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Basic outdoor picture settings
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Got a Nikon D600 with a Tamron 18-270mm lens and a Nikon SPEEDLIGHT SB-700 and just want to do some simple pictures outside in broad daylight. I also want to do a few others inside, do some portraits (lots of windows and natural light What are some settings I could play with to get a perfect picture?

I just put on auto-focus and stand still.
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>>2799263
>outside in broad daylight
Av mode, f/16

>inside
f/3.5 - f/8 depending on the light and desired depth of field
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ISO 800, 1/1600, f/8
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>>2799263
Also, get a better lens. You can't expect good quality across a range that wide. Get maybe a 18-55ish lens for now, you don't need anything wider or longer. A 50mm prime would also be a good idea.

P.S. 18-270 on a DX (1.5x) crop body is equivalent 27-405 on a 35mm sensor/film, pretty fucking insane if you ask me.
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>>2799274
>>2799272
>>2799270
>thinking you can say anything about triangle settings without knowing the conditions first
Fuck me, you people know literally nothing.

Put this shit in the stupid questions thread OP.
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>>2799280
It's a concrete building and I want to take a pictures with some friends in front of it if that helps. There aren't many colors and no trees/vegetation.
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All I can say to you with: Manual mode and shooting RAW

them, just photography

btw, your lens is 5.6? So shoot at least in f/11
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>>2799282
>implying
sunny 16 for broad daylight. that shit's basic.
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>>2799285
Oh so you're 100% sure he's going to be shooting in broad daylight?

And I love too how sunny 16 addresses using strobes during an unspecified time in the day during which the weather is unknown!

It's also really awesome how it specifically caters to portrait style photography and the considerations for that genre that differ from "let me get a good enough exposure to use".
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>>2799285
Enjoy your diffraction.
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>>2799290
>I just want to do some simple pictures outside in broad daylight
yep, that's what he says.
if the unknown weather happens to not be sunny, then it's not broad daylight. sunny 16 does not apply anymore. Duh.

for OP, since no one explains it nicely for him, sunny 16 is ; ISO 100, shutter at 1/100, and aperture at 1/16. those are basic settings for a sunny day outside, and can be adjusted freely. 100 1/800 f/5.6 will give the exact same exposure.
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>>2799296
literally this desu senpai
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>>2799263

... isn't that a DX lens you are using on your new FX body? Why go out and get a decent camera, nice speedlight and absolutely cheap out on the most important thing - the lens.

I started with a D70 and a 50 1.8D. I can almost be certain that a simple combination like that would be wealths more fun than some shitty 'do all' consumer zoom.

You clearly had the money buying such a pricey camera and a really nice speedlight, why didn't you nix the light and the shit house lens and go for a 24-70 2.8? That shitty zoom is nearly useless at its long end. And to make matters worse your camera will be shooting on only the central portion of the sensor.

Sell that lens please or just do more goddamn research.

>spending thousands of dollars on the wrong gear to do some "simple pictures" when a capable /p/ user could do less with a $200 setup.
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>>2799263
So did you finally nick them from your dad? Didn't we tell you already to read Understanding Exposure?
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>>2799263
So ignoring the asshats...

Forget the flash for most outdoor photography.

You can use that lens though it isn't the best. Better choices are out there, read some blogs about them.

Shooting in broad daylight produces light that most find unflattering. Go to the shaded side of the building and things should be soft and balanced. The D600 has a shade setting on WB use that.

With the lens you have 50-85 mm is probably about right for small groups, 85+ for headshots and single portraits.

ISO should theoretically be as low as possible, but the D600 has good performance at higher ISO, so that isn't a big deal.

If hand held, shutter speed should match focal length or higher. Ie, I'd you are shooting at 60 mm, shutter speed needs to be at least 1/60th of a second, faster is probably better. Don't worry about bumping ISO, camera shake is much worse than noise.

Shoot raw plus jpg, try to edit the raw file, but if you are complete shit at it you can still use the jpg. My D600 shoots a little underexposed according totheinternal meter so I'd err on being a little overexposed.
Read a book or blog on composition, get rid of annoying shit in the background and watch out for a mature mistakes like bad hand positions on your models or if they're doing a weird smile/derp face and you're too worried about nailing focus to notice.

Umm.. Post them when you're done and wear your big boy pants as shitheads will criticize harshly.
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>>2799263
>I just put on auto-focus and stand still.

That ought to work fine. Auto everything.
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>>2799263

>>2799270
>>2799272

Without a clue: The Thread

OP, how about you read ANY god damn basics photography tutorial. Understand the idea of exposure, and the exposure triangle (interaction between iso, shutter speed and f stop).

It's really really really not that hard so use your own brain and fucking do some reading otherwise you're going to be listening to retards like the three anons above..

f /16 kek completely unnecessary unless you're at base ISO and max shutter and STILL over exposing

ISO 800, equally unnecessary. Daylight stick to base iso or near it (100-400)

If you're doing portraiture and you want blurred background thats a function of aperture and focal length. Wider the aperture and/or longer the focal length the more blur you'll get. Equally, by decreasing the distance between you and the model and increasing the distance between the model and background you'll get blur.

Honestly as a newb I'd suggest:

Put camera on auto ISO, put it on auto WB, put it on Aperture priority, and just shoot raw/jpeg.
Thread replies: 17
Thread images: 1

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