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This is my newbie camera buying guide for this holiday as I'm
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File: 1 parfumerie fragonard.jpg (438 KB, 1500x1000) Image search: [Google]
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This is my newbie camera buying guide for this holiday as I'm a typical 4channer and I assume my thought process will be closer to that of most of you unlike most review sites. Also it would be sad to let 3-4 weeks of camera research go to waste.
One small mention, I did not take into account "fluff" features such as GPS, wi-fi, touchscreen, smartphone apps, etc. Just the capability to produce good pictures.

I'll list types of photographers and recommend cameras.

1. Family, tourist, general photographer.
You don't care about some specific technology you just want a camera that takes good pictures, performs well (autofocus, battery life) and is not too much of a pain to handle (size, weight, shape).

Nikon D3300(500$) or D3200(420$)
-DSLR body.
-APS-C sensor, 24mpix.
-optical viewfinder.
Cheaper alternatives: Canon 100D(400$) or 1200D(350$).

Sony a6000(~600$)
-mirrorless body.
-APS-C sensor, 24mpix.
-electronic viewfinder.
-tilting LCD

Samsung NX500(600$)
-mirrorless body.
-APS-C sensor, 28mpix.
-no viewfinder.
-tilting LCD.
-4k filming

Notes:
They are all practically the same size.
They are all the SAME weight give or take 100g.
The DSLRs have much longer battery life.
The mirrorless have better live view and the electronic viewfinder is good for beginners.
The megapixel count means nothing.
The kit lenses will do just fine for you.
Personally I'd get the Nikon.

Expensive alternatives: Don't waste your money.

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>>
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2 The street photographer.

You want two things:
-good "preconfigurability". Things like iso,apperture,shutter speed limits but also quick access to manual controls.
-a camera that is inconspicuous and pocketable so you can carry it around all the time, everywhere.

Panasonic Lumix GX7, (600$)
-mirrorless body.
-m4/3 sensor, 16mpix.
-electronic viewfinder.
-tilting lcd.
-silent electronic shutter.

Alternatives: Panasonic GM5(no viewfinder, 600$), GF7(bit bigger, 500$), Olympus OM10(not silent, 500$)

Lenses: 20mm(40mm equiv) f1.8 pancake costs 250$.

Fujifilm X-T10 (800$)
-mirrorless body.
-APS-C sensor, 16mpix.
-electronic viewfinder.
-tilting lcd.
-silent electronic shutter.
-fuji magic.

Alternatives: none. This is the sole camera under 1000$ with an aps-c sensor and a silent shutter. The others are 3000$ Sony a7rII or a7s.

Lenses: 27mm(41.5mm equiv) f2.8 pancake costs 400$

Lenses are not that many and they are all twice as expensive as the competition, though they are good lenses.
People won't mind you taking their picture because it's a Fuji.

Samsung NX500 (600$)*
-see previous post for specs

*This is only here as an alternative for the weak/lazy. You can shoot 4k and grab stills from that and they will be "good enough". It will thus allow you to "take pictures" without using your hands and of course in perfect silence.
However, the 4k filming is on a 2.6x crop meaning your 35mm will be a ~89mm instead of a 50mm equiv.

Lenses: Cheap.

Notes:
These cameras are only pocketable with pancake lenses.
The silent electronic shutter is a rare-ish feature and is completly silent.
In broad daylight the LCD is useless.
The m4/3 sensors are "good enough". After a few runs you will quickly realise that 95% of the time if a picture is bad it's because it's incorrectly exposed, out of focus or blurred due to slow shutter speed. So don't sweat the slight noise.
The GX7 is probably the best value/money. Get the Fuji if you can though.

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>>
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3 The super creep.
AKA Iggy style.

Buy an entry-level DSLR like Nikon D3300(500$) and get a cheap zoom like 55-200(84-300mm equiv) VR(stabilized) II. This lense will produce better pictures than the fastest prime in situations where getting close enough with the prime would have been difficult or impossible, which is what you are going for.
Always mind the shutter sound. If you think the shutter-sound might be a problem follow the street guide above and get the fuji because it does offer a cheap 50-230mm(75-340mm equiv) lens. Another perfect alternative is the nx500 and the crop zoom 4K filming will actually help, a 50-200mm for you will become ~125-500mm equiv.
Never ever attempt to act like a normal street photographer, they will see through you. Stay inside your car (locked doors and key in contact ready to go) or rented hotel room with a view towards the beach / pool.
Get a camera bag that doesn't look like a camera bag.
Use a tripod and be careful when going on the balcony as that is considered semi-outside territory which might cause you an anxiety attack.

...in all seriousness you probably don't need to do this. Just do street, act like it's normal and shoot from the hip when you have doubts. It may help to live in a non-puritan country. Anything outside America, England, Australia and Canada is fine.

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>>
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4 Candid Enthusiast.
This is me, just want to capture moments of my day.

What camera did I buy? Fujifilm X-T10.
Why? Only aps-c camera under 1000$ with silent shutter.

So how is it?
Let me start with some critique:
Lens selection blows. 27mm f2.8, 35mm f2.0 and 50-230mm f3.5-6.7 are the only affordable ones for 400$ each.
Focus takes ~1s in dark room. Under 0.5s with light turned on. Instant in daylight.
Like all mirrorless, battery is shit. About 2-3 hours of walking around shooting raw, ~200 pictures.

Other than that:
As mentioned, the 16mpx are realistically more than enough. IQ is amazing.
The camera is pretty much perfect in it's configurability. You can set it so that if you turn the manual zoom ring, after auto-focusing, it directly goes into manual focus zoom and highlight assist.
Auto iso and shutter speed seem to always prioritize low iso and high shutter speed when exposing, which is what I want it to do. Because it's a Fuji there is a physical shutterspeed dial if I want to set it manually. If I had a better lens there would also be a physical apperture dial, as it stands I have to rotate the back wheel like on a Nikon in A mode.
It seems to underexpose (by ~1 stop) people in shadow with bright backgrounds(when face detect is off, and metering is on average) and the exposure compensation wheel is a bit stiff to turn. I shoot raw anyway but still.
The in-camera raw conversion is quick and useful if you just want basics like exposure and colour.
The JPEGs are nice but, ofc, you should always shoot raw. "Fuji colors" just means nice skin and green leafs.
When viewing pictures you can scroll the front wheel to go to the next one even if you are zoomed in(with the back wheel). You can also press the back wheel to instantly zoom to max to pixel peep.
Finally, it's designed for taking photos. No GPS, no touchscreen, wi-fi is there but not emphasized, video is there but not emphasized.

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>>
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The pictures are all from the fuji with the kit lens. Some may look weird because it was my first time editing a raw file.

I should also talk about the raw files. Alledgedly lightroom is not to great at working with raws from the x-trans sensor. I'm on linux and use Raw Therapee(available for all platforms) which I've heard is better at this. Here is what I do on almost any picture:
Sharpen with RL Deconvolution to make foliage useable. Minimum radius.
Avoid more than +1 exposure on very dark pictures.
Up Blacks and Contrast just a bit.
Use a tone curve that is a bit lowered in the first half.
Noise reduction:
- set chrominance 30-60(out of 100) for pictures with dark areas.
- set luminance 5(out of 100) AT MOST. There is a lot of detail in the image and you loose it if you set more.
Use a gradient filter on lanscapes to make the sky blue again.
Vignette correction +30.

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>>
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The kit lens even has some limited macro capability, about 15cm minimum focus distance.
I sure am glad that exifs don't show where the focus point was.

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>>
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Have some nice DoF.
And this is all I got, feel free to use this as a gear/fuji worship thread.

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>>
>Bossy narcissist posts shit photos while giving advice

Yep, this is /p/ alright.
>>
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>>2712136
Yeah, on second thought, scratch everything I said.
Just buy a used Pentax (any model they're all amazing and so underrated), smear some peanut butter on the sensor, shove the lens up your ass and you're all set.

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>>
After some research I was thinking of picking up an A6000. However, the lens it comes with gets a lot of hate. What do you think of the 16-50mm f/3.5-5.6 OSS Zoom Lens and what should I look to replace it with in the future.

I'd be looking to use it for just general pictures.
>>
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>>2714906
I've looked a bit more specifically into the a6000.
The kit is slow to become functional, ~2 seconds, if you care. As for image quality it seems like it has a lot of "weird" drops in quality. As in it's sharp at 16mm f3.5 then less sharp at f4.0 and f5.6 then sharp again at f8.0. This happens again for 18mm and 20mm. And this is for the center. The edges feel a bit soft even at f8.0.
See pic related for difference in quality in the center at f8.0: the left is a 50mm prime and the right is the kit lens at 50mm.
source: http://www.dpreview.com/forums/thread/3671891

For replacing it, if you don't plan on taking too many landscape or other settings where you may want a wide shot then the 35mm f1.8 should be just perfect for making the most of those 24 megapickles on your great sensor.

All this being said, when you frame your subject properly, so it is filling the frame, and you have good light, there will be little difference between a 4000$ set-up and a 200$ compact. At a resolution under 12 megapixels that is. If you can get the body and the 35mm f1.8 at the same time, do so, if not just get the kit lens so you can play around for a bit while you decide on a prime.
>>
>>2712097
why no x100

>>2712098
Nikon 1 + Ft-1 adapter

>>2712455
this entire thread pretty much is your narcissism tho
>>
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>>2715008
>why no x100
I chose to focus mainly on recent-ish cameras. Mainly because I know nothing about models older than 2 years. I mean sure, why not, the x100 should be similar in quality to the xt10 and it's also somewhat silent because of the leaf shutter. Brand new it's still ~800$ though isn't it ?

>narcissism
I collected the facts for this thread during several weeks. I stitched them up together with some personal opinions in 3-4 hours. I did actually rewrite parts of it to sound less subjective. I stated some of my opinions in the form of "you want" or "you have to", which was crude. I also presented some ideas as if they were facts which was presumtious. But, although I stand by what I said, I never meant to discourage people from contradicting me. I posted giant walls of text because there was a lot of info. Post enhanchements.(Like you already did.)

Never said my pictures were good btw, hell I have an experience of about 2000 shots at most, most of which were snapshits with a 200$ compact.

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>>
>>2715007
Cheers man! I'm really new to all of this so I don't understand a lot of what I see around so I can't thank you enough for the information.
Thread replies: 14
Thread images: 10

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