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Hello /p/. How do I become a master of exposure and a steady
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Hello /p/. How do I become a master of exposure and a steady hand? I am an aspiring filmmaker and am going to be shooting a lot of stuff on my own so I need to improve in all aspects of photography. I've been fooling around with a DSLR for about a year now and still cannot manage to get where I want to be in terms of quality. No matter what I do, it seems that something is always getting blown out.

And whenever I try to take still photos, they end up blurry no matter what shutter speed I shoot at. Pls no bully for the love of god, I want to get better at this but I'm just confused as to how to go about doing so.

Sorry for no original pic.
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>>2719170
shoot something right now at 1/250 and post here. I want to see that blurriness
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>>2719170
> master of exposure
Any decent DSLR / MILC knows the basics. If you bought something with decent DR, you can also fix this to a tremendous amount in post, no problem.

> and a steady hand
Decent IS, and a gyro if necessary? Or just a tripod or monopod.

1/200 - 1/300 or whatever also does the trick, if that's acceptable for shooting conditions present and your camera/lens combo.

> And whenever I try to take still photos, they end up blurry no matter what shutter speed I shoot at.
They shouldn't in general, but maybe you're shooting with a cheap craptastic lens.

Actually, most lenses are relatively poor when you shoot them wide open, for that not to be the case you usually pay a pretty hefty premium. Take them 1-2 stops down and the good ones are near perfectly sharp.
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>>2719174
This. Post some photos you've taken in good light, with correct settings. We'll help from there.

>>2719170
If your camera isn't broken, reading your manual should give you all the skills you need to achieve a non-blurry photo.

Also, don't stop down to f/36 for "DOF"
(It's ridiculous to say, but it's been a theme around here for a little while now, so it's worth mentioning)
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>>2719170
>steady hand?

Squeeze your elbows tight against your body.

Rest the camera on your left hand, with the palm of your left hand facing up.

Use the viewfinder, and squeeze the camera against your face.
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>>2719175
>Any decent DSLR / MILC knows the basics.

No it doesn't.

The meter simply aims for a mid-tone.
Without compensating a black cat in the dark will look as bright as a polar bear in the snow.
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>>2719201
Unless you're spot metering ON the cat, your camera will still do a pretty great job. Metering systems have come a LONG way.
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>>2719202
Nope, wrong.

When the entire scene is dark it will come out as mid gray.

Doesn't matter if you use spot, center weighted or matrix metering.
The camera has no idea what you're trying to photograph so it will simply aim for something in the middle.
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>tfw novice and don't even know how to properly use in camera spot meter
>>
>>2719203
>>2719203
No, even that will generally work just fine on a decent camera.

But if it still happens on yours, I guess you get to correct this extreme corner cases at times.

The basics and more are still covered anyways. I mean, at worst, if you can't figure it out, you can try to throw a flash into that dark area anyways.
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>>2719176
>stop down to f/36 for dat 1930's softness
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>>2719228
>No, even that will generally work just fine on a decent camera.

lol no. read the manual for literally any camera. Spot always meters to 18%. Always.

The only metering mode that has any sort of inference into the scene is Evaluative/Multi-Meter/Whatever you want to call it.

Everything else (center, average, spot) is just varying areas of 18% gray. This is super basic stuff, too, so maybe you ought to reconsider giving "advice" if you don't even know this.
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>>2722025
literally nobody said to use the spot meter. in fact, >>2719202 said UNLESS you use the spot meter, you won't have these problems. evaluative metering has been doing just fine since the 90s.

learn to read.
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