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pic unrelated I'm having trouble getting a lot of different
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pic unrelated

I'm having trouble getting a lot of different objects in focus on my 5d , is this because of full frame? Is there anything I can do? I just don't want a shallow depth of field EVERY single shot.

Going up to F/22 with a decent shutter speed requires like 3 suns to be able to see anything unless I'm on ISO 3200.

I would like to be able to take sharp pics of people and backgrounds with at least a decent iso of 600.

Even f/8 blurs the hell out of a background thats 2 feet away from the subject
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look up "circle of confusion"
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>>2785897
I see. So on my camera according to some COC chart it says I need 0.030 to achieve hyperfocal distance? For 35mm at whatever distance that site uses..

Is there any way to estimate this beyond using a calculator or chart every time?
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>>2785912
experience. like metering by eye it's something you learn over time without thinking about it.

The answer to your question is either a wider lens or a smaller aperture. f2.8 on a 28mm has far more in focus than f2.8 on a 75mm, for example. During daytime I shoot my 28mm @ f8 and it's pretty much foolproof
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>>2785912
The quick and dirty hyper focal distance is to focus on about 1/3 into what you want in focus.
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>>2785893
Get a wider lens. Step further away from your subject.
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>>2785915
I'm not really sure what you mean. Could you use an example?
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>>2785926
http://www.digitalcameraworld.com/2014/08/19/hyperfocal-focusing-how-to-calculate-the-best-distance-to-focus-at/

not him, but this will help
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>>2785926
Read this:
http://www.cambridgeincolour.com/tutorials/hyperfocal-distance.htm

The principle is the same for shooting closer items, but remember that the closer you focus, the shallower the depth of field (I think it's actually that the falloff of focus is faster at closer focus, but effectively it's the same thing)...at some point there's basically nothing you can do for a given focal length in camera...optical laws are optical laws yo. Once you max it out you have to start doing things like focus stacking (which is super common in macro shooting).

Depending on what you're shooting you can also use movements but that depends a lot on your subjects (taller subjects don't work well with laying down the focal plane).

http://www.toyoview.com/LargeFrmtTech/lgformat.html
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