Rangefinders
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What are your favorite film rangefinders? I've never shot with one before but I'm thinking about picking one up. I found a good deal on a leica m3 but it's still super expensive. I've heard that they have the best viewfinders but I could also save some money and get a Canon P or Canon 7 for a fraction of the price. What do you think?
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>>2733662
honestly, if you're planning on shooting with only a 50mm, you can't get a better option than the konica iiia
-great lens, based on the zeiss planar
-outstanding build quality
-very compact, more so than any interchangeable lens rangefinder
-1x magnification viewfinder, very bright, meaning focusing is a breeze, and you don't even have to close the other eye
-dirt cheap compared to other high end rangefinders because hipsters haven't learned about it yet (I got mine in near mint for a little over 100usd)
-leaf shutter, so ultra quiet and flash synch at every speed
only downsides are that the shutter speed only goes up to 1/500th, since it's a leaf shutter, and that they're kinda hard
Someone else was going to say it comrade.
>>2733662
I shoot an M3 and a couple screw mount Leicas, the M3 is a tank and lovely to use. That said I enjoy my IIIf for its compact size.
Leica for a film rangefinder, in my opinion is always your best choice because of it's resale value. You will always get your money back when it comes time to sell and sometimes make a little. Prices though range from stupidly expensive to relatively cheap, the same goes for repairs and you will need repairs.
The best viewfinder I have ever seen on a rangefinder was on a Zeiss Ikon. Lovely camera but feels a little cheap to me for the price.
of the cameras I have owned or shot
-Minolta CLE (also Leica CL) - cheap entry into the M mount system
-Leica IIc and IIIf (screw mount variants) - fun compact, can be frustrating having a separate viewfinder and rangefinder
-Leica M3 - beautiful camera that can be expensive or cheap, repairs can be expensive. .91 rangefinder only has lines for 50,90,135
-Leica M6 - had one for a month or so, .72 finder was nice and versatile but it didn't offer anything my m3 didn't.
-Hasselblad x-pan - really neat camera, the panoramic view is great and everything looks like magic with it. I cant justify the price though.
-Zeiss Ikon - best finder - best meter - feels like a Nikon FE
Honorable mention
Rollei 35 - not a rangefinder but interesting little camera. easily pocketable with a great lens (I had the Tessar)
>>2733676
I'm intrigued. I'm seeing a bunch online with a 48mm lens is that the kit lens?
>>2733705
That makes way more sense. I'm way too tired
>>2733688
i dont know if i should laugh or cry
>>2733662
if you have never shot a rangefinder before, pickup a fed you should be able to get a nice condtion one with leather case for 20/30 quid.
i got a fed 4 for myself as a christmas present and i still cant get over just how joyful it is to use and the sheer quality and heft you get for so little rubbles.
plus feds are a homage to m2's and m3's so they would give you a feel of what youd get if you spent all your money on one.
>>2733744
hey anon, zorki or fed?
>>2733746
I'm sporting a fed 3 in my camera cabinet. Not taking it out that often anymore, can't really see the hype in rangefinders. For the price it's a must have though. Good lens and I just get an erection every time I operate it.
>>2733746
the camera i bought ??
fed 4
>>2733753
zorki where slightly better built and had more metal in the lenses but cost a bit more these days.
up to your own tastes i think the zorki is a bit smaller and lighter as well.
the fed weighs more than a dslr with the case.
The Olympus fixed lens rangefinders are also pretty nice. Very light and portable, and I think most have built in lightmeters (don't know if you were planning to take along an external lightmeter anyway, or rely entirely on sunny 16). The lens on the 35-SP is simply amazing, the one of the 35-RD really nice, others I haven't tried yet. You can get all of them pretty cheap.
If you don't mind the bulk the Konica Auto S2 is a good camera too.
>>2733746
Feds' shutters go up to 1/500, zorki's 1/1000, that's the only real difference that matters in anything. Other than that it's all looks and aesthetics.
If you want a higher quality ussr rangefinder, get a Kiev with its contax lens mount.
Light seals failed and the spot meter button fell off so it's toast now but I loved it when it was in better shape.
I would recommend the Leica M3 for sure, it wont fall apart in such disappointing ways as any of the fixed lens rangefinders or the canon P/7s
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oly 35 rc
Buy a Leica M3, it's pretty much the best viewfinder on any RF camera and it's an excellent camera, plus all the Leica lenses range from pretty good to excellent. And then when you've used it for a while you'll most likely realize that rangefinders get really hyped up for nothing and you'll see why they were made obsolete by SLRs and then if it turns out that they're not for you then you can sell back the M3 without losing any money.
>ITT leica™
Nobody talking about Nikon rangefinders.
Those things are made of sex and to top it off you can get both camera and lens for under 1k USD.
Olympus XA is quite lovely, even if the rangefinder patch is a bit hard to see and focusing is a bit fiddly.
>>2733899
Nikon made some fucking great lenses back then, even in screw mount.
>tfw all the replies are too expensive except for the meme XA
opinions?
>>2733953
It's a pretty nice little good looking camera but I think it sells for more than it's really worth. Mine had a pretty dim viewfinder and hard to see RF patch even after I cleaned it all up, I'm not sure if they're all like that. Also you can choose either shutter priority auto or manual with no metering, it's pretty stupid.
>>2733953
the parallax on these is retarded. just get a leica.
>>2734005
>grammatical error
>>2734005
>leica
:&)
>>2733881
>zoom recorder
>vintage rangefinder
how does your girlfriend's strap-on feel?
these are all my favorite
the yashicas are good and not too expensive.
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>>2733953
I had one, favorite camera until it bit the dust.
Sharp, small, easy to use. The metering even worked on mine but the great thing is they're all mechanical and manual if the electronics die.
But as mentioned, can be over priced some times.
OP here. If I do end up going with the M3 are there any specific lenses I should look at?
>>2734094
Also thanks for everyone's help. You've given me a lot to research and consider
>>2734094
plenty, what is your budget and what do you shoot?
>>2734094
Get a 50, the M3 is made for 50mm with that sweet sweet viewfinder magnification. If you want 35 then get an M2 instead, if you want 28 or wider then I guess look into the M6 or something instead, if you want tele then honestly RFs probably aren't for you.
I have a 50mm Summicron dual-range (I don't have the goggles, though), it's a great little lens which is a contemporary of the M3 and is relatively cheap and it's a solid brass brick shithouse of a lens just like the M3. It's high contrast and has a very nice look but it's single coated and old. If you want to spend more money you can buy any of the other Summicron models that have come after it, there are a lot of models and they have incrementally improved optics from one model to the next but they're all really good to begin with. You can get a Summilux too if you really want to spend a lot more money but personally I don't see the point, if you want to be shooting at f/1.4 then an SLR is going to be a lot easier to focus accurately and if you're going to be stopping down then a Summicron is cheaper and smaller and lighter.
>>2733662
I've got a Mamiya 6 kit with 50/75/150, and the results are pretty nice. But color film ends up at like $2 /shot, with black and white at about half that. This is the same for any medium format camera, but holy shit, it's on the verge of unaffordabiltiy. Perhaps I should just shoot 35mm through it using adapters.
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>>2733662
if I were getting one now, it would be a bessa r3a with a small 50mm prime. Sub f/2.0 lenses are overrated.
>>2734186
That's an awful scan of what looks like an amazing photo.
>>2734186
how much did you pay? I've been wanting a mamiya 6 forever
>>2734186
You can get a whole kit for around $1500 bucks on ebay now, that's pretty much what I paid when I was scrounging for deals a couple of years ago
>>2734192
Thanks! One of my first experiments with DSLR scanning. I think I did it with a 50mm mounted backwards on a DSLR with an enlarger as a backlight. The resolution is pretty sweet though
>>2734126
>and is relatively cheap
nah
>>2734199
>relatively
Most Leica 50mm Summicrons are $1000+ but you can find a DR for like $500. Anything M mount is incredibly expensive, you can't really compare it to SLR lenses where you can get 50mm f/2 lenses almost for free. What would you recommend instead?
>All of this Lecia talk
For anyone looking for a decent RF that doesn't cost a dick and 2 nuts but has a similar build design and M39 mount I would definatly check out the Zorki lineup.
>>2733662
A couple of years ago I picked up the Canon VI-L rangefinder with the Canon 50mm 1.2 ltm. It's the higher end model of the p, and I love it. Never had any problems.
>>2733662
The only answer is to buy a Fuji 6x9 and dominate life.
Cheaper than any Leica, incomparably better IQ.
I recommend a Zorki 5 or if you don't care about having an advance lever, but want long times a Zorki 4. Zorki and Fed are also very easy to repair and adjust.
If you want it to be compact get some Werramatic - leaf shutter is harder to repair, but still manageable and the finder is a lot better than in Zorki/Fed.
Sold my Yashica Electro some days ago as I got a CV Bessa with 35mm and 50mm.
>>2734190
why the A? Would always get an M.. I want my camera to be useable even without batteries.
>>2734268
>why the A? Would always get an M.. I want my camera to be useable even without batteries.
I think most people would rather have the option of aperture priority than the reassurance that the camera will still work if found without replacement batteries 10 years down the line when they finally fail.
>>2734270
I forgot to release the shutter when I already transported the film in my YE. Batteries were empty the next day.. if that happens during some holiday you're pretty much fucked if you got no replacement batteries around.
Don't know if it's the same in A Bessas.. my Bessa measures when the shutter release is half pressed, that's enough for me.
>>2734279
I've accidentally left my R2A cocked for days before, still on the same set of batteries I put in it when I bought it 3-4 years ago.
>>2734262
>Fuji MF rangefinders are love.
>Fuji MF rangefinders are life.
Do your self a favor and get one of these and you will not regret it.
90mm @ f3.5
That 40mm~ equivalent fov
Bokeah that will make your pee pee diamonds.
>>2734298
once you get over the bokeh phase you'll notice it's just another nice mf camera. I enjoyed shooting Mamiya Universal recently, but it's a pain in the ass to carry around.
>>2734305
They're not just another MF camera.
They're 69, for one, the lenses are sharp, distortion free and multicoated, and they're an integrated, easy to use design.
Shit like separately cocked shutters, darkslides, accessory finders, frame counters, uncoupled rangefinders, you don't have to think about or deal with.
You just put film in it, set an exposure, focus, compose, fire.
You can carry it all day (or both of them if you like), shutter slap won't blur your pics, it is sxc looking.
so good.
>>2734346
$650 is a good price
50mm as stated above is the natural choice for the m3, also as stated the 50mm is not simple. Get ready to head down the rabbit hole here.
Lets start simple, my own gear I shoot with a Zeiss 50 f2 Planar and a screw mount 50 f2 Summicron. The planar is a modern lens with modern coatings and great for colour, It ranks right up there with modern Summicrons in IQ and build quality. The screw mount cron is old, and single coated, it is my go to lens for B&W, but not great for colour. The old cron kicks the Planars ass for nice smooth contrast. Some people don't like collapsibles, I love mine for it's more compact profile.
Screw mounts can be mounted on M cameras with an adapter.
The Zeiss will be a little above your budget unless you can find one used, an old cron will be right in there.
here is where it gets tricky:
expect to do some homework and look at examples on flickr.
Voigtländer and Minolta - make / made good but cheap options for M glass. The Minolta M is becoming collectible now for some reason and the prices are stupidly over inflated right now.
Zeiss - excellent option for M glass that is as good (some people say better in some cases) as Leica for about a third of the cost.
Leica - can be divided into 2 gropes, collector and shooter. "BGN" means shooter on B&H and KEH, "ugly" can still be usable.
now here is where you will need to research or just just jump.
Elmar - simple lens design / cheap entry point.
Summar - before the cron, has swirlie bokeh
Summicron - the gold standard but which version? early ones like mine may be radioactive, latter ones get higher contrast and sharper (sometimes) do your research.
Summilux - If you need f1.4 and have $$$$ to pay for it . The cron is generally a sharper lens.
Have fun
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>>2734391
also, just because the m3 doesn't have frame lines for wide lenses, that doesn't mean you cant use them. I frequently shoot 35 on mine with no goggles or external finder. I also have a 21, for that I do use a hot shoe finder for the frame lines.
>>2734346
$650 sounds pretty good. I got my M3 for $550 and my 50mm DR Summicron for $550 from KEH so maybe check what they have in stock right now, they occasionally have some really good deals on BGN stuff.
Is the Olympus Pen EE-2 a good buy for $35? I'm looking for a small half frame film camera.
Half frame since I am poor.
No love for the Minolta Hi-Matic 7s?
>>2734468
You want one? I'll sell it to you.
>>2734455
$35 seems a bit expensive to me. I see lots of them on second hand sites for €5-€15.
Personally I would look for something you can at least (zone) focus.
>>2734473
Already have one, thanks.
>>2734455
For that much make sure it works. These along with Olympus Trip 35s are notorious for sticky aperture leaves
http://www.kyphoto.com/classics/penees2repair.html
Not OP, but what would you get out of:
Minolta Hi Matic 7s
Canon QL17
Yashica Electro 35 GSN
Zorki 4K
Also any suggestions on anything else.
I basically want something smaller than an slr with a decent fixed lens or cheap.
>>2734644
first) Minolta
second) Yashica
third) Canon
never) Zorki
>>2734678
Thanks
Wasn't too sure about the Zorki either
>>2734687
Don't listen to that guy, my Zorki 4 is one of my favorite rangefinders simply because of the fact that it's a great knockoff to the Lecia lineup. The only thing that turns people away is the shutter dial/lens aperature can set from camera to camera.
>>2734644
The Minolta is fucking big though. I got one for my girlfriend exactly because she wanted something smaller/lighter than an SLR, and it's like exactly as big and as heavy.
The Zorki is in no way bad IMO. Just more of an acquired taste. I like some of the shots I've gotten with USSR rangefinders a lot.
>>2734605
I think it works. Is it a good daily camera that I can bring daily? What are the limitations of half frame?
>>2734711
What about lightmeter?
>>2734186
fuuuuuck that's such an awesome photo as it is but if you can ever get that scanned properly I would love it even more.
>>2734769
Not him, but I just do sunny 16 and a free light meter app on my phone, if I have more time to take my shots.
>>2734766
The resolution of half frame sucks and many of the cameras are based on selenium cell light meters, which probably won't work at least properly anymore. Many cameras are zone focus, which can be annoying.
I like the format, the crappy resolution is awesome with BW film IMO because I like grain. Hate it with color though. I'd like one of the better Pens at some point but they're rather expensive.
>>2734769
The M3 doesn't have a light meter and that's where KMZ got its inspo for the Z4.
>>2734864
I'm not OP and I know the M3 doesn't meter.
I'm might try without but love lightmeters and would rather have it built in.
>>2734340
You listed all the reasons why I use it more than my RB67
>>2734678
here
>>2734711
>>2734712
reason for the Minolta - Back when Leica wanted to build the R and CL they felt only Minolta had the QC to do it.
Yashica built contax way back, great cameras.
Canon good but I have seen more broken canonets than working ones
Zorki - went shooting with a friend that had 5 of these, every one chewed up film.
>>2734875
>>2734864
>>2734769
you can get pretty good at reading light when you don't have a meter. not a really big deal unless you are shooting transparency
>>2735054
>Zorki - went shooting with a friend that had 5 of these, every one chewed up film.
Your friend was probably doing something wrong.
I wonder why only few consider the CV Bessa series in here when they offer what most of you want.
Keep in mind that Fed/Zorki/Kiev do not offer any framelines at all. The finder is supposed to cover the 50mm that come with it. Although you can attach pretty any m39/ltm lens, you're limited to a 50mm unless you get one of these ugly external finders KMZ made.
Many of the entry rangefinders with fixed focal length need batteries to work. You can choose between parallax corrected (YE35, Canon QL etc.) ones and ones with fixed framelines, but also between shutter priority and aperture priority (partly + M).
If you want exchangeable lenses you can choose between Leica M mount and m39 (aka Leica thread mount). At Leica M you have to get a Leica M5 or M6 for full TTL lightmeter and let's be honest: The M5 is ugly as fuck. You can also get some Bessa R, which all have full TTL and some (those with an A) have aperture priority, but only work with batteries.
At m39 you can choose between Canon P, Canon 7, Zorki, Fed, and the Bessa R. The light meters in Canon 7 are usually not working, so forget about lightmeters at m39 (except for Bessa R) and use an external one or some smartphone app. Bessa R is the only one that offers full TTL and 1/2000s max, while all others offer a max. of 1/1000s or longer. Canon P, Canon 7 and Bessa R are the ones to go for here if you're looking for parallax correction and adjustable framelines depending on what focal length you want to use.
>>2735125
* I never shot any of the Zeiss rangefinders, nor did I educate myself on them, so I cannot comment on those.
What's the difference between these and which one should I get?
Olympus 35 SP
Olympus 35 RC
Olympus 35 RD
I'm looking for a cheap, compact rangefinder with a fixed lens.
Or should I get a Canonet QL17 instead?
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>>2735132
the one that fits your shooting style.
https://web2.ph.utexas.edu/~yue/misc/rangfndr.html
>>2735118
wow! quirky! ;-)
>>2735145
>micro penis leica owner detected
>>2735159
wow audrey, can you tone it down a bit, please? cant handle all this quirky™
>>2735167
BGN condition means fully functional, they test everything before they sell it and if it isn't working properly it's automatically UG condition. My BGN M3 has a bunch of scratches all over the top plate and little dents and the paint on the back is flaking off, but it has a clean crisp viewfinder with no separation and the shutter curtains are in perfect condition and all the shutter speeds are accurate and everything works perfectly.
>>2735132
the 35 SP is not cheap compared to anything else you're looking into so scratch that off your list
>>2735144
>Bessas are also the real option
nothing against the Bessa, just generally forget about it.
it's a decent entry to rangefinders if not a little overpriced for what they are.
>>2733662
I would buy a fed 2 with a jupiter-3 50mm f1.5 and a 135mm f4.(much cheaper than a leica)
>>2735180
They're all about the same price on UK ebay
>>2735189
wow so they have. I must have bought mine when they were still fotm. The 35 SP is the best of the bunch performance wise as it has the best lens and spot metering but it's also the largest by a good margin too. I've only had experience with the SP and QL17, the QL was quieter and smaller and the build quality felt about the same between the two but the spot metering on the SP really is a great feature. If I was to do it all over again I would go for the SP
>>2733662
Nikon S2, Pic Related, my Nikon S2
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>>2735205
Cheers man I'll check out the 35 SP. There's a second hand camera shop in my city so I'll see if they've got any in stock.
>>2735207
nice cameras but they are quite rare here and sell for more than the average M4-p
>>2735213
Bought mine NIB for 500 with the lens.
>>2735132
Don't get the SP if you want something small it's huge as fuck. The RD is the best choice in terms of size/quality of image/functions out of those three.
I prefer the Canonet desu, although make sure you buy a serviced one as they are prone to have certain issues.
>ctrl + F
>no Contax G2 mentioned itt
>dissapointed
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>>2735422
because its a glorified point and shoot
>>2735439
that's a lie and you know it !!
>mfw i shoot 37-38 exposures all the time with this camera
Any thoughts about Carl Zeiss Werra 1 ?
>>2735452
Anything you can't focus accurately is a p&s m8.
>yfw real p&s's with IR focusing actually nail focus almost every time, get 39 of every roll, cost $1 instead of $1000
>>2735463
iam totally new to filmphotography..needed a ff film rangefinder so i bought this one for 500 bucks almost brand new and not 1 single tiny scratch.
with the 45mm f2 CZ
anything beside the contax g2 is too expensive..and i don't wanna go for some canon or yashica electro so....
>>2735513
Canonet QL17 or Olympus 35 SP are great, inexpensive rangefinders
>>2735422
My feelings around the G2 are the same as what I feel about the Contax 645, Hasselblad x-pan, and the Nikon F6.
Great cameras, the best of film photography, over priced for market trends (when new), would have been awesome had they come out 10 years prior. Ultimately killed by digital.
they are more curiosities now than practical systems to invest in.
>>2736132
it is a great one i guess even if i use it like a scrub lol ..just developed my first 2 b/w films from the contax g2... and my question is ....why is there so much grain on this ilford pan 400 film, is this usual for an iso 400 film ?
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>>2736261
another pan 400
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>>2736261
135 400 will have grain, you can't get away from that. However a lot of things go into how much grain you will see, from how you rate the film, developer, chemistry temp, and how you are scanning / printing the neg.
at this size I would think it has more to do with your scanner than the film, what are you using?
>>2736132
>F6
Oh god I secretly have been wanting one of those but can't justify the cost when I have no AF lenses. It's such a good solid camera like its predecessors.
I have like 4 Nikon film bodies and need to consolidate down to two have have thought about an F3 and an F6 because I eventually will go Nikon AF.
Shit
>>2736333
what about tmax 400?
I am shooting a roll right now and kinda curious about the grain compared to pan400
>>2736333
>Tri-X is even more grainy
> but much more contrast
you realize these factors are more dependant on the developer type/agitation than the actual film stock right?
>>2736344
Tmax 400 is a lot less grainy than Tri-X, at least when I did both in HC-110 Dilution B
>>2736345
This.
Talking about bw film quality is like talking about how fast your wheels spin and how well they handle without mentioning the car at all.
That said, foma400 is known to be one of the grainiest films, esp. on 35mm, while tmax was specifically designed with flat halide crystals to produce grain as fine/small as possible with the designated developer/dev process, so there's that. TriX is in the middle here.
>>2736353
I shot Foma 200 in 5x7 and developed it in HC110 B and it came out looking like Tri-X with a little less grain and all of the image quality of MF, that's what I get for shooting through 100-year-old Zeiss glass I suppose.
>>2736361
no one cares buddy
To demonstrate how variable grain is
I did everything wrong here.
This is Delta 100 pushed to 400, developed in Rodinal 1/50 with constant agitation (roller machine) and scanned with a Coolscan 8000.
The grain is still finer than >>2736261
though it shouldn't be.
Sorry about the dust, it was just a quick scan and didn't bother cleaning the neg.
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this is tri-x @ 400 shot in contrasty light. y'all are doing wrong
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>>2736383
>>2736374
Have some MF Tri-X in HC-110 B
Was good enough for Ansel Adams (though he had far superior 320 Tri-X)
>>2736393
>blown highlights and crushed shadows
>grainier yet softer than 35mm 400
>can't even clone out the dust
why haven't you killed yourself yet you useless faggot
>>2736404
Because I strive to piss off people on an anonymous image board that I will never meet and have no real way to wage retribution other than replying to my posts.
The real question is, why haven't you filtered me out? I have a tripcode it's not exactly rocket science.
>>2736383
meh, the delta was just what I had laying around. I usually push Agfa APX 100 to 400 (though I just ran out) and process for high contrast (constant agitation) and grain (rodinal) for that Anton Corbijn look.
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>>2733953
i have one, slightly overpriced, attractive camera, optics are pretty decent, for some reason i dont really enjoy using this camera, its just not fun for me
good camera though
>>2736594
>for some reason i dont really enjoy using this camera
maybe its beacause at the moment you wish you were shooting with the real deal aka. yashica electro.
>>2736597
I'm not him but having owned both cameras I think the Canonet is way better. The Electro is a big fat pig, at least the Canonet is small and light and good looking. In the end neither was really that great but I guess rangefinders in general just aren't for me.
>>2736374
>>2736383
>>2736393
>>2736442
>implying any of these are fine grained
35mm Retro 80S in 1:50 Rodinal, normal agitation.
Use fine-grained films if you want fine grain.
Give all film plenty of exposure if you want to minimise grain.
Use good photographic technique to get sharp images; contrast and detail in the picture masks the appearance of grain.
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>>2736418
tripfag go home
>>2736682
>Give all film plenty of exposure if you want to minimise grain
wrong
denser film = more grain
the key to low grain in 35mm is getting the exposure dead-on and not overdeveloping
or you could just shoot 4x5 like a real man and use any old film you find and coffee to develop it or w/e and get photos with more resolution and less grain than any 35mm film/developer could ever dream of having...
>>2736703
>getting the exposure dead-on and not overdeveloping
sort of ... the advertised ISO of film is not its true ISO so you need to do a lot of testing as well.
>>2736682
>reading comprehension
As I stated here >>2736442 I proscess for high contrast and grain, not low grain (ie fine grain).
Also if you are interested in fine grain stay miles away from Rodinal, even at 1/100 it is still a sharpening developer that will accentuate the edge of the film grain
For fine grain you want to be using d-76 or ID-11. HC110 is a sharpening developer like Rodinal but will be finer than rodinal if you are pushing and pulling.
but because of all of the variables these rules of thumb are not set in stone
Stand development and semi stand developing is a whole different game, also easy to fuck up.
>>2736703
>denser film = more grain
on your shitty scanner which introduces noise when you make it work.
Grain is visible in areas of low contrast.
You minimise its appearance with your exposure and processing, and where you place the steepest part of the contrast curve.
If you underexpose the film, or leave too much of your detail in the shadows, you'll need to increase the contrast in the flattest section of the film's sensitivity curve to retrieve it, to the point that grain will be exacerbated.
Overexposing to the point that the highlights block up on the film is much harder to do, both because of its latitude and also because of the way cameras meter.
Underexposing and push processing is the exact same principle, but using the chemical process to build contrast on the flat of the sensitivity curve, rather than in scan processing or printing.
Pic related is either HP5 or Neopan 400 in 35mm, shot at 400, and processed in T-Max Dev.
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>>2736770
for that reason, pushing film when you're scanning is completely useless. you're not gaining shadow detail, you're just increasing grain while pushing the lower values higher to get more or less correctly places tones, which you can do digitally with curve adjustments.
>>2736815
>for that reason, pushing film when you're scanning is completely useless
I'd rather have correctly exposed negatives for the possible eventuality that I want to use them with something other than a scanner.
Just ordered 1L of HC-110 and 1L of Ilford Rapid Fixer. Going to be developing my old rolls (probably excluding Delta 3200) and then keep on shooting Hp5. How'd I do?
What's the grain like with Hp5 and HC-110 pushed to 1600? I'm going for a grainy and contrasty Provoke look.
>>2737059
Pretty good I guess, I like HC-110 myself. One protip is to get 4 250mL amber glass bottles and fill them all to the brim with developer and store them somewhere dark. That way only one bottle at a time is exposed to air when you use it and the other bottles have no air at all in them. The developer will turn from yellow to a gross brown eventually but don't worry about it, it'll be good pretty much forever.
>>2737059
>Ilford Rapid Fixer
>Not Photographer's Formulary TF-4
I shiggy diggy rest in peace biggy my niggy
>>2737066
rapid fixer is fine, Sugar hates it so that is endorsement enough.
HC-110 is a nice developer, but I don't like the stock and working solution bit. When I do use it, I'll just save up a few dozen rolls and mix it all and flush whatever is left.
I have a lot of HP5 and only Rodinal to process in. Am I gonna be better off with a developer like HC110/D76/ID-11?
Rodinal just doesn't seem suited for HP5 from what I've shot so far.
>>2737081
>Yeah I need to go grab bottles and those measurement cups and stuff. Pretty sure they can be had for way cheaper from a non-photography specific store.
My local supermarket sells measuring jugs for ÂŁ1. ÂŁ2.50 for a set of measuring spoons and I also use syringes too.
Since I only use Rodinal one shot atm, I just put marbles in to fill it up and keep it in my fridge. Other pre-mixed chemicals stored in 1l bottles under my kitchen worktop.
>>2737081
It is good stuff Freestyle Photo carries it. My only complaint is that it has a strong smell and it can be a pain to wash off if you get any of it on you.
It will fix most BW film in a couple of minutes though.
I don't hate Ilford's fixers they're not too bad I just prefer TF-4
>>2737089
>Rodinal just doesn't seem suited for HP5 from what I've shot so far.
what look are you after, I have been using HP5 and Rodinal for about a decade for my MF stuff.
it might be a matter of changing time, dilution, agitation, or temperature
>>2737112
also going to trip up for the purpose of this thread
>>2737112
>What look are you after
relatively fine grain, decent contrast. Something I've been unable to get outta Rodinal.
This shot was taken with XP2. Every time I use XP2 the picture seems to be fairly detailed and has some punch that HP5 in Rodinal is lacking for me.
I've tried stand development and active development but everything so far seems to turn out a little flat for my liking.
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>>2737126
>XP2
ahh OK
XP2 is not a traditional B&W film it is a monochrome, colour process film. so you will never really replicate the look.
Stand development will leave you flat with gradual mid tones forever, I am not a fan. have you just tried standard 1/50? I often over develop a bit to get whiter whites and blacker blacks. you can even do 1/25 for a bit more pop. You do risk losing your mids these ways though.
but trying to get an XP2 look, I would try Delta 400, 1/50 standard dev. I find Delta holds its mid tones a little better than HP5.
HC-110 will work to give you your contrast and preserve your mids but I would mix it slightly stronger than recommended.
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>>2737059
https://www.flickr.com/search/?text=hp5%20hc-110%201600
also, b&h ship to europe with dhl, you should order from them if you can't find what you're looking for on european sites
>>2733953
>opinions?
The best camera
/thread
>>2737126
>a little flat for my liking.
Rodinal is very active, especially if you're using lower dilutions, like 1:25.
I would suggest that you rate your HP5 a little faster if you want more contrast.
Try shooting half a roll at 800, and half a roll at 1600, and developing as per normal in rodinal.
>>2737126
Was that Edinburgh Apple store?
>>2737248
I sold mine after about a year. I don't like shutter priority (I'd much rather have aperture priority if I wanted to shoot auto) & no metering in manual is a bit shit.
>>2737293
Not that anon, but that is definitely the Edinburgh store.
>>2733953
i have this and love it
is the black japanese one worth it?
>>2737066
Ordered the legacypro version today because I'm a sucker for savings. Beeen using R09 for a while now so I figured it was time for a change.
>>2737445
Well it costs extra for the exact same camera with a cosmetic change so obviously no it's not worth it, but it does look really nice so if you like it buy it I guess.
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>>2737651
I heard that the glass and build qulity are a bit better
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KMBkm-zOANA ..
>>2737673
Sounds like bullshit but I guess I don't know for sure. Usually with older cameras the black paint was an extra that you had to request/special order from the dealer, they were maybe a bit more expensive but usually around the same price and they weren't really supposed to be super special or anything. Black versions of cameras only became really desirable later because they're usually much more rare than chrome.
For instance, Leica collectors will gladly fight each other to the death and pay exorbitant amounts for a black M3 because only a few thousand were made. It only cost a few dollars extra to get it in black new but few people did it especially because the black paint was shit and would rub right off at nothing.
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>>2737693
if you dont know the silver ones were made in taiwan and the black ones were made in japan
>>2737940
Only the GIII silver ones were made in Taiwan, IIRC. All previous models were made in Japan.
>>2736338
i used ilfosol 3, the fixer is from a tanker that we re use. i use the schools darkroom and they have this tank where we use the fixer and pour it back again lol
scanned with the epson v7500 tiff at 5k dpi i think
>>2737126
When developing ilford films, massive dev. chart time/dilution works quite well, falling on the contrasty side. I used 11min+some seconds at 20c, it came out nicely (pic related). Anyway, if you have already stand developed hp5 and you're thinking it came out nicely, but only lacking a bit of punch; you could turn it into a semi-stand for more punch, turning the tank over a few times (30s~60s) every 20min or such. It usually works quite well...
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OP here. Just picked up an M3 and a colapsible summicron 50. Around $925 total. Should be here any day now. I'm way too excited and I only wish I had payed extra for shipping so it would get here sooner.
>>2738557
Enjoy how suprisingly big and heavy it is, enjoy trying to load that garbage, trying to frame shots with parallax error, focusing and recomposing, getting back your first roll and discovering why cameras have had meters for the last 50 years, oh shit the lens cap, oh shit I forgot to extend the lens, oh shit the collapsible 'cron is softer than a $15 soviet tessar clone...
>>2738583
>>2738596
Oh, I forgot to add
>and really enjoy when after the 3rd roll, and just generally being disappointed with the sharpness, discovering that in fact the RF is out of alignment and you need to pay some old cunt to break the seal and adjust that shit for you
Torn between medium format SLrs and rangefinders, for RFs I'm considering the Mamiya Press, Koni Omega, Russian folders, and the Fujica g690(not the plasticky GW, but the old one with interchangeable lenses)
>>2738684
>hasn't used a GW/GSW
>definitely hasn't used a ruski folder
>>2738583
Imagine being this envious of a person you have never met
>>2738710
Imagine spending a thousand dollars on a meme camera only to find it's worse in every conceivable way than my $30 OM20, my $20 EM, my $40 T-3, my $40 ME Super, my $20 AE-1P, etc etc etc.
>>2738721
>M3
>it's worse in every conceivable way than my $30 OM20, my $20 EM, my $40 T-3, my $40 ME Super, my $20 AE-1P
topkek
>>2738722
>didn't name a way the Leica is better
>can't
>>2734195
Damn they are that cheap now? I sold my body + 75mm for $1000, 150mm for $300, and 50mm for $800 about 2 years ago. I suppose splitting it up helped a bit. Film prices going up must be pulling the camera values down a bit...
>>2738694
>not knowing what came before the GWs
This seems more suited to this thread than the gear thread.
Is a 50mm much better than the equivalent Summarit to warrant the additional cost? I only shoot black and white and do not care about the extra half stop the Summacron provides only image quality and contrast
Old film fag here.
Base. Content and Exposure problems visible on negs/prints. Problem with the taking of the pic, the gear, the exposure etc.
Unexpected problems if all taking and exposure is good - in dev stage.
This applies to colour and B/W.
Grain excessive - over agitation of film in tank.
Thin negs - chems too hot.
Solved - get all temps totally right. Get all times totally right. Fin dcharts on agitation from tank manufacturer. Always, always use fresh dev, fresh fix, purified water - otherwise you're making problems. Happy 2016.
>>2738725
>>didn't name a way the Leica is better
how about every conceivable one.
>>2738864
with the modern lenses, wide open the cron will be better than the Summarit, by 5.6 the lenses will be almost indistinguishable.
I assume the older glass had similar performance comparisons. might catch up at f8, still a good lens.
>>2739194
The Leica is a superior luxury-consumer-bauble, which better conveys the wealth and status of its owner.
If you want to, you know, use a fast sharp 50mm lense to correctly frame, focus and expose an image on a piece of 35mm film, a Japanese SLR with an accurate meter and a multicoated first-party 50/1.8 is a better tool.
>>2738684
Man I would love an answer to this as well, I just don't love the ergonomics of shooting a TLR. Pentacks 6x7 or some Bronica box, or e.g. a Fuji RF of some sort.
I kinda love how clumsy and awkward the Pentacks looks, but I know it's fucking heavy too...
>>2738684
>>2739287
Ive owned both a Mamiya 6 and Bronica SQ-A so I'll weight in a bit. In the end I sold the 6 and kept the SQ-A because for me, shooting with an SLR is more personally enjoyable and fits my shooting style better.
First, I disliked using a viewfinder. The waist level spoiled me and I don't think I could ever be satisfied with a rangefinder. Using split focus screen is my preferred method of focusing and I enjoy seeing the DOF change as I focus.
Second and related to the first point, I am very precise with my compositions and where things fall in relation to each other within the frame. Parallax error was enough to cause minor changes to compositions I meticulously planned when shooting with the 6. The SLR's ability to be 100% accurate with composition works better for my shooting style too. These two points are important to consider so reflect on how you shoot. For lots of people these things probably don't matter at all.
Ease of use was equal between the two. When out shooting I always keep my camera in my hand by my side (dislike having it hang off my neck). I can comfortably palm the SQA in my hand while walking and the 6 has the traditional grip you can hold onto.
Both cameras weighed about the same. Weight and space savings came into play once I started carrying around multiple lenses as SLR lenses are much bigger and heavier.
The ability to have multiple film backs with an SLR also suits me better. I have 5 backs and can usually pick from shooting with bw, low ISO c41, high ISO c41, and e6 before going out. This is great because I could shoot Portra 160 one day and the next go out at twilight and shoot 800z without needing to finish a roll.
So there's my two cents. I can elaborate if anyone wants.
>>2739309
>The ability to have multiple film backs with an SLR also suits me better.
See, for me, and I think for most people who are past the extreme gearfagging stage of rolling through stacks of cameras and film stocks to work out what you like, that's a bit of a non-issue.
My big camera is loaded with the film stock I want to use it with 24/7, because I only use it for that kind of work.
>>2739223
that's really not true tho unless you shoot only in bright daylight.
>>2739314
Bronica guy here. Have 3 different film backs.
Depending on what the weather is like, I may decide to use Velvia, Ektar, or Portra. It's nice to have options on the fly.
Sometimes I just take the camera without the other lenses or backs though.
It depends.
>>2739314
I'm the dude you quoted.
I almost always shoot Across for bw and Portra for color. It's rare for me to use E6 or high ISO film but having the option is nice. I think many people would enjoy at least having the option to switch between bw and color. I also rarely ever take more than 1 back when I got out shooting. By then I can figure what the light conditions and weather are like. The rest of the backs stay home. I'm a 1 film, 1 lens type of shooter once I'm out.
>>2739332
>I'm a 1 film, 1 lens type of shooter once I'm out.
thats the patrician approach.
>>2739309
The Koni Omega and Mamiya Press both have interchangeable back systems, though neither offer any kind of magnifier for fine focusing aid, which would have made it much easier to focus
>>2739309
wait you picked a bronica over a mamiya 6??
LOL you fucked that up. your photos probably suck shit
>>2738750
Well I got my stuff no where near mint. My summicron has some coating damage and a scuff although I heard that the earlier few models had a super soft front element. Shouldn't be a big problem for image quality but that's why the value is so low. The M3 has yet to arrive so I'm not sure what kind of shape it is in cosmetically. It should be working great mechanically but I expect some scratches and dings.
>>2739309
>>2739314
>>2739325
>>2739332
unless someone has had multiple backs they probably wouldn't understand the advantages.
I have 2 for my blad, I sometimes put portra in one and HP5 in the other, but another nice thing is having both with the same stock especially for studio. shooting 12 shots and stopping to reload can be annoying if you are on a roll (no pun intended), and that extra 12 can help get the keeper shot.
>>2739314
or maybe people who want to shoot b&w and color without having to finish a roll each time they want to switch
>>2738583
>tfw bought an M3
>tfw sold it for more than I bought it and picked up an M6 instead
Best decision of my life.
>>2734298
I just got one of those, it's pretty sweet. Fucking huge and heavy though. Now I've got the fuji bug and really want one of these (which is actually rebranded fuji.)
>>2741387
Just got a great deal on an Xpan II before Christmas. Put a few rolls through it so far and it's great fun to shoot but composing for panoramic is quite challenging
>>2741387
looks like a wider variant i' an xpro 2
jis buy an xpro 2 freen
>>2741406
Xpro isn't panoramic
>>2741427
I've seen some really good Street shots with them in the Xpan flickr group
>>2741225
>what ken giveth, ken also taketh away for a profit
>ken is love, ken is life
Have you considered donating a portion of your return to his growing family?
![23099699376_8257963857_b[1].jpg](https://i.imgur.com/nHdNROv.jpg "23099699376_8257963857_b[1].jpg")
>>2741427
>>2741452
Really like this one, I think if he crouched down and shot it more level with the kids' height it would be better though
>>2741427
I have run about 3-4 rolls through a friends, interesting camera and fairly simple to use but I would get tired of the pano aspect quite fast. Switched to 3:2 it is just a rather large rangefinder with a nice meter and expensive lenses
>>2733676
Or the Konica IIIM, comes with a light meter, and other small features
Question pls
when i push the iso up on the leica r4, the lightmeter reacts to it and lets me shoot for example f16 1/1000
but when i do the same on the contax g2, it still gives me lowlight numbers i.e. f5,6 1/250
>>2742441
different metering mode I guess
>>2742441
is the G2 reading the DX code of a roll of film?
>>2742493
it does, the manual says so...either that or you manually enter the iso and confirm it with the af button. it has lots of electronic...rewinding film AF etc...
>>2742498
perhaps it is not changing because a roll is in it, the manual adjustment may only be for film without a DX. you may just need to adjust the exposure comp if you want to rate your film different.
If you have the cash, a Leica is always the best. No two ways about. But here's the thing, there's another brand called Voigtlander that uses the same lens mount. So you can use the amazing Leica glass with a body that you can pick up for around 300 bucks. I recommend the Bessa r2. I own one and it's my go to street camera!
>>2733688
мepзocть.
go back to capitalist glory hole you came from. tovarisch dzerzhinsky would kill himself for this if he wouldn't be dead already.
pic related, my ФĐĐ”.
>>2733744
>>2733746
>>2733751
>>2733752
>>2733753
>>2733754
>>2733869
i recommend to look into the zorki 4k due to the spanner. the fed-3 does a great job too but odd handling desu.
the 50 and 35 mm jupiter are beautiful lenses for lot of bang for little buck.
generally these really cheap and offer a start into rangefinders if you want to go for a leica-ish type.
beyond that: canon ae1 any given day. adore it and the a1.
>>2742895
тoвapищ aнoн, since you have the FED2, tell me, does the wider rangefinder widnows distance increase focusing accuracy compared to the later, narrower models? (fed 4,5, zorki4 etc)
Just aligned the rangefinder on my Fed 2, I need to do a test roll. Too bad the store I go to is all out of TriX and Hp5.
>>2742895
V'PUT! Lol I only did it because it was over the top Soviet as all of their propaganda posters were in the 50s lol
>>2743161
26m user here, love it. It's pretty smooth and fits well in the hands. Optics are razor sharp, no reason to not love it. If you don't need the extra stop of the Jupiter 3? 50 f2 or the Summikronakov 50 1.5 then totally get it.
>>2743220
I'm thinking about getting another 50mm. Already got some Jupiter 8, but I somehow don't like the feel of it. It has a single screw sticking out a little at the aperture ring and another one missing. These screws just suck and I cannot find any replacement screws.
Just tried to repair my Industar-61 again.. opened it, did full CLA again and put it back together. Tested it on my rangefinder and focused on some window. Focus scale showed something between 3-4m (same for the Jupiter). Then I put it on the Fuji and focused on the same window, checked the focus scale and it was sharp at 1.7m.
Considering either one of the faster Industars.. or I just go for some Canon LTM or stay at CV and get the Nokton. Too many possibilities for me to decide right now.
After research and reading here I've decided to buy a Fed 3 (Obviously not OP) and its shipping now.
Any tips on guessing exposures?
I've tried on my DSLR in manual with sunny 16 and have got decent results, and my compensation is probably close enough for negatives, but if you guys have any tips that would be very helpful.
>>2743419
Also any tips on the FED 3 as well thanks.
>>2743419
If the Fed doesn't work you can always use it as a hammer or to club a Leica owner over the head to get a proper working camera.
>>2743436
thanks for the tip senpai
>>2743419
1.) Buy a CdS lightmeter.
2.) Only set shutter times AFTER cocking the shutter, you can break the mechanism otherwise.
3.) Buy a CdS lightmeter. Only lolography retards settle for guesstimating exposure, unless you live on the equator and only plan on taking overexposed snaphits sunny16 is no substitute.
People stop needing lightmeters only after a serious amount of experience. Don't be a faggot, old lightmeters are dirt cheap.
4.) Beware parralax on your fed3 viewfinder when framing shots closer than 2m/7feet.
>>2743502
>People stop needing lightmeters only after a serious amount of experience
I plan on getting a lightmeter, will my 550D substitute if its with me for the time being?
And will a cheap meter do?
>>2743528
Do you have a smartphone. The Light meter Free app consistently gave the same reading as my Sekonic l-308. I eventually sold the meter and just use my phone now
>>2743529
I do have a smartphone.
If it gave you readings on par with a Sekonic I might try my phone against a friends lightmeter and use that if its good enough.
>>2743531
This varies on your phone (not just the model). My dad and I have the exact same phone and the same light meter app, my phone is three stops over and his is spot on.
>>2743540
well fuck, ill have to test
>>2743542
They seem to be consistent at least but check with a camera or light meter and figure out if/how much you need to compensate
>>2743540
Good call. This was with an iPhone 4S.
At least on my iPhone 4S, the free light meter app I use is consistently good. No need for an external meter.
How hard is it to frame with the Jupiter 12 without an external finder? I've a stock Industar 26M and a Jupiter 8 that's sadly in pretty bad condition. Neither of the lenses really feel good to me desu
Forget the older SP RC RD series.
Get your mitts on one of the finest pocket rangefinders ever made.
Lens will astound you on colour neg or HP5.
Olympus XA - no other, not the XA1/2/3 etc,the XA with an A11 flash. The A16 flash is cumbersome. This camera earend me shedloads of dosh back in the 1990s. Without flash just a bit heavier than a packet of fags.
>>2743573
CLA them, it's very easy to do.
>>2743658
this
those old Soviet lenses were assembled by juvenile delinquent labor they are quite simple to CLA, did my 85/2 by myself
those lenses hark back to designs from the 1930's they are simple to do.
>>2741387
>tfw no Xpan
>tfw own Leica
>tfw own lots of fuji gear
>tfw delved into Medium Format
I don't know what it is, but the Xpan just seems like a bigger investment. If it was fully mechanical or had a large number of parts available I would definitely be thrilled.
>>2741427
I have a Mamiya 645 and tomorrow I should get a 135 back with the panoramic slide. I know that the 645 only print the image onto part of a 35mm frame but I want to consider experimenting and maybe "destroying" a back to see if I can get a similar effect.
>>2743658
Will it help in my case though? I mean, the Jupiter 8 is scratched to hell. They are worst on one of the inside lenses, possibly from a heavy handed cleaning or the aperture blades scraping against it.
The Industar 26 is all clean, I got the Fed 2 + that lens as CLA'd, though I have to admit I'm not sure how well because the rangefinder was off. What I mean with not liking the feel is I would prefer a focus tab, with the Jupiter there's some play in the focus on top of being scratched to hell.
I think I'll hunt for a collapsible Industar 22 actually, really liked the pictures I saw from that. The Industar 26 pics I've seen looked quite unimpressive IMO (soft, low contrast, didn't have character), which is why I would like something else.
[EXIF data available. Click here to show/hide.]
Camera-Specific Properties: Equipment Make Apple Camera Model iPhone 4S Camera Software VSCO Sensing Method One-Chip Color Area Focal Length (35mm Equiv) 35 mm Image-Specific Properties: Image Orientation Top, Left-Hand Horizontal Resolution 72 dpi Vertical Resolution 72 dpi Image Created 2016:01:14 18:45:20 Exposure Time 1/2304 sec F-Number f/2.4 Exposure Program Normal Program ISO Speed Rating 50 Lens Aperture f/2.4 Brightness 10.3 EV Exposure Bias 0 EV Metering Mode Spot Flash No Flash, Compulsory Focal Length 4.28 mm Color Space Information sRGB Image Width 449 Image Height 449 Exposure Mode Auto White Balance Auto Scene Capture Type Standard
>>2744295
Actually those aren't the scratches I mean, but the scratches & wear on the front element. Which I've understood aren't a big deal?
It's a bit hard to get a shot of the inside scratches that I mean, but here's another attempt.
[EXIF data available. Click here to show/hide.]
Camera-Specific Properties: Equipment Make Apple Camera Model iPhone 4S Camera Software VSCO Sensing Method One-Chip Color Area Focal Length (35mm Equiv) 35 mm Image-Specific Properties: Image Orientation Top, Left-Hand Horizontal Resolution 72 dpi Vertical Resolution 72 dpi Image Created 2016:01:14 19:07:20 Exposure Time 1/20 sec F-Number f/2.4 Exposure Program Normal Program ISO Speed Rating 100 Lens Aperture f/2.4 Brightness 2.3 EV Exposure Bias 0 EV Metering Mode Spot Flash No Flash, Compulsory Focal Length 4.28 mm Color Space Information sRGB Image Width 1377 Image Height 1377 Exposure Mode Auto White Balance Auto Scene Capture Type Standard
>>2743651
I saw one at a antique shop being sold for $70 and shuttered.
>>2744309
Those scratches are probably not affecting the IQ a big deal.
>>2744579
That's good to know. Also I just realized my girlfriend has a Fed and a Zorki, with Industar 50 and 61. So I guess that's plenty of FSU 50mm's. I just stuck a roll of Portra 800 in my Fed and will take some shots with all of them for comparison, then just roll with the one I like best.
>>2744295
>>2744309
scratches on the front element lower the contrast your lens produces, but rarely have any larger impact on the IQ as pointed out by >>2744579
But seriously, these go for about 50eur or cheaper.. so if you find these scratches to lower the IQ of your photos, then get a better copy. I sold my Industar-22.. didn't like using it.
But if you're considering some soviet glass with 3.5 aperture, I strongly recommend the Industar-50.
Example: https://www.flickr.com/photos/dipluridae/15510160086/in/dateposted-public/
>>2743651
just picked up an XA2
>>2743419
you can download a lightmeter app for your phone. apart from that just look at the weather and the light and try guessing it with your dslr in full manual.
i have the fed 4 and with just not using the metering with my dslr ive gotten good at guessing exposure after a few weeks.
also leave the shutter at 1/100 and change your aperture for conditions. its a good way of learning just what the apature does for your pics.
>>2743419
also depending on your past owner you might have to setup the range-finding mirror. focus at the moon one night and if the lens doesn't say infinity change it until it does.
>>2744607
congrats on the p&s
>>2744651
>look at the weather and the light and try guessing it with your dslr in full manual.
Been doing this for the last week, got good at it but only really works outdoors while the suns up.
Interiors are pretty easy at my house, but its not like im gonna take snapshits at my house considering the price of film in NZ.
>>2744658
not sure if sarcastic, but thanks
>>2744676
he wasn't sarcastic, that model is zone focusing, not rangefinder so practically a point and shoot
>>2736261
I love this photo.
>>2744694
still a good cam
>>2744652
How to adjust?
If you know thats good, ill probably have to look deep in google
>>2744694
I know, thats why I bought it
get a minolta cle
Anyone used the Ziess Sonnar 50mm? Wondering if the focus shift is really that bad
>>2744920
on the fed 3 theres an adjustment screw on the front face beside the mirror and when you take the lens off there's this hinge thingy that acts on the back on the lens that can be adjusted.
just google fed 3 adjustment and you should find plenty of info. i had to do this to my fed 4 when i got it now its pretty good on the focus.
>>2739534
Can't tell if bait or gearfag
3/10 cause I was triggered enough to reply
jupiter-3 is best
>>2745827
Assuming it's not solely for show, how reliable is the exposure table?
>>2745827
show a photo taken with it.
