use manual settings ?
Thanks guys.
Pic related.
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>>2811608
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Some recent Ilford HP5
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>>2811613
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>>2811615
if you don't open it, you might not even notice the missed focus!
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>>2811616
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>>2811617
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>>2811609
Please see OP with reference to Menelta.
>gay
It had a gay attraction to your films and fucked them.
They are felms now.
>>2811609
Buy some real black and white film and try again
Do you guys use vuescan to scan your films? What's the setting you use? What about multiple scans?
>>2811609
If you want troubleshooting help, post a picture of a few of your negative strips held up to the light.
If you've used these films on several bodies, you should have some idea what constitutes a well exposed negative and an underexposed negative.
Are these entire rolls underexposed? Or just a few frames?
In your sample pic you have what appears to be a sunlit white sign in the center of the frame. You are using a camera with center weighted averaging metering. If you did nothing to correct this, the shot will be underexposed. See that button on the front of your camera below the shutter release? That's the auto exposure lock. Pan your camera to where the white sign is not in the frame, and more into the shade in this case, with your middle finger hold down the ael button, recompose/focus and press shutter button.
If you wish to check the cameras meter, take a camera with known good metering, point it at a completely white wall and get a meter reading. Point the suspect camera at the same wall with the same light with the same ASA and same aperature and they should match.
I have seen Minoltas of this era get dirty electrical wipers on the ASA dial. Again aim at white wall, very slowly rotate ASA dial. Meter reading should change smoothly. If the reading starts jumping all over the place, you need to clean the wipers.
Good luck.
First film I've shot since 2008
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the colours came back shit so I've b/w'd most of it
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Is the Minolta X-300 shutter completely electronic? I found one, batteries are definitely dead. I have heard some conflicting things. I can't advance the film. Obviously I don't have any film inside and I also don't want to apply too much pressure.
>>2811660
Nevermind, with the batteries it works. I noticed there is a small sheet of plastic in the lens mount that's completely bend out of shape and torn at one point like it was pushed in by a wrongly attached lens. is this a necessary part to keep light from getting in?
>>2810969
Clean them in a bath with water and photo-flo then hang them up somewhere humid
>>2810969
Rocket blower and Pec-Pads. But prevention works a lot better, hang them up to dry somewhere that isn't too dusty and then cut and sleeve the negatives as soon as they're dry.
So I didn't really get an answer last thread, maybe I'll put a little more detail
I'm looking for a new lens for my Ricoh KR-5 Super, it uses a Pentax K Mount.
I usually shoot landscape and stuff, travel photography type of shit you know? I have a 50mm right now but I would like a 35mm for a wider FOV. Not looking for anything that is more than twice the body (got it for $20, so it's unrealistic to find something under 20).
tl;dr looking for a k mount 35mm lens for landscape that is sub $40
What is this thing floating in my positive developer? Is it a silver precipitate?
Pic is Ilford Multigrade 1+14 that hasn't been used for three weeks. I usually mix 0.5 L of previously used solution with 0.5 L of freshly prepared one, but with such a large amount of sediment I'm wondering if I should just prepare a completely new one, or if I should run it through filter paper first.
>>2811831
I'm not sure but also
>not keeping your chemicals in dark amber/brown glass bottles to stop degradation from the light
Did it get unusually cold wherever you keep your chemicals to cause precipitation?
>>2811834
I kept it in a fridge. 8°C / 46°F
>>2811657
very nice. what film, etc?
>>2811654
ive heard many times it helps to walk away from something for a while. i think this image is much stronger without the wall on the right.
Is there anything I should or can do with my c41 processed film after the stabilizer?
Want to try some pastel tones like this: https://www.instagram.com/_nguan_/
Apparently Portra 400 or 400H is good for this, overxposed by a couple of stops. Have any of you guys done it and how'd you like it? All examples I saw were MF too, could this work with 35mm?
>>2811862
No, this is impossible with 35mm.
>>2811862
You're on the right track with overexposing kodak film. Portra or Ektar would get you somewhere close but their is colour shifting in this that you couldn't reliably do with film, not stock, not heat treated or expired.
I'd argue would be better off with a 35mm size digital sensor if you want stuff that looks like that
>>2811862
any negative film will work
just lighten it afterwards
there is no such thing as a 'true' look for a particular film so don't worry that you're corrupting it somehow
>>2811831
Seems that the precipitate has dissolved after I heated it up to room temperature.
Also, r8 my "darkroom."
>>2811870
In-law kitchen in the basement?
>>2811654
>First film I've shot since 2008
YOURE THE TRUEST DEGENERATE
>>2811868
>there is no such thing as a 'true' look for a particular film
lolretard.
>>2811872
My own kitchen. That room used to be a genuine 15th century smoke kitchen so it's quite dark and light sealing it is as easy as pulling the curtain.
>>2811870
>opemus enlarger
>heavy, arched old town-style brickwork house interior
>misshapen Willie Trombone figurine
You're not that Czech guy by any chance, are you?
>>2811887
Cutting retort
>>2811826
Just ante up and buy the 31mm Limited niqqa.
It will continue to be rare and elusive well into the future, and thus retain its value for resale.
Or, you know, buy another camera that comes with a 35mm, maybe in a system that has better support for that focal length (Canon, Nikon).
Real cameras are so small and light, I usually find it easier to dual wield than switch lenses.
>>2811841
Out of date Kodacolor 36 exp @ ISO 200
Olympus OM-10 w/ zuiko 50mm 1.8
Heavy use of lightroom to sort the colours out
>>2811842
I couldn't get any further away, granada's streets are very tight
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>>2811914
Yes, that's me. Nice to see that someone remembers me.
>>2811926
Is it just me, or is the OM 50/1.8 like *really* good for a kit 50mm?
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>>2811932
I got my particular one for free because it's chipped, fungal and full of dust, and it still takes decent pictures.
>>2811616
are you gonna reshoot this?
probably the one with the most potential.
Speaking of the OM-10, can anyone explain what this is? It's the curtain when the camera is primed to shoot. It looks like a QR code but the camera was made a couple of decades before QR codes, so I'm utteraly confused. Metering?
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>>2811944
Yep, that's your metering pattern.
The battery powered OM cameras meter off the film plane, that's why they're better.
The meter in the viewfinder is actually just an approximation, the real reading is taken when the mirror flips up.
Found a Contax T2 38mm f2.8, with data back and original box. $400 - worth it?
>>2811947
Ah, I thought it was actually off the film surface as the curtain isn't actually the film plane.
>>2811944
>>2811947
Here we go, scraped from dpreview forums.
OldDigiman wrote:
In fact, in the OM-series, for this reason, the ambient OTF
exposures were actually read off of the first shutter curtain,
which had a back and white random pattern that I expect averaged to
a 19% gray. Thus, the exposure was calculated in the instant
between the mirror flipping up and the first shutter starting to
move.
Close, but not quite 100% correct. The exposure circuit is a simple analogue integrator that accepts as input the light being reflected off the film/curtain. The integration begins the instant the first curtain is released. Once the integrator has captured enough light it releases the second curtain. For exposures above 1/60 of a second a percentage of the light is always reflected from the curtain since the shutter is never fully open. At 1/1000 most of the exposure is calcualted off the curtain. At just above 1/60 most of it is from the film. The exposure is never calculated before the shutter opens. In fact, even in manual mode the integration still takes place. The only difference is that the integrator input comes from a set of fixed value resistors and not the incoming light.
With flash, however, the OTF exposure was actually off of the film
(for obvious reasons).
True, because flash sync is less than 1/60.
-mark
>>2811953
Oh, that's pretty cool. So I guess that means that in auto mode, the shutter speed isn't selected from a range, but actually 'perfectly' exposed? Nice (not like it matters when the developer fucks it up lmoa)
>>2811955
Pretty much.
This is also why these Oly's are great for metered long exposures.
The Pentacks LX works in a similar fashion, but is a much more expensive camera, and only wears pentacks glass.
>>2811957
I'll have to take it out for some night shots, then. What's the best film to use for night stuff? Does it massively matter?
>>2811953
The Nikon FA does basically the same thing, I believe. If the lens unexpectedly stops down to an incorrect aperture or fails to stop down then the shutter speed adjusts to compensate. And within a certain range of shutter speeds it'll choose the perfect shutter speed down so some tiny fraction of a stop.
The FA was such a great little underrated high tech camera, its matrix meter works so well.
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>>2811959
Colour film. Night time black and white can be a bit dull.
Just find a film you like, and make sure you google the reciprocity factors for them.
A kitchen renovation has left me with more space. I want to buy an enlarger to start making prints. I already process B/W at home and my kitchen is a darkroom already.
I shoot mainly 135 and 120 (6x4.5 and 6x6).
If I wanted to do colour prints as well, how much should I be looking at spending on an enlarger/lens? Am I right in thinking that by buying an enlarger that handles 6x6 colour negatives that I'm futureproofing myself if that's the largest negative I intend to print?
My biggest problem so far has been trying to find somewhere online that delivers, there are a few places, but I don't want to buy something I'll outgrow almost immediately.
>>2811964
I have a couple of night time shots I took in 2008 on my home PC, it was quite fun even with it resting on a car and me holding it in manually in bulb mode. Shame I live in a city for university, since I reckon it'd be decent for a couple of astro shots. I'll try and get some architecture though, should be fun.
>>2811969
look around on Craigslist for free ones. University here dumped a dozen large color enlargers a few years ago. Others will probably be doing similarly if they haven't already.
>>2811969
analog color prints in this day and age is dumb. with black and white, you can choose between tons os great quality fiber papers, developers and toners to get great, unique results. the only type of ra4 papers left are the generic kind used in minilabs, they aren't archival and have shitty dmax. you can't even use a safelight when processing the prints. if you want color photos, I'd suggest investing in a decent inkjet printer. just scan your film and print it digitally
>>2811975
I've been playing the gumtree/craigslist/freecycle game for about 4-5 months now. Only one item came up and it was gone immediately. Local ones for sale cost the same as buying one online and the only benefit is I can have it the same day.
>>2811976
I'll stick to B/W then.
Would I be able to print C41 on a monochrome enlarger if I used a filter/gel or is that completely out?
I think I'll take a chance with a Durst M601 then and hope for the best. At the end of the day, it costs less than a course at my local uni to use their darkroom (local college no longer provides a darkroom course)
>>2811993
Colour enlargers are best enlargers anyway, at least as far as ease of use goes.
Colour heads are all diffusion types, so you don't need to clean and align condensers, and filtration for contrast is built in; you don't need to buy seperate filters.
>>2811949
Yeah id buy it i love mine
>>2812040
Got anywhere I can see some snaps youve taken w it?
>>2811949
Holy shit are you actually retarded?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Fuji-GW690-III-6x9-Professional-EBC-Fujinon-90mm-F-3-5-Fuji-Photo-Film-Japan-/331825766617
>>2811949
http://www.ebay.com/itm/1236-Contax-Carl-Zeiss-Tessar-T-45mm-F2-8-MMJ-F-2-0-8-0-MF-Lens-/201552401434?hash=item2eed75941a:g:hQcAAOSwBahVZyvR
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Contax-Aria-35mm-SLR-Camera-Body-w-Neck-strap-C628-/222079050471?hash=item33b4f162e7:g:iqEAAOSwwpdW9zD~
>>2811949
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Fuji-Fujifilm-GA645-Professional-6X4-5-Medium-Format-Camera-60mm-f4-Lens-/222080351888?hash=item33b5053e90:g:JHgAAOSwwpdW2RM2
>>2811949
http://www.ebay.com/itm/CONTAX-G1-35mm-SLR-with-CONTAX-CARL-ZEISS-PLANAR-45mm-F-2-FROM-JAPAN-1328-1-/301914640447?hash=item464b83d03f:g:7UcAAOSwyjBW4Q0x
Dusty snapshit.
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>>2812129
Oh for fucks sake, can you stop spamming the board with your multiformat snapshits of this pasty frumpy midget?
>>2812132
>Stop posting photos on a photo board! It reminds me of the fact that I never take photos!
>>2812129
>i scanned it with a potato because it reminded me of her shapeless mashed potato body
>>2812136
>stop asking me to take more photos instead of posting the same set over and over again so I feel like Ive done something
not the other anon btw
>>2812137
I scanned it shittily because I didn't care.
>>2812138
lol nah this fuck just thinks it makes you a cool anon to get angry at trips. you too desu
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>>2812144
>life
Nice one! But nah I've just been slowly working through all the different shots from that shoot.
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>>2812141
you will be the most fun trip to destroy
so reactionary
>>2812157
>you will be the most fun trip to destroy
I bet your tumblr blog title is "welcome to my twisted mind" too
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>>2811940
probably some day, it's in another country though
>>2812256
I like it.
Anyone have any experience shooting Superia 1600 under artificial lighting? I shot a few rolls at 640 (I've been told that Superia 800 and 1600 is actually the exact same emulsion with different DX-coding, but I haven't been able to verify this).
Especially with red lighting, it picked up some heavy fuckyness in OOF areas. Do you think this could be avoided in any way in the future?
It would be cool to be able to shoot color film at night without a flash.
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>>2812339
same roll, different light temperature
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>>2811932
It's good for real. I'm actually selling my OM 50mm f1.4 because the f1.8 is good enough and actually a bit sharper, and I don't need the extra speed. I really like the 28mm f3.5 that's super cheap too.
I have an OM-10 too that's my dad's old camera. I've not really used it ever though, as I got an OM-40 at the same time (my mom's old camera) and then bought an OM-1.
If I was to spend about €200 max on a MF camera for some summer film shots, what would be my best bet? I already have an ok TLR (Yashica D) that I don't really enjoy shooting because of the ergonomics. I would love a Pentax 6x7 but AFAIK it'll be over the budget? Would prefer something hand holdable, so not super heavy and tripod requiring. 35mm equivalent (or wider) FOV would be perfect, but I can deal with 50mm. Or do I just sit tight until I find a 6x7 for a bargain?
what film is this?
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Would you recommend the XA or the XA 2 for a first film camera ?
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>>2812485
Definitely the XA over the XA2. But the XA is a great camera, and very cheap.
>>2812475
ISO 400 film senpai
>>2812394
The Pentax is definitely the God of 6x7 cams, but it comes at a price. If you really want it, and you see yourself making long time use of it, save up and get it. If you just want a mf camera to experiment with, get a mamiya TLR, or maybe one of the Fuji 645 cams.
Looks like my mirror locked up. Lever winds only halfway and the shutter doesn't work. What's the solution? It seems like I have to remove the bottom plate and then make something unstuck.
>>2812551
I had that before. I just smacked my camera real hard (like you'd smack an older TV/VCR).
>>2810765
What kind of Canon is that one on the right?
>>2812618
It's a T70.
The theme of this OP image was "gross plasti-cam love".
>the t70 is really fucking awful though, I never use it
>>2812578
I just fixed it. I removed the bottom place and there was something in the way of the mechanism, so I pushed it out of the way and it's working now.
But there's still another issue that doesn't get a lot of attention: the film exposure counter is busted. It's past 36 and there's a little lever thing on the inside that I would assume is for it. When I push it, it doesn't work. Is there any solution that doesn't involve too much tinkering? Because otherwise, I might as well bring it to a shop.
Are light meters worth it for cameras that have broken metering systems? I know I can use my phone and some metering app, but I've considered getting one of those vintage ones to estimate what exposure I should use.
>>2810969
burn them.
works 99% of the time.
>>2810987
the orange base allows more color adjustment capabilities when you print optically.
>>2810998
you can set your white balance against the film rebate so it appears completely clear with no colour tint when negative.
your camera's colour response will be responsible for what's left.
>>2811826
basically for slr mounts besides canon and nikon you'll be hard pressed to find camera manufacturer lenses that aren't 50mm or shitty zooms that are cheap.
could go with third party lenses but the older ones are hit and miss.
>>2811844
dry it.
>>2811969
I'd pick up one locally, preferably 6x6 or a larger medium format enlarger. cheap enlarger lenses are more than good enough if you dont print large.
check local charity shops as well.
something like a roganar, rodagon, companar, componon, componon-s would be about right, you want 70-90 for medium format and a 40-50 for 35mm.
even if you do move to a larger format in the future, you won't outgrow it per se, unless you stop shooting smaller formats all together. my 5x7 enlarger would be quite terrible for printing 35mm with....
you can print C-41 on a monochrome enlarger with gels, but it's a pain in the ass, colour heads work just as well on black and white, and there's no point not getting one unless you want a condenser head.
>>2811976
you can get endura and endura metallic in bulk rolls from kodak and fuji dp2 also in bulk rolls. they're professional high quality papers, make an internegative if you want to change contrast.
and you can use low pressure sodium vapour lights for colour paper as long as it's not too close and is dim. could also get a bank of IR lights and a pair of IR nightvision goggles.
>>2812506
Mamiya 7 is the god of 6x7
pentax is the fucking asshole of 6x7 cameras, big heavy ugly with massive mirror slap, unless you need long fast lenses, in which case it's meh.
>>2812628
you can get those weston light meter's quite inexpensively, they look.... pretty decent and work fairly well.
>>2812669
The Mamiya 7 is an amazing cam but way too expensive and it's honestly niche. The Pentacks is relatively inexpensive, easy to find, and will never stop. I'd say the IQ is comparable so really it comes down to how much you're willing to carry vs. how much you're willing to spend.
Also, i prefer the 6 to the 7.
>Mamiya 6
>collapsible mount
>no need to rotate camera
>multi format capability
>>2812677
Well, the subject was 6x7
Also the 6's "multi-format" feature is an embarrassment.
>>2812677
a mamiya 7 (I) costs about the same as a Pentax 67II
The mamiya 7 lenses blow pentax out of the water in everything but speed, variety and min focus.
but you are right that it depends on how much you're willing to spend. but I will say my mamiya 7II was worth every penny. I'm not a fan of the 6 as much as hasselblads really aren't that large relative to the giants that inhabit 6x7.
>>2812129
I think it's unfair of other posters to call you friend ugly.
Although I finally figured out why she looks small. She has a giant head. It's so large in proportion to her body that it makes her look tiny.
>>2812747
she's not my friend or anything, she just answered a facebook ad for models. She is pretty short though, and a little awkward. This was my first "photoshoot" with someone who wasn't a friend of mine and obviously there were lessons learned.
>>2812747
I don't think it's just her head, her whole body is a bit proportionally weird...
Canon A-1 as good as AE-1? I've got a chance to grab an A-1 for a good price
What kind of measures should i take with developed film rolls in plane trips?
Can i carry them with me or they NEED to xray the rolls?
>>2813200
Put them all in a ziplock bag, and ask that the TSA attendant please hand check the film, as to not ruin it through the scanners.
However, film slower than ISO 800 shouldn't be affected by a couple of passes, and I've had a few rolls of Portra 400 go through no less than 10 scans (busy airports where I didn't want to hold up the line or be a bother) without any issue in the final photos.
>>2812660
well yeah obviously, but is there anything else I can do? Some wetting agent or something?
>>2812659
>basically for slr mounts besides canon and nikon you'll be hard pressed to find camera manufacturer lenses that aren't 50mm or shitty zooms that are cheap.
Confirmed for never owning a Contax or Yashica SLR.
>>2812785
They're really very similar. Just grab the A-1 if you really can't find a cheap AE-1/p for almost the same price.
is ebay the best place to buy a film camera online?
>>2813253
Yes and no.
>>2813253
check craigslist too (or the local equivalent)
>>2813253
KEH.com all day every day.
Any recommended flatbed scanners?
>>2813253
K E H
E
H
https://www.keh.com/
>>2813265
For what.
>>2813271
scanning film? (35mm)
>>2813272
For what? Print? Web display? High volume? selling prints/files to clients? Just for a hobby you shoot two rolls a year?
>Any recommended cars?
>>2813272
Don't use a flatbed for 35mm, flatbeds are shit. Get a plustek, they're pretty cheap and work a lot better than a flatbed. DSLR scanning works too if you're severely autistic and want to spend more time scanning than actually photographing.
>>2813257
>>2813259
>>2813260
>>2813269
Unfortunately craigslist doesn't have anything great right now. Never really used eBay before but I just lost at it.
Found a Minolta X-700 (the one recommended by beginners by a website in the pseudo sticky) but it doesn't come with a lens.
Do you guys have suggestions on where to buy a regular ol' 35mm lens? Not looking for anything super fancy.
Thanks!
>>2813278
http://plustek.com/oeu/products/opticfilm-series/opticfilm-8100/
>>2813278
If you're doing black and white then the IR dust removal stuff will be useless to you so just get the cheapest one. If you're doing color then you may want one of the more expensive models. I don't remember the exact model names offhand.
Also the older models are exactly the same hardware as the current models, they just come packaged with older software so you could really buy a used older model for cheap and pirate whatever software you want.
I guess it's worth noting however that the plusteks can only do 35mm unless you buy the much more expensive 120 film scanner. If you ever decide to try out medium or large format you'll need a new scanner. Most flatbeds can do medium and maybe even large format, but will give worse results for 35mm.
>>2813278
The only actually useful thing you get from more expensive plusteks is scanning speed at high resolutions, the IR dust removal is worthless, it doubles or triples your scan cycle time, works only part of the time and usually does shit ugly job so you might as well clone stamp anyway. So just get the cheapest one. Don't buy used ones unless you get the warranty papers and receipt, I got one and it died after some months (started making streaks on scans), repairing without warranty would have cost as much as buying a brand new one.
>>2813281
ebay is great. Minolta was such a ubiquitous camera back in the day that a quick check of a local salvation army or antique story will bound to have some Minolta lenses.
The x-700 is a great camera, even if shooting on Menelta makes you a faggot. You're a pretty good faggot if you use the x-700. Stay away from the Maxxums. Those make you a pretty bad faggot. Have fun.
>>2813291
>it doubles or triples your scan cycle time, works only part of the time and usually does shit ugly job so you might as well clone stamp anyway.
wew lad. Don't tell people the truth. They'll attack you.
ICE is shit, pure and simple, In the extra time it takes to scan an image or the quality lost by using ICE you could juse use photoshop and fix the image if you're not completely devoid of talent.
I do wish I'd bought plustek instead of a flatbed tho, but I guess it's useful for MF film at least.
>>2812667
I'd been checking around local places regularly but nowhere had anything larger than 135. I was going to go for a Durst 601 but found another MF 6x6 for a lot cheaper that was just lised the next day. It's got two lenses and It looks as tho I can make my own pano mask for 135 film too.
I don't mind using gels to print C41, It's something else for me to do and It'll help with my huge amount of cheap C41 sitting in my fridge and freezer.
>>2813517
I have an x-700 that I use and like. But unless you really need "P" mode, the x-570 is the better camera. If you've ever used both of them, you'd choose the x-570 every time. Reason is, the way the meter works. In manual mode, the 570 shows both the selected and the recommended shutter speed in the finder. The 700 only shows the recommended, so you have to look at the dial to see where you are at.
As far as Maxxums go, I agree that quite a few of them are junk. But the Maxxum 7 is fucking GOD tier. Try it once, you won't be disappointed.
>>2813201
>However, film slower than ISO 800 shouldn't be affected by a couple of passes, and I've had a few rolls of Portra 400 go through no less than 10 scans (busy airports where I didn't want to hold up the line or be a bother) without any issue in the final photos.
Any number of scans negatively affects the film and raises the base fog a little. Lower ISO film needs more to be obviously affected (if we say that film needs to be 1600 to be clearly affected by one scan, then 800 should have the same level of fogging after 2 scans, 400 after 4 scans, and so on). However since negative film has so much latitude, it can sustain a lot of this abuse without issues becoming noticeable.
How much of a step up from 35mm is a Mamiya 645? I've been reading up about all the different Medium format sizes and it seems that 6x4.5 is the smallest. Would I notice a difference in my scans?
>>2813652
yes, you will. It's about 4x as much surface area.
>>2813666
3 times, but heyyyyyyy. Still pretty big.
>>2813281
ebay.
Are expired films worth it?
I order 20 rolls of Kodacolor 200 for $1 per roll just for practicing.
Is it worth it to shoot expired film? Poorfag as well so its my only option.
I've been shooting SLRs until recently I wanted to try using a rangefinder.
Minolta Hi-Matic 7S or Yashica Electro 35?
>>2813705
Definitely depends on the emulsion, not sure about Kodacolor but in general it wouldn't look the same way it did back then.
For framing practice? Sure
For exposure/composition/etc practice? Not really.
>>2813725
>For exposure/composition/etc practice? Not really.
Care to tell why it isn't good for composition practice?
>>2813703
Sigma Art.
>>2813732
http://lmgtfy.com/?q=expired+film
If you just look at the images, you'll see why. It doesn't exactly show up the way you think it will.
>>2813705
I almost only shoot expired film, at least in colour.
Fresh colour film is just too damned expensive, especially once you consider the cost of dev.
That said, if I was taking photos in any capacity more serious than simply snapshitting for my own enjoyment, I would definitely buy new stuff.
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>>2813705
I buy lot's of expired film, especially emulsions thar aren't made anymore (ektachrome, rsx and other agfa films, etc). If it's been freezer stored, it can look completely normal even if it is ~10 years past expiry date.
For example, i shot some ektachrome 100 from 1998 last year, didn't adjust exposure in any major way, and the chromes came out perfectly fine. Only in certain specific light conditions could you notice a slight magneta cast (iirc), but broad daylight you couldn't really make out a difference between it and the much fresher Velvia I was also shooting (other than them being different emulsions, of course).
>>2813785
>I buy lot's of expired film, especially emulsions thar aren't made anymore (ektachrome, rsx and other agfa films, etc). If it's been freezer stored, it can look completely normal even if it is ~10 years past expiry date.
Does refrigerating your films improves its quality? I mean the films I have bought are not stored in a refrigerator so I believe putting them on the fridge won't matter anymore.
>>2813758
>I almost only shoot expired film, at least in colour.
Are you also the one who posted flower photos on the "Went to Ja/p/an..." thread? I believe your scans are good not to mention they are good photos as well.
I never thought they were shot on expired film. All the films I shot with expired film are shit. Is it because of the scanning process? Or I didn't edit them anymore after the lab gave me the CD?
I'm also thinking of getting a 100mm macro lens like the Tokina but they cost far too much $380+.
>>2813825
Yep.
Not everything in that thread is expired film, but lots of it is.
It's important to overexpose colour negs by at least a stop if they're quite expired, and slides by a third to half a stop.
Then you need to take control of the scanning process and get as much colour information out of the frame as you can.
And then you need to be able to do colour correction.
When you think about the structure of colour film, it's actually several films sandwiched together, and each picks up a different colour.
When it's expired, they stop responding in sync with one another, so your job in post is to put them back in order as best you can.
>>2813822
If you buy it new and it's been kept cool for its whole life, it slows the ageing process. If it's been turned to shit by sitting in someone's hot garage for 10 years, putting it in the fridge won't do anything to fix it, but it might... keep it from getting worse? I guess? For most people it's just a habit to keep your film in the fridge. That's where the film goes.
I recently bought a k1000 and it has a fair bit of fungus growing inside the viewfinder. How much does it cost to get this cleaned?
>>2813830
>It's important to overexpose colour negs by at least a stop if they're quite expired, and slides by a third to half a stop.
The films I bought were expired last 2010-2012. Should I overexposed still?
Also some of the expired films are ISO 100. That means they I set the camera at ISO 50. Can I still shoot anything with that ISO? Man I love shooting at dawn and dusk and I feel with that ISO I can only shoot during sunny days.
With color correction do you have ColorPerfect? Or do I just need to improve my PhotoShop and Lightroom skills?
>>2813517
I shot an srt-102 and I love how it handles. Am I a massive faggot or just a mild fag?
>>2813705
It's worth imho but practicing on expired film is not the best idea. How would you know if you fucked up the exposure if its just the film acting up.
>>2813946
Probably way more than just buying another K1000, they're dirt cheap. Why did you buy a camera with fungus in it? Return that shit or throw it away before all your stuff gets infected.
>>2813707
Canonet17qlII.
Not dissing the other two but I absolutely love that camera, never leave home without it.
>>2813998
Didn't think much of it. everything else looked perfectly fine and the problem is solely in the viewfinder.
Anyone live in Los Angeles and know the best place to buy 35mm film?
A question on developing.
I own an stainless steel tank instead of the more common plastic Paterson tanks.
However the chemicals I bought (Compard Digibase C-41) specify in the instruction manual that I should do agitations.
I know from all the tutorials I've watched and read that use the Paterson tank, that when agitating, they mean spinning the twirling stick, which my steel tank doesn't include.
Is there any other agitation method that suits my tank and doesn't need the use of one of those spinning sticks?
>>2814130
For steel tanks, some people just put a band of electrical tape around the seam between the lid and the tank, and do their flips and turns normally. Be sure to do it over a sink or something because it's still going to drip and leak.
>>2814091
Simon's Camera or Samy's camera.
I just mixed up a batch of D-76 and Kodak fixer. Usually after mixing I'll wait a full day before developing but I'm wondering if that's really necessary. How soon after mixing can I use it?
>>2814147
As long as all of the chemicals are dissolved, and it's not still at 50 degrees, right now you moron.
>>2814158
>Asks normal question in thread created for that type of questions
>Get's super dickheaded resonse.
>>2814160
Get used to it. Not saying I agree with it, but it's the way it is on /p/. At least he didn't tell you to dump all of your chemicals down the sink and then proceed to die in a fire.
>>2813963
>The films I bought were expired last 2010-2012. Should I overexposed still?
That really depends on how they were stored.
I've shot film expired in 2011 stored in a fridge at box speed and had almost no shift.
i've shot film expired in 2012 that was left on a shelf and had underwhelming results.
>Also some of the expired films are ISO 100. That means they I set the camera at ISO 50. Can I still shoot anything with that ISO? Man I love shooting at dawn and dusk and I feel with that ISO I can only shoot during sunny days.
It really depends on your light and your setup.
>>2814130
I still flip my paterson. You can flip a steel tank too if your lid isn't bad. I find my steel tank leaks less than my paterson (which is a piece of shit that has it's own dedicated towel)
>>2814160
Once it's dissolved, why would it matter how long you have to wait if it's already cooled down?
>>2814198
I read somewhere that It's not done with settling or something unless you let it sit for a day. Now that I'm thinking about it that makes no sense.
>>2814200
Better yet, get yourself a bottle of generic hc110 from freestyle and mix as needed, save money and enjoy great results.
>>2814216
I've been wanting to mess around with HC-110 and other concentrates. I've used Ilfosol 3 and HP5+ but the results weren't that great and neither was shelf life. How is the performance of HC-110 and the shelf life?
>>2814226
Opened this bottle at least a year and a half ago. It sits in the daylight, room temp, with all of that air in the bottle. I don't notice any difference in its effectiveness. I've been happy with its performance, though I'm not as anal as some of the fags on this board.
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>>2814230
Is there a difference between the real Kodak HT-110 and this generic one?
>>2814232
Performance wise I can't answer, though everything I have read said they are the same. Biggest difference is the genuine stuff is a syrup, and this stuff has the viscosity of water.
>>2814234
Sounds good. I think after I finish up this gallon of D-76 I'll pick up some L110. I might look into rodinal too because I've heard that gives great results too.
>>2814247
In case you haven't seen it, this http://www.covingtoninnovations.com/hc110/ is a good read.
https://www.keh.com/shop/pentax-me-super-chrome-35mm-camera-body.html
Has anyone tried this camera? I'm thinking about replacing my camera because my light meter doesn't work.
>>2814364
>https://www.keh.com/shop/pentax-me-super-chrome-35mm-camera-body.html
They are sexy cameras with nice viewfinders.
However, they also have a slappy mirror, and the button based implementation of manual mode is terrible to use.
Mine also stopped advancing the film while cocking the shutter on the last roll I put through it, so now I use the Ricoh in the OP image for my K-mount needs.
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>>2814139
>>2814198
Luckily there's no problem about leaks with mine. It's got a very tight pvc cap, almost too hard to remove sometimes.
I checked on apug to see if there was more information on the agitation process, and some people said they would do vigorous slides over a table in an eight shape motion, others would just roll the tank over a surface, while also doing inversions when needed.
So I take doing inversions (flips and turns as the other anon said) shouldn't be a problem, just like developing black and white that you can just do with inversions only.
Maybe I've got too paranoid since it's the first roll I'm about to develop. I'll post the results when I get them developed.
>>2814393
>slappy mirror
What do you mean? I have a ME Super and I haven't noticed that.
>>2814489
ME series don't have much in the way of dampening mechanism in that tiny body, and the body itself is light, so the mirror slap is pretty noticeable if you're used to bigger cameras. Not really an issue except at low speeds.
>>2814476
>Maybe I've got too paranoid
you definitely are bb.
remember, all you're doing is ensuring fresh developer circulates over the surface of your films, not performing witchcraft.
>>2814364
The ME Super is now my main 35mm camera, because it's so comfy.
I'll handhold down to 1/8 with a 28mm and 1/15 with a 50mm and have had little trouble with camera shake.
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i use a film slr with split prism focusing and a 28mm lens, the furthest focal point is 3 meters and then infinity.
when focusing on things about 5-7 meters away split prism shows a connected image somewhere between infinity and 3 meters, should i take a photo on infinity regardless or when it looks good in the viewfinder?
Hey, i'm fairly new to photography and I've been wanting to start with SLR cameras for a while now. I found two different cameras (Canon FX 35mm and the Praktica MTL3 35mm) and i was wondering if someone could tell me which one is a better camera in general. Oh and also the Praktica comes with 2 lenses (a Helios Auto Wide Angle 1:2.8 f=35mm and a Hanimar Automatic 1:2.8 f=135mm) however the canon does not come with an extra lens.
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>>2815273
Get the Praktica and join the M42 master race.
>>2815255
Yeah, I wasn't knocking it at all, I'm just spoiled with pimp cameras.
I will say another thing I found is that the metering pattern takes in quite a bit of the sky with wide angles, so I sometimes turn the meter down half a stop or so to compensate.
>>2815282
>terrible advice
>Prakticas are total fucking garbage
Projecting much? The MTL is a legendary camera and M42 blows Canon out of the water for affordability, variety and character.
>>2815296
>eah, like the variety of shutter speeds that 1/60 might mean on different bodies? Or the variety of places infinity focus might seem to be, depending on the lens/body combination?
But that's where the fun comes from. Infinity focus is too easy unless you add an element of uncertainty.
took it with my F1, on ektar.
the film fucked up and two exposition i think are on the same frame, i think it looks dope, i like to pay attention to every details, and the colors and texture are cool i think
( i'm just snapshiting be kind )
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>>2812485
XA over XA2, the firs one is a rangefinder and you canset the apperture, the second has zone focusing and no apperture control if i recall correctly
thoughts on this scan or portra 400? The edges look a little bit off to me.
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>>2813822
Think of it like a cup under an open water valve. In this case you can't empty the cup, but you can adjust the rate it is being filled by turning the knob on the valve (eg. freezing the film slows the aging process, because chemistry).
Freezing film is turning that valve to the minimum setting, although you can never close it completely. It's not going to get water out of your almost-filled cup, but it will maximize your time before the cup starts overflowing.
>>2815572
Does refrigerating unexpired film after the moment you bought it preferable? Or just refrigerate it when expiration date is already coming?
>>2815985
Refrigerating or freezing film slows down it's expiration, so if you buy film that's well within date but don't plan on using it for a while lob it in the fridge.
Things like extreme heat will speed up the expiration of film, so it makes sense to keep in a constantly regulated, low temperature environment.
Give the film enough time to come back up to room temperature if you plan to use it
Every single photo posted in this thread has been utter dog shit. Why bother with the expense and effort of film if the results are worse than an iPhone snapshit? Honest question.
sup FGTs my nikon FM recently started having issues, so i'm looking for a new 35mm camera. suggestions for something that fits this:
> $100 - $200
> manual override required
> preferably something with metering
> preferably something i can fit in my pocket, but this isn't required
The Rollei 35S looks decent, but the the meter/scale focusing kills me
shot from my Mamiya 645 attached, shoutouts if you know where its shot
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>>2816015
Do you not want to keep using your Nikon lenses? Get an F3, it's the best camera ever made. FA is pretty great too, it's a bit less solid and mechanically perfect than the F3 but makes up for it by having a matrix meter. There's no need to use a mechanical camera, electronic cameras are way more reliable.
>>2816015
An FM2 with a 50/1.8E?
