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shooting people in low light
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I was asked to shoot a wedding at the weekend, it was ok but I struggled to photograph people in the dim light of the evening reception. I used flash of course but it killed off all the ambient light and the resulting shots had no atmosphere. I tried turning off flash and cranking up the ISO, this worked to keep the ambient lighting but the skin tones were all over the place - red, purple, green from the disco lights.
How do I shoot like pic related? How is it so well exposed and so well balanced?

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>>
You want to be using a moderately high ISO, and if needed you can use a slower shutter speed than you usually would handheld to expose the ambient light. Your subjects are then exposed using flash, which you set to 'rear-curtain'. The rear-curtain mode will expose the ambient light first before triggering the flash, and the short duration of the flash itself freezes the subjects so the slow shutter speed (perhaps 1/20 at 50mm) shouldn't produce any motion blur from camera shake. The flash you use should be from a flashgun and either bounced off a light ceiling/wall or diffused using a dome or bounce card as direct light will be too flat and harsh
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>>2881048
slow sync flash

yw

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>>2881065
>>2881058

OP here, I get that you should expose for the ambient light first then flash to freeze the subject. My problem was that the flash was illuminating too big an area of the room, bouncing off the low ceiling. I suppose I should have zoomed the flash in so it's more localised in effect and probably gel it orange to better match the ambient light.
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buy a diffuser
slow sync
test on someone first
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>>2881079
I was using a stofen but that spreads the light out, I want it more localised. Think a flash bracket would help too.
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>>2881071
you could also try you know, lowering the flash output
>>
get a rogue flashbender, tilt flashgun head upwards, bend the flashbender forwards, shoot in 1st curtain

or use a bare flash in 2nd curtain
>>
all this said, if you're taking candid shots just let people be whatever color the disco lights make them. Looks more spontaneous and "real". Your choice though.
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>>2881128
I was already -2 on ETTL, the problem was not the amount of light but controlling it.

>>2881133
Yeah, I'm looking at those now, they can act almost as a snoot to funnel the light.
>>
How fast is your fastest lens? A 50mm 1.8 is a must, ideally you go with a 50 and 85 1.4 (samyang lenses rule, just learn to mf)
>>
I did this a few times. Found the following to be best.

1. Set ISO so the background is like 1 stop or so underexposed with f/4 -5.6 and somewhere like 1/125sec +/-

2. First flash on camera with a white forward bounce reflector

3. In left hand, held out high and right is a wireless flash with a modest sized softbox or diffuser

4. Set the ratio 2:1 or 3:1 with the off camera flash brighter.

Shooting requires fast decisions on flash exposure compensation and usually best if you use the AEL lock feature to aboid getting ficked up exposures from funky dresses, etc
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I work at party and events.

So, you need your flash to bounce, don't make it direct to the subject, even with diffuse or softbox (believe me, there are some people going to parties with heads softbox).

You need your background to be well exposed to0, but, you'll need a very low noise! Time to low your ISO to your 'ok measures', I like to let it between 100-1600, some very hard occasions, higher because of really dark background!
Because of your low ISO settings, you will need a lower shutter speed also, it's your taste, mine is about 'bulb' or 1/10 (I like light painting), "but, wut about muh sharpness?" relax kiddo, the flash will do it for you!

Set your flash to -2 TTL or just, give it some manual tries.

Before you turn on your flash, give some shots until you find a nice background, them, turn on your flash and set it to your tastes. remember of low contrast give you better skin tone.

Protect your camera from all the boose that are going to fall on it.

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>>2881240

forgot about aperture; give a try for closer apertures, 5.6 or smaller, it will get you more people on the same shot.
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>>2881240
>>2881242
great writeup. questions - what are you bouncing your flash off of in a club/bar? Ceiling? Reflector?
Are you using softbox for your speedlite?
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>>2881247

my fav is ceiling, but I often use both for shooting, the light came soft and get the whole subject. the inner speedlite reflector is great when you can use to bounce with the ceiling or some walls. you can use bigger reflectors when the house have some high ceiling and the light came too weak when bounced back.

No, I don't. softbox with drunk people is a bad idea.

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How's the set-up;

Body: Canon EOS 6D
Flash: Speedlite 430EX II (Stofen Omni)
UUWA: Sigma 12-24mm f/4.5-5.6 DG II HSM
UWA: Canon EF 17-40mm f/4L USM
Bokeh balls: Tamron 24-70mm f/2.8 VC USD

Haven't take either the Canon nor Sigma lenses to a job yet but they are looking promising.

Also very tempted to get a Tamron 15-30mm f/2.8 VC USD which is on sale at $650 by a local seller...
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>>2881240
>>2881251
24-70mm f/2.8? I was told by the media guys that I need to get a wider lens because they want more "dramatic" shots, hence why I've been buying up UWAs here >>2881274
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>>2881251
One thing I don't understand, and I am very new to photography is how the background will have so much motion blur but your subject will be clear in focus.People won't be standing still enough to shoot at 1/10 so how does this work?
Thanks in advance :)
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>>2881283
Second curtain on the flash. Means the flash activates at the end of the exposure length. Part of the frame beyond the range of the flash will blur out with movement (such as rotating the camera/lens) while those in range of the flash will be pin sharp.

It's kinda complicated to explain but yeah just give it ago.
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>>2881282
24-70mm f2.8 is the standard zoom to this kind of events, but you will be fine on the 24-35mm range for nightclub photography. Wider lens because you don't have much spare space in nightclubs or others parties, and you need to keep the group together to take the snap. A closer focus (15cm to 30cm) is another thing you must keep a mind on, exactly because of space.
You can aim for a 17mm if you want, or even a fisheye, it's your own style. I rather my prime 24mm because of light weight and possibility to make a better light painting when I have no space to shoot.

>>2881283
The flash light is way to strong than the ambient light when pointed direct to the subject. When it flash, it just froze the subject you focused on the first layer of your photo, so you're able to create any effect with your background. You need to learn how to properly use your speedlite for getting the better exposure on the first layer and let the background on the ambient and soft bounced light.
Sometimes it came out wrong when some lights get direct to your lens...

>pic related
a fucking white light direct to my lens and eyes!

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>>2881301
I have >>2881274 as my current events/club kit. I know the 12-24mm will probably be too extreme, but I find myself only using 24mm on my 24-70mm f/2.8 anyway. So I might get rid of the 17-40mm f/4L. Seems like an awkward lens considering my kit already.
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>>2881305

I would save this 17-40 for another kind of photography. It's a lens that had me think about migrate from Nikon to Canon because its IQ to landscape and price.

the 12-24 and 24-70 is perfect. you could explore that extreme you have.

very nice setup you own, anon
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>>2881313
Yeah I'm happy with the fact that I only paid $340 each for the Siggy and Canon lenses. I can't wait to use them in anger
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>>2881301
Is this on the right track?

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>>2881594
>>2881301
I think I've actually fallen in love with this technique.
Sharp image and nice ambient lit background is glorious. Can't wait to use it with people.

Am I doing it right? What else would you suggest to improve, besides getting a speedlight?

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>>2881596
>>2881594
These are just for testing slow sync flash. Am I doing it right?

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>>2881600
>>2881596
>>2881594
Here's another one, only with some small amount of ambiance reflecting from the carpet.
Am I on the right track?
Forgot to resize.

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>>2881594
>>2881596
>>2881600
>>2881611

you're doing fine. Your flash exposure is too strong, down just a bit and you'll get your dog a more soft tone without many harsh contrasts.
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>>2881282
I love my sigma 17-50mm/2.8

>>2881283
The duration the flash is on for is incredibly small, so anything lit by it is effectively exposed at a very high shutter speed, despite the fact that the actual shutter is open for much longer.
In effect, the flash duration BECOMES the exposuretime/shutterspeed.
>>
>>2881641
Could the same technique be used in bulb mode or shutter at 30+ seconds in extremely low light without over exposure? Say to illuminate a tree in an adtrophotography pic? I am keen to try but why wouldn't the subjects affected by the flash become highly overexposed after 30 seconds?
>>
Actual practical photography tips in here?
Best /p/ thread in months
>>
>>2881596
That dog has seen some shit
>>
>>2882898
yep
Obviously you will need to experiment though.
Thread replies: 34
Thread images: 11

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