old thred >>2733662
Tell me about the coolest and rarest rangefinder and ill buy it on ebay. Give me your best shot.
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>>2749209
Forget to mention it should be cheap as well. Less than $50.
>>2749222
>Less than $50
Sorry, i meant $500.
>>2749199
Whats wrong with old one?
Hasn't hit any limits.
>>2749225
Maybe one of those old leicas? I don't know though, I think they're only expensive because of collectors. I doubt they're any better than an old Canon.
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>>2749245
It's close to the limit, I spent ages making that pic, and I'm out of the house all day tomorrow.
You can get a m2,m3,or even m4 body for under 500. if you want a rangefinder with lens go for a voigtlander bessa or a Leica/Minolta CL/CLE
Done a slightly less goofy version of the OP pic.
I'm not a shoopist.
>>2749248
Fair enough
>>2749209
>f0.0
Were you holding your lens to do that?
>>2749266
What did you do to make that pic?
I can't tell so it's good but I want to know.
>>2749300
of coursh.
>>2749305
can't tell if you're joking.
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>>2749329
I'm gonna say this isn't legit.
That would only work if you used a lens with a longer flange distance than the t3i or with a real tilt shift that wasn't electronically controlled
>>2749403
Well I now I can see it's the camera cause they look like the same one as in this pic.
I'm guessing the people holding it are significant in some way but idk who they are.
They are good Photoshops though.
>>2749411
>I'm gonna say this isn't legit.
4U.
>>2749414
What makes you think they're photoshopped?
What's so strange about a man in a photograph holding a camera?
And how can you not know who Sean Connery is?
>>2749199
i think the faggot that did this picture did a diservice to the thread, now the retards are arguing about a stupidly obscure shoop instead of rangefinders. wewlad kill urself OP.
>>2749435
>oh no, one of the gear threads is being derailed.
Post something about, or FROM, rangefinders instead of complaining maybe.
>>2749439
already posted in this thread, and on topic, four fucking times, you cuck. how about YOU contribute something, laddy lad.
>>2749443
Sorry, buddy. No need to be so upset.
I looked through the thread again and didn't see anything that deserves a "rangefinder" thread at all. Just more gear talk outside the gear thread and the strange stupid discussion about photoshops.
So, if you made 4 posts in this thread they can't have been very good ones. Answering "wuts a gud camera?" posts doesn't make you some kind of /p/ saint who gets to talk smack at the rest of us.
Got Fed 3, but it has shutter problems. When i cock the shutter, shutter from left will go on but when i shoot, shutter cloth from right wont roll. Anyone can help?
Finally stepped up and bought the Voigtlander 35mm 1.4 for M mount. Anyone have the lens? How pocketable is it?
>>2749492
Depends on your pockets. I have the 35 2.5 which is about half a centimeter shorter I think and I can fit my M6 with it attached in a fairly big coat pocket
>>2749431
>What makes you think they're photoshopped?
You serious?
Maybe
>I spent ages making that pic
>I'm not a shoopist.
I was just curious as to what was photoshoped because it was implied.
If its not, great If it is, that's fine.
>And how can you not know who Sean Connery is?
I'm a retard pleb you can hold me on that one.
>>2749581
I took the camera from Sean Cannery's hands (playing James Bond there I think) and put it in front of a 16th cantury character called the Witchfinder General from the movie "The Witchfinder General.
I took my fed 4 out for the first time today. Pretty sure I'm doing everything right. Minimum focus distance seems to be about 4 feet. I hope to god it's working alright.
>>2749851
>Witchfinder General from the movie "The Witchfinder General.
>Rangefinder
>Witchfinder
this is top shelf autism.
>>2749851
Thanks.
I'm hoping when my Fed 3 comes its works fine as well.
>>2750127
Well it's built like a tank apart from the shutter speed selector.
ONLY ADJUST THE SHUTTER SPEED AFTER YOU WIND THE FILM.
I'm pretty sure mine has been twisted at the wrong time. I fired a few shots at different speeds with the back off, from 1/4 to 1/60 it looks right, I can't really judge higher than that.
Well I'll know when I get my film back. This is very exciting stuff.
Taking mine out into the snow this weekend. Maybe I'll get more photos of people walking on the road and driving into ditches if the plow trucks don't come too soon.
From the last thread.
My Fed 3 finally arrived with a case in excellent condition which was not mentioned in the auction.
The camera overall was better than I expected.
I've tested the shutter speeds against my 550D and they are very accurate, at the most maybe 1/4 of a stop out.
The only thing is the rangefinder patch is slightly out of alignment vertically.
I know this can be adjusted, anyone here done this before?
>inb4 google
I want to know a method that has actually been tried by someone on /p/ thanks.
Forgot pic related, you probably don't care.
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>>2749247
in the old days Japanese rangefinders were fantastic clones of Leica and Zeiss, sometimes with improvements. Nikkor still made lenses canon, so the optics weren't compleaty shit. Build quality was on par with Leica and really, that is why a Nikon S2 will cost you more than a Leica M2.
pic - my new rangefinder, heading out saturday to shoot and I can't wait.
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Whats a good beginner rangefinder
>>2750418
I would say a Leica M because it is a fantastic camera and you can sell it for as much or more than you buy it for.
but you have many options that are quite nice from $25 to $1000+
some people love the Canonet and similar shit, but my feeling is that they just ruin the rangefinder experience for most people.
>>2750418
Yashica Electro 35
>>2750418
I don't mind answering this as there's often a lot of bad info around rangefinders. People often through non-rangefinders into the mix, like the X100, and you get Leica haters, etc.
If you follow this workflow it should cover some suggestions for you that work according to your needs. It's just my recommendations about what I would buy so not all options are included.
It's just a starting point and there's always other options. Remember that a lot of rangefinders (especially affordable ones - e.g. Epson RD1) are quite unique so you'll need to look into them to understand their flaws and if they'll work for you.
Workflow -->
Do you want to shoot:
Film ---> go to 1
Digital --> go to 2
Do you have the finances to spend on:
High-end (at least £1,000+) but nothing needlessly expensive --> add .a
Mid-range (around £400 - £700) --> add.b
Budget (sub £400) --> add .c
I'm poor and/or just want to try it for fun so cheap as possible --> add .d
Results:
FILM
1.a
Leica M6 TTL
MF rangedfinders like the Mamiya 7
1.b.
Zeiss Ikon
1.c.
Voigtlander Bessa cameras from R2 onward.
1.d
Canon QL17
Yashica Electro
My personal recommendation for best performance for cost is the Voigtlander Bessa R2. It's reasonably cheap to buy, well built and rugged for the price, is m-mount, and easily repairable with no ridiculous electronics to give-up on you.
DIGITAL
1.a
Leica M9 / M-E
(well over £1000)
2.b
Leica M8
(If you look hard you might just find one around £700)
Epson RD1
2.c/2.d
Does not exist
There are very few options if you want to shoot digital rangefinders. Only Leica make them now. People love to hate on Leica prices but digital rangefinders are extremely hard to make and very few people want to buy them. The Epson RD1 cost almost the same as the M8 when new and it was unsustainable for them.
The only two remotely affordable digital rangefinders are the M8 and the RD1. Both are capable of great results when used within their limitations.
>>2750493
Why the m6 ttl and not the regular m6?
How often do you need ttl flash on a rangefinder? If you are going to use flash you can get a good lightmeter for less than the price difference between the two.
.85 viewfinder is nice I guess if you never shoot wider than 50
>>2750494
>Implying there's no other possible reason
As insignificant as it sounds the reason I recommend the M6 TTL over the M6 (classic) is because of the shutter dial.
The M6 TTL and M6 Classic have shutter dials working in different directions (i.e. clockwise vs anticlockwise). Leica change it from the M6 TTL onward.
In isolation this isn't too big a deal. BUT... It can be quite a frustration if you end up with another body. Say, the M6 + a digital M. You end up with two identical looking cameras (almost) but shutter dial working the opposite ways. Can be an annoying mind-fuck.
It's a little thing, but one of those little things that matter, IMO.
>.85 viewfinder is nice I guess if you never shoot wider than 50
The .85 viewfinder is optional on the M6 TTL. Mine had a .72 (just sold it).
[Pic show the MP vs M7 but the shutter dial differences are the same as M6 vs M6 TTL]
>>2750501
Cool, I didn't think there were any other differences. I didn't know about the shutter dial being different on the TTL. My Nikon F2 has it the other way from my m6 and I do find it confusing.
>>2750503
If someone only ever shoots the one camera it's not much of an issue. Or if you don't get annoyed by minor things.
The M6 TTL and all the digital Ms are the same dial though. As a lot of rangefinder fans like to have a digital M + a film M it makes sense to have the same feel between cameras.
Just my recommendation.
I had an M6 TTL (just sold) and it was a superb camera.
>>2750493
I completely agree with this and would add a Minolta / Leica CL and CLE in the budget sub $400 range for an M mount (body only)
cheap digital though not a range finder but native M mount Ricoh GXR had the A12 module, and like you said with the epson, they were snot sustainable.
>>2750501
good point on the dial but it is exactly why I would chose the m6 over the ttl, my primary body is an m3 and would want to keep the dial the same.
another thing I like about the small dial is that it takes more effort to change shutter speeds. for me it got me in the habit to have the exposure set before I bring the camera to my eye.
>>2750503
the only other difference is that the ttl gives you ttl flash exposure, but who uses a flash on a leica?
>>2750619
I left the Leica CL out as I think for the money the Bessa R2, R3, etc, is a much better buy.
Regrading the dial, I do appreciate that it works the other way (M6 -> M3) but I'm thinking that it's far more common for people to add a digital to an M6 rather than another film M.
Regarding flash --> lots of people. I think it's sad that a lot of people have such an aversion to using flash with a Leica. As if it's some sort of taboo. It's just nonsense, IMO. Using flash on a rangefinder is no more/less stupid than using flash on a SLR.
>>2750493
Thanks friend for the list. I will probably start at 1d for now as I will be shooting sparingly and just for fun, I have other film slrs that I use so this would just be a side thing. Thanks
>>2750631
No problem!
Just try to get a decent clean and well adjusted camera. A lot of people buy a super cheap rangefinder, which is out of adjustment and barely visible patch, and dismiss all rangefinders as crap. It's worth spending a little more for an enjoyable experience.
>>2750621
I use flash on my M6 quite often but I use a flash meter, my flashes don't have ttl
>>2750621
fair enough about the CL, the bessa is a better camera but my feeling with leica is that it is often a quicker sell than non leica rangefinders. So if you don't like rangefinder approach, it doesn't take that long to get back your investment.
Lenses on the other hand, Minolta Rokkor glass is a super value if you want cheap M lenses.
with the dial, not trying to be contrarian, just pointing out it all depends on what way you are coming from.
really there is a rangefinder for everyone. I think there is more variation in 35mm rangefinders than there is in SLRs. The Fujiblad Xpan is a vastly different experience than the Zeiss Ikon.
flash - nothing wrong with it, but a lot of rangefinder shooters are hard core on available light
>>2750621
>Using flash on a rangefinder is no more/less stupid than using flash on a SLR.
I'd say better, because you see the flash through the viewfinder, and know exactly what you caught.
Also at low flash powers you have a confirmation that the flash actually fired, sometimes it's difficult to tell with an SLR.
>as long as you're not using something ancient and actually have the switch set to M-sync for 2 whole fucking rolls ;_;
>>2751072
Yeah, away from any niche or limited edition stuff used Leica anything can be a good buy as there will always be a market for it and you can get your money back. I sold an M6 for exactly what I payed for it after owning it for 2 or 3 years.
I've never used any m-rokkors but I was looking at the 90mm and it's definitely cheap. IQ looks good too. Just the f4 putting me off.
>flash - nothing wrong with it, but a lot of rangefinder shooters are hard core on available light
I'm 100% convinced that people adopt this attitude because they lack the ability/skills to use flash well. Any idiot can use flash badly but using flash well and mixing ambient/flash is a real skill. Some people are happy to admit that it's not a skill they posses so they just work with ambient. Others force the whole hardcore ambient light thing so their feelings don't get hurt.
>>2750493
Is Yashicas electro 35 anygood?
>>2750493
Why's the epson R-D1, a digital camera from 2004, still going for so much money?
>>2751449
rare and collectible
>>2751449
One went a few months ago on eBay for £300. I don't think that's a ridiculous amount of money for someone which is obviously not available in large numbers. Especially when you consider the M8 will cost £700-800.
The R-D1 is 6mp and 1.5x crop vs the M8 at 11mp and 1.33x. I think the RD-1 is slighty better at 1600 but both aren't exactly good at higher ISO.
There's a lot of rangefinder users still getting really good results from them. Too many people obsess over gear and forget that you don't really need all that much to get good shots. Look at the original 5D - I had one new and briefly used on again last year. Still a great camera and more than most people will need. You could easily ask why a dSLR from 2005 still goes for £300.
>>2751659
great point, it print size is not a concern a lot of the older CCD based cameras were great. I personally think they had better colour rendition than the current CMOS offerings. The Fuji s5 was probably the best digital SLR ever made (not including MF cameras)
Sadly the consumer demand was for 10bizillion ISO and over saturated colour with shit depth.
>>2751449
Why is the Canon 1Ds, a digital camera from 2002, still going for so much money?
>>2749329
Was it painful?
Something I should have posted in the previous rangefinder thread, still applicable, still worth mentioning.
PSA: For any potential FED-fanciers out there, regardless of anything else about the soviet leica knockoffs, there's one thing few people mention - the stock Industar-61 L/D has awful, awful barrel distortion you'll have to put up with or correct in post every time. Included an uncropped scan example.
>>2752172
Is that awful? I think I'm fine with that as long as I'm not taking architectural photos.
>>2752451
It is awful when you plan and compose a shot around straight lines and symmetry - i.e. in that classic reflective surface selfie, framed by the doorframe's rectangle. Each to their own, but w/ rangefinders you can't see a ground glass image and are sorta dependant on assuming your viewfinder image will be what's on film, save for parallax and fov.
>>2752172
It's funny that I am sometimes disappointed with my 21 Elmarit for the opposite reason. I figure a super wide lens should have some distortion, and this has so little.
>>2752665
wew lad, this is nice.
G R
R uber alles.
>>2752685
Buddy,
1.Cropping.
2.This was the first time I was using a rangefinder and the first time I've used a FED5. The entire point was to shoot stuff like this exactly to figure out these shortcomings.
3.You're blaming the tool instead of the workman, why assume something's difficult to do from a single snapshit?
4.Cropping.
5.High-end rangefinders have both stepless parallax compensation and very precise/accurate framing for popular focal lenghts.
Any recommendations for a small and cheap rangefinder? Like as small as an Olympus OM-1 or Pen?
>>2752763
depends on what you're looking for
need interchangeable lenses?
need aperture priority?
need shutter priority?
want parallax correction?
etc.
if you want it small and easy with fixed 40mm 1:2.8 and shutter priority I'd recommend the Ricoh 500G (got mine for 1eur).
>>2752763
What do you consider cheap? You need to specify some sort of budget.
>>2752763
This is small and I just paid £25 for mine. Can't say if it's good yet because it hasn't arrived.
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>>2752844
make sure you compensate the ISO when using normal LR44 batteries and you're fine.
>>2750382
fed 3. noice. i dont know about yur problem but i have a fed 4 and i love it. basically a 3 with a needle match.
it might be easier and cheaper to buy another one then to get it repaired though anon. try a rangefinding forum
>>2752942
What is this sorcery?
>>2752946
the batteries it takes are not produced anymore and had a slightly different voltage resulting in the light meter to be slightly off when using modern LR44 batteries. I got good results when compensating a full stop, so when shooting 400 ISO film you set the dial to 200 and you're good.
>>2752949
Thanks for the tip. I've been told to generally over expose for film because it's easier to correct after they're scanned. Is this bullshit? It sounds like it might be bullshit.
>>2751427
Yes. Buy a adapter for a 6V battery and make sure the shutter actually works (ask the seller if online) before you purchase it.
>>2752989
Damn, gotta try that out since those batteries are easier to find. I haven't been able to use mine lately since it has leaks and too busy to replace the seals.
>>2753002
you can eaaily replace the seals with rubber foam you find at any crafts store. Just cut 1-2mm strips of 2mm thick foam at put them into the gaps. thick wool might also work, but I haven't tried this.
>>2753014
just use a toothpick and scrape them out if they're that much corroded. This is the stuff I mean: http://www.amazon.com/Foam-Sheets-2-Inch--2-Inch-50-Pack-Rainbow/dp/B00284NN82/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1453748423&sr=8-4&keywords=foam+crafts
>>2753020
Actually, I think I may have seen those the other day while browsing craft stuff with a friend. These will do great since it is only the top portion of the images that are being ruined anyway. Thank you.
>>2753027
I'd replace top and bottom anyway, otherwise you have to start working on the camera soon again.
I only have to walk 10m to the next crafts store to get this stuff and it is very cheap here.
You could also buy the real stuff here: http://www.ebay.com/sch/pilgrim18/m.html?_nkw=&_armrs=1&_ipg=&_from=
Note that I was talking about copper eur 1cent coins before. Not sure which foreign coins fit and I guess you just have to try other coins.
>>2753039
depends on the camera I guess and I wouldn't glue it in.. might be hard to remove in case it doesn't work. The foam sticks in quite well without any glue and can easily be replaced.
>>2753042
Craft/PVA glue is extremely easy to remove. If you can't do it and you don't have a disability, then I don't know why you would even attempt to change a lightseal in the first place.
>>2753046
depending on the camera I used either no glue or double-sided tape. Never used glue as I wanted to test everything before I make it final.. always turned out working, so testing=final.
>>2753032
That's what I meant to say, apologies. Going to look at the rubber foam inserts a little more since they're already at the store. As for an adhesive I'm assuming just some sort odorless and translucent paste.
And as for a coin I think an american dime may fit in the compartment.
Just got my M39 -> Fuji X adapter and tried out all the M39 lenses we've got in the household. I shot each lens wide open and at f8. My subjective results on these copies:
Jupiter 8 - Really soft wide open. Good at f8. Has some nice character. Lowish contrast.
Industar 26 - IMO the loser. Sharper wide open than the Jupiter 8, but doesn't really improve when stopped down. Low contrast, boring.
Industar 61 - Nice wide open, works at f8. Pretty good lens.
Industar 50 - Heavy vignette at wide open (f3.5, slowest of the bunch). A bit soft, but great contrast. Vignette is gone at f8, real sharp.
The Industar 50 seriously impressed me, I think I'll be shooting this on my Fed 2 for the rest of the roll I've got in it. Jupiter 8 was a bit of a letdown, but my copy might be bad too.
Whats a good 6x9 rangefinder for cheap?
Wanted to try so I'm not willing to buy a fiji 6x9, would something like a Moskva do the job?
>>2754240
The Fujis are cheap.
If you insist on wasting your time and money with a busted ass folder first, then at least get a Zeiss or Voigtlander.
>>2754243
If it's a waste of money I won't get it.
But can you point out a cheap fuji cause the cheapest with a lens i could find was $359. Maybe this is cheap and I'm being a complete poorfag.
>>2754243
You're an idiot.
>>2754240
You'll have a 6x6 slight tele 6x9 rangefinder folder with shutter speeds from 1/250s to 1s f/3.5 lens focusing down to 1,5m min - some might find these specs lacking. Pointless to go for an older Zeiss or Voigtlander because they've similar if not inferior specs and are older, more likely to be broken, and more expensive, as you pay hipster tax for the brandnames and buy'em off rich germans rather than poor ukrainians/russians.
>>2753882
I really like your wording and objectivity - "how these copies subjectively seemed to me" - no retarded generalisations and overinflated notion of credibility. Did you research anything about those lenses beforehand? Asking, because your test matches up with the general opinions on those lenses perfectly.
>>2754261
These specs aren't too bad for me if its just going to be landscapes, and some portraits.
Would I be better off with a Kiev MF SLR?
Never occurred to me that parallax maybe an issue for portraits until now.
>>2754261
Thanks! Yeah, I've googled them before and watched some comparison pics, but wanted to do my own too. Seems there can be a bit of a difference between copies, but to be honest after testing it seems a bit exaggerated. My Jupiter though is actually pretty scratched and banged up, and even has some fungus growing on the edges, so it might have lower contrast than better copies.
>>2754302
Sadly the p-six mount slr 6x6 kievs are failure-prone, moreso than their (honestly comparably priced) pentacon six predecessor. You either only buy more expensive, proven-working ones from credible sellers, or go straight to Arax - the company that refurbrishes Kievs, replacing failure-prone mechanisms and improving existing ones. The prices are still very reasonable for a western buyer.
But those are square fomat MFs, landscapes would suffer from that. Also, incredibly ridiculously large, bulky and heavy, with a mirror snap louder than your mom last night, supposedly. Pic related, stolen off someones flickr via google image search.
If you're gonna focus on 6x6 might as well go for the hasselblad copy Kiev 88, original or refurbed by Arax.
All that said, ultimately any camera can make a good picture if used correctly, and the Moskva-5 with its slight tele 6x6 and normal focal for 6x9 seem perfect for both square portraits and nice, wide landscapes. Parallax is something you learn to compensate with one test roll or by improvising a ground glass screen on the film focslmplane with the back open and comparing viewfinder image with actual shot framing. Less'n'hour's work innit.
>>2754342
>with a mirror snap louder than your mom last night, supposedly
kek
>>2754240
I have one. Has taken some nice shots for me but the light leak ruined it. Thankfully the image is so big cropping it will still gave me a usable image. The chance of getting light leaks in Soviet cameras are high.
>>2753882
Cannot judge on the Industar 26, but:
Industar 50 is slow, but really nice. Heard they called it eagle eye.
Industar 61 might be a bit too contrasty sometimes.
My favourite is the Jupiter 8, nice lens with interesting bokeh. Best shot in good light (e.g. golden hour) for color. Attached photo is from a series of private shots I took with Zorki 5 and Jupiter 8 after CLA (testing focus adjustment).
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>>2754392
Light leaks from what, anon? The leather bellows that deteriorate at very different rates depending on storage and usage conditionsnover the decades? Those easily replaceable things every vintage camera repair service makes with their eyes shut?
Or is the camera body itself give lightleaks, that thin metal tin that can be misshapen when dropped from over 4ft, ruining the light-tight seals? The kind of damage that's entirely dependant on the camera's previous owner, rather than an unavoidable manufacturing flaw developingmover time?
For goodness' sake, be specific when accusing a brand or camera make of flaws because otherwise you're only shitting on its reputation because of your own ineptitude. Are you sure the lightleak problem isn't your fault?
>>2754415
Do you have a shot from the Industar 61?
You seem to know what you're talking about thanks anon.
>>2754418
>sperging out this hard over a shit Russian and camera
My Ricoh 500 G just arrived and externally it looks fucking new. Mechanically it seems fine. Optically it's great and there is no corrosion in the battery compartment.
One problem, the light sealing foam has turned to mush. wot do?
>>2755132
sticky foam board and scissors my friend
>>2755143
I've been doing a bit of reading on it. Found a couple of guys that swear by wool felt because it doesn't crumble. Anyone got any experience with this?
>>2755132
Thin craft foam can do it, felt or wool can work too, as long as it'll stick. I used foam and it worked pretty good in my canonet, it does tend to bunch up a bit but as long as you stick it in right it shouldn't be an issue. In the mean time you can always just tape the back of the camera up.
>>2755023
no real life shots.. still not completely done with CLA. Only boring test shots (adapted to digital Fuji), but I can take another test shot tomorrow if you want.
>>2755023
Can't you just type in "Industar 61" in flickr? I mean, if you want to see how the lens renders stuff (as absurd as that is with how post/editing work), or do you specifically want vosh's stuff? I've an entire shitty 24 colorplus200 roll shop-scanned with Fed5 Industar 61 L/D testshots.
>>2755208
I'm a fucking dingus, forgot about flickr.
I just want to see some without post added, so ill dig deep into flickr and see what i find thanks.
>>2755172
I've used some 1mm craft foam and it's not happening. The door won't close, or it will but it feels like it's going to pop the clasp. I made another sheet where I used the minimum amount of foam to still get a seal. Still too chunky to close.
I've got some felt and some light seal foam in the mail. Will report back.
>>2750493
I love the r-d1. Still use mine all the time with an old Jupiter-12 35mm f2.8. I don't plan on ever selling it
is bread kill?
>>2749199
Any other Epson R-D1 anons in the house?
Probably rarer than most rare Leicas. Mine's serial number 22 hundred something.
Got my Ricoh 500g up and running.
Scraped the old light seal gunk out.
Replaces with craft foam.
Wouldn't close.
Scraped craft foam out and ordered some light seal foam.
Stuck that in.
Feels good.
Put l44 battery in the wrong way.
Thought the electrics were goosed.
Changed the battery round.
All good now.
The thing is, I'm pushing 400asa film to 3200 but the metering options only go to 800.
>>2759023
Stop doing this retarded shit.
I hate you so much.
Looks like you're gonne be stuck almost correctly exposing your film, numbnuts.
>>2759023
at 800 and 2 LR44 batteries you're near 1600. Higher will only work if you adjust the shutter speed. So you would have to check the correct speed for your chosen aperture and then adjust the speed to underexpose 1 stop.
>>2758713
why does a digital camera have a film advance lever?
>>2759028
Stop doing what shit? Pushing film? You think I should be a good little boy and stick to 800asa or below? Fuck that. This is basically a club camera.
I can stop down 2 from whatever the meter tells me, if I even look at it. I've been eyeballing the ISO on my main camera for the last year and I'm getting decent at it.
If I actually want properly exposed crisp shots, I won't be shooting on a cheap rangefinder from 1972.
>>2759034
It only fits 1 LR44 battery in it which puts out 15% more than the original battery. I don't think a whole stop is needed.
>>2759042
It cocks the shutter.
As has been mentioned several times, it's basically a manual film body with digital guts grafted in.
>>2759055
Oh I didn't know that, neato. I wish they would release an updated version, 6 megapixels feels very underwhelming in 2016
>>2759050
disregard it.. won't work anyway. I mixed it up.
I had good results when compensating a whole stop at mine, but I guess it's better you try some bracketing when exposing the first film and check.
>>2759043
Get a lightmeter app for your phone, or buy a hotshoe lightmeter. Or just figure it out for yourself, if it's metering for 800 it won't be difficult to figure out
>>2759061
Yeah. This is going to be the first roll i develop myself so it's mainly an experiment. I'll be happy enough if any pics come out. There's a good chance I'll fuck up putting the film on the spool and throw my tank at the wall.
I'm a very angry man.
>>2759073
the problem is that you can only shoot at the compensated (if necessary) ISO aperture/speed combination as the camera is going to open the aperture for the set speed according to the ISO. There's no way of pushing this. I didn't think of this before.
Keep calm when getting the film on the reel. It's the worst part at the beginning. You're going to get better the more you shoot/develop.
>>2759086
>the camera is going to open the aperture for the set speed according to the ISO
That's only if I wanted to use the auto aperture feature isn't it? I do't think that's something I'll be doing anyway.
While I'm on the subject, does anyone kmow anything about light meters? I think I might be needing one as I get more into film. Can I get away with a cheap one?
>>2759065
I would but I gave up my smartphone because I was becoming one of those people that spends all day looking at it instead of interacting with the people around me.
>>2759186
how would you do otherwise? the only 2 things you can change are ISO and shutterspeed, it doesn't offer full manual.
>>2749209
while you're just throwin money around, want to help a broke uni student out and hook me up with a wide angle macro lens?
>>2759196
It's got a film speed setting around the front of the lens.
Then a focus ring (3ft - 30ft infinity)
Then a shutter speed ring (500th - 8th Bulb)
Then an aperture ring (2.8 - 16 Auto)
If I have the aperture ring on anything but "auto" there's an "M" in the bottom left of my viewfinder.
I can see the aperture closing when I twist it. I don't think the camera needs the battery to operate at all. It's just for the meter and auto mode.
The aperture ring
>>2759199
>dubs
Well you gotta hook him up now m8.
>>2759057
>6 megapixels feels very underwhelming
For work its fuck all, for fun its plenty.
For me i would love the camera even at 6MP, would be cool if it was cheaper though.
>>2759055
That's pretty neat.
Thought it was for show and that would've been gay.
Now that this thread is not dead can someone help me.
Got a FED 3 but I cannot figure out how to adjust the rangefinder patch VERTICALLY.
I have no problems with horizontal adjustment which is good cause the vertical adjustment apparently offsets the horizontal alignment so I'll have to adjust that after.
Is there anywhere but ebay where one could buy a fed 2-3 or zenit or something?
I just can't stand ebay and the only other source I found charges treble.
>>2759295
Whats wrong with ebay?
Got my FED 3 in better condition than I expected.
Only thing is you probably will need to adjust the alignment which hopefully someone will answer my post >>2759290 soon.
[EXIF data available. Click here to show/hide.]
Camera-Specific Properties: Equipment Make Canon Camera Model Canon EOS Kiss X4 Camera Software GIMP 2.8.14 Photographer Jake Revell Maximum Lens Aperture f/2.8 Image-Specific Properties: Horizontal Resolution 240 dpi Vertical Resolution 240 dpi Image Created 2016:02:03 18:10:16 Exposure Time 1 sec F-Number f/11.0 Exposure Program Manual ISO Speed Rating 100 Lens Aperture f/11.0 Exposure Bias 0 EV Metering Mode Center Weighted Average Flash No Flash, Compulsory Focal Length 24.00 mm Color Space Information sRGB Rendering Normal Exposure Mode Manual White Balance Auto Scene Capture Type Standard
I just bought a Canonet QL17 from Japan for about 80€ (that's around 90$)
Does anyone have any experience with it here ?
>>2759674
It's pretty much in perfect condition also, if anyone's wondering
>>2759674
yes.
Anyone here that has calibrated the RF on their Fujifilm GF670/Voigtländer Bessa III? Got some questions...
>>2759683
nvm, nailed it! Feel so proud when I fix my own stuff lol
>>2759885
Mind sharing how? I might have some rangefinder focus issues.
Just picked up a Kiev 4 with a Helios-103. This shit is brilliant.
Why's everyone on FED-Zorki's dick instead of Kiev?
>>2763562
I've heard they tend to break easily and are a bit quirky to use. For me personally I just liked the way the FED 2 looks, the specs were right and I've got access to a bunch of M39 lenses already.
>>2763595
I heard that Leitz and Soviet M39 have slightly different alignments, though.
The razor wheel and "contax grip" do kinda suck, but it's pretty nice to use overall. Plus, its lenses are supposedly better/focus closer than the Soviet M39 alternatives, but that's not usually what we're in this for anyway.
New Zenit Leica copies incoming?
https://slon.ru/posts/63629
>"Rostec" plans to revive the brand "Zenith" cameras, said communications director of the state corporation Vasily Brovko.Thisinformsthe RNS.
>"This is a very high demand product, we want to make it a luxury device, by analogy with the Leica", - said the representative of "Rostec".
>In the USSR, "Zenith" cameras let Krasnogorsk Mechanical Plant (KMZ), today the company is a part of "Rostec".
>"Zenith" was the most massive Soviet SLR.At ASM also produces regular lenses to "Zenit": various modifications "Helios" and "Industar"."Zenith" Production stopped in 1986.
>>2759674
Yep,
I bought one the other week in the UK.
It's really well built, I think I need to get used to the rangefinder format - I've always shot with 35mm SLR - so there is an added difficulty.
The only issue that I've come across is the battery, which needs to be substituted for something similar. Now, I've done this, I got Duracell 625 zinc air cell (£2.50 for 6!), but I needed to make a small metal shim to wedge between the battery and the holder since it was loose. It works great - but I think the camera works without a battery as it's fully manual - so I might get a light meter.
Cool camera, can't wait to get my pictures developed.
I hate to do another "wat camera iz gud" post, but maybe you guys are feeling charitable since I pretty much know exactly what I want.
Anyway, here's what I'm looking for:
>Compact
>Usable RF
>Fixed lens around 35mm, f/2 or faster
>No meter or auto modes necessary
>As much metal and gears and as little plastic and electronics as possible
>Works with modern batteries, or without batteries at all
>Preferably under $200 in working condition
The Canonet above seems to tick the right boxes pretty well. I see that it doesn't work with modern batteries that are available in the US, though. Does it only need a battery for the meter, or is it actually critical to make the camera work?
>>2763776
I'm >>2763734
The Canonet is the only rangefinder I was interested in as the 40mm f1.7 lens is amazing.
The batteries are easy to get, but like I said, get something 1.4 V or better yet, 1.35V so the voltage is the same as the original - and you might need to do what I did to make them fit.
It's quite hefty, about 630 grams, so it's not THAT light, but still compact. Seems to be simple as they get desu.
>>2763734
http://www.ebay.fr/itm/371373106929?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2648&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
I found an adapter for the batteries on ebay, they manage to get the same old 1.35V current in the camera (so it doesn't overcharge the light meter)
Can't wait to get my camera in the mail
>>2763931
12 dorra?
Fuck that. I'm using the wrong battery and it's fine.
>>2759042
Oooooohhhhh I bet that feels nice.
This pops up in every thread with old CdS lightmeters - both handheld and built in - and ill-informed fucks always post the same posts, repeating the same misinformation. Look:
>CdS-cell based lightmeters need a constant (not changing, seriously, can't stress this enough) reference current to work - to measure light intensity.
>Older CdS meters relied on the clutch existence of mercury-based power cells outputting an almost-ideally steady current of 1.35 volts. They were cheap, readily available, gud. So camera meters used them. All was gud.
Until >muh environment and >mercury poisenous omg bs caused them to be withdrawn from use.
>Later CdS meters have built-in voltage stabilising circuits so alkaline and zinc batteries, which put out lower voltage as they deplete, could be used.
OLDER METERS LACK THIS CIRCUIT.
YOU CANNOT REPLACE 1.35V BATTERIES WITH 1.5V ALKALINE ONES AND HAVE RELIABLE READOUTS.
Sure, they will work - giving wrong readings. How wrong? Depending on how depleted the battery is - how much its voltage depleted. Sorry if I mix current and voltage, techppl. Principle same.
>inb4 ppl say they do it and it works and I'm retarded.
Sure it "works" - film is ridiculously lenient with exposure, we all know this. It's better than sunny16, but don't expect perfectly exposed slide films from your old camera. Get a lightmeter that takes 1.5v batteries. Or buy a converter like >>2763931 said, it effectively makes the battery output around 1.35v till it dies, technicalities aside.
Please, for the love of Glod, cut the "old battery for camera lightmeter" bullshit discussions in every single thread.
>>2764368
while we're discussing this silver oxide 1.5v batteries are a thing. Never had a problem with black and white negative film.
>>2764424
Yeah as long as it gives out a steady voltage over its entire lifespan you just gotta compensate a few steps and it works perfectly - albeit its normal range is reduced by the amount of steps you gotta substract/add so its lowlight or bright light metering range suffers - never tried, don't remember which.
Hearing aid batteries zinc-air batteries give 1.35-1.4V, but once you start the chemical reaction by stripping their sticker, they run out in two months or something like that - inevitably. So pretty shit in the long run, dependability-wise. Converters if done correctly are the best long-term solution, imo.
>>2764439
Silver oxide does give steady voltage until it dies, unlike alkaline as you say. I use a 1.5v silver oxide in my canonet with a bit of tin foil to pad the compartment out. I've never felt the need to compensate at all, auto exposures all fine. I can't speak for every camera but at least on the canonet in my experience the difference is completely negligible. I have read that with a converter you lose the ability to use the check battery function on the canonets.
