/bqg/ - Bike Questions General
Resources:
http://sheldonbrown.com/
http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help
If you want help picking out a bicycle, post in >>>/n/bbg , not here.
Old thread(s):
>>961254
>>958581 <-- shit OP
I have some noise coming from my rear derailleur, it's easy to notice when I back pedal.
It seems to be at the same point of the chain every time.
I'm pretty certain it's the chain?
I had my chain stuck in my fd and pulled it out hard. Bent my fd but was able to bend it back (this actually happened twice over a few months desu) . I think chain age plus getting stuck in the fd damaged the chain? But I'm not totally sure. Do I sound right in my reasoning? I've only done 1200km but he bike is second Hand, I don't know how many the previous owner did.
Also do I need to change my cassette at the same time... I'd rather save monies.
Front Derailleur. Friction vs Trigger: which one is better? Trigger because it works on set movements or friction because muh audible feedback when you're not centering the FD? I personally have never tried trigger but I know I hate friction, because it's "guesstimating" shit.
>>963645
Stop backpedaling. It's incredibly easy to check if you have a kinked chain. You just watch the chain go over the jockeys until you find the one that doesn't sit right. Then you loosen it.
>>963649
Then don't use friction. Or you could properly set your stops, and use modern ramped and pinned chainrings, and then they really won't seem all that different if you're running a double.
>>963652
Triple crankset, spent hours trying to set it up, cable tension and screws, after replacing cable and lubing everything this is the best I've come up with, and even though I've adjusted the limit as tight as I could, it still will end up shifting just a notch past the highest ring (48) literally spinning on the chainguard (the shape makes it work almost like a fourth ring except being slick plastic so it spins loosely.
>So why don't you readjust the highest limit just a notch back?
Do it, even so much as a fraction of a millimiter and it won't reach biggest ring. The only alternative is changing cable tension but that still overshoots at times because I have to put way more force into shifting.
In my opinion it's a shit system because it too much depends on "autistic" fine tuning and way too accurate shifting (like, you aren't feeling your thumb and you need shifting? Well tough shit, your attempt will bounce back because you didn't put enough force into it. Weren't you spinning enough/were you spinning too much? Well tough shit, chain will get stuck).
I was wondering if trigger helps in this regard.
>>963655
millimeter*
>>963655
>Triple crankset, spent hours trying to set it up, cable tension and screws, after replacing cable and lubing everything this is the best I've come up with, and even though I've adjusted the limit as tight as I could, it still will end up shifting just a notch past the highest ring (48) literally spinning on the chainguard (the shape makes it work almost like a fourth ring except being slick plastic so it spins loosely.
Then either your chainline is completely messed up or your derailer is now broken and you need a longer limit screw. Or you have your derailer too high up, and the chain is slipping under the cage. Get rid of the retard guard if it gets in the way of the derailer.
>Do it, even so much as a fraction of a millimiter and it won't reach biggest ring.
This makes no sense with what you said. You said the limit screw is in all the way. You're not even making sense. If your chain jams as a normal thing, your set up is already screwed up. All shifters do is pull cables.
Ive got a nice AGU jersey but its clearly made for someone with a gut, there is just extra space on the front. Is this normal for cycling jerseys? Are there special jerseys for people without big ass guts? What can I do to fix it?
>>963660
Git gut
>>963662
kek'd
>>963657
Because your derailer cage is bent and/or not parallel to the chainring.
Recently got my first job (im 18) as a bicycle assembler for big box stores, think there is anything i should know of? working for dis company.
>>963724
make sure the fork is on the right way
That's the most common error I see on those things.
Can the FD have some wobble? As in, you pinch with thumb, gently try to move it around and it slightly jiggles, or is it supposed to stay still in one piece locked with cable tension or wherever you push it when testing?
I'm looking for my first real pair of cycling shoes that aren't Chrome SPD compatible shoes. I'd like to get some mountain/CX shoes, not road right now.
Any recommendations? I'm kind of eyeing some Mavic shoes but I can't really find much on them.
>>963759
don't buy shoes online
Has anyone on /n/ used based Jan's compass tyres?
Plush fat tyres is incredibly tempting for my commuter/do everything bike but the lack of any sort of puncture protection is worrisome in the city and 'burbs.
>>963761
The only shoes I can find around here are specialized and bontrager in store and mostly road shoes.
>>963763
I haven't used them but the high TPI on those things will probably save you from a lot of flats. Puncture protection is sort of a gimmick term. Every tire has puncture protection, otherwise we'd be riding on naked tubes
My experience with high end tires is all Schwalbe Marathon Supremes, which are semi slick like the compass tires, but probably have some more thought put in to puncture protection. I've even got a flat on any of them, for years now
My road bike has rubino pros ($50?) @ 120 TPI and I've gotten maybe two flats a year riding in downtube philadelphia, and the streets here are nasty
All about TPI imho. High TPI + plush, sorta-light tire is the best in the world for non competitive riding
>>963774
>I've even got a flat on any of them, for years now
* I've never gotten
Why do replaceable pedal pins exist? Just how long would you have to ride a pair of pedals to wear them out with rubber soles?
>>963822
You lose pins to pedal strike
>>963825
Maybe that wouldn't happen if they were permanently fixed.
>>963825
or, you put some Loctite on them and never lose any.
>>963655
There are two main problems that you are having:
1. Your bike is a piece of shit. The components on it are completely fucking terrible. The indexed shifter you have is every bit as awful as the friction shifter, you just don't realize it.
2. You have no idea what you are doing and you've completely fucked your drivetrain.
You're blaming "friction shifting" for your own inability to set up a drivetrain properly. That's it.
>>963759
I'm a fan of Shimano CT40 but they're out of stock everywhere now unless you have midget feet.
Check the last thread for some pics.
Security Skewers...
Does anyone use them?
I just bought a very fancy bike in a town that mostly has shit bikes (and they get stolen).
Obviously a first-rate lock is on my shopping list but I'd hate to lose my cockpit to a 5mm allen key and scissors. My seat is more ordinary but still...wheelset is probably better than any other one that gets parked outside a supermarket around here.
Anyone use pic related or anything similar?
>>963822
You can adjust their height or remove them.
I pulled a few out of one and put a half clip on it. Kinda lol but I liked it
>>963862
mini U lock best b/c harder to pry open. A 2x4 wedged the right way and jumped on can break some full sized u locks
Sheldon brown locking method renders rear wheel and frame secure while allowing you to carry a mini u lock bc you're only going around the rear wheel
Front wheel... I have survive parking my CAAD5 in philadelphia with a hex bolt skewer. Wheel was only a 105+Mavic cxp 22 or something, but nice enough.
Wifes shit bike rear wheel with BOLT on rear axle got stolen --- I think crackheads steal what is easy. Adjustable wrench more common than allen keys
uh, but get a pitlock if you are really concerned
Cockpit and saddle: dial everything in perfectly and then glue ball bearings into the nuts. Google around for this, I never had to try it but there are certain glues that are better
>>963862
Had a pair in my campus bike, they made me feel safer. No way to tell if it deleted any would b wheel thief, for a couple bucks it's good insurance if you have moderately expensive wheels.
Obligatory no lock is thief proof just s deterrent for opportunists
I have a question about gearing:
How much different would a 25/9T be compared to 25/8T or 24/8T?
>>963862
Don't leave your nice bike outside
>>963639
Some of the worst tools I've owned. Was a gift from me mum so I felt bad not using them otherwise.
>>963724
Being a monkey earns you more money than doing it right.
>>963732
Does it work?
>>963759
Yes, I can tell you that brand perfect fit will perfectly fit your unique foot shape and is perfect and does not run small or large and is exactly the size of your foot. Buy perfect fit brand shoes every time. Idiot.
>>963763
Then don't buy overpriced tires. All Compass products are premium products with huge mark-ups. They're not practical in any sense of the word that includes being economical.
>>963771
Then be a jerk and buy 20 pairs of shoes from Nashbar and return the ones you don't like.
>>963774
>I haven't used them but the high TPI on those things will probably save you from a lot of flats.
Are you retarded?
>Puncture protection is sort of a gimmick term. Every tire has puncture protection, otherwise we'd be riding on naked tubes
Yes you are.
>My experience with high end tires is all Schwalbe Marathon Supremes
It's the Schwalbe shill. That explains everything.
>My road bike has rubino pros
Which is an all-rounder tire with extra flat protection.
>>963822
It lets you customize them, and you grind them down with pedal strike.
>>963828
>>963831
They still get ground down
>>963833
He should just buy indexed shifting because it will confuse him even more.
>>963862
Don't leave a fancy bike outside. Is this really so hard? Racers say only race what you can afford to replace. The same goes for commuters.
>>963868
What the heldon method does not do is protect you against an idiot that thinks only the wheel is locked, tries to remove your wheel, bending your derailer in the process, and then kicks the shit out of your bike for not being easy to steal like he thought.
>>963870
They can be defeated with a universal socket which has a head with lots of pins. Not that people carry those around.
>>963968
They didn't teach you how to do division in grade school?
>bmx gearing
Oh, you're still in grade school. Don't worry, they'll teach you how to next year
>>964006
>Being a monkey earns you more money than doing it right.
?
But yea the guy who trained me said to do it as efficiently as possible, he also used an impact driver and a hammer to align things ( front derailleur) one bike assembly is 4$ so if i pump out 4 bikes an hour that is 16 dollaroos.
>>964008
The guy who trained you is a monkey. He also earns more than you if you try to do things right.
>>964009
even though his methods are wrong, the results of the bicycle are decent,the gears are adjusted as best as possible and everything else is decently fine tuned, he has worked at high end bike stores too, its a department store bicycle so expectations are low.
>>964010
>hammer
>got fired from high end bike store
Even more of a monkey than the average LBS wrench.
>>964015
he didnt get fired, he just wanted his weekends, he has 20+ years expierience. I dont think anyone who is a bicycle enthusiast would spend too much time on department store bikes as they know that only so much can be done to them.
>>964016
>20+ years as a bike mechanic
>too much responsibility bruh, want my weekends back
Shit like this is why I do my own maintenance.
>>964016
>I dont think anyone who is a bicycle enthusiast
I don't think anyone that is a bicycle enthusiast would intentionally subject themselves to working a dead end job building department store bikes as a career choice.
>>964021
did you not read the original post?
>first job
>im 18
its also in season so there is plenty of work.
IMO its a whole lot better being a burger flipper
So, I got a shorter stem on my bike. Previously the fit was fine, on a 100mm stem + 650mm bar I felt good, no pains, but the bike felt about as agile as a truck.
Now, with the new 60mm stem, after 45 minutes of riding or so, my shoulders hurt. Not ultra bad pain, but enough to hurt until I stop. The bike feels good and agile, but I'm riding with my hands pretty much hugging the extremities of the bar.
I guess this is because of the stem, as its the only thing I changed - now the bar is too short and I'm riding too tense and hunched because I can't extend my arms maybe? I tried the "push ups" method and I put my hands about 710mm away, should I get a 700mm handlebar then? That would fix my pains?
>>964023
>20+ years expierience
Are you autistic?
>>964023
Something tells me you are going to be there for a while...
>>964024
>650mm bar
>700mm bar
>>964025
i thought you were referring to me, but the guy who trained me enjoyed his work so who are we to judge i guess.....
>>964024
Switch the stem back you complete fucking moron.
>>964029
>who are we to judge
I am judging him. He's a monkey.
>the guy who trained me enjoyed his work
He's a double monkey.
>>964028
want me to call it handlebar?
>>964031
how about no? I'd rather deal with the pain then, this is a mtb, not a road bike, by the way. With the 100mm stem it felt really bad in corners - either no responsiveness, or too much responsiveness, because of the huge angle I had to move my arms to get a decent turn.
>>964006
>It's the Schwalbe shill
No, that's me. That anon just likes them.
>>964006
>Don't leave a fancy bike outside. Is this really so hard?
I still need to do shopping and I ride to do that.
I don't want to buy a nice bike and have it gather dust, I want to ride it around town everyday but minimise possibility of theft.
>>964035
>want me to call it handlebar?
What part of "Autistic Fredposter" don't you understand?
>>964035
>want me to call it handlebar?
I'm implying you're trying to compensate for something, like a you having short stem.
>>964043
>I still need to do shopping and I ride to do that.
You can walk. It's not like it's uphill in both directions.
>What part of "Autistic Fredposter" don't you understand?
He can't solve the puzzle alone.
>>963645
Tight chain link probably. Or if your chain has ever broken and you put in a new link, the new link can cause that if the chain is stretched and sprockets are worn, in which case a new unstretched link will cause skipping. Probably just a tight link though if it's indeed at the same part of the chain. Easy to fix by flexing the chain or using a chain tool.
>>963649
Friction isn't really "guesstimating", the derailleur will kind of fall into place right over the sprocket even if your shift is a little off. At least that's how it works on my bike with friction shifters. Most people use indexed shifters (what you referred to as trigger), they are basically the successor to friction shifters. So most people would say indexed is better. Personal preference though.
>>963655
Make sure your derailler is at the right height and is straight and is not bent/damaged.
>Well tough shit, your attempt will bounce back because you didn't put enough force into it.
Depending on what exactly you mean by this -- It might help to tighten the mounting bolt of the shifter. If the bolt is loose, then the shifter will have a tendency to slip and let slack into the cable, making the derailleur shift into a smaller sprocket. Not sure if that has anything to do with your issue.
>>963660
May help to get a race fit jersey rather than club fit. Or get euro fit instead of amerifat fit.
>>963724
Make sure brakes are tight so you don't get someone killed. Make sure headset is tight. Make sure all bolts are tight.
>>963732
If you're in the small chainring, you can push it towards the big chainring by hand. If it's in the big chainring, you can *not* push it towards the small chainring, due to cable tension. If you just mean a little wobbly, make sure all the bolts are tight.
>>963759
Go to a LBS and try some on. I like Bontrager shoes. Depends on the shape of your foot and personal preference.
>>963862
Why not just use a u-lock with Sheldon's locking method or a folding lock to lock the rear wheel and frame, then also have a cable lock to lock the front wheel and frame? 2 locks and both wheels locked = thiefs probably won't bother. I like the Bordo Ecolution 6000 folding lock a lot. Thieves aren't used to seeing folding locks so might be less likely to attempt to break it. They have experience breaking chains and u locks.
>>964010
He should be banned from jobs involving working on bicycles for the rest of his life.
>>964024
Go to a bike fitter.
>>964006
>what you can afford to replace
Afford to replace and want to replace are different things. I want to ride this bike and lock it up and not have it stolen. I'd like to maximise the likelihood of this.
>>964052
>You can walk. It's not like it's uphill in both directions.
Walking is for people who don't hime hime
Actually it's complete flatland here, the only incline for at least 15km is the on-ramp of the ring-road.
>>964074
>u-lock...or a folding lock
>Sheldon method
Modified Sheldon but yeah, that's fine. I'm just thinking about the cockpit and to a lesser extent, the front wheel. I have a good folding lock for my current bike and I'll buy another for this new one, that's not the issue.
>>963868
>uh, but get a pitlock if you are really concerned
Do you (or any other anons) have opinions about the different kinds/brands of pitlocks/skewers?
I think I'm more concerned about the 105 cockpit than the wheelset which aren't that special and moderately easily replaced with cheaper generic wheels.
Most bikes around here are BSO fixies, until I did something about it, my stepson literally rode a bike that was a free gift for opening a credit card. And these bikes get stolen and resold constantly, admittedly usually from universities.
I have a 105 CX, anything with brifters is going to stand out a mile. I'd like to use it and keep it for as long as possible, especially because it is an incredible amount of work to import a bike like that around here.
So...
Best pitlock/stem nut to secure the cockpit?
>>964085
>Modified Sheldon but yeah, that's fine. I'm just thinking about the cockpit and to a lesser extent, the front wheel. I have a good folding lock for my current bike and I'll buy another for this new one, that's not the issue.
If you have a cable lock in addition to the u-lock or folding lock, you can use the cable lock (which is light and cheap) to lock the front wheel. Or, if using a folding lock, remove the front wheel, set it next to the rear wheel, and lock both wheels and the frame with the one lock. But two locks is always a deterrent, especially if it's two different types of locks, because then a thief has to cut two locks for one bike.
>>964086
>locking wheels
I understand how to lock wheels, we all do that.
I'm more concerned about the cockpit.
>>964085
You do realize even if you get a pit lock for you stem cap, they can just take the face plate off, right?
>>963639
Dug old bike outta the garage that no one's used in years. It's drive train is filthy. What's' a goodway to go about cleaning it without messing up the drivetrain or the chain?
>>964092
You're just incompetent. That or you're a pro mechanic that is using hobby grade tools every day.
>>964086
Fucking trip fag. all hail the all knowing!
Ribbon is still ribbon.
The only answer is mo mini-u (^-° t)
>>964087
If your bike has really nice components, don't leave it locked up. If a thief wants your parts, he'll take them.
>>964090
>You do realize even if you get a pit lock for you stem cap, they can just take the face plate off, right?
No I didn't, I'm not sure what the faceplate is.
>>964126
nvm, I worked it out
>>964126
>they can just take the face plate off
So, back to the drawingboard and I need to think of a way to secure the faceplate too.
A temporary solution is to fill in the hexheads with superglue/bearings I guess but it's not ideal. Maybe I can get some proprietary bolts for it, NDS style. That would stop a thief outside a supermarket. A targeted theft isn't worth worrying about anyway of course.
>>964072
>Tight chain link probably. Or if your chain has ever broken and you put in a new link, the new link can cause that if the chain is stretched and sprockets are worn, in which case a new unstretched link will cause skipping. Probably just a tight link though if it's indeed at the same part of the chain. Easy to fix by flexing the chain or using a chain tool.
Well I just checked and can't find any bad links. I lube the chain often so it's quite flexible. Actually, it is loud on the jockey wheels all of the time. Even if it did catch much worse on a specific spot.
I can't really tell what's wrong. Some how there's a lot of friction in the rear. The free wheel is working ok. I compared my 10 speed road bike to my decade old mtb. There is simply so much more noise on the jockey wheels on my road bike. If I throw the cranks backwards it really highlights how much friction there is on my road bike because the cranks stop much quicker than they do when I do the same on my mtb. As well as when I'm out on the road, it's just too loud compared to others bikes.
Problem is that this chain shouldn't be stretched yet. I've done about 1250km on it and the previous owner was out of shape so I really doubt he did much at all. I'm pretty sure the bike is only two or three years old. I don't want to buy a new cassette and chain and have the same problem. I'm wondering if there's any other cause for this loud jockey wheels and friction. I can't see any. It's a kmc chain btw. I plan on getting a directional ultegra 10 speed chain to replace it and a cs-hg500 cassette. They're compatible, right?
>>964166
No one can help you if you can't articulate your problems.
>>964174
I'm very articulate
>>964177
>tldr loud jockey wheels/drive train
Rubbing somewhere due to poorly adjusted/bent dérailleur? That would be my first guess.
I didn't bother reading the entire thread of replies. It would take longer than it's worth.
Why can't poor fags just buy a fucking phone and take a picture of their problems rather than trying to poorly explain something when they have no idea how to.
>>964093
>I dont buy into the expensive tools meem :^)
>tips le campy cycling cap
Not everyone uses their tools once every six years my melanin enriched individual
>>964207
You are clearly just incompetent. A bad mechanic blames his tools and all that crap.
>>964181
>>964209
Enough wear to warrant replacement or "I've been riding with mine snapped in half and no problem with shifting throughout death valley"?
>>964223
>implying your tools caused you to misadjust your fd and cause you to ride around with your chain rubbing
>>964225
You still haven't answered, it was a serious question. Should I bother hooking it back?
>>964229
>blaming your tools
>acting like you have experience
>asking stupid questions
To answer your question you're an incompetent.
>>964231
I wasn't the guy you were arguing with, I literally just came here, saw the "post pics" and did that. And I don't think it's a stupid question, I really need to know if I have to change the shit.
>>964233
>I wasn't the guy you were arguing with, I literally just came here, saw the "post pics" and did that
But you linked a separate conversation about cheap toolkits and confused the guy you were talking to.
I'm replacing the brake wires and housing on my 10-speed with a generic purchased set. Is there any trick to cutting the housing to the right size? My uncle tried telling me there's something special with the housing that needs to be cut properly so the housing doesn't pinch the cable but he's not in the same state to show me how to do that.
Is steel real?
>>964249
>but he's not in the same state to show me how
For a second I thought you meant that he was now too drunk to tell you.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oL82JM7H2Bw
There's tons of vids on youtube for practically any task. Some are shit but you can watch a few and made some judgement about them.
>>964250
Steel is real.
But the implication that carbon, aluminum, and titanium are not is fake as fuck.
>>964249
make sure to use the right tool or you'll fuck it up.
>>964249
He is correct.
As for cutting the right size, the easiest way is to cut to the same lengths of the previous housing.
It is also important for the housing ends to be square. The easiest way to get them square is to use a dremel with a cutting wheel. There will be sparks - wear eye protection.
There are some other fidgety things involved that can improve performance and cable life.
>>964250
Of course not.
Can you see it, touch it?
>bought 1972 Schwinn Super Sport
>have trouble shifting to the larger cogs (on cassette and and chain rings, i.e., rear and front), but shifting to the smaller ones is smooth enough.
>cables are pretty old; potentially the problem?
>don't expect shifting to be perfect or even good; just want to know if i can make it better.
>>963759
these are pretty great spd cleats.
>>964327
You really are a shitty mechanic if you can't tighten two bolts and have to blame the tools for that
>>964339
Most definitely an issue with the limit screws and cable tension on both your derailleurs. Consult ParkTool's pages on derailleur adjustment.
Also get new cables, they're dirt cheap.
>>963639
Where should the cleat go for clipless pedals? Specifically SPD. That is, where on the foot should it be for best results? Ball off center? Ball proper?
>>964344
Heel.
>>964351
Anon pls
>>963639
New to riding and just bought a bike, is there a reason I don't see a lot of riders using camelbaks? They aren't that expensive and it would seem that they are more convenient than a water bottle, any reason?
>>964357
Your back can get sweatier than it might without a pack on, and many people find it uncomfortable to have a hydration pack on a road bike because of the riding position. I don't personally have a problem with either of those things, and ride with a hydration pack if I'm going to be out for more than 3 hours.
They are pretty common for mountain bikers to use.
Any tips on not scratching my legs every time I come off my bike? I feel spandex might be too thin and I'd go through a pair every season.
>>964365
What are you scratching your legs against?
>>964367
New peddles I just bought
>>964368
Why? How?
>>964386
Yes I've been riding in a new place and I come off frequently.
The scratches are pretty bad I might have to take it back a notch.
>>964390
>Yes I've been riding in a new place and I come off frequently.
Then leave the lycra until you git gud.
Have you considered pic related?
You can get vented soft-shell versions. Might be what you want until you git gud.
Google bmx armour
>>964398
I gotta git gud by riding outside my comfort zone.
That shit's all too expensive. I'm just going to get some thick winter socks and cut the toes out and use that to protect my calfs
Stylin
>>964343
I will have a look at them again. I thought the tension was right and that all was aligning properly. Read the articles. Could be height of the front derailleur. Could need to tighten the barrel. Wires should be replaced too, might not have good enough tension. will update.
Has anyone bought anything from all4cycling.com?
Are they any good?
Assuming I am starting with all the tools but no components, is it cheaper to build a bike from a new frameset or just buy complete?
>>964528
That depends on what you want out of a bike.
If you want just a bike, then buy complete. If you have something specific in mind you can't get off the shelf, it may not be cheaper to buy complete.
>>964528
Complete is always cheaper than buying the same individual parts. Most completes come with shit wheels and components though so you can't usually get a good bike by buying complete.
In UK, need rubbing alcohol to clean brakes and rims. Can't seem to find it because UK is a nanny state and doesn't want people drinking anything.
Will any of these available at my local store suffice?
> White spirit
> Turpentine substitute
> Clean spirit
> Paint brush cleaner
> Minersalised methylated spirit
>>964533
>Paint brush cleaner
That's probably the same thing.
You basically want nail polish remover AKA Acetone or Isopropyl alcohol. Some tech shops will have the latter, supermarkets or chemists will probably have the former. Actually Boots might have either.
Come to think of it, Acetone might damage rubber compounds in brake pads and tires so I might not use that there. At least test it first with an old brake pad.
>>964535
I don't have an old brake pad and can't afford to fuck up my wheels.
Amazon UK stocks 70% stuff https://www.amazon.co.uk/Health-Beauty-Isopropyl-Rubbing-Alcohol-First-Septic/dp/B00FQLUHSI so I might just go with that.
Just seems like brick and mortar shops in the UK can't be fucked to deal with the consequences of selling this stuff to the wrong people.
Some pharmacists are citing terrorism laws for reasons why they can't sell to the public.
>>964532
This.
Basically, what happens is bike manufacturers can buy shitty parts for much cheaper than you can.
They can get shitty OEM bars, stems, seatposts, saddles, tires, frames etc for far cheaper than you can ever hope. They probably get Tekro and FSA for far far less than the retail prices would imply.
If you build a bike using top quality parts, it usually runs about the same as a complete using all top quality parts. Which is why lots of top quality frames are sold as frame-only to be built up by shops.
>>964533
>Can't seem to find it because UK is a nanny state and doesn't want people drinking anything.
That's because it isn't called "rubbing alcohol" in the UK and if anyone is drinking isopropyl alcohol they're in for a very bad time.
tl;dr: Buy isopropyl alcohol.
>>964540
I'm just entertaining the idea right now.
Mostly I've been using the illusion of a frameset build to learn about groups and gearings.
>>964550
Couldn't find that shit in Wilko either.
Boots sell "surgical spirit" but I just got rubbing alcohol on eBay for £3 delivered from a hair place. Fuck Boots. They'd probably question why I want it and assume I'm an alcoholic from the way I look.
>>964552
What's your budget and what do you want out of a bike?
>>964101
>>964090
>>964086
>>964074
>>964006
>>963971
>Hi I have a question about security product that might be an improvement over the default, has anyone used it?
>NO JUST DO THE DEFAULT
Jesus people, he's not asking if there's an infinitely powerful security tool that cannot be defeated, everyone knows that
>>964575
>blames not being able to install a hollowtech crank on the fact that he used a plain allen wrench and his bike tool set didnt come with the shimano preload tool
>>964580
>removes faceplate
>>964597
>cant installed a crank without blaming the tools
>>964607
>blaming tools for shitty worksmanship
Looking at creating a bike packing set up rugged enough for at least part of the AZTr, budget is the cost of a new Salsa Fargo (or equivalent)+ whatever changes I would end up making. Not a race rig but certainly not low-end.
Part of the planning from bottom up is to find out what I want (even if only as an exercise) and even if I settle on stock or even end up buying used I'll know I tried.
Questions I have (here near the start) are about the gearing options to reduce complications vs having full range. 1x11seems interesting for not needing a front derailleur but probably isn't a wide enough range for extended climbing. Honestly, I could justify everything from 1 to 3 up front.
Trying to consider mechanical disc vs rim brakes.
Pricing: buying friction shifters and basic brake levers vs the full mid-tier group.
>>964613
And I haven't even considered wheelers at all.
>>963639
i just got a new bike and there's what seems to be a dent in the middle of the top tube. is that a dent or is it just paint? If its a dent is it something to worry about? I don't know anything about bikes
pic related
>>964682
Definitely a dent, return it
>>964693
Son of a bitch
>>964708
Actually it's no big deal, it's not like it's gonna compromise the frame's structural integrity or anything, but it is very much so a dent, and it would probably be in your mind for the rest of your life
>>964682
Doesn't even look like a dent. Looks like a chip in the base layer paint before the top coats were applied. If it doesn't bother you don't worry about it. You'll pick up much worse paint defects with time.
But...
Is steel real?
>>964763
I like a very light gun oil for prepping spoke nipples.
Thanks for helping me out in the last thread, faggots.
Took your advice and brought my bike to the LBS and got new trigger and bike levers, cables, v-brakes. So much better, I love it.
>>964815
Probably because the shop adjusted the derailers, which is something you do when you change shifters.
>>964743
Nah it won't really bother me if I know it's not structurally compromising. It looks bigger/worse in the picture. On the bike its hard to notice but you can feel the indent. I just wanted to make sure cause its smack dab right in the middle, didn't know if it was a cause for concern. Thanks for the help
>>964752
Yeah thats what i'm hoping it is. The only reason it would bother me is if it was structurally compromising. Glad to know its not. Thanks for the help
>>964815
I messed with the high low screws on the front derailer last weekend to the point of fuck this, I made it 10x worse. But old ass original cable also had a part in it, friend
>>964815
i saw a red one of these sitting in a dumpster last night (i was at a drive through) it was red and i remember that specialized logo and tacky hard rock sticker distinctively
it was actually in better condition than the one you have
>>964223
[nonanswer]
>admonishment
>>964859
I saw a tripfaggot sitting in a dumpster posting on an Ecuadorian sharing platform. Am I supposed to be offended by that? Kill yourself
>>964879
I'm not defending anyone involved but what actually happened is that two anons having some weird argument about tools were accidentally linked by a problem-anon wanting an answer to their problem, then one of the idiot-anons thought that problem-anon was the other idiot-anon.
Problem-anon ought to repost their question more carefully.
>>964223
The deraileur cage isn't a load bearing structure so personally, I wouldn't care. Even if it failed, it's unlikely to be catastrophic, just crack and then won't shift as well.
Never had that problem personally though.
>>964223
>problem clearly due to extreme chain rub
>hurrdurr warranty replacement
Why do you people do this? It fucks shit up for those of us that want actual problems fixed under warranty because we then have to jump through hoops to prove we aren't one of you dropped babies.
Stop it, you silly person.
>>964223
>warrant replacement
>>964971
>warranty replacement
l2in2English
>>964971
>>964934
>>964978
Also asked the best LBS there is here (in the business for like a century) and both the old ass owner and his son said "it won't affect shit". And they were right, because after taking it apart, cleaning it properly, hooking it back together with pic related and spending like five real time hours to fine tune it and find the near perfect height and angle, it still works like a charm. Oh, and moving from friction to indexing was the right choice for me.
I wrecked my bike and need some advice.
Bike was a mint 80s Schwinn World that i have a sentimental attachment to. Was riding fairly fast on a dark street with a lock hanging from my handlebars (very stupid, i know), hit a pothole that i never saw, the lock swung and got caught in my front wheel, causing me to go over the bars.
The front wheel was completely detached from the bike when i picked it up. The front fork was bent in the accident. The best way i can descrive it is it's splayed out - the gap in the fork is normally 1-2 inches, it's about 5 now.
My question is, how should i go about fixing this? Is this something that can just be bent back into shape, or has it lost its integrity? Is it even worth fixing? If i cant bend it back, where will i even find a fork for this bike?
Thanks.
>>965034
>The front fork was bent in the accident
Just replace the fork.
You can probably buy something roughly similar via an LBS, find a hipster one that deals in steel fixies or something, they can probably source one.
Alternatively, if they're a thing where you are, your local community bike workshop probably has forks lying around from otherwise wrecked frames.
You could always check craigslist for a cheap 80s steel road bike that is otherwise terrible. You don't care if it has a rusted derailer and stuck downtube shifters, just rip the fork off and use it on yours.
>>965041
Thanks. Will any fork fit or do i need to find a bike like mine?
>>965046
any fork of the same size and type (ie. you're not going to use an mtb fork on a road bike)
just google around a bit and you should find the info you need
>>965046
>Will any fork fit or do i need to find a bike like mine?
You need a fork of the right diameter, I'm getting a bit out of my depth here. Depending on which option you take, take along your old fork and/or bike and see what people think.
If you're buying something off craigslist, a similar road bike will probably be fine but bring your fork to be sure.
>>965046
You need a fork with the right diametre (probably 1") and the exact same steerer and thread length. Just coming off the same model bike doesn't do it - size matters more.
This is why everyone abandoned threaded forks in favour of Ahead.
>>965066
This but you can get away with running a few spacers on most threaded headsets if the steerer is slightly larger, or you could cut the steerer. A threaded bike with the same headtube length would probably be a donor.
There's the added complication of 27" vs 700c wheels also.
The frame could be bent too, check for a ripple on the top tube and head tube.
Try your luck with a second hand bike shop if you have a local, but otherwise it might be time to move on. It really sucks and i feel for you, but this shit happens. Bikes die. If you ride it enough like bikes deserve it probably won't be 'for ever'. You can make new memories with something better. The important thing is that you weren't fucked up.
>>965068
Thanks. I broke my wrist in the fall but luckily i had a helmet on, it dragged across the ground when i landed.
The bike was my dad's and i hate to give up on it, but it is heavy as shit and this incident is making it tempting to buy something else.
Looking to buy a new helmet as mine is now over 2 years old.
But I'm just wondering if color really matters in regards to visibility and safety. I like my black helmet and want another helmet in black but part of me thinks I should just ignore matching my kit and bike and go with something brighter.
That said, will helmet color really increase visibility if they already can't see or don't notice your tail light or head light? I'm almost tempted just to get a black helmet and throw some leds on there.
>>964763
>Looking forward hearing from you.
>All the best,Maurice Moss.
kek
>>965092
Lights and your other clothing make a bigger difference imho.
>>965092
Not really. You could always just stick some reflective tape at the back of whatever helmet.
13-28 seven speed up from 14-28 six speed is not really an improvement, is it?
Hydraulic rim brakes vs hydraulic disc brakes which would be better? I find it hard to see why someone would pick rim brakes over disc brakes.
![Threaded_Headset_sm[1].gif](https://i.imgur.com/hZZKz8t.gif "Threaded_Headset_sm[1].gif")
Hey again all
I had a cracked front fork a week or two ago on my old racebike. Anyway, the bike doctor found a replacement one somewhere in his archive. However, it was a bit too high. I sawed the threaded top off it so it resembled the old fork, although I didn't have the old fork for reference at the time so it's a bit taller (like a cm or something)
The bike doctor then gave me a spacer to put between it.
Everything ready, I reassembled the fork and everything and now I can't get the perfect adjustment anymore. If I tighten the adjustable race enough so the wheel moves freely left and right then tighten the locknut and steer up, the steer tube rattles when I hold in the front brake and move it forward a bit (as I've been taught to test it)
If I tighten the adjustable race up more so the steer tube doesn't rattle anymore, there's not enough play in the front wheel anymore.
It's like there's no perfect adjustment no matter what I try.
Any clue on what could be wrong?
>>965153
No
I've got that tool kit. It cost the price of a half decent chain whip so screw it, but it IS kind of crappy. Had to buy a crank puller and a freewheel tool, but ebay came to the rescue for a few sheckles. Also you want a big adjustable spanner to go with using cassette and freewheel removers or a crank puller as there isn't shit like that in it.
ANYWAY. My question is I've always taken buckles out and replaced the occasional spoke breakage myself. I locked my bike up in the city the other night and I rode home really drunk so don't know what happened because I woke up with 5 spokes out on the rear wheel.
Usually replacing a spoke is easy because the tension doesn't ever increase on the rest of the spokes, so you just need to bring up the loose ones to match with the ping test after replacing the broken one and then minor adjustments for perfect horizontal trueness. Same with taking out a buckle, tighten or slacken off near spokes and the opposite for opposing ones and you usually get there without too much fuckery.
This time though the wheel was so bad that after lacing it back up with the 5 missing ones and bringing them up to an approximate tension and refitting the tyre I was like, holy shit this wheel isn't even round anymore, I must have to shorten some spokes and then do a fairly intensive truing. Then I couldn't find my spoke key.
So I've got a spoke key on order, but I've been thinking, rather than wait and then find myself doing a terrible job maybe just take it to a shop? Most of the donkey work is done right? They aren't going to financially rape me to just true up a wheel including a fairly big vertical bump? They've got machines with gauges and calipers and stuff, they know their shit.
I can just see myself being without transport for several days while the key is on route, then spending an entire afternoon basically making it worse then taking it to the shop anyway, or ending up with a wheel which is significantly unsafe and varied in tension.
What multitools do you guys carry on your rides?
>>965186
Just an inner tube repair set, an extra inner tube, a bicycle pump, a set of allen keys and tape
>>965186
One that comes with a set of hex keys, phillips and flat screwdrivers, and chain breaker.
>>965186
An original mini vice-grip comes in handy way more often than it has any right to.
>>965190
I can not recall a single instance where i've missed a mini vice grip.
>>965177
Most likely your rim is entirely bent and needs to be replaced anyway.
99% of shops are incredibly bad about truing. They'll charge the same whether the wheel is fucked in half or like-new and 1mm out of true, dick with it for a shop hour and return it to the customer whether they got it true or not.
Bike mechanics that know how to build a good wheel do not usually work at bike shops. More commonly shop "mechanics" are just summer hires - college kids that know less than you do and give exactly zero fucks about your wheel or your bike.
>>965196
No way man I've got a favorite shop I trust where the guys are all 50+ as well as another local shop run by an ex bmx and track legend with a successful national team and another classic frame builder (mercian) on my doorstep.
Only the first guys will be bothered to touch it though, the rest are busy and I'm not a regular because I work next to the first place.
>>965196
This, the romanticism of a mom and pop bike shop caring for your bike and small community is cool and all
But this isn't the case in 2016, Chinese parts sold at markup. Exorbitant shop hour rates and cheapest possible source of labor
You'll learn more from watching park tools how to videos for an hour on the solution to your problem than the bike shop kids will ever know
>>965137
Maybe somebody at another forum told a retrogrouch to come to 4chan/n for advice.
Which isn't very nice of them really.
>>965186
>multitools
Used to use the Alien2.
>>965166
Are your bearings upside down?
>>965196
>college kids that know less than you do and give exactly zero fucks about your wheel or your bike.
yep. I took my wheel to a bike shop and some crust punk retard failed to true it at all, for just $35!
>>965186
M17
I'm a little annoyed with myself that I didn't get the M19 since I need the extra bit for bleeding my brakes, but that's a once-in-a-blue-moon thing and the store had the M17
>>965186
The Park MT-1 is my favorite multitool.
Does the chain ring it needs replacing too?
I bought a Fuji Sportif second hand earlier this year. Thought it was alright but now I'm not so sure. The only shimano components are the shifters, brakes and derailleurs. Cassette, chain, bb, cranks and chain rings are all different brands. The gears are not working well so I decided to buy a new chain and cassette (it had a fucking sunrace cassette on it btw) but just noticed the chainrings also look very worn.
Also is there a standard for chain ring mounting. Looks like I can remove them with an Allen key.
>>965335
>Does the chain ring it needs replacing
It's getting there but maybe not quite yet. If you replace the chain then you might want to though.
Compare it to pic related.
>is there a standard for chain ring mounting
It's called BCD - Bolt Circle Diameter? It's the distance between the bolts (that's what you measure anyway), you'll need to match it. It can be slightly tricky because it's easy to measure the wrong thing, so LBSs often get it wrong. Be cautious.
http://www.sheldonbrown.com/cribsheet-bcd.html
how to deal with rust?
>>965339
Alright thanks. It is a 110m 5 hole. I might just leave it for now. As long as it won't shorten the chain life too much? I want to do about 4000km between now and next year without spending any more money desu. Apart from brake pads and tyres, that is.
>>965340
Citric acid. Soak/scrub.
>>965092
High vis jersey will do more than hi vis helmet.
Hi im a new person looking to get a bike. I wish to ride it on the roads mainly but other places occationally. Is this possible? Also I'm in Australia. I'm just wondering if there is a basic guide to buying a decent bike? ie what to avoid or what to look for? Thanks
>>965358
>other places occationally
Then you might want a hybrid or cross bike.
Or just get a road bike and get another bike later for the occasional stuff.
This might sound like a crazy suggestion but don't rule out bikesdirect with a freight forwarder to Aus. The combination can still be cheaper than buying a bike in .au.
That said, I'm quite partial to the Kona Dew line, especially the Dew Plus.
A good quality hybrid with hydraulic disc brakes. Pretty good for commuting/shopping use and you can use it off-road without any problems too. I road one in Melbourne for years.
>>963639
So, I was thinking about rigging a motor up on my bike because fuck those wallet raping automobiles. Based upon my research so far, it seems like bicycles with an electric assist motor are okay in most places, but I can't find any information on bicycles with a gas assist motor. Anyone know the legality on this?
>>965371
Where the FUGG do you live?
I can tell you it's illegal in Australia. probably illegal in most of yurope too.
>>965358
Don't buy from a department store.
>>960483
Post your GUMTREE there.
Otherwise personal recommendations from me for a bike like that: Malvern Star Oppy, Avanti Giro AR, Cannondale Slate, what the other anon said is probably a good option too.
>>965373
>Where the FUGG do you live?
Pennsylvania.
Hello n
It looks like this shoe is for mountainbike and roadbike clips? right?
>>965402
No it's not for clips.
>>965402
Certainly look like it.
Walking on those with an SPD cleat would be a bit of a disaster, and shimano don't make a cover for those either.
>>965405
>wat are pontoons
>>965406
I actually don't know, please enlighten me.
Getting back into cycling after a while, only barely got into it initially last year but had to take time off.
I've decided to just wander around my local area, relatively rural with lots of bridleways, rather than do what I did last year which was stick to main roads and do repetitive rides.
Got to the bottom of a bridle way and the tarmac surface ended and that tiny gravel stuff began. I've got no idea if this stuff is able to be ridden on and didn't want to risk getting a puncture so I turned around.
Still using the standard tires that came with my Giant Defy 3, haven't upgraded to any of the fancy stuff with ballistically graded sheaths around the inner tube, etc.
Pic unrelated, in hindsight if I knew I was going to ask about it I'd have taken a picture of the road surface (this pic shows the nice road that preceded it)
>>965416
Just realised I didn't even ask a question in that post, still out of breath from getting home.
Question was is it safe to ride on that gravel stuff with a road bike tire (and the stock one at that)? Traction isn't a factor, not bombing down it, but punctures are what I'm worried about.
>>965417
If you're riding far enough from civilization that a flat is going to ruin your day, you should have a tube, a patch kit, and co2 or a pump, and the knowledge of how to use them. Tire levers too if you're a filthy casual. Flats can come out of the blue even on nice surfaces, you need to be prepared. You'd have figured this out on your own, but being told is less painful
Gravel alone shouldn't present any puncture risk, punctures come from either pinch flats (insufficient tire pressure), or sharp stuff (glass, thorns, etc)
The normal thing to do is wait and see. If the flats are a recurring problem, and it wasn't a pinch flat, upgrade to something with better resistance
>>965419
I carry all of the above, doesn't mean I want to go looking for trouble and riding through glass.
>>965420
So what are you asking? You described gravel, not glass. If it worries you enough that you're not going to ride on it, then I don't see how asking a bunch of strangers for permission is going to do you any good.
>>965420
The answer is that you ride on gravel without worry of getting any more flats than on the Tarmac. Enjoy the riding
>>965421
You do realise you don't get any +karma for acting like a clown on 4chan, right? Maybe you should go back to 30bananasaday.
>>965425
You're the clown here buddy. Do you have an actual question or are you just here to complain about being too much of a pussy to ride over a light layer of sand?
Tfw I have ridden through smashed glass dozens of times on my road bike without getting a puncture. Although once when I got back there was a little shard stuck in the tyre.
Glass is nothing compared to thorns, I have had many flats on my mtb.
Every time I see a guy on a TT bike they're mashing at 50 cadence at most. Is there a different technique to riding TT or am I only encountering freds?
>>965432
yes
>>965402
>mountainbike and roadbike clips
Yes, most shoes are compatible with both two and three bolt systems and those are too.
>>965404
>No it's not for clips
Oh you.
>>965407
>pontoons
I've got no idea either. Might be overshoes, which are pretty common, or might be some kind of undershoe, which I can imagine but haven't actually seen.
>>965449
But those does aren't for clips. They're clipLESS shoes.
>>963639
How do we stop the petty thievery of our precious and expensive bicycles /n/?
>>965453
never leave them outside
never leave them out of your sight
use a shitty bike when you need to do the above
I need a beater of some sort.
Got a 90s steel MTB for free that has rusty old parts and I want to start biking this summer
What's a good starting groupset that I should buy to replace everything with?
>>965458
Deore
>>965453
By never leaving your naisu baiku outside and having a shitmobile for such instances instead
>>965452
>They're clipLESS shoes
All shoes are clipless.
>>965453
>How do we stop the petty thievery
By making the thefts non-petty. Just have an expensive enough bike and it will be grand larceny instead.
Seriously, good locks will slow them down, it's about all you can do if you're not leaving the bike somewhere that is actively guarded. Where I live, there are old folk who run bike parks and watch your shit for a few cents. That's what I'm planning on doing with my sweet ride when it arrives in a few weeks.
>>965460
>Deore
Tourney is on a similar level too, isn't it?
>>965462
Tourney is lower tier, and has plastic parts
>>965461
I would be genuinely embarrassed to be seen riding on those bikes, if I was, I'd advertise that I had stolen it just so that nobody thought it was my bike.
>>965465
Oh Anon don't be so vain
>>965468
>Oh Anon don't be so vain
I was going to say that the back one looked ok but it's deep V aero rims on a fucking downtube friction shifter. Tre hipster.
>>965460
Thanks
>>965470
Derp V's aren't aero.
They are the least aero rims on the market, in addition to weighing almost four pounds per wheel.
>>965462
>All shoes are clipless.
What the fuck am I reading? Pic related is a clip and strap system.
I want to pick up a set of clipless pedals for my CX bike.
I've used Crank Brothers Candy 1s. So I'm kind of torn between the Candy 7s, Egg Beater 3s, or just swapping over to the Shimano XTR pedals.
Crank bros would be nice because I have them on another bike and wouldn't have to worry about swapping cleats or keeping one pair of shoes for one bike and another pair for another bike.
Are Shimano XTRs worth it over Crank Brothers stuff?
>>965474
Toroidal rims weight more than V, and V's are more aero than box section, and deep V's are more aero than shallow V's.
Of course even a shallowish toroidal has deep V's beat.
>>965477
Anon who said the shoes are for clipless here. My mistake, clearly with the proper hardware they are meant for clips such as illustrated in your picture.
>>965481
Also considering Time ATACs as well
>>965481
Do you actually like crankbros?
Also, the high end XPEDOS are pretty good if you get the ones with 3 cartridge bearings and lighter than Shimano
>>965491
I like the Candy 1 pair that I have and was thinking about upgrading to the Candy 7 for another bike.
I bought a pair of Egg Beater 3s to try but had to return them because they weren't engaging when clipping in.
So now I'm pretty much wondering between sticking with the Candy line or switching to Shimano or Time. I hear that the Shimano's don't clear mud, dirt, and snow as well as the CBs or Times though. I hear a lot of good reviews on the Time ATAC XCs.
Which one /n/ ??
>>965498
Neither
>>965486
afaik nobody makes toroidal rims out of alloy.
Deep V's are actually less aero than box section and shallow V's. It would be otherwise if they were shaped to create laminar flow, but they aren't. They are effectively a flat cross-section, not a foil.
It's like holding a big sheet of cardboard up into the wind - it just creates shitloads of drag. A smaller piece of cardboard will create less drag.
>>965502
Thats not a correct or wanted answer
>>965504
That was my answer. Sorry that it wasn't what you wanted to hear, cupcake.
>>965506
>cupcake
Texas 100%
>>965498
The one with carbon fiber.
Also you reminded me I need to buy a new motorcycle.
>>965498
Left, sell it and get 3-4 awesome bikes.
>>965498
Street Triple R for 5k
Honda Grom for 2k
DRZ 400 for 4k
>>965462
>All shoes are clipless.
"Clipless shoes" refers to shoes designed for use with clipless pedals, faggot.
>>965535
So stupid
The bike community should change the nomenclature to make more sense
Clipless -> now called clip-ins
Toe clips -> now called toe cages and straps
Platform pedals-> basic bitch pedals
>>965567
But the cage and strap is not the clip. The clip is the block that the strap locks to the pedal. With a non-hipster-sneaker-in-cage proper clip setup you have to lean down and undo the strap to get the foot free.
What's the cheapest way to get into heart rate monitoring and cadence?
Don't really want to splash out on a cycling computer and all the mounting shit, etc., if I don't have to, I carry my phone in my jersey zip pocket so bluetooth is preferable.
And a different topic entirely, I've noticed I pedal quite toe-down, whereas most people I've seen on youtube and what not are either parallel or heel down. Is this something that will come with muscle development (I'm pretty unfit at the moment), something I have to actively focus on until it's habit, or is it just something I can't really change?
>>965599
Toe down = master race
>>965604
This.
It just means you're better than other people.
>>965477
>What the fuck am I reading
Do you have a shoe with a clip on it?
>>965599
>Don't really want to splash out on a cycling computer
They're pretty cheap.
>>965607
Which ones? You can get dirt cheap ones but they don't have ant+ to connect to HR/cadence monitors, as far as I'm aware.
I just bought my first non-used bike and I want to take care of it. This will be my 3-season bike and my old one will be my winter beater.
What maintenance should I do and how often? E.g. chain and brakes once a month, cabling derailleur once every 3 months. etc. etc.
The bike is a Soma Doublecross
>Cromo steel frame
>SRAM Rival Shift/Brake levers and rear derailleur
>SRAM front derailleur.
>>965612
Clean your drivetrain frequently, like once a week/fortnight or after any particularly wet/muddy rides
Your cables are gonna need tightened very soon because new cables stretch like a motherfucker
Lubricate your chain
Keep an eye on the wear indicators on your brake pads
Don't mess with the bolts on your derailleurs
>>965618
> new cables stretch like a motherfucker
I wish this meme would die
What appears to be cable stretching is actually cable housing deformation which varies depending on how crappy your cable housing is
Is my saddle supposed to be higher than my bars? I try to raise it higher, but then I end up with my legs completely straight as I pedal, yet I see everyones road bike on this board has bars significantly lower than their saddle. Is it because my bike frame might be too big? It had a sloping top tube, but when I stand over it, it's literally smushing my junk. Would I benefit from flipping my stem from positive to negative, and removing the spacers? It looks like i've got 3 15mm spacers under my bars at the moment.
>>965620
Not necessarily true. The thing is most inners come pre-stretched.
>>965737
You should be lowering your bars, not raising your saddle. Many stems can be flipped. If you remove spacers, you'll have to either put them back on above your stem, or cut your steerer tube. I recommend starting out by doing the former, because it's reversible. If you ride like that for a while and know you like the lower height, then you can cut your steerer so you don't need those extra spacers above the stem.
Do whatever works for you. Having low bars makes you fast and aero but it will also give you a sore back, especially at first. An aggressive position like that is for racers, not people who want to go on leisurely rides. Make sure you didn't raise your saddle too much; even when at the bottom of the pedal rotation, your knees should still have a little bit of bend in them.
>>965737
>Is my saddle supposed to be higher than my bars?
Depends on whether you want speed and efficiency and spend a lot of time riding into winds.
Lots of casual riders like a more up-right posture, it's more comfortable.
The saddle position is ONLY decided by your leg length. Position it so that your leg is almost but not quite straight at the lowest pedal position. This probably means that only the tips of your toes can touch the ground, or maybe not at all.
Once the saddle position is fixed, then decide how you want the bars. If you're commuting and need to be fast, efficient then you probably want lower.
The saddle can be both high or lower than the bars. Neither is actually wrong. It would look weird to have drop bars higher than the saddle but it's not actually wrong. It would also look weird for flat bars to be lower than the saddle but it's still not actually wrong (though maybe it would be hard on the shoulders).
>>965612
Basically what the other guy said.
Also:
>measure chain for stretch periodically (LBS will do it for free if you don't have a chain measuring tool; a chain will last 1,000-3,000 miles depending on various factors)
Check tire pressure BEFORE EVERY SINGLE RIDE, air up if necessary
>>965741
>>965744
Alright, this makes sense.
Little seatpost showing translates to a bigger bike frame though, right? That is to say, if I was riding the same bike with a smaller sized frame, my saddle would be positioned for the same leg length as the bigger frame, but due to the decreased size of the frame itself, I would have more of the seatpost exposed, right?
>>965750
>Little seatpost showing translates to a bigger bike frame though, right
It's pretty hard to understand what you mean but I think that's right.
When getting a bike for your height, you pick the frame first, then kind of fine tune things with the seat post.
Seat Tube + Seat Post + Crank size = leg length...more or less
