How do you usually edit your photos? Do you use any other software than photoshop? Do you have any tips or tricks?! Post them here!
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Camera-Specific Properties: Equipment Make NORITSU KOKI Camera Model QSS-32_33 Camera Software Adobe Photoshop CS3 Macintosh Image-Specific Properties: Image Orientation Top, Left-Hand Horizontal Resolution 72 dpi Vertical Resolution 72 dpi Image Created 2013:07:11 01:20:39 Color Space Information sRGB Image Width 900 Image Height 597
Beginner here.
I tend to just use Lightroom.
Might start trying out Adobe Colour in future.
I'm fine just with ligtroom
I usually dont. When I take photos, it's either they are absolute shit, or I'm happy enough to keep them.
I'm also pretty inept at editing anyways, so I don't think it matters if I were to want to or not, because I cant.
I don't take photos of anything I'm getting paid for, it's just an outlet and fun thing for me, so I'm okay with whatever my camera produces.
Maybe I'll learn soon tho. I would like to be a better photographer.
>>2805355
Lightroom. Photoshop in a few special cases.
>>2805370
photoshop does the exact same + more than lightroom
only photoshop. lightroom has retarded colors.
>import to Lightroom
>fuck with whitebalance
>add contrast
>fuck with highlights/shadows
>move onto fucking with curves
>sharpen or reduce noise
>crop if necessary
>then import to photoshop
>remove any dust/fix minor errors
>fuck around with colours (I always get nicer results here in PS rather than Lightroom not sure why)
>save for web
>upload to /p/
>get told to fuck off and kill myself
>rinse and repeat
Yeah I edit my stuff
I used to use lightroom for most stuff (mainly VSCO) + photoshop for masks and local tweaks, removing something etc.
now I do everything in Capture 1
DxO, Photoshop on my laptop
VSCO, LR, Photoshop Touch (rarely), SKRWT on my phone
1. Shoot Fuji
2. Get it right in camera
3. ???
4. Finished
That's how i do it.
>>2805473
If you're shooting Fuji and you're not taking advantage of those beautiful ISOless 32 megabyte RAW files, you're fucking up.
I use LR for 99% of my stuff. Literally just fuck with the tone curve and then a little slider work.
I take out an exposure brush a lot just to brighten up interesting areas. Auto mask on the brush in LR is really underrated.
If ever I have a portrait that needs cleaning up I'll do that in photoshop but that's the only reason I open up ps
On my Fuji most of the time I just import to my iPad over wifi, edit in VSCO. I shoot with the classic chrome simulation 95% of the time but I often convert that to black and white, boost contrast, crop, add some grain and stuff.
With my GR I only import the raws on an external HDD, choose a couple and edit them in Rawtherapee. I have a preset with hald clut Portra 400 and a preset with pushed TriX that I use most of the time, I just push the curves around a little bit and mess with the white balance if color, crop and export.
Assuming I'm working on digital files, this is what I usually end up doing.
ACR:
wb, fix general under/overexpsure, set black point, fix highlight clipping, lift whites a bit, add contrast to midtones w curves, usually put down the global saturation a bit, adjust individual colors ( luma>hue>sat order), NR and a tiny bit of sharpening, send to PS as smart object. After all the basic stuff I try to make a plan for where I want to go with the pic before I do more stuff.
PS: recompositing various areas of the image to reinforce what I was trying to do in camera, like emphasizing lines, rhythm, balance, contrasts, stories. Usually involves removing objects, enlarging objects, extending the frame, moving shit around, fixing perspective etc. I usually prefer copying a selection of the base layer, moving/stretching/duplicating it and then mask it back in instead of cloning, feels more controllable and more non-destructive.
Then lots of adjustment layers to adjust contrast/brightness/saturation of areas that can't easily be seperated using the color sliders in ACR. Might do some final global adjustments, then resize, sharpen and save.
>>2805361
You can learn Lightroom in more or less a day. Really, it's not that hard.
ACR, pick a favorite film from RNI or one of my own presets, adjust highlights and whites and exposure to squeeze some more brightness in, adjust hsl if a specific color is clipping, send to photoshop, remove little things, maybe contrast adjustment via curves, resize without sharpening, sharpen, and save for web
>>2805578
Finally someone who understands that pushing the button is just the beginning and, no you did not create a perfect picture in the camera.
>>2805355
I shoot raw on Fuji, so:
Import to Lightroom CC
Go through the files and tag which ones are good
Go through the good ones and decide which of them need fantastic fine detail
Those ones go to PhotoNinja and get processed for detail and exposure, and are exported as TIFFs and re-imported into lightroom
Generally convert to the Classic Chrome or Pro Neg Std calibration
Lower contrast by pulling back highlights and raising blacks, then add in mid-tone contrast by raising whites and lowering shadows
Take portraits to photoshop for skin work
Save as PSD
Batch export from Lightroom.
>>2805357
The fucking spot removal on Lightroom is awful on my shitty laptop, I just use the clone tool on photoshop, it performs a lot better
>>2805374
What do you mean with retarded colors? Do the sliders change the image differently than the ones on PS?
>>2805966
No, they don't.
>>2805355
Lightroom, Photoshop, and the Nik suite since I guess that's free now.
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Camera-Specific Properties: Camera Software Adobe Photoshop Lightroom 6.4 (Windows) Image-Specific Properties: Horizontal Resolution 240 dpi Vertical Resolution 240 dpi Image Created 2016:04:01 08:44:26
>>2805968
So, no difference? I'm starting to think those people just fucked up with the color space.
>>2805978
There is nothing inherently different between them, no. It could be camera calibration, color space, etc.
Though I did see someone mention recently that they believe that Lightroom doesn't apply the color space until export, so what you're seeing in the Develop pane may not match your final product? So maybe that's what he's talking about? Not really a "retarded colors" issue though, so I doubt it.
>>2805355
rawtherapee
usually add contrast, lower brightness, add saturation
S-curves
colour curves occasionally
white balance
noise reduction
that's about it
Import to Bridge
Select potential keepers
Open in ACR
Recover clipped highlights if any
Correct black point if necessary
Punch up clarity 35%
Increase vibrance 35%
Save as TIF
Open TIF in PS
Apply Lens Correction filter and set horizon level
Adjust Curve layer
Add 14% saturation in Hue/Saturation layer
Open Levels layer; set white and black points if necessary and slide middle gray to best appearance
Copy Background layer and apply 2%-4% High Pass filter
Save As Document Name-1
Before attached
[EXIF data available. Click here to show/hide.]
Camera-Specific Properties: Equipment Make OLYMPUS CORPORATION Camera Model TG-4 Camera Software Adobe Photoshop CS5 Macintosh Maximum Lens Aperture f/2.8 Color Filter Array Pattern 866 Focal Length (35mm Equiv) 25 mm Image-Specific Properties: Image Width 4608 Image Height 3456 Number of Bits Per Component 8, 8, 8 Pixel Composition RGB Image Orientation Top, Left-Hand Horizontal Resolution 240 dpi Vertical Resolution 240 dpi Image Created 2016:04:02 06:29:47 Exposure Time 1/800 sec F-Number f/2.8 Exposure Program Creative ISO Speed Rating 100 Lens Aperture f/2.8 Exposure Bias 0 EV Metering Mode Pattern Light Source Unknown Flash No Flash, Compulsory Focal Length 4.50 mm Color Space Information Uncalibrated Image Width 2880 Image Height 2160 Rendering Normal Exposure Mode Auto White Balance Auto Scene Capture Type Standard Gain Control None Contrast Normal Saturation High Sharpness Hard GPS Status Measurement Interoperability
>>2806452
After
[EXIF data available. Click here to show/hide.]
Camera-Specific Properties: Equipment Make OLYMPUS CORPORATION Camera Model TG-4 Camera Software Adobe Photoshop CS5 Macintosh Maximum Lens Aperture f/2.8 Color Filter Array Pattern 890 Focal Length (35mm Equiv) 25 mm Image-Specific Properties: Image Width 4608 Image Height 3456 Number of Bits Per Component 16, 16, 16 Compression Scheme Uncompressed Pixel Composition RGB Image Orientation Top, Left-Hand Horizontal Resolution 240 dpi Vertical Resolution 240 dpi Image Data Arrangement Chunky Format Image Created 2016:04:02 06:29:08 Exposure Time 1/800 sec F-Number f/2.8 Exposure Program Creative ISO Speed Rating 100 Lens Aperture f/2.8 Exposure Bias 0 EV Metering Mode Pattern Light Source Unknown Flash No Flash, Compulsory Focal Length 4.50 mm Color Space Information Uncalibrated Image Width 2880 Image Height 2160 Rendering Normal Exposure Mode Auto White Balance Auto Scene Capture Type Standard Gain Control None Contrast Normal Saturation High Sharpness Hard GPS Status Measurement Interoperability
Also will Dodge/Burn or pull a Gradient Mask if necessary
>>2805963
literally 98% of that can be achieved in camera if you set your fuji camera and in camera film simulations up correctly.
>>2806453
Still seems a touch underexposed in my opinion.
>>2806495
And it's too cold; should push the kelvin up a hair or two.
>>2806495
its not exactly a brigh sunny day you rampant mongoloid
>>2806497
>He thinks exposure is the same as natural light.
Fuck off then and continue failing.
>>2806499
>he thinks all photos should be equally brighter
yeah, go to flickr for those sweet HDR landscapes you love you visually illiterate baboon.
>>2805971
is this in arizona?
>>2806497
The exposure is just fine.
>>2805375
kek
>>2805375
>>upload to /p/
>>get told to fuck off and kill myself
>>rinse and repeat
The next step in your evolution, btw, is for you to be ignored by /p/
>open in camera raw
>apply lens correction
>adjust colour temp
>recovery, contrast, backlight, exposure etc
>adjust hue/saturation/colour by colour
>straighten/crop
>open in photoshop
>adjust curves
>adjust levels
>repair/remove shit I don't want
>HD filter pass
>file, save as, jpg lvl 10
