/bbg/ - Bike Buying General
Old ones dead
Post bikes you're looking at, help others find a bike, general bike buying fun.
Currently looking at this centurion ironman, it's in very nice condition but I feel like 250 is a bit steep. What do you guys think?
Considering you'd have to get new brake hood rubbers and tires, I'd offer $200. But judging from the ad I don't think he'll go any lower. Guy seems to think it's some sort of holy grail. Plus those pedals are supposed to be used with clips, straps and special shoes.
Yeah I was going to try and get it for $200 but I'm willing to bet he won't go any lower. Everything's in nice condition but the price of swapping out the pedals and getting new tubes+pads just makes it way more than it's worth.
Seems to be similar size to the one in the OP, just gotta lower that stem.
Plenty of nice deals on your CL:
https://philadelphia.craigslist.org/bik/5651843866.html (this one is suspiciously too good of a deal)
I was thinking of buying that Fuji finest actually as well, I'd doesn't look like it was stolen, picture qualities too nice.
Not really the best evidence of it being a legitimate seller though.
I'm new to /n/, so I don't want to tell you how to run your board, but buying generals should have like a posting template to facilitate suggestions. /g/'s headphones general has this template as an example
>Preferred type of headphone
>Open or closed
>Preferred tonal balance
Anyway I want to buy a road bike for ~$500 just to get some exercise, but I have no idea where to start. I would appreciate suggestions for a good entry level bike, tips on what to look for in a bike, and info on pricing b/c I just pulled the $500 figure out of my ass. Thank you :)
I'm looking to procure a fixed gear bike, my current options are the eastway esaki t1, felt tk3 or an Avanti PIsta pro. Im not going be track racing. Theres an outdoor velodrome nearby that I may occasionally take it for a spin on but not club racing or anything serious but it wont be a hipster sled either. It will be a light commuter/training bike. Mostly ridden for fun but I want something solid, robust and reasonably fast. Can anyone give me a recommendation of the three or have any experience riding themr?
Hey idk if this is the right thread to post in but can you guys tell me if this is a good deal? Only ''cheap'' 1 i can find in Romania that got RPM meter on it.
Or can i do better?
Echowell Ui 20 - wireless
rec me some good platform pedals for mtb
i'm riding clipless right now but i feel like i'm forming bad habits with my fundamentals and i don't actually own platforms any more.
Two good options for road bikes right here. Your CL has a nice variety of stuff at reasonable prices.
>good parts i guess
I know shit about bikes
can someone help me identifying the manufacturer of that frame? Does it look like something of quality?
I need/want a new cx bike. the one I have is a cheap scat brand and really doesnt fit me very well. I want to set a limit of $1500, and am interested in possibly taking some of the parts off the cheap bike and transferring them to a newer frame or if I come across a good deal just get a brand new one.
thanks in advance for your suggestions
First time poster here. I'm going off to university soon and I've decided since I'll be living off campus, but within biking distance, it'd be a better alternative to a car. It's a pretty small town so distance isn't really an issue. I've only got about a $300 budget but I heard that buying vintage bikes isn't a terrible idea. Any idea what I should look for in terms of brand and maybe what kind of wear and tear is too much for a bike to be feasible? Any advice is appreciated.
My budget is around $1k-$1.5k
Should I be buying new or used? Currently have a $300 used bike I've been riding for about 3 years. Shimano 105 with RSX brifters. Would like an upgrade if possible.
on the blue one, that dt swiss fork new alone was like twice the money what you're asked for the bike
(it's not necessarily a '12 model to be exact, could as well be a year older or newer)
and the rest are decent too
the brown one is maybe a little newer judging by frame shapes. the '12 shimano xt crankset means the bike can be anywhere from '12 to '15. overall, probably similar or a little lower tier. the brake calipers look like some mid-low shimano ones, and I have no idea what fork that is, can't see shit of it.
If you have to ask, new. You can get a CAAD12 105 for that price. Used has a habit of turning into a money pit if you aren't exacting about thoroughly inspecting the bike for all of the shit that can go wrong.
My favorite was when I bought a used bike without taking the tires and rim tape off to inspect the rims, which wound up having corrosion on the inside.
>wants 700 dollars for a 2 decade old shitty hardtail
>damaged, needs tires
but, it's VINTAGE! :^)
Not much to say about the frame. Low-midrange Japanese steel from the 1980's.
Components are a mix of decent, mediocre, and a few things you will want to replace or remove immediately like the kickstand, stem shifters, and brake levers.
Looks to be in excellent condition.
It will be heavy but ride nice.
$200 seems a bit steep. $100-150 would be closer to the mark, imo.
Do BMC road bikes tend to run on the larger or smaller side? I've noticed that their frame geometries for 54 and 56 cm frames often exceed that of many other non-compact manufacturers by between 5-10 mm for an equivalently marked (54, 56. etc) sized frame
That upward sloping toptube seems like it'd contribute a bit to the extra height.
As long as the top tube is the right length, I'd imagine people would fit well with their regular frame size.
why and how such bikes end up in a shop with low income clientele? I mean sure a shop in such area could be selling second hand bikes with a smaller markup than a shop elsewhere. also, they could be selling lower tier bikes. still, I don't think the shop has got these for like 200 a piece.
but maybe I'm wrong with my scale here and nobody with higher than "low" income would buy such bikes second hand in Germany, they'd buy new; and these are just your average market prices for such ones.
well in my town its common practice by people of the low income class to dump all of their money into highend bikes ... like middle class people they kinda want to show off and since they cant afford a nice car they rather buy nice bikes I guess and so there are plenty good bikes on the used market
I was actually considering the CAAD, but currently have a carbon frame and fork so I was worried it would feel like a downgrade.
Do you know how the aluminum feels compared to low-end carbon?
Aaaaalright guys i been threadin and researchin and thinkin and jonesin and all kinds of things about which one of these mountain bikes im gonna get. Learned all about forks and sag and dampening and opposite of dampening and derailleurs and geometry and shifters and bottom brackets and hydros and all the things.
Im 6'4" and no damn bike shops have ANYTHING I CAN ACTUALLY RIDE AND FEEL OUT. Or, everything is SOLD OUT until NEXT YEARS MODEL comes out. I have reached peak frustration.
I was looking at high end trek marlins or low end trek xcals or rockhoppers (sold out). 2017 marlin 7 has a decent spec set for entry level at $830, but with that g2 how hard is it going to be to upgrade the fork
Tl,dr: how hard is it to upgrade the fork on a trek, preferably a secondhand air fork down the road, and a rant
Swapping a fork out is very easy to do, but buying a used air fork might not be a very good plan, only because you'll need to find one with a long (uncut) steerer tube to match your extra-large frame, and that will limit your options.
Also, I work for a Spec. dealer and we've already started getting/can order 2017 models on really basic bikes, the 2017 Rockhopper models aren't far behind (but I'd hold out for a Crave or a Ruse desu).
LBS has 2017 rockhoppers on the dealership website. Spec knocked $100 off their "sport" and downgraded from 9 to 8 spd. Only problem im not a huge fan of 2017 colors.
I was leaning hard toward the rockhopper because i wouldnt have to worry about g2 when i went to upgrade
I guess someone who knows shit about bikes and wants to show off will likely buy a brand new a lower-end bike of a shiny brand like specialized or trek (or whichever other brand is considered glam in a given location) than a used higher-tier one. these people don't affect the second hand market of good tier bikes
I´m sorry but i kinda lost track of the core of this conversation ... I was trying to explain that people in my town with low income usually buy new highend bikes and then sell them fairly cheap after 2+ years and since most people here don`t regulary buy used (at least not for 600+ €) there is a well saturated market market for these bikes which keeps the price low.
Guys, how is the Shimano 2300 groupset?
I found an Allez near me and I'm leaning towards buying it because I've only had older bikes, and I feel like it's time to move onto newer bikes, but all my bikes had 105s or better.
A modern low end Shimano should be as good as a 20 year old 105 groupset right?
I'm looking at buying an inexpensive mid-step or step-through electric bike for all-around use. Urban trails, commuting, groceries, everything.
I've narrowed it down to either:
1. Fuji mid-step bike ($500) + an electric front wheel ($900) 47lbs
2. Evelo Luna (1,400-1,900) 68lbs pic related
Are those good options?
No No no. The old 105 will be leaps and bounds better. The 2300 group is the bastard child of old school Sora. The 2300 components are department store tier
However, Sora 3500 (current generation) is comparable to some older 105 models imo.
And this is the kind of Fuji I was looking at. They also sell some similar ones in the 500 and 600USD range
>The 2300 components are department store tier
That's hardly fair. Even the bottom-level groupsets from Campag/Shimano/SRAM are perfectly usable. Not as good, sure, but not anywhere near department store-tier.
Pic related with the weird top-mounted shifters: now THAT'S department store-tier.
Find me a moped that weighs 47-66lbs, can fit right into the metro trains, doesn't require insurance, you can ride almost anywhere, and helps you exercise while you use it.
Then maybe I will, until then I'm looking at e-bikes.
So you want a vehicle that has the same capacity to damage people and property and hurt or kill you, you recognize the astronomically high risk as reflected in the insurance, but you want to use a loophole to avoid actually getting that insurance
Let's hope you inadvertently remove yourself from the gene pool
I'm sorry my parents are poor, I'll just shoot myself then eh?
How about instead of assuming I'm lazy, stupid, selfish, gay, in the market for a dirtbike, or unable to carry 60lbs, you just give me some advice on if the bikes I want are any good.
Damn that sucks, no insurance, or vehicle testing required here for 50cc scooters.
$1400, hell, $1000 (less used) would get you a fantastic lightweight commuter bicycle, rather than a heavy cheap piece of shit you're suggesting. As bicycles they are very poor, and will ride poorly.
If you're not worried about being seen as gay, get with the bicycle lifestyle! Fit, happy future you will be thankful.
Your parents aren't poor if they would buy you a $1400 ebike.
Those 'bikes' are not good as bicycles and they are not good as motorcycles. I have no experience with e-bikes, but my bias is that e-bikes are fucking gay.
I'd buy it myself. They have their own problems and live way far away. How are you so sure that e-bikes are bad if you never used one? Do you only like how lightweight bikes feel? Is the Fuji bike also crap?
That bike seems like for a different purpose than I had in mind but I'll look into it. I really wouldn't mind walking a bike up hills if it was light enough. Hell I could buy a commuter and if it doesn't fit my needs I could use it as backup or for the parts of town without insane hills, That sounds fun.
Why are you guilt tripping us with some impoverished high school youth on an e-bike who gets beaten up by jocks with new v6 mustangs, and his pap gives him his share of the gruel type stories then? What have your poor parents got to do with it?
FYI On /n/ we find our rides in dumpsters, and you with your $1400 to spend are a venerable nobleman.
I'm looking to buy a road bike for around $1000. I saw that Giant has the Defy 1 Disc on sale for $1150. Should I buy that or should I look for something used? I already have a hybrid bike that I use for commuting. There doesn't seem to be anything decent on Craigslist (Boston) in my size (5'7" 30") inseam.
For a $1,500 used bike off of Craigslist, you'd be getting a bike worth 2-3x what a secondhand $1,000 would cost, so take that into consideration. If you do this, however, make sure to have the seller agree to a LBS mechanic inspect it in front you both, so as to avoid getting got
thanks for the explanation
>people in my town with low income usually buy new highend bikes and then sell them fairly cheap after 2+ years and since most people here don`t regulary buy used (at least not for 600+ €) there is a well saturated market market for these bikes which keeps the price low
is this a common trend in Germany or is it specific to your area?
I am getting this
I just got tired of being a weak slob playing video games all day, is this a good choice for a beginners on mtb?
Commute to work/college
but would be willing to travel to
for more options if needed.
I know fuck all about bikes currently riding a 5 yr old walmar POS. Currently have my eyes on https://stcloud.craigslist.org/bik/5663336720.html
dunno and don't care about anything #vintage or #unique just need something to get me from point A to point B that is affordable.
Frankly I've never liked any of the half-platform pedals that I've ridden or have had my hands on (mostly SPD variants or clones of the same), but if I had to buy any of the options currently on the market it'd be the Crank Bros Double Shot, the platform is actually wide enough and at the right height that they look like they'd work tolerably well.
That first Trek you linked to is a solid deal, I'd grab it immediately. Other two you linked to are too small. Other finds:
An okay option, but on the small side for you.
lower quality bike than the others but if you can't get anything else would be okay
This bike is only sixty bucks, and I've been looking for a good bike to start with. Is there any reason I shouldn't get this?
Three reasons: mediocre platforms, frustration when trying to find the clipless side, and once I got used to clipless I pretty much never used the platform side.
That's a very low-end model Centurion, if you're 5'10" and just want to satisfy a curiosity it's cheap enough, but it's not a very nice bike. On the positive side it's going to be more durable and ride about as well as a really terrible Walmart bike, but it's a very heavy bike, and with those steel rims the braking performance will never be very good. If you do buy it, don't put any money into upgrading it beyond wrapping the handlebars.
Hey guys, been trying to find a cheapish road bike but really have no idea whats good. Any good deals in my area? Appreciate any help
>commuting and exercise
>>Local craigslist or equivalent
Looking for my next bike. Something to throw around the city like a mad cunt. I want something quick, fun, and nimble, but still useful, has mounts for shit, durable, etc. I know what I want is an impossible balancing act but what can you guys think of that's the closest?
Here's my ideal dream bike.
>steel frame (ideally), or something tough
>short wheelbase, really nimble and fun handling, almost "crit bike" geometry
>thinner tires, like 25mm but clearance for something like ~30-40mm
>mounts for shit like racks. specifically just a rear rack
Been looking at the surly crosscheck/straggler and the pacer.
Surly crosscheck will be pretty decent. I really don't like the Straggler's fucked up dropouts.
Take a look at the Soma ES or Double Cross. The ES is a road bike, and clears 32mm tires. The Double Cross is a bit more of a "do anything" bike that will fit 38mm tires with fenders.
The Wolverine might also be a possibility - very comparable to the Surly Straggler in terms of geo and clearance for massive +40mm tires.
You could also take a look at Black Mountain Cycle's road and mostercross frames. I was looking at all of the Soma and Surly bikes mentioned above, and bought one of Mike's monstercross frames instead. It SHREDS off road, while being a pretty damn good road bike as well. Clearance for 45mm tires and has rear rack mounts.
You won't get any benefits whatsoever from a top shelf groupset like Red or DA then. Also if you want to start training to race, get the cyclist training bible and a power meter. A power meter will benefit you a lot more than a small amount of weight and stiffness from an expensive bike.
Emonda ALR 6
Allez SL Comp
CAAD12 105/ Ultegra
SuperSix Evo 105 / Ultegra
It's kind of pathetic to be just starting out and slow, with a near top of the line bike. If you really must spend that much money, i'd get a Canyon Ultimate
Mostly city riding which is why my average speed is low
>Something to throw around the city like a mad cunt.
>I want something quick, fun, and nimble, but still useful, has mounts for shit, durable, etc
Sounds exactly like my Kona Paddy Wagon.
If also think Kona has a few geared options based on the Paddy Wagon platform, if you necessarily want gears.
Morning /n/, I'm moving off campus to an apartment next semester so I'm gonna need a bike to get to and from classes. I don't know jack shit about bikes, which is why I would prefer to ask people with experience rather then spend hours learning what could've been typed in seconds.
I have a budget of $300, pls help
These are the two I'm currently looking at. Really I only need a bike for getting around the city, I just want my money's worth.
This one looks sort of rusted
And I can't find much information on this frame
If someone's willing to help me out
I'm about to buy a new bike. I'm trying to decide between an endurance or a race style bike. Which would be better for me if I just want to go fast but be comfortable doing so? I usually go around 20 miles a trip but longer occasionally.
Red pill me on braking surfaces. What's the longest lasting braking surface? I see some carbon wheels have an alloy braking surface, while others have various marketing terms for their braking surfaces which I don't know what they actually are but maybe they are carbon? If I ever buy a nice wheel set I don't want to have to replace it in a year because the braking surface is dead. I guess the other option is discs.
I started road riding on a relaxed geometry road bike. Even that took a couple months to get used to. I've slowly lowered the bars by removing spacers and increased the saddle height over that time.
I think if I went straight to race bike geometry I would have been very uncomfortable.
Is this value?
Niner MCR @ $1000
I honestly have no idea. No statement on age, bike blue book has it at 900 in 2011 and 2500ish in '08(?), but I don't know if any of the after market options change the price OR if there were multiple offerings that niner has now.
1. Discs give the best brake performance and have great service lives (excluding certain hydraulic brakes that tend to require frequent service) but if you're not mountain biking or loaded touring it's debatable whether they're worth the associated costs to use.
2. With rim braking, the material on the braking surface determines performance. For braking power:
ceramic > aluminum > carbon > steel
Ceramic coated rims give the best rim braking performance (especially in wet conditions, because they don't get ground down like aluminum) but aren't common because they're expensive and brittle, which makes them vulnerable to damage. Aluminum is the standard because it gives very good performance, has good longevity, and is affordable. Carbon fiber braking surfaces require special brake pads that won't overhead the rims, even with the best brakes they never generate as much stopping power as with aluminum. Steel rims brake reasonably well in dry conditions but are abysmal when wet - steel rims do have one advantage in that the brake track will essentially never wear out, but they have disappeared from all but the crappiest bikes because they make for very weak wheels unless the rim is overbuilt and heavy.
I'd go for the racer if you want to ride fast on pavement, the endurance if you want a bike that you can also use comfortably for commuting/touring or gravel racing.
That's a fair asking price assuming everything works and the tires, chain, and cassette have lots of life remaining.
depends on the shorts, but as long as they fit you and aren't too baggy, they'll work fine for commuting
All of these are your size, within price range, and would be sufficient for commuting. None are great enough that I would buy unless tires are good and no repairs required.
Lucky anon your craigslist is great.
Absolute top of the line restored oldschool race bike in fantastic condition. I'd be all over this. The caveat is that you can't put a rack on it, and the ride will be slightly 'harsh'- fast. There are other ways to load it though, like a bikepacking seatbag.
Decent quasi italian road bike. (Steel, not aluminium like above, so the ride will be more comfortable). Has mounts for a rear rack. Looks good condition.
Decent italian road bike. Butchered with a hybrid conversion (loses aero), but still geared high with race ratios (hard to ride slow), so wouldn't work anywhere that isn't flat. Still, looks good condition and could be converted back down the line.
Super rad oldschool japanese touring bike with an italian name. Best for commuting as it is good to load, has wide range gearing (can ride slowly), can fit front and rear racks, fenders, wide tires. Potentially too large for you, but if you could stand over the top tube without touching your balls it would be sweet.
Super rad italian mountain bike. I'd say with good options on road bikes this would be silly, but it is still very very cool, and high spec. Having no suspension makes it great for road riding, and it would be a great sturdy commuter with racks.
>I'd go for the racer if you want to ride fast on pavement, the endurance if you want a bike that you can also use comfortably for commuting/touring or gravel racing.
>endurance road bike
Can you bend over and touch the ground? Are you fit, young and flexible? Race bike. Are you slobbish, slow, and inflexible? Endurance fit. Go to a shop and ride a few.
That's all i could find in your size. Reynolds 520 tubing which is basically 4130, so a step above hiten- 'ok'. Sora 3500, so the lowest end good shimano group (external bearing HII crank & proper sti levers), again 'ok', condition seems ok, tektro brakes are ok.
Bike is thoroughly 'ok', room for mudguards, rack mounts, would make a good commuter imo and perfectly good for a bit of exercise too. 250 seems more of a fair price. The included lights and mudguards are nice though.
I need a new bike but i am not sure what to get, i would be willing to spend as much as 1600 €
I live in Frankfurt, Germany.
I would prefer to have a light roadbike with which i can some fun.
I have looked into/been recommended the following bikes:
Stevens strada 900
Cannondale caad 12 105
I have made some research of my own and found this, which sounds breddy nice, i however am unfamiliar with this particular brand (and bicycle brands in general, aside from "muh bianchi" etc.)
Is this a good deal or can you recommend me something else?
My bike just got stolen and I'm too piss d to do any proper research into buying a quick replacement or fix up a used bike. Is there any kind of decent quality utility road bike you guys default to buying from a retailer?
Novara Buzz @ REI
chromo frameset, hydraulic discs, good tire clearance for ~$500
The last couple years they've moved to a more compact or MTB geometry - used to be more like a gravel grinder. Still good value for a useful bike.
That bmc is a good bike, but the canyon has much nicer wheels & tires, internal cabling, 1kg less weight, 11 speed, slightly nicer action, better braking. Also it's a German bike. Both are good options. Cannondales are good options too:
If you wanted to spend less, these are comparable frames to a CAAD at a slightly lower spec build (wheels and crank). Room to upgrade. I really like the brushed allum look:
These are slightly heavy for using a lower grade carbon but still a great frame and the spec is excellent- fulcrum wheels (equivelant to racing 3s), turbo tires (top tier), praxis crank (again top tier), ultegra, and i really like the teal frame colour:
They change it up every few years. My 2009 Buzz is like the 2016, except with an Al tubeset. I recently changed out all of its parts for XT and a couple of 1.8" Fire Pro tires and it's a dank little MTB now
This thing folds up. My commute is only two miles so even if it's far from ergonomic it's viable to get to work on, and it's about the only bike that could fit in the trunk of my Miata.
I have another bike for longer trips (two actually, a decent one and a not even worth the cost of the lock one for sketch areas), but I like the idea of being able to stash this under my desk at work and take it in the car when I drive somewhere.
How much should I be willing to pay for one in good shape?
SpecialiZed are douchebags who are obsessed with crushing small companys over 'trademarks' like 'epic' and 'roubaix' - see also the volagi lawsuit were volagi were made to pay $1 to specialized.
I'd still buy one though, they're dope bikes.
I dun goofed
Road bike. I'm currently on 28-spoke stock wheels, probably looking for something pretty shallow-section, since I live in a region with a lot of hills and crosswinds. Preferably something with a wider rim for muh comfort.
as little as humanly possible
daily ride, commuting, fun riding, all involve riding on some pretty bumpy roads and what is essentially offroad
>Local craigslist or equivalent
allegro.pl or olx.pl
How confident are you in your ability to assemble and tune a bike? If you are, they can be an OK value option. If not, steer clear. Getting a shop to set a BD bike up is going to eat into most of your cost savings.
well, i've never done it before, but i repair machinery for a living so i doubt i'd find it too difficult - provided: a) reference material is available, and b) any specialty tools/magic wrench are already on-hand
which prompts the questions
1) is there assembly lit available
2) are there any specialty tools/magic wrenches to buy or are common hand tools+allen/torx in sae and metric enough?
Note: I'm not a hybrid shill, but pretty much every road bike on your CL is manlet size
Commuting, Recreation, streets and mostly paved trails
locked up outside, stored in my home
Top of the line '90ish Haro Extreme.
>(i looked it up, its a 1988)
Deore DX components.
21" frame with 31" standover height.
21 speed (3x7).
Some fading of the paint otherwise in very good condition.
Completely overhauled and ready to ride.
This frame looks a bit small for me, but the color and shape is awesome. I'd probably add some horns to the handlebars and add some more wacky colors to it, like handgrips, pedals n stuff.
Should I get a 2014 Specialized Tarmac SL4 Sport or the 2016 Cannondale CAAD12? The CAAD is $200 more than the Tarmac. Which has the better frame? I've heard that the CAAD bikes were easy to dent since the sidewalls are so thin. Would carbon be more durable in that case? The Tarmac is lower specced but I could always upgrade the wheels and the cassette with the money saved. I'm also open to the idea of getting a 2016 Tarmac Sport but is that worth $400 more than the CAAD?
I read that this guy is a good entry level bike, would anyone care to crush my dreams?
I'm looking to get my first bike since I was a kid. I saw an ad on kijiji for pic related for $150 CAD, ad just says "Specialized Street/Trail bikes: selling several well maintained street/trail bikes, comes with bell, comfort seat, parcel rack and bottle holder"
Would this be a good buy? I'll probably be using mainly for recreational purposes and maybe commuting
It's probably fine if you ride a 3km ride max 2 times a week for 1 summer.
If you think you'll ride more than that, I suggest something better.
If you really can't manage more than a couple hundred bucks for a bike then buy used. If you want a new road bike, it would be wise to spend atlest 600€ for that shit in my humble biased opinion.
It's correct when you can get your leg straight with your heel on the pedal.
Also, watch for the markings on the seat tube that indicate how high you can lift the seat. Any higher than that, you could destroy the frame.
Paddle shifters, shit everything, probably 20kg. The few hundred you save means you're losing out on a lot. Scrape together the last five hundred and buy a real entry level brand road bike.
It makes no sense to buy something so cheap it's only superficially similar to the real thing - just because it's cheap.
Fork - 4ZA Eclyps
Frame - Columbus HT 7000 Alloy
Tires - Michelin Klrylion carbon
Brakes, shifters - Ultegra 6600
Rims - Mavic CXP 22
Hubs - Ultegra 6600
Crank - Shimano 105
Casette and chain - Ultegra 6600
Handlebars - Ritchey 6061 t-16
Is this as good of a deal as it sounds, or am I missing something?
These two are a bit too small for you but they come with integrated shifting, which is nice
Also check out this funky lugged Lotus MTB
What do you guys think for a mountain bike?
Hoping to get it under 200. Is this a good bike for the price?
Know nothing about bikes.
Clamont six twelve. Dude wants AUD$150.
I'm 6'3, so I gotta ask him the size of the frame.
I see. Well, the market here sucks for road bikes, the cheapest entry level bike goes for 0.9-1k € new.
As a first road bike, would you suggest getting the one I posted, or something like pic related for a 100€ or so and restoring it?
that's a tough call. What is you current experience with cycling? Are you freshly new to the sport/activity? Or do you have some experience, but you're looking to move to something higher performance.
If your'e not entirely sure where you stand on cycling, you might want to consider restoring the less expensive bike,
If you know you love cycling and are looking to move to the next level, the nicer bike would be good.
both options seem like a fair price monetarily, but it's not worth buying a more expensive bike that you might not use. It also isn't worth buying a less expensive bike and spending a lot to restore it if it ends up not being up to par with your interest/abilities.
I used to ride occasionally for recreational purposes, but I'm totally new to road bikes and cycling as a sport.
Initially I was looking for an old bike to restore, seems like a fun project too, but then I saw that Magno bike which stands out as a very good deal here.
Now that I think of it, it's probably stolen and it might be a bit too small for me.
The ad says the size is 56 cm and I'm 185 cm (6'1") tall with an inseam of 85 cm (34,65").
That would be about right in NZ. It's 'old' now by road bike standards. The new style shimano shifters with undertape shift cables and the modern ergonomics came in in 2008, so to roadies, that groupset is no longer modern. It is also from a dead period of aluminium roadies. In the 80s and 90s -often American made- aluminium bikes were seen as high tech, light, stiff, fast, and with harsh rides- Klein, caad etc. When Carbon bikes took over around the millennium, aluminium roadies were relegated to the entry level status, retaining their harsh riding characteristics (or stigma), but no longer being viewed as fast or high tech. It's only in the past few years after aluminium bike technology has really advanced, that aluminium road bikes are no longer super harsh and while still not 'top of the line', are viewed as very decent alternatives, often superior, to mid range carbon race bikes- CAAD 12, Allez, etc.
That magno probably does have a harsh ride, and it is just not from a desirable period for road cyclists. It is also yeah, probably too small for you.
Can you actually get that scapin for 100€ ? Because that's a nice bike and a much better deal imo. The big downside is not having a compact crank, so the gearing is a lot higher. Also the crank and the front end would be less stiff, but that won't matter much for you. One thing to look out for is don't buy a bike with tubular wheels.
Pretty low end. Size should be ok for you- looks like a 58 or a 60. It's a fine buy if it's ALL in good nick, but not worth doing up yourself. Very possibly steel rims and if so it's not going to brake in the rain.
Found this on a local buy/sell/trade on Facebook and was looking for some input. After googling a little I found the price may be a bit too high? Thoughts?
It's not like $300 is unreasonable, but it's a pretty crappy bike. I wouldn't pay more than 200. I'd much prefer a decent 90s road bike to that.
So I've been getting into mountain biking for a few months now and really enjoy it. I am interested in getting a road bike, and would like some advice.
I am quite fit and live in a mountainous area, and would definitely consider getting into racing once I git gud enough. Group riding seems fun as a counterpart to my solo mountain biking, and my uni has a cycling team which would be good to join.
The temptation to buy a shiny new bike is strong as I bought an 8 year old MTB, and I am attracted to the Cannondale CAAD8 Sora. I like the appearance and Cannondale as a brand over many others. It also seems like a good choice if I decide to race. Is this a smart move, or might I be better off waiting and trying to find a year or two old CAAD8?
CAAD8 sora is a good bike, but if you have a reasonable local used market, you could get something better or cheaper or both, used. The brakes crank wheels and tires on it are pretty rubbish. Post your CL?
Any new bike that isn't ungodly expensive is going to have pretty shit wheels that you'll want to upgrade if you're doing a lot of mountain riding
I'd budget for a crabon wheelset if I were you
It's a UO18. They're the king of Hiten Shitters and ride much better than they deserve to. I think in that color with chromed bits they look stunning. They have 27" steel rims (in the wet- can't stop, don't want to- also, no tire choice), cottered cranks (a flexy bitch), death stems (i reckon if ridden lightly, you could just check it every so often), 'fucking kill my ass now' saddles and absolute shit bolt on simplex derailers.
Imo it's not necessarily stolen. If it's in good condition, with good tires, go for it. Maybe haggle a bit.
In the great bike boom of the early-mid '70's, French bicycles were sold in the U.S. in very large numbers, mostly low-end ten speeds with mild steel frames, steel rims and cottered cranks. These low-end models are generally not worth putting any money into, unless you have a strong sentimental attachment to one. Such a bike can be suitable for use as a "beater" to ride short distances, perhaps to the train station where you can lock it up without worrying about theft.
[A note from John Allen: I think that Sheldon overgeneralizes here. Some of the low-end models make for a very nice ride if customized with better components. I'm not the only cyclist who praises the excellent handling qualities of the UO-8, Peugeot's bottom-of-the-line 1970s 10-speed. There are probably other low-grade French bicycles as good. The UO-8 frame has unusually long chainstays, for ample heel clearance when carrying rear panniers. The plain-gauge steel frame tubing is a bit heavier than fancier butted tubing, but the added stiffness is welcome when carrying a touring load, and plain-gauge tubing doesn't dent easily like thin-walled butted tubing. A UO-8 is my favorite touring bike. So there!]
since it's being asked every other thread, shouldn't there be a sticky or pastebin already for first time buyers
500-1500 seems to be enough for a otr entry road bike. should be near or under 10kg, no cracks in the frame, aluminum or steel at the lower ranges potentially with carbon forks--full carbon becoming an option at the higher end used market. but that's mostly only an option in bike heavy cities like Portland, sf etc
honestly I don't think there's a ton to it, other than not expecting a perfect, brand new bike to fall into your lap for a few hundred bucks.
None of that stuff you said is good advice, apart from the very last bit.
Don't say 'honestly' or 'to be honest'. Would you normally be speaking dishonestly, or telling lies? It's especially asinine when you follow it with an insult. There is infinite room to be discerning about bicycles. It is like the finely honed katana, folded a hundred thousand times over. Sh-sha, i teleport behind you. No offense kid.
I really did like the newest UE8, but by this time in my collecting career, I was pretty much into high end bicycles only. That would change, in days to come, but at that time I guess I really did know that the bike would just sit. With that in mind, and The Old Shed bulging with vintage road bicycles, I decided to sell the Peugeot. I listed the bike on Ebay, and once again got a reasonable price for a bicycle that had cost me nothing. The second found Peugeot UE8 was sold to a fellow in Australia. And that was the beginning of a very unusual shipping story.
Thank goodness the potential buyer had the wisdom to ask about shipping costs before bidding. The cost to ship a complete bicycle, from my location in Canada to his in Australia, was $940.00 US. Almost a thousand dollars. He responded to the quote, thanking me for my time and I thought little more of it.
Well, a few days later, the auction ended and the Down-Under guy had bought the bicycle. He was quick to contact me and ask if I could possible put the shipping of the bicycle on his FedEx Account Number. Doing so would allow for his shipping discount to kick in and the final shipping cost to him would be $560.00 US. Still an awful lot for what was little more than an entry level, seventies something, Peugeot.
Well, to suggest that his final shipping cost levelled out at $560.00 would prove to be wrong. Australian Customs seized the bicycle, claiming that it was dirty. They insisted that the Peugeot be professionally cleaned, at the buyer's expense, before being released into the country. Additionally, the bicycle would be impounded for thirty days, with even more cost to my customer. I was horrified to find all of this out.
OTS with alluminium rims and cotterless cranks atleast
Lightweights with double butted chromo frames.
Probably better options.
Hasn't been looked after well. Dirty frame, dirty drivetrain, and abrasions around the bottom bracket from the chain dropping, which devalues a carbon frame a lot. The 10 speed groupset with old style shifters is very dated now as well. Plus bundled with shitty wheels. I think $680 is more realistic. If you do buy, very closely scrutinise the frame for cracks (even scratches aren't good).
I'd try haggle those down to $900 & look at poor man companys allum 5800 105 bikes around the $900 mark.
Thank you very much for the input! I normally find myself waiting several days before a reply and have been looking for a bike for about a month now. What are some things I should critique in order to drive the price down?
But yeah, My price range is around 600-800. Just seems unrealistic that these other people will go lower on their thousand+ bikes.
You kind of have to haggle in person. Any marks on the frame are good haggling points. It is carbon and people are scared of used carbon. It's a fine line between reasonably pointing out flaws and hurting the sellers feelings. You want them to think you like it, but you're not in love with it. I think being nice is probably the main thing. Some people will give a great deal to someone young and sincere. Some people will never budge off their unrealistic price and you just have to walk away. It helps a lot to be willing to go and get out cash and close the deal then and there. I don't think pointing out the dated components is going to help because the seller likely strongly recognizes this and is upgrading because of it- stick to condition of stuff.
It does look pretty slick.
Might as well try and lowball the others. Who knows, they might be desperate. I picked up an italian roadie cheap years ago because the dude needed alimony payments. Poor guy had to sell his ducati too.
I haven't ridden a bike in literally 15 years and I'm looking to get a bike to get into it. Problem is I'm very short, 5'3", and my leg length is ridiculous. It's something like 25". What will this mean when I'm shopping for bikes? I assume this will mean I can't ride on massive wheels because my legs won't reach the ground, and probably also that I need a really small frame so I can reach the pedals.
Is there anything else I'm overlooking?
How limited are my options here?
(pls don't tell me to get a kids bike, I'd eventually like to get a really nice one but idk if they'll even come in the kind of sizes I'd need)
Need some advice, I was offered this
Genesis Equilibrium second-hand for 985€.
It's customized so far for what I can tell from the original catalogue, has an ultegra instead of 105 and the saddle which I have no clue of the quality.
My problem is that for the same price I can get a new GT grade 105 or cannondale / trek similar kind of bike and what's eating at me is that I can't pinpoint if the Genesis would be good for the use I have in mind and the lack of knowledge about it's components and manufacturing year / model, also the frame seems to be steel but I have never had a steel bike so I don't know if it would be good enough or worse than the nowadays alu-carbon fork combo.
My intended use would be training, travel for long hours over road 60% and off-road 40%, touring-backpacking.
>travel for long hours over road 60% and off-road 40%
What you want is a Salsa Vaya, Kona Sutra, Jamis Renegade, Marin Four Corners, Spec AWOL if all else fails.
Genesis are infamous for really really tight tire clearances and that will make you suffer on those 40% dirt. Mass produced alu shit is not even worth mentioning.
Hi guys, need some advice, I was offered this Shimano for 120€, worth the price?
Nice, what kind of Shimano bike is that? I'm not familiar with them and the woman can't say me the name.
Taking note of the tyre clearance issue, I'll ask about that, thank you.
The ones you recommend I did have Jamis Renegade Exploit or below on my list, Expert goes a bit above my budget. Salsa Vaya doesn't seem to be on this side of the sea though lol.
But in any case most of those go a bit above my budget, but I'll try stick to those guidelines then.
Odd bike, the Shimano decals could have been added by a previous owner, but more likely it's a frame that was used as a display/demo bike to show off new Shimano parts. The parts currently on the bike don't match - they're good quality but an odd mix of French and Japanese items with what looks to be a nice wheelset. The price is definitely reasonable, if you're about 185-190cm tall it's definitely worth buying.
That's a solid deal if it doesn't immediately need the fork and shock serviced.
>short, long legs, short torso
Not to worry, all the big bikes brands these days make really nice bikes that are designed for women and will work for you. Unlike in the past where 'ladies' models were just bikes with step-thru frames for skirt clearance, these days 'ladies' bikes are generally the same bikes as sold to men, just designed for women (who tend to be shorter, have longer legs, and shorter torsos). Just find a Trek, Specialized, or Giant dealer and you'll have plenty of options to look at.