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You are currently reading a thread in /n/ - Transportation
You are currently reading a thread in /n/ - Transportation
there's no thread and I have a question
I've got two major questions.
One, the chainstay (2nd from bottom pic) was getting really nicked up on my bike, and when I noticed I put a few layers of masking tape over it. Today, when I peeled it off to take a picture there wasn't any more damage but quite a bit has already been done. I would like to know why the chain might be hitting the chainstay and how to prevent it.
Two, in additon to the chainstay damage there's some old chips on other parts of the frame that have rotten rusty, and I have bought some supplies from various stores to fix them.
The supplies I bought for painting are:
>sandpaper, 60, 150, 220, and 2000 grit
>rust remover gel (phosphoric acid, water, 2-propanol)
>wax/grease remover prep spray
>surprisingly well matched red spraypaint
>clearcoat
>acetone
>rags
>brushes
>masking tape
My plans for painting, from start to finish are:
>mask off about 1cm around area with tape and paper
>sand with 220 (150 as needed if it's rusty or rough) on and within about a half centimeter of the chipped area, trying not to remove metal
>if it's got rust use the rust remover as directed until it's sufficiently gone, careful to keep it off existing paint
>wipe the area clean
>clean lightly with acetone and/or prep spray (I'm not sure about what do do)
>spray some red paint into tray
>brush on a light coat to cover the sanded area, focusing on chipped spot
>sand lightly with 220
>repeat for 4-5 coats
>sand final coat with 220 then 2000
>spray a coat of clear on masked off area
>use buffing compound to blend the clearcoat in with the stock paint
I'd like to know if I should do anything differently or if I'd be doing anything wrong. The bike is a late 80s/early 90s peugeot montreal express, and the paint almost looks like enamel, which I'm a little concerned about.
Also, how would I go about fixing the chips in the decals, Should I just go with the plan I already laid out and do the final coat over the letter area white before clear coating it?
>>923093
That's pretty involved for a paint patch, I'd like to know how your plan works out, sounds like you're on the right track.
Personally, when I touch up dings I just dab on some nail polish or enamal model paint and call it good - not as thorough as what you're doing but it works, at least for bikes in a dry climate that get stored indoors.
For the decals - there's no way to fix or improve them, you either have to paint over them or peel them off completely.
>>923093
Oops I neglected your first question: chain slap happens when your chain has slack in it and you ride over rough terrain. If your chain is too long or you're using an old derailer that doesn't take up slack effectively, those are problems you can solve, but sometimes on a bike with a triple crankset, wide range gearing, and longish chainstays, there's always going to be a lot of chain available to flop around and bash the stay, so your best option is to make sure you have a large-enough chainstay protector in place.
I have a bike frame that i would like to repaint, it does not have to be an incredibly well done paintjob, but i would like a "bare metal" look, how would i go about doing something like this? Im assuming sanding down the frame and just painting over that, then spraying some kind of sealant to protect it from the elements, yeah? Can i do the same to the rims as well or is that just asking for trouble?
>>923117
For a bare metal look, you can just put multiple clearcoats on a frame - it won't be a very tough finish, and your frame will develop surface rust under the clearcoat, but as long as your frame isn't regularly exposed to moisture the surface rust won't hurt the frame's structural integrity.
And there's no issue with painting rims as long as you're not using rim brakes and painting over the brake track. That said, painted rims pretty much always look horrible unless the rim was painted properly or anodized before being built into a wheel.
>>923123
Alright, ill leave the rims alone then. they wont clash so much if i just repaint the frame. Is there any way to avoid the rust? I would like the bare metal look, but i would also be fine with going silver/chrome if that would help anything as far as elemental protection goes.
Right now the frame is bright red with a silver fork and orange rims, so it looks really ugly/pieced together
http://www.citygrounds.com/fuji/fuji-track-le-fixie-bike-2015-4625/color/BLACK
I'm looking for a decent commuter and bike I can bring on the track. Opinions?
Fuck, does anyone know where i would find an extremely long 25.4 mm seatpost for a minivelo project im working on? I have not found anywhere except a custom shop but their prices are way too high and they only work with titanium
Is there a standard hierarchy of road mechanical disc brakes floating around somewhere?
>>923124
Clearcoat alone is a porous, soft finish, so paint, powdercoat, or chrome plating (very expensive but a possibility) are necessary to protect a steel frame from rust.
>>923140
That bike is nothing special, and you'd want better tires on it at the very least, but it would work for your needs tolerably well - but whether that frame is stiff enough not to be a liability in a competitive track race is another question. Just check that the wheels are true and all the bearings are greased before you ride it.
>>923148
Not that I know of but there really aren't that many options on the market, shouldn't be too hard to read up on what works once you know what general category you're looking at:
hydraulic > mechanical that's self-centering (Spyre) > mechanical
>>923142
I'd talk to frame builders in your area.
If reliability is the most important thing for me, what is the best 10 or 11 speed drive train?
>>923188
>hydro>hy/rd>spyre>bb7>other shit
Pretty sure spyre isn't self centering, it just is dual sided.
>>923188
>talk to frame builders in my area
>closest one is 4 hours away and might not even be operating anymore
lol, i'll probably just make one myself out of a steel/aluminum pipe, figure out the seatpost clamp and do it that way
>>923198
105 10 speed
Ok, two baby questions on account of buying a shitty craigslist bike for basically nothing. First, if my wheel has a presta valve missing the outer screw thing, can I fix it or do I need a new wheel? Also, how much shit carrying capacity can I add to a bike without resorting to trailers?
>>923256
Your wheel is fucked
Trailers are mostly for bulky things
>>923256
1. Depends on what exactly you're looking at. If you're missing part of the valve so that it can't hold air any longer obvious then the tube needs replacing. If you're talking about the nut threads onto the outside of the valve (see pic), those generally aren't necessary - they're a convenience if you have a deep-profile rims, or they can be used to install a Presta-valve in a rim that's drilled for Schrader.
2. Really depends on the bike and your equipment - on a touring bike (read: designed to have reasonable handling when heavily loaded) with front and rear panniers you could exceed 150 pounds of cargo, but that might only be 50 pounds if you only had a rear rack minus panniers on the same bike. A safe bet for most bikes is 25-50 pounds of cargo with nothing more than a rear rack and/or panniers, real world cargo tends to get bulky after that point anyways - good luck carrying a 50 pound sack of flour without a trailer, it's just too big and floppy.
>>923264
And I even made this picture for you...
>>923220
>
sounds like a fun project. let us know when you get raped by your broken seatpost.
>>923091
> there is no thread
What the fuck is this then >>920458
>>923091
Why are cagers such bloodthirsty monsters /n/?
>>923450
Because ctrl+f "bqg" turned up no results.
Anyone try XLC brand handlebars? I'm looking for something comfy for my rigid mtb, back swept between 20 and 30 degrees. They have a bunch of flat / riser bars in that range and prices are super cheap.
![a457242ad3[1].png](https://i.imgur.com/G9PWPaX.png "a457242ad3[1].png")
should I pull the trigger lads?
am I missing anything?
>>923500
Already have shifters?
>>923500
What is the extra link for, and why not a BB9000 bottom bracket?
>>923142
have you tried talking with a local machinist? Just have them take down the head of a long piece of one inch pipe (25.4 mm). Bring it down enough that you can place one of those old fashioned non-intergrated saddle clamps at the very top of the post.
>>923529
ill have to look into that, yeah. I stopped by the hardware store today but all their pipe was either too big or too small. I'n guessing the measurements they showed were for the inside diameter though, so i havent lost hope
>>923500
why not shell out for the 105 crankset? it's not much more
>>923574
Are you talking about using an 11 speed crank for the 10 speed drivetrain, or old 105?
The new tiagra cranks are the 4 bolt config used in higher end groups, wouldn't surprise me if it's lighter or equal to the old 5 bolt 105.
>>923576
I didn't realize that, but I doubt you'd have a problem running the 11 speed crank.
>>923576
It's not. The 4-arm is not that much lighter, except when combined with hollow chainrings. FC-4700 is ~1010g w/ BB. For reference, a Sora FC-3500 crank is ~930g w/ BB. 10 FC-5700 is ~820 w/ BB. The new one is just a hair lighter, and that's mostly because of the new BB.
First of all, 105 gets Hollowtech I, hollow crank arms, which is always going to be a big part of the weight difference between 105 and Tiagra, which gets a solid but slightly recessed arm. The new 105 crank just about breaks even with the old compact crank, and saves some grams over the old standard crank, but the 105 chainrings have lots of pockets worked into them to keep them light and stiff. But it lacks the true hollow structure of Ultegra rings. Tiagra rings are just a sandwich of the outer ring and the ramp plate. The Tiagra crank is probably stiffer, but that's it.
>>923580
>FC-4700 is ~1010g w/ BB
Ah, I couldn't actually find a weight. I think the 105 5700 was a bit under 800grams so that is a decent saving.
>>923581
And damn, the RS-500 cranks on my bike are also nearly 200 grams heavier than series 105.
>>923581
The 3d sculpted chainrings were designed for hollow chainrings (7900, 6700), and were purposefully skipped for 5700. There were some prototype drawings of 5800 with 4 arm flat rings. Shimano probably went with 3d rings because it looks unique, you can't mix and match, and it shuts out 3rd party makers. 3d rings are stiff, but they actually add weight if not used in the original hollow ring design.
>>923583
RS-500 is just the Sora/Tiagra casting with 105 or similar rings.
>>923585
Yeah, it seems to be a very common thing on 105 bikes, to save the manufacturer money I guess.
>>923468
> doesn't know about outside the front page
> doesn't know about the search
Is this shit for real?
>>923641
old bqg hit the bump limit anyways, so stop bitching.
My bike was recently stolen by some crooked fuckers who took the entire rack on a flatbed truck from outside my flat. I'd had that thing for over a decade.
I have no experience with folding or electric bikes. Is this any good:
http://www.proriderleisure.com/leisure/electric-bikes/e-wayfarer-electric-folding-bike-red.html
and does anyone have any advice on folding/electric bikes? I'm interested because folding would let me keep it in my flat and electric would let me leave the car at home more often.
whenever i get to work with Shimano equipment, i either fuck up the Screws, especially the Screwtips get shredded to hell, or just the fucking threads. Is that common? never had such an issue with campa or sram, only Shimano seems to fuck up badly
Can you dismantle a thumb shifter and put it on a down tube ?
>>923961
Sometimes. Depends. Usualy more barcon-like than DT-like.
But why? Actual DT shifters are cheap as dirt.
>>923963
Cause microshift has a 10 speed thumb shifter that does both index and friction, but they don't make it in downtube
>>923963
Actually, they also make a 10 speed bar end shifter index and friction.
Can you dismantle a bar end and put it on the downtube ?
>>923966
But MicroShift is Shimano compatible. You can use any 10spd Shimano DT shifter, and most (all?) indexed DT-shifters are convertible between indexed and friction by flipping a spacerlike component upside down.
>>923973
Except shimano downtubes above 9 speed are not friction convertible from wh they say
>>923975
SL-7900 description on Amazon says
>Rear, Dura-Ace model shifters convertible between index and friction action
>>923978
I think we the front shifter that's convertible to friction, not the rear
>>923984
>not even reading the first word of a written sentence.
It's the rear. It says so in the first word of the sentece. The front shifter is friction only. UC and SJS has similar descriptions - front friction, rear indexed/friction.
Here's a blowup: https://static.bike-components.de/cache/dl-sl-7900-1-pdf-d6c9d24fdf5799c995b42699add419fd.pdf
When no matter the amount of tuning you do on one of those things it either doesn't go up to the biggest ring or it barely does but it takes you to pull the lever so forcedly you feel you'll snap your thumb, other than the obvious "derailleur is shit" could it be the cable?
>>923994
There are two screws on the derailleur. Have you tried unscrewing the one with an 'H' stamped next to it?
>>923998
I nearly completely unscrewed it, and more or less that's what it takes for it to change ring. Both smaller rings work fine, top shifter screw only determines the hardness of the shifting (and thus when fully screwed it won't even try to shift to the last ring) so I guess it's either the cable or the spring in the derailleur.
>>924000
Screw it all the way out then. The fact that it seems to incluence the "hardness" of the shifting means it's still obstructing the upshift. It's a limiter screw. It's supposed to prevent you shifting the chain of the outside of the big chainring - but that is extremely improbable in practice, so you can basicaly just unscrew it.
I'm suspecting you have a square-taper BB with the wrong width, or trying to use a road FD with a MTB/touring crankset. This will usualy not work. At least not very well. :)
>>923985
And here's another amazon listing for the same model that specifically says you can't
http://www.amazon.com/Shimano-SL7900-10-Speed-Braze-On-Shifters/dp/B00629VCKA
I don't think amazon listings know their stuff
>>924010
Original crankset on the bike was triple 46, when it got stripped I changed to triple 42, now I'm up to triple 48. I must say it was hard to change to 42 too. Unless I got it wrong it's a TY22-GS because the regular TY22 is a top pull, this is bottom.
>>924016
Square-taper bottom brackets come with different axle lengths for different chainsets. Yours is likely too long for your particular new crank. A similar mismatch was probably why you found it hard to get the 42 chainset working, originaly.
If you can't get it to work with unscrewing the derailleur limiter all the way you need to find out what axle length your crank needs and buy a new bottom bracket.
Personaly I wouldn't both spending too much time on getting this to work; 42 to 48 is a measly 12% or some such. It'll give you an extra 4-5km/h top speed that can't possibly be that important on anything equipped with a tripple. Just stick with the working stuff you have.
I have touring bike I'm setting up to have an 8 speed freewheel with friction shifters. I have all 8 speed components except my new crankset that has 10 speed chainrings. I'm only using the crankset because I'm piecing this bike together. Will 10 speed chainrings work with an 8 speed chain?
Is there such thing as a
12-14-16-18-20-22-24-26-28-30
cassette? It's not like I ever use the 11t, and I like consistent jumps between cogs
>>924041
Yes
>>924044
so it won't wear out the chain prematurely?
>>924046
No
>>924049
awesome thanks
>>924038
I changed the bottom bracket but never touched the axle inside, kept the default. The original crankset on the bike was 46-36-24, do you think a jump to 48-38-28 would cause the axle to mismatch?
>>924054
From triple to double to single, axle length should change but it doesn't change just cause you're changing the chain rings on your triple
Unless you're changing the crank too, then MAYBE it'll need a different axle length
>>924079
Oh, I forgot one more thing. The bottom pull cable does not have any housing, but neither does the right shifter one and that works perfectly, but the force required to activate that is a lot less I suppose.
I've never rebuilt a hub with a freehub on it before. Do I have to do anything differently to access the bearings?
>>924151
If you've only serviced old freewheel hubs before you'll probably find that the freehub unit has a few more rubber grommets and seals than you're used to, but otherwise the bearings and cones and locknuts do exactly the same things regardless of the hub type.
>>924157
So do the bearings sit right at the end of the freehub then? They're not recessed behind it?
For some reason I always thought it would be symmetrical and you'd have to remove the freehub first.
>>924158
Yep - the main advantage of a freehub body is that it moves the bearings away from the center of the hub.
I know the cable pull ratio prevents me from using an 8 speed derailleur with an 11 speed shifter, but can I use it with 10 speed?
>>924160
cool! Thanks
>>924165
Also, even if it WOULD work, are the advances in derailleur technology between 8 / 10 (smoothness of shifting etc) worth buying the new derailleurs for?
I've heard the newer front derailleurs have reduced spring tension to keep them from slamming the chain down to the smaller rings so hard, but was that introduced in 10 or 11?
Best clothing for multi-day bike "tours"?
Something more comfy then tight fitting. What are some good brands
>>924190
What's more comfy than tight lycra?!
That said, merino is bretty gud, it won't get stinky too quickly.
>>924190
wool shit
>>924197
It's a huge discount, to be sure. But what I've heard is that if you go for a blend (rather than 100% pure merino wool) the deodorising properties disappear fast.
>>924201
Hmm, I think I will go for it. If it turns out after a long period it will be stinky I will just use it as a commuting shirt in the summer. Can't beat that price.
>>924190
Wool if you can afford it. Synthetic if not. No cotton ever.
Given equivalent tires, how well would a gravel/adventure/memeword bike do on roads when compared to something marketed more as a dedicated road bike (say, slick 28s on each....)
>>924266
The dedicated road bike would be unable to mount fenders and a rack, so it would be basically useless except when pretending to be lance armstrong.
>>924266
Can't say anything for sure since there's variation in both categories, and they're much more similar than they are different. The main difference I'd expect to see would be in stock setups, the bars on the "gravel" bike would likely be set higher for slightly improved confidence on gravel at the expense of aerodynamics.
>>924267
Depending if the road bike is endurance or entry level. Most endurance road has eyelets.
>>924042
But those aren't consistent jumps. From first gear to second it's a 1/15 jump. From second highest to highest it's a 1/7 jump. That's more than twice as big.
>>924219
You can use an 8spd Shimano road RD with a 10spd Shimano road shifter - unless it's a 4700 shifter. You can not do it with mountainbike (DynaSys) shifters.
Also, Shadow+ (clutch - chainslap reduction) is only available on the non-compatible mountainbike DynaSys derailleurs.
>>924268
Gt grade vs felt z85 in this case
>>924276
The Grade is a lot slacker up front, and with less fork rake. That combined with phneumatic trail from thick tyres will make it seem very "stable" (sluggish) on the road, compared to the Felt.
That may or may not be a bad thing. It's a matter of preference.
>>924280
Would that even be noticeable if I'm coming from a shitty hybrid?
>>924281
You were asking if the bikes would perform differently. The answer is that they will. They'll handle _very_ differently.
The Grade will be more similar to the archetypical hybrid, but how similar it is to your particular bike is just guess-work.
>>924284
While I agree 100% about the handling feel, I'd argue it wouldn't make any speed/time difference in almost any real world situation.
Any tricks to get into these bastards faster/easier? I like them but my commute involves a lot of stop lights. Should I just switch to the original rat traps?
>>923148
>>924287
No bike does that. They all go about as fast as you pedal. Super-aero non-UCI-legal buys seconds to the km. It's all about being fun to ride on the road, and making it fun to go fast.
Or, on the other hand, letting you slip into the zen zone and pedal on autopilot for hours.
Horses for courses.
>>924288
You should go clipless.
>>924290
Wat
So the current generations of 105, Ultegra and Dura ace Front Derailleurs come with a tiny bit of Plastic plate inside the FD Cage, and i was wondering if it offers any improvement for Shifting. I've just removed the plastic plate out of my FD because the Chain somehow slided from time to time between the FD and Big Chainring. Since i removed it, the Shifting is way smoother and i didn't encounter any Problems so far. Watching the FD and the wearing traces left by the Chain i can say that the Chain never ever touched the area where the plastic plate was mounted to. Does somebody know what Shimano thought about adding that stupid Plasticplate?
>>924299
Shimano calls it a skid plate. It's supposed to keep the noise down on both shifts and trim failure. If your chain never touched it your FD is set up wrong.
>>924296
What are the advantages to clipless over clips?
>>924042
there are 10sp 12-30 cassettes, did you even google it before you asked?? they dont have those exact sprockets because your sprocket layout is retarded, theyre usually:
12 13 14 15 17 19 21 24 27 30
Actually I just read your last bit and realised you are a retard,
>I like consistent jumps between cogs
You want consistent GEOMETRIC progression, not arithmetic. That is, for the most consistent jumps, you want sprocket 's' and sprocket 's+1' to have a constant RATIO s/(s+1), not a common difference (s+1)-(s)
I do not know much about how the bike does.
My bar tape is coming off on one side.
Is there any way to fix this without taking off my brifters and levers and aerobars?
>>924313
clips are obsolete. you're parading around riding ancient technology that hasn't developed since invention.
![bar-tape-install-7[1].jpg](https://i.imgur.com/HWfkfPf.jpg "bar-tape-install-7[1].jpg")
>>924322
You just pull/fold the little rubber 'skirt' of the brifter up to get at the bar tape. Once you've done that you should be able to rewrap without even touching any of those parts you mentioned.
>>924325
This is getting too lewd for me to handle.
I am not a pervert.
>>924313
they make you look even more pro as you struggle to get clipped in at an intersection and get smashed by a car
>>924352
You're either that cager who only posts on /n/ to troll, or you're a filthy casual who thinks clips are better than clipless
>>924313
It's faster to clip in and out, and more secure. Fumbling around with toe clips is the most retarded thing anyone can do. You're much better off with just straight platforms if you're too much of a pussy to attempt the use of modern technology
>>924334
>I am not a pervert.
If that is truly the case, I regret to inform you that you will most likely never know how the bike does.
>>924354
no, I'm that guy who has been commuting by bike for over 20 years and thinks that racing stuff is best used when going out racing. there's zero reason to need serious foot retention while commuting, and there are situations where it may even be troublesome. just use platforms.
>>924357
>I'm that guy who has been commuting by bike for over 20 years
Ha. That was me until last year. Talking shit about the freds and their stupid gear. I've been riding since the mid 80s, sometimes on platforms, sometimes on platforms with clips.
I upgraded my bike last spring and my brother talked me into trying clipless. What a fool I was for thinking I knew better.
But don't let me force you. From what I understand, a lot of people have embarrassing and dangerous accidents when they switch. Not me. Had a panic moment once on my second ride but managed to keep it together.
But some people are just more adaptable than others and it may not be for you. I didn't have any trouble learning stick shift either, and yet some find it stressful and intimidating.
>>924361
I use clipless as well, mate. Just not for commuting.
>>924362
I don't race at all. I don't do "road riding" in the sense of lycra packs on rural roads. My reason for using clipless is commuting in a dense city. Point A to Point B on MTB pedals. I have no trouble with them and would never dream of going back to platforms.
I really think this comes down to adaptability. If you struggle to get clipped in at an intersection, you're not well adapted to it. Especially if you think it's harder than toe clips, which are a nightmare at intersections.
>>924367
I think it depends on what type of pedal you use, too. Dual sided SPDs? Ez pz from the get go. I've also been using SPD-SLs on my other bike for a few months now and still regularly fumble the clip-in like a retard.
>>924362
>Ride plastic platform pedals
>it's raining
>ride out of saddle
>foot slips
>smashes jewels
Neveragain.jpg
>>924372
>carrying jewels on a bike
can i get a recommendation for some good cliplesspedals that can be ridden reasonably well in street shoes?
>>924394
half platform/SPD pedals are going to be your best option
Bib shorts shouldn't really be wearing out in 6-7 months, should they? Looking at strava estimates puts just over 2000 km on each pair, and one has completely worn through a section where the rear of the chammy joins the rest of the short, the others seem to be on the way out in the same area.
Wonder if my saddlebag has been rubbing them or something.
>>924398
What kind of saddle are you using? If you're riding something with a rougher texture that could be causing your problem.
>>924395
recommended models?
>>924399
https://www.avantiplus.com.au/products/ze460a123/title/zero-zenith-pro-saddle
Just the standard thing that came with the bike, smooth plastic.
No tony martin sandpaper here.
>>924400
http://www.wiggle.com.au/shimano-a530-spd-single-sided-touring-pedals/
These are the ones in that pic.
>>924405
Castelli Volo, pretty mid-range.
>>924400
I rate the M424, works fine in regular shoes and really easy to get into. M545 is the alloy version.
>>924405
>Don't even think about any of the Wellgo copies of the same, they have crappy bearings.
tfw I have "Lifeline" SPD pedals and the bearings are stiff as fuck
Is there anything I can do about it?
>>924462
http://www.wiggle.co.uk/lifeline-essential-hybrid-touring-pedals-spd-compatible/
These ones. They have been good enough otherwise, both with regular shoes and SPDs.
hey guys,
I got a specialized stumpjumper m2 from 93 (?)
for 20 €
the previous owner spraypainted the frame black in a very shitty way with the purple coming through in some places.
I'm a sucker for straight forks and would like to get one for this bike .
I've red online that it has a 1 1/8 steerer.
dose that mean I could just buy a straight 1 1/8 fork and slap a new stem on while I'm at it ?
the current stem looks like one for a threaded headset.
any tips ?
also, the saddle says something like specialized comp.
that's good right ?
>>924478
I think you could be able to remove the spray paint and recover that sweet sweet original paintjob. And please don't ruin it with a straight fork, that shitty fixie look just doesn't go with 90s rigid MTBs.
>>924480
>straight forks are only fixies
lolno
>>924478
nice find, I grew up in california, this really hot chick in the 7th grade, and her twin brother, had a matching pair of those stump jumpers in that color, and I've secretly wanted one ever since. I just had a shitty paramount (which in retrospect was a great bike but kids never appreciate anything)
I am too much of a fred to go looking for one now but I'm kind of jelly.
but seriously though, don't put a straight fork on it, you'll fuck up the geometry and that original fork looks great
>>924481
>straight forks are only fixies
But I didn't say that. I said it gives a fixie look which is probably what the other guy wants to go for.
Why do casuals ride mountain bikes with knobbly tyres when they never go offroad?
>>924483
Probably came with the bike and they could ride years before actually needing to replace them.
>>924484
Why don't they buy hybrids instead? The city near me has netherlands-tier cycle lanes yet I see casuals riding mountain bikes on them all the time. Weird desu
>>924482
>it gives it a fixie look
it has a triple crankset, wires everywhere, fat knobby tires, flat bars, cantis, and a bushy metal pube bush on the back wheel
how can changing the fork geometry POSSIBLY give it a "fixie look"
like, where did you even get this?
>>924485
because /n/ told them hybrids are the devil and they believed it
>>924487
I have a hybrid and apart from shitty 7 speed I like it.
>>924486
You know what I mean. It's like that guy who put pursuit bullhorns on his 90s rigid MTB, he obviously wanted it to look as kewl as his fixie friends. I'm not saying it disguises the complete bike as a fixie or something.
>>924490
I don't know who "that guy" is and I don't see what's obvious about it. I had bullhorns on my mountain bike in the late 90s before I even knew what a fixie was. Bullhorns are fully consistent with 90s MTB equipment, and you are inordinately preoccupied with proving you're not one of those uncool fixie people.
It's ok, we're all anonymous here. Nobody thought you were uncool.
How do you cope with hills when you're cycle touring? Surely with so much weight you'll die?
>>924492
That's why touring bikes have large gear ranges. You shift down and spin up.
>>924493
Fair enough
Hey guys, anyone ever made drillium fenders?
I'd think if you make the holes small enough, the surface tension of water would keep it inside the fenders even with the holes.
>>924498
You probably don't have to worry about surface tnesion and what not. The fender doesn't have to block the water 'jet' completely - just slow it down and break it up enough that it doesn't reach your back, and even non-goretex size holes will do that just fine.
However...
The number one problem with fenders is that they are far to flimsy and keep getting out of true. Drilling them just seems retarded.
If you want the lightest weight solution possible, look into brush fenders that catch the worst of the water before it follows the tyre all the way around and sprays you in the face.
>>924500
>The number one problem with fenders is that they are far to flimsy and keep getting out of true
So fucking true.
Got some SKS longboards.
Great at keeping your legs dry etc but fuck me
>cunts to puts on
>too flexible and not straight
>wobble like fuck
>really hard to get them in a sweet spot
etcetc
Not getting plastic fenders again. Will get some VO metal ones or w/e next time.
>>924485
Why do people drive 4x4 V8 cars to get groceries and commuting?
>look at me I'm hardcore offroad adventuring badass, I encountered a speedbump AND a pothole!!
>>924502
I don't know. I can see the appeal of having a big boot. But you can just buy an estate car for that.
Farmers are the only people that use 4x4s for their purpose. Probably why most farmers have Land Rover Defenders.
>>924480
that thought crossed my mind but how would i do it ?
>>924480
also regarding the straight fork, I was more coming from something like this
although I don't dig the paintjob
>>924500
That's ugly as fuck.
I was thinking drilling the sides and leaving the middle full for structure. But full fenders like VO are pretty solid.
>>924501
the trueness of the fender is largely a function of the struts, not the fender itself
plastic and metal on the same struts will be about the same truthiness, the difference being that plastic can get banged around a bit and it doesn't get dented or creased
>>924478
Those rigid MTB forks are usually the same length as a CX fork (~400mm)
You can (and I have) take a DISC cx fork, slap it on there, and get a disc wheel in the front.
This fork from somafab will probably work for what you're thinking.
Running dick brake in the front and canti in the back is sorta lame so I'd upgrade the back to V-brake. You'll need long-pull levers too. Big $$$ for a stupid project but you get better braking
http://www.somafab.com/archives/product/cro-mo-cyclo-cross-straight-blade-disc-fork
>>924478
Oh yeah, and you'll have to see if it's 1" threaded or 1 1/8" threaded.
If it's 1" you'll have a hard time finding a disc fork
if its 1 1/8 then you will not have to look hard
Both options would require a new, threadless headset... another headache
Just keep the fork that is on there, upgrade kool stop pads, maybe V brakes if you want to spend some money. old MTBs are a cheap option and are cool, no reason to spend the money on this idea unless a 1" threaded straight-blade canti mtb fork exists on ebay somewhere
>>924523
your probably right.
I didn't even know that 1 1/8 threaded headsets existed.
maybe if a nice fork flys by on ebay for cheap I'll upgrade , until then I'll keep the original
>>924521
Particularna the bracing angle of the struts. One 4mm steel rod is very much like the other in all the relevant respects, but what makes it sometimes work sort of well and other times not at all is the bracing angles.
"Good" bikes tend to be slim and narrow, offering poor angles and fenders will be utter shit, even if the frame is equippedf ro eyelets for them. Most endurance roadbikes and "CX" bikes fall into this category; they take fenders - technically - but you wont want them on more than necessary.
>>924546
u wut
>>924547
A 'V' structure with a wide base is much more stable than a narrow one.
>>924554
>i dont know what OLD is
>>924556
what?
>>924559
It's something you don't know.
>>924556
> does not know where fenders mount
And, pray tell, what does locknut distance have to do with fender mounts? Unless you mount your fenders to you axles, but you're pretty much alone with that one.
Taking a rules to the bikes on the wall here at home, my tourer has about 180mm between rear fender mount points. These are ment to be usable.
The mountainbikes and roadbike (if the roadie had any) have about 145-150mm. These are ... not so much ment to be used.
>>924562
Ruler. Taking a ruler. Fucking autouncorrect. My first hybrid was way wider than the current tourer, by the way. Those fenders and panniers were rock solid.
>>924478
Somewhat similar situation here in Texas, just not as good of a bike. I bought a Hardrock. Just changed the tires, getting clipless pedals....suggestions for saddles? 90's mtbs have a specific look
>>924562
>does not know where fenders mount
Are you serious?
>Taking a rules to the bikes on the wall here at home, my tourer has about 180mm between rear fender mount points. These are ment to be usable.
Now you've really got to be shitting me.
>>924562
>my fender mounting points stick out an inch from the dropout
>>924571
We need a pictures of his mount points. No idea wtf he's on about.
>all these cryptic angry replies
today I learned there are people who actually get irrationally butthurt and defensive over the exact geometry of their particular fender mounts
Ass hurts after riding 20 miles. New saddle, padded shorts or both?
>>924595
with that little time involved, it's definitely the saddle that's causing you problems
>>924595
New riding position and more time in the saddle. Then maybe new saddle.
I have a kinda interview type thing tomorrow at a bike shop where I have to assemble a new bike in an hour. I've never assembled a new bike before, what will I have to do? Will the BB and Headset already be installed? What else?
Pls help i am nervous
>>923093
You should have just bought a stick on chrome/aluminum chainstay protector.
They cover the paint, solve your problem, and look period correct
Should I put current power or 5s power on my display?
>>924600
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eOI0mb3X7N8
>>924602
IIRC gcn said 3 or 5s, instant power is very volatile.
>>924600
Everything is quite intuitive until you get to the point where you have to build a wheel
>>924610
no idea if there are exceptions, but usually they come needing to be installed
>>924610
Modern headsets are not threaded, pretty much fit the shapes game. Bb is intuitive if they are threaded, never worked with pressfit. Most bikes that come in boxes are supposed to have everything on it already installed, you just have to put handlebars in place and seatpost. It might be up to the store to make you disassemble and regrease
Forget about panniers for a second, I had an idea re carrying stuff while on bikes. What if we used those old external frame hiking backpacks instead of normal "soft" backpacks? I was thinking, an external frame would put a bit of space between one's back and the bag itself, therefore allowing air circulation. A second beneficial aspect would be the hardness of the shape preventing rounding of the back, which is poor riding form. I've seen some such frames ~40 L in capacity or less, which is ideal for commuting and shit.
Is this absolutely retarded or absolutely genius?
>>924618
People are already making backpacks with some kind of spacing system, so you're not alone in your madness.
I got a hand me down cannondale and it has a dime size dent at the red circle. It's an aluminum frame so is the bike trashed?
>>924657
If it is a vintage cdale, they had such thick chainstays that peoples heels would hit them and dent them. You will often try to see people unload them once dented.
>>924657
>>924658
Previous anon is kidding, the chainstay divots on 80's 'Dales were that way from the factory.
Just out of interest, if you were buying a single mountain bike, what type would you get? Would it depend on the trails near where you live?
Say, a traditional XC hardtail?
Enduro full sus to do a bit of everything?
Downhill sled because fuck pedalling?
Or something else?
>>924711
XC hardtail. Unless you don't actually care about going anywhere.
>>924571
Pretty much this, yes. It looks more like 20 in the pic, but that's only because the end of the ruler is resting on the rack strut and not the fender strut. They sit inboard almost a centimetre on each side.
I had no idea this shit could make anyone buthurt. And seconding anon above, /n can be so fucking bike illiterate at times, it hurts.
>>924753
That has nothing to do with that it's a touring bike, and everything to do with the fact that you're measuing a disc bike with adjustable dropouts. I seriously doubt your hybrid was "even wider"
Oh, there's also the fact that you're not actually measuring where the fenders mount, you're measuring a spaced out rack, which appears to be at 30 and 195 on the ruler, meaning 165mm.
>>924569
See this shit?
I understand now that you've only ever been exposed to the lower type fender/rack mount throughout your life, but that's what you get for only buying stolen wrecks from CL. I feel for you.
Same shit up front. Fancy endurance roadbikes come with shitty "hidden" fender mounts on the _inside_ of the fork, making the effective spacing pretty fucking close to 100mm, or even ever so slightly less. That will be one fiddly front fender.
Others mount their front fender behind- and to the outside of the fork blades, or even better - halfway up and completely to the outside.
That's why you see all these carbon forks with mid-fork mounts that aren't ment to carry any load. They're just there to make fenders actualy usefull.
See Genesis CdA for an example.
>>924754
No, it's at zero. The one at thirty is below the rack strut its resting on. The rack struts are 200mm apart, and the fender struts are abut 180mm, or slightly more.
You can doubt all you want, or look at >>924755 and see there are way more variations to this. Not to mention the cast, 3D dropout found on some hybrids that build a tonne.
>>924755
>Fancy endurance roadbikes come with shitty "hidden" fender mounts on the _inside_ of the fork
Only some do
>making the effective spacing pretty fucking close to 100mm
Then they must be pretty high up the seat stays, which improves bracing angle.
Your opinion is cherry picked garbage.
>>924756
You seriously think I can't see the silver fender struts in the pic?
>3D dropout found on some hybrids that build a tonne
Not common, and has nothing to do with it being a hybrid or a touring bike as you asserted, claiming "good" bikes couldn't have fenders because they're "slim and narrow". It's entirely based on dropout design and OLD.
>>924758
>I fail at read.
I'll go through it very slowly. The black struts are, as I've been saying, the rack struts. They are 200mm apart. The silver ones are the fender struts, and they are almost 10mm inboard on both sides, because the rack mount builds outboard that much.
Also, read the right scale. The top one in the pic.
>>924757
I didn't say all did. I said 'fancy' ones do. I specifically said 'others' do it differently, giving examples.
I also never said my bikes fender spacing was a feature of touring bikes. I said it was my touring bike, and it had this spacing.
It has nothing to do with cherry picking, just pointing out that "good" bikes tend to have the narrower mounts that make using fenders a bitch. And some of the fancy dentist ones are even worse.
You people.
>>924755
>good bikes dont have good fender mounts
>bad bikes dont have good fender mounts
>it has to be a special kind of shitty hybrid with cast 3d dropouts or a disc touring bike with adjustable dropouts to have good fender mounts which i exaggerated
Nice flip floppin
>>924618
Large kitty litter containers (the plastic ones)
Old army surplus bags
I've seen both used effectively. Kitty litter will be a major aero-killer though
>>924761
>I'll go through it very slowly. The black struts are, as I've been saying, the rack struts. They are 200mm apart. The silver ones are the fender struts, and they are almost 10mm inboard on both sides, because the rack mount builds outboard that much. Also, read the right scale. The top one in the pic.
195 and 30, you dumb illiterate fuck.
>>924765
Yes, that looks like 180mm to me. I bet the hybrid is even wider than 180mm, no bullshit here.
>>924765
Nigga, please. Read the right scale.
Remember, the angle means the lower strut you see at '30' is not the one its resting on. The top one, that you see at '200' at the other end, is at '0'.
>>924769
>im just going to move the ruler between shots
>>924768
It's taken at an angle you dense fuck. Because the fender struts are far below the carrier struts, it looks like they're 30mm a part. Do you even think that shits possible? What, the carrier is spaced 30mm outboard?
Notice how theyre only spaced 3mm apart on the right side of your pic? Same effect, but lesser because perspective, and in the other direction.
>>924763
Some bikes have good mounts. Most have bad mounts. Road bikes and mountainbikes tend to have worse mounts than others. Bikes ment to carry load, hybrid and tourers, sometimes have realy good ones. Cargo bikes sometimes have realy, realy good, welded racks.
>This is hard to grasp.
>>924771
Wow, so you mean it looks like its closer on one side and farther on the other side
>>924772
>sometimes
>but it cant be good
>or bad
Basically your original statement was shit, and you have to backpedal and move the goalposts. All your statement is now is some bikes have better fender mounts than others with a dubious correlation to how good or bad it is. Wow. So insightful.
>>924773
That is how perspective works, yes. By the way, do you by any chance think the moonlanding too was a hoax based on your expert photoanalysis?
>>924775
>im going to take a shitty picture that doesnt illustrate my point at all but im going to claim it is solid proof but when someone points out it doesnt actually prove my point i just point out its a shitty pic that doesnt prove anything
>that will show him
Good job
>arguing about fender mounting geometry endlessly
what the hell guys
>>924776
It's not my fault you take random reference points and have no concept of perspective. If you want an "unfakeable" ballpark reference, notice how it lines up with the quickrelease. Go measure one.
That bulb is exactly 2cm high on the QR that comes with the XT-8000 rear hub.
>>924779
It quite literally is your fault because you can't take a photograph to prove your point.
anybody ever use this? it's got great reviews. might try 'em for light use in between serious cleanings this winter
>>924792
It was kind of messy and used up lots and lots of degreaser. Mine cracked and I haven't bought a new one. Running the chain through a rag it quicker, makes less of a mess.
Spraying through the links down on the rag with WD40 or similar works just as well as the machine and is also less messy.
>>924792
Those are over-complicated and messy - as previous anon says all you really need for quick cleaning is a rag, and for serious cleaning you're better off taking the chain off the bike and dropping it in a jar full of kerosene.
i guess i got my chain too short, the shifting isn't that good on the rear and front. how do i determine if its too short? i can shift up all cogs in the rear and front, but the perfomance seems to be decreased and the RD looks too far stretched out compared to the previous chain that has been used. Used a KMC missing link this time so i guess i got the chain perhaps 1 link too short, could that interfere somehow?
>>924810
You don't with the rag. That's what the sprayed solvent is for.
To be fair, the machine doesn't get the dirt inside the chain either. It just brushes it realy clean on the outside, and leasves lots of seeped in degreaser inside that flushes the lubricant right off in the first ride through rain.
Open your quick link after a clean in that machine and see how clean it is between the plates an in the rollers.
Drowning the chain in lubricant and going for a short ride seems to do a pretty good job of letting the grub work its way out of the links too. Then you wipe off the gunk that came out.
>>924817
I use paint thinner and it works great. If you travel in developing countries, they use thinner as a degreaser. No chance of it staying on the chain as it will evaporate in a couple hours. It's like $5 per gallon. Some say it's too strong but I've never had a chain rust on me.
>>924817
>the machine doesn't get the dirt inside the chain either
it doesn't get all of it but it gets a hell of a lot more than a rag
>Open your quick link after a clean in that machine and see how clean it is between the plates an in the rollers.
It's a lot cleaner than it was before because I do it the proper way: 100 turns, then let it sit for 10 minutes, then 100 turns, change the degreaser, then 100 more turns, then toothbrush, then 100 turns with hot soapy water, then 100 turns with hot clean water, then dry and relube.
Short of ShelBroCo or an ultrasonic cleaner, that's about as good as it's going to get.
>It's a lot cleaner than it was before because I do it the proper way: 100 turns, then let it sit for 10 minutes, then 100 turns, change the degreaser, then 100 more turns, then toothbrush, then 100 turns with hot soapy water, then 100 turns with hot clean water, then dry and relube.
You know, a Chain is meant to die. There is no need to give it a special Cleaning. Just get a towel and water and be done with it. If there is shit stuck between the links like sand you may want to use a Brush but thats totally it. You'll replace the chain anyway, who cares if it lasts 100km longer?
>>924836
because of my autism
also why are we not arguing angrily about fender strut mounting holes anymore? that was fun
>>924846
Kek
>>923091
anyone here carry guitar amps on a bike? Possible on a regular bike rack or do you carry it with a trailer?
SO I UNDID THE BOLT TO LOWER MY QUILL STEM BUT NOW I CAN'T ALIGN MY STEM WITH MY FRONT WHEEL IT'S ALWAYS OFF TO EITHER THE LEFT OR THE RIGHT WHAT THE FUCK /N/ I AM CONSIDERING TAKING IT TO A FUCKING LBS TO FIX IT HOLY SHIT THIS IS THE MOST ANNOYING SHIT EVER FUCK
>>924959
Put a rod, or anything long and flat into the fork dropouts so its length is perpendicular to the bike, then align the flats of your handlebars with that as a visual aid.
>>924969
gj anon, hope you get the job
I ride a nishiki Pueblo with road tires used to handle loose gravel at the worse. Everything else stock.
How largely would the ease of pedaling be affected if I were to purchase a $400+ road bike (or hybrid)? I bike about 16 miles a day for work, including elevation, and have no riding gear. I'm too poor to afford things like that, or a car. At the moment.
But I might still save up for a decent bike because I'm fairly sure this thing belongs in the trash
>>925015
You might gain 3-4 km/h on the flats. On the hills it depends a lot, quick google says that thing is around 15 kg, so an entry level aluminium bike would probably be a few kilos lighter.
But really, does it shift and stop when you tell it to?
Will a matching jersey win me the respect of my fellow cyclists passing on the road, or should I keep wearing tank tops in a protest towards the norm?
Any suggestions on what kind of jersey I shouldn't get would be helpful.
>>925016
Yes. So all I need to do is simply pedal harder until regular pedaling is easy. Any bike is easy once you stop being a pussy, imo
>>925023
There's a fine line between being a pussy and flying 10ft over your handlebars into traffic (I would know)
>>925022
Wear whatever you like. Tank top might make people think you're a triathlete or something but who cares.
It probably doesn't have pockets on the back though like jerseys which are great for phone/snacks/etc.
The only thing I'd say avoid is "trophy" jerseys like the yellow/pink/polkadot/wc stripes. Bit presumptuous.
So I'm buying a bike on Craigslist this weekend. The owner says he's only ridden it 40 miles. It's a Cannondale Super Six 2012 bike, seems like a good deal for $800. What should I look for on the bike, and feel for when I try it out? Any other advice on buying used? Thanks y'all
>>925063
>seems like a good deal for $800
Maybe if it was brand new with warranty and whatnot. $800 for a used bike is insane.
>>925063
Take it to a bike store and get them to look it over.
>>925065
Well it's 2300 retail price and it comes with pedals, shoes, and a nice trainer
>>925077
And it basically it's new from what I could see, this guy rode it once. You think I should talk him down a bit for it being 4 years old?
>>925077
Who cares what it retailed for? What does a similar, full carbon, SRAM Apex, R501 wheels bike retail for today? That's the interesting question.
The fact that first few generations anything from several years ago was incrediblly expensive doesn't mean that retail dollar number is anything but a number.
Repeat after me: price is not a technical feature. Doubly so for out of date price.
>>925083
I think I'm gonna try to talk him down to 700 since its a 4 year old bike. The only thing I don't like is that it's carbon, and that'd be all I own. I don't want to only own a carbon bike and be a massive fag
>>925101
The whole point of the Super Six is its <700g carbon frame. If that's not your thing it's completely pointless. It going to give more flex, be more brittle, and without WW component upgrades be a bit of a waste; you'll end up with a bike that is about as heavy as any other bike, but with all the downsides of a flimsy super light-weight frame.
You can get fantastic bikes for $800 brand new. If the used one you're looking to buy isn't even what you want .. what the hell, bro?
>>925103
Higher mod light frames are stiffer. Tuning a frame for ride quality usually adds weight
>>925103
>The whole point of the Super Six is its <700g carbon frame
I don't think he's looking at a Hi-Mod
>>925107
It's not just a matter of tuning, but of trading strength/stiffness for weight. If you take away material you'll end up with a less stiff construction, all else being equal. When you move to extremely light cnstructions, they are going to be weak.
This gets realy bad with light aero bikes that can't even maintain a structually optimal geometry, but have to make tradeoffs to aerodynamics as well.
Tour does interesting tests of this. The Cannondale 700g frame is one of the stiffer light frames, but is of course not very rigid in absolute term - not taking it's weight in account.
>>925114
Citation needed because last time I checked those tests shows hi mod frames being lighter and stiffer. With the layup a required to make frames strong enough to ride they end up very stiff.
Opposed to lower mod frames that end up strong enough to ride at much lower stiffness and require extra material to make them stiff.
A low weight hi mod frame is going to be stiffer than a low mod frame unless the layup for the low mod frame was specifically designed for stiffness. And the hi mod frame would be just as stiff.
In fact it's common on weight weenies to complain about the harsh ride quality of super light frames.
Carbon is not steel or aluminum or titanium. The modulus of elasticity changes from one carbon to another.
So to sum this, if I could get the supersix for 700 or less, with a trainer, fitting shoes and a nice helmet, should I take the deal? or should I shoot for 600? It would be my first road bike and I'm not exactly sure if I want carbon or some alloy. This is basically the best deal I've found, carbon or alloy or whichever
>>925116
I didn't say hi-mod isn't stiffer. I said a 1kg frame will be stiffer than a 700g one - all else being equal. All else includes the type of fiber used.
For what it's worth, steel isn't steel either. Some steels (and pipe manufacturing methods) are stronger/stiffer/softer/longer lived than others. The same is true of aluminium, but unfortunate fatigue characteristics mean you always have to build them stiff as girders unless theyre going to have extremely short service lives.
>>925118
If you realy want it, go for it. But I don't think you couldn't have looked very hard if this is the best deal you could find - but then again you haven't defined any criteria.
For a first roadie I'd say the standard alu-frame-with-carbon-fork and 10spd drivetrain is perfectly reasonable, and you should have loads of such bike to chose from at around that price. Both used and new.
>>925121
But that's not the question and that's not what you implied. You implied a hi mod 700g frame is less stiff than a low mod 1000g frame
>>925121
And also all steel is as stiff as other steel. You are just showing how clueless you
>>925125
Ehm, yes, but no. Steels have drasticaly different yield stress values, and this it what determines how much you can allow it to flex - and as a result, how much you have to use to get the service life you need - and again, in turn how stiff/light the construction will be. Kind of like different carbon fibre types.
>>925129
You keep on pulling red herrings that have nothing to do with your original bullshit line.
>Steels have drasticaly different yield stress values, and this it what determines how much you can allow it to flex - and as a result, how much you have to use to get the service life you need
Shows a complete lack of understanding as to how steel tubes for bikes are designed.
>>925122
Well I'm trying to find a bike for my size, which is either 59-60cm so used is hard to come by. I really don't have too many other criteria other than that I'd prefer 105s, but that's not a big deal really. No used bikes in my area have the right size. I went shopping at just about every LBS and the best deal I could find was a Felt bike for around 1200 that for my needs
>>925132
>Brings steel alloys into the discussion, contrasting them with superior configurable CF
>Steel is a red herring pulled by the evil opponent
It must be hard to be you.
