What if I wanted to convert my chainring to 1x? Do I need to change the rear derauller too, if so why? Pic related is my situation.
>>958581
Why the fuck would anyone do that?
>>958581
Screw in your limit screw on the front so you can't shift. Congratulations, you now have a 1x. If you would like a single speed, simply do the same on the rear. Have fun.
>>958584
There this zen you know, do having a 1x, and not having to shift the front derailer. Just turn your brain off and don't shift the front, just enjoy the simplicity and pure essence of cycling. And since you aren't using your brain anyways you don't have to wear a helmet either.
>>958584
1x is pretty standard for DH and it's catching on in XC. I'm converting to 1x on my XC bike this summer (also replacing the entire drivetrain).
> Do I need to change the rear derauller too, if so why?
No, the derailleur doesn't need to be changed out but you will need to have a compatible bb for your new crankset, a new chain (mostly because it's inexpensive and you should be replacing your chain regularly anyhow, but also because the chain must be compatible with your new drivetrain) and you may also need to replace the cassette depending on compatibility.
>>958605
>Downhill
>Cross country
Look at the bike in the pic, put on your dunce cap and your special dunce gown, because you just passed your dissertation defense to earn your doctorate in stupid. Magna cum laude
>>958581
Gunna need a new. Shorter chain
ANybody have any aero/road style 26 inch forks to replace a suspension MTB fork? The only catch is that it needs to have cantilever brake bosses
>>958581
You won't have to replace anything besides the crankset and getting rid of the front derailleur and front shifter. Will have to shorten the chain; if it's stretched at all (if it's not a really new chain) then best to replace the chain.
Don't do 1x on that bike though.
>>958611
>Why the fuck would anyone do that?
was the question. the type of bike and riding discipline was never specified by the poster, nor was it implied.
your move, fuckwad.
>>958605
>>958626
You don't need to replace the crankset, if he's fine with either of the chainrings he already has then he doesn't even have to buy a new one of those. I'm going to assume he already has a chain breaker so he only needs to shorten the chain (if he's using anything smaller than the largest chainring) and he may need to buy shorter chainring bolts or spacers if he doesn't want to leave the second ring on.
>>958629
No need to seek my approval, Dr. Stupid. Doesn't that feel great, you can call yourself doctor now. Although it smacks of unemployed professor, I can't really recommend it since you are not an MD. Unless German of course, those people will doctor over literally anything.
>>958629
it wasn't specified that 'that' was changing to x1, or at all what 'that' refers to, so we can assume 'that' is what OP is asking about doing, which is converting a modern functional mid range road bike to 1x, which is retarded.
>>958629
Op here. It's a road bike and I usually ride it how you would expect.
The problem I have is that whenever riding I have to shift between the small and big chainring constantly to keep my candence comfortable. I have been thinking about the gear ratio, but I xant really figure out if I should change the casette or a different size chainring.
Last night though I woke up at 3am and then it hit me, ny chanfing my 34/50 front chainring to somethibg like a 42 1x would probably solve all of my problems in a jiffy and I would also have the extra benedir of having a 1x.
Further more, I have been riding my current roadie for 2 years and I have never come across a situation where the hardest gear of 50/12 would have been useful. Like, how fast do you need to go to achieve comfortable candence like that?
I've seen a few guys go 1x with a 42T ring and a wide range cassette on CX bikes, but on a roadie, there would always be a time where you want to be right in between 2 gears.
>>958678
>>958581
OP, a 1x setup with a 42t chainring and a close-spaced cassette (or maybe just an IGH?) might very well be the right answer for your riding needs. The best way to be sure though is to put your relevant numbers into this calculator:
>http://www.sheldonbrown.com/gear-calc.html
Look at the results and figure out which ratios you use - then enter a 42t chainring and see what kind of cassette you'd need for that to work.
Going 1x on a road bike can be done very simply, and you can skip the narrow-wide ring if you want to, because unlike mountain biking there's much less chance of throwing a chain when you're on relatively smooth pavement.
As for your other questions issues:
1. switching between 34 and 50t rings is a big jump in gear ratio, are you also shifting the rear when you ride or just ignoring it? Because shifting the rear is something you should be doing a lot more, to fine tune your cadence as your ride.
2. 50-12 isn't something you're going to spin easily unless you're riding a long, steep descent. Most of the time that gear is used for hard effort sprints, where it's not supposed to feel comfortable.
>>958678
I've done exactly this on my commuter, most people won't help you because they think its sacrilege to do it to a nice road bike though. The major downside is that you either lose range (a couple of high and low gears) or you lose finer cadence control (ie shifts go from being 10-12% cadence change on average to 20%)
A few notes:
-you want the widest range cassette you can fit, and you have a modern 105 derailleur which can definitely clear a 30t and sometimes a 32t max sprocket, depending on derailleur hanger / b-screw (tl;dr a 11-32 cassette)
-consider removing one or two sprockets from the cassette, whichever two give the smallest jump (ie the last 1t jump) which will drastically reduce chain angle in the two extreme gears
-youll need shorter chainring bolts or spacers for your existing ones (I use M10 stainless washers lmao)
-If you're running n speed, use a n+1 speed chain for more flexibility
-You dont NEED a narrow/wide chainring unless youre going off-road
-IMO something as low as 40x11 is high enough for anything except descending the steepest hills, but don't say that near other cyclists or you'll get ripped to shreds
>>958693
Right now I feel like I'm missing like 4 gears from exactly where I needed them to be.
Am I an autist for not wanting my chain grinding on my front deraulleur or someplace else? You know, if you cross the chain so much so that it starts to make a noice. Because that is the root of this problem I have and it seemingly can't be fixed with adjustment alone. I have to jump the gap between 50 and 34 constantly, while avoiding the grinding noice. My gut feeling says that if I throw a 42 teeth chainring in to that mix it gives me more choises in mid range gears while taking out the extremes for witch I have no use anyway. I live in an incredebly flat area I can drive a 70km circle with under 100m incline.
>there would always be a time where you want to be right in between 2 gears.
I have none of this problem with my 1x commuter, and wouldn't this problem be solved with changing the chainring to a slighly different size or changing the casette.
>>958698
Or you could just buy some CX rings
>>958698
You sure your derailleur is set up right? and you know how to trim it? you should be able to use 8 sprockets in the back with each chainring without any chain rub (for 10 or 11 speed).
>>958704
I find that I can only use 6 gears on a smaller chainring and 7 gears on the bigger from a 10 speed casette with absolutely no chain contact to parts.
If by trimming, you mean adjusting, then yes. It should be set up right and I have kind of been struggling with this dilemma since last summer, but only now have accumilated enough skills and knowledge even to have a slight idea of what I should or could do.
>>958717
Your front shifter has four positions for the front derailleur, two for each chainring. Moving between them is called trimming, are you aware of that? You probably are but I'm not sure if we're talking about the same thing.
How important is wheel true? Mine wobble on smooth concrete.
Just get the SRAM Force CX1 group if you are really into Singlechainringsetups. it'll look pretty retarded to cripple down your current setup just because of your autism
>>958721
>Moving between them is called trimming, are you aware of that?
I am now. Just migh put my plans for bigger modifications on hold for now.
But yeah, seriously I can shamelessly admit that I had no idea, I have wondered what that half gear shift was about, but I never really thought about it all that much.
not sure if this is the right spelling but what's "neocot"? Translating bike manga
>>958735
dw dude, I rode pretty seriously for years before actually understanding what those weird half shifts do, for some reason it's never really discussed and its barely even referenced in official shimano documentation. the tl;dr is that your derailleur has 4 positions, LOW, LOW(trim), HIGH(trim) and HIGH. You should set up your cable tension and limit screws so that in the small chainring, the lowest 4/5 sprockets work with the LOW position, and the next 3/4 work with the LOW(trim) position. The large chainring is the opposite, so the top 4/5 sprockets should work in HIGH, and the next 3/4 should work in HIGH(trim)
>>958737
Dude what, it's in the fucking shifter instructions, don't use you not reading the instructions as an excuse.
>>958738
Yea, in my manual specifically (4600) its just mentioned that there is a "noise prevention mechanism" and if you hear chain rub while cross chaining you should give the levers a small tap. I mean, I know thats the gist of it but its a pretty small, basic explanation that doesnt really explain whats going on. I mean, now that I understand it, the manual makes perfect sense, but if youve never used sti shifters before its just kinda like "huh ok ill tap it if I hear the chain rub wait wtf now im in the small chainring, wtf happened" and then you re-read the booklet for more info and there isnt much more information, so you just do what the guy above did and be like "well i guess ill just avoid those weird half shifts"
>>958736
never heard of it
>>958695
>-you want the widest range cassette you can fit, and you have a modern 105 derailleur which can definitely clear a 30t and sometimes a 32t max sprocket, depending on derailleur hanger / b-screw (tl;dr a 11-32 cassette)
http://www.wolftoothcomponents.com/products/roadlink
>>958744
I was going for a "how to convert to 1x with the fewest possible changes to a standard road bike" sort of deal, where you just change cassette and maybe chainring and not much else, but yeah, those seem pretty nifty. Have you used one, if so, what was your experience?
>>958736
You mean ネオコット? it's custom-drawn steel tubing made by Bridgestone/Anchor. It's really cool because of how it's joined, which allows it to be lighter weight without losing strength. They make a road bike and a mountain bike from it. Bridgestone is supposedly going to try and return to the US market with those bikes and a few others.
>>958736
It's a proprietary technology of Anchor (Bridgestone) Bikes of Japan, where steel tubes are hydroformed at the ends to produce a half-lug at the end of the tube, and this hybrid tube-lug is brazed to other tubes. There's no separate lugs, the lugs are integral parts of the tube. At the same time, it isn't fillet brazed mitered tubes, as the ends of the tubes form sleeves that fit around the other tubes like lugs.
Are there any major disadvantages of wide tyres besides, aero? From what I've seen the weight isn't much difference. My bike is kind of a relaxed touring frame with more than enough room for 28mm but I have 23s atm. Also I'm wondering how much better a wider tyre will perform in the wet, because it's almost winter here. And how beneficial it is to have a tyre with channels in it? Do ya'll have different tyres for summer and winter? I was thinking maybe i'd get some slicks next summer but buy some 28s now for winter? Also some of the roads here are fucked and my alu frame is seems to be stiff as fuck too so I was wondering whether wider tyres would be more comfortable, or is that more to do with pressure? Another problem I have is that my rims are SHIT. They are light and aero enough but if I get out of the saddle to put some power down they flex enough to rub the brake pads despite the fact that I'm a skeleton. Is it possible to tighten up all the spokes to fix it? They don't seem to have much tension at the moment, they are aero spokes though btw, maybe that's why they flex sides to side so easily? But i don't have a tension measure to make sure I don't over tighten them.
>>958750
Aero isn't even a disadvantage. The big performance difference between tires is rolling resistance, which evidently isn't affected by width until you go above 32mm. Weight, grip, handling, and puncture resistance are all considerations, too.
Wider tires allow you to run lower pressures, so yes, they'll be more comfortable on shit roads. They'll do better in the wet because they have a larger contact patch. Channels don't matter, as hydroplaning isn't a problem for bicycles except for at insane speeds (like over 70mph), but it can be beneficial to traction to have some form of tread.
I don't have different tires for summer and winter. I have different bikes. Panaracer Pasela TG/PT tires on all of them, except for one that has Panaracer Fire XC Comp 26x1.8. Panaracers aren't remarkable, except that they're incredibly average in all respects. Almost like it's on purpose. And they're one of the only companies still making 26x1.8 tires.
If your rims are weak enough to flex like that it's probably time to just get new wheels. What kind of wheels are you running now?
>>958748
The weight is not that light. It's light for steel, but not ultralight, and there are lighter frames that don't use the technology. They run about on par with a frame made from heat treated kuromori that isn't top of the line. The problem with hydroforming, especially with odd shapes, is it becomes more difficult to control wall thickness. Even though the thin parts of the tube are drawn down to 0.4mm like other heat treated steel tubes, the butts have to be 0.9mm for deal with the expansion. On other butted tubes, you would expect a thickness of closer to 0.7-0.8mm. The joints on the neocot frames probably handle stresses better, and are much more elegant than welds though.
>>958754
Aero is a tiny disadvantage. Rolling resistance goes down up to about 28mm for a given pressure, because 28mm is about as big as they make racing tires. Then agian lower pressure is generally the reason to run wider tires. Weight also tends to increase by quite a bit in that jump to 32mm.
A larger contact patch doesn't really increase grip. It just helps the tire from losing ground contact, but part of that is lower pressures. If you're talking about the wet, a larger contact patch actually increases the non-existent chance of hydroplaning because ground loading is lower. Channels help a little with loose surfaces, like a little bit of mud.
>>958612
>>958626
>>958635
>shorter chain
Do you people remember to shorten your chain whenever you shift into the small ring?
It might be a good idea to increase chain tension and reduce grams, but it's hardly necessary. And if you change cassettes, you need to fact that as well. If he decided to have a 50x32 gear, he'd need a longer chain.
>>958605
It's a road bike you dunce, and converting to 1x does not require a new crank.
>>958611
Gentleman and scholar.
>>958622
>aero/road style 26 inch forks
What does that even mean? You do realize you most likely will have to run a suspension corrected fork, don't you?
>>958626
>You won't have to replace anything besides the crankset and getting rid of the front derailleur and front shifter.
Why would you replace the crankset, the front derailer can serve as a free chain guide if he doesn't get a clutched rear derailer, and his front shifter is most likely attached to his brake lever, so it would probably be advisable to not get rid of it.
>Don't do 1x on that bike though.
This is the correct answer.
>>958629
>>Pic related is my situation.
Context.
>>958635
>if he's fine with either of the chainrings he already has then he doesn't even have to buy a new one of those
>chain derails when you hit a bump
>>958638
YOU ARE A GENTLEMAN AND A SCHOLAR KIND SIR.
>>958678
Or you could change to chainrings that aren't compact with a 16t spread. Also maybe you should stop being slow and fat.
>>958694
IGH are not close spaced.
>>958695
>think
You make it sound like this is a subjective opinion and not an objective fact.
>(ie shifts go from being 10-12% cadence change on average to 20%)
That's absolutely disgusting. The only place you'll find a 20% jump is megarange, an extended forty-some tooth cassette.
>>958698
Adjust your shit properly and trim, and buy a junior cassette for babies with babylegs.
>>958755
Also the fork weighs 1000g, which is on the heavy side even for a steel fork.
>>958622
Mosso on EBay.
Why do we put padding in our shorts instead of just using saddles with more padding?
>>958581
This spring i build my gf a new bike with a 1x10 drivetrain. She doesnt like front shifting and keeping track of crosschaining and stuff like that, so the goal was to keep it simple, and she loves it.
I build it with a new deore rear derailer and a narrow wide chainring in the middle ring position on an old mtb triple, works wonders.
Your main concern is the chainline. I honestly don't know how you alter the chainline on a crank like your with integrated spindle, but it's easy and cheap to swap the bottom brakcet on a square taper.
You don't have to change the rear derailer, there is no such thing as a 1x specific derailer, but you may limit yourself to a narrower range on the cassette with your current one.
>>958787
Because padded saddles create friction against your thighs
>>958789
>You don't have to change the rear derailer, there is no such thing as a 1x specific derailer
no u
When does the new season of bikes usually start appearing in shops?
I'm in the market for a new bike but not sure if I should wait and see what new metrea or tiagra hydraulic models come out
>>958801
early Autumn is when you'll see new models
>>958803
What month is that?
>>958750
>Another problem I have is that my rims are SHIT. They are light and aero enough but if I get out of the saddle to put some power down they flex enough to rub the brake pads despite the fact that I'm a skeleton. Is it possible to tighten up all the spokes to fix it?
It might indeed be because your spokes have lost tension. The nipples seat themselves in the rim material within the first few hundred miles of use, and you might need a tuning after that. Let your local wheelbuilder do it, or buy a tensiometer. The ParkTool one is good enough and doesn't cost much, but still more than having your wheels tuned and trued by a professional.
The right solution might actually be a softer rim.
Assuming your spokes are at adequate tension the most probable causes are: underbuilt wheels with too few and/or thin spokes, a rim that is too stiff for the intended build, faulty dropouts possibly covered with tons of paint that allow the whole wheel to twist, a frame that is too soft to use in combination with very stiff wheels, brake pads set with inadequate clearance, using the quick release wrong or any combination of the above.
You can not make a wheel stiffer by adding spoke tension. Contrary to popular belief, but nonetheless true. Hookes law applies. If a spoke stretches 1/100mm under a 100n force, this will apply no matter the pretention already applied. It doesn't stretch less with that 100n extra force under 1500n pretension than it would under a 1000n pretension.
Curious fact: none of the spokes in a statically loaded tension-spoked wheel show increased tension. The is only a decrease in the pretention of the lower-most spokes. The only time a wheel will see a spoke tension increase on the pretension is with torsional forces from disc brakes or pedaling.
What's a better hub, Primo Remix(female) or Animal Javelin?
>>958758
>>aero/road style 26 inch forks
>What does that even mean?
it means i want something more contoured and not round, ugly, and chunky like pic related
>>958777
oh shit, thats exactly what im looking for. I always forget about looking on ebay for this stuff. thanks
>>958805
late august/September, around when school starts, hang in there
>>958586
Great wit Anon
>>958758
>It might be a good idea to increase chain tension and reduce grams, but it's hardly necessary.
>reduce grams
>hardly necessary
DEATH TO FALSE FREDS
>>958758
is this the return of af?
>>958777
>Mosso
they have several models with different axle-crown heights. check their webpage to make sure which is the one you want
Does any big name brands still make good steel road bikes or mtb?
>>958992
Jamis
>>958999
So, no?
Would replacing a square/octalink crank with a HOLLOWTECH™ II be possible and, if so, viable at all?
Also, my more reasonable question is, what degreaser/cleaner does /n/ uses for their chains (apart from stink ass gasoline)?
Thank you!
>>958992
Kona has a thing, I think.
I've been trying to get my gears working good... Lots of work... Just noticed my cassette has a slight wiggle when I get the wheel going fast and look at it from an angle (the free wheel is engaged so the cassette is NOT turning). What could it be?
Don't even know how smooth I can expect the gears to run anyway. My Rd wheels seem pretty loud in some cases, it seems too much. Maybe I should go to my lbs because this is getting fucking old. They work well enough to go for rides but I'm fucking sick of it being so mediocre and having to make sure they're good enough for the next day, I just want to enjoy riding.. It's strangely grinding one cog for no reason - the second biggest. Going bad too soon after my adjustments as well. Can't expect shifting to be perfect on the whole cassette so usually I aim to have it work well while the chain is not crossed, as I shouldn't cross chain it anyway. But even then that's hard.
Strangely the fd has stayed good for ages now. I was having some trouble with that too originally. But it seems 10 gears is more complicated than two.
>>959161
>Would replacing a square/octalink crank with a HOLLOWTECH™ II be possible and, if so, viable at all?
you can, make sure you match your crank with your cassette (Speed) and the chainline
>Also, my more reasonable question is, what degreaser/cleaner does /n/ uses for their chains (apart from stink ass gasoline)?
Water+Soap. Its a fucking chain, its meant to be replaced
>>959183
>its meant to be replaced
Clean as in cleaned from old oil residue and gunk, before applying a new layer of fresh oil for extra smooth operation. Ain't going to be replacing it every few months just because. However, I am yet to unlink my first one, so whatever.
Cheers.
>>959161
Diluted simple green. Any stronger than 1:4 is a waste.
>>958811
> The only time a wheel will see a spoke tension increase on the pretension is with torsional forces from disc brakes or pedaling.
Or you lose tire pressure.
>>958850
But your bike is ugly anyways
>>958865
>Anon
>>958888
Go fred yourself
>>959161
If you get the right bottom bracket, and face your bottom bracket shell. Why would you ever need to fully degrease a chain?
>>959179
This is completely normal on freewheels. Cassette hubs should be better about it though.
>>959184
You only need to wipe off the outside of the chain, for which dish detergent is mostly adequate.
>Ain't going to be replacing it every few months just because
Do you even ride?
What do ya'll think of chinese crabon?
I've been thinking of buying a Chinese brand ultra light frame and wheel set. Then I'll mix n match some shimano components rather than get a groupset.
Brands are for freds
>>959199
>not even buying branded chinese
Buy it. You deserve it.
is it safe to ride a bike with a slightly smaller frame, but with a longer seat tube ?
also, are the seat tubes with suspension a meme ?
>>959202
>seat tubes with suspension?
Wait, what? Are you talking about seatposts? Suspension seatpost are stupid.
A slightly smaller with higher seat is absolutely fine, and in some cases preferred.
A frame that's much too small is bad unless you have an extremely long seatpost.
>>959207
seatpost, exactly
it's an mtb, and looking at pic related, mine has 45 cm frame and the 17,5 cm cranks. Wheels are 26", it's an 90s rigid MTB and I kinda like it. I was planning on selling it with the my street bike and getting a hardtail...
>>959187
>Why would you ever need to fully degrease a chain?
The thing the LBS put one is some sticky piece of shit that attracts dust and crap like I've never seen in my life yet. Need to take it off and put my preference, """low-maintenance""" thing for the bike to feel more mine.
And also decided to give the old one's a bath if I was to do one.
>You only need to wipe off the outside of the chain, for which dish detergent is mostly adequate.
I am doing it regularly with a dry cloth.
>Do you even ride?
Yeah I mostly commute and have a recreational ride every week, but now I'm going to be doing it much more often.
Cheers.
>>959208
Yeah, that's fine, if you're comfortable on it.
I want to put a new stem on my bike, my bars are just normal aluminum riser bars, I don't have a torque wrench - can I do it safely or should I bring it to a shop? I also don't have a stand, the tutorials suggest taking the front wheel off, but since I don't have a stand I guess I'll have to keep it on, it's not going to be an issue, right? Can I mount the stem "bare" with no kind of friction paste on the part where metal touches metal? Doesn't seem THAT important honestly, just a nice measure I'd take if I had expensive carbon bars.
Oh also I'm changing the front derailleur, I just need to untighten the cable from the old one, screw the mount off, open the chain, put the old one out, new one in, then just adjust it normally?
When is shimano releasing new group sets?
>>958581
Everyone seems to miss the fact that you have a gxp bottom bracket.
All you have to do is remove your crank derail and shifter and just buy a sram 1x10 crank set
>>958789
To adjust the chain line on the external up bearings you do so with the spacers provided with the bottom bracket
>>959208
Be sure about the insertion limit and you will be fine, if you surpass it, your frame eventually will fall.
>>959273
>insertion limit
I'm not sure I know what you're talking about.
The mark, above which I shouldn't extend the seatpost ?
>>959240
Honestly, the only time I really bother with a torque wrench is with carbon components.
>>959275
Yes, that mark, usually around 15cm of seatpost.
>>959275
Here's a pic with a wrong seatpost insertion
I want to do something similar to OP. Is it possible to just change out one gear on the cassette? I want my highest gear even higher.
>>959290
Yes, small cogs on cassettes can be individually replaced.
>>959240
just don't use all your force, you'll be fine. also, why would you need a stand? just take the top cap off and change the stem, it's as simple as that. grease is good, because the stem won't get stuck and tightening the headset (with the top cap) will go easier.
question:
i like the hand position i have with flat bar with bar ends for climbing and speed, but i also like the wide grip i have with risers for the downhill part. what's the solution here? i just tried putting the bar ends on a wide riser, it looks ridiculous, pic related. has anyone ever tried putting the bar ends *inside* of the grips and brakes? is there any downside to this?
>>959199
I see a lot of new fags asking about China carbon as if it's $200 for the complete bike.
China carbon bikes still ring in at like $1200-2200 to assemble....
First time buying a road/hybrid bike to be used as a form of exercise and fun. It's supposed to work the same muscles that I use for amateur road motorcycle races. What are some key things to look for while scouring Craigslist?
5'6
29" inseam
http://orlando.craigslist.org
>>959311
Budget?
>>959316
There's not much to choose from on your CL, especially considering your height.
These are a tad bigger than the ideal for you, but they're decently prized and have integrated brake/shifters.
https://orlando.craigslist.org/bik/5580032094.html
https://orlando.craigslist.org/bik/5587782890.html
These are cheaper but have downtube shifters
https://orlando.craigslist.org/bik/5597741285.html
https://orlando.craigslist.org/bik/5549564846.html
https://orlando.craigslist.org/bik/5525803464.html
These are great deals but from a nearby CL, not Orlando's.
https://tampa.craigslist.org/pnl/bik/5591618671.html
https://tampa.craigslist.org/pnl/bik/5594099589.html
And then there's this one which is dirt cheap and pretty small frame, in case you would just want something to kick around
https://orlando.craigslist.org/bik/5565453827.html
>>959318
Thank you very much Anon.
>>959320
Sure. Just remember to test ride any bicycle before buying it, make sure it feels comfortable, that everything works and nothing rattles/wobbles/clicks/whatever, and ask as many questions about the bike to the seller as you can, to make sure they're not stolen.
Looking for a casual ride for the summer, I'm a college student so biking will be my main method of transportation aside from the bus. I can't really afford more then $200 right now, unless it was an absolute steal
I'm 5'11-6'0
33" inseam
Does this look decent? I've been looking on craigslist for a few days but I can't really tell which are ripoffs or not
https://madison.craigslist.org/bik/5600442795.html
>>959246
>fsa
>gxp
Seriously fuck off seig
>>959355
>>959321
>>959320
>>959318
>>959316
>>959312
>>959311
>>>/n/bbg
>>959209
You still only need to degrease the outside. Use a cloth soaked damp with a degreaser or solvent. And replace your chain.
>>959240
It's only an issue with carbon and you don't go crazy toquing it down.
>>959242
Months after their press releases
>>959286
>15cm
>>959294
Buy a longer seatpost
>>959292
If he can find them, and doesn't already have an 11.
>>959307
>grease
>tightening
>top cap
>>959311
It doesn't.
i asked here a while ago about getting a bike because i can't bring my car to uni next year and i was told to get a 90s rigid mountain bike. how important is it that the bike doesn't have suspension/shocks/idk what they're really called i'm dumb sorry? i think i'm going to try to get this for $125 soon
>>959431
It is worth about $20 and I would personally only take it for free, if at all.
>>959431
its not.. but if you land hard on cheap suspension you will probably fuck something up. The suspension you have on the bike in the pic is minimal and will probably just add a little comfort to the ride. If it truly is just commuting then you are doing ok.. the drive train is probably well worn just from the looks. Probably needs a new chain $20-40. Look to see if any of the cogs in the cassette are shark fined, if so you can add a few more bucks into fixing it. The bike will probably last a long time with a little maintenance.
>>959431
for $125 it better include a blow job. $50 for that is tops.
Stupid question but I'm trying to build a gravel bike out of an old Miele road bike frame. Want to put knobbies on it for hard packed gravel. How do I measure to see how big of a tire I can fit
>>959441
There's no real method other than mounting the tire, all tires fill out differently. Mounting the largest tire of your own for comparison is a good starting point. From that you can sometimes look up people's tire measurements in online reviews and compare.
>>959441
OP. Does anyone have any gravel tire recommendations?
I need to replace my group set after totalling my brifters and handlebars in a freak accident. I could get this used (in great condition) SRAM rival groupset for 280.00 USD from a local seller. He says the levers are as good as new and there are only minor scrapes on the crank set. He's only missing the brake set. Should I do it or am I going to regret buying used carbon/sram components? I don't live in the States and these kind of shit is insanely expensive to import.
This is a picture of the actual thing. Looks pretty good to me. Also, I have an older generation Tiagra 10 speed cassette, is there any chance I can use it with this?
>>959456
Another one.
>>959457
Last one. I promise.
>>959456
Used sprockets and chains shouldn't be expected to have much life left. If you get it, make sure to inspect all the sprockets for wear and measure the chain for stretch. Maybe get the brifters and derailleurs and not the rest?
>Should I do it or am I going to regret buying used carbon/sram components?
SRAM is great.
>Also, I have an older generation Tiagra 10 speed cassette, is there any chance I can use it with this?
If the new set is 10-speed too then yes. SRAM and Shimano 10-speed cassettes have the same cog pitch.
>>959355
Looks fine, but as with any used bike, make sure to inspect it in person for worn sprockets, broken parts, etc; and test ride it before buying. Good idea to replace the chain after buying, chances are high the old one is stretched.
>>959456
Do wiggle/ merlin/ crc/ ribble really not do free shipping to your country? You can get a new Tiagra group with brakes for US$20 more, or a new 105 group for 100 more. It's kind of hard to tell but the wear on the rings and cassette doesn't look non existant and it's not going to feel as good as a new group. That rival group is a generation old too. Can't you just replace the shifters and the bar anyway?
http://www.wiggle.com/shimano-tiagra-4700-groupset/
>>959459
He's from another state and swears that it was just slightly used. So I can't inspect it in person but I could return it if he's bullshitting me.
>>959460
Yeah, that's what's worrying me. But I'll just return it if he's fucking with me.
>>959461
They don't. And even if they did, customs would just rape me with fees and or steal my shit. That Tiagra groupset is what I was thinking of buying, but I really doubt I could get someone in the States to ship it to me.
Why wouldn't it feel as good as a new groupset? Is wear on those things so bad? I already replaced the bars, but the rest of my components are shit because that's what I could afford when I build the bike. I upgraded the wheels to mavics laced to ultegra hubs and bought a Ritchey handlebar and stem combo. A new groupset would complete the build nicely. Also, what is CRC? I know the other two stores, but not CRC.
>>959468
Nvm. I just found it's chain reaction cycles and they do seem to ship to mexikistan.
>>959469
And they charge a fucking fortune for the shipping. FML.
>>959471
Yeah, but you can get Canyon bikes in Mexico.
>>959473
I'm not looking for a complete new bike, buddy. :/
>>959386
did i use some of the terms wrong? i meant that if you try to tighten the headset while the stem is stuck you will just rip out the threading of the star nut
>>959386
>A longer seat post
Yes, that's was my original question. Thanks.
A slight side wobble on the rear wheel, what does it mean. Tighten the axle?
>>959529
Depends. If it rattles around when you move it by hand, then the axle may have come loose. But it sounds more like your wheel came out of true.
>>959529
most likely out of true, like anon said
buy pic related, learn how to use it, straighten your wheel and impress your friends with your mechanical skills
>>959530
>>959534
When I move it by hand, already trued it yesterday, but need to change a couple of spoke heads, which I fucked up previously with a bike multi tool.
The axle is it then, thanks a lot!
>>959536
You can take this opportunity to clean and re-grease the insides of the hub, if you just tighten it and it's too dry inside (because of the time it spent with that little gap some dirt may have gotten inside) you could end up with an overtightened axle
>>959543
Thanks for the heads up, I have to buy some grease anyway.
So I'm a poorfag and I have an old mongoose from when I was in high school. Is this a good brand? Would I be better off buying a better second hand bike?
>>959565
It used to be a good brand, and they still make good bikes, but they sold their soul to supermarket-tier crap so most of the Mongoose bikes you see out there are awful. Frame brand should be the least of your concerns, as long as it has decent components and it's well taken care of, it should serve you just fine.
>>959566
Alright I'll have to check it out later today and then I probably post more questions. It's probably about 10 years old and hasn't been ridden for 7 or 8. What basic maintenance should I perform first? It's a mountain bike btw, I never really used it either so it's probably still in good shape. Also its been stored under the house.
>>959568
You'll most likely have to replace the tires since they deteriorate over time even if you don't use them, same with brake pads. It would also be advisable to replace shifter and brake cables, and to clean and lube the drivetrain.
>>959549 opinions please
I'm interested in learning about bike gearing and group sets in general, anyone know of any good guides out there?
>>959573
If they're the same price, I'd go with the Trek. Both bikes are very similarly specced, but it's always nice for your bike to be a bit lighter, plus carbon fork feels so gud. You'll lose some hipster points though.
I'm building my first bike, do I need to buy rim strips?
>>959590
It's a good idea to. If you've already got all the other parts and you're really impatient then electrical tape will also work.
>>959591
it won't. don't use LX, it doesn't support the pressure from the spoke heads. not for long anyway
>>959592
It does, I've used it before. Obvious you want to do more than one layer, and if you do enough it can definitely take the pressure of even the highest pressure skinny road tyres.
How hard (or easy) will it become to average 25-30 km/h (15.5-18 mph) or so with a fairly heavy city bike?
Public transport takes a while to get to my work and if I can average 25 km/h I already save a signficant amount of time.
I'm +-165 lbs at 5'10, but my condition is currently horrible from sitting on my ass.
>>959594
Not very easy. Get a decent hybrid (basically a drop bar road bike with flat bars) and it'll be doable once you get a bit fitter.
>>959595
Why not a proper drop bar?
>>959599
Because they're more expensive and the guy's probably not in the best shape so it'll be less comfortable.
Does anyone here commute and have a physical job?
Is it a 7 mile commute doable if the job is physical or would I be too tired, or would I just get used to it?
>>959607
People can do amazing amounts of work... Well, some people. Depends on your genetics, nutrition, fitness, quality of your sleep,stress levels. How can we say? But that sounds tough to me I don't think I could do it.
>>959605
I don't seen any reason why drop bars have to be less comfortable than flat bars. Quite the the opposite.
>>959605
Has the comfortability to do with the size of ones ass?
My pelvis is a bit wider than normal for men and when I was in shape I had a very clear hourglass figure.
Now I have a very small gut, though still a narrow waist.
>>959608
It'll take about 30 minutes I've done it before. On the way there it's downhill but with one very steep hill.
I'll get used to it. Either that or I get a motorbike.
>>959594
>if I can average 25 km/h I already save a signficant amount of time.
>I'm +-165 lbs at 5'10, but my condition is currently horrible from sitting on my ass.
There's no way you're averaging 25km/h. If you don't know your average speed then you obviously haven't spent much time on a bike and you admit you're unfit. Considering the fact that city bikes are shit you can probably hope for 15km/h.
>>959614
I used to average 20-22km/h without trying to improve my condition but it's probably 18 by now.
>>959611
Being hunched over isn't all that comfortable, especially if you're not that flexible and fit. Drop bars are for being more aerodynamic and going faster, not for comfort.
>>959614
He said that was his goal, not an estimate of what he can actually do hence him asking if it's doable. I'd say it is on flat ground with a fairly light and efficient bike and as fitness increases over time (165lb at that height isn't bad).
>>959629
>Drop bars are for being more aerodynamic and going faster, not for comfort
Bollocks.
I got a flat bar hybrid and fuck me is it shit on longer rides, I was getting almost carpal tunnel like symptoms due to the lack of hand potions, and have your hands in a flat bar position just feel unnatural and uncomfortable. I've got bar ends which make a big difference but I would still prefer drop bars.
Please don't act like you know what you're talking about, you're just embarrassing yourself.
>>959457
These are $95 from chinkland
I own them, I'd say same quality as old 105 the 5700
>>959629
You don't really know what you're talking about, i see. Anyway, going faster is what he said he wanted to do, and being aero is definitely more comfortable on drops than on flats.
>>959629
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=28ADO9pC1BY
I just started gripping the bar at the hoods this season as well.
Is there any difference between v-brakes and (dual) pivot ones? Now my rigid MTB has cantilevers and I don't like them.
>>958584
Saves weight, less things to break, and if you change the cassette you have almost the same gear range. Front derailleurs will die soon, they already are dead in MTB and CX
I'm trying to install a new front derailer, a SRAM X5. My bike is a 3x9, it fits low clamp, top pull derailleurs. This one is a low clamp, dual pull.
I can't for the life of me understand how to fit this asshole. What gear do I need to be in to start with? smallest cog? Middle cog? Largest cog? This shit is never explained properly, arrgh.
>>959674
Also, I need it to be top pull, I don't understand how the dual pull mechanism works. Pic related.
Yes, the cable is a little fucked, I will get around to changing it in the future.
big arrow is direction where the derailer swings
small arrow is... do I need to route the cable like that to change the pull direction?
>>959662
v-brakes are much more efficient than cantilevers, and much easier to set up properly.
>>959677
thanks, but what about v-brakes vs pivot ones ? I'm not sure what to order from the two.
>>959683
Not sure what you mean by "pivot". Are you talking about dual-pivot rim brakes? Because you can't put those on a MTB.
>>959686
yeah, those, i'm just lazy to type. Thanks!
>>959677
>v-brakes are much more efficient than cantilevers
No, they're not. It's countered by the matching levers being less "efficient" to give the same overall system "efficiency". V are linear and easier to set up. That's it.
>>959700
Of course it can. You're just running the cable backwards. It comes down into the hook at the right of the rocker-thingy in your pic, runs under the rocker and attaches to the screw plate from underneath.
>>959700
So, that black bracket that pivots is at an angle.
The high side is where you attach the cable if it's a bottom-pull - because then the cable pulls the bracket downwards and move the cage out.
If you attach the cable to the other side - possibly just wrapping it from the low side around to the high side bolt & plate.
>>959702
beat me to it.
>>959676
>>>Millenials.
>>959593
good point. i literally didn't consider multiple layers.
still, i'd rather buy a proper band, considering its low enough cost and my slight ocd.
>>959702
Figured it out the second after I made that post, fuck me.
I'm still stuck though. Doesn't want to act like a three speed. It's really finicky.
I'm not one for giving up so I'll use the last bits of daylight to see if I can figure out how to have it shift three times instead of 2 and a bit, but since the cable is all splintered I think I might just call it a day and go to the LBS for a new cable and derailleur adjustment, they're nice guys so I guess I can.
>>959703
>>959706
Yeah I got it backwards.
>>959723
You probably just don't have enough cable tension, basically because you didn't set your low limit screw prior to doing the cable install.
It's an easy fix, but if you don't get it right you will tend to drop your chain while riding.
>>959732
I think I set the low limit screw good enough, about 1mm of space on smallest cog/biggest ring on the cassette, then when I shift up it kinda half asses it, and I need to shift again in third to get it to move to the second cog. I don't think I understand how much tension I need on the smallest cog - too little and it won't even move the mech, too much and going into 2nd requires hulk strenght, in-between and the 2nd shift is just too half assed to really shift.
Changing the high limit does not appear to be doing a whole lot, btw.
>>959735
Low limit screw keeps the chain from falling off into the frame, and sets the initial resting position of the derailleur cage.
High limit screw keeps the chain from falling off onto the crank arm.
You don't have enough cable tension. From the sound of things, it is slack enough that you will need to release the cable and re-install it again with more tension, before you can fine-tune with a barrel adjuster. It can take a few tries to get a feel for this, if you've never done it before.
You may also need to replace the cable with one that is not frayed before it will work properly.
Be sure to set the shifter so that it is in the "small chainring" position.
>>959737
*also make sure you have the derailleur clamped at the correct height and angle
>>959737
>>959738
I gave up, no matter what I do it will act as a two speed front derailer with a stupid high tension, and won't work at all if there is a bit of slack. If I add more tension to the cable when it's on the smallest cog, switching to the middle cog is bordering on "crack the shifter"-strenght.
Tomorrow I'll bring it to the shop, god how I wish I had a 2x10.
>>959633
As you mentioned, bar ends can give you a secondary position. I've done a 3 hour ride on a flat bar (no bar ends) with no problem. Don't forget, we're talking about a commuter bike here and not something that's going to be ridden for hours at a time.
>>959637
A flat bar bike will be plenty fast enough, going slightly faster with drops may not be worth it if he's not going to be comfortable on it.
>>959746
>going slightly slower with flats may not be worth it if he's not going to be comfortable on it
Fixed it for you.
>>959755
That's a very valid point, if he did indeed find drops to be more comfortable than flats. I'm willing to assume that he won't.
The thing is there's still the matter of cost, a flat bar road bike will almost always be cheaper than one with drops for the same spec and there are also more lower priced flat bar bikes to choose from.
any canadabros think they can hook me up with some undervalued gems? I'm on a bit of a budget but want to get into cycling. I've visited many bike shops in montreal but most vendors keep redirecting me to the thousand dollar bikes. Looking for a road bike for 2/3/400 dollars max, can anyone guide me to somewhere where i can find a deal like this?
>>959769
Just say you want to pay that much, they'll direct you to them (unless you're going to full overpriced fredmarts).
Also don't spam, /n/ is short on content as it is without you you diluting it.
![grafik3[1].gif](https://i.imgur.com/N8eaJly.gif "grafik3[1].gif")
>>959594
The bicycle weight will hurt a great deal on stopping and accelerating, and hill climbs. At the upper range of your speeds though, aero becomes the predominant issue.
I'd also be somewhat concerned about the combination of steep downhill, heavy bike, fat ass, and commuter traffic. Losing weight is good, but not by rubbing your fat all over the concrete.
>>959613
30 mins. 7 miles. about 14 mph. You're already almost in your range.
>>959595
A hybrid is a reasonable option, but not for the flat bar road bike retarded reasons. That anon is so incompetent about basic riding position and performance. It's safe to conclude that anon has never actually fitted a drop bar bike to anyone, certainly not himself.
The biggest advantage of the flat bar types is that they're generally cheaper and very plentiful on the used market. 50-100 dollars for a chromolly mountain bike conversion, plus the cost of and cargo gear is very hard to beat, and give you super low gears for the steepest hills. But if you found a old steel rando or light tourer, or maybe even something comparable to a surly cross check in your price range, it would be completely idiotic to ignore it because of the drops.
>>959662
You won't be able to just switch from cantilevers to v. You'll have to change the brake levers as well, or use a pulley to change the pull ratio..
>>959785
There's really no good reason to get a drop bar bike unless you're going to be touring/racing on it.
But you are correct that the main reason to go for a hybrid is that they're cheaper.
>>959805
It's exactly the opposite. Drops of some form have been the enthusiast's choice for over a hundred years, and for very good reasons.
Since anon is a fucking casual, it doesn't matter that much though.
>>959813
>Drops of some form have been the enthusiast's choice for over a hundred years, and for very good reasons.
Because they're faster, no one is disputing that. For everyone not wanting to go as fast however flat bars of some variation have been the most popular. Even if you want multiple hand positions for long distance comfort (I doubt anon is riding too far) there are shit loads of options other than drops.
>>959742
>Tomorrow I'll bring it to the shop, god how I wish I had a 2x10.
This isn't a "2x10 would fix all my problems" problem. You would be having exactly the same issue with a 2x10, because you have something set up very wrong. I'm not sure what.
>switching to the middle cog is bordering on "crack the shifter"-strenght.
this sounds like you have your high limit stop set too far in, or there is some other form of mechanical obstruction to the normal operation of the shifter. Adding cable tension should never make it more difficult to shift.
>>959769
>Looking for a road bike for 2/3/400 dollars max, can anyone guide me to somewhere where i can find a deal like this?
Buy used or save more.
You can't get a road bike worth owning for four hundred canuckbux if you are insistent on buying new, but the same money may get you something decent on the used market.
>>959827
>one hand position
>two if you shell out for bar-dildo ergogrips
Yeah, no.
>>959844
You don't need a shit load of hand positions. The whole point of going from the drops to the hoods is to get you more upright, then to the flats to move up even further. Flat bars don't have such a low position to begin with and you can move your hands inwards to get further upright.
Bar ends would bring you slightly forward so you could use a slightly shorter stem and have the other two positions even more upright, or keep the length the same for a tad more aggressive and aero position, as well as rotating the wrist.
Then there are all the other alternatives, some of which have even more positions than drop bars.
http://seattle.craigslist.org/see/bik/5592648393.html
is this an ok bike for $425??
looking for something to ride on the weekend with friends
>>959431
>>959573
>>>/n/bbg
>>959441
With a ruler
>>959456
>SRAM
>>959481
That's a problem of not unscrewing the stem bolts.
>>959530
Those are called cones
>>959543
Grease has little to do with being over tightened, and QR hubs are supposed to have a slight bit of play.
>>959578
Get on my level, pleb.
>>959590
Veloplugs
>>959591
>>959593
You need several wraps and it deteriorates over time because electrical tape is stretchy and the glue shifts, and then when you get a flat, you will feel silly because replacing the tube cost more than rim tape. If you want to do a shitty job taping a rim, you can use Gorilla tape.
>>959592
>spoke heads
Disgust.
>>959594
It will take a fair amount of effort because the tires are shit, and no aero. Not impossible, but don't count on it.
>>959595
Why would you not just get a road bike with drop bars?
>>959599
Less phallic.
>>959605
>comfortable
>>959607
It depends on how weak you are. I'm guessing it would be too much for you.
>>959612
Yes, obviously you need a seat to match your ass size. Go to a bike shop and ask to use their ass-o-meter and buy one of the saddles meant for your massive ass.
>>959629
Look at him and laugh everyone.
>>959633
If you want a single hand position bar, you should get North Roads, or at least Marys
>>959643
It's obvious some people have a phobia of drop bars because they're too confusing and complicated for their tiny minds. North Road bars are acceptable for non-enthusiasts.
>>959662
They require different levers unless they're minis, and they're completely different from dual pivots and mount on canti bosses.
>>959666
Satan please go. Your deceit, lies and false temptation are not welcome here.
>>959674
You put it on you fucking moron and then you adjust it.
>>959676
Read the fucking instructions. This is what you get for not wearing a helmet you human vegetable. Wrap the cable through the slot on the other side of the lever, wrap it under and around to the cable clamp.
>>959683
They mount in completely different ways moron. The obvious answer is disc brakes.
>>959723
Learn to adjust your shit. Do you think bikes are duplex legos for babies?
>>959742
You are a fucking moron, and LBS mechanics are also morons that have no idea how to set up a triple.
>>959762
>assume
>>959785
>stopping
Baby fingers detected
>>959827
Casual
>>959839
He should just got 1x like OP, or better yet, a fixie.
>>959854
Did drop bars touch you when you were a child?
>>959864
>>>/n/bbg
I found a diamondback sorrento at my parents house that was barely used. Every thing seems to be in decent condition besides a small amount of rust. Will this be a viable mountain bike with some modifications? I'm going to clean it all up tomorrow and will post some pics.
My front derailleur no longer shifts down properly, limit screw is all the way out. How can I fix this?
>>959932
It's almost certainly cable tension, likely the cable slipped where it attaches to your front mech. It needs to be be tensioned properly, nothing to do with the limit screws.
>>959921
It'll handle easy trails, but be better suited to multi-use paths and generally cruising about.
>>959932
Other anon is right, but it may be helpful to rephrase his comment: the issue likely that the cable is being pulled, and that's preventing the derailer from pivoting all the way until it hits the limit screw - make sure any barrel adjusters threaded all the way in and that the cable isn't getting stuck on something on it's route between the shifter and derailer. If all else fails, unbolt the cable from the derailer and see if the issue persists.
>>959864
If you're about 5'6" then yes that's a good deal.
>>958695
>-You dont NEED a narrow/wide chainring unless youre going off-road
I did 1x on a CAAD4 -- 105 long cage, 32t, 1x front. Dropped the chain 3 times on an all-day ride in NYC
Narrow wide fixed it
>>959854
The only reason NOT to have drop bars if for MTB.
If you can't see that, you haven't given them a chance
Tips for someone brand spanking new to cycling?
>>959963
ride lots, have fun
>>959963
If you slow down too much you'll fall over.
>>959971
How slow can I go before I fall over? Like, what's the tipping point?
>>959999
Yes
>>960008
Little Bitch
>>959999
That's entirely up to you and your sense of balance.
Witnessed.
>>959999
Depends on how well you can track-stand.
>>960028
>brand spanking new to cycling
>track-stand
yeah no
>>959594
I commute on a rather heavy bike and my cruise speed would be something around the values you posted (although I average less, since there's many stops and whatnot in the city traffic) and, on my short-y ride, I save lotsa time. And I mean lotsa. Going the same streets as me buses do, I'm about halving the time already.
Remember, going by bike makes your commute much more flexible. You don't have to stick to the same streets as public transport does. Shorten the ride, filter thru traffic jams and you're going to be faster.
And what >>959785 says. Going up on a heavier bike is tough, but you'll see more stop/start crap and accelerating is hard on heavy shit. I know that.
>I'm +-165 lbs at 5'10, but my condition is currently horrible from sitting on my ass.
Averaging 25-30 is going to be hard right now, but you'll eventually get better.
Cheers.
How do you get out of a rut? I've made cycling such an integral part of my existence for some time now but recently I've found myself wavering. I had the flu and that threw me off my game but it's been a month now and I haven't trained the same amount or with the same amount of enthusiasm, I find myself missing more and more training and I've been questioning why exactly I ride.
Well this rapidly turned into a fucking blog so tl;dr how do you get yourself out of a rut and stay motivated?
>>959614
>Considering the fact that city bikes are shit
Dude that's a Gazelle. Top quality dutch bikes. This is not shit. Trust me.
>>960085
A couple of things that can work: setting specific goals, riding for fun instead of worrying about 'training'; or if you know you're behaving in a self-destructive/moody way, sometimes the answer is simply tell your brain to shut up and just go ride.
>>959594 (me)
Thanks for the replies guys.
Lots of helpful info.
Averaged 20.5 km/h over a small distance with wind factored out.
That speed has always been my most comfortable cadence I feel comfortable at but it does tire me out.
So I clearly have a lot of work to do with stamina but that's expected after a year of sitting primarily on my ass.
I could get a 2nd hand recumbent, we don't have much hills in the Netherlands
What would happen if i tried to stick a road groupset on a mtb, or vice versa?
I want to make a monster cross.
Would a tandem recumbent dominate the tour de france?
Weight becomes negligble because weight of the recumbent is effectively divided among 2.
Gotta go fast
![obama_bike[1].jpg](https://i.imgur.com/YgpLRAb.jpg "obama_bike[1].jpg")
What helmet is best for someone not looking to drop a bunch on it?
There's someone selling a 2006 Kona The Jake frame (with fork, headset, seatpost, and cantis) in my area for $80. Still in good condition. Good deal?
>>960133
2008, i mean.
>>960132
Draft with recumbent is a little harder since they tend to be a lot lower.
>>960126
if you don't crosschain and the capacity of your rear mech is large enough, you should be fine. it's all the same stuff, really
>>960133
Nah. Offer $50.
>>960133
Yes.
>>960132
I agree with the climb part (although FWD recumbents climb ok), but trying to draft a recumbent is like trying to draft a kid on a tricycle unless you're a midget.
>>959785
I can barely belief that graph.
Is a recumbent really that fast on a flat?
what the fuck? why are stems so fucking expensive?
inb4 engineering cost for changing length and angle in a CAD program
>>960155
Pretty sure a lot of the speed records were done on recumbents. Drag isn't nearly as big a problem on those things. They're kinda shitty in a climb though.
You should try riding one if you get a chance, they're actually pretty spooky on long/steep descents.
>>960160
Because people are willing to pay for that.
I agree that the majority of them stupidly expensive for what they really are, but unless you already have have fabrication equipment it's cheaper than making your own.
>>960160
the expensive ones are expensive
>>960165
>they're actually pretty spooky on long/steep descents.
More like why's that car going so slow? There should be a 50 mph speed limit.
*splat*
>>960160
the cheapest stem i know is about 20 bucks, would you consider this expensive? anyway, i don't see why people would actually pay more than that, whats the advantage? better quality?
>>959932
Could also be a frayed, kinked or dirty cable.
>>959963
Wear a helmet. And a blinky. And a bell. And kneepads. And elbow pads. And training wheels.
>>960126
You need to make sure you have chain/crank/chainring clearance, and your geometry will be shit.
>>960132
Can't get much of a draft off a bent. And a bent could sprint pretty fast. a Bent breakway would be hard to chase.
>>960160
USO 7050 stems.
>>960182
UNO 7050 is all three, unless you need a sprint stem.
>>960160
I've had pre built bikes in the past and the cheapo stems they use on them are wayyyyy heavy the cannondale, giant, trek (bontranger) and the fixie ones state bicycle
The cheap ones have crappy hardware and crappy face plates take one apart and you'll see how shitty they are.
I use 3t for everything now $65 for alloy and I never have to worry about it ever
>>959963
Learn the traffic rules.
>change stem on my mtb
>from 100mm to 60mm
>mount it up fine
>seems okay
>go for a test ride today
>seems okay, then at the first moderate braking I feel a LOT of play in the headset
Fuck!
I spent some time trying to re-tighten everything to no success. It just won't tighten all the way in, top screw does nothing, there's a bit of play between the fork and tube or something along those lines It's as if the headset pieces came loose and won't fit all the way in again.
Yes, I untightened the stem before tightening the top screw. There's like a rubber gasket around the headset that is always loose-ish. I the stems appear to be about the same height, this maybe a mm taller, I have no idea, what could prevent the top screw to tighten everything together? Can the... gasket-things on top of the headset stay loose and prevent from everything clicking together?
>>960229
Were you using any spacers before? Maybe the clamp on your old stem was a bit taller, so now the star nut can't be properly tightened without a little spacer
>>960233
There is one spacer, below the stem. I'll have it checked over by the shop as I don't have any spacers around, so at worst I'll just have them give a once over to the whole bike and buy a spacer from them.
Sigh.
>>960233
probably over torque'd top cap and pulled star nut up
What do you call the area where the seat tube and downtube meet? How to I regrease/replace what is inside?
>>960244
bottom bracket
on tutorials, check what kind you have (or post a pic here if you can't find anything on it) and look for an appropriate video. it's ez, but you'll most likely need a special tool to remove your crank arms
>>960246
Thanks a lot, will do.
>>960122
That's not too bad, depending on what bike you were riding. Do you already own that Gazelle or was that just an example of what you were looking to buy? If not, what's you're bike?
>>960229
Something that sometimes gives me issues is the split conical washer, the thing that goes into the headset last and the spacers/stem rest on top of. Sometimes it can bind up.
Take the stem off and slide up the split washer, make sure the upper bearing race is all the way down and then slide the washer back down. You may also want to try lightly tapping the top of the stem with a rubber mallet if the washer still won't go in all the way.
Does anyone have experience with old Daccordi frames? Are they any good?
Finally found a frame small enough for my mother, but I don't want to pay extra for gas pipes with a nice decal.
>>960265
They're a really old small Italian brand. You should be able to tell if it's hiten steel just by lifting it. It should be fine.
>>960258
>Something that sometimes gives me issues is the split conical washer
So THAT is the english name for that piece of shit.
That thing doesn't appear to fit all the way in. It was the only thing that was really glaringly wrong, but I didn't want to go and force it.
Guess I know what to try tomorrow, thanks.
>>960182
I don't care for the weightshred unless i would compete in alot of races which i don't do, therefore i am going the cheaproute for many years and i've never had a failing stem.. So i don't get why people pay so much money for stems, handlebars or even seatposts. Like, i just bought a 16 bucks Cinelli seatpost for my commuter and it just works, the only difference would be nothing but the weight and i've seen alot of failing carbon seatposts, while i haven't seen a single aluminium one (But that doesn't mean there are no failures)
>>960246
> you'll most likely need a special tool to remove your crank arms
you mean "rent one"
1: locate sports chalet with a bike section
2: buy a $69.99 tool that costs maybe $2.99 if harbor freight sold it...but since it's painted blue and says PARK TOOL ON IT...it has 2 be expensive
3: remove crank arms
4: Return
5: Buy their bottom bracket tool
6: Remove cartridge/square taper bottom bracket
7: return that too
8: Buy a shimano bottom bracket and thank god the only tools you need are an allen key and that plastic disc specialty tool shimano provides free with a new BB
>>960258
>That's not too bad, depending on what bike you were riding
I already owned that gazelle.
Not exactly the same model, but similar enough 3 speed model.
I am thinking about buying a new one if it offers a significant speed advantage (10-20%)
A 2nd hand older recumbent may also be an option but parking is a little harder with one
Would anybody have an idea on what I need to do to adjust these brakes? They got damaged a bit in transport, but nothing I've done has been able to get them centered. (they aren't the best)
I'd like to avoid replacing them since I don't really have the cash, but it seems no matter what I do, I end up making them worse.
First the right side was touching the rim too much, then after I fiddled for half an hour it was the opposite.
>>960290
I for one like owning tools. Bought mine for 5 euros on ebay...
>>960272
Alright, I'll ride there on my lead pipes and compare the weight. Other than that it's just checking the paint, welds, dropouts, tubes and all that for quality? I know the hallmarks of a good frame, but I don't know good frames, if you get my meaning.
If the frame is in order, is 200 euros a good offer? Groupset is old 6 speed 105, somewhat worn, hard to tell from the picture. Certainly dirty. Tires and wheels are garbage, and flat, too.
>>960309
for an obsolete system?
truth is those tools aren't great for much today anymore
even the single speed/track gears are moving to the GXP style....with the ominum cranksets
>>960317
Many of my family and friends still use old enough bikes for it to be relevant often enough. That doesn't make your comment any less true though.
>>960290
>one post sieg pretends to have all the money in the world
>the next he's pretending that crank pullers and BB tools are >>>"expensive"
i'm going for a test ride tomorrow for this bike
anything I should know? I think that if I feel good riding it i'll buy it
is it any good? the guy in the store is obviously saying it's good but go trust a salesman
i'll use to maybe commute to work if it's sunny and likely to do some exercise
>fuji absolute 2.1 2016
>>960334
>hi-ten fork
>rim brakes
>8 speed
It's garbage. Literally low-end dead-end borderline BSO. Not worth investing into or upgrading later on. Only get it if you plan on riding it twice this summer, stashing it in your basement then never touching it again.
>>960334
for that money you can get a pretty sick deal on ebay/craigslist/your local equivalent
buy used bikes people
>>960343
If you must go brand new then that's not a bad bike for the price. If you can live with single speed then you can get a disc brake bike for a bit cheaper (Vitus Dee 290, or 260 for almost £100 less).
If you like the bike after riding it then get it, don't feel that you have to get something else just because people want to pressure you.
