/bqg/ - Bike Questions General
So for the summer I'm looking to build up baby's first (decent)roadu racu and I'm looking at groupsets.
I'm thinking of putting the new 4700 set on an older road frame and use it for commuting/light/medium/sanic riding but I'm not sure if I should pull the trigger or just keep my cock in my pants and save for 105.
>>946057
Get SRAM Rival. Similar level to 105 but Shimano is shit.
>>946057
Will you have an 11spd compatible wheelset?
>>946057
the price difference is so minimal, the only reason to go 4700 is if you already have a 10 speed wheelset
First post on /n/.
Recently moved to Colorado, and wanted to get in on the trail biking thing.
What's a good mid-range bike?
>>946068
http://konaworld.com/process_111.cfm
http://konaworld.com/process_134.cfm
>>946069
I'm possibly stupid, but I can't seem to find a quote on the pricing. Thank you for the links nonetheless.
>>946070
That's because that is the manufacturer's website. They don't sell bikes through their website. You have to buy them through a third party such as a local bike shop. See http://konaworld.com/dealers.cfm
>>946070
Also, for a first mountain bike, it is often best to buy used. That way if you change your mind later after you get some experience mtbing and decide you want a completely different bike, you didn't drop a lot of money on a new bike. And really serious mtbers will upgrade their bikes to the newest version pretty frequently so you can get good deals on used mtbs still in good condition.
If you want to go that route, check out http://www.pinkbike.com/buysell/list/?category=2
>>946053
I need to put on a new pedal.
Is a crescent wrench going to fuck it up or do I need one of them special pedal moon moon wrench turny things?
>>946122
You could but I don't think I've seen crescent wrenches that were thin enough for my bikes. My thin automotive wrenches work fine though
>>946122
any 15mm spanner is gonna work but adjustables are too wide, yea
>>946129
I have adjustable that are thin enough, but even if you can find one I recommend you don't use it. If you aren't careful, and you're really torquing it, the little adjuster screw can scratch up your cranks because it sticks out. Also don't use cone wrenches. Too thin. 15mm on pedals is for the amount of torque needed. On cones, 15mm is because the cone has to fit around a 10mm axle.
>>946060
Doublecrap blastig USA USA USA taiwan SHIT shill detected
what are my steel/alloy/aluminum fender options for 26" wheels? if i go with plastic instead it will probably just be the sks longboards but is there anything out there besides the velo-orange ones? honjo and berthoud only make ones for 650b, rigth?
>>946057
105 and new tiagra cost basically the same amount online
I'm looking for a nice set of bike lights. I was looking at some knog lights and liked the lumen output but was turned off by the battery life.
What's your opinion on USB rechargeable lights? Does any company make CR123 powered bike lights?
I want the lightest (new) bike for city commute, it could even be SS (no hills here), what could I get for 1000 USD max? Any material, any brand that is durable. How much more would I need to go sub ~6 Kg?
>>946230
Since it's flat, just build up a single speed cross-check frame with some fatter tires and ride. I mean if it's a commuter, I'd think you'd want the most durable frame and components and if you want new then I wouldn't suggest you settle for a sub-$1000 pre-built bike because it's "light."
If you're going to be riding this every day then get something that is up for a bit of a beating. Are you going to be bringing it inside or locking it up outside?
>>946234
I've been using my SS for 3 years (~10k km max) and apart from a few punctures and a broken flywheel it serves me reasonably well. But it is 10 kg, and sometimes not that comfy to bring up stairs etc (it is stored in a closed space that only I have keys), so figured might as well get a lighter one.
>>946237
I like SS for quality at a lesser price than a 105 equipped bike to put you under $1000. I'm trying to think of some affordable lightweight frames with horizontal dropouts that aren't track geos.
Either that or see if there is a decent fuji offering or something similar with decent components. How light are you wanting to go?
>>946240
the lighter the better, but looking for value honestly. Ideally 6-7 kg would be much better I think, over 30% reduction would be huge I guess. Will check out fujis.
>>946060
I've never tried SRAM. I'm not shillin shimano is just what I'm used to. How does double tap compare?
>>946065
I'm basing the build around the group so I'll find wheels accordingly.
>>946066
I really dont see the difference in 10 or 11 for this build. I'm getting a majority of the other parts from my local co-op.
>>946068
I was the first so fuck off
Also
/bbg/
>>946208
I know but my concern is more for durability than anything else. No I'm not going to beat the ever living shit out of it but I'd like to not feel as bad when I eventually crash and fuck something up.
I want to buy a fixed gear for the first time and I came across "Pure Fix" https://www.purefixcycles.com.
Is this company shit? Not shilling, I'm in serious need of advice. I have no cycle friends to steer me away from garbage.
>>946273
How much are you willing to spend on a bike?
Is a thigh bag a crazy idea for cycling? I do commuting and mtb trail/xc stuff. It'd carry my bare necessities for short rides (gloves, snacks, water, basic tools)
>>946276
It would suck.
>>946273
Yes, just buy a 2011 ish Raleigh fixed gear
They have Reynolds 520 cromo frames and ship with sugino cranks and a Zen messenger chainring which is a cheaper entry lvl version of an njs part
Purefix iirc is hi ten and fly by night
>>946270
>I've never tried SRAM. I'm not shillin shimano is just what I'm used to. How does double tap compare?
SRAM has much more distinct clicks, where Shimano gives you very discrete lever feedback on shifts.
Some people hate that, some don't mind and some like it. I think it's mostly a matter of what you're used to and anyone can easily learn to live with either.
Shifting is exactly the same, except you use the same paddle for everything. Treat it like you would the brake arm on Shimano and you get a downshift. Treat it like the upshift paddle and you get an upshift.
SRAM levers objectively offer better brake leverage from the hoods. If you have giant hands with spidert fingers that might not matter. If you have normal hands it means you can do one- or two finger braking more efficiently, and if you have very small hands (or normal grill) it's crusial.
The hoods are slimmer than Shimano, halfway in-between them and Campagnolo. Matter of preference.
I also don't think you should rule Campagnolo out. Even the cheap groupsets are nice.
Is it wise to buy a used Fizik seat, cheaply? I've never tried them before, and from what i've seen they are love or hate. I'm looking for a specific combination of colors (yellow/black or dark blue/black) and it's the only affordable one that isn't trash tier. Pic related
>>946273
Kona Paddywagon gets my vote. No matter what you get, don't let it be Pure Fix or any other complete shit, high mark-up, fixie only, hipster-tax-as-buziness-plan brand. Get it from a brand that actualy builds real bikes.
>>946290
But the rival cranks are shit
>>946292
Or aliexpress? They have $20 fiziks, are they actually the real thing?
>>946297
Idk what aliexpress is so no, it is used tho. The seat costs ~75 $.
>>946297
Nothing on aliexpress with a brand name is real
>>946290
>SRAM levers objectively offer better brake leverage from the hoods. If you have giant hands with spidert fingers that might not matter. If you have normal hands it means you can do one- or two finger braking more efficiently, and if you have very small hands (or normal grill) it's crusial.
Lol wat. I have 5800 levers and Rival 22 levers, and lack of brake lever ergonomics is one of my biggest complaints. The way the 5800 levers are contoured gives me much better leverage.
>Shifting is exactly the same
No it isn't.
>>946310
damn shame. the reviews on it seems stellar though.
>>946292
>>946297
I just ordered a black/black antares to replace my red/black antares that got ripped to shit on eBay last night.
I know you are looking for yellow/black but check out the black/black. There's some guy selling them who had a lot of 5 of them from bikes he built from a customer who replaced them with his own saddles. $50 + $10 for shipping.
Don't know if they'll still be there by the time I get it next Wednesday, but if they are and you still haven't bought one I can for sure compare it with mine and confirm that it is the real deal.
Or just take the chance for $50. He had a good seller rating, he's in the US, and they looked legit from what I could tell by the photo.
Is it possible to replace a brake cable without taking off bar tape off on shimano tiagra 10speed?
Repost from old thread, didn't realise there was a new one.
How do I stop myself from cross chaining? Does it even matter?
I'm used to riding 1x on my mountain bikes but I've got a new bike with a double. I'll go into the small ring when climbing (usually somewhere in the lowest three in the rear) and big ring when going down hill (likewise using about the highest three gears in the rear) but on flatter ground I'll typically stay in one gear at the front (dependent on if I've just climbed or gone down hill).
I'll shift through the cassette and try and keep track in my mind of where I am and once I get around the middle I'll try shifting the front. The thing is the jump is just too large and screws up my cadence, and that's with a 50/34 which I do believe is what the roadies refer to as compact. Once that happens I'll panic, switch back to whatever chainring I was in before and continue to shift up or down the cassette and cross chain.
Now, thinking about it logically I don't see why it actually matters, after all 1x setups can cover the whole cassette range with no problem (and I haven't noticed any), but then people give others so much shit for doing it that I wonder if there's some reasoning behind it.
>>946339
Just the inner cable? I don't see why that wouldn't be possible, just pull out the old cable and slide the new one through.
>>946323
>Lol wat. I have 5800 levers and Rival 22 levers, and lack of brake lever ergonomics is one of my biggest complaints. The way the 5800 levers are contoured gives me much better leverage.
Leverage is not the shape. It's the leverage. The active lever is longer on Campagnolo/SRAM because the pivot is closer to the top of the hood.
Ergonomics is a matter of preference. Leverage isn't.
Glad you're happy with your shifters, anon.
>>946339
Yeah but assuming you're replacing it because corrosion made the cables hard to maneuver so reusing housing just because you want to cheap out on bar tape (seriously it's $5 a roll) isn't going to make the bike fun to ride
Biking is going to be so much nicer with nice brakes, and a fresh new roll of bar tape
>>946348
Ain't nothing like some brand new tape. Except for maybe some new socks. Then again maybe it brooks or shellacked.
>>946340
Cross-chaining used to be a bigger deal, but with 9+ speed systems, chains are designed to twist and bend more - it's also a bigger problem when you have a larger difference between the chainrings, crosschaining can cause the chain to rub the outer ring or you can end up with lots of slack chain hanging off the bike. You should still avoid crosschaining these days because of the stress it can put on your derailer (can cause damage if your chain is too short, or if the derailer's cage is too short for the gearing you're running.
As for how to stop doing it, that will come with practice.
>>946292
Fizik saddles are generally good. But obviously whether it will work well for you depends on shape/personal riding posture.
>>946339
most bartape can be unrolled/reapplied without tearing at least once, just carefully take it off as far as the lever then wrap it back on.
>>946276
Yep this would suck, a bag in that spot would be banging on your leg with every pedal stroke. A fanny pack, backpack, frame bag, saddle bag, handlebar bag - any of those would be better options.
>>946270
>>946290
SRAM/Campy/Shimano shifters all do essentially the same thing internally, the differences are ergonomic design and the exact hand/finger motions you use - which one you'll like best is totally a matter of preference.
my own personal feelings:
Shimano - my favorite brake lever shape, just feels perfect under the fingers, only real drawback is that they can be hard to shift while wearing thick winter gloves
SRAM - haven't ridden with them much but I work on bikes equipped with these everyday - doubletap feels really fiddly if you're used to other shifters, but obviously riders get used to it
Campy - my favorite by far, though I actually prefer their old hood shape to the new style. The ability to sweep the cassette in either direction is fabulous.
>>946215
Rechargeable lights are so much nicer than anything that requires changing batteries. My personal low-cost setup is to use rechargeable AAAs in an older rear light, and a chinese "solarstorm' headlight. But for something conveniently available shelf, you can't go wrong with any of Planet Bike's rechargeables.
>>946361
>shellacked
oh god no, don't recommend that - it's fine for retro-hipsters and people who already know they prefer their bars to have almost no padding, but otherwise...
>>946363
Oh I wasn't suggesting it. I was just throwing it out there for it being a reason why he might want to avoid removing the tape.
I think shellacked bars look awesome but they aren't my thing.
>>946342
The leverage of the lever doesn't matter as long as it is properly matched to a caliper with an appropriate leverage ratio. It's not an advantage.
Better brake leverage from the hoods means how well you can apply hand leverage to the levers, in order to create braking force. And it's exactly what's implied
>SRAM levers objectively offer better brake leverage from the hoods. If you have giant hands with spidert fingers that might not matter. If you have normal hands it means you can do one- or two finger braking more efficiently, and if you have very small hands (or normal grill) it's crusial.
Nice job backpedaling to lever pull ratio, faggot.
The little rubber grommet that houses the cable for my rear di2 mech as it exits the frame has fallen off. Anyone know where I can pick one up online? All I can find are the shimano gm01/02 grommets which aren't what I need.
>>946385
Are you retarded? You understand what a lever is, don't you? As in leverage?
I'm not suggesting it offers lower cable pull, I'm saying because the pivot point of the physcal l-e-v-e-r is closer to the hood (and your hand) you get better l-e-v-e-r-a-g-e because you reach further down the l-e-v-e-r. Aka handle.
You may like the shape of the Shimano lever, but the shape gives you better ergonomics, not higher leverage.
Manu people with small hands can not reach down far enough on the Shimano levers to apply sufficient braking force.
This can not be worked around by using brakes with mismatched cable pull if that's what you're implying, because the levers would bottom out against the bar.
>hurrdurr backpedaling
Is a Kona Paddy Wagon okay for uphill roads? There's someone selling one for 150USD and it's quite a deal from what i can see but i dont want to buy shit that won't do the job
>>946410
>it's quite a deal from what i can see but i dont want to buy stolen shit
Then don't, anon. It would make you a pretty shitty person.
Other than that you adjust the gearing to the terrain.
>>946403
Except that's not true, and now you're just making shit up. And yes, better ergonomics does mean better leverage when your fingers are sitting in the curve rather than slipping upwards. Seriously, good fucking job talking about 10 year old Shimano levers.
>>946411
well, i didnt thought about that. Thanks anyways
I'm so fucking furious right now dude
I CAN'T GET THIS FUCKING PEDAL OFF
I SPRAYED THE SHIT OUT OF IT WITH PENETRATING OIL AND GOT THE LONGEST THING I COULD FIND TO PUT OVER THE ALLEN WRENCH AND IT WON'T EVEN FUCKING BUDGE
Whichever dickhead decided I need some special $10 wrench to get my god damn pedal off deserves to get lynched holy shit
>>946410
That depends entirely on the gearing, if it's the stock 42:16 then no it won't be any good. In fact no single speed bike will be much good, if it's geared low enough for hills then it'll be shit slow on the flats. Get a bike with multiple gears.
>>946425
>using a meme allen
This is why L-shaped keys exist.
Enjoy using your shitty $10 wrench that's the wrong tool for the job.
>>946425
heat it up using a blow torch, it will come loose.
>>946425
The problem with the hex fitting is that if the axle is weak it expands when you turn the hex. Use a pedal wrench if your pedals accept one.
If not, try heating the crank but not the pedal axle. Be creative.
I assume you've already tried to marinate the fucker in WD40.
>>946427
fuck you fag
>>946275
I really don't want to spend more than $200
>>946425
the left pedal is reverse threaded.
I'm sure you knew that, but you don't mention it in your post, so just covering all our bases here
>>946426
is a 6 speed alright? the road i use every day is not extremely steep (about 15°) but it's long
>>946437
If it's 6 speed it's probably junk, there's little excuse not to have at least an 8 speed cassette these days, or 16 if it's a road bike with a double crankset. The gear range offered will depend on if it's a road or mountain bike cassette (the later being greater) but they should all be adequate, you may just have to stand up to climb hills and be okay with not being able to pedal down hills (so you'll just be coasting).
>>946437
>only 27% grade
>long
Time to go pro
>>946425
>spanners
>special
Caliper brake pad reccomendation?
I cant lock my rear wheel when its pouring because im obese,have girly hands,have autism,am a virgin,are dumb,low test,beta faggotini
>>946443
Kool Stop salmon
>>946425
Why is the socket wrench attached? i am imagining you right now pulling on the socket wrench from its handle. I refuse to believe it wont budge if you put a support under the other pedal and stand on that motherfucker.
>>946443
dick breaks
>>946443
should probably also read this and stop using your rear break
http://www.sheldonbrown.com/brakturn.html
>>946443
Other anon beat me to it, but another vote for Kool Stop.
If you're on steel rims, or are have old/crappy brake calipers that flex a lot, you'll need to address those issues before any brake pad upgrade helps though.
>>946437
Six is fine as long as the range of available high and low gears is sufficient - more gears just gives you get smaller differences between each cog so you can match your gear ratio to the terrain more precisely.
>>946425
that's why i cringe when people throw their pedals on without any sort of grease
also don't buy into the park tools bullshit
most of their tools suck dick, just go with the traditional snap-on.matco/cornwell shit it's a little more expensive and not bike specific but the shit is way nicer
>>946327
you're aware that sellers can leave reviews on their own pages on ali express right?
there is also a lot of scamming on there
honestly if you're new to shopping online stay away from alie express
like ebay is probably over your skill level as far as detecting shady shit, so ali is 100% out of your skill level they do some real shady shit on there and aliexpress doesn't take paypal for a reason (paypal refused their business)
>>946451
> more gears just gives you get smaller differences between each cog
Not entirely true. If it's 6 speed it's probably 14-28, possibly as low as 15-23, where as 7 speed could get you as high a range as 12-32. 8 speed will then get you 11-34, 10 speed 11-36, 11 speed 10-42 (none of these including expanders or custom cassettes).
>>946460
If you're budget is that low then you're only option might just be to get a shitty bike, but at least it'll get you around. If you're actually wanting to enjoy cycling then consider saving up some more money.
>>946466
this, when you want to get "into cycling" with $150
you're not going to stick around when your used pile of shit falls apart and needs $250+ in parts and $300+ in labor after 2 months of riding since it was neglected for 20 years
and you'll walk away saying the hobby is shit
if you want to try it, try it for real,. get a real bike, shit rent a real bike and try it for a weekend
then if you truly enjoy it
get into it once you get a job
but don't cobble some craigslist shit together to half-ass a hobby
/r/ing the rare pepe on his bike holding up traffic
>>946273
I'd say they're pretty gud. I don't know about the company but the bikes seem the be worth the money.
Lads, where do you steal Milk crates for your beater bike?
>>946484
>not living next to a dairy farm
What, do you live in the middle of some giant important capital of the world or some shit, city slicker?
>>946491
Why would you be under that impression? Because their packaging looks like it came out of the 1990's like sheldonbrown.com?
>>946431
U mad bby?
>>946492
No, because I heard someone claim they were and he'd started stockpiling for future use. I'll most gladly make fun of him and his smelly rubber hoard if he was wrong.
>>946484
Behind any place that sells dairy.
My beater has a square-taper crankset.
The drive-side taper is slightly off, resulting in a very slight wobble in the chainring which causes the chain to rub the front derailleur cage in certain gears. It's more annoying than problematic.
Is there a quick fix, aside from replacing the crankset?
>>946484
ur mum's bra
>>946521
Depends on what you define as quick.
If it's limit screw, loosen those a wee bit
If you have a flat-bar, you can try a twist shifter with micro-adjust because it has a lot of "trim" positions, so you can move the derailleur a bit without shifting chainrings to keep it from rubbing
That said, I don't know what your diagnostic process was, but it could be the chainrings being a bit bent or out-of-true, the crankarm not being fully seated on the spindle, or the spindle being bent.
>>946521
If the crank arm is loose, you can try putting locktite on the spindle and bolt threads and really torquing it on there - if it still comes loose after that, replace the crank arm, otherwise it will come loose as you ride and be dangerous.
But are you sure it's not just the chainring that's slightly bent? If so you can bend it back to being straight. Or is your bottom bracket slightly too loose, allowing the crank to rock a little bit under heavy load? Or is the entire crankset not very stiff?
>>946525
>>946526
It's not any of the those other things.
As I said, the taper in the drive side crank arm is off. This results in one point on the spider being slightly closer to the frame than any other. As the crank completes a full revolution, this point passes through the derailleur cage. When that happens the chain brushes the cage just enough to make noise. This occurs on both chainrings, which are straight. The crank is properly torqued down. If I remove the crank and torque it down incrementally, the chainrings remain perfectly aligned until a certain point, after which they become out of true as described. The point at which this first occurs is a bit too loose to be safely rideable, so I can't just leave it half-torqued.
I was hoping to avoid throwing money at the problem because the crankset is a hilariously crappy one with riveted chainrings and it is, after all, just a beater.
>>946532
Bend the chainrings slightly to compensate.
How bad of an idea would it be to throw away all my boxers and use biking shorts underneath all day every day?
>>946594
Unpadded lycra (running shorts) is fine to wear all the time, but shorts with a chamois should not be used that way, because riding with a dirty, unwashed chamois can lead to infected boils if you do develop a sore in that area.
>>946453
>most of their tools suck dick, just go with the traditional snap-on.matco/cornwell
fucking this
>>946453
It's not even more expensive if you manage to get the stuff on sale, or just buy used. I got a shit ton of my hand tools from people getting rid of their grandpas old stuff.
How do I motivate myself to buy a bike and also to ride it?
I found this nice bike and it costs $400 (pic related). $400 is about half what i earn monthly and this is a big concern to me because I want to buy but I don't want to leave it rusting in a corner.
700x35, tz/turney deraileurs, tz cassette, ez fire levers, aluminum everywhere. weights about 14 kilos.
>>946675
forgot pic
Can I put dropbars in a bike with front suspension?
>>946681
If the bike is six inches too short, yes.
>>946532
I'd try stuffing a shim on the thru-axle on one surface and aligning the bad surface of the crankarm with it.. not saying this will work, I have no idea, but that's what I'd try.
are you sure the bad taper is on the crankarm and not the thru axle? (admittedly, much more likely it's the crankarm, but) a replacement thru axle should be cheap af though, even a new one. but you might have to scour bins at the co-op if it's some old discontinued size.
>>946675
>I found this nice bike
Looks liek shit, buy a used bike or build one at a co-op because if you're already asking for us to motivate you, you're not going to ride it but at least you can tinker with it when you're bored.
>>946681
Yes
mtbtires.com/features/bikes/why_dropbars.html
>>946600
He didn't say he wouldn't be washing them you fucking dumbass.
>>946686
>>946688
>Looks liek shit
I don't care much about the looks i just want one that won't kill me. I can easily find cheaper bikes in markets/department stores, but their components fail after just a bit of usage.
>buy a used bike
I tried. I can only find expensive "gotta go fast" bikes, bikes too small for me and abused beyond repair market bikes.
>craigslist
I can't. I live in Brazil, near the amazon forest. Nobody in craigslist-like websites ships to outside their states.
Thanks for everything. I'll try searching harder.
>>946693
>bikes too small for me
If it's not that much smaller you can swap components to make it work.
sucks to be you huebro, good luck finding something that isn't shit, good luck not getting it stolen.
>>946693
>I don't care much about the looks
It's not the looks, it's that it looks like it will be complete shit. Suspension fork, floppy quill stem thingy, fat saddle and adsurd rise are all hallmarks of the shitties department store tier BSOs.
Can't you get a decent bike shipped? Like a Kona Dew or something.
>>946697
>implying some darkie from huekistan won't steal it before it gets to his door
Hi /bqg/, I think I fucked up.
Ive been having some shifting trouble on my <2 month old intensively used road bike the past few days. When in the larger sprockets I had to double shift to get it to shift to a smaller one, one tick just made chain noises but no shift. So I decided to fiddle a bit with pic related to see if it did anything. Now I cant rotate it anymore since its completely stuck, and the rear derailler wont shift in the two smallest sprockets at all now. The old problem still persists too. What do? Parts are all ultegra so I hope I didnt fuck some shit up.
So... there's this garage sale on my street and they're selling a market bike real cheap. I feel like turning it into a commute/hybrid bike.
How do I know the frame is the right one for my size? I know my measurements but the owner doesn't know shit aside that it has 26" wheels.
>>946713
He also doesn't know what model it is, he just says it's a "old Shimano bike". There are no decals on the frame.
the pleather head band cover on my headphones is falling apart. i am looking for a DIY solution to it.
i thought maybe a handle bar grip tape might work. needs to be fabric/textured, comfortable and long lasting.
pic semi related. not bike tape but some sort of similar adhesive fabric from a store called daiso.
>>946719
This is the bike questions general, your post is neither bike related nor contains a question.
>>946716
Air up the tires if you can't roll it on a 12" sheet of plywood
If it digs into your crotch it's too big
If you stand over it and it's like mid thigh it's too small
Quick and dirty way
>>946722
it's related to bike bar grips. and i want recommendations on a bike grip you think might be suitable. i've found one type called Velox Tressostar Cloth Bar Tape. looks like it might be more hard wearing than this daiso stuff.
(don't be a jerk it's not like i'm going to get better advice on this in /mu/ or /g/)
>>946728
Daiso isn't a fabric store, it's a Japanese dollar tree/99 cent store
>>946719
There might be a replacement for that. I know I was surprised by the variety of parts Sony carries for my headsets, MDR-7506s.
>>946731
yes but they sell this adhesive fabric repair stuff which you can see used to good effect in >>946719
only downside is i'm not in Japan so i haven't found an EU equivalent yet.
>>946732
audio technica spares are overpriced and i was unhappy with how long this band lasted in the first place. not even half as long as the band you mentioned.
>>946734
Fabric bar tape isn't adhesive backed, You're thinking foam/cork
Cotton tape is tied down with string then shellacked
>>946736
"Delux Adhesive cloth bar tape."
>>946738
Huh, never seen that. Not a great idea either way. Also don't be ghetto don't wrap your headphones in bar tape and don't glue a bunch of daiso fabric to it just buy a new set
>>946738
>replying to sieg
>2016
The rear derailleur on my bike (shimano 600 tricolore) has trouble shifting to lower gears, and sometimes shifts to higher gear instead to a lower one like it's supposed to. What do?
>>946746
Sounds more like a shifter problem than a derailleur problem to me
>>946716
So it's stolen. Stop fucking funding these people. What kind of something-something are you?
I have a Raleigh m50, i don't know much about it, but it's a mountain bike, that much I can tell you.
Can I put road tires on this so I can easily ride it on the roads?
>>946746
Most likely a cable tension issue, not the derailleur itself.
>>946774
Check the sidewall for the size. it'll probably be 26x2 or 26x2.25. If so, find some 26x1.5 slick tires, something like this.
http://www.nashbar.com/bikes/Product_10053_10052_560321_-1___204729
Works great on pavement and gravel/compact dirt.
I'm budget-upgrading my urban winter bike with a 2012 Scott Scale 10 carbon frame. If I'm just using it for casually getting around roads in blizzards, should I pair it with a Chinese-carbon fork, or stick with the Manitou Minute I've got? The Minute's free because it's super-dead; no air, only springs.
Replaced cassette and chain.
Now have a clicking noise every chain link, and you can also feel this through the pedals.
What have I fucked up?
Can I fix?
Cassette is exact swap HG50 8 speed to HG50 8 speed.
Chain is a KMC 8 speed chain.
Chain has been lubed with Muc Off dry lube.
Rear derailleur adjustment (B and Barrel adjuster) does not cure the noise.
Pretty pissed off cause I had work to do tonight, it's now half midnight and the only thing I have achieved is fucking up my bike.
>>946855
How do you know it isn't chainrings?
Also is it a click, a skip, or it is just chain noise? Because it takes a while for parts to wear in.
>>946852
>urban winter
Rigid is the only way to go, anon-kun.
>>946852
If you're happy to spend the money I'd go for the rigid forks, suspension isn't needed on roads and will just be extra weight to haul around.
Out of interest what's the make and model of the fork? I've been considering getting a carbon one to replace my aluminium one to kill a bit of road buzz and maybe drop a bit of weight.
>>946855
Double and triple check that you got the chain through the derailleur the right way, and it's not on the wrong side of one of the plates in the lower. Everyone screws that up at least once in their lifetime.
>>946856
Hmmm. It's more of a clicky feel with a bit of sound. Definitely not a skip.
Ruled out chainrings as sound and feel both appear to be coming from the rear derailleur. If you touch it and pedal you can feel the vibrations.
It also happens just as badly on the small chainring on the front, which I extremely rarely use (I live somewhere super flat) again suggesting it isn't the chainrings.
>>946861
Java. Popular China coconut fiber fork around the forums a while ago. Heavy though. 600g for the little one and an extra hundred and fifty for the 29".
>>946866
Pretty sure that's just new parts feel.
>>946863
Yup, it's not touching any part of the cage.
I checked like 15 times.
*sigh*
>>946870
>>946870
Will do a decent ride then, and report back.
Let's hope this thread lasts longer than this wet weather we're having here.
>>946875
You've never installed a new chain and cassette before? Before parts wear in, you can feel every link passing every tooth.
3 questions
> should i stick clear protector on my downtube for a titanium cross/gravel bike? Theres no paint to chip, will gravel hurt the bare ti?
> does an untrue rim have to be fixed, will i die if i leave it untrue? Disc brakes so braking isnt affected
>do worn or chipped pulley wheels need to be replaced or is it fine riding with it, since it's plastic?
>>946883
You can just spot true it yourself. You want to avoid loose and under tensioned spokes, because that's what causes wheels to go from bad to worse. Doing it by pitch is perfectly fine here.
>>946883
It'll be fine
True it yourself
Don't matter
Hey guys, I have an old 7-speed Shimano rear hub I'm trying to rebuild. It's one of those "silent" hubs from 90's Trek MTB mania. I have it disassembled all but the freehub body which seems seized to the hub. I could put a breaker bar on this 10mm hex and it wouldn't come loose. Is there any way to service the freehub while attached? Like, what if I put the whole thing in my ultrasonic cleaner with some solvent, tried to flush out all the crap, and then tried to cram some light lube in there around the bell of the freehub? Or, even just apraying the heck out of it with aerosol white lithium grease? I'm reading those hubs had a lighter lube in there to keep the pawls from sticking. Any silent hub gurus out there, theyre trash, I know.
Say I have a fork with a steerer tube that's too short for the frame (it's long enough to screw in the top headset race but not the lockring). What would be the best (and cheapest) solution here?
>>946892
It's generally advisable to have a rim attached before attempting to remove a freehub. I don't know what the internals of that hub look like so I can't give you much advice.
>>946895
Buy a new fork, unless it's because you bought a retarded aluminum threaded headset with cartridge bearings and is extra tall stack.
>>946898
No, it's a steel frame and fork with classic 1" threaded headset, someone gave it to me, no idea why they cut the steerer so short, the frame and fork have the original paint still so I know they're both from the same frameset.
What about those fork steerer extenders?
How likely are these to suddenly explode under me and kill me?
http://www.aliexpress.com/item/2-color-New-arrival-Road-bicycle-3K-full-carbon-fibre-forks-Fixed-Gear-bike-carbon-forks/32395040211.html?ws_ab_test=searchweb201556_10,searchweb201602_4_10017_10005_10006_10034_10021_507_10022_10009_10020_10008_10018_10019,searchweb201603_2&btsid=1da416d6-95f5-4da8-af04-69d407fb9bf1
I currently ride on a no-name alu fork, can't be much worse right?
>>946912
they'll be 1 1/8" so they won't fit even if you get a threadless headset
>>946912
I'm in a similar dilemma. Found these on Ebay, tons of them for around the £30 mark. I'm just not sure if I can bring myself to trust them when if they fail I could quite possibly end up dead.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Carbon-Fiber-Fixed-Gear-Bike-Front-Fork-V-Disc-brake-28-6mm-700C-1-1-8-HOT-Q3G1-/262337604232?hash=item3d148a2a88:g:hvgAAOSwr7ZW5~Ic
>>946912
Would you buy a $30 bungee jumping rope and jump it?
>>946883
If it's severely out of true you should true it.
Pulley wheels are metal, not plastic. If pulley wheels have worn/chipped teeth, continue to ride with them may cause your chain to wear prematurely.
>>946920
Actually, maybe I'm retarded and some pulley wheels are plastic. In which case I don't think it would make as much difference. Worn chainring/cassette teeth wear your chain for sure, maybe not the pulleys so much.
>>946909
>someone gave it to me
>the frame and fork have the original paint still so I know they're both from the same frameset
No, you think they are. So did the person who originally got them thinking they'll fit, and passed the mess over to you when he realized they didn't.
Threaded forks are frame size dependent. That's why we now use threadless forks. You have to cut one separate fork for each size frame you're selling, and you can mix and match. The fork you have may be for the same frame model you have - but a smaller size.
There is no way to fix this. Get another fork.
First time posting. I'm sure you get these questions a lot but here I go:
Looking to getting an urban commuter that has the ability for occasional dirt trains. An all purpose bike, essentially.
I'm on the fence about saving up for a month or so and buying new (less than $900) or just getting a beater from Craigslist for a couple hundred. I have some reservations about the cheaper option for various reasons, but it seems like the prices are right.
I live in Chicago so the terrane is pretty flat. If you were me, would you spend a little extra for a new bike that's sized right etc, or just say fuck it and buy a beater?
I've been out of work but just started a job, that's why I have to save for a bit for a new bike.
>>946929
>just started a job
Get a beater
>>946929
This >>946930, You are in shitcago, your bike is going to get stolen by niggers before the end of the summer, and if it does make it to winter then that bike is going to have a tough time with winter. Buy a craigslist bike, then look into how to fix it up. I am sure there is a buyers guide somewhere and everything you need to know about fixing a bike is probably already on youtube.
>>946944
>there are actually people browsing /n/ RIGHT NOW who don't keep their bikes inside
fucking honestly, just take your own life, end it by your own hand right now
not the guy who asked the question btw, I don't even live in shitcago, I just take care of my shit unlike you obviously
What type of bike is best ?
>>946984
Fat bike is best bike
>>946855
Anon...
did you shorten the chain to the correct length?
Anyone ever stripped and repainted their frame? I'm thinking about sandblasting or bead blasting my old rush hour and repainting it?
Recommendations on paint? Too big to bake. Is it better to just prep it myself to cut costs and then have someone else apply the paint?
>>947106
Any cheap paint job is going to turn to shit almost immediately with use. Repainting a bike is not worth it imo unless you're going for a high end restoration job and spending big money (might as well get another frame money). Powdercoating isn't that expensive though and is relatively durable. $50-$150 depending on where you live. A powdercoating shop should be able to sandblast it for you, or you could save money and strip it with brush on paint stripper sand paper and files (a real cunt of a job).
>>947115
Yeah I was comparing the prices for sand/bead blasters because I'd use it on multiple projects but I found a shop nearby that powder coats frames for $150 so I might do that.
>>946987
Faggot
>>946920
The majority of pulley wheels are plastic
Is shimano stx rc a servicable groupset for general purpose cycling?
moreover, am i a faggot for wanting a rigid 26er ss'ed? its with cantilevers too...
>>947179
>am i a faggot for
You're a faggot regardless of what you want, look where we are, I'm a giant faggot too.
That being said a ss rigid 26 would be fucking fun as shit so go be a fun-having faggot.
Are disc breaks a meme?
>>947187
Your life is a meme
>>947187
Disc breaks are a major safety hazard.
Disc brakes are the best performing bicycle brakes. They have their downsides too, mainly weight and cost, but for some people the performance outweighs both of those.
>>947179
SSMTBs are frustratingly slow. Even if you're not of the GOTTAGOFAST mentality, there's moments when you'll really miss some gears.
>>947187
No. They're pretty nice, and I'd rather have em if I'm not trying to run the lightest thing possible.
>>947201
ss mtber here, I've placed in all of the couple races I've done and really don't care to go back to having a derailleur. YMMV
>>947199
Fml. That sort of weight difference is not going to make any difference.
Do you carefully fill your bidons to ensure you don't have 200ml more water than you need?
Do you make sure to piss out every last drop you can before a ride?
Because that's about the same weight a disc adds vs caliper brake.
And that's ignoring the weight you actually save because hydraulic is lighter than cable
How much money am I going to have to sink into this "free" bike?
http://chicago.craigslist.org/chc/bik/5551649180.html
>>947243
Dead link
>>947245
Damn. Must already be gone.
>>947242
They can be far more than 200g heavier, not that I give a shit but some people do. Not only is there the weight from the brake system itself but you also need stronger and heavier hubs and wheels with more spokes (you could possibly use lighter rims with discs, but I don't think you could make them much lighter) and you also need to beef up the frame and fork around the disc mounts.
I just had a look at the Boardman SLR Ednurance women's bike as it comes in disc and rim brake with the similar spec, the rim brake version is 400g lighter.
>>946984
The one that fits you and makes you feel good.
source: (NSFW) https://www.empflix.com/videos/Orgasmic-bicycle-Dildo-in-public-91554.html
I put some good 25mm tires on my Giant Escape because I want to go faster. Was this a good decision? I'm picking my bike up tomorrow with new pedals and fancy bar ends (pic is of the part, not my bike)
Yes I know I am a scrublord
>>947274
>I'm picking my bike up tomorrow
You mean you couldn't install pedals and barends but left those horribly complicated tasks to a bike shop?
>>947274
git gud
i want a scalpel 2 with the cannondale lefty fork. to service it will a bike store do it or do i have to send it to cannondale somewhere. i heard of sending fox shocks to fox before
>>947216
Ook, the land here is flat anyway. Now what about tensioners and chopping cranksets?
And any suggestions for high volume high pressure 26es anyone?
i am building a cheap singlespeedbeater with a roadbike frame with a 120mm rear dropout, just saw that i was able to respace a 126mm rearwheel to 120mm easily, it got a 7 casette attached. now i wonder if i install some cheap 7 derailleur and shifter then it just should work fine, right?
>>947380
yes.
If the frame is steel don't bother re spacing the wheel, it will just slide in with a lil persuasion.
>>947383
allright, it just slides in without a problem and runs straight. i'll just get some cheap shifterstuff and drop the singlespeedidea
>>946053
first visit to n
i need an opinion on upgrading my 5 speed drive train system to a 6/7 set. From what im seeing, finding new 5 speed sets is very limited.
Its usable in its current condition, but i want to start communing with it and I'm moving to Portland in about 2 months and want to have something more dependable. Plus i hate hunting for parking spots with my car.
You guys think its worth to keep replacing parts on to it, or going ahead and replacing the whole set (including the wheel, since i noticed that a 6/7 freewheel wont fit on a 5speed one)? From start to finish, it would be about $120 for half decent parts, which would be a new wheel, a new free wheel (or spend a little more on the wheel and switch to a cassette), a new chain, and new shifters.
>>947428
>moving to Portland
REEEEE stop that, at least move to Eugene...
Just sell that shit and buy something when you get to portland, it's only going to get stolen by all the fucking homeless assholes invading.
Watch your step, it's most likely human poop mate. That being said I don't think it's worth the 120 it would cost for just the rear, I'd rather spend it on a beater that I wouldn't care if someone made off with it.
>>947434
>i wouldn't care if someone made off with my 120$
>>947284
Yes. I cant install shit
![b7070-u7534_orig[1].jpg](https://i.imgur.com/PqnHU13.jpg "b7070-u7534_orig[1].jpg")
I have came into possesion of an "Atala Explorer" MTB bicycle in mint condition just hae to straighten the rims, anyone knows something about them ? Are they good ? I think I'll tune it up, and sell it with my current oldtimer Puch street bike and getting a 2nd hand hardtail, as advised by /bbg
What could be done to to incrase it's price, i will add a bottle holder, and maybe a stand. Oiling everything, etc...
where can i find a chart of Reach and Drop measurements for different drop bars?
specifically looking for the measurements on those ubiquitous Sakae SR Road Champion bars that came on nearly every bike from the 70's or 80's
>>947428
Do you like the bike as a whole? Is it fun and comfortable to ride, and in decent shape? If so, upgrade it. If not, replace it.
>>947435
I don't, I make more in a day, the city I live in used to be nice and I could ride my nice commuter bike and never have to worry but shit has changed.
I wouldn't miss a beater... I would just feel inconvenienced, the lock that they'd have to cut is worth more than my bike mate. I don't even understand that logic, if someone steals your bike they must have cut/broken your lock and that's at least a minimum 60 dollar investment.
My current beater cost me 20 dollars at a pawn shop but I still wouldn't miss anything under 200 bucks. That's just how it is now, so much fucking homeless youth LITERALLY shitting in our streets and stealing bikes.
tl;dr: fuck you, fuck your mother, get a real job faggot. 120 bucks should be something you can lose in a day and not be met with financial hardship.
>>947580
>Rim brakes require thicker rims so a disc brake setup is lighter than a rim brake setup.
No. You can use slighter lighter rims (remember they still have to be strong enough to not explode when inflating the tyre) but the brake setup itself is usually heavier, plus the weight of the disc, the heavier hubs to incorporate the disc mount and be strong enough, more spokes in the wheels to make them stronger, and the frame and fork have to be made stronger around the caliper mounts.
On high end bikes it's not a huge amount more weight but it's still heavier, there are very few cases where a disc bike ends up being lighter than an equivalent rim brake one.
>>947580
Disc brakes themselves are not that much heavier, even though the whole thing IS heavier, the thing is that frames and forks have to be strenghtened to use disc brakes, or they can't handle the stress.
But really the only issue with disc brakes is that wheel removing can be a bit of a pain in the ass, especially the rear wheel (gotta slide it in the brakes), and in general you might knock the brakes around a little and have to readjust them every freaking time. Plus the pads are very easy to contaminate if you're not careful.
>>947434
>947274
>human feces
im from sacramento, so worth it. portland is the easiest us city ive been to. im moving to the north though so hopefully not as bad as like Hawthorne or anywhere like downtown/pearl
>>947638
Because if FSA says it, it must be true.
On average disc brakes are heavier than rim brakes, disc forks are heavier than rim brake forks, disc frames are heavier than rim brake frame, disc brake hubs are heavier than rim brake hubs, and disc wheels are heavier than rim brake wheels (a slightly lighter rim doesn't make up for a heavier hub and more spokes).
6in tall newbie here. Haven't biked in ten years.
Are 29ers more insecure than 26?
Today I went to a bike shop to try a few bikes (i'm buying one next paycheck) and the salesmen kept pushing 29 on me.
Salesgirl:
>dude, ur tall. u need 29
Shop's dirty mechanic pretending to be a salesguy:
>dude lmao. 29 were made for u
/fa/ salesguy:
>sir i think 29ers are the best choice for you.
Were they right? 29" didn't even exist in my country last time I rode a bike.
>>947669
(cont)
Is there an objective way to know what wheel size I need?
>>947669
>Are 29ers more insecure than 26?
watisthisidonteven.avx
Dude. Is there a sensible question well hidden in that post somewhere or are you just hing as fuck?
>>947669
29ers are going to be more stable but less agile, which is annoying to a lot of people who want better handling, so the industry is pushing 27.5" (a.k.a. 650B) now. 26" is dead for another few years, and then it will be mysteriously revived as the new cool thing.
I'm still happy with my retarded 26" shredder that can't take larger than 2" tires. I don't mind crashing a few times a year if it means that my bike reacts to my inputs faster.
>>947674
Insecure as in psychologically insecure.
It felt like they were trying to lure me into buying a meme or justifying their own purchases (they kept telling me they have 29 wheels).
It reminded me of those kind of weed smokers that keep telling everybody about "muh weed" all the time.
>>947675
Ok so I guess 29 is a good choice for me then.
I'm not going into trails or anything, I'll put some slick tires and bike around the town in my free time.
>>947669
Chunky 26" tyres (2"+) are around the same diameter if not more than skinny 700c tyres and those are fine for guys much taller than you. 29" rims are the same as 700c, so imagine a road bike with fat tyres, no one needs that.
If you're actually going to be riding off road then get 27.5"/650b, I would suggest 26" but I'm guessing you're wanting to buy new and unfortunately the options aren't as vast these days.
>>947678
Then get a hybrid, cheaper and lighter.
>>947669
Downhill mountain biking: 26" or 650b
Enduro mountain biking: 26" or 650b
Cross country mountain biking: 29"
Pavement/gravel cycling: 700c (aka 29")
>>947678
Then you want a cyclocross bike or hybrid. The good kind of hybrid, not the shitty beach cruiser kind.
And you probably want semislicks rather than slicks.
And you definitely want 700c aka 29".
>>947646
NO
>>947681
Affordable hybrids look like shit here, 99% of them have rounded frames. I'll probably be getting pic related.
>>947685
Don't fucking get that if you are only going to be riding on pavement, that would be the most fucking retarded decision you could possibly fucking make.
>>947685
>muh round tubes
>>947684
Prove it
>>947685
You mean round frame tubes? Probably shit tier steel. That mountain bike doesn't look particularly cheap though, what's your budget?
>>947685
Since you have no idea what you're doing, here's a list of bicycles you should consider:
Marin Muirwoods 29er
Kona Dew Plus
Trek FX
Specialized Sirrus
Cannondale Bad Boy
Salsa Vaya
Surly Straggler
All-City Macho Man
Kona Jake
>>947686
Nigga it's the same thing but with suspension and disk brakes. I asked the guy how much it'd cost to make a new bike from a scratch (v-brake) and it was, somehow, just about as much as the ready-to-ride one: USD 420. He told me rigid 29" forks are expensive. desu I'm kinda wanting to make a bike from scratch but buying shit from the internet sucks (no free shipping to the state I live) and I don't have any experience.
>>947692
kona, trek, specialized, cannondale, gt, surly are all expensive as fuck here because they are imported. the other brands you mentioned simply don't exist here.
Do you guys have a good "how to build your bike from scratch" guide?
>>946984
Depends on what you're trying to accomplish.
>>947698
Dude, where are you from? Europe? Is there Decathlon in you area? They sell quite excellent cost-performance MTB's. Check out their catalogue.
>>947698
>Nigga it's the same thing but with suspension and disk brakes
Smaller wheels and larger tyres, slacker MTB geometry, MTB gearing, and a stronger but heavier frame. All those things (bar disc brakes) are just dead weight that only serves to slow you down and use more energy if you don't intend on actually riding the thing off road.
I used to commute on mountain bikes as a didn't feel like buying a dedicated road bike (I actually used them off road), then I caved in and bought a decent hybrid and it's so much better (cheaper too).
>>947698
STOP BEING A STUBBORN FUCKING DUMBASS. YOU DON'T WANT A FUCKING MOUNTAIN BIKE. Suspension means the bike is significantly heavier and it also means it is either significantly more expensive or the other components are lower end to make up for the added cost of the suspension. IF YOU'RE NOT GOING TO MOUNTAIN BIKE THEN DON'T BUY A FUCKING MOUNTAIN BIKE.
Building your own bike is generally more expensive. You can do it but there's so many different standards for each component, you have to know what you're doing to get components that will be compatible with each other, and you also need various tools. You're obviously not an experienced bike mechanic so building your own bike is not a good option for you right now.
Just get a fucking hybrid or cyclocross bike. What brands do you have available? Give us a list of brands or links to local bicycle dealers/bike shops or something. I guarantee you there are MUCH better options than that mtb you want. I'm not saying it's a bad bike, it looks like a very fun bike, but NOT FOR WHAT YOU'LL BE USING IT FOR.
If you want to continue being stubborn then okay but that bike, stop asking us for help, and regret it soon. Otherwise TAKE OUR FUCKING ADVICE, we know what we're talking about.
>>947704
>All those things (bar disc brakes) are just dead weight that only serves to slow you down
>implying dick breaks dont slow you down
top kek
>>947706
>this guy
>>947705
>then okay but that bike
*buy
>>947703
>Decathlon
pic related, annotations in red.
this is the entire "hybrid" section.
>>947705
I'm not being stubborn m8, the majority of bikes in the market have suspension, even shitty $100 bikes do. It's not easy to run away from it unless I go for unknown brand weak as fuck chinese shit.
>>947703
>Decathlon
Fuck off.
>>947716
Buy a Kona Dew. You don't want the pogo stick "suspension" offered on shit tier hybrids. You don't want a MTB suspension fork with a 50h service interval. No, I'm not exaggerating.
>>947716
All of the bikes in pic related are shit, but some people call the good kind of hybrids by different names such as "sport bikes", "fitness bikes", "urban bikes" etc.
Maybe the shop you're looking at only carries shit bikes. Have you checked another shop?
>>947720
No, they have good brands there but they are very expensive. Hybrid and urban bikes are sort of a new thing here and the local brands insist on making those funny frames for some reason. To make things worse the customers believe those shitty suspensions are comfortable (they never felt what real suspension feels like).
To my eyes there were just MTBs and road bikes in the shop aside from pic related.
>>947724
How about cyclocross bikes? Or a link to their website? or check another bike shop?
You don't want a shitty comfort cruiser bike, and you don't want a mountain bike.
Road bike, maybe.
>>946053
How bad is using double chainrings for single speed drivetrain? If they're supposed to be "9 or 10 speed chain only" that only applies if you want to have multiple gears, as the internal size of 3/32" chain is the same as 10 speed chain, right?
What are some good resources on the basics of bikes?
>>947720
How can you be sure they're all shit, m8?
I don't know about the other Decathlon bikes but for MTB's they're absurdly good CONSIDERED THEIR PRICE. Case in point, my 2012 bike has components 90% similar to what brands still try to push on €700 bikes, only that mine when new was €350 and I bought it used for €200
Only gripes - wheels are heavy but sturdy, front derailer is shitty, tyres were horrible. But even then a new front derailer is like 30€, new rubber is 40€ per tyre for great quality stuff, and I actually think these wheels are good for non-track use because they're hard to break (and when they do I'll buy new ones, yes.)
Pretty much only major, costly issue is that the fork is a Suntour XCR coil with no rebound adjustment, which is still perfect if you're not racing. And guess what? Major brands will still push the same shit on €700 bikes! i.e. a Cannondale Trail 5 has WORSE mechs than mine (I got an X-5 on the rear) and it costs 640€, being 99% the same. fucking. bike.
So don't be quick to diss decathlon bikes because they're not a "good namebrand", cycling is 99% overpriced shit and most midrange decathlon bikes make actual sense.
I might be totally wrong and I'm actually curious, so show me a brand that can absolutely beat for price-performance this little mtb right here, just as a general example:
http://www.decathlon.co.uk/rockrider-560-mountain-bike-275-id_8336092.html
Again, my case is not that these are amazing bikes, it's just that they're good bikes for anyone that is not doing serious racing.
>>948073
sheldonbrown.com
parktool
>>948073
Zinn and the art of mountain/road bike maintenance
Sheldon Brown's website... Good resource for older bikes
Park tools website for very detailed maintenance guides
Dave Moulton bike blog for bike geometry/handling/grande building info and history. Ex bike builder from UK
Bike snob NYC blog for annoying but funny news and commentary
Retro grouch blog for classic bike stuff and Luddite, anti modern bike industry propaganda
i've got 8 spd STI RSX and a 7 spd RSX rear derailleur, might there be any incompatibilities?
>>948079
No, as long as you're running a 8 speed cassette
>>948083
means i have to get a 130mm rearwheel? or are there 8 freewheels/casettes/whatever for 126mm?
>>948074
I got interested on the RockRider 300 (saw it in the french or portuguese decathlon website) but it's never been on sale here unfortunately.
These are the only decathlon/btwin bikes available right now:
Decathlon MTB 200 26"
RockRider 340 26"
-- comfortably affordable threshold --
RockRider 500 26"
RockRider 520 26"
What is the objective difference between an 24speed acera group and a 24 speed altus group?
