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/bbg/ - Bike Buy General Thread
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St. Byrne of No Cages edition

Previous thread >>960483
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>>965293
take a look at those hands
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CORRECTION

Lowlife Flippers Snapping up All the Good Deals Edition
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hi i was directed here. i'm new and looking to get a bike, probably mostly for road. i live in western australia, if that matters.

i don't know very much about bikes in general but would like to get something decent. any pointers or things to avoid?
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>>965376

Make sure the bike fits you, the most important thing by far. That said,it's better for a bike to be too small than too big.

Aesthetics is also important. You'll want to ride a bike that looks beautiful(to you) more and more consistently.

Buy used and buy steel for your first bike. If you end up dropping the sport you won't be out that much money. If you stick with it, a steel road bike is nice for commuting, cafe runs, pretty much anything that requires you to lock up outdoors. Also it'll teach you to fully appreciate the advances in cycling technology when you upgrade to a modern aluminum/carbon bike.

Post up a link to your local gumtree with your height, inseam and budget and I'll take a looksee in your area.
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what sort of aero benefits does tewi confer (and how much does this bike cost)
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>>965331
the hand speaks

>>965381
>normal spoked wheel with a card or something in the middle

Probably sweet fuck all.

Looks like a pretty sweet lowrider. Probably not less than 2k, probably a lot more.
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>>965380
Titanium is better than steel for cafe runs and so on

Less worrying about chipped paint

>modern aluminum

kek, Aluminum is the next retrogrouch material as soon as the steelisreal fags realize that it's no longer special snowflake time
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>>965380
Is this what you mean by posting a gumtree link?

http://www.gumtree.com.au/s-bicycles/wa/road+bike/k0c18560l3008845?fromSearchBox=true

Also my height is 6'0, not sure of my inseam but it would be average i guess for my height.
>>
I want a drop bar, single speed freewheel road bike for commuting and beater bike. I have 300$ to spend

I'm casual as hell, I don't understand the differences of good bikes and the junk ones

Should I build the bike myself in my local store or buy a multi speed roabike and convert it to single speed?

>There aren't any choice for single speed road bike in my budget and my country
>There are only 2 roadbike within my budget, and they're multi speed
>Second hand is not a choice, because secondhand bikes in my local area is sold together with steel junks market. Junks market in my area is basically
where junks/stolen things end up in a ghetto slum area full of criminals. The only decent place there is the clothing thrift store
>My online marketplace sucks and full of scams too
>>
>>965804
>buy a multi speed roabike and convert it to single speed?
Why would you actively try to make your bike worse?
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>>965804
You could buy just a frameset them and build or buy a single speed group
>>
holy fuck do bike companies even bother making 52cm frames or they just ridiculously popular

ebay seach 52cm


58cm results: 900
56cm results 239
60cm results 639
52cm results: 2

I can't find a single decent 52cm fram under 1000
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Is $800 a good price for a used raleigh sojourn touring bike? Are they good bikes for long distance tours? I'm planning a 6-8 month tour next year.
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>>965921


No.

It's specced competitively with ~$300 brand-new bikes. Alivio and shit.
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>>965880
ebay.ch
ebay.de
ebay.it

Are you even trying, m8?
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Is this a good bike for the price? A swiss franc is worth more or less like a dollar
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want to buy some decent tires and eventually new wheels for touring, could anyone elucidate some good ones in various price grades?
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>>965956
whats most important too you? rolling resistance, puncture resistance?
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>>965951

>2016
>rim brakes

no.
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>>965982
puncture resistance and just enough rolling resistance for rainy weather. glass and roadside debris are my main concerns. sturdy, but still ultimately for a road bike.

also dunno if this is a dumb question you can usually swap a wheel/tire with another of the same size right? (not getting into stiched tires or any of that)
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>>965996
> just enough rolling resistance for rainy weather
wat
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>>965996
iunno, i personally run shwalbe marathons on all my commuter bikes. the puncture resistance is second to none, and the rolling resistance isn't too bad

really depends on what you want to use the bike for
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>>965997
>rolling resistance
sorry, thought that was like the friction between the tire and road, which impacts slipping. This is more a measure of resistance due to deformation? please explain

>>965999
I just got a cheap tire replacement after one started to show a lot of wear, and the front is an old continental ultra.

I mentioned earlier but interested in touring, so any decent entry level would be an upgrade I imagine.
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>>966009
get the schwalbe marathon touring tyre.
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>>965987
Disc brakes are not UCI approved, so you are a fred is you are using them.
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>>966032
Unless you're using the bike for UCI sanctioned events, you're a fred for caring about UCI approval.
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>>966032
>>966034

Relax.
We can all hate the UCI equally.
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>>965804

get any steel bike that fits you for $50 on CL. Make sure it has horizontal dropouts

Buy a decent SS wheelset. Check CL before going on ebay, but be wary. A wheel that is "out of true" (wobbling) will fuck your budget up and ruin everything

Go on sheldonbrown.com and fine the SS/fixie instructions

Hardest part will get getting the chainline right, and setting up your brakes (which will be easy, really)

Spend the remainder on the highest TPI tires you can find, and probably a better saddle
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>>966040

Am I really the only person who actually likes the UCI?

>based weight limit keeps weight weenies in check
>based "all bikes must be production models" rule keeps things fair
>love to shit all over recumbentfags
>listens to riders rather than manufacturers in regard to muh disc brakes

and the biggest of all

>actually attempts to do something about doping in their sport, rather than letting it run completely rampant and uncontrolled, like every other international sporting body

I cry a single tear every time someone throws shade on the UCI
>>
>>965982
>cheapish
Panaracer Pasela PT/TG. Decent as hell. Rolling resistance, wet traction, dirt traction, suppleness, wear, and puncture resistance are all very decent. So much decency. I've noticed that some sizes are better than others for puncture resistance. 25mm is not that great, 28mm and 32mm are better. While less pressure will make a tire less vulnerable to puncture flats, I've heard that the 38mm version isn't that hot.

I've had good experiences with Vittoria Randonneur Cross and Randonneur Pro II tires. They kinda suck ass in dirt, tho.

>expensive
Schwalbe Mondial HS 428 Folding. More puncture resistance than the Virgin Mary. Very good in the wet, okay on dirt, less so in mud. Good rolling resistance. Lasts 25,000km or more. However, all of that puncture protection means that it leaves something to be desired for comfort.

>unlimited money
Grand Bois/Compass tires. Less puncture resistance than Jesus. Good in all conditions, excellent rolling resistance, and they're so comfortable and supple that you cum on your face every time you ride. But honestly I'd set them up tubeless with sealant because they're just too vulnerable to goatheads and shit.
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>>966127
>Panaracer Pasela
these look pretty good really, but compass/gb are only around twice as much, so if there's not tons of goatheads would it be worth it? mostly it's just blackberry brambles and the occasional broken bottle around here, but honestly the roads are pretty well maintained. in any case all of these are a lot more reasonable than I imagined so thanks.
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>>966149
The PT version of the Paselas are great. I can even take them on singletrack and not get any flats. And they ride great.
The non-PT version is shit. They are a really nice ride, but CONSTANT flats.
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>>966127
Considering Jesus got punctured by several nails and a spear, I take it those GB/C tires are very prone to punctures?
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>>966074

(You)
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How long is the average test ride?
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>>966127

You gotta try Marathon Supremes brah. Somewhere in between the mondial and a compass imho
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>>965413
>kek, Aluminum is the next retrogrouch material as soon as the steelisreal fags realize that it's no longer special snowflake time

http://www.sheldonbrown.com/rinard/frame_fatigue_test.htm
>>
http://www.jamisbikes.com/usa/renegadeexpat.html
vs
https://www.norco.com/bikes/road/adventure/search-aluminum/search-atiagra/

What do you think?
The only major differences I see are internal cables and alu vs steel.

Reported weight of both bikes wildly varies for different sizes so I'm not sure about it, I'm not a wannabe sportsman but I'm very light (178cm/61 kg, whatever it is in Freedom Units) so extra weight is a factor for me
>>
Any thoughts on this bike? Planning to pick it up tomorrow

http://www.feltbicycles.com/USA/2016/Bikes/road/race/f75.aspx
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does /bbg/ have any bikes infographic, guide, well something for a totaly clueless person like me?
I need a bike mainly for city, but i don't want it to be really stiff, so that occasionaly i could spend some time with it on hiking tracks in forest.
How much cheaper would it be to build a bike by myself, that to buy fuly built one?
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>>966341

Felt makes good bikes, typically 100-200 cheaper than the big four for the same level of components.

>>966355
Not that I know of. Get a rigid 90's MTB and put 1.5 city tires on it. Link to your local craigslist, give your height, inseam and budget. Expect to spend maybe 100 for the bike, and another 100 cleaning it up and getting it road ready. A decent brand new hybrid will run you 400-500 minimum, and probably won't run as well as a 90's mtb because most companies put obama-tier suspension forks on their hybrids.

Tits unrelated
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There are some pretty steep discounts here, are any of these worth for a commuting bike?
http://www.the-house.com/search.html?keywords=bike&sort_by_field=Discount%3ADESC&refine=y&Category=Bikes
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>>966152
Yep. They are made with a very thin casing and have no special protective layers. The idea behind them is to replicate the kinds of tires the French randoneuurs had back in the 40s and 50s. So they have minimal rolling resistance, which requires minimal protection vs. sharp things. Running them with lower than typical pressure reduces the chance of puncture flats. I think they're okay for rando shit and credit card touring in nice country, but for srs bznss touring I'd go with Marathons of some sort.

>>966327
Yeah those are the next tires I want to try on my touring bike, after the Pasela PTs on it wear down.
>>
>>966534
are rigid 90s MTBs the pinnacle of bicycle design?
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>>966581
As an owner of one, yes they are. Sure it's heavy as hell but it was free, fit's fenders and 1 3/4" slicks and has a rack.

Lubricate everything, take of the kickstand, get a longer seatpost and move all the levers into a more useful position. For some reason people like to but the brake levers almost horizontal which will totally fuck up your wrist.
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>>966585
>lubricate ur brakes
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>>966534
my height is 1.74m, i really doubt i could find something in local market, because town i live in has around 10k people, my budget is 1k euros, but i dont want to spend that much, 300euros would be fine. Btw i live in lithuania.
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>>965293
I'm going to france soon and i plan to buy an used frame there. Anyone here knows the best sites to buy them in France?
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Can someone help me find a decent mtb off of Craigslist? I have a 300$ budget, live in Las Vegas, and Im about 5'9.
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Okay lads I have been getting into biking the past few months and I want a new bike for roads/not hard trails. Right now I'm using a crappy 10 year old steel hybrid that is falling apart.
Any recommendations? Budget of around $500
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>>966707
I recommend a nice 10 year old steel road bike that is not falling apart.
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>>966665
This is the best I could find, has Tourney components though, haggle down as much as you can
https://lasvegas.craigslist.org/bik/5621246153.html
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Hey guys, my bike was stolen and I'm desperate for a new one in order to get to work.
I'm still relatively new to cycling and still not confident in spotting a good bike.
Please help me find a good bike from craigslist LA
https://losangeles.craigslist.org/
>400 dollar budget
>32 inch inseam
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>>966779
forgot to mention, I prefer a bike for long distance commuting with a relaxed geometry
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This recumbent is 100 euros.

Tires will probably need replacing.
Worth it?
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>>966790
Fuck yes.
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>>966791
inb4 a bidding war with some other people.
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>>966780
Also im 5'10"
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>>966790
Update: I won.
Tomorrow I'll take a look at in person and probably buy it.
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Well, shit. Went to store, tried a 53 frame because of a good deal anon in previous thread spotted for me.
Works, but only with the saddle at or below handles. So i need to find a good used bike for midgets, when a lot of brands don't even start their cyclo-/cross frames until 50.
Kill me ._.
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>>966908
How tall are you?
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>>966909
5ft6, 168cm
~77 inseam
Bike they had in this size was a Cube Cross Race ( http://www.cube.eu/produkte/road-race/cross-race/cube-cross-race-whitenred-2016/ )
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>>966911
Hmm you're not that short. If you don't have any luck finding a specific cyclocross bike, you could always get a road bike frame your size and build it for cross. I know a few cross racers that race on modified paddy wagons.
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>>966914
Guy at the store told me a road bike frame is cut narrow at the fork (change it, meh) and back wheel and wouldn't fit much of a tire upgrade. Bullshit?
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>>966915
>Bullshit?

Probably not. Most road bike can fit 25c and MAYBE squeeze in 28c. Cross tyres are 30-32 mostly.
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>>966921
I have a paddywagon and I run 30 tires
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>>966954
Although, granted, when my wheels go out of true I'm pretty fucked cause i have very limited clearance
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I'm in the market for a touring bike for my first tour on the ACA southern tier. A local shop has these 3 bikes right now:
Nishiki Semi Pro .... classic Japanese old school... big frame! Used. $150.00
Aegis Carbon Fiber .. made in the USA! Used. $330.00
Raleigh Sojourn touring... new! $799.00 (original price $1000.00)

Which, if any, should I get?
I'm tempted to just go for the nishiki just because it is so cheap and it would leave me with more money to spend on my trip or other gear that I need. A co-worker that knows a lot more about bikes than I do said that it's hard to find parts for old school bikes anymore though.
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opinions on Felt hardtails?

due to unfortunate circumstances in somebody else's life i can get this bike for about 2 grand.
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>tfw no one ever sells used cross bikes
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giant has put some of their bikes on sale.
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I had decided on a new GT Sanction Pro, but then I found a 2015 Intense Tracer 275 in Pro build with some updates, for the 200 dollar less. Thoughts? Main use will be lift based enduro/downhill-ish riding, but also some trail and enduro with climbs, where I think the Tracer will outshine the Sanction
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>>967028
I'd recommend a Raleigh Clubman if you could find it over the Sojourn. It's Tiagra at least over Sora. I have a Clubman 55cm frameset stripped that I'm going to build back up with 105 and add racks and panniers to.

>A co-worker that knows a lot more about bikes than I do said that it's hard to find parts for old school bikes anymore though.
eBay is GOAT.

Also, if it has pretty standard sizings and threadings there are almost unlimited upgrades you could make to the components. Shit, you could pretty much get the Nishiki and piece out a 105 groupset and get racks and panniers for the price of the Sojourn, but chances are you should be fine and most bike shops would be able to help you out with something.

Saving money now means more money for your trip as well as emergency funds for parts and shit that may come up on your trip.
>>
Where do you buy parts? Is there a "pcpartpicker.com" of bikes?

I know some anon was posting a spreadsheet in bbg a couple of months ago.
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>>967100
they get trashed af though, it's probably for the best
>>
>>967350
wiggle, chain reaction, ribble, merlin, amazon, ebay
>>
How much should I ask for for a pair of barely used 650b mtn bike tires on kijiji?
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Hi, is it ok to get advice for a bike here for a first time buyer? I'm interested in getting a road bike, more specifically a cyclocross bike maybe. From what I read it seems like a good all rounder kind of bike to get. I want something that's complete under 500$, but if that's unreasonable I'll try to wiggle with it. I'm 6'3 with a 32.5in inseam from what I measured.

I currently have a steel mountain bike, and I only recently learned how to ride. So far though I've been enjoying it over the past two months and I would like to continue to pursue biking for the fitness benefits.

I saw this bike on sale, does anyone have a strong opinion about it? I couldn't really find a lot of detailed reviews on it. http://www.nashbar.com/bikes/Product_10053_10052_574097_-1
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>>967513
And here's my local craiglist http://richmond.craigslist.org/search/bia
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why the fuck are there so many choices? I just want a bike to ride 5 miles a day back and forth from work. what's all of this circlejerking going on in here.
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>>967541
Just buy whatever.
You don't even need to be in this thread.
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>>967541
get a $100 single speed steel from the local co-op
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>>966628
A-anyone?
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>>967544
>Type "buy bicycle" in Google translate
>Search in Google french, "buy bicycle France"
>Profit
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>>967433
People buy used tires?
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>>967557
I hope so, or else I wont afford my tubeless
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>>967544

Buying a bicycle in France if you don't live there is basically a horrible idea.

The French have a long and colored history of ignoring otherwise universal standards in bicycle component sizing.
>>
>>967554
I did, only shit sites came up. Maybe they are all they have but it looks sketchy...
>>967566
So do the italians and english. Bike manufacters hate standards for some reason.
>>
>>967591

The English standards are what 99% of the world considers just plain fucking standard.

Italy doesn't even count. Fuck Italy.
>>
>>967596
Isn't it the Swedish? I always mess this shit up; that's the most stupid thing i found upon cyclistic world.
>Italy doesn't even count. Fuck Italy.
Agree 100%.
>>
>>965381

I think its most valuable asset is the animegirl engraving
>>
>>967514
get that '15 Specialized Crossroads Sport and replace the stupid cockpit & seating components
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>>967513
>http://www.nashbar.com/bikes/Product_10053_10052_574097_-1

I'd avoid the nashbar. sometimes they use hi-ten steel that sucks

If your commute is flat I'd consider a single speed from here (bottom row):

http://www.bikesdirect.com/products/cross_bikes.htm

there are some geared ones there. budget to buy better saddle and tires for all of them

Here are a bunch of flat bar options, a list I made for a friend

=========================

$379 Aluminum frame, 29er wheels. Very good option for trail. Can carry front and rear racks. Tires are questionable but I have a couple replacements you could have for free.

http://www.jamisbikes.com/usa/allegro.html
$550 Out of price range. This bike is well regarded as durable and practical. Generally upgraded from the bike above, similar idea. would be easier to upgrade if you want to

http://www.jamisbikes.com/usa/codasport.html


$450-$490. Right in between the bikes above. Cannonade = cool paint

http://www.trekbikes.com/us/en_US/bikes/city-bikes/fitness-bikes/fx/7-2-fx/p/1323010-2016

http://www.cannondale.com/en/USA/Bike/ProductDetail?Id=6b6b05cf-8b62-48aa-ab34-67dce69c866f
$500 More pricey but looks + could go to REI for test ride. 10% refund at end of year = $450

https://www.rei.com/product/888342/novara-corsa-donna-womens-bike-2016

https://www.rei.com/product/893063/diamondback-trace-bike-2016
BIKES DIRECT


These are discounted about $100. Assembly required


$300 More upright, similar to the Aurora above

http://www.bikesdirect.com/products/gravity/swift-flatbar-hybrid-21.htm


$400 More racey, similar to a coda

http://www.bikesdirect.com/products/motobecane/cafe_latte_x.htm
>>
I want to get into road biking. I want something thats sturdy and will last awhile(I've some bad luck with bike so far so this important. I have no idea where to start. if someone could point me in the right direction I'd appreciate it.
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Hello, I am looking for a bike to commute. I always post on /bbg/. I am 6'0. Can I get your rating for these bikes (buy or not) and what price would you offer the seller.

https://newhaven.craigslist.org/bik/5633277692.html

https://newhaven.craigslist.org/bik/5633935137.html

https://newhaven.craigslist.org/bik/5633935137.html
>>
I would like a new CX bike, hoping to stay under $1500. I would probably need a 52-54cm range

What bike is good?
>>
>>968106
Make a new thread, bbg is kowtowing to foamer fascism
>>
>>968045
If you are familiar with bikes and have tools from say mountain biking then just go on craigslist and find something that fits you and is in decent working condition... you can find people selling bikes cheap because they are too dumb to readjust their drive train
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>>968110
Actually all of my problems that I've had previous bikes were bikes i bought off other people, So I'd rather avoid that.

What I'm looking for is some decent road bikes for around 800, maybe 1000 USD max. Thing is I don't know a lot about bikes, So I really don't know what to look for. I'm 5'11.5 if that helps. I really admire road racing and I'd like to get into biking, I'd appreciate a response, thanks.
>>
>>968135
What kind of "bad luck" have you had?

It's important to remember that all new bikes will eventually develop what you refer to as "problems"

That is because bikes require maintenance and care to keep in good working order

I'm not trying to dissuade you from buying new, but keep your expectations in order, it won't be new forever if you plan on using it
>>
>>968137
All the bikes I've bought off of people second-hand haven't lasted me more than a month each. Three of them flung me over the handles of the bike because the chain got stuck, one of them had a bad frame and fell apart after only a week, and my most recent bike's tire burst on me while riding on me leaving the frame warped.

I understand that a new bike won't last forever but It's better than something that's already worn down.
>>
>>968141
"the chain got stuck" is a maintenance issue, caused by incorrectly adjusted limit screws in the derailleur. this can be exacerbated by shitty components that don't hold their adjustment well, or can't be adjusted well, but an $800 used bike is not likely to have shitty components

a damaged frame should be plainly visible unless it's garbon

flat tires can be caused by operator error, bad components, or bad luck. all bikes get flat tires, even the most expensive bikes

again, I am not trying to dissuade you from buying new, just keep in mind that if you are looking to get serious about biking, you need to get serious about knowing how your bike works too
>>
>>968141
Maybe you need to take more care in what you buy? Chains are considered a consumable part, and to a much smaller degree are cassettes and chainrings. Before cash changed hands, what did you do to make sure you weren't buying a lemon?
After you took it home, what did you do before taking it out on the town?
>>
>>968142
Well I guess i better educate myself then because I really don't know much about how bike's work. I guess that would be a good place to start.


>>968143
I'll be honest I didn't really do a thorough inspection of the bikes i bought.I guess that was my biggest mistake, but I want to say I'm willing to learn from those mistakes.
>>
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would these be ok for a conversion of a 90s rigid mtb for road riding?
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>>968148
also,the bike would be the same model as this. i just cant spend very much as i also need new wheels and tires
>>
>>968135
If you can wait until Septemberish, the 2017 models will be released and 2016 will start being marked down. Things that are 1200 will drop between 800 and 900 iirc (and I might not). From there you have a few questions to answer, questions we would be asking anyway.

>what is the purpose of your bike?
If you are only going to take it out on the weekend and just o decent roads, a pure road bike with 23-28mm tires is a good option. In your price range you get access to aluminum (light but slightly rougher ride) or steel (eats road vibrations but is much heavier). You will not have fender or rack mounts, but there are rackless bags or racks that attach without mounts.
If your looking at off-roading on gravel roads or fireroad as well as asphalt, check out touring or cyclocross frames. These will generally have greater tire clearance and have tires that use less pressure. Running tires at lower pressure absorbs more road noise but decreases energy transfer from you to the ground. It'll be adequate on the road and excel the rougher it gets. Again, you'll probably get alu with a carbon fork or steel.
If you are primarily commuting and you won't be climbing major hills you could swing a single speed or a 1x(9, 10, 11)speed. because you are not paying for a front derailleur (or possibly a back derailleur), you could get a higher quality frame at the same price.
Don't get a fixed gear.

As far as new brands, you can't really go wrong with the big brands (Trek, Giant, Specialized, Fuji). If you want something more niche with an A E S T H E T I C, Salsa, Surly, All-City, Kona, and I'm sure others would offer things in your price range that wouldn't do you wrong. That said, try before you buy. Get a sense of your possible hand positions and how your legs feel, how it turns and how it feels on different road conditions. Look at both alu and any non-hi-ten steel. If you live in a second or third story walk up, include lifting it in your judgement.
>>
>>968149
>>968148
You will be hardly using those at all. Consider regular barends.
>>
>>968153
>If you are only going to take it out on the weekend and just o decent roads, a pure road bike with 23-28mm tires is a good option. In your price range you get access to aluminum (light but slightly rougher ride) or steel (eats road vibrations but is much heavier). You will not have fender or rack mounts, but there are rackless bags or racks that attach without mounts.

This is I'm going for. Although I plan on riding it a bit more than just in the weekends. Probably 3-4 times a week.

Also I can wait until September if that holds true. desu I'm not really in a rush. I mean they sooner the better but if i can save that would be great.
>>
it has normal bar-ends but a drop bar seems like a good idea as the extra positions would help me stay comfortable longer.
>>
>>968160
>desu
*then
i don't even remember typing desu
>>
>>968163
desu = tb.h, my dear newfiend
>>
>>968162
You'll have the same hand position but more hunched over.
>>
>>968145
The basics are dents and cracks on the frame and below the bottom bracket. Steel has a bit more resilience than aluminum but look into how much damage is too much. If steel, look for signs of rust, if possible inside as well. This is also a good way to check if the seatpost has seized. A little on the order outside can be cleaned and repainted. A lot means no go.
Check to see if your wheels are true. Again a little wobble is okay, a lot of wobble means you have to replace.
Check the chain and the gears. Road grime builds on the chain and increases wear on the gears. The gears might not be perfect, but they should be pointed and not worn down. If you want to be really anal, get a chain checker and see if it is in the danger zone. A slack chain is more likely to
Check the shifters/derailleurs. Run both up and down your entire range of gears. See where it crosschains and look for wear on the hangers. Check the wheel jockeys (tiny gears on the derailleurs) for both built up grime and wear.
Look at the cables for signs of rust(especially if you live somewhere humid.) Pull back the cable housing and check that too. Check the housing for signs of cracking. Test the brakes on and off.

Chains and cables will need replacing given enough time, so damage to those is mostly a point of haggle as long as you are willing to put in the work or pay someone. If they tell you up front, haggling is your call.

During or after all this check your fit. It doesn't need perfection but make sure nothing feels impossibly stretched or hunched and be ready to wrench around to make it work.
>>
For 75$ this seems like a great deal. Just don't like the frame for aesthetic reasons

https://philadelphia.craigslist.org/bik/5630661146.html
>>
>>968168
Fuck no, that's supermarket-tier only decades old
>>
>>968164
Oh. I didn't know that. This my first time posting on this board. I've been lurking for awhile now tho.

>>968166
>The basics are dents and cracks on the frame and below the bottom bracket. Steel has a bit more resilience than aluminum but look into how much damage is too much. If steel, look for signs of rust, if possible inside as well. This is also a good way to check if the seatpost has seized. A little on the order outside can be cleaned and repainted. A lot means no go.
>Check to see if your wheels are true. Again a little wobble is okay, a lot of wobble means you have to replace.
>Check the chain and the gears. Road grime builds on the chain and increases wear on the gears. The gears might not be perfect, but they should be pointed and not worn down. If you want to be really anal, get a chain checker and see if it is in the danger zone. A slack chain is more likely to


>Check the shifters/derailleurs. Run both up and down your entire range of gears. See where it crosschains and look for wear on the hangers. Check the wheel jockeys (tiny gears on the derailleurs) for both built up grime and wear.
>Look at the cables for signs of rust(especially if you live somewhere humid.) Pull back the cable housing and check that too. Check the housing for signs of cracking. Test the brakes on and off.
>Chains and cables will need replacing given enough time, so damage to those is mostly a point of haggle as long as you are willing to put in the work or pay someone. If they tell you up front, haggling is your call.
>During or after all this check your fit. It doesn't need perfection but make sure nothing feels impossibly stretched or hunched and be ready to wrench around to make it work.
.
Thanks for the advice. I'm going to make a note of this on my pc so when it comes to getting the actual bike I'll know what to check for.
>>
>>968173
Google the components too.

All shimano stuff worth anything is labelled

Easiest part is the crank on the backside of the arm it should have something like

172.5 (or w/seize)

And then 5800 or whatever generation

Each first number is product level

The hundreds is generation

So 6700 will be second to highest level and 2 generations
>>
>>968177
That generations part is confusing. I'm not sure i understand that. and what does product level signify
>>
>>968173
>This my first time posting on this board.
And 4chan as a whole I presume, since the filter is active on every board
>>
>>968184
Not my first time. I've noticed filters in the past but wasnt aware of tb.h being one. I just don't post a lot and usually lurk
>>
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Should I buy a old Fuji bike from CL for ~50 bucks and restore it slowly or buy a bike in a fair state for 150 bucks.
>>
>>968197

The bike that looks cooler to you?

Makes very little difference, even if you get the fair state bike you'll still have to do regular maintenance on it.
>>
I'm 6'1 and about 32 ~ in legs i think.

Would 20 inches be way too small?
>>
I'm researching my first MTB, and I have honestly no idea what I'm looking at.

If I'm looking at week+ bikepacking trips at what level of difficulty do I look at full suspension vs hardtail vs rigid and how do I know the technical aspect of a pre-planned ride?
>>
>>968218
Yes, definitely. 22 - 23 inches is recommended
>>
>>968226
hardtail minimum, full sus if you can afford it.

Nobody ever regrets full sus, but it is expensive.

Shitty full sus is generally better than none. Coils are just fine. Air is basically for lower weight which who cares if you're going backpacking...
>>
>>968226
Also invest in a cushy seat if you're going on long rides and/or are larger than 140 lbs.
>>
>>968241
Coil > Air

Feels better, lower maintenance, just throw some chain oil on there.
>>
>>968242
Only clock in at 130 on a good day.

Let's assume hardtail then because budgeting, how do I decide level of travel?
Also, I see the drop bar MTB stuff, why should I not buy into that bullshit or is it worth it for mixed terrain?
>>
>>968245
>130
lolwut

ok throw out everything I said about suspension... most won't even adjust to that weight... you should just visit your lbs and try a few bikes.
>>
>>968247
I have the body I have. Would your recommendation change given weight carried? For example, my full tent set up is 10 pounds, 5 days food is 10 to 15 pounds, I don't even know what I'm looking at for water until I plan a route but assuming max of 9 liters for 2 days and a resupply no less often than every other day that's 20 pounds more, I don't know what the average weight for clothes will be I'm going to assume 7 poundsish based on a cursory glance at UL travel and doubling that because budget, and some emergency kit too. Maximum total added weight 50 something minimum probably 30.
>>
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>>968226
To be clear, you have little bike experience and no offroad experience?

Bikepacking is not my specialty, but I would look at some of the common setups for the Tour Divide race, as well as common bikepacking setups, from say, Surly or the Spcialized AWOL.

Pic related. It's a Marin Pine Mountain.
>>
>>968247
thus it is confirmed: MTBfags are just a bunch of ham planets who roll down hills after riding the ski jump to the top
>>
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>>965381
>>967656
v true

Do spoke covers (as pictured) on the back wheel work similarly to disk wheels, and what sort of negatives do each have? Other than added mass & crosswinds, it seems like it'd be pretty fun.
>>
>>965380

I bought a used (but like new) steel bike that's too big for me. Think it's smarter to just sell and buy a new bike the correct size, or swap the frame for a smaller one? I can do all the work except prep and press the headset and bb.
>>
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>>965293
Guys i'm a poor anon from a developing country so i found a person on the internet selling this shit for 140$ is it worth the price ? *i want to get into road cycling but it's way too expensive for me *
>>
>>968258
Little off-road. Moderate road.

I've been looking at varrious race rigs. General rule for the divide is either hard tail with 100mm or rigid. Arizons trail and Colorado trail racers prefer fullsus, but general write ups tend to be hardtail only.

The consensus looks like reduce chance of mechanical failure, which is the second reason to avoid back suspension and possibly the forks too.

As such, the rigid Fargo seems preferred but it does support a 100mm fork and they sell one BUT on the X9 only which is out of my price range this year.
Surly and Salsa both have flat bar 29er options and I'm trying to get over myself on my own view that drop bars=better because that's obviously bullshit.

Then there are some people that are just running cyclocross options and they either have the knowledge to pick better lines to protect the bike or are riding less technical trails than i think they are.

There are things I know I don't need(proper fat tires or single speed) but there are things that seem to be mix and match to skill level that I just don't have the hands-on to grok.

I do want to take it slow and work up to the knowledge I need BUT I also don't want to buy more than one bike in the next 3 years.
>>
>>968311
step thru frames are for bitches, faggots and old ppl
>>
What is a good first road bike option that /n/ would recommend?
>>
>>968388
Latest Specialized Venge Dura Ace with the most expensive power meter there is.
>>
>>968311
That looks like a nice enough little bike. I you'd like some advice let us know what country you're from?
>>
>>968311
>Is it worth the price?
Is a question often asked, but almost impossible to answer because 'worth' is a highly individually subjective qualifier. It all depends on the quality and condition of the bike (which you can't really tell from a single tiny picture) , your local bike market, your personal economic situation, need and expectations. I wish people would would stop asking this question.
What i can say is that a granny bike like that is generally a poor substitute for a road bike and i don't think you'll be happy with it.

>>968318
You're a faggot. And not the cool kind.

>>968388
OTS
>>
>>968398
what's OTS mean?
>>
I want a bike to commute to my new job, it's about 1.5 miles down/up a hill. Paved road/sidewalk. Might be interested in some paths down the road, but manly now just looking for something to ride to work.

What brands should I be looking at? Checked out a local shop and they're recommending bikes around $500-600. Looked at a few, don't remember any specific brands.
>>
>>968408
Avoid department store and gas station bikes. Pretty much anything else will do.
>>
>>968388
Decathlon tribans if you live in Europe, the price range is wide and it's quality stuff, but the brand name decals looks cheap and it's not fancy. Those bikes with another name could cost you 25%-30% more.
>>
>>968416
I live in australia, sorry should have mentioned that.
>>
is there a sticky or should i just buy a new xcalibur 7?
>>
>>968430
Neither
>>
>>968402
Old Ten Speed
>>
>>968434
what do you recommend then
>>
>>968442
Depends on your budget, location, and what kind of riding are you planning on doing.
>>
>>968451
~1200$ single track, trails are usually full of roots, southeast, some up and down. getting back into mtb after a few years off and dont want to use my unreliable pos, because i will probably have a bad experience and stop riding again. so reliable parts are a top prio
>>
>>968454
I also would need a bike rack for my car but i wont factor that in.
>>
this seems like a pretty ok deal? Either this one : https://philadelphia.craigslist.org/bik/5616324128.html

Or this one by the same seller, just not sure if it's too small (I'm 5'8")
https://philadelphia.craigslist.org/bik/5610819161.html
>>
>>968481

https://philadelphia.craigslist.org/bik/5629521166.html

Might be slightly too big, but better option than either of the two you linked.
>>
>>968549
How about this? It's closer to me as well
https://philadelphia.craigslist.org/bik/5598345969.html
>>
>>968564

VX derailleurs are sturdy af, that's a better option than your first two, but still inferior to the Team USA
>>
>>968565
Really just a matter of frame sizing, don't know if I'd be as comfortable on a 54cm frame riding in the city.
>>
>>968567

No way to really tell unless you test ride. Try both? I'd wager that the Fuji is 3-4 pounds heavier than the Team USA
>>
Looking for an ok mountain bike that I could ride some local trails with. Nothing too intense. Looking to spend about 200-300 used. Can you guys help me? Here's my craigslist. Thanks.

https://wausau.craigslist.org/i/bikes
>>
Anyone got experience with Corratec 2005? Just ran into a decent looking offer.
Was originally looking for a cross bike or even cyclocross, but the Corratec 2005 looks like it would do the job just fine with different a different handlebar, new road/cross tires and a set of fenders
>>
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$1500 for this y/n?
>>
Here's a non-driveside pic since /n/ seems to have eaten the driveside one I just posted.

its a BMC TE01 2013 model with SRAM X0 drivetrain, X0 brakes, X9 shifters, Fox CTD fork, Easton EA70 XCT wheelset.

Seems like valuetown. Might be worth the 5 hour drive to check it out. Dude wants 1500 for it.

Opinions?
>>
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>>965987
Fuck off, rim brakes work just as well you picky faggot
>>
>>968408
Get something for $100 off craigslist
>>
>>968408
>1.5 miles
that's more shoestore than bikestore m8
>>
>>968635
better to find him a bike than have him climb into a 20mpg cage for that distance.
>>
>>968637
>cage
Thats more like 2 blocks
>>
>>965293

I have a Giant FCR commuter that I want to upgrade with new wheels and gears.

Worth spending $400-500 on what was a $600 bike at retail?
>>
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Parts list for a bike I'm planning to build up for next season. Anything I'm missing/wrong on or should the final weight be pretty accurate? Anywhere I could shave some grams without spending a pile of extra cash (and in fact, any savings I can eke out?)
>>
>>968612
>>968617
i would question why somebody would sell $5000 (estimate factoring in it's age) worth of high-end garbon mountainfred for $1500.
>>
Should I buy this bike /n/?
https://www.giant-bicycles.com/en-us/bikes/model/roam.2/22193/84015/
>>
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Currently have this shit bike and after 3 years i really want a real road bike, im 19 and got a job assembling department store bikes, i want a decent road bike around 1000 Canadian. what should i get? or should i make a bike? should i buy Chinese bootleg carbon?
>>
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https://sfbay.craigslist.org/eby/bik/5626611691.html

I'm really tempted. I'm gonna do it.
>>
>>968939
Isn't 19 a little young for a road bike?

Ride bmx or a fixie or something
>>
>>969069
I think this is the no 1 stupidest thing you've said yet.
>>
>>968993
don't do it, friend - they're staggeringly heavy and use component standards that are incompatible with non-china bicycles

>>968177
>>969069
Kill yourself.
>>
What would be the most you would spend on a new as for town? What about used?

What is the minimum component level you would look for in a SS?
>>
>>969094
he;s going to get more pussy on a bianchi super pista

than a giant defy in a group ride with 40+ year olds
>>
>>968637
i think he should build a catapult tho

imagine the youtube views of a dude who catapults to work. like, at least a dozen, maybe two.
>>
>>969426
Catapulting to work is fine, catapulting home would impress me.
>>
>>969409
>SS
>minimum
People use the most fucked up SS bikes for work everyday; there is no minimum for a SS.
>>
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A guy in my height (185cm) is selling this for 360 dollars. Is this a shit brand?
>>
>>969460
186cm europoor here. You guys in the US don't realize how good you have it.

I've been looking for a second hand road bikes for a while now, but there is nothing for sale under 500€ and I swear to god all road bikes that are for sale are size 54 or smaller. Shitty new road bike costs like 700€, decent ones are 1500+.

Also, there is absolutely no market whatsoever for OTS.

If I had a chance to buy ANY road bike for 320€ I wouldn't hesitate for a second.
>>
>>969460

look at those welds man, looks p crap
>>
I've been looking into getting a good entry level type of mountain bike. My budget is a soft $400 - $600. I plan on riding to work which is mostly pavement/road and riding on the trails near me.

Any suggestions?
>>
I just bought a fixie for $175. Tell me I'm an idiot, because I feel like an idiot.
>>
>>969465
Smaller sizes are hard to find used everywhere

It's because most people prefer smaller bikes

56 and 58 cm bikes are everywhere used

But if you want like a 52cm colnago used.... you're never going to find it for a good price
>>
>>969495
it was less than 200 bux man. that's well within justifiable price for satisfying curiosity.
>>
>>969495
What kind...only one I can think of that cheap are the trash tier sole or vilano
>>
>>969543
Some custom job. Spotty rust on a steel frame, drop handle bars, BLUE tires. A little too small for me...He said the rear cog was threaded and could come loose if i reamed on the back pedal too hard, which sounds retarded, but I can still trade it back to him for a freewheel if I can't stand it after a while.
>>
>>969554
>He said the rear cog was threaded and could come loose if i reamed on the back pedal too hard
Proper track hubs have a reverse thread for screwing on a lock ring precisely so this won't happen.
Sounds like he just screwed on a track sprocket on an old threaded road hub.

Also, post bike in PYBT
>>
>>969560
Will do after dinner
>>
>>969560
here it is
>>969575
>>
>>969554
>He said the rear cog was threaded and could come loose if i reamed on the back pedal too hard.

Having a fixed cog wihout a lockring is called suicide.
>>
>>969611
Sorry I don't speak french. What are you talking about?
>>
>>969613
The rear cog is almost always threaded but there is also supposed to be threads in front of the ones where you can screw on the cog, where you screw on a lock ring. Only using a cog without a lock ring to hold it in place is called "suicide setup" since you can't slow down the bike (unless you have brakes).
>>
>>969632
It has front braks
>>
>>969400
>don't do it, friend - they're staggeringly heavy and use component standards that are incompatible with non-china bicycles
But I really want a chink commie bike. Are any of the other classic flying pigeon models any better?
>>
Thinking of getting the tokyobike cs, should I?
>>
>>969674
>US$720 for a glorified old ten speed
Jeez
>>
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Hello, /n/

I am struggling to get some information without someone trying to sell me something. Im in the market for an entry level mountain bike, for exploring the local trail collection, i know ill push it on the jumps and drops before upgrading to something new. Im 6'4" 200lbs and no one has anything in my size and price range for test rides. Trying to keep it under $1000.

I will eventually want to upgrade parts, i know its more cost effective to buy it outright but i cant justify tons of cash with no experience. Read: cant afford air fork.

My front runners are the xcal7 or rockhopper sport (comp maybe). I guess im wondering what i should know or ask about between these bikes or bikes in this price range. I understand they dont have top of the line parts at this level and things will break eventually. Are the frames of a quality worthwhile for future upgrades? Is there anything significantly different down the line in upgrading specialized or trek (or any brand) that i should be aware of as a novice with no experience? Im trying to make tye smartest decision i can because i aint always got 1k to throw around.


Tl:,dr: what to consider when buying entry level mountain bikes with future upgrades in mind
>>
>>969873
For what you want to use it for, $1000 doesn't sound like enough (unless it's used).
>>
>>969875
Possibly true, but $1000 is all i got. Ive looked used and because im stupid huge pickings are slim. Additionally, since i know next to nothing other than a few months research id have no idea what to look at critically so i dont get burned. With full intention to complete all my own maintenance, ill be relying on the shops service contract in the immediate period after purchase
>>
>>969879
Just get a hard tail with decent suspension, used, and don't take it over any jumps.
>>
>>969881
It is clear to me i am the only one of the two of us assigning any importance to this $1000 purchase. What is it you know that i do not, friend
>>
Looking to cycle my uni commute next year.
~23km from rural Ireland into a city, so lots of road of varying quality, some gravel and a lot of hills

78 cm inseam
183 cm height

What should I be looking at?
>>
>>969900
forgot budget, I'll be buying in NI most likely so comfortable up to £300, would push to £400 or even £500 if it was really worth the investment
>>
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Dawes Super Galaxy
21" Reynolds 531 st frame
700c Mavic T261 wheels
Shimano Biopace chainrings
Shimano Acera Derallieur
Brooks B17 saddle
Shimano 600 shifters
SR road champion bars
RSX levers
Been professionally repainted and shop serviced annually, owned by the same gent since new, he's only selling as now in his 80's and unable to ride.

£350. thoughts?
>>
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>bought a cyclecross bicycle
>actually wanted a mountain bike
>>
>>969873
here u go f@m

http://www.pinkbike.com/buysell/list/?location=194-*-*&category=2&price=..1000&framesize=32,37,38,39,40,48,49
>>
>>969994
>http://www.pinkbike.com/buysell/list/?location=194-*-*&category=2&price=..1000&framesize=32,37,38,39,40,48,49

'ppreciate the good look. pinkbike i was not aware of. again, nothing XL within 100 miles. i am fuk
>>
>>969986
>he fell for the ciclocross meme
>>
>>969986
cyclocross bikes are do nothing well bikes and do everything moderatly okay ish kinda bikes
>>
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How much can I expect to pay for a decent used mountain bike? looking for a hardtail with hydraulic discs.
>>
>>970041
like a G or so, probably. seems to be the median for decent-tier used hardtails.
>>
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Guy is asking $200 for this bike, but I know that's over priced. How much should I offer him ?
>>
Anyone familiar with the brand "Takara" ?
>>
>>970066
That's a reasonable price, looks in pretty mint condition, tires look new. Anyhow, offer $150.
>>
>>970066
If it's in as good of shape as it looks and doesn't need any consumables replaced soon, $200 is fair.

>>970068
Familiar, yes, but there was always a range of bikes sold under the Takara brand, from mediocre to great, so you'll have to be more specific about what you're looking at.

>>970041
You might get lucky, but where I live $500 or so would be a typical price for something used with hydraulic discs.

>>969955
If the bike is in great condition and owner can include some panniers that's a solid deal on a touring bike.
>>
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>>970071
I am >>970068
The year is not mentioned, nor model. I hope the picture can help.
>>
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>>970072
>stem shifters
>non-aero brake levers
>huge lugs
>probably hiten
>fat springy saddle
>centerpulls
>>
>>970072
That Takara is from the late 70's, very basic but serviceable, cables and housing need help, worth $150 if the tires are good and everything works. Should fit a rider 6'-6'4".
>>
>>970072
SLAM THAT STEM
>>
this worth driving thirty minutes to pick up?
https://philadelphia.craigslist.org/bik/5642722609.html
>>
>>970237
No way - mediocre frame, crappy parts
>>
>>970247
Dang, search continues then
>>
>>970237
For $100 you could do much worse. If I were you I'd grab it, hope you're at least 6'0" though
>>
What do you guys think of the Felt V85?
>>
>>970292
Not that i have any personal experience with it, but a quick googling of it says i like it a lot.
Would ride/10
>>
>>970292
>disc brakes
>quick release levers
enjoy your smashed teeth
>>
>>970311
Just tighten the qr's properly and there won't be problem. Sure ta's are preferable, but qr's should not be a deal breaker unless your strong enough to really ride on the limit.
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>>970311
Fuck off sieg.
>>
Another noob/novice. Looking to buy a roadbike later this month. My last bike was a Peugeot Grand Sport from 1974 and I liked it but rust finally caught up on it. I plan on using the bike for excercise and have planned a roadtrip through Germany. Budjet is 600-1000 euro. Not looking for anything too fancy just a bike that will last a long time and is light to ride.I'm 181cm or 5'11. Formatting is gonna suck balls writing from a phone. Thanks a bunch for answers
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should i really save up the extra grand for the garbon version? i honestly don't think i "need" it being an intermediate-level rider. if anything i can just upgrade the fork and drivetrain, then put those on garbon if i really think i have to have it in the future.
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>>970356
Bianchi Volpe or Volpe Disc. Nice light tourer. Not a fan of the Tiagra chainset it comes with because it's ugly.

The Raleigh Royal is decent, a little heftier than the Volpe. Dunno if it's available outside of the UK.

>>970494
No.
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>>970498
yeah i was thinking No, but it's nice to have experienced riders weigh in on this kinda stuff. i'm putting in the order for the aluminum 650B tomorrow afternoon. thanks!
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>>970311
I'm sure that carbon fiber won't crack and eject the wheel at 60mph....

Actually one less cuck in the world go bomb some downhills with it!
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Someone PLEASE discourage me against buying either this used CR1 or F2

https://athensga.craigslist.org/bik/5612805479.html
http://atlanta.craigslist.org/atl/bik/5638916629.html
Both seem like deals too good to be true, although I'm very hesitant about the Felt given its high mileage. Which should I consider (if at all) or do I have reason to be suspicious?
>>
>>970514
ask if you can come inspect the bikes. if there's nothing fishy going on i'd think they'd agree.
>>
>>970539
Outside of taking a quick ride on one, getting a mileage estimate, inspecting for cracks or irregularities in the bearings, shifting, wheels and frame, what else should I ask? How binding is an auction of I end up getting conned by something not immediatly obviously out of place with the bike?
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Opinions on this for a first road bike? http://richmond.craigslist.org/bik/5643814113.html
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>>970036
>I fell for the cyclocross meme
I guess I'll have to get used to it or try out a different setup I don't want to take the hit on resale because I was dumb enough to buy a new bike
>>
Currently riding a real fucking heavy dualsport I got off a brazilian exchange student for $40. Commute is only ~8 miles so it's not that bad, but the hills are killer.
Think this one would be okay for general commuting and occasional run to the grocery store? Any other bikes in the Orono, ME area you'd suggest?
http://maine.craigslist.org/bik/5548377718.html
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>>970544
>what else should I ask?
general maintenance routine, crash history, type of riding they did. sales like this are generally 'caveat emptor' so make sure you give it a good once-over before you fork any cash.

if you have any reservations at all i strongly advise against purchasing.
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is this good for 125 its listed as a vintage 25'' fuji also is 25'' a mistake it seems really smol for a bike
>>
I have a 19" fuji absolute (stock) I'm selling, two people are interested one is a girl @5'4 and the other is a guy are 5'10. Neither of them have physically sat on the bike yet, but are either of them likely to feel comfortable? (particularly if they are newbies who don't know what is right or wrong for them?).
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>>970593
the dude could get on with a 19, the chick is a bit petite for it
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>>970590
it's a big bike
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>>970596

For you.
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How much would I be looking at to get the pieces to turn this frame into a working bike? https://philadelphia.craigslist.org/bik/5643995923.html

Very new to this and so far finding a bike in the right size that's not trash is a hassle. There is a local bike co-op (more a small store really) near me that I would be sourcing parts from.
>>
>>970616
Generally building bikes from the frame up is more expensive than buying a complete bike.

There are 2 people on the history of /n/ who successfully built up frame up bikes.

1: great white with a carbon fiber argon 18

2: me, but I cheated since I bought a brand new nashbar frame and added everything to cart at the same time
>>
>>970311
>>970500
Can you guys post your bikes so I can see an example of the type of bike I should buy.
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