/bqg/ - Bike Questions General
Last thread: >>946053
Resources:
http://sheldonbrown.com/
http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help
Does anyone besides Nashbar make very small panniers? I want roughly 5L (300 cubic inches) per pannier (so 10L/600in total). I am aware that there are other options like frame bags, handlebar bags, trunk bags, etc. but I'm specifically looking for panniers. And something better quality than Nashbar.
Basically something just like the Nashbar Daytrekker but a different brand.
My second largest cog on my cassette makes clicking noises. I have a 11-32 so it's the 30T. I have a tiagra 10 speed, couple years old.
As far as I can tell everything is adjusted ok. All the gears are working although I've never been able to get the shifts perfect in both directions. The little derailleur wheel is directly in line with the cog so I don't think this is something I can fix by adjusting the index. I can't tell where the noise is coming from. Just really confused why it's only happening in that one gear.
>>949042
Type this in to Goog
"small panniers site:bikeforums.net"
Searches only bikeforums for your question. It's a valuable query to use but there are some idiots on that site.
From the search results:
http://www.bikeforums.net/commuting/206791-small-panniers-nashbar-delta-axiom.html
http://www.bikeforums.net/touring/206378-small-panniers-delta-compact-something-else.html
http://www.bikeforums.net/touring/834439-small-inexpensive-panniers.html
You might also just try looking for "front panniers" but I don't know if those have the same attachment distance from top to bottom hooks
>>949050
> I've never been able to get the shifts perfect in both directions.
Did you buy a 9 or 11 speed cassette by mistake?
>>949053
>Look at the Thule Shield, and the XLC Expedition (but this one's Chinese, like the Nashbar one).
Thanks for the suggestions but I'm looking for something about half the size of those.
>>949054
I checked Bikeforums, that's where I found the Nashbar Daytrekker. Most of the options they mention are much bigger than what I want.
Right now it looks like my options are the Daytrekker or custom make some. And I'm not a /diy/er so I don't know if that would go well.
>>949050
Are the teeth on that sprocket worn/sharked?
Clicking noises sounds like an issue with a misadjusted derailleur or a bent derailleur hanger, or a stretched chain. Any of those would generally not be in just the one cog but drive trains are weird like that sometimes. Is your chain a 10 speed chain? How long has it been doing that? Have you replaced any components recently? Do you use the 30T significantly more than most of the other cogs?
>>949050
>All the gears are working although I've never been able to get the shifts perfect in both directions.
So your cabling is deal. Replace it. If you did already, let someone else do it properly.
After I change my tube I cannot get my tire back on my wheel. Both my LBS say it is because it is a Rolf wheel. They both use a device to put the tire on the wheel.
Is this common?
I am going to Japan in 3 mo and I want to bring my bike. but I would rather have tires that I can change if the tube is popped. How do I search for wheels? Will any work on my road bike if it is the same size as my current wheels?
If you need specifications pls ask
how do i determine if my left sti brifter is triple or crank? just got a pair of RSX brifters and the seller said they are triple but i've never had triple before and don't have a triple crankset to test. It does 3 upshifts and 2 downshifts, does that determine it somehow?
>>949081
They probably use a bead jack. http://www.amazon.com/Kool-Stop-Tire-Bead-Jack/dp/B001AYML7K/
If you don't want to get a bead jack, you have to consider various things when buying a new wheel.
>wheel diameter
>rim width
>rim drilling (presta or schrader)
>dropout spacing
>quick release, bolt on, or thru axle
>rim brake or disc brake
>[in case of disc brake] disc brake mounting style
>[rear wheel only] cassette vs freewheel vs singlespeed vs fixie
>[rear wheel only; in case of cassette or freewheel] drivetrain speed
Also consider dual wall vs single wall (dual wall is stronger, heavier, and requires tubes with long valve stems)
>>949083
>triple or crank?
I assume this is a typo and you meant 'triple or double'?
>It does 3 upshifts and 2 downshifts, does that determine it somehow?
If it's triple it should do 2 upshifts, 2 downshifts. If it's double it should do 1 upshift, 1 downshift. Some brifters have built in 'trimming' so that might be why you feel extra clicks.
i've an aluminum frame and i was told to bead blast it(w/ glass beads) as opposed to sand blasting it.
where do I require the materials to bead blast it? or do I take it to an automotive shop? thanks!
>>949087
>I assume this is a typo and you meant 'triple or double'?
kek yes
>If it's triple it should do 2 upshifts, 2 downshifts. If it's double it should do 1 upshift, 1 downshift. Some brifters have built in 'trimming' so that might be why you feel extra clicks.
I guess its the trimming, depends how smooth i shift, it either feels like 2 up or 3 up, so it should be triple since it does 2 downshifts, right?
>>949087
Hey that bead jack looks small enough to bring with me.
Thanks for the list anon. you are a-OK
>>949090
If it is indeed 2 downshifts (not one actual downshift and one trim) then yeah it sounds like it's a triple. And I believe that the trimming function is typically only for upshifting or downshifting, not both. So yeah I'm 90% sure you've got triples
>>949094
allright, i'll just try to get a triple somewhere to test out
>>949093
>Hey that bead jack looks small enough to bring with me.
Make sure to practice at home first. Don't want to end up with a flat out on the road, only to realize you don't know how to use your tool.
I suggest also bringing a few spare tire levers. If it's that difficult to get the tires on, it's probably difficult to get them off too, and stubborn tires have a tendency to cause tire levers to snap.
>>949096
noted. I'll practice with some old tyres.
>>949083
>3 up, 2 down
Can confirm it's a triple, you need the 2 down to hit all three rings, the 3rd upshift is a trim position as previous anon said. Good news is that you can still use a triple shifter on a double crankset if desired, you'll just end up with an extra unused trim position.
>>949088
In your shoes I'd call around to local (as opposed to chain stores) shops that sand/beat blast, ask them what they'd charge to do the work for you, then take the opportunity to ask them where you could get the beads locally to do it yourself.
>>949093
>bead jack
No, anon. Just no. You need a set of flat levers to help you get the tyre off. Seating the tyre should be done without force or you risk puncturing your newly installed good tube at the roadside. You should have at least two levers, hooked and plastic.
Learn to lever, and learn to install tyres without tools. Once you do, you will know how to use a lever safely. Bead jacks are wrong, risks damage to your tyre bead, rim and tube.
>>949102
>Can confirm it's a triple, you need the 2 down to hit all three rings, the 3rd upshift is a trim position as previous anon said. Good news is that you can still use a triple shifter on a double crankset if desired, you'll just end up with an extra unused trim position.
awesome! i'll try to get a RSX triple, seen one getting sold locally but damn the chainrings look like someone dragged them through space and time
>>949105
Doesn't have to match the shifters. Any same speed chainset and/or FD will do.
>>949103
I have a set of flat levers. Getting the tire off the wheel is hard but possible. Getting it back on after replacing the tube is extremely hard. Both LBS I have taken it to have had to use a device (that I have just learned is a bead jack) to put the tire back on. Both LBS could not put it on with regular tire levers.
>>949102
thank
helpful bunch on this thread
/n/ is rad
>>949103
He is having difficulty putting the tire on, not taking it off. Some wheel/tire combinations are *very* difficult to put on (to the point that you can easily break a few plastic tire levers trying to put it on just once). A bead jack will absolutely not damage your tube -- tire levers run the risk of puncturing the tube if you're not careful, one of the big advantages of bead jacks is that they do *not* present that risk. And I highly doubt a plastic bead jack is going to damage a metal rim, especially if used properly. Will it damage the bead? Maybe if you really hoover on it, but the same could be said of tire levers.
>>949107
yea but i want to use its full function, feels crippled if i don't
>>949111
what is funny is my LBS would not tell me what device they used to put my tire on. I could see them do it in the back,though. Then they charge me $10 dollars for labour. Luckily only 2 pops this year... cheapos :c)
>>949108
Either your tyre is defective or YDIW. The well of the rim is deep enough that if you keep the bead at the bottom of it all the way around you can comfortably get a bead of the right diametre over the bead hook without stretching. Tyres vary a bit, and sometimes you'll come across one that is outside tolerances. These should be returned.
Here's a good video. Lika I said, if this doesn't work your tyre and/or rim is defective. More likely the tyre.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uNhLPXfd8FM
>>949114
I do not know much about bikes other than I like to ride them so you can very well be right. I've had 3 different sets of tires on my bike and they all are too tight to put on normally. My LBS say it is because the wheels are 'racing wheels'. I bought the bike second hand so I cannot return. Tomorrow I will check my bike and see if I can move the bead lower. Thanks for concern +help
>>949111
>He is having difficulty putting the tire on, not taking it off.
The process is the same. In both cases it's a matter of getting the bead into the rim well. Tyre installation is not a matter of streching the bead over the rim edge. It's a puzzle where both parts fit over each other if arranged properly.
>A bead jack will absolutely not damage your tube
You risk getting the tube caught under the bead at some location around the rim, and as you pull on the bead trying to stretch it over the rim side wall, you'll pinch the tube. Pinching it with the tool or the bead has the same effect.
Applying enough force to stretch a bead is more than enough to deform a lightweight alloy rim.
>>949116
>My LBS say it is because the wheels are 'racing wheels'.
Your LSB is run by retards. Tubeless rims are slightly harder to install tyres to because the rim well is not at deep. There is nothing about "racing wheels" that makes installing tyres more difficult. An LBS using a bead jack on "racing rims" is also a sure sign that you shouldn't trust that mechanic farther than you can throw him.
>>949113
What did they say when you asked what they used? Was it just blatantly "we don't want to tell you"?
>>949114
Not true. Some are very difficult to get on. There's a reason that even highly experienced mechanics use bead jacks for the most difficult tire/wheel combinations.
>>949117
Using a bead jack rather than tire levers vastly reduced the likelihood of damaging the tube.
>>949118
No, you're a retard. They told him that it's because they are 'racing wheels' because that is how he would understand. Sure, they could go into the specifices, but to put it very simply, they're right. "Racing wheels", i.e. 23c tires are going to typically be much more difficult to install than, say, "mountain bike wheels" i.e. 26x2.1" tires. And what do you think someone who isn't a bike mechanic will understand better? "It's because they are racing wheels" or "it's because they are seven hundred by twenty three see".
>An LBS using a bead jack on "racing rims" is also a sure sign that you shouldn't trust that mechanic farther than you can throw him.
Someone making claims like this on /n/ shows that he's just an idiot and you shouldn't listen to his posts or advice.
>>949083
RSX might be 2 or 3 speed.
All the old 9-speed stuff used to be the same for doubles and triples. It was when the 10 speed stuff came out they made dedicated double and triple shifters.
>>949118
Unless tires are Schwalbe or rims are Campy.
>>949131
>highly experienced mechanics use bead jacks
>>949135
A
FUCKING
DOWNTUBE
>>949135
There's nothing wrong about using a bead jack, if the only reason is your your hands don't get sore if you're changing tires all day.
But yeah, tires should be designed to go on by hand, and off by hand or with one tire lever. You're not going to go to a LBS mid-way on a ride when you get a flat are you?
>>949135
I have changed hundreds of flats and I still use bead jacks on the most difficult tire/rim combinations. Even people who have been professional mechanics for many years do. You clearly are inexperienced seeing as you've never encountered a tire/rim combination difficult enough to warrant the use of a bead jack. If you changed flats much, you'd encounter one eventually.
>>949138
>You're not going to go to a LBS mid-way on a ride when you get a flat are you?
>not bringing 3 tire levers with you on your rides
anon pls
>>949135
>2016 and he's this pleb.
>>949139
yeah recently i had the cool combo of campy 2-way rim + panaracer pasela + latex tubes
fuck latex tubes
>>949138
>>949139
>>949194
Schwalbe professional bikes tires never require a bead jack because of superior tight manufacturing tolerances
Schwalbe
Never ride second class
Should I get this?
What are some good chain maintenance tips? How often should I be lubricating the chain?
>>949239
Buy a $5 brush at Home Depot, similar to the attached pic, and some Simple Green. If the brush causes irritation when you rub it on your skin, it's too coarse, find something softer.
Spray the chain/drivetrain with Simple Green, let it sit for a few min, spray it again and then go at it with the brush. All the gunk should come off easily. Hose off and towel dry when you're finished. Re-lube everything shortly after.
DO NOT spray the hose stream directly into areas where water may become trapped.
guys.
I'm super confused.
I want to upgrade a old steel frame to 1x10
I have a compitable wheelset
I have a 10 speed 105 shifter.
I have a suitable crank.
now I need a deraileur.
i just noticed the frame dosen't have a integrated deraileur hanger.
do I buy a deraileur hanger and put on a 105 rearmech and just roll with it ?
I'm affraid the road cassett might be a bit narrow.
I also could get a Shimano Hone RD-M601 SGS for real cheap.
the product text says it dosen't need a deraileur.
how is it fastend ?!
also
it's a 9 speed mtb deraileur.
it should be compitable with a 10 speed sti.
dose that mean I can use a 10 speed mtb cassett.
I just don't get it.
>>949249
>do I buy a deraileur hanger and put on a 105 rearmech and just roll with it ?
You could, if you have horizontal dropouts or some other means of fastening a derailleur hanger.
>how is it fastend ?!
To a special hub QR-skewer.
>dose that mean I can use a 10 speed mtb cassett.
Yes. You could use either road or mtb 10spd cassettes with your 9spd derailleur and 10spd road shifter. The cassettes are spaced the same.
>>949223
Have you tried mounting marathon pluses? You'll lose your fingertips before you can mount it on.
>>949239
Get a jam or pb jar
Pour in paint thinner
Place chain inside
Shake
Remove and let dry overnight
Apply squirt wax lube
Never have to degrease again
>>949249
>I want to upgrade a old steel frame to 1x10
You can't.
Old steel frames have a much narrower dropout spacing than new frames which are designed to accommodate 10 speed cassettes.
>>949263
But if it's an old steel frame it can be easily re-spaced to accept a modern 130mm hub.
>>949263
to be honest , it fit's quite fine.
either the bending was so little that I didn't notice it ore t's allready 130mm
I haven't even thought about this until now.
the frame earls 80s or late 70s , I'd guess.
Is a claris 8 speed brifter compatible with 90's shimano 600 8 speed group?
>>949270
yes
>>949265
>re-spaced
You mean bent.
>>949272
thank you
>>949251
allready thanks for the input.
but follow up question.
I'm using a inbus skewer like pic related.
if I remove one side , I'm left with a solid threaded axel.
is this compitable with the hone deraileur ?
also I really don't know much about hone components.
is the deraileur a respectable choice for a 1 x 10 setup.
especailly considering the longer mech of the hone.
and, using a 10 speed road shifter , 9 speed mtb deraileur and 10 speed mtb cassett ,
can I shift 10 gears or 9 ?
and finally, am I overthinking this and am I fine with something like 38t up front a 11-28 casett back ?
Saddle cutout or not? How to tell without investing 100+ bucks on different saddles?
>>949255
Yes ,widths 23 to 37 and also the plus variants.
Now conti's ultra heavy tires THOSE are hard to mount
>>949276
buy 2 or 3
wrap the rails with tape
go for a ride
keep the one that is comfortable, return the others.
Just how bad is having Tourney stuff on a commuter?
>>949288
Not bad at all. Tourney stuff is pretty sturdy, just try not to break any plastic parts
I'm not a native english speaker.
Is there a term for "bike you built/assembled from scratch"?
Googling for "custom bike" only returns me shit like pic related.
>>949288
It's ideal in some ways.
Cheap to replace, won't make the bike a target for theft (e.g. 105). Don't really have to give a shit about leaving it out in weather.
>>949298
"project bike"
Anyone got the edits /n/ made to this pic?
>>949309
I wish I saved them. Apparently there isn't a single 4chan archive site that cares about /n/
what type of bike is a Raleigh m50 fully rigid. with a fully rigid bike can i do drops or should i stick to trails
>>949245
>DO NOT spray the hose stream directly into areas where water may become trapped.
adding to this, just don't spray the hose at your bike at all. bring the hose end over to the bike and just let it pour over.
does a 7 spd derailleur work with a 8 spd brifter on a 8 spd cassette?
>>949404
No. Never.
>>949405
why not?
>>949404
Shift levels always have to be paired with the correct derailleur.
There are a FEW rare cases where you can use a mismatched cassette with matched derailleur & shifter, but it's usually a bad idea and always less than perfect.
There is a product that lets you mismatch certain components called the Jtek Shiftmate.
>>949406
Think about it man.
>7 speed Rd
>Not 8
There's a reason you fucking downtube, the deraliur could potentially not reach. In addition to the shifting being all fucked.
If you're really so horny to use odds and ends for your drive train it would be a better idea to use bar end shifters or downtube shifters if you have them and only use friction shifting.
>>949406
Because geometry.
http://blog.artscyclery.com/science-behind-the-magic/science-behind-the-magic-drivetrain-compatibility/
>>949412
i am using RSX Brifters
>>949339
>Raleigh m50
Pretty basic rigid MTB. You're not going to be comfortable riding very large jumps and drop offs, but if you have the skill for it there's no reason you couldn't hit smaller ones.
>>949404
Ignore the previous anon, this will work fine. All Shimano rear derailers (except for modern dynasis and vintage Dura Ace 7400) use the same shift ratio, so they're interchangeable as long you're not running a wide 7-speed chain through through a 10-speed derailer which will be too narrow.
I have a question regarding ti saddle rails.
My saddle keels slipping backwards and on longer rides it really is uncomfortable riding with your saddle position all fucked.
Pic somewhat related
>mfw
Why does some faggot keep trying to force this retarded downtube meme?
>>949424
The problem is more likely something to do with your saddle clamp than the TI rails
>>949424
Tighten it more retard
>>949418
>shift ratios
got any links for me? i'd like to read more about it, i still don't get tiny bits like a derailleur travels across the length of a hub/casette and actually doesn't care if its 8 or 11 speed as long as the indexing is down by the shifter itself, but, i dunno if 11 spd hubs have different lengths than a 8 spd, and therefore i'd like to research about the shift ratios
>>949428
Possibly?
My saddle is a selle Italia flite with the stupid steel rail angle. I've tried this saddle on several seatposts but because of the rails I have to tilt the saddle so high just to get it level.
>>949434
Steep*
>select all images with trains
>>949418
>Ignore the previous anon, this will work fine
Dude, no. Nonono.
He wants to mismatch brifters and derailleur.
It will NOT work fine, because the ratchets in 7 and 8 speed brifters pull different amounts of cable.
>>949431
Here you go, this page actually goes beyond just Shimano and even talks about mixing different brands, but contains the info you need:
http://www.cyclinguk.org/cyclists-library/components/transmission-gears/derailleur-gears/shimergo
>>949437
Yes, 7 and 8-sp shifters pull different amounts of cable per shift. It would be a problem if he was trying to match a 8-sp shifter and a 7-sp cassette, but as long as he has the matching cassette it doesn't matter what derailer he uses, as long as it's Shimano and not one of the exceptions already mentioned.
>>949418
>rd-4700
>rd-5800
>rd-6800
>rd-9000
>not modern
>>949424
>I have a question
>doesn't ask a question
I put thinner tires on my MTB.
I'm I faster on 28 wheels than on 26 wheels with the same power input. Consider same tire width arround 40.
What's better for a noob to mountain biking: platforms or clips?
I run clips on my commuter.
>>949472
Whichever you feel more confident with.
>>949472
Depends on preference and what type of riding. As a general rule I'd say start platform for anything intense (dh, enduro, etc), whereas with mellow xc it doesn't make much difference.
>>949520
>you're a
Kiddo, give it a rest with this. Nobody is going to adopt your manufactured buzzword. Because it is NOT CLEVER in any way.
Not only is it not clever, it is completely retarded.
We're all just filtering your posts.
>>949533
Downtuber detected.
How come bikes have downtubes but don't have uptubes?
>>949562
>>949519
Why? Because it's better for when i mess up and fall?
Because my intuition kind of told me the opposite; the more gnarly stuff is when i want my foot more secured to the pedal.
>>949575
Yeah, easier to bail. But there's advantages to both of course. Whatever you are comfortable with.
>>949575
I don't have much experience with "gnarly stuff" as far as MTB goes - I prefer techy XC - but I think the situations where you bail in enduro/downhill, you often already have a foot down and lose your rear wheel. In that situation it's really hard to unclip your other foot.
If you're riding that stuff it's probably on a full-suspension bike anyway, which helps keep your feet in contact with the pedals in addition to your tires in contact with the ground.
>>949577
On a tangent: what does "techy XC" mean to you? And what's "gnarly" to you?
>>949579
Not him, but
>techy XC
15 foot cliffs
>gnarly
40 foot cliffs
>>949579
Technical XC, to me, is riding trails with a focus on tackling terrain features and stopping or looping back to attempt things which I've previously had difficulty with. In my case this is honestly pretty humble stuff - I'm happy when I can clean a new rock garden.
Dunno if I can put a definition on gnarly really. Anything above 25mph and/or involving serious or life-threatening injury as a potential consequence?
>>949590
Then i was thinking more techy when i said gnarly. Pretty much the only experience i have off-road is with a rigid hybrid. Rock and root gardens seemed plenty gnarly to me.
>>949594
gnarly and techy mean literally the same thing
>>949595
Not to everyone, apparently.
>>949298
Frankenbike
>>949594
Well, to come full circle, clipless pedals are nice to have when doing rock gardens. I don't think many XC dudes ride pegged flats, but I could be mistaken.
My bike wheels dont seem to be spinning straight. When I look at them from a profile and spin them, there is some wobble as it rotates.
Already checked to see if they were fully in dropouts, check. How big of an issue is it to continue to ride? How much would it cost to fix?
>>949606
Unless there's actual rim damage it'll probably cost you 10-20 bucks to take them to a bike shop and have them trued. As far as continuing to ride on them, it's better to have them trued sooner rather than later, but if the wobble is minor than they're likely safe to ride - impossible to say for certain without actually seeing how bad they are though.
>>949606
>Already checked to see if they were fully in dropouts
How sure are you?
>How big of an issue is it to continue to ride?
Depends. How much wobble is there?
>How much would it cost to fix?
Depends on how fucked up your wheels are, and on what sort of wheels they are, and on how much your LBS charges for the service.
The absolute best thing to do would be to find a bike co-op and have them teach you to build & true wheels.
>>949606
>How big of an issue is it to continue to ride?
Could be a big issue if there's a lot of wobble. That's either a sign of a wheel that is losing spoke tension, or a very damaged rim/hub. Either will lead to some sort failure eventually.
If there's only a very slight wobble on a new wheel it could be from the nipples and spoke elbows seating in the hub/rim. Wheels often need a second truing after a second break-in period. Either problem needs fixing.
How much it costs to fix depends on what needs fixing. Just a quick truing and retensioning of the wheel will cost you 20-30 €. Rebuilding the wheel with a new hub/rim and possibly spokes will cost slightly more, plus the parts.
>>949610
>after a brief break-in period
>>949520
Wat. Of course not who the fuck does that shit?
Currently I have an alu 90s rode bike frame can I stretch the frame to fit an 11 spd wheels set (i.g. mavic aksiums). I can get the wheel set for a deal for about 150USD with less than 50 miles on them
>>949635
11spd wheels use the same 130mm spacing as older 7/8/9/10spd wheels. However, I'd stay away from Mavic wheels because of their retarded freewheel bearing design. Unless you realy love relubing and replacing freehubs, or never coast. You can get 11spd Shimano RS-21/31 sets for that, new. They're much longer lasting because of ball bearing and steel freehub, better rolling (when loaded) thanks to cup/cone design provided you adjust the hubs properly, and the extra weight is all in the hubs where it doesn't affect handling.
I have a raleigh built triumph tha'ts missing a crank.
I have a sram crank with a gxp bottom bracket lieing around.
could I get rid of the old slightly grimy bb and but in the gxp ?
the bb should be bsa , right ?
>>949646
huh, thanks. though out of convenience I still going to buy the mavics and just deal with the maintenance costs. Shouldn't be too bad since dry weather is rolling around again
>>949635
7 speed road is 126mm. 8 speed and above is 130mm. Many old cannondales etc were 127.5 so they could go either way. You can't permanently cold set it but if you can pry it open to fit a 130mm wheel with minimal finger strength then it's probably not too bad. It will stress the frame but you can probably get away with it. Still not really a great idea though. If it takes significant force then it's definitely not smart.
>>949041
What kind of bike should a significantly over weight person look into? Asking for a friend :(
So I kinda got angry trying to remove a stuck seat post on this old steel 10 speed and poked a hole through the frame like pic related. Is it now a death trap to ride or should I just not stress it too much?
I have no access to welding equipment btw
>>949677
It's dead, Jim.
>>949677
u fucking wot mate. u drilled a hole ?? how does this even happen?? pics??
>>949696
took a chisel to the remains of the alu post inside the tube after I had already tried with a hacksaw blade. It was completely fused in there and I accidentally bashed it straight through the side.
no pics atm
How important is the seat tube even structurally? I think imma cover it up best I can and just take it easy riding
Is there any reason, out of "muh retro", to create frames with this geometry for touring/commuting bikes?
>>948596
>>948606
>>948645
>>948744
>>949121
>>949125
>>949181
>>949214
>>949215
Why shouldn't one choose this geometry over the previous ones?
>>948714
Previously I posted a bike like pic related which is marketed & sold as a "mobility" or "urban" bike by this south american brand, which I understand as "good for commuting or roaming around the city". This is not the only bike with this geometry marketed for urban use around here.
What exactly is wrong with it aside from having no slick tires and cheap suspension / disk brakes by default?
Anyone have any opinions on the Catlike Mixino or Catlike helmets in general? Looking to upgrade to a new road helmet from my cheapish Specialized helmet that's getting old and has taken a few drops.
>>949710
(cont.)
Non-shit bikes marketed for MTB use come with Acera and up components here. The budget ones come with mixed Acera/Altus groupset. While "mobility", "urban", "city", "fitness" bikes come with mixed Alivio groupset at it's best (I'm not talking about internationally famous brands).
Particularly in the northern states, the roads aren't really well kept due to a combination of lack of money, unskillful administration and corruption. Plus it is easy to find roads with rocky pavements, particularly in old cities and within townhouses. Not to mention neighborhoods with no pavement at all.
New to locks. Need a lock. What lock do you recommend and what is g standard
Does rain lowers the rolling resistances or something?
I swear to Gods I've rode in rain multiple times and been faster each time than on dry and with sun.
What the hell is going on.
>>949718
KRYTPONITE U-LOCK
>>949674
Some kind of hybrid/fitness bike with a step-thru frame. Something like the Specialized Roll or Trek Verve, most brands have at least one bike of this kind.
>>949719
Unless you're getting measurable speed increases it's probably just psychological - bad weather and darkness can make you feel faster because you can't see distant landmarks that allow you to gauge your speed more accurately.
>>949718
Kryptonite or Abus u-lock, plus a cable lock for your wheels if they have quick release skewers.
>>949718
Where do you live? The U-Lock is the gold standard and they'll offer up to a $1500 insurance coverage should your bike be stolen if you register it within like 15 days of purchase.
That said, if you live somewhere with a higher crime rate or big city and want to lock it up all day or over night, an angle grinder will cut right through it.
Right now I'm reading up on the OnGuard 8020 Mastiff and the 8016 Beast for best protection and like a $2000 and $5000 coverage.
>>949724
I am in Columbia , MISSOURI. Huge cyclist and recreation bike city with the uni right there. How about the ABUS mini u lock ?
>>949707
coupla hose clamps an some duct tape she'll b right m8
>>949726
I keep hearing good stuff about ABUS. You could get a 9 or 10 rated Kryptonite but it's going to be heavy. I'm not sure what the weight of the ABUS is but they get good reviews.
For those of you who wear gloves, I've always used fingerless mitts but thinking about picking up a pair of full gloves but just wondering if they are going to be too warm for the summer.
What's your opinion? Fingerless or full?
I got a flat on my schwalbe marathon plus last night and patched it, but found out the sidewall is compromised and it's now bulging pretty badly.
I'm going to replace it with a larger marathon plus in the next few weeks. In the meantime, would it be better to run a specialized nimbus armadillo 700x28c or a cheap $15 walmart kenda 700x35c on the rear?
>>949736
don't even really know why i'm asking that, but i've just never used either as a rear before. the cheap kenda is currently my front btw. it seems wrong to have a 35cm front with a 28cm rear though, doesn't it.
>>949737
Yes, it could affect your steering. If you're gonna run different tire sizes, it's always advisable to have the bigger one on the rear.
Those Kenda tires are bulky as fuck, awful rolling resistance but you'll hardly ever get any punctures.
>>949738
I already have both those tires, I'll be spending money on the Schwalbe ASAP now that I've thought about it.
The nimbus armadillo is definitely the superior tire and it's brand new, the cheap kenda is my current front and my friend who lives 100+ miles from a bike shop bought it at walmart when he was borrowing this bike. I like to have the better tire as the rear, but it seemed wrong to have the 28 as rear with a 35 in front.
>>949739
Thanks, I guess I've always just intuitively known that, but never looked it up.
I signed up for a bike and brew event. What am I in for?
>>949765
Lots of slightly intoxicated people operating vehicles they probably shouldn't even be allowed to use while sober.
If seen a lot of hate for these tires on /n/, but they've been good to me. No idea how many miles I have on them at this point, but have never had as much as a puncture. I'm only replacing because of pic related.
Will probably replace with more of the same unless you can convince me there is a better tire for 25 USD.
>>949770
>in before valve too long
this is my preference, not a mistake
>>949770
I had good luck with them but I really like my panaracers and ruffy tuffy's now.
But for $25 a tire, I'd say stick with the zaffiros
Is there anything i can do on my 29er to make my chainstays feel "shorter"? or on any bike for that matter?
assuming money is no object
inb4 new frame/bike
>>949774
>assuming money is no object
Get a new bike
>>949768
Then it's a good thing they won't be sober.
>>949772
I should rephrase my question, because I don't mind spending a bit more if it is worth it.
What advantage does a more expensive tire give? Does it feel better, last longer?
>>949770
The main problem with zaffiros is that you can get much better tires for the same price, even within the brand. Try Vittoria Rubino Pros next time. They're my some of my favorite training tires.
>>949735
It's a matter of preference. I hate heat (I wear shorts all winter, even when it's well below freezing) and even I am fine with full finger gloves during summer. I use the Giro Bravos (they come in finger and fingerless versions), 10/10 would recommend. I have the finger and fingerless versions of the Bravo and I find the finger version to be more comfortable.
>>949718
Kryptonite u-lock or Abus folding lock. Folding lock can easily lock the frame and both wheels, plus they are much less common, so thieves are experienced at breaking u-locks and have tools for it, but they don't know how best to break folding locks. That's a big advantage of foldys.
Here is my lock http://www.amazon.com/Abus-Bordo-Ecolution-Bicycle-Folding/dp/B00A0NFHJG/
I love it.
Also check out http://www.sheldonbrown.com/lock-strategy.html
And any time you're leaving your bike for long in a high-risk area, use two locks. The second one can just be a cheap shit-tier cable lock, the point is that thieves won't bother if they have to break two locks, they'll move on to a different bike. The cable lock can also secure the front wheel if you're using a u-lock to lock only the frame and rear wheel
>>949713
Not familiar with those, but I love Giro helmets. Your best bet is go to a LBS or sporting goods store and try some helmets on, get whatever is most comfortable.
>>949710
The bike in your picture is a shit-tier "mountain bike", more like sidewalk bike marketed as mountain bike. It has mountain bike geometry which is not ideal for riding on pavement. Suspension in general is bad for pavement, cheap suspension is bad for everything. Nothing wrong with discs though, they're better than rim brakes in almost all situations. If you want a bike that you'll use for both touring and commuting, I highly recommend the Salsa Vaya. The Surly Long Haul Trucker (or Surly Disc Trucker, same thing but with disc brakes) would be a reasonable choice as well, but it's designed for heavy long-distance touring, it won't be as fun/snappy/fast for commuting.
>>949674
A hybrid (the good kind, see pic related) or a used 90s rigid mountain bike (probably best replacing the tires with semislicks). For the latter, >>>/n/bbg would be happy to help.
Some good hybrids to consider are Marin Muirwoods 29er, Kona Dew Plus, Trek FX, Specialized Sirrus, and Cannondale Bad Boy.
If he's really heavy, then he might be best off with double walled rims, because fat people have a tendency to break wheels with single walled rims. That's only if he's really fat though. If he's just a bit overweight then it doesn't matter much.
>>949770
$25-30/tire will get you Rubino Pros
A huge jump up in quality/performance from the Zaffiro
>>949774
Take your frame to a welder. Have him shorten the framestays.
>>949778
>Does it feel better, last longer?
Depends. Some high-end tires are really lightweight and fast, designed for racing. If anything they'll be even less durable than cheaper tires. Other high-end tires are built to be really durable and long-lasting. It really depends on the tire. One advantage of high end tires is that they often have a higher thread count (measured in tpi) which (I believe; I'm not an expert on tires) means they are lighter weight, they have less rolling resistance, and they are tougher (against punctures and such). More expensive doesn't always mean higher tpi though, so make sure to look at the specs if high tpi is a priority for you.
>>949784
Most of the bike shops around here seem to limit my choices between a few cheaper Giros, a ton of Specialized, Bell, and Bontranger helmets.
I wish I could find somewhere that sold Catlike stuff.
>>949735
You can get fingered gloves that are very breathable. Look out for mesh/netting on the sides of the fingers, holes in the palms, and a nice breathable back of hand. Thereare such a things as "summer" gloves.
Personally, I find any padding makes me too warm. Also, be wary of the soft thumb wipe; if the fabric isn't very absorbent, it gets absolutely sodden very quickly leaving a very cold and uncomfortable feeling.
>>949774
>Is there anything i can do on my 29er to make my chainstays feel "shorter"? or on any bike for that matter?
Sorta?
For the purposes of doing manuals and such, a longer stem theoretically provides a longer lever, but this means you'll have to move the bars more to achieve the same degree of lift-off. A shorter stem means that you can manual with less bar movement, but you don't have as much leverage. Most people prefer a very short stem or direct mount.
Reducing the weight of the front portion of the bike will help a bit. Lighter tire, lighter wheel, lighter fork.
>>949796
There really isn't much that is as sad as watching someone continually attempt to force a meme which is never going to catch on.
I have an older bike with some rust on it. I plan on taking off the rust spots with aluminum foil, coating over it with nail polish, then finishing with a clear coat.
What I want to ask about is what happens after that.
Would it be worth it to wax my frame? I'm not too terribly worried about rust since I store it indoors (all rust is from the previous owner), but it keeps picking up nicks in the paint.
I need a new bottom bracket, current one says 68/108, ISIS cranks. What are my options?
>inb4 muslims
>>949784
I don't understand. The image in the post fits this definition of city bike:
>Similar to the commuter bike, the city bike is more optimized for urban commuting.[2] Unlike the European city bike, it has mountain bike heritage, gearing, and strong yet lightweight frame construction.[2][5][6][7] It usually features mountain bike-sized (26-inch or 660-millimeter) wheels, a more upright seating position, and fairly wide 1.5–1.95-inch (38–50 mm) heavy belted tires designed to withstand road hazards commonly found in the city, such as broken glass.
If city bikes are made for urban commuting, why aren't city bikes commuter bikes? This all sounds like mental masturbation to me.
>>949819
>What are my options?
Get one exactly like it. 68 is 68mm BB housing, 108 is 108mm axle length and ISIS is axle type. This should work:
http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/se/en/fsa-platinum-isis-bottom-bracket/rp-prod2962
>>949797
Thank you. That makes sense. Shortest non direct mount stems ive seen are 40mm. Cant seem to find any shorter
>>949820
The point is that the bike you pictured is not good for ANYTHING. It's one step up from no bike at all. It has mountain bike geometry and suspension which are bad for urban riding. It has semislicks which are bad for mountain biking, and the fact that all the components are low-end furthers that it won't perform well as a mountain bike. Shit-tier suspension, shit-tier saddle, probably shit-tier drivetrain components.
It's hardly better than a walmart BSO. It will be shit for literally every type of cycling. The people that refer to it as a "hybrid city bicycle" are idiots. Well, in a way it's true, because that bike is too shitty for mtbing or serious road cycling or anything else. But the geometry and suspension are retarded for a city bike.
>why aren't city bikes commuter bikes
They are literally the same thing.
>>949797
Also, should i keep my stem at the top of my stack height or should i slam it assuming i get a 40mm stem
>>949821
Thank you. I spoke to 2 mechanics and they both expressed concern about the durability of ISIS BBs, are they just trying to get me to buy new cranks?
>>949831
Slam it if you want to make /n/ happy
>ALWAYS SLAM YOUR STEM
>>949833
Yes for road bikes i understand that is what you /n/iggers love. In fact my road bike stem is slammed. But im trying to be a faggot and treat my xc bike like a all mountain ht. Im an idiot.
>>949832
LBS employee here. If you aren't putting crazy miles on it, with tons of tourqe. No problem running it. Its the marketing shill that screams "replace replace replace"
my 2 cents.
>>949824
So if I were to build a commuter from scratch should I pick a speed/road bike frame then?
According to your definition commuters don't exist here and importing is out of question (1 USD = 4 local currency).
>>949832
When ISIS was new all cartridge BB were crap. It took a while for them to become reliable. Square-taper has been along for ages with a cup and cone design, and the bad reputation never rubbed off. It did on ISIS though, giving some the impression that it specifically had a problem, rather than the immature cartridge technology in general. It stuck.
tl:dr - A modern ISIS BB should not be any better or worse than a square-taper cartridge, and those can last for ages.
>>949845
Go for something like this.
But that other guy is wrong about mountain bike geometry being particularly bad for urban riding. One of the /n/ approved standard recommendations is rigid mountain bike with slick tyres.
>>949855
The rigid 90's mountainbike was nothing like the slack geo, long top tube mountainbike of today. Pic related.
The modern day equivalent geometry-wise is the hybrid. Larger tyres, same-ish angles, shorter stem and longer TT to avoid toestrikes.
>>949858
Yeah, you're absolutely right. And yet still wrong about mountain bike geo being bad for urban riding. If it's built for light trails it will handle urban commute equally fine. Stick some slicks on an XC and lock out the fork and you've got a perfectly decent bike for riding around town.
>>949855
90s rigid mtbs are good for commuting, partly because cheap and durable, partly because geo is different than modern mtbs. Modern mtb geo is shit for commuting.
>>949845
A road bike frame would be better than a mountain bike frame, but ideal (imo) would be an in between, such as cyclocross or hybrid. (again, there are good hybrids and bad hybrids, see >>949786)
>>949861
No, you're a fucking downtube. Modern mtb geo is not good for commuting.
Still super new to bikes here
I wanna get a 7 speed, so I could use a better shifter set (getting tired of these old thumb shifters and they're just as pricey to replace of triggers). Could I just put a 7s freewheel on my 5 speed with new shifters? I've measured everything out and it looks like it should all fit in.
>>949970
Pretty sure you would also need a new derailleur as well.
In my opinion as long as you're going with garbage-tier shifters you may as well get twist-shifters.
>>949970
I'm not sure if 7 speed freewheels and 5 speed freewheels use the same style hub. According to http://sheldonbrown.com/freewheels.html
it looks like 5sp and 7sp freewheels use different hubs (120mm and 126mm respectively). But I'm not sure if that's always the case or even if I'm interpreting that right. If it does work out for you to use the 7sp freewheel on your hub and you have enough clearance between the dropouts, you will likely also need a new rear derailleur. The derailleur, shifter, and cassette cog spacing all come together to be compatible, so if you change two, you *might* have to change the other. If you care about the details, it's all covered in http://blog.artscyclery.com/science-behind-the-magic/science-behind-the-magic-drivetrain-compatibility/
You also *might* have to replace the chain. 6/7/8 speed chains work on 5 speeds, so if you've got one of those you'll be fine re-using it (assuming it's not stretched), but if you've got one of the wider chains then it won't work with a 7 speed freewheel.
>>949986
I totally forgot about the hub size! Yeh that's a deal breaker, unless I find an old 7 speed at a thrift store and steal the wheels off it, I don't feel like spending another $80 on shit tier wheels, might as well buy a new bike at that point.
My detailer shouldn't be a problem though, from what I've heard unless it's a a huge step up, like a 5 to a 9, it shouldn't be too bad
>>949849
>>949832
The problem with ISIS isn't the cartridge bearing style (square-taper cartridges worked great from their introduction) it's that the bearings inside an ISIS cartridge had to be smaller to fit around a wider spindle, and those small bearings wear out much more quickly.
As previous anon says, there's nothing wrong with running ISIS cranks, as long as you're okay with replacing BB's more often than any other system.
>>949810
Wax just adds a little more shine, and a tiny little extra bit of protection on top of paint. It's great to use but it's not going to magically prevent paint nicks.
>>949986
>>949973
>>949970
If the hub is 126mm wide it'll take a 7-sp freewheel, if 120 it won't.
But previous posters are wrong in saying you'll definitely need a new derailer. Your old one will work fine as long as you're sticking with friction shifters, and assuming that your new freewheel doesn't have a much larger low gear than the old one (in which case you might need a derailer with a longer cage to compensate for the additional length of chain you'd need for the larger gear).
>>949970
Are you planning to stick with friction shifters or change to indexed?
>>949997
they are indexed, im guessing thats an issue
>>950037
Only insofar as that means there's a higher chance you'll have to replace the rear derailleur if you go to 7sp
i've got a pair of DT Swiss R24 wheels and they were sold, at least according to the seller, to be compatible with 8 speed casette up to 11 casette, it even came with a spacer but i lost that shit so now i wanna know if i need a spacer if i want to fit a 8 spd casette and if where do i get one?
>>950050
You don't NEED a spacer but it will make dialing in your derailleur a bit harder...
>>950052
harder like what?
>>950054
Harder like the cassette will shift back and forth on the cassette body more or less at random while the drivetrain is under load.
>>950058
yea thats ghostshifting and why does it ghostshift on a 11 speed hub if its made to be compatible with a 8 or 9 speed drivetrain?
>>950050
If you go to a LBS they might have a spare one laying around
>>950062
thanks, but don't they get sold by shimano? if so, mind sharing the modelname/number?
>>950061
Could be a lot of things.
Can't really web-diagnose.
>>950065
its not like you should webdiagnose a problem that didn't even occur yet, i just wanna know WHY someone claims that a 11 speed frehub with a 8 speed casette is suddenly ghostshifting
>>950066
because it needs a spacer...
>>950068
fuck nigga what did you smoke?
>>950063
Here's the search results for 'cassette spacer' on QBP. You need to work for a LBS in order to order from QBP or even do searches on their website, but this can give you an idea of the manufacturers and product names, then you can either find them elsewhere, or go to the LBS with the QBP item number and tell them what you want
>>950070
looks great, thanks dude
![IMG_20160429_020520[1].jpg](https://i.imgur.com/tkz2ekW.jpg "IMG_20160429_020520[1].jpg")
Just got my first bike today, from craigslist for $50 bucks. Thanks for the help finding her /bbg/. I believe she's gonna be great.
Gonna take it to a nearby bike shop/co-op tomorrow to get it looked over, tuned up, and get some basic tools.
Yes, it didn't come with pedals, picked up some at Sports Authority on the way home. The bearings on them feel kinda shitty, is there some break in period on these?
>>949720
I was getting kinda less tired at higher speeds, but I guess this could've been psychological. And I don't like riding in rain.
Welp.
>>950138
Did you buy really cheap plastic pedals? Because really cheap plastic pedals come with crappy bearings and suck even when new.
>>950144
http://www.sportsauthority.com/DIAMONDBACK-Resin-ATB-Bicycle-Pedals-2-Pack/product.jsp?productId=31186786&cp=712948&parentPage=family
Yes? If they're utter shite and can't be fixed by opening them up and lubing the lubing the berrings correctly, ill just return them.
Still, for now they, as long as they function...
>>950138
Nice old Giant.
Superficially appears to be in good condition.
Seems like a nice first bike - congrats! Enjoy!
>>950159
You should definitely return those and get real pedals. Giant makes some nice platform pedals in the $30 range - bonus points for matching your frame. Wellgo is another common pedal brand which you could check out if you want to spend a little less than that. BMX pedals might be another option and are probably available at a skate shop or something.
>>949312
http://fgts.jp/n/
How often do you usually buy new pedals?
I have an old road bike (1990) and wish to buy a new saddle for it. I'd like the Spoon charge. Will I run into any compatibility issues with the seatpost?
>>950207
i've had the same ones for 4-5 years now.
>>950263
Unlikely
Stem position
40mm stem
29er XC
want it to feel more "agile"
would jumping be easier with the stem slammed or at the top of the steer tube?
>>950277
Slammed stem will make it easier to bring the bars into your hips/center of mass.
You can't completely fuck your fit for pedaling seated, though. It's a balancing act.
>>950282
Gotcha, thanks for the tip i will keep that in mind.
>>949275
It needs the specific Hone hub. it has a longer skewer for the derailleur to screw on.
>>949298
also freakbike
>>950174
is there such a thing as cheap, light weight plastic pedals with good bearings? every brand I've shopped weigh a crap ton
>>950312
No.
>>950312
Why do you want plastic so much?
>>950318
Better question would be why he cares about the weight of pedals when he's speccing out an ancient rigid steel MTB.
Does anyone have any experience with Kenda Khan Kevlar? I need a smooth rolling 26 because the nearest trails are all at least 20 miles away. Any alternative sub-20$ suggestions? post picture of thread if you can
best resource/tutorial on how to straighten a bicycle wheel ? I can do it, but think I could always learn something new and do better.
>>950370
Sheldon Brown
I read in this thread that mountain bike suspension is bad for pavement, is there a reason or is this opinion? Does it have to do with the springrates? Or is it just overkill because the tires can flex enough as it is?
>>950422
It's bad because it saps power from your legs every time you pedal. Of course if it has a lockout system it's a non-issue.
>>950138
When installing pedals, you want to put grease on the pedal axle. Not that that will affect the bearings, just letting you know since you put them on yourself and may be unaware. As far as I know there shouldn't be much if any break-in period for the pedals, but I'm not positive.
>>949256
nigga how many fucking kids do u have, a chain aint fitting inside no jam or pb jar
>>950138
what >>950446 said is usually true.
See if you can pop off the end cap on the outside of the pedal and see if there is a nut or something in there that will allow you to adjust how tight the bearings are. I have had to do this on some $5 kids bike pedals before, and usually if it feels shitty and rough, the bearings are too tight.
Some models of cheap pedals don't have any such adjustment capabilities because everything is permanently inside the pedal body with no way to get in.
>>950449
There is. Don't have the correct socket in order to try and loosen it up, will run to aco and give that a shot.
Went on my first real bike ride today to get a quote to have someone look at my bike, and inform me if any there are any standout problems that need to be immediately addressed.
They were busy, and wouldn't have been able to get my back bike back to me, but they were going to charge 40 bucks for a tuneup, they said they should be able to look at it and get me out the door on Monday.
I know from my ride that the breaks are out of alignment, the derailleur needs abit of tweaking, and I need to clean the old grease of everything and give it a fresh coat of lube. Those are all things I can do myself though.
I just wanted to know the condition the drive train, and if any components have been worn to the point that they warrant replacement.
Holy fuck i'm out of shape.
>>949418
can you tell me any more? whats the deal with the geometry, is it cx? can i convert it to anything worthy
>>950445
The regular sized pb jars I see at most supermarkets in the US will fit any bicycle chain unless it's one of those long ones you see on some tandems or recumbent bikes. This might be different if you shop exclusively at gas stations or some shit.
>>950462
It's an ordinary rigid MTB like any other 90's style rigid MTB, fine for general trail riding and a good candidate for a commuting bike if you want to sit somewhat upright. Converting it to drop bars and trying to set it up like a cyclocross bike or isn't going to be worthwhile unless you're too short to fit on a standard cyclocross frame, the biggest challenge you'd have would be finding a stem long and tall enough to make the geometry work with drop bars - so I would advise against buying it if the flat bar setup isn't what you want.
sup y'all,
I'm tall and don't want to spend the dosh on a bike I won't ride a lot. Moving to NC area soon and just want something to dick around town in and maybe some day or overnight trips innawoods.
Found pic related- am I going in the right direction? asking less than 100 bucks but can probably talk em down even more. Worth it?
What's the actual way to adjust cones on a classic wheel? I mean
>Pull axle out, regrease everything
>Put axle back, then cones, then washers
>Tighten with fingers, then adjust with wrench
>When you're done, hold one cone and lock it down with the locknut
>Do the same on the other side
And after this there is ALWAYS some play that results in wobbling no matter what. Am I actually supposed to find a third hand to keep both cones locked at the same time? The one rare time this didn't happen it was quite a bit hard to spin. It did spin because of grease but you could always hear some faint gritting noise in the background (front wheel).
>>950485
yea dude that looks pretty decent
>>950489
Too loose and you'll have play (wobble). Too tight and you'll have roughness (wheel won't spin freely). You need to find the perfect medium in between where there's no play and no roughness. If such a medium does not exist, even after you've cleaned and re-greased everything, then it's probably because your cones and/or hub and/or bearings are pitted/worn and have to be replaced.
Check Sheldon Brown and Park Tool if you're not completely clear on the adjustment procedure.
Cone/locknut adjustment is one of the trickier things imo. I'm a lbs mechanic and of all the basic/frequent repairs, it's the one I still have the most trouble with.
>>950489
When you tighten the cone against the locknut sometimes it backs the cone out from the hub into the locknut, rather than the other way around. When this happens, the solution is to start with the cone adjusted just a little tighter than ideal, get the locknut finger tight, then turn the cone so that it backs out to the right position.
Also what >>950494
said is spot on.
>>950496
You're supposed to put the axle in a padded vise when you do cones.
>>950494
How is it difficult at all if you work in a shop and have a vise with axle grips?
>>950489
Yes you are. Realistically, you can't control whether the cone backs out, or the lock nut goes down without holding the axle in place. The axle should be a little loose anyways though, because using a quick release will tighten up the bearings some
>>950502
Ignore this guy. You are not "supposed" to use a vice.
>The axle should be a little loose anyways though
If by "be a little loose" you mean "have a little play" then no it shouldn't. The qr will very minimally tighten it, but if there's play, closing the qr probably won't eliminate the play. The only time closing the qr comes into play is if it's very close to being rough, then closing the qr can make it rough, but if it's half way between having play and being rough, then it'll stay fine with the qr closed.
>>950517
You are a literal retard. Yes, you should be using a vise to hold the axle. Park tool says you can use the dropout for this, but there's a risk of bending the dropouts this way since the wheel is a pretty big lever.
Sheldon says you should adjust cup and cone hubs to be slightly loose when the QR is not tight.
Educate yourself.
>>950527
>Yes, you should be using a vise to hold the axle.
Most people don't have a vice at home dumbass. If you have one go ahead and use it, it can make it easier, but don't act like that's the "correct" way or that people without a vice shouldn't make their own adjustments. And you're not "supposed" to do it in the dropouts either. If you can't adjust hubs without a vice/dropouts then you're a shit-tier mechanic.
>Sheldon says you should adjust cup and cone hubs to be slightly loose when the QR is not tight.
He probably meant on the loose end of the in-between medium, while still having no play and no roughness, as in just barely tight enough to have no play.
>>950528
>Most people don't have a vice at home dumbass. If you have one go ahead and use it, it can make it easier, but don't act like that's the "correct" way or that people without a vice shouldn't make their own adjustments. And you're not "supposed" to do it in the dropouts either. If you can't adjust hubs without a vice/dropouts then you're a shit-tier mechanic.
>being a defensive shitty lbs wrench
>complain you still have trouble with it
>say ur doing it wrong when someone tells you the proper way to deal with axle spin
Sure, you can do it without a vise. It doesn't help anon asking the question if he should have a 3rd hand, which is yes, and goes to show how shit of a mechanic you are when you refuse to do it the easy and accurate way
>He probably meant on the loose end of the in-between medium, while still having no play and no roughness, as in just barely tight enough to have no play.
>No binding with no play is the proper adjustment for solid-axle hubs, but if you have quick-release hubs, there is an additional, complicating factor. When you tighten the quick-release lever, it tends to compress the axle just a little bit. If the adjustment was just right with the wheel on your bench, it will be too tight when the wheel is installed and the quick release tightened. For this reason, quick-release hubs should be adjusted so that there is a very sight amount of play in the axle when the wheel is not installed. This play should disappear when the quick release is tightened to the dropouts.
Unless you're using the special Sheldy tool that preloads the axle, but you aren't.
Honestly, LBS shills are some of the worst pretentious people on earth, who think they have special skills and how someone not a shop mechanic can't possibly do their job better than them, not realizing what they do isn't skilled labor, it's menial labor.
>>950496
>>950502
>>950494
Got it to spin while putting veeery little resistance and some really unnoticeable wobble. Haven't hooked it back yet, but the problem was that basically my treshold for locking down was way too high, I was supposed to start considering the locknut from screwing the cone so hard you wouldn't believe shit will spin, then lock and it will actually spin fine. It's not perfect but it's way better than before.
As for the third hand, I do feel like agreeing because that's how I adjusted the back wheel once, but I thought it was just a coincidence. To me that's just a result of the overall cone system being absolutely fucking shit. At least on the bottom bracket you first lock one side tight, then adjust the other, and there's no risk for the axle to slip off. Thanks for the overall input, I'll take note.
Now, on an unrelated note: once someone sanded the spokes with very thin metal sandpaper, there's no turning back rust-wise, yes? I mean, you go out twice and they get brown as all hell, not sure if it's dirt of rust, but if it's the latter then it's the craziest fast rust I've ever seen.
>>950485
shogun is a cool brand
This bike looks tall
My main concern is the sag in the chain. The rear derailleur should be pulling the chain enough to remove that sag
You're probably looking at a $20 replacement. Microshit (microshift) rear derailleur would be the cheapest replacement and they actually work great. You'll probably need a new chain too ($8).
The brakes are cantilever. Weak if you want to carry weight.
The brake levers are short pull. So if you want full-sized V-brake stopping power for carrying heavy YOU and bags, you will need to shell out for V-brakes ($30) and long-pull brake levers ($20?)
Alternatively, short-pull "mini-V" brakes are a cheap middle ground. $25 for a set
>>950541
>cantilevers
>weak
Let me point at you and laugh
>mini-vs on huge knobby tires
Let me double point at you and laugh
>>950541
>chain sag
It could be because the picture is taken have way through a front shift causing the chain to bind
>>950535
If it's scratched and rusting or something I'd probably hit it with some zinc paint and then finish over that with rust-oleum or some other oil based paint that I have lying around.
![b7070-u7534_orig[1].jpg](https://i.imgur.com/7fmky0t.jpg "b7070-u7534_orig[1].jpg")
>>950429
>>950379
thx guys
And on a side note, anyone heard of Atala Explorer ? Its supposed to be an italian bicycle, but my experience with italian machinery says it'd be shit :D It's in pretty mint condition, I'll fresh it up and sell it with my current oldtimer Puch, and look for a newer 2nd hand hardtail
