Time for a new thread, last one is past bump limit.
I'm a fat fuck and I came into possession of an old Giant OCR that I would like to ride for exercise. The stock saddle hurts I can't use it for more than 5-10 minutes. Is there a standard recommendation for a fat newbie seat?
Same guy who just bought a pair of Schwalbe marathon plus from the previous thread.
Holy fucking shit, it's absolutely impossible to fit those tires. I broke my nails and worked my fingers until they bled, used the techniques shown on those youtube videos and still no results.
Compared to that, fitting a regular tire is a joke.
I gave up, I think I'm going to bring my wheels to my local bike shop, this shit is impssible.
>>920471
buy a saddle which supports your sitbones and gets out of the way otherwise. the saddle height and setback needs to be adjusted appropriately such that it acts as a 'perch' or a platform, allowing you to carry a significant amount of weight on the pedals. take into account your range of motion/flexibility/functional bike posture, &c.
pay for a good bike fit
>mfw lbs shill
>>920473
did you invert your tire levers to get the other bead on? did you buy the right size tire?
>>920473
Get some nylon tire levers and fit them without the tube, leave them on for a day. After you've got them on once they soften up quite a bit. You might even need somebody to hold down two levers while you push with a third middle one. If you think schwalbes are bad try panaracer gravel kings, Christ.
>>920473
>used the techniques shown on those youtube videos and still no results.
Maybe you just didn't have enough patience. This method works wonders if you do it right.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-XUFVrl0UT4
>>920473
Schwalbe QA is shit. You could have one with the wrong diameter. It's not unheard of.
>>920471
SMP TRK
would there be a huge advantage in shiftperfomance by replacing a 105 RD (5800) with a Dura ace (9000) RD?
>>920516
Yup. But before shelling out the big bucks why not buy some premium cables? Some sealed gore tex cables with full housing will make shifting buttery smooth. I personally wouldn't bother with ultegra or dura ace unless racing.
>>920525
thats the point, i am about to compete in a race (not my first one) and i am actually not that much satisfied with my RD. Though i don't see a reason to replace the Brifters, but the RD. Thanks for the cable advise, i was already trying out yokuzuna and nokon and i barely felt any real perfomance improvement at all
>>920526
Tbh if you're not actually happy with the 105 mech, I'm not sure upgrading it is the answer. Many people race on 105 and are content with it, and if set up correctly it should be smooth and precise. How are your chain and cassette looking? Sounds like an ultegra di2 rear mech and brifters could be what you're looking for?
>>920527
my rd actually shifts smooth and precise, but it just doesn't satisfy me and i was wondering if the DA RD would improve the shifting a bit. Di2 isn't really a choice for now, i really need to ride for a month or so with a Di2 bike to make my mind
>>920528
so how would you describe the difference between the RDs? i heard the FDs are two worlds apart
>>920525
You mean nope
>>920526
No, the RD is functionally the same, unless your RD is so worn out it has lots of slop. The only real difference is about 70g.
You are misidentifying a problem as being the RD. It could be one of several things, but it is not that the RD is not Dura Ace. Your hanger could be bent, the RD pivots could be gritty, the cables could be dirty, the chain or cassette might be worn, your cassette might be a little loose, adjustment could be off. All of these things could have an effect on rear shifting. It's not that your RD is 105 though.
Yokozuna and Nokon only make a big difference for braking, and for Nokon, also tight cable bends. Otherwise they're not any slicker than any other cable housings. What may make a difference is the Dura Ace textured polymer coated cables, which are a slight improvement over the optislick cables included with 5800. Both of them are a significant improvement over plain stainless slick cables. If you replaced your inners when you changed housing, that would degrade shifting performance.
>>920530
I can't tell the difference between 5800 and 9000 RD, at all. It even sounds the same.
>>920528
It sounds like your old FD was either dirty, or incorrectly set up, since these FDs have two different ways to mount the cables and are in general pretty finicky. It could be that your old one was simply not set up correctly.
>>920530
>my rd actually shifts smooth and precise, but it just doesn't satisfy me
Why are you complaining? If you have weak little girl fingers, get Di2.
So i'm looking for a bike that I can commute with and to go on long distance tours. I've seen a Genesis Croix de Fer 2015 model for £530. Is this a good deal? Is this bike suitable for touring? Cheers.
>>920537
If it's suitable for Indiana Jones, it's probably good enough for some adventure riding.
>>920537
Yeah it's a good deal. The bike held the round the world speed record for a time which is all you really need to know.
I just came across the Windsor Knight and was wondering what you guys thought.
I know
>Shitty brand
>Heavy wheels
>Shit brakes
>Literally bikesdirect
But it has Ultegra drive train for $800!
http://www.bikesdirect.com/products/windsor/knight_x.htm
no shill
How much practice did you need before you got good at wrapping bar tape?
I did my first try last fall and made an utter mess of it. I took it to the shop to fix but now I'm regretting the color and I want something more subdued. But I'm ashamed to take it back because the mechanic is a qt grill and I don't want her to think I'm a fickle fred.
>>920559
Just get a forgiving bike tape and fuck around until you get it right. My first time didn't turn out too bad, even though it took me forever because I had to keep unwrapping and rewrapping.
I think RJ the bike guy has a pretty decent video on wrapping bar tape if you need the extra help.
>>920559
get some bontager tape, desu it sucks ass but you can wrap and rewrap to practice... I rewraped mine about 10 times before I decided it was just junk... It would loosen up after 2-3 weeks no matter how tight I got it.
>>920560
What's a forgiving tape that isn't shit? I watched a video of them doing it with Zipp Service Course and it looks dead easy, but then, that's what I thought before I tried wrapping Fizik. Any idea how Fizik rates on a difficulty scale?
>>920561
I'd rather avoid "sucks ass" tape but I am starting to wonder if there is an inverse relationship between "good" and "easy to wrap". Is it just thickness that makes it harder, or something else?
>>920566
It's mostly the adhesive used on the tape. Fizik probably isn't the least forgiving tape, but it's definitely not the most.
Like >>920561 said bontager is pretty forgiving. I'd also look into getting some cheap SRAM tape just to practice with. It looks like shit with the logos everywhere, but it's so cheap that you can just buy it for practice and use the desired tape after you git gud. It'd probably be worth it just to practice the final cut and taping process. That way you can practice the angle of the cut and such without sacrificing length off of a more expensive tape.
>>920549
meh
without knowing what you want out of it, who can say if it's the right choice
but you'd probably want to replace the calipers and the pedals immediately. maybe the saddle too.
>>920568
>>920566
Bartape can be difficult to wrap for a variety of reasons: it can tear easily, have too much adhesive, it can be very stiff, or it can be floppy.
Fizik tape is easy to work with, it's slightly stiff and you may have to re-wrap a few times to get perfect coverage without gaps, but it's quite forgiving to work with while you get it 'just right'.
>>920566
You need to pull on the tape, especially around the curves.
I recently bought a pair of used 105 crank arms, and the other day I went and picked up a used campy 30T ring for it. It's the proper BCD but i dont seem to be able to get the 5th bolt to go in straight, like the hole is just ever so slightly off the mark.
Can I get away with just riding it with 4 chainring bolts holding it in place?
Pic related is the double version of the crank in question
>>920618
It would help if you posted an actual picture of the parts instead of posting about a triple, but posting a crank that isn't a triple.
>>920473
Sounds like the Marathon Winters I was fitting to a friends bike, having four hands and some tire levers was useful for sure
Might as well not bother with carrying patches, levers etc with you, you wouldn't be able to do anything with them on the road...
>>920471
IMO you feel the saddle most if it's too low or your handlebars are too high. Your weight should be distributed between the saddle, handlebars and the pedals, instead of just sitting on the saddle like a chair.
But yeah some saddles are just not made for humans.
>>920620
can't really get a clear shot through the hole into the crank's hole, visual aid won't do much
All I need to know is, are 4 bolts enough to hold on a 5 bolt inner ring?
>>920627
No
>>920627
you could use a zip tie for the 5th bolt
>>920627
>>920635
Try to get all bolts in at one time, then tighten them up a bit at a time to see if you can spread that misalignment enough to be able to evenly secure the ring.
If that doesn't work (and it probably won't) then fitting the 4 bolts as best you can and sending if to a machine shop that can drill out the 5th hole and fit a helicoil is another possibility.
If neither of those 2 things can be done, then it doesn't look too good, but maybe some other anons have some ideas too.
If you decide on zip ties, please tell your family to start saving for your medical bills or casket, also fit a gopro to your bike so we can see your glorious spill on /n/.
P.S. Try to do a cool flip when you do crash, it'll look awesome.
When buying shoes, how well should they fit? Is it worth going a size or two bigger to match colors(i.e. white bike, white shoes)?
Give me ideas on quick release bottle cages
I have a cross bike but cba to install/uninstall them when riding different disciplines
Anyone got suggestions for an mp3 player for on the bike that can take a bit of rain and doesn't cost a fortune?
Shitstorm avoidance disclaimer: I'll only be using one earphone for safety reasons and don't ride in the CBD,
>>920639
Shoes that don't fit are worthless, if they don't fit right you'll end up with foot pain, and possibly worse problems from your pedaling with a twist in your knees or ankles.
>>920642
mount the bottles to your head, see pic
>>920645
I use a Sansa Clip from a few years back - very basic, but compact and sufficient for riding.
>>920642
They have cageless bottles that hook onto to special bolts, they have magnetic bottles, and if you don't mind seatpost or handlebar bottles, they have quick release clamp on ones.
>>920650
>Sansa Clip
Not water resistant m8e, but thanks. I do hear good things about them though, I was looking at pic related too but that you can't even shake a dewy leaf at that either.
Maybe using some sort of waterproof pouch with my phone as a player may be the way to go, but routing the earphones out will surely compromise the water seal??
I got a top tube bag for my bike, with velcro straps for mounting. The straps are long compared to the circumference of my top tube, so that when they're threaded through the bag and around the tube, the bit with the hooks at the end of the strap overshoots the rest of the strap with the loops. It overshoots by so much that I wonder what kind of freak top tube actually fits.
Is there a trick to mounting these things, or do I just need shorter straps?
>>920660
pics would be very helpful anon.
>>920656
How much rain are you dealing with? A ziploc will keep a phone or mp3 player almost 100% dry in your use case unless you frequently ride in SE Asia-tier squalls. If it'd be fine in the bathroom during a shower, it'll be fine in a plastic bag.
>>920663
That's the bag in question:
http://www.roswheel.eu/roswheel-shop/all-items/new-full-colour-phone-frame-bag-including-free-waterproof-rain-cover
Turns out that the oversized strap was intended to hook both the top tube and the down tube, and in my bike they're too far apart for the strap. I can make everything sort of hold together, but it still wobbles and the stem rubs against the bag as it turns.
>>920668
That sucks man, I hope you find a way to modify it that works for you, but if it won't work then you might be better off getting a refund and going into your LBS and test fitting a few to see what actually works.
>Inb4 LBS shill
>>920671
>lbs shill
>>920668
You can either fold the velcro on itself to make the strap shorter by folding over the strap where it changes from fuzz to hooks, or if you can safely velcro it already, you can just cut the strap and remelt the end with a lighter. Those bags tend to not be that stable in general, but you might try to replace the band with a shoestring or something not very stretchy.
>>920656
Quite a lot of jerseys and jackets have water proof zip pockets in the back. I use a cheap, light Chinese mp3 player and have never had a problems.
>>920656
get some bluetooth sports earphones, those are usual water resistant
Citybikefag here. I am currently on a 6-speed cassette and 42-34-24. On clear conditions and plain road I only use 42-16/18, for whatever hard climbing the 34-16/18. I am finding it alright if it wasn't for one problem: 42-16 limits top speed on plain road a lot, and when cruising town you have a lot of sudden stops, so unless you see it coming and shift to 18 you have to restart on 42-16 and that shit is heavy. I am considering moving up to 48-38-28, because 48 would grant me all the top speed I need, 38 sounds like the sweet spot to cruise town, and 28 is fine for climbing.
>>920711
Just get a compact double
>>920712
Those are usually either too high like 42-52 or way too low like 38-24
>>920713
Compacts are usually 50-34. Just drop the chain to the small ring when you're approaching a stop, then accelerate and upshift to the big ring. Problem solved.
It's not like you ever use the smallest ring on your triple.
>>920714
True about the smallest ring, but I am not sure I'd be able to handle the hills when I get back home on a 38, so I still need a backup just in case.
>>920711
what's the gear range on your cassette/freewheel?
>>920716
14-16-18-21-24-28
>>920715
You previously said
>for whatever hard climbing the 34-16/18.
The small chainring on a compact crankset has 34 teeth too.
>>920715
Compacts have 34, which is what you're already using. Please pay attention.
>>920719
>>920722
>and when cruising town you have a lot of sudden stops, so unless you see it coming and shift to 16 you have to restart on 42-14 and that shit is heavy
Got freewheel gears wrong but yeah, 50 as the only ring for commuting through town is suicidal while 34 is a joke for plain road, it's like you're literally not moving.
>>920727
I think you need to learn how to properly use your gears.
could someone explain me what sideffects could occur if i used too much cablehousing? would my braking power be less than possible? would my shiftingperfomance go into the trash?
>>920742
no, just dangling cables errywhere
I have to do a 24 mile ride tomorrow morning but I've never ridden more then 12 miles before.
Anyone have any useful advice? Am I fucked?
>>920762
>24 mile
If google's mile to km conversion is correct, is nothing. Basically up to 50 km (or about 30 miles) there's not much difference in effort even if you're a complete newcomer. On a slow pace you can extend that number to 70-80 km (or 40-50 miles).
>>920762
Pump up your tires
Spin, don't mash.
Mostly just don't stress it, you'll be fine have fun.
>>920791
Make that MPH. Translation error. Still fecking pedestrian speeds.
>>920471
Before you go out and buy a new saddle try adjusting your current saddle.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FVu5Zrktm40
My rear cassette has been really dirty for about 2 months, do I need to clean it right away?
>>920817
Nah, it's fine. Bike maintenance is nothing but a meme.
>>920791
Suicidal because I'm not Captain America. I know very well what gears are perfect for me, and it's 42-14 for plain, 42-16 for windy conditions, 34-14/16 for literally any hill. Rest might as well not exist.
The problem is, 42 is absolutely lame when using a 6-speed 14-28 cassette, it's been conceived for modern bikes with a gorillion gears, so on my cassette it gets too shitty of a top speed (27-30ish km/h) and it's too hard for stop-and-going in the traffic. 38 will be more suitabile in the traffic and if I need to speed away I'll have the 48.
>>920868
You do realize you have three lower speeds beyond the 16t cog in your freewheel, right? And that 50x20 and 42x16 are basically the same?
You have six cogs, use them
>>920869
Like I said, my top speed is 42-14 and it's just not enough. 34-14/16 is great for climbing but pathetic for traffic, too much spinning just to keep going. It's just how it is, the triple 42 crankshit is made for cassettes with way more gears starting with something like 11. As a matter of fact, the original triple on this bike was a 46-36-24, which made a whole lot more sense. I only downgraded to 42 because that's all they have in stores now and I couldn't afford days for the internet at that time.
>>920868
You worry too much about what gear you're in. Just shut up and fucking ride cunt. A compact double is perfectly fine.
I posted in the previous thread but bailed because I was really busy and couldn't constantly check 4chin.
I have a brand new wheel and it doesn't spin freely. The hub axle spins nicely and smoothly, but when I rotate the cassette, it refuses to coast. It's not tight all the way round, but catches in 3 different spots and is consistent. Do new freehubs require a break-in time or is it a defect?
>>920886
Take the cassette off first and make sure there's not something rubbing or unusual going on there, but if that doesn't produce an answer then yes it's probably a problem with the freehub body, whether that can be fixed or not is impossible to answer without a hands-on examination.
>>920888
Just thought I could get info beforehand. I'll head to the co-op tomorrow.
>>920886
Check that you have the correct number of spacers for your freehub/cassette combination, under your cassette.
>>920742
more friction between housing and cable. Causes slow shifting/mushy brake feel
>>920872
I give up.
>>920872
Your Topspeed is entrylevelspeed for People who actually plan to train with their Bike, not even to compete in a Race.. So i kinda feel pity for you because you seem to be focused on such gearratios while compared to people who actually do train just to train and not even to compete in races are way better than you
But your gearratio for "Topspeed" is ok for commuting
>>921027
The fuck are you capitalizing words at random?
Hey /n/,
Work will reimburse me up to like $550 for copping a bike, even from craigslist iirc. I just moved to Seattle and want to start biking around on the weekends, probably on both the roads here and the few paved trails around. I am also considering perhaps using it to go to the grocery stores at times, but this is a lesser concern since I currently have a car.
What sort of bike should I look into? Back home, I rode my dads nearly-broken Pugeot from the 70s, and that sort of suited my needs then - in short, I don't need anything fancy, just want to get the most bang-for-buck bike I can.
I was thinking of getting a hybrid bike - is this good for my needs? I of course need disc brakes and fenders, since it rains fairly often here. Would my best bet be to just go to a local bike store and get properly measured and try out the different styles, then cop off craigslist when I find a good deal? Alternatively, there are used bike stores around here, I probably can cop from there.
>>921050
I think touring bikes make the best all rounders
Drop handlebars are more ergonomic and offer more hand positions to avoid fatigue
Low center of gravity for stability, and the speed of a road bike, will have mounts for a rack and clearance for fenders (this is key, a road frame most times won't offer this)
Of course most modern touring bikes come with disks, but I certainly wouldn't say it's a dealbreaker if you find something on CL with calipers or cantilever.
>>921054
>the speed of a road bike
>>921055
well it is a road bike but u get what im sayin
>>921050
Go to your dealers to check out sizing and shifter ergonomics. Used is a silly place to be, and particularly so if you're new and don't know enough to know what to look for.
Go for drop bar commuters rather than flat bar hybrid.
The Kona Rove Al is a nice-looking bike, and good value.
>>921058
>used is a silly place to be
wot m8?
Way better value used, and if he's gonna spend the money anyway it'd be worthwhile for him to learn a bit first anyway
>>921061
Half worn-out bikes at half price, and a complete lottery with sizing and defects. Yes, "value" indeed...
I'm always amazed how people think there are just these second hand faeries out there, selling premium bikes with nothing wrong with them, at several hundred below what they're worth just out of charity.
If anything, the used bike market is horribly overrated.
'I paid so-and-so six years ago, so it should be worth at least half that!' Or, 'but it has the 105/Ultegra komponetz', never mind five generations old.
It's also how stupid people end up telling themselves that DT shifters aren't realy that bad.
>>921061
>>921063
>every market is exactly the same
Does your internet not go beyond your immediate metro area? I thought we'd already established that some areas are great for bargain hunters and some areas are completely fucked for options. It's stupid to tell someone that used is THE ONLY WAY TO GO IF U DISAGREE UR A RETARD, or conversely LOL USED IS ONLY FOR RETARDS LMAO WEED
Also stop pretending that your one limited experience buying or selling a used bike has a valuable lesson for everyone
>>921085
>thinks he knows anything about my used bike buying experiences
Good job there mate! Anyhow, it does not take a great thinker to realise that judging the value of any given used bike and making an informed comparison to the alternatives requiers a certain level of competency. One that a newcomer to the sport by definition does not possess.
It follows then, that the odds of GP finding the unicorn bargain among all the bullshit ads, are quite high indeed.
>>921061
Used is only good if you know what you're looking for, and even then, only 1 out of 10 bikes is worth considering.
>>921117
>1 out of 10 bikes is worth considering
>>921085 here again
1 out of 10 is a lot, you're saying you're seeing 10% of your local listings as actually good bikes that fit you and meet your requirements in some fashion, and this is a bad thing? Gimme a break. You guys want to get your dick sucked and pointed to the one bike and told to buy it, go to your LBS hand them your credit card and bend over.
>>921121
>1 out of 10 is a lot, you're saying you're seeing 10% of your local listings as actually good bikes that fit you and meet your requirements in some fashion, and this is a bad thing?
No, I'm saying 1 in 10 is worth the asking price and is usable as a bike. Finding one that's your size, has the features you want, is in your price range, and then inspecting it in person to see if it's actually in good shape could take weeks.
>>921123
>he takes the asking price literally
Jesus, this is beginner-grade stuff, do I really need to explain secondhand sales traditions to you? You're expected to negotiate, it's considered bad etiquette to go too far off the mark but that's on you.
For example a bike is offered at $600 and you know it's not worth that. Offering $50 is just a waste of everyone's time and is bad etiquette. Likewise it's bad etiquette for the seller to refuse to budge from the listed price, unless the ad actually says so. But say you consider $400 a fair price. You could then offer $200 or $300 and you eventually agree on something in the middle.
This is basic stuff, anon. No wonder you find it so confusing and intimidating.
>>921128
>half price
Nope, you will get shot down instantly for lowballing here unless you're buying something stolen.
Here's a list:
1. What can I do to avoid lights being stolen? I use a hipster milk crate and I don't know how to securely attach a back light, but I've had front lights stolen as well.
2. I bought a new bike a week ago and had the front go flat after 2 days, while on the train. I had to get off early and go to a bike shop in downtown and paid $20 I didn't expect to. Can I reasonably complain to the shop that sold it to me and at least ask for a credit for free labor up to how much fixing the flat cost?
3. I had a bike before that was too small for me (I'm 6') but also fairly forward and I got pain in my left wrist and elbow. After it was stolen I used a friend's bike, which is very upright, and the pain stopped, but my new bike is feels far forward and I'm afraid of this becoming a problem again, what can I do to avoid this?
4. What do people use who for commuter biking to avoid getting a sweaty back, if I don't switch out of my clothes I get acne.
>>920886
I'm this faggot over here. Turns out there was an extra ball bearing in the freehub. My baiku is now complete
>>921130
1. You take them with you
2. No. Learn to fix your flats, keep your tire pressure up, and invest in gatorskins,
3. Raise the bars
4. My friends tubus and ortlieb carry my shit for me. It also helps to shower and change anyway, for the benefit of those who sit near you at work, unless you are going so ridiculously slow that you don't break a sweat
>>921140
I got the flat literally three days after buying it though
>>921154
No reason for a cyclist to not know how to fix a flat. Especially if you're a guy.
>>921140
sorry for posting twice,
3. I tried that on the previous bike which was stolen and having a riser installed was like $50 and only added a few inches
4. I've asked friends and been told I don't smell, but I cannot shower at school.
>>921154
flats happen, doesnt mean there's anything wrong with the shop / mechanic / bike / tires, it just means you're unlucky. Get over it
Also seriously learn to fix a flat
>>921058
>>921054
Hello, thanks for the responses! A couple of questions:
What is the difference etween a touring and commuter bike?
Why not go for a drop bar hybrid instead of a drop bar commuter?
In the mean time, I'll be doing some more research myself, and look into what you guys recommended, cheers.
>>921158
A "commuter" isn't necessarily any kind of bike, it's just a bike you use to commute. Most often people will describe hybrids as commuters. When the other anon said drop-bar commuter he just meant a practical road bike that you can mount racks and shit on
Hybrids are a mix of road bikes and mountain bikes, so no hybrid will come stock with drops, and the geometry (angles / relative lenghts of the tubes on the frame) will be more suited to flat bars.
>>921162
There are lots of tutorials on youtube, it's really very easy. You just need patches, glue, fine sandpaper (all this is included in a $4 patch kit,) tire levers & a pump.
>>921162
Buy a rounding tool and run it over the flat part a few times until no longer flat
>>921163
I see. If I have no intent of riding a bike outside of paved surfaces (though, at times, paved surfaces of questionable smoothness), is there any point of even consideirng a hybrid?
Is it safe to say that a touring bike, in comparison to a road bike, sacrifices speed for comfort and usability?
>>921162
First of all, flat prevention is much better than fixing a flat every couple of weeks which can happen if you are running tires that aren't appropriate for your environment or just aren't paying enough attention to tire pressure.
That said, just watch a video on youtube. It's not even worth it to fuck with patch kits, just get a couple of spare tubes and when you flat, put in a new tube. Patch kits are an anachronism from the days when good tires didn't exist and people were flatting left and right. I get a flat about once every 2000 miles give or take a bit, and I ride in terrible conditions (broken glass everywhere, etc).
>>921167
anyway it's not like I'm getting flats all the time, these were old ass tires and the guy who fixed it said that it was from friction inside the tube
>>921165
A touring bike will have a longer wheelbase and will feel more stable especially under load.
A touring bike will always have hardware for mounting both racks and fenders, and a geometry for handling reasonably well with those racks. Some road bikes will as well, but if you want to have both racks and fenders you'll have to do some kludgy thing or install adapters or whatever. And the handling won't be as comfortable.
The drawback to some touring bikes is that they cater to MGTOW DIY cultists who legitimately believe that you need cantis and barcons and that brifters are going to insta-break and leave you stranded in the Taklamakan Desert where you'll need to fix them with your trusty hammer thus saving your own life. These are the same kind of people who would have bought a hummer on struts with oversized knobby tires for commuting on urban roads if they were cagers. The fact is barcons are an anachronism much like patch kits and you should just get brifters and disc brakes like a normal person because they are objectively better for real-world use.
>>921165
You could take a road bike off paved surfaces, it's all in the tires. Personally I wouldn't consider buying a hybrid for any reason.
>>921170
> MGTOW DIY cultist
ayy
>>921165
And a touring bike is a road bike, it's just not a racing bike. It will be just as fast but because the bottom bracket is lower you won't be able to pedal thru corners as much without risking striking your pedal on the ground
The top tube will also be longer, giving you a more relaxed, upright geometry than a racing bike
plus everything this guy said:
>>921170
>>921177
Well personally I run 25's or 28's on my touring bike and I definitely notice a huge difference in clearance
>>921180
I'll clarify, 25's in summer and only for use as a commuter / errands bike
28s for winter and medium-light touring
>>921176
>>921173
I see, I'm definitely leaning towards a touring bike, since it seems to be good for my uses, since I dont really care about going super fast, but just want something that is reasonable for going around trails and a good beginner bike as I get more into this sort of stuff.
All of this being said, should I be looking into steel or aluminum framing? Is the extra durability of steel really needed, or, more importantly, is it worth the tradeoff of the presumable extra weight?
Any brands you guys recommend I look into? I'm willing to pay up to $800 I think, but would prefer on the cheaper side since this is a beginning bike and I have less of an idea of what I'm doing, and I'm sure as I learn more I'll probably want to sell it and buy another down the road.
>>921182
Steel & aluminum are both good options. Some high end steel bikes from the 80's get pretty close to the light weight of aluminum. Look for Reynolds, Columbus, Ishiwata or Tange tubing (Specifically 1, 2, or prestige for Tange)
Nothing wrong with aluminum either, and you can't beat the weight and rigidity. Aluminum bounds up hills like nothing, but steel is generally more comfortable because of its flex.
You can definitely fuck up an aluminum bike easier than a steel one, but I ride pretty much exclusively aluminum and its proven to be more resilient than people led me to believe. A lot of that depends on weld and heat treat quality though, and Cannondale makes great aluminum frames. I wouldn't worry about the durability aspect unless you plan on doing distance touring in areas where you won't be able to replace your frame in some kind of freak occurrence.
Post your local craigslist, height & inseam and let me see if I see anything good in the used market. Generally $800 isn't a great budget for new.
>>921170
>MGTOW DIY cultists
well memed but but i loathe fucking "brifters" and my cantis stop me just fine when loaded up thx
>>921183
What do you consider a good budget for new? In other words, where do you think the point of diminishing returns is for most people, or atleast for yourself?
My local craigslist is Seattle. I'm 5'9, and usually wear 30" inseam pants, not sure of exact inseam.
>>921182
The Fuji touring comes in at just under $800 list:
http://www.cyclingabout.com/2016-fuji-touring-bike/
>>921186
How much would it cost to replace the rim with disc brakes?
>>921187
check this out
http://seattle.craigslist.org/see/bik/5426597733.html
>>921187
or this
http://seattle.craigslist.org/sno/bik/5426483330.html
>>921193
Oh, and for the Trek vintage, is it possible to equip it with fenders?
>>921199
>muh kool stop is just as good as modern brakes
luddite retrogrouch pls go
>>921201
>will do just fine
>the same as just as good
Caliper brakes have been stopping bicycles for decades. Disks are far from necessary, and add a lot of extra maintenance
>>921203
>it's old so it's good
slightly more attention has to be paid for certain designs. in general, "requires maintenance" is not a good reason to dismiss a vastly superior technology.
>>921209
Costs money
QR dicks suck
Bike industry hasn't standardized road thru frames or parts yet
>>921214
A lot of road frames now support thru axles.
>>921216
And they're mostly garbon and not for touring.
>>921209
Right, but there's no reason to dismiss a bike simply because it doesn't use disk.
http://chicago.craigslist.org/nwc/bik/5435347354.html
found a 26" with drops for 20 dollars. Idk the condition yet, and I'm looking forward to seeing it tomorrow.
I want this as my beater bike. also, ideas on decorating it to deter opportunistic thieves/crack addicts? thinking about putting stickers and shit on the frame
got a ulock and cable, but that don't mean shit if they're prepared with tools
tl;dr [buy 26" w/ drops for 20 dollarinos] yea or nah
also, best 2hu?
My helmet is a tiny bit snug, and used to mark my forehead a little after riding. The past month or so however it's got a lot worse, and the abrasions (?) are getting sore. Has anyone else had this problem, or have any idea what I can do?
Was thinking about a cycling cap or something, but don't really need more heat in summer. And yes, I have cleaned the helmet.
>>921225
Is chicago so bad that people will destroy a ulock for a $20 pos?
Marisa btw
Where did you learn about bicycles and cycling? Is there a book or site or resource that is comprehensive for a beginner to get the basics down?
>>921281
Sheldon Brown and GCN on youtube are decent starting points.
>>921281
by basics I mean routine maintenance, how to tell high quality parts from low quality parts, how to fit a bike, what questions to ask to get a bike that suits your needs, common techniques like how to climb or negotiate steep hills in inclement weather, maybe some history
stuff like that
>>921284
what's gcn? thanks for the recs. any videos you'd suggest watching first?
>>921288
Sheldon and the ParkTool site is a good resource for maintainence and installation tips. As for fit and quality of parts, very few people are any good at that. Even extremely experienced cyclists.
Most experiment freely untill they get to 'good enough', or reach a dead end because they had the wrong idea to begin with.
The Peter principle and Dunning–Kruger effect generally make it impossible to know if you carry any real insight at all.
Quality is governed by Sturgeons law, and while there can be sometimes be fruitfull debate and testing on and around general concepts and particular components, fads, memes and current component generations march on too fast to keep up.
Does anyone else fear the chain slipping when you get out of the saddle for a bit of sprinting and consequently crashing because of it?
How do I overcome this fear?
>>921315
You make sure you drivetrain isn't worn down to buggery, and be careful about shifting under load.
>>921316
Well, my bike is not even half a year old and the drivetrain is set up correctly. I usually do short intervals of hard sprinting putting it in the highest gear so the chainline is also straight.
But I still can't stop worrying about it slipping and crashing headfirst onto the handlebars or something like that
>>921317
Worry about something that's actually going to happen, like being run down by cagers.
>>921322
I ride on a proper bike path with no cars anywhere around (pic related)
Foot mobiles are more of a problem. Also children and dogs.
https://philadelphia.craigslist.org/bik/5429537610.html
Looking for a quality used bike for the gf. Does this look okay?
>>921326
>Buying used items as gifts
>>921326
Twelve year old bike for half what it retailed for - a decade ago. Top kek.
See what I said about the used bike market a bit up the thread.
A Scott S40 is about that brand spanking new here, this time of the year.
I am going to replace the tires of my roadbike for the first time this week. I know how it is done for the most part. But do some of you have any tips for replacing tires? Anything to focus on?
Thanks a lot!
>>921390
Buy good tires
>>921337
Thanks man
>>921390
Make sure the bead is seated all the way around before inflating to any kind of pressure.
Don't pinch the tube. Don't get the tube caught under the bead, or the tyre will blow off eventually.
Make sure the tyre is the right way around. Over-doing it: align the text/logo with the valve.
>>921223
there's also absolutely no reason to buy a new bike if it doesn't use dick
obviously, it's a little unreasonable to expect dick brakes on that sweet 1990s miyata
>>921405
>buyin an endurance road bike with a fredtube
Fredly detected
>>921409
Those are only mediocre tires meant to commuting and training. And if you're buying mediocre tires, there's no point in buying a pricey brand like Conti.
>>921408
What, exactly, do you think "fredtube" means? Please be as detailed as possible so we can laugh at your confusion.
>>921412
>not knowing what a fredtube is
>>921413
I'm asking you to explain it. I think you'll be surprised at the facts.
>>921427
>facts
The facts are most road bikes with thru dicks are garbon with fredtubes.
>>920476
>invert the tire levers to get the bead on
is this common practice? Thats the way i always do it but the last time i brought it up with someone they just said you werent supposed to do it that way
>>921410
But I don't drive regularly. Just want my bike with its 20 year old tires to drive the way it is supposed to. So I think those tires are fine
>>921430
>through axle discs
Are you high?
>>921437
No, it's not. You should never, ever need levers to fit a tyre, and using them with any force means running a significant risk of pinching the tube against the rim or bead.
>>921430
You are confusing fred headtubes with fred-curve top tubes. Keeps up with the memes du jour, pleeb.
>>921438
Ultrasports are fine. They don't have the super special Black Chili rubber compound found in the expensive Continental tyres, but they aren't crap either.
An above average standard road tyre.
>>921452
>You are confusing fred headtubes with fred-curve top tubes. Keeps up with the memes du jour, pleeb.
You're the only one that uses fredtube to mean a curved top tube. Fredtube is a relatively uncommon, but extant term used on bike forums who don't get offended at the sight of a carbon bike and start yelling fred at the top of their lungs. What gets them upset is carbon bikes for fat casuals.
Here's a question:
If I'm riding somewhere I specifically shouldn't be, can the cops take my bike away?
I live in Ontario.
>>921452
>he thinks a fredtube is a top tube with a curve
>fred doesnt even rhyme with toppest keks
Everyone point and laugh
>>921464
Yes. If you're black, they can shoot you dead too.
>>921472
I'm white and the cops around here are pretty good people
>>921474
Cops do what they want. They do stuff they aren't legally justified in doing all the time. If you show them the letter of the law, they radio back in and waste an hour deciding if the law actually says that, and then they give you a ticket or a warning for something else. That or they turn off the body cam and shoot you.
>>921488
I'm just trying to decide if I should risk bringing my new bike on a no-bike trail (that I ride all the time).
This one time me and a buddy were repelling from a bridge at night (making a rope swing). 5 cruisers and like 8 cops with weapons blazing came over and shut is down. Went home with the rope and all the equipment and just an $80 fine.
>>921490
Law aside, you're an asshole for riding on a no-bike trail.
>>921493
Meh. I'm not riding when its muddy, other people ride there, its not well populated, and fuck is it a fun trail.
>>921490
Maybe you should stop trespassing. They gave you a $80 fine as a warning and to teach you a lesson, which apparently you haven't learned. Tickets also go down on record, unlike warnings, which means if they see you're a repeat offender, they're going to crack down harder the next time around.
>>921499
>they're going to crack down harder the next time around.
I guess that's a good point...
>>921501
>Did you not get to experience nikkis insane ranting about curved top tubes?
That's not a "fredtube" and "fredtube" has never been used to describe a curved top tube. The closest mention is a "fred curve" on a top tube.
>>921509
What the fuck do you think 'fred-curve top tube' reffered to? I've not used the term fredtube one single time in the entire thread.
Semi-litterate much?
I understand it's hard to keep track of who you're in a debate with when there are no trips, but jesus fuck, try to keep up.
But by all means, don't let me stop you from carrying on this autistisc pissing contest over the exact meaning of context sensitive colloquialisms.
>>921517
>>921501
Are you the memeseter that thinks calling someone a MGTOW was a /n/ approved meme after a single thread, and to 'lurk moar' if you didn't agree? Do you even know what 'lurk moar' means?
Did you basically rage the fuck out because someone said fredtube, and you assumed fredtube meant a totally and completely unrelated term of 'fred-curve top tube' which is not even a meme nor it is the same as fredtube?
>>921264
it's sometimes called Chi-raq for a reason, but I'm in the suburbs, so less gun crime and so on.
if the 20 POS works and is less than 30 lbs, I'll buy it. the dumbfuck owner didn't even give me a place to meet today. I even gave him/her(?) my phone number to call me, jesus christ
>>921519
I've never used the term MGTOW ever, and had to google the term. I never raged out because someone said fredtube. I assumed there was a missunderstanding between two anons, where both were using the term, but one was refering to the local /n phenomenon. To anyone who didn't catch the reference to that pretty recent tripfag phenomenon, yes, fucking lurk moar.
You still can't figure out who you're talking to. Perhaps you still have not realized that there are more than us two in this thread.
>>921534
"fred-curve top tube" and "fredtube" were never the same thing. Good job backpedaling.
pic unrelated
70 dollar wooden bike holder on craigslist lmao
>>921317
I've slipped out of the saddle from chain slipping. my ego hurt more than anything else. don't shift gears in stasis.
tl;dr don't worry about it
>>921326
barter for 250, settle on 275-300. complain about how old the bike is and its dated equipment. throw around some fred meme vocab and ask for a free lock or helmet.
if your gf isn't experienced as a cyclist, getting her a new bike worth over 1000 USD isn't worth it. give her a taste with a used bike, and upgrade if need be.
>>921544
>bicyclebluebook
>>921519
My friend, at some point you are going to need to move on with your life
t. the guy who called you out as a MGTOW
>>921542
I'd agree $1000 might be a lot to spend on a bike for someone who might not even want to use it.
On the other hand, getting a new bike might make it more likely that she will, as opposed to getting something pre-owned. There are not-horrible bikes in the general price range he was thinking of buying used. We're talking 9spd bikes here. They're not generally $1000.
>>921551
>You are confusing fred headtubes with fred-curve top tubes. Keeps up with the memes du jour, pleeb.
Except, you're the one conflating fredtubes with "fred-curve top tubes"
Are you actually this stupid or are you just pretending to be retarded?
>>921557
Again, I'm not the anon demaning someone explain what he think fredtube is. I'm the one saying one of you got it wrong. Which one of you two you are, I don't know any more.
Anyhow, this debate about the absolute meaning of colloquialisms is still autistic as fuck. Have fun with it, and kindly break your balls against your fred curve on your next chain slip.
>>921571
>You are
Do you even read posts before you respond to them?
>>921549
willing to overpay for 12 year old bikes ()
not bartering on craigslist ()
not using bicyclebluebook.com (or any other resource for that matter) as a reference to influence the seller ()
why spend more than you should??
>>921554
well, here's what I think. if spending 1000 dollars isn't much, go ahead. for me, I'm paying for my tuition and every 100 dollars I save helps me out.
buying new means spending more money. if the bike is well taken care of, treat her to a few nights out with the money saved.
450 is a bit much for a 12 year old bike. negotiate the price, buy a similar bike for a lower price, or spend that 450 on a newer and better bike on the market. 450 isn't going to buy a new bike of similar quality.
she might just ride the bike a few more times out of obligation or something. if she has a car, she'll use the car; the bike will be left in the garage after a few rides. I think the most important part of cycling is how fun it is. if she enjoys riding bikes, she'll look forward to upgrading. if her idea of fun is the status of riding new, expensive bikes, I'd be inclined to dump her desu.
>>921585
>actually clicking on clickbait sites
>thinking that the double edged sword doesn't cut two ways
>thinks bicyclebluebook isn't actually worse than looking at other listings
it's essentially just a random price generator for bikes with an "official" sounding name. for every time it comes out accidentally too low, it's going to come out accidentally too high. there is no adjustment for local market conditions. it's a garbage site and all you're doing is making some guy rich for being clever enough to ride off KBB's good name.
>>921585
But the only one bringing up the $1000 figure is you. New bikes of comparable quality can indeed be found at the $450 mark this time of year, when last years models are being phased out.
Even a non-sale, current year model, carbon taper fork, 9spd bike isn't anywhere near $1000. → http://www.wiggle.com/verenti-bikes-vrla2/
Finding a size S 9spd for about $450 new should not be much of a problem.
Also, factor in that the rubber in those tyres is at least 12y/o. Probably closer to 15 - model year, inventory and all that. The same goes for bowden cabling, seat foam and everything else.
The price of the bike as it stands isn't $450, but $450 and worn/old parts that are going to need replacing sooner than on a new bike.
But sure, if the price ends up closer to $250, then it's another matter. On the pure bike for buck scale. There is no guarantee of that happening though, and him not spending days going out to look at bikes that all turn out to be worn out turds or sellers sticking to the advertised sum.
>>921591
>Finding a size S 9spd for about $450 new should not be much of a problem.
Find one for me.
>>921592
He's full of shit, so he can't.
>>921588
if the price generated on BBB.com is lower than the overpriced, advertised value on craigslist AND if the person selling is willing to lower the price for the bike (not necessarily to BBB's prices), then both parties win.
the seller sells the bike he/she no longer needs, and the buyer gets the bike for a better value. I'm saying used goods should have negotiable prices. imo, 450 for a 12 year old bike does not sound like a hot deal.
I agree that BBB has incorrect values, but if it helps the buyer and seller to negotiate at a reasonable price, it's a good tool to use.
>>921591
1000 dollars is just a number I'm throwing out there as a new bike price. I've never seen a new bike with all tiagra components for below 700 dollars. If the rear derailleur is tiagra and front sora, then you can get it for 550 but those choices are online only
http://www.bikesdirect.com/products/gravity/liberty_2.htm
I'm comparing tiagra, because the craigslist posting had tiagra/105. https://philadelphia.craigslist.org/bik/5429537610.html
If he bought the bike and the cost of replacing old and worn parts add up to 450, I'd say that's a good deal. Even 275-330 is alright. 450 is definitely not.
if the price isn't negotiable, then he can just wait for a few more weeks for new listings to pop up.
also, there is no guarantee that she'll even enjoy riding a road bike. maybe she'll enjoy mountain bikes more for reasons.
I shouldn't even have to say this but
>>921326 get your gf involved in the process and make sure that the
1. bike fits, 2. she'll enjoy it 3. the price is right
maybe he'll buy a scott S40 in the end for ~840. sounds like a pretty good price for a new bike.
>>921592
>>921597
>Finding a size S 9spd for about $450 new should not be much of a problem.
maybe out-of-business bike stores? online stores? stolen; flea markets?
>>921598
>he thinks negotiating prices for used bikes is a radical new thing
How old are you?
>>921599
who is >he?
>>921602
The one with the (You) next to the numbers
>>921604
I don't think negotiating prices is a radical new thing
I'm arguing about the validity of using BBB as a tool to negotiate prices
I guess it's too much effort for you to read a few posts back
>>921592
I have no idea where to even look for bikes in the US, but heres one that - if my in-head £/€→$ conversion is reasonably accurate - is $500. http://www.evanscycles.com/products/jamis/ventura-comp-femme-2015-road-womens-bike-ec072103
These kinds of deals are plentyfull. If you've never seen them, you've never looked for them. Like I said earlier, one of the locals har a drive where they sold out last seasons Scott S40 for 400€.
PlanetX had a deal the summer before last on a 4600 Tiagra carbon fork alu (RT58) for 5500€.
The local megaa sports-chain regularla has 400€ deals on eight- and ninespeed Meridas during the cycling season.
You don't have to pay list price to buy new, you know. Buy sale if you're strapped for cash.
>>921605
I read your post. Your actual argument is that without a clickbait site, the free market wouldn't work. This is something you unironically believe.
>>921598
>I'm comparing tiagra, because the craigslist posting had tiagra/105.
But that's not current 4700 Tiagra. It's not even previous generation 4600 Tiagra. It's 4400, or some such.
The closest match - feature and quality-wise - for that in the current line-up is 3500 Sora.
>>921607
Forgot pic of said $500 9spd womens roadbike.
>>921410
Continental, like many other brands, have products at a wide range of prices and qualities. The ultra sports are cheap. Wouldn't touch them for commuting though because they have very little puncture protection.
They are reasonably quick for the price, though.
>>921634
Although on doing more research it seems only the wire bead is particularly cheap. The folding bead price comes very close to what I paid for michelin pro4v2 endurance, which are equally fast and have loads more puncture resistance.
Does reducing the lever reach on sram decrease brake performance? I have crosstop levers and they provide more stopping force compared to my main levers. Bottoming out on the main levers makes the brakes bite only a little while the crosstops have the power to flip me OTB with just a light squeeze
wat do?
>>921684
>Does reducing the lever reach decrease brake performance?
Not directly - but in effect, if you use a reach adjustment to lock out part of your brake lever's range of motion, you have compensate for that loss by adjusting the cable tension tighter so that the pads start close to the rim/disc. And that means that interrupter levers will also engage the brake much, much quicker.
As far as what to do, frankly there's not much to be done here - either learn to use the grabby interrupters, or just lose the interrupters entirely and learn to brake from the hoods/drops exclusively. The latter would be my suggestion, especially if you're a smaller rider and have narrower handlebars to suit your proportions - because in that case the int. levers will end up very close to the stem, and getting into a posture to use them likely hinders your ability to steer the bike.
>>921684
Do you have the correct pull ratio cross tops?
Chain tension, how does it work and how loose can I go without dropping my chain?
So my wheel says minumum tire size to go on is 28c, and maximum is 35c, but my old tire is 45c with a 35/45c tube inside, on a wheel that says maximum is 35c. so i bought a 32c tire and tube to put on as a replacement, and i can't get the bead wall to seat properly with the new tire. every time i got to inflate it, one side of the tire ends up getting eaten by the wheel. what the fuck am i doing wrong and how do i fix it?
>>921701
Read the Sheldon Brown articles, they're better than I can (re)-write here.
>>921707
>tire ends up getting eaten by the wheel
Don't fuck with that hungry wheel anymore, it might bike your fingers off.
Seriously though, you're trying to put a tire on a wheel that's too narrow for it, that's the problem. With some careful and judicious application of force to the problem you could probably inflate the tube without the bead coming off the rim - but you really shouldn't.
>>921697
What model brake levers, for both of them, do you have and what kinds of brakes do you use?
Backpack advice questions related?
I ride trails solo that are coastal outback Australia, and so far from any assistance. Looking for my first true 'cycling bag' to carry general supplies. Bike has double quick release and single speed (non-fix obv) conversion, so tools required are minimal.
Bag and it's contents option's go.
>>921708
but i don't get it. all the numbers were within the proper perameters. the wheel says 28-35c, and the the tire is 32. what's wrong? am i not supposed to go off of that number when buying a tire, or am i?
>>921713
Oh, sorry, I misread your post to say that you bought a new tube but were trying to put the 45mm tire back on.
If the problem you're having is that the bead keeps squirming off the rim when you try to inflate it, what you should do is get the tire on as best as you can and gradually add pressure to the tube - if you see the tire starting to come off at any point, let a little bit of pressure out, then hold that section in position while you pump. Once you have sufficient pressure in the tube, that will keep the bead in place.
>>921715
cool. i was trying that but it seemed like whenever i got one spot in place, another spot ended up falling in. might just be getting impatient with it.
but on a semi related note: is there any specific reason why a 45c tire was on my 35c rim? how does that work? it was the stock hybrid tire that came on the bike, but not the original wheel. snapped up the original a long time ago against a curb.
>>921710
Riding with a backpack is an easy way to make any ride suck ass. Any reason you can't go with a decent sized saddlebag and/or handlebar bag?
>>921742
Well, I ride a dj mtb, possibly pretty hard to find saddlebags for. It's a 2013 Mongoose Fireball.
I'd like to carry occasionally, a spare set of lightweight cloths, and a towel, as most of my riding is deserted ocean trails. Along with some food, tubes, a pump, and anything else to get me out of walking a tremendous distance back to civilization.
>>921750
Google bikepacking
>>921750
Yeah that eliminates a seatbag and idk if there's a point to having a framebag that small.
Revelate makes some interesting handlebar bags, including a harness that you can use to stack a couple of cylindrical objects, like a tent + sleeping bag. It's a bit pricey, but you might be able to get by with loading up the front. Only problem is that it might make your handling suck. I dunno enough about dj bikes to say how 10 pounds on the front might fuck with its handling.
I have an old Camelbak HAWG NV that I use as a day pack and sometimes when I'm biking and need to have a shitload of water or a bunch of storage space. It doesn't totally suck when biking, as the ventilation system sort of works, but on longer rides it's still miserable.
>>921750
Post a photo of what you intend to carry
Depending on size needs a bum bag may work or small hydration pack like Evoc, Dakine... I could give more options depending or size/price/features needed
How do I change gears right?
When I was riding a mtb with a triple crank and I could access the full range of the cassette from the middle chain gear (34t). That gave me enough range that I didn't need to change away from the 34t chain gear.
Now I have a compact road bike (second hand) I am confused about what to do on tracks with frequent short descents and short climbs.
If I'm on the 34t and I hit a descent and I change towards a faster gear on the cassette the cunt chain starts grinding on the front derailleur.
The opposite happens if I try to climb and I'm on the 50t.
This seems like a step back from being able to access my whole cassette on my mtb.
Am I supposed to just change between chain gears frequently in this situation? I find it a bit awkward to change the it and then have to find the right gear on the cassette. Especially if the descent is really short, it's annoying. Do I just need to practice getting pro at changing gears?
Seems like it would be less annoying to just have a single cog on the crank that could actually access the entire cassette without grinding desu and a larger range cassette along with it.
Also my cassette doesn't change 100% well. I change in one direction and nothing moved, then I changed again and it jumped two. Can't remember if I was shifting up or down. Overall it's not too ad though I wonder if I'm supposed to just tighter the cable a bit. Just hoping it's simple.
>>921782
trim your derailleur
Just bought
>Respro Techno Anti-Pollution Mask
>Endura Full Monty Glove AW15
are those good?
>>921793
>Respro Techno Anti-Pollution Mask
Not sure what this has to do with biking
>gloves
Yes the internet reviews seem positive
also why are you asking for validation AFTER buying something
why do people do this
fuck you
>>921794
>fuck you
actually researched them already myself
you are right i should have asked here also beforehand
>Anti-Pollution
I ride in heavy traffic a lot, and shit vehicle cagers are spraying fucking black smoke everywhere
>>921764
>>921776
>>921777
The theme here, seems to be 'avoid backpacks'
I don't need to carry much, but if i ever decide to camp, or transport items, a bag's going to be the only option, and a helmet clip is a huge plus for me.
Beg's the question, camelback or osprey.. or other? Any experience here guys?
I want a mini-velo but I don't want to spend $800.
So, I found a $80 Walmart kids bmx bike with gears and 20" tires. I thought I was in luck (just swap the handlebars and stem and call it a day) but then I realized the geometry of the frame and the angle of the seat wouldn't work.
So... I looked around some more and saw a similar kids mountain bike, and I think if I swapped out the fork for a bmx rigid, it would adjust the seat post angle juuuust enough to be almost upright. However, then I'm worrying about the pedals slapping the ground.
Could I swap out the crank arms for shorter ones and be okay?
I don't understand much about bike parts.
I have a BMX, wich has a 43t sprocket vs a 16t cog.
However, i want a smaller sprocket as mine weighs too heavily to lift the bike off the ground, even if i like the heavy gear.
Some people told me i need to change the Crank or something like that, otherwise a smaller sprocket will not fit
Is this true? What should i do to install a smaller sprocket? Do i need to change the cog too?
>>921816
You want an easier gear, for climbing hills and accelerating?
Usually you'd get a larger cog instead of a smaller chainring. And you shouldn't have to change both at once, in any case.
>>921816
I'm no expert, but short answer no.
Your pic related is an outdated configuration, the bikes with smaller sprockets are the new breed, same gearing, smaller size. Long answer short, the cost of a new crank, sprocket, rear hub, and a re-spoke, is the price of a mid ranged new bike.
If you are having problems bunny hopping or airing on vert, frame geometry and setup are largely at play, and those older models don't do so well in this area.
Again, no expert, but almost anything a company like 'radio' bikes make, are good, at least as an example.
>>921839
Buy garbon
>>921716
Still hoping to get an answer to this so I can Improve my noob knowledge.
>>921839
definitely buy a new one. Upgrading a low-level bike always costs 2x more than just buying a good one
Weigh the bike you have before you go shopping.
Once you get it, do some simple upgrades. Lighter wheels / tires is easy. Best weight loss per dollar on a road bike is a carbon fork, carbon seatpost. I don't know if there are carbon BMX parts that I would trust if you are going to be dropping the bike regularly
>>921904
The tire vs rim width question? Rims should be narrower than the tires.
I don't think you had a 35mm rim though, that's huge and not found on most hybrids. The only affordable rim that comes close to that is Sun Ryhno Lite XL
Yo so when I pedal my cassette wobbles a bit. The cassette still looks like its in excellent condition, could it be the hub on the wheel is slightly bent? I think it's also worth noting that the wheel is a bit warped as well, when i try to brake ever so slightly the wheel scrapes against the pads in a few uneven spots. Should I just get a new wheel or should I take it to a shop to get straightened out? Aside from those things there's nothing really wrong with it.
>>921909
Those two are likely separate issues unless the hub's axle is damaged.
1. It's perfectly normal for a cassette to look like it's wobbling a little bit when you spin it.
2, If the rim of the wheel is out of true, that can and should be fixed ASAP, otherwise the wheel will be prone to going further out of alignment even faster in the future.
>>921908
It specifically says on it 700c x 28-35c on the wheel. Dunno if that helps at all, but I guess that makes sense that the tire was 45c. Could that be why I'm having an issue with the new tire seating against the wall properly?
>>921909
>Yo so when I pedal my cassette wobbles a bit. The cassette still looks like its in excellent condition, could it be the hub on the wheel is slightly bent?
That could be a lot of things. most likely your cassette is not tightened properly. Or it could be missing a spacer needed to fit that hub. Or it could be the wrong size cassette for that hub.
Did you put the cassette on? The hub the cassette sits on could be the wrong size.
Hard to diagnose over the internet without seeing it. Shop time
> I think it's also worth noting that the wheel is a bit warped as well, when i try to brake ever so slightly the wheel scrapes against the pads in a few uneven spots.
This wheel needs to be "trued" . The rim wobbles side-to-side if it has seen some use/abuse. Bike nerds like to fix this themselves, but it's not always easy depending on the cause. It's around $30 to get a local shop to do it.
If it's a garbage quality wheel it's better to save the money and just upgrade to a slightly nicer wheelset IMHO.
> Should I just get a new wheel or should I take it to a shop to get straightened out? Aside from those things there's nothing really wrong with it.
Depends on the wheel. Whats the rim/hub/age?
>>921911
>It specifically says on it 700c x 28-35c on the wheel.
That is probably accurate then. You can go out of this range a bit but 45c is probably too much
Fat tires are meant to be run at lower pressure. But if the rim is too narrow, the tire will "flop" on turns and make handling squirmy. So to fix that you have to run the fat tire at high pressure and lose all the benefits of having the fat tire.
MTB Bros are guilty of this all the time.
