/bqg/ - Bike Questions General
Resources:
http://sheldonbrown.com/
http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help
If you want help picking out a bicycle, post in >>>/n/bbg , not here.
>>961254
Why are men such bad bicycle mechanics?
>>961254
Are extralite chainrings stiff? I'd get fiberlyte but not worth $270 to me
>>961263
Is this your first attempt at bait?
>>961287
I'm a faggot. I go on a long bike ride. I get tired and emotional afterwards. This is for hours. I hydrate and eat well.
>tired and emotional
>crying at the drop of a hat
>arguing with spouse
>being a faggot
Is this normal?
>>961327
yes
hey,
I need to replace the bearings of my lower headtube cup, I don't really know what kind of bearings to get though.
it's a gusset ec44
all the info I can get is
R-Series Mix'N'Match, Lower cup set, External fit (EC44/40,30) Cart Brng, Inc. 11/8" & 1.5" CR
and
WOOdman custom cartridge bearings (with almost double the bearing fill and durability of std. cartridge bearings)
how about these
http://www.ebay.de/itm/FSA-ORBIT-MX-11-5-Zoll-Steuertzlager-Lager-CUBE-Cane-Creek-Syntace-Fur-Tapered-/172164008595?hash=item2815c64a93:g:Q6IAAOSwjMJXDNF5
they have a bearing angle (???) of 36°x45
I really don't know what the relevant info is excpet that I need a 1 1/2 bearing
>>961333
trips for truth
>implying you read past the "faggot" element.
I feel like so many generals on every board is kond of a bad idea, but regardless heres my question.
So i took off the tire and inner tube but theirs still this thin rubber strip, what is it / whats it called?
>>961348
Rim tape, it keeps the spoke nipples or the edges of the holes they're sunk in from rubbing holes in the inner tube.
>>961348
yea dude start a new thread and we can get a proper discussion going
>>961327
Most people feel really good during and after a prolonged period of exercise. So no, it's not normal at all. It suggests some serious brain chemistry issues which /n/ is not qualified to diagnose or treat.
Consult a neurologist.
>>961348
/n/ is a slow board with people asking very similar if not the same questions. I'm not really all for generals either but I'd rather flick through one dedicated thread about mechanical questions than dig through threads and threads of people with Walmart BSO asking to get appraisals.
>>961360
Or hes just in a bad relationship and trying to blame his mood swings on exercising
>>961327
Cut the carbs out of your diet
Eat more meat and green veggies
Im getting a new fork today and I was wondering what the best practice was as far as determining steer tube length so that I don't have unnecessary spacers above my stem. Is there like a "install the stem, Mark where the top is, then cut above/below that line" kind of trick to it or what? I really don't want to fuck this up
>>961370
This.
>>961371
You'll want it so there's about 5mm of space between the top of the steerer and the top of the stem.
I'm going to assume you have a selection of spacers on hand and will have at least a 5mm one under the stem, so you can set the stem up at the height you want (make sure all the headset components are seated correctly, put spacers above the stem and tighten the top cap if possible to make sure), then remove the 5mm spacer and put the stem back on and mark a line level with the top of the stem.
I'd advise you that if you're not 100% certain on the stem height to cut the steerer long and stack some spacers above the stem so you can adjust it if needed.
I could ride my bike with it missing two spokes right? On the trails.
>>961366
Honestly i wouldnt have even asked the question if not for this being at the top of /n/, i was looking more for resources.
Also i was going to make a new thread to say this but i changed my first bike tyres ever and am so happy about it. Interestingly the new inner tubes have gel that fills any punctures, supposedly
>>961379
Absolutely not.
>>961385
Why not? What's the worst that could happen
I just don't understand why recumbents are often as expensive as a relatively new 2nd hand car.
>>961386
You'll break stuff.
>>961379
It depends. Most likely it'd be alright, the factors affecting that would be spoke count (less spokes means missing ones matter more), rim material (carbon would probably explode), rider weight and how hard they're riding, brake type (disc brakes don't care if the rim is out of true, rim brakes will be screwed), which spokes are actually missing (two next to each other is worse than two far apart) and probably some other things.
Basically, unless you're running high end carbon rims with a low spoke count it's fine to ride, although I'd suggest replacing the spokes as soon as you can.
>>961390
Important stuff or just stuff?
My rear derailleur is fucked. It doesn't pull the chain at all, which makes it hang really loose.
Could shortening the chain do the trick? Or get rid of the rear derailleur, shorten the chain and basically make it a half fixie—given that I still have a front derailleur?
Would these brake levers be compatible with v-brakes? I'm currently running cantis but nothing makes me angrier than trying to get cantis to stop my fucking bicycle so I really want to change them.
>>961397
Get a new $5 DR you bum.
>>961399
I don't know where to find one that doesn't cost a fortune. The closest place to get one here is a hipster cafe/bike repair shop. And those arrogant pricks charge too much.
>>961398
make sure that your levers are long pull. I measure the center-to-center distance between where the lever pivots and where the cable anchor pivots using my fingers. If the distance is close to one finger width (~20 mm) the lever is short pull. If the distance is two finger widths (~40 mm) the lever is long pull. There is some wiggle room, but I wouldn't recommend using short pull levers with v-brakes. Your braking will suck.
>>961402
Nashbar, eBay, Amazon...
>>961404
>Your braking will suck.
The risk is the handle bottoming out on the bar. The brake force is actually greater with this mismatch. V levers with canti brakes, on the other hand...
That might be why >>961398 can't stop for shit. Or he simply sucks at setting up cantilevers, but I'd bet /n/ could teach it if he gives us the chance.
>>961370
Cut meat and fat out of your diet
Eat more unprocessed carbs and green veggies
My gear changes are fucked, i cant change above 2, 4 without hearing a clunky noise and the chain never catching on, and in order to change from 1,x to 2,x i have to go to 3,x then drop down. Is it the derailleur or something else like the gears thing on the wheel?
>>961415
Your cables/housings are spent and your derailleur hanger (the mount) is bent. Take it to a mechanic.
>>961427
Impossible to self fix? So be it but thats ok i guess. Its days before a huge ride as well.
>>961430
>Impossible to self fix?
No, but taking it to a mechanic is easier and if you couldn't diagnose it yourself it probably has a much higher chance of success. If you're learning to self fix you should start smaller, with stuff that is in somewhat working order. When the bike it completely run to shit there are too many variables to sort out for it to be an enjoyable learning experience.
>>961415
http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/rear-derailleur-adjustment
http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/front-derailleur-adjustment
Have fun
>>961327
I'm afraid that you've got a terminal condition called 'being a faggot'. You should head to the nearest suicide booth.
>>961445
If he isn't pants on head retarded, there are literally thousands of walkthroughs around for how to repair/replace all that. The only part that is going to be a pain is ordering any of the more specialized tools for the job.
>>961327
No, you should feel better after a ride.
>>961343
If you don't mind it being a little trickier and messier, you would be best off going with loose ball bearings. They perform better. (source: http://sheldonbrown.com/harris/bearings.html)
If going that route, you probably need 5/32", but possibly 3/16". Grade 25 is ideal.
Given that it's a headset race, you'll want to also leave a little gap -- after filling it with as many bearings will fit, remove one or two. (I don't recall the ideal number to remove/size of the gap, I think it's in the 1-3 bearing range)
>>961348
First anon pretty much got it. In your case it's a rim strip, not rim tape, but they serve the same purpose. Make sure it fully covers all the spoke holes.
>>961370
>meat
lolno. Meat is unhealthy as fuck.
>Sauce: Vegan for over a decade, strong cyclist, and soon-to-be professional skier. I wouldn't be wear I am if veganism was unhealthy.
>>961379
Can you? Yes. Should you? No. It's (usually) fine to ride like that for a short while, but get it fixed as soon as you can. Riding like that for long will put your wheel out of true.
>>961388
Because they aren't as mass-produced as real bicycles.
>>961397
Shortening the chain will probably not help. The issue looks like the derailleur, not the chain. Can you see a model name of the derailleur anywhere on the bike?
>>961415
I assume you are referring to rear shifting, not front shifting. Possible causes:
>Derailleur is not adjusted properly (see Park Tool link posted by other anon)
>Derailleur hanger is bent
>Components are worn (sharked teeth, stretched chain, or less likely, damaged derailleur)
>Cables/housing in need of replacement
>>961430
Regardless of the issue, you can do it yourself, the trick here is, as the other anon said, diagnosing it. If you know exactly what's wrong then it's pretty straightforward. You could try to diagnose and solve it yourself, it would be good experience. First check for a bent hanger, see pic related. The derailleur pulleys should be verticle, just like the cassette cogs. If they are at an angle, your hanger needs to be replaced.
If your hanger is good, then use the Park Tool link to check your derailleur adjustment.
You can also check your cables and housing (this won't be a perfect test) by disconnecting the cable from the derailleur, holding it at the end, and then pulling the shift levers. See if it feels like it's sliding smoothly within the housing. Make sure not to fray the end of the cable when messing with it.
If you have issues with your front shifting, some of the potential issues are the same. But in this case you will not have a hanger to check, and you WILL have to check the derailleur's height and rotational alignment.
>>961343
I would just bring the lower cartridge bearing to either your LBS or a shop that specializes in bearings. Otherwise, just purchase the stock bearing for your headset from the distributor. More often than not, a kindly worded email can get you exactly what you need.
Do not just go an buy something all willy nilly. Cartridges are pretty precise in their fitting, and just slapping one into your headset will probably cause more problems than it would fix.
Pink Bike has a nice article on cartridge headset bearings, which includes a way to break down their code to figure out which replacement you should purchase.
http://www.pinkbike.com/news/To-the-Point-Cartridge-Bearings-2013.html
Finally, don't listen to >>961481 because he obviously didn't read your post. You can't pack a cartridge headset with loose ball bearings.
>>961494
correction: you cannot pack a cartridge bearing headset with loose ball bearings. Won't work in any sense of word.
also, train CAPTCHA!
>>961501
It could technically work, but cartridge bearing cups are not designed for loose ball bearings. Using them would result in increased wear and likely play in the headset, only an idiot would do it instead of just buying a complete loose ball headset.
>>961481
>"wear" I am
Yeah looking real good there, Einstein. Lmao
>>961494
Yeah you're right, I was mixed up with cartridge vs retainer bearings. Sorry.
How long do Aluminum frames last?
>>961546
Long enough.
more bike manga (noririn) questions! specifically advantages of 700c over 650c, why they're actually advantages, and just some clarifications would be greatly appreciated.
In case my japanese is also lacking, I'm including short snippets when relevant, although keep in mind the statements themselves are not authoritative.
-Because of the flywheel's efficiency, speed drops less per revolution.
フライホイル効果で一回乗ったスピードが落ちにくい。
-Because of gyroscopic forces due to larger outer rim mass, they (700C) are more stable.
外周部の重さによるジャイロ効果で車体が安定する。
^My physics is really not too clear, but is this because of greater radius or greater mass
-Imaginably, you'd expect smaller wheels to have less rolling friction, but on asphalt, the rolling friction is less for larger wheels
理想的平面(鏡面のような)では、小さい方が転がり抵抗は小さいが、実際のアスファルト路面では大きい方がころがり抵抗小さい。
^I feel as though this might not actually be true, since for same material/width they'd experience fairly similar rolling friction unless curvature factors in significantly
-given the frame can be made smaller, the entire bike can be lighter/you can aim for overall lightness
フレームをちいさくできるので、全体として軽量化が狙える。
^I'm assuming this is a pro for 700C but aren't the frames for 700C larger/heavier than 650C? If anything this is most likely my poor translation, but if anyone could shed some light.
-Because fewer revolutions are needed spork and hub stress is minimized.
ホイールの回転数が少なるので、ハブやスポークにかかるストレスが少ない。
^seems legit but idk
-Better on slopes
段差に強い。
^I don't understand this someone please explain how this (potentially) is true.
>>961546
Aluminum-26 (26Al) fills the bill. It has a half-life of 730,000 years. This means, of course, that this original 26Al is gone now. A radioactive isotope decays to immeasurable amounts in about ten half-lives, or 7.3 million years for 26Al
I grew up riding Walmart bikes (Huffy etc) and knowing nothing else. This board is fascinating and I'm gonna get myself a good bike soon. Thanks 4chan.
>>961554
One advantage I can think of is the higher gearing. If you have a 53t chainring on a 700c bike a 650c one would need 57t to match it.
anyone?
>>961261
Is the Walkydog attachment any good? I'm considering buying it so my dog can run while I bike.
My front derailleur won't actually shift gears. It moves and stuff but can't get back to the high gear. What do? I played with the limit screws a bit but it didn't help.
>>961564
Please don't, it's dangerous and annoying for others
>>961570
I don't ride in the street btw, just on bike paths and trails.
I didn't know it was dangerous. Is there a safer device?
>>961573
It's dangerous to have a dog attached to you or your bike while riding. Many things can startle or interest your dog to the point it'll try to run in a different direction, making you fall or just putting a fucking cord across the path
>>961569
http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/front-derailleur-adjustment
I've got a retard problem, /n/
I went 2 weeks without riding and my crank is suddenly very gummy and makes a very faint grinding sound when I turn it without the chain
My last 4 rides were in several consecutive days of rain and my chain even had a little rust. I keep my bike indoors but otherwise I'm not very nice to it.
It's a shimano 5700 series cartridge BB, the internet says these should be good like forever. I doubt if I even have 6000 miles on it at this point, but those are all season miles (rain and snow).
Could this be it? Do I really need a new one? It wasn't acting up until this 2 week hiatus.
>>961546
Like any other frame material, it depends on what kind of abuse it takes.
>>961577
The rain riding definitely took a toll on your bb. Moisture must have got in and rusted it as it sat for 2 weeks.
You may just need to replace and regrease the bearings, but it is entirely possible that you'll have to replace the entire bottom bracket.
>>961577
>shimano 5700 series cartridge BB
>>961580
>regrease the bearings
Nothing to regrease here. This thing is not serviceable. It's meant to be replaced in ints entirety.
Is this from the 60s or even older, and what is its make? It's on some Fongers (dutch brand, acquired by Batavus in 1970) with cottered cranks. Unfortunately I don't have a pic of the whole bike.
>>961605
So you think it's possible that my BB is fucked after only 6000 miles? I thought they were weatherproof
>>961618
>only 6000 miles
>only
>>961629
The numbers I'm seeing on bike forums are in the tens of thousands
I'm looking at ordering a new one and it's way cheaper than I expected, but it just seems weird...
>>961633
As with everything else in life, things can fail. The fact that it doesn't usually happen doesn't mean it absolutely can't.
>>961561
If you just want photos and descriptions and don't need a catalog format, try going to manufacturer websites on web.archive.org
>>961577
Good chance you'll have to replace the BB. While it's technically possible to disassemble, clean, grease, and re-assemble that style of BB, it's not recommended.
Sometimes, removing the BB, cleaning the outside of the BB (especially the threads) as well as the BB shell (the part of the frame that the BB fits into), greasing the threads and re-installing it to the proper torque will help (I've seen this work multiple times on multiple bikes). But if water has gotten inside the BB then replace the BB.
>>961633
Try cleaning and re-greasing. If that doesn't work, replace it.
I need two things; new calipers and a better air pump
I was thinking an old set of suntours on ebay atm for $60, seem in good condition, gotta be better than these shit dia compes i have to adjust every week or so. plus ill admit i want the hipster cred
whats the best floor pump around $40? im in an apt so no go on a compressor. I like my tires about 100-110 psi depending and its a bitch even getting them to 80 psi with this shitty bell i got at goodwill
>>961689
Topeak Joe blow is pretty highly rated.
>>961605
lmao
>>961561
Guy from the other thread -
Sorry, I never thought to save any of the stuff I got when I last formatted my PC. I had a bunch of stuff for 03 Canondale models, and some random years for Montague stuff, doubt it would have been very useful.
>>961689
Unless you work in a shop compressors aren't really worth it anyway. I've got a couple Topeak pumps, and even my road morph blows all the bell shit I've tried completely out of the water.
>>961615
Anyone? Where are you, the omniscient 10speed road bike experts of /n/?
I bought this yesterday.
I've never had disc brakes before, nor hydraulic brakes for that matter. I have no idea what i'm doing. What do i need to know about proper adjustment, maintenance and maintenance requirement indicator.
The breaks squeal like a big under heavier braking.
How do i keep the drivetrain clean an looking good. Am i supposed to take the bike with me into the shower after every ride, or what?
What lube should i use, how much and how and where do i apply it?
The stem needs tightening. Do i just tighten the two screws at the sides or do i have to do something with the topcap screw?
>>961615
its a shimano eagle from the 70s, google is broken for you?
>>961790
Dude why'd you buy a fat bike? They're useless meme incarnate, and i don't see any snow near you. Try google for how to adjust a stem and dick breaks. For keeping the drivetrain clean i suggest being a massive pleb and just tooling around footpaths and good condition grass in nice weather on your 15-20kg poor excuse for a bike, which is the equivelant of a hummer.
>>961790
>How do i keep the drivetrain clean an looking good.
Lube and wrags.
>>961791
>Dude why'd you buy a fat bike?
Because the winters up here always make me wish i had one. And i got a really good deal on it, i think. I'll just ride this one until i can afford the nice full susser i've been daydreaming about.
>i don't see any snow near you.
Well, it's summer in the northern hemisphere now, isn't it? And i know i'm going to end up in mud, sooner or later.
>i suggest being a massive pleb and just tooling around footpaths and good condition grass
Nah, my hybrid does that job plenty good enough already, thank you very much.
>>961795
lol disregard me dude im just in a pissy mood.
>>961639
>>961704
>technically possible to disassemble, clean, grease, and re-assemble that style of BB
Care to explain how do you disassemble and and re-assemble a sealed bearing?
http://cycle.shimano-eu.com/media/techdocs/content/cycle/SI/105/SI_1M30A/SI-1M30A-003-ENG_v1_m56577569830702207.pdf
>>961637
>archive.org
There's something, but not everything, especially when it comes to big brands' sites with flash and whatnot.
Seven internets to you if you can dig, say, geometries of the previous generation Langster frame out of archive.org.
>>961711
Thanks again. Yeah perhaps I really should get over my laziness and write some nice emails to manufacturers. Still, I refuse to believe that there is no place on the web where retrofags post tons of vintage catalogues and no one reading this thread doesn't know where that place is, or has tons of pdfs himself.
>Montague
You learn something new every day.
Are there any other
>REAL BIKES THAT FOLD
out there except these and that 26" one which Dahon made (and discontinued)?
>>961797
>>961791
Thanks. Didn't know it's a Shimano. Thought googling "eagle rear derailleur" wouldn't bring much relevant results.
Do you, by any chance, also happen to know when the industry in the 1st world switched from cotter cranks to square taper?
And when exactly did production of Fongers brand bikes cease? From what I've read, Batavus bought the brand in 1970 (and supposedly closed the original factory), yet they kept using the brand for some more years (just like Trek with Garry Fisher). How many years exactly, seems to be a mystery.
>>961790
Brake noises could be caused by a few things. Check that everything is tight (rotor bolts and all the ones that hold the calipers to the frame and fork), make sure the calipers are straight inline with the discs, and the final cause could be contaminated discs and pads (Google will tell you how to fix this). Also you'll want to make sure you bed the pads in correctly after cleaning them.
>>961800
Ah yes, and when did the industry switch from 5 sprockets to 6 or 7?
>>961801
>bed the pads in
What does this mean?
>>961803
It coats the discs with layer of braking material so it's not just bare steel, that way the pads grip better. If they're not bedded in correctly you can end up with glazed rotors and pads and it'll brake like shit and likely be noisy.
>>961804
Ah, thanks.
>>961802
3-4 pre WW11
5 50s - 70s
6 80s
7 80s, 90s
googling "eagle rear derailleur" does bring many relevant results
Square taper goes back to stronglight in the 30s. I think they became standard on decent bikes in the late 50s- early 60s when campagnolo cranks came in.
Yours is a low end bike from the 70s. Hiten steel and nothing special but perfectly fine for a bit of utility. Not really worth sperging out over though.
>>961573
>mfw been biking with pupper everyday for years now.
>mfw never had a crash.
I use a waist leash. You can buy them where you find hiking stuff. By attaching the dog to your waist you are anchoring them quite close to the point of center of gravity of you plus the bike. In doing this you'll find that you have plenty of control even if the dog does lunge at something.
>>961798
I think tern makes a copy of that 26in dahon mtb folder.
How do I pick the right size spokes for my rims?
They are ERD: 388.6 mm rims.
My only options for spokes on the site are 184mm, 186mm, or 188mm
>>961808
>Hiten steel
Can you tell for sure just by seeing these pics of dropouts? Also, the frame is lugged. The lugs are not very detailed, but not super crude either. I guess this indicates that it might be some finer steel, might as well be hi-ten.
There was some period when race bikes had square taper cranks but mid-tier touring bikes still had cotters, right?
I just want to convince myself that this is a mid end, not low end bike.
>WW11
>11
kek
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gErz-TJY2nA
>>961398
Nope. Just an S. So I assume its shimano. Will a new 6/7 derailleur do?
>>961819
http://sapim.be/spoke-calculator
>>961823
Thank you.
I'm building my first bike so this is all new to me.
>>961398
http://m.ebay.com/itm/REAR-DERAILLEUR-SIMPLEX-/282033313299?nav=SEARCH
Will this fit?
>>961820
All that matters is whether you like how it rides or not. You can easily find a hiten shitter that is reliable and smooth. Alternately there are many 531 race frames that flop around like a limp dick or you could find a 3rensho that wants to kill you when you ride down a hill.
Basically though, in the 70s, bolt on RD hanger, cottered cranks and a derailer with a heavy stamped steel bash guard means a low end bike. I'm pretty sure those are stamped dropouts too. Do the lugs have a seam? If so they're stamped steel as well (as opposed to higher quality forged) and will definitely be joining gas pipe tube together. Pretty much all road bikes from that era are lugged, and now, modern butted alloys can be tig welded and lugs or no lugs means nothing.
Is it heavy as fuck? That's an easy tell.
So my bicycle has 21 gears and I usually ride everything in 3:7
But now I cant because when I go up any sort of hill I get a shit load of resistance and a creaking sound that is either coming from around my gearbox or from around my pedala
I dont care about the sound but the resistance almost stops me in my tracks
This started about a week ago and I've never had this problem
I can usually go from being stopped to moving in 3:7 without much trouble getting to speed now it almost can't start moving and it acts the same as ging up hill
Help me my bike is the only thing I own :(
>>961835
What's the bike/ lets see a photo of the logo on the rd? Simplex mechs have a french thread and will only fit on french bikes with simplex mechs and simplex mechs are trash anyway.
Unless it's a french bike with silly french threading, any rear derailer should work. If you don't mind the ugly look, a new 6/7 speed shimano tourney or a 9 speed sora will work better than anything vintage and cost >$20.
I'd try a second hand bike shop/ co-op though, and try find vintage whatever in silver that's cheap. Suntour mechs are nice imo.
You also want a inner & outer cable as that one is shot.
>>961839
Are you posting from the library? Try using your other gears
>>961848
It is friction related, the slower or more severe the hill the more trouble I have regardless of gear. Lower gear is easier up hills but the noise and resistance is still there just fainter. Im not sure if something is rubbing or needs to be lubed.
>>961853
My guess is either the tire is rubbing or the brakes are rubbing, due to the wheel not being seated correctly or out of true. Drivetrain stuff can add resistance, but not a drastic amount.
If you pick the rear up off the ground, does the wheel spin backwards freely?
If you shift to the inner chainring on the front, and then lift the chain off the chainring, do the cranks spin freely?
Can you backpedal freely?
Are the brakes or the tires rubbing?
Do you have a camera?
Are you neet or homeless?
If you pick the rear up off the ground, does the wheel spin backwards freely?
>Yes
If you shift to the inner chainring on the front, and then lift the chain off the chainring, do the cranks spin freely?
>Whats a crank and whats a chainring and am I upshifting or downshifting
Can you backpedal freely?
>Yes
Are the brakes or the tires rubbing?
>No
Do you have a camera?
>What do you want me to take a picture of?
Are you neet or homeless?
>Yes
What do I have to adjust on my mtb so my back doesn't ache? Move the seat forward maybe?
I just moved to a big city and need a bicycle for leisure activities. I am 167 cm tall and my waist is at 98 cm from the floor. What bike size (frame, wheels, ...) should I look for?
My current bike is aprox. 12 years old, cost 120 € in the store, first hand so you imagine the quality. The repairings it needs (broken derrailer, both sifters, never replaced the chain...) and the transportation costs to my new city cannot be justified so I thought on getting a new (most surely used) one. My budget is in the 300-600 € range). I honestly don't know if that price range is too much since I've been using old and cheap bikes all my short life.
I am not afraid of doing repairings so I can health check an used bicycle (also have all the tools I'd need).
>>961912
http://www.ebicycles.com/bicycle-tools/frame-sizer
28"/622/700c are considered full size wheel for road bikes. For mountain bikes the standards are 26"/27.5"/29"
I'd say that's a good price range.
>>961918
Thank you for the answer and the link.
I forgot to add I'm looking for a road bike. Your answer said 28 inches is the full sized wheel and the calculator in the link does not consider wheel size. Should I get 28 inches regardless of my height (167 cm)?
>>961883
Get out of the saddle.
>>961254
Is it bad to ride with a stiff chain link? I'm hearing noises from my rear freewheel hub with each pedal revolution, and I'm assuming it's a stiff chain link.
>>961254
Got a Walmart Fixie as a gift from a friend
he bought it for me because I was talking about getting a new bike but not having any money for it now my question is what can I do to it to make it a safer ride?
>>961936
If it's each rotation then it's not going to be your chain. It's something that rotates once with each crank rotation, so either the BB, crank, or pedal. It could possibly be something to do with the wheel if you were in a 1:1 or close gear ratio.
>>961950
It's a fixed gear with breaks, I just took it in to the LBS to get the rear hub adjusted, so I'm at a loss for what it could be
what's the deal with mini velos?
I looked online and as a concept it doesn't look unreasonable, a regular frame downsized into a folder dimensions.
I mostly ride a small folder and I think if I had a chance I'd give it a shot.
Why are those bikes universally loathed on /n/?
>>961959
How tight is your chain? It could be that your chainring is off centre or out of round and causing the chain to go tight at a certain point.
>>961927
Yes.
Fucking hell, flying down a bumpy hill without foot retention feels gnarly.
How do people seriously recommend platforms for off-road riding?
>>961966
They're not loathed at all. They're just not taken seriously.
I actually like them a lot for short urban trips, if you have good roads.
>>961936
Don't guess. Put it up and figure it out.
>>961959
>>961936
>Fixed gear
>Rear freewheel hub
>Just serviced
What did you have done? Do you even know what you're riding?
How dumb is it to buy a derailleur and change the pulleys for ones with different teeth?
>>962008
Dumb enough that I have no idea what you're trying to do or why. Derailers can be had cheaply in the first place.
>>962004
Suspension helps. That said I've ridden some fairly rough stuff on my flat bar road bike with skinny tyres and had no trouble keeping my feet on the pedals. I suppose over time you learn how to absorb the bumps, I've always ridden with flats and have my foot further forward on the pedal than most people.
>>962009
My budget is extremely low.
I rode through some deep clay earlier and it got on my fork's stanchions. I locked out the fork immediately after to keep the clay out just in case.
Did I do the right thing? Could riding with this shit on my stanchions mess up my fork? Is the best way to get it off just to wipe it off with a wet rag?
>>962008
If you mean replace the pulleys when the teeth get worn out, that's a good thing to do.
If you mean something else, then what the actual fuck are you talking about, nigger?
>>961912
300-600 is fine for a used bike, but if you're okay with something old (think 1980s) you can get something substantially cheaper. At least in the US. If you want something more modern then you'll have to go into the 300-600 price range you mentioned.
>>961839
Only happens in that gear ratio? You probably wore out your rear cog (or, less likely, front chainring; or maybe both). May also have a stretched chain. Though I'm not sure what you mean by 'gearbox'
>>961798
>Care to explain how do you disassemble and and re-assemble a sealed bearing?
You can pry off the seals. Under those you'll find normal bearing balls. You could take those out, clean and re-grease, and replace the bearing balls, then put the seal back on. But then it's probably not going to have as good of a seal as when it was new. It's generally not recommended to do this, but it is possible.
>>962031
>Did I do the right thing? Could riding with this shit on my stanchions mess up my fork? Is the best way to get it off just to wipe it off with a wet rag?
Probably did the right thing, and a wet rag is probably the best option. But I don't know much about suspension systems, that's just what I would assume.
>>962031
The wiper seal should be tight enough to keep anything out, no need to lock the fork. If it's super gritty and you leave it for ages it could cause premature wear. Just hose it off.
>>961254
I just bought a Trek 7.2
The size is 22.5--I am not sure if I should have gotten the size 25.
I am 6'4
Can anyone who has experienced something similar give me their opinion?
>>962036
It happens in all gears just much more obvious in higher gears. I think the harder I push on my pedals the louder it is.
>>962067
The upper recommended limit from Trek is 6'5", you're fine.
>>962067
I would have definitely gone for 25 at your height, but I also tend to like slightly oversized frames. Take from that what you will.
>>961861
what model peugeot? What make are the shifters and brakes? It's probably not shimano.
>Currently have 3x7 grip 'n shift shifters
>adjusted front derailer so they change gears smoothly but they are still a little annoying
What should I replace them with? Shifters with brake levers? Buy used? Wat do!?
>>962121
Get SRAM X5 (assuming they come in 3x7)
>Shifters with brake levers?
No. If you mean road-style levers, they won't work on flat bars (and I assume you have flat bars). If you mean the kind for flat bars that have brake/shift levers integrated, no, fuck that. On flat bars, your shift levers should be separate from your brake levers.
>>962121
>>962123
Btw X5 is just my recommendation if it's compatible with your other stuff. Depending on your brand/model derailleurs, they may or may not be compatible
For anyone who really wants to understand the details of why: http://blog.artscyclery.com/science-behind-the-magic/science-behind-the-magic-drivetrain-compatibility/
>>961254
What's the best way to hit on women while biking?
>>962132
get KOM and talk shit when she makes it to the top and when she gets all pissy give her a kudo and show her your 400 watt face
Hi friends I gave found my rear brake to be a little sponges recently here is a pic do they need replacing? If so could I swap the front ones out as they get very little use? Thanks
>>962190
http://www.sheldonbrown.com/brakturn.html
Skilled cyclists use the front brake alone probably 95% of the time
They don't need replacing but replacing them would definitely improve things, especially if you get high quality pads like kool stops.
>>962193
Sheldon Brown died before discs got big
Disc brakes are incredibly strong and can be pretty dangerous especially if you're in the habit of using the front brake. You can easily go over the handlebars and hit your head
But for poor people still using rims, it's better to put the high end kool stops up front and keep your shit shimano pads in the rear. Kool stops are the Ferrari of brake pads
>>962194
baka
>>962193
Not him but I like to use the rear brake while coming to a junction and signalling a turn with the front brake hand.
>>962193
Real cyclists ditch the front brifter and small chain ring and rear brake
Then hook the front brake to the rear brifter
That's like 900grams of savings
>>962193
>Skilled cyclists use the front brake alone probably 95% of the time
>mfw I use the rear brake more than the front one
Welp.
>>962216
>mfw I don't even have breaks apart from the torpedo in the rear hub
you guys gotta embrace the fast, not fight it
>>962194
You can easily go over the bars with strong rim brakes too. Sheldon is often wrong, but on this, his article is smart, thorough and totally relevant for modern road cycling. To break the fastest in an emergency situation, you need to learn to use the front brake. You need to learn to brace yourself against the bike while braking (the main cause of poor riders going otb). You need to learn the point at which your rear wheel begins to lift (the fastest you can possibly brake), and how to toe that line. Bicycles and motorcycles are ridden differently. I could go on but I suggest you actually read the article, learn something, and improve your technique. It might save your life one day.
Well set up, quality disc brakes can be modulated well but if yours can't, i suggest you upgrade to rim brakes.
Should I get the orange one or the blue one? Orange is the normal high-vis color, but the blue one looks even more fluorescent.
Or should I just buy something else for $30? I don't even need a lock at the moment, I just need to spend $30 and though since all I have is a shitty cable lock it might be a good idea to have a mini-U in case I ever decide on locking up a bike outside.
>>962280
What does hi-vis or fluorescence matter on a goddamn ulock?
>>962282
So the potential bike thief can see it easily and pass over it for a more shittily locked bike, obviously. You're not trying to keep it a secret that it is locked.
>>962280
Advantage of blue is if you leave it locked to a rack but don't take it with you, it is easier to spot. Disadvantage is it looks more like a shitty toy lock.
>>962006
Thanks for the help Scott.
I got a old triumph / raleigh roadbike frame.
I want to change the bb but I have never seen one like this.
the bike ran a full 105 7 speed group but the bb looks like it has plastic cups.
I tried "chisseling" the cups out but I only cut into the cups.
I don't have the hook thing used for other old bbs but the plastic is so soft I can't Imagine it screwing out of he frame.
Do I maybe just pull it out somehow ?
and will the frame fit a normal bsa bb ?
Have had troubles with my steering lately so decided to take out my fork and check everything
Is it normal that my bike has a bit of a crack here? It looks almost too clean to be damaged
>>962216
I use my rear brake almost exclusively so yeah. You're not alone. These Kool stop pads seem kind of expensive, like the whole bike cost me 6x the price of these pads. But I will bear it in mind when I replace them.
>>962325
not cool.
it looks like your stem wedge tore the steerer.
I can really explain how something like this would happen.
Sorry if this is a meme among you guys (I'm from multiple other boards asides /n/) but are portable bikes ever a good idea to buy/use? I travel a lot yet I would like to start taking a bike with me for any sort of recreational riding and exercise. They start cheap, but I'd assume the more expensive models won't fall apart as easily.
>>962460
Folding bikes can range from trash to great
The problem is a decent entry level folder costs a lot more than a decent entry level conventional bike, nothing much below $1000 is going to be any good
>>962123
>>962125
yeah x5 srams don't come in 3x7 and they wouldn't work on my old ass shitmono stuff anyway but I do like your non-integrated suggestion.
anyone ever use these guys? no many options for old ass 3x7 setups in terms of shiftier levers
>>962463
Damn that's a lot. However I did see a non-folder yet small bike at a local shop the other day. It was refurbished and may be a bit pricey but I can go look at it tomorrow if it's affordable. Can't remember the model or brand but it was manufactured in 1981.
>>962529
Yeah you're right. Though now that I think about it I'm still not sure if a folding bike is the best option for me considering that I like to travel but outside of what is done when I go places there'd be no time for riding unless it's for short transport.
>>962536
I've got a decent folder, and while any decent non-folding bike is going to blow it out of the water, they're *really* nice if you fly out to go touring a lot.
I'm building a bike basically from the frame up and thinking of going with an internal geared hub.
What are some of their draw backs?
Would it be practical to keep the front derailleur and have 2 chain rings to switch between for larger gear ratio options?
>>962561
what is the frame?
>>962561
expensive
heavy
too much torque will destroy the hub or your frame
http://www.sheldonbrown.com/twist-internal.html
I don't think you usually see FDs on bikes with IGHs and I suspect that may have something to do with it.
>>962562
Still up in the air. I have an old shwinn traveler III, but it's kinda heavy and I'd like two find a nicer steel frame. Something classic and European built with true chromoly or Reynolds 531 steel.
>>962565
now that i think about it, it would still need to have a chain tensioner.
What is BSO?
>>962610
Bike shaped object, aka a piece of crap.
>>962561
They're heavy, they slip, they shit poorly under load, they never sun as smoothly as a derailleur setup (no matter what the manufacturers will try to convince you), they slip, gear order is inverted on rapidfire shifters, they slip, they have torque limits, also they slip.
And you're gonna need a frame with horizontal dropouts, eccentric bottom bracket or a chain tensioner.
t. Alfine user
Go with 1x9. Cheaper, lighter, smoother, sturdier, wider and better spaced ratios.
>>962625
Speaking on my experience with the Alfine 11.
>They're heavy
Heavier, but not super heavy. I gained around 700g going from a 2x9 to an Alfine 11 with the same range.
>they slip
If they're poorly adjusted.
>they shift poorly under load
It actually shifts quite well. If you put too much load on it then it simply won't shift at all until you ease up for less than a second. Not a huge deal and you don't need to pedal to shift any way.
>they never sun as smoothly as a derailleur setup
In what way? Shifting is much smoother and quicker, actually pedalling the thing is similar to a derailer setup.
>gear order is inverted on rapidfire shifters
Now you're just grasping at straws. The Alfine 11 fixed this compared to the 8 (I'm guessing that's what you're basing all these points off of) and there are probably other hubs that do it "correctly", not that it's an issue at all to have it inverted.
>they have torque limits
Indeed. I have this issue with my mountain bike (the gearing was so low that the torque would pull the axle out of the drop outs) but it's more than enough for road use. I actually ran a little lower than Shimano's recommended lower limit with no issues so it's conservative.
>Go with 1x9. Cheaper, lighter, smoother, sturdier, wider and better spaced ratios.
Yes, yes, no, depends, no, depends. An Alfine 11 has a wider range than any 9 speed cassette and evenly spaced gaps from 2-11.
>>962561
Here's some real, honest drawbacks. They're a bit heavier (dependant on hub choice), can be expensive (ditto), can have a smaller range than a derailer setup (ditto), and most you'll have to lace to a rim yourself or pay someone to do it (i.e. you won't find many complete wheels for sale). For me personally the Alfine 11's drawbacks are completely outweighed by its advantages and I wouldn't go back.
>>962629
>If they're poorly adjusted.
Adjusting it unpoorly is a game of luck with chances similar to winning a lottery. Google alfine slip, it's not a couple of isolated cases.
>actually pedalling the thing is similar to a derailer setup
There's very detectable crunching sensation in most gears. Ride a derailleur setup for a while then hop back on the hub, it really stands out then.
Maybe, MAYBE the 11 is different, but I'm not willing to find out when a 1x setup does the same thing better for less.
>>962634
>Adjusting it unpoorly is a game of luck with chances similar to winning a lottery.
Shit, I should start playing then. I've got two 11s and it was a piece of piss to set them both up. You line up two yellow lines to get it roughly adjusted and then fiddle with the cable tension adjuster whilst riding and shifting until it shifts with each lever press, takes about 5 minutes if that.
>There's very detectable crunching sensation in most gears.
Neither of mine had that. They're very smooth, silent in most gears with slight noise in some but nothing that can be felt through the pedals.
>Maybe, MAYBE the 11 is different
There's no maybe, it is. Everyone who's tried both says the 11 is an improvement. I've never tried an 8 so I won't pass judgement on it, and you shouldn't judge the 11 by the 8's standards either.
>a 1x setup does the same thing better for less
The 8, maybe (regarding the "same thing", not the "better"). To equal the range of the 11 though requires 1x10 or 2x9, and if you don't want a front derailer going 10 speed isn't as cheap (back when I bought my first hub a few years ago it was almost equal but of course it would have dropped now).
I'm on a classic 26" city bike, and I've noticed that my arms are a bit cramped on the classic flat bar (as in my arms tend to stay too straight and stiff). Would bar ends help releasing some of that type of stress over long distances?
>>962644
Yes, but I'd focus more on your posture/fit. You're not supposed to ride with locked elbows.
>>962637
>You line up two yellow lines to get it roughly adjusted and then fiddle with the cable tension adjuster whilst riding and shifting until it shifts with each lever press, takes about 5 minutes if that.
Yeah I did that. Shifts flawlessly up and down all gears. Then two weeks later it slips once when starting from a red light. Then it runs without a hitch for a month or two. Until it slips again. It's not dependable.
>To equal the range of the 11 though requires 1x10 or 2x9, and if you don't want a front derailer going 10 speed isn't as cheap
1x10 is still significantly cheaper. It might not beat the hub in range, but it can reach much softer ratios as they're impossible to attain with the Alfine without exceeding the torque limits.
>>962653
My mistake, I meant 11 speed. It's possible to get close to the same range using 10 speed with a 42 expander cog but unless someone makes a cassette that goes down to 10t it's still going to be less.
A quick 11 speed build on CRC works out to be about £160-170 cheaper than an Alfine 11 (I got my first one at about £80 off so the price difference was even smaller). Yes it's more expensive but for me the advantages it has justify that extra cost (which would be close to equal with 2 cassette replacements which is also worth mentioning, also single speed chains are a fair bit cheaper than 11 speed).
In the end it's like saying that price is one of the downsides of a carbon frame. Whilst that's certainly true for many people it's worth the price, along with some of the other disadvantages that might come along with them.
>>962655
>which would be close to equal with 2 cassette replacements which is also worth mentioning
Out of curiosity, does the alfine have an expected lifespan?
>>962657
If you're asking whether Shimano gives some sort of MTBF, no. Technically the internals can only last so long (the cog, chain, and chainring will of course have to be regularly replaced just like with a derailer) but with a regular oil change I'd imagine it could last more than long enough (i.e. by the time it dies you'd have upgraded, stopped riding, or maybe even died yourself).
There are plenty of much older and primitive IGHs still kicking and the Alfine has fancy gears in an oil bath so maybe it could even last longer than them.
c-can you use bar tape as rim tape?
>>962701
No
>>962652
I don't ride with locked elbows, but this is what eventually happens, the red part is my wrists resting on the handles (they're not hard, it's those gel ones) with my hands not really tight on them. Like, I just came back from a meager 15 miles errand trip and my left wrist is hurting.
>>962034
Are modern bikes worth it? In other words, has the bike industry advanced substantially in the last two decades? For example, Ive only used friction shifters so don't really know how good are the new ones.
Does the "once you try the modern ones you don't want to go back" apply to bicycles?
What is the matter with cheap (100-200 €) industry made bicycles? Why are people so eager to spend 4 figures?
>>962718
You will spend significantly more in repair costs , you'll have generally miserable time and you'll end up buying a proper bike eventually anyway. Better to just buying a proper bike to begin with.
Or you'll ride it twice and then forget about it in your garage or in a ditch somewhere. If that's the case then sure, no need to spend any more.
>>962709
It sounds like there's something seriously wrong with your fit that you should work out first. Barends are a good idea, but no substitute for the correct reach.
>>962710
On road? Rear indexing is probably the biggest change.
Off road, it's a completely different world, with suspension forks and hydraulics as standard on even entry level bikes, and full suspension on the high end.
>>962718
Just to use decathalon as an example, the only things available in the low price range you describe is commuter bicycles. They simply don't make anything good at that price. At the super low price range you get big sacrifices in performance, quality durability, and sometimes even safety.
Now, you don't need to go all the way up there to get a quality bike, butr you can only stretch the budget so far.
>>962724
The saddle is as close as it can be to the handlebar. Could that be it? I am not sure myself, the saddle is kinda like this, spirit leveled, and there's no pain in my legs or anything so I don't think it's the height. The only thing I know is that despite being close to the handlebar I still think that's not enough (as in I don't feel like I am perfectly resting on the ass but I am leaning forward). I suspect I need a much taller stem and a moustache bar.
>>962718
Don't need to spend four figures. Take the midpoint between four figures (1000) and 200 euro bike, and it's a decent price point. 100-200 euros really get you bottom of the barrel BSO. Or gaspipe fixeeh with colorful deep section lead rims. If that's all you can pay, buy used. If you can pay a bit more, buy a severely discounted (like 50%) bike with a higher MSRP.
>>962724
The thing is, is rear indexing that good? Sounds gimmicky to me
>>962727
That's most definitely the issue. By having your saddle so close to the bars, you're moving your weight forward, right into your wrists. You wanna distribute your weight equally between your arms, legs and butt. Slide the saddle back and see how it feels.
>>962732
Why would it be a gimmick? It allows you to precisely shift a gear or two (maybe even three these days) pretty quickly. With friction shifters you run the risk of overshooting and it takes practice to get it lined up precisely. With front shifting it's not as much of an issue as the spacing is much larger and it can even be an advantage as you can make small adjustments to prevent chain rub.
>>962735
Then again, the guy you're replying to sounds like he does have plenty of practice.
>>962734
I will. Nevertheless, what do you think about the arm angle and wrist? Bullhorn and drop seem too much for an old bike, maybe riser + ends?
>>962742
Sure, barends are comfy
>>962735
I'm talking from the ignorance but indexed sounds like something that would be difficult to repair or maintain. Is that true?
>>962701
Use electrical tape, its what I do
>>962743
Anyway this is the current setup. Don't focus on the shit bike but the height and distance. I'm only 170cm/5'6 so don't expect long arms.
>>962749
Sorry, missing pic
>>962751
If you want to be closer to the bars, I would definitely get a shorter stem. Stem length makes a huge difference in comfort, at least for me.
>>962741
That's true, if you're used to friction then indexed isn't as much of an advantage. I was more commenting in general, for those that haven't used friction as much or at all. Also as you go up in speed the spacing gets smaller, so just because you can friction shift 5/6/7 speed well doesn't mean you'd be as good with 11 speed.
>>962745
It's more difficult to setup for sure, and as stuff wears it might need adjusting (turning the barrel adjusters should do. I don't think people really do maintenance with indexed shifters (the actual shifter unit), I don't think they really need any and by the time it's worn you'll probably be upgrading.
>>962751
>>962752
A free option would be to spin the seat post guts around so you can move the seat further forward as it looks like it's already as far forward as it'll go. Not the ideal option of course but maybe worth a go.
>>962745
No.
Unless we are talking about super shitty chinese tin derailleurs on super horrid super cheap chinese supermarket bikes, in that case yes, those can be so bad that getting them to shift remotely acceptable with an indexed shifter is impossible.
>>962745
Indexed shifters basically just add a ratchet mechanism to the simple cable-puller you are used to. The ratchet makes sure that when you shift, exactly the right amount of cable gets pulled or released.
These are very reliable mechanisms that rarely need service - BUT they are more sensitive to worn out cables & cable housing.
Ease of maintenance depends on manufacture and design. Campagnolo shifters are usually the most user-serviceable, Shimano's road shifters are typically not very serviceable, and the same goes for Sram. Most MTB style shifters are user-serviceable but can be a bit annoying to field strip and rebuild if you've never done it before. Shifter rebuilds are not really something you need to worry about though. Maybe once a decade or so.
Most of the time maintenance for indexed shifters involves minor adjustments to cable tension, easily achieved with a barrel adjuster.
The benefits of indexed shifters become important if you are racing. It's a way of always maintaining optimal cadence through changing conditions.
>>962755
No wait, what's the thing about the seat guts?
>>962755
Stems are only $10 or $15...
>>962759
The black clamp that goes on top of the seat post. Notice how it's offset to the rear, take the saddle off and rotate the clamp to the front and then put the saddle back on.
>>962222
hey, torpedo brake IS a brake, and not a bad one
>>962758
Frankly I'm this guy >>962751 and the only thing I'd change is the friction front derailleur/shifter, because no matter how new the cable and the housing and the springs, the system itself is fucking shit so you gotta pull hard to get the thing moving on the top ring (triple chainring) which you usually use. And, no matter how accurate you are with screws and end adjustments, moving to the the top one will often tend to push the chain slightly past the top ring.
>>962761
So you want me to move it further forward or backward?
>>962765
Forward, it looks like you already have the saddle all the way forward on the rails. Even if you don't end up liking it further forward it would be a good idea to flip the clamp and have it closer to the centre of the saddle, that way it puts less leverage on it and is less likely to bend something.
>>962765
Why don't you upgrade to twist shifters?
They're like $15...
>>962768
Because I have to replace the front derailleur first and foremost, to one with fixed positions rather than "pull until it changes ring and then adjust so that it's centered and the chain is not rubbing". It's such a barbaric system.
>>962766
I think I am gonna like it because I feel the saddle is not close enough (at one point I did check if I had some more room to make it closer, so I felt the need at least). I still wonder if I have to make it all in one move: shorter stem >>962752, swap clamp and handlebar ends. Summer is close so I totally need to figure this out now.
>>962769
Derailleurs don't have fixed positions...
/n/ is into wheelie bikes right? Saw a Schwinn Scrambler for sale on Craigslist for $150 with a lot of the original parts and I may just cop it.
>>962770
Fixed as in they operate on "shifts" or single "clicks", however you like to call them. With modern fd shifters you can actually make a shift, you only gotta deal with cable tension, with the old ass shifter you're actually pulling the cable in real time until it shifts.
>>962774
Derailleurs don't operate on "Shifts" or "clicks" or anything other than cable pull. They swing smoothly through their range of motion.
The indexing is in the shifter.
>>962778
https://roadcyclinguk.com/how-to/maintenance/video-how-to-adjust-a-front-derailleur.html
The "swinging" in this thing is predetermined, you click and it moves. That doesn't happen with >>962774, you only adjust tension, limit screws and with the shifter you actually pull and loosen the cable. The same in a way happens with modern ones but you don't have to worry you're rubbing anything every time you shift, once you've set it up once it's good to go.
>>962784
Again, the INDEXING IS IN THE FUCKING SHIFTER, NOT THE DERAILLEUR.
Why is /n/ always so incredibly fucking stupid?
>>962786
So the bottom line is, change the shifter and is that it?
>>962787
Might need an aftermarket barrel adjuster if there aren't any on the bike or the shifters you buy.
There are a couple of additional concerns when you start talking about rear indexing, but front derailleurs are idiotically simply machines.
>>962787
You want to make sure that the shifter's pull ratio matches, but that shouldn't be a problem. You would have to try pretty hard to get something that doesn't work right.
>>962786
>all of /n/
>always
>incredibly fucking stupid
Woah there, careful with that hyperbole
....BROS. How hard is it to replace cables? my LBS quoted me 50 bucks for installation of new levers with the replacement cables
>>962822
20 for a new cable set and maybe 1 hours of work so 20+20=40
Clothing advice please /n/
This is my first winter cycling and it usually gets between 0 °C - 10 °C with it rarely dropping below 0 °C.
What does /n/ reccomend that doesn't break the bank.
>>962829
That's not really "winter" riding conditions as most people think of them.
In some ways it is more difficult to equip for, because below freezing you don't have to worry much about being waterproof. Near and above freezing you can get rained on, which can be dangerous.
As a general minimum you'll need a base layer, a few different midlayers of various weights to suit conditions on the day, two top-layers (one waterproof, one fully breathable), shoe covers, hats, gloves and socks for various conditions.
I've had the best all around performance from Pearl Izumi and Craft Sportswear.
Help me! I have an orbea mx 30 and the bottom bracket needs replacing. I want an upgrade and I was thinking in buying an external BB but i dont know what BB shell size it is or kind of thread, what BB do you guys recomend? is this frame compatible with BB30? or what do i look for?
ps. I dont know if it helps but this BB is a cartridge with a square spindle
>>962862
It just has a typical 68mm threaded shell (otherwise referred to as BSA). Have a look at Hollowtech II stuff and similar 2 piece 24mm axle cranks, easy to install and remove and decently strong.
do the shimano rsx brifters have trim? at leas the 8spd ones?
>>962873
I don't believe so.
Can anyone recommend a waterproof shoe for commuting 5 miles each way on platform pedals? I would prefer not to ride in full height rubber boots or those showers pass booty things.
Anyone here wear glasses?
I have a regular pair of glasses that I use while riding. However, they do not really block the air all that much. It is getting to winter time here so the cold air is starting to really fuck with my eyes when I am going SANIC downhill.
Does anyone have any suggestions for good glasses I could use for riding as well as prescription? I figure something that blocks the wind more will also give me better peripheral vision than the shitters I have now (pic semi-related) which give me fuck all peripheral and require me to turn my head almost all the way around to actually see if there is a car behind me.
Also should I go for straight up tinted/mirrored lenses or is fancy shit like transitions worth it? It would be nice not having to carry a different pair of glasses for indoor/nighttime.
>>962899
Waterproof footwear is a surprisingly complex and difficult problem. Long story short, you'll be more comfortable with neoprene socks, breathable shoes, and a change of socks/shoes + a towel at your destination.
Unless it's a question of preventing frostbite in an extremely cold environment, in which case 45North footwear + multiple layers of loft & vapor barrier are necessary.
>>962907
Get contacts.
Transitions are terrible.
Oakley is top-dog for a reason. Worth every penny.
>>962916
I do not really see contacts helping though. I would still be getting icewind all up in my eye sockets and making my eyes water and squeeze themselves closed. Also I have used contacts before but I am way too lazy to put them in everyday. I also get allergies so for most of the year my eyes do not even accept them.
Good to know about transitions.
>>962919
I assume he means get contacts then use regular oakleys instead of prescriptions
>>962923
Oh, well fuck that, I may as well kill two birds with one stone and wear oakley-styled prescription glasses then.
>>962919
>Also I have used contacts before but I am way too lazy to put them in everyday
Extended-wear contacts are awesome.
>>962927
Yeah, I have also heard of contacts that you wear over night that kind of reshape your eye lens to give you the same effect so you just take them off and you will see normally for however long until it wears off.
They all seem neat but my eyes water like a motherfucker and I can not imagine how fucked up I would be if I tried leaving contacts in for more than a day.
Is there any feasible way to leave things with my bike? There are three things I envy about motorists. The ability to go up hills easily, the ability to have passengers and the ability to leave things in their car/bike while they go to work/class/shops/whatever.
I hate having to carry my jacket and books and whatever else I have in my backpack with me even if I am just running into a shop.
>>962941
>Is there any feasible way to leave things with my bike?
Panniers & bikepacking bags exist.
But your stuff is going to get stolen.
>>962944
Yeah that is what I mean. I know there are panniers and shit but that is not exactly secure.
I would like to think no one would steal a $10 jacket but there is always that one guy.
>>962946
I mean...
I've had a car broken into way more times than I've had a bike stolen.
>>962907
Related to the issue with cars you pointed out. Have you thought about having a mirror gripped to your left handle?
