I posted up 3 months ago or so and you guys helped a painfully new noob with the basics and since then I've gotten bit pretty good with the photography bug. I've run a couple rolls of black and white through my camera and called up my developer and they don't do black and white anymore, so I called another place, they pointed me to a place in TX, and they pointed me to a place in CA neither of which do it anymore.
I'm sure I could find a place on Google, but if I'm going to send them off, I would rather go to a place that I know others have had good success with them.
I do it in my bathroom, it's very simple and cheap
>>2758847
Real hardcore motherfuckers like me do it themselves, but you could try indie film lab, the darkroom, dwaynes, old school photolab etc
>>2758850
I thought about it too and my local lab fucked my bw film up.
>>2758850
Get the massive dev chart app on your phone, get a second hand Patterson tank and some cheap chemicals. It's ridiculously easy to do.
Because you get the results quicker you will shoot more and learn quicker
Dev and scan on indie film lab is $18, a bottle of hc110 does almost 100 rolls for $25 and allows you to experiment and dev your photos the way you like
>>2758847
You can try to look for someone who develops film themselves and ask them nicely. People usually like to help and teach you stuff.
>>2758847
do it yourself its cheaper and really hard to fuck up.
I took a darkroom class and we all shot a roll and developed it immediately. Most had not used a film camera before. Everyone (who didn't open their film in the light like an idiot) had their film come out fine.
B&W film is extremely forgiving, and even the cheapest online developers are somewhat expensive. It's fine to do a roll or two at the lab, and any of the labs above will give you good results, but you should start deving at soon as you can. If you can rent lab space, that might make you feel more comfortable.
>>2758863
>>2758864
Ill start getting the stuff here in a week or so and give it a shot, but I'd still like to have my first couple rolls of bw developed professionally.
Just a quick list for myself, I'll need:
-Light tight tank
-Stainless reel to go inside
-developer
-stopper
-fixer
Anything else? Any brands to look for or stay away from?
On an unrelated note, The only film I've got is my bw and some Portra 400. I love the film, but the colors are somewhat pastel and whit spring coming up, I'd like to get some film that has really deep colors, what should I look for?
>>2758867
That is one of the .jpg that was sent and I think they were shopped a bit to make the colors pop, the .bmp are much more subdued and more true to the film.
>>2758867
You don't need stopper
>>2758867
You're missing a dark bag (aka "changing bag") for loading film onto the reel and putting the reel into the tank. It's also useful for when you get bit by the bulk-loading bug. There are also plastic tanks, and the reels can be somewhat easier to load -- but this is really a matter of taste.
A couple of bottles for developer and fixer are also a good idea: 0.8l of fixer (Ilford brand, generally) can do fifteen-ish rolls. Developer is usually one-shot (e.g. HC-110 as mentioned ITT, also Rodinal the other favourite) but it's still a good idea to mix it in a bottle.
A chemical mixing tool is also useful, as are measuring cylinders and syringes -- the latter in particular is a necessity for working with (syrupy concentrated) HC-110, but not so much with Rodinal.
>>2758867
I really like provia, especially for medium format. If that's not enough saturation, velvia will make you taste the rainbow
Black and white definitely do it yourself if you can, but then you need to deal with scanning which you can also do yourself if you have the equipment or you can outsource.
If you are not particularly budget conscious, doing color, or just really don't want to develop yourself, a lab I highly recommend is Richard Photo Lab out of CA.
(you can develop color yourself, too, but it's a little more complicated and you should really start with black and white)
doing it yourself is really the only way to go. I bounce between the R3 Monobath and HC110. The enjoyment of doing it yourself is worth it.
>>2758847
Do it in your bathroom you retarded piece of shit cockgobbler. All you need is one of those film bin things, even for medium format. It's so much simpler. Get a darkbag too.
It's hardly "another variable" unless you're subhuman and incapable of following simple directions.
>>2758847
Go out at dawn with six rolls of film.
Walk towards the sunrise, looking for the best shots.
Shoot everything you like the look of, landscapes, street, macro, until you finish the roll.
Load your next roll and smoke a cigarette.
Keep heading towards the sun and following your shots.
When you finish your last roll you should be near a crossroads.
Walk up to the first man you see and give him the first roll you shot that day.
Tell him /p/ sent you.
He will know what to do.
Cheaper, faster, more satisfying and more control over your process by doing it yourself OP.
It's really easy so dont stress. I recommend a clothes pin at the top and bottom (hang vertically) to dry your film. Hit it with Photo Flow before you take it out of the Dev tank and when you hang it just run your fingers on both sides of the film all
the way down.
A lot of people here recommend buying R O D I N A L as a developer.
Note that with the standard dev tank you can do two rolls at the same time!
>>2758881
Not him but I have a roll unused and never used Provia.
Doesnt it come out very cool? What do you rec shooting it for? Isnt it slide film?
>>2758880
cant you re-use chemicals? When do you know its getting too old/used up? Do you just dump your chems each time?
I remember in highschool we all used chems and poured them back into the large jugs when we were done. But that may have been only the stop bath and fixer
>>2758867
- developer (ID11)
- fixer (Ilford Rapid fixer)
- distilled water
- optionally
-- stopper (Ilfostop)
-- wetting agent (Ilfotol)
- film tank (with a plastic reel, they're easier to load, see Jobo or Paterson tanks)
- 1L bottle to prepare to stock developer from the powder (get one that can be collapsed, or get a glass bottle and a vacuum wine preserver)
- a measuring cylinder (250 mL)
- a syringe to measure the stopper and wetting agent
- a few flasks to prepare working solutions of the developer, stopper, fixer and wetting agent (get a few Erlenmeyer flasks from lab acessories, or alternatively use drinking glasses)
- a beaker wide enough to fit the film reel for the final rinse (don't pour the wetting agent inside the tank, you won't get rid of it and have foam everywhere next time you develop)
- a thermometer
- bottle opener (the kind you'd use to open coke bottles)
- a dark room, a.k.a. bathroom
- stopwatch
>>2759430
Awesome thank you.
>>2759541
You don't need a stopper, wetting agent or a thermometer for black and white. Use them if you want but they aren't necessary at all. Just use room temperature water, wash your film under the tap between developing and fixing for a minute or two and at the end add a tiny drop of washing up liquid to about a litre of water and put your film in that as a wetting agent.
>>2758847
never send black and white film to walgreens, walmart, etc they'll develop it like color film and ruin your pictures, i made that mistake and when i got my film back they basically washed the pictures away the developing process
>>2759545
You can also use kitchen scales (at least in europe, scaled in metric) to measure fluids' volume (1ml=1g) or $10 jewlery scales for precise small volumes instead of buying graduated cylinders and just buy bulk sodium thiosulfate to dissolved in boiled water as the fixer - works a bit slower (10min~) but for small scale developing it's ridiculously more economic. 2% vinegar solution as stopper, too. Home dev can be ridiculously cheap and lo-fi when you're not a gearfag who likes playing laboratory man. A dev tank is basically the only irreplaceable item on the list.
