Old one is kaput.
I used clinchers for 'cross this season and pinch flatted a couple times.
For next season, I'm contemplating whether to go tubeless (my rims are WTB tubeless-ready) or tubular.
I live in a ~1000 sqft. condo, carpeted throughout, with no garage or anything. If I get my LBS to put them together for me, is there a chance that tubeless wheels could make a mess if they're just sitting on my bike, in my condo? If I need to add/remove air, could sealant escape somehow?
Theyre not just going to explode sitting around. Yes, they may seep a bit through the valve stem if you try to let air out.
I'm not sure how effective sealant is at higher pressures for flats. I used some in tubs years ago to fix some flats, but I'm cautious of them sealing under high pressure while riding.
They won't damage anything just sitting. Worst case, the sealant dries out in there so you have to pull the tire off and peel off the goo.
If you're letting air out, do not have the valve at the bottom or you'll probably get sprayed by sealant and possibly seal your valve shut.
I need to replace the cassette on my bike but I cant find the correct cassette online. I think its an old school shimano 600 UG cassette with a screw on cog but they all appear to be $100.
Yes, if you can find a full UST tyre and not one that is "tubeless ready" or whatever else the manufactures want to call it anymore. Most tubeless ready tyres need sealant to actually hold air.
1. Definitely verify what you have before ordering anything.
2. It's slightly more involved, but rather than finding an old Uniglide (UG) cassette, it's usually cheaper to replace the UG freehub body with a modern HG freehub body so you can use an HG cassette which will be much cheaper and available anywhere (UG was only made for a couple years before it was replaced by HG, which has been standard for almost two decades now). Exact cost will vary, you could be looking at under $30 total if you do the work yourself and have an otherwise worthless wheel/hub to steal an HG freehub body from, but you'd still pay less then $100 on the high end (ordering all new parts and paying a bike shop to do the work).
I think my bike needs a new axle bearing on the front wheel, the front wheel still has a good amount of play.
How can I find out what kind of axle I need? And what brake pads should I use? I bought some Dia-Compe 76 pads off Amazon for cheap.
Its just a late 80s Panasonic Road Bike (a low-end model, Panasonic Sport) that I'm restoring with a friend. Pic Related for Specs
Unless the axle is broken that's a very uncommon thing to need to replace. If you're getting a wobble in the hub (after you've adjusted the cones and locknuts), I'd be wondering if you're missing some bearings, or if you've simply made a mistake during the adjustment process.
And those DC pads are fine. They're not great in wet conditions, but fine otherwise.
He's a ex-bike mechanic who used to work at a shop, spent a good 20 minutes fucking with the cones and locknuts before giving up. Still has a small side to side wobble but its "good enough" its still rideable, said likely either a locknut got stripped at some point or the bearings are bad. He recommended taking just the wheel to a LBS and let them change it once it starts clicking/seizing.
I think your ex-mech friend is right, if he couldn't adjust the hub any better it's probably not worth your while to do anything but ride that wheel until the hub becomes annoying loose, then replace the whole wheel with something better.
I had to send a brand new wheel back on warranty due to the bearing races being out of spec... Noticed it mostly in high speed descents at high lean angles where my front wheel started chattering and almost caused a wreck, totally unnoticable on flats and normal speeds... sometimes all the correct assembly in the world can be thrown out the window due to a worn machining bit in taiwan.
Can you identify the mfr./model of the hub & the number of spokes? If worse comes to worst, you could ebay yourself a similar hub & have the wheel re-laced. 27" wheels seem to be a niche item nowadays.
Is it worth it to buy brand name chains vs mall-tier chain?
Just need a 1/8 chain so I don't care about shifting performance and shit.
8$ supercycle chain from Canadian Tire vs 30$ SRAM chain from lbs
No doesn't have to be that. It's mostly just a tool around the city bike.
I'm 95% sure that is what it is. Considering all the parts on the bike are original except for the seat, bar tape and brake pads and it fits with all the other shimano 600 stuff on the bike.
That is a good idea but even though i just plan to ride it recreationally I want to try to keep it as original as possible.
Yes. It will last longer and consequently the rest of your drivetrain will last longer also.
Buy it online though
>I want to try to keep it as original as possible
There are many old bike technologies that have been sadly forgotten, or are remembered with some fondness - but Uniglide is not one of them. Seriously, Hyperglide shifts better, is easier to work with, cheaper, easier to find, and switching to it won't change the aethetics of your bike at all unless someone looks very, very closely at the teeth on your cassette.
And cassettes are wear items anyways - you're not going to try and track down NOS versions of the original brake pads that came on your bike are you?
How do I know what size bottom bracket will fit in a frame's bottom bracket shell? I know the mm sizing and taper type for the crankset, but regarding the actual fitting for the frame, is it just contingent upon the threading, or is there a specific measurement?
>fitting SKS mudguards
THESE ARE A COMPLETE PAIN IN THE FUCKING ARSE
GETTING SO FUCKING ANGRY
Will have to have a break and do them in a bit fuck me.
Not having a stand doesn't help either.
bro, I totally feel your pain. my first fender install was sks. never again. you need like 4 hands to hold each pivoting part in place, then tighten it down with your 5th hand…
the VOs I later did were a breeze; well, comparatively.
Unless you have an old bike made in a European factory there are only two common kinds of BB thread standards: English (most common, fixed cup tightens counter-clockwise, adjustable tightens clockwise) and Italian (both cups tighten clockwise).
Once you identify your thread type, all you need to know is whether your bb shell is 68mm wide (most common) or 73mm wide (mostly found on MTBs).
SKS fenders are a little tricky, but it's actually possible install them with one hand behind your back if you work in the right order:
1. attach the fenders to the frame at the chainstay and seatstay bridges/fork crown
2. attach the base of the adjustable stays to the frame/fork, but leave the bolts slightly loose
3. install the four adjustable nuts that join the fender stays without the black rubber grommets present - just the fenders loosely in place and tighten all the nuts down. Then make your positioning adjustments one nut at a time, gradually.
4. Once you have your fenders aligned, finish the installation by marking the stays, cut them to length, reattach with grommets in place, and the very last thing you should do is fully tighten down the bolts that attach the fender stays to the frame.
if youre serious bout racing in cross, only way to go is tubular, tubeless are getting better but they don't compare at all to tubs for cross.
god i fuckin love good tubular cross tires, even when pumped up to like 80psi the challenge grifos i have are so fucking comfy, so much traction too.
Gave up desu getting too worked up and it's fucking dark.
Also I can't even put the rear wheel back on a bike, for some reason it always confuses me.
Plus my chain is rusty even though I clean it, must have been from when I cycled in torrential rain the other week. Do cheap chains rust or am I just shit?
I fucking love cycling but I'm having a really bad time with the mechanical side of it.
>I fucking love cycling but I'm having a really bad time with the mechanical side of it.
that's how I feel too, I have to get my hand held at the co-op everytime I go.
Not sure about the chain, how did you clean it? Mine is fine if I ride in the rain and I clean/lube it right after, maybe there was a lot of salty water splashing up on it?
Sponge and warm water with washing up liquid and all that. I cleaned it thoroughly and brought it inside so it should have dried out quickly anyway.
>maybe there was a lot of salty water splashing up on it?
Maybe, I might get a new chain tomorrow anyway to make sure.
I am getting better at the bike maintenance but I'm glad I'm making mistakes on a cheapish hybrid rather than an expensive road bike lel. Practise makes perfect and all that!
Which gloves would be warmer for winter cycling, something like
Definitely the second - surf/water gloves are designed for temperatures that never go below freezing, you need winter gloves with a lot more insulation to deal with temperature's below freezing.
Hallo. I have wheels with fuckd up threading on the hub axles. That means the cones are somewhat stuck and therefore adjusting the hubs is difficult if not impossible. Should I try to find some cheap replacement axles or buy completely new hubs? Even if I wouldn't rebuild the wheel I would have all the spare parts ready for swapping.
Hubs are Shimano XT but can I buy any cheap Shimano hubs? Do they have similar internals like cones? I quess the wheels aren't worth fixing in a lbs. They are with Salsa Semi rims that are wide and sturdy but heavy as fuck.
If you've been riding those poorly adjusted wheels for a a while I'd take a look at the inner races to see if they've been damaged before you consider replacing the axle and relevant parts.
But after that, I guess it depends how much you like that wheel. XT is new/common enough that you can find hub parts for it without spending too much money, but if you're already thinking about replacing those heavy as fuck wheels then why bother?
Finally put my mudguards on the bike, only took all day.
Also put a rack on which was piss in comparison and lights. Slight problem is that I can't put the rear light in the seatpost because my bag or w/e will be on the rack will cover it. It has a clip on it and I can clip it to the back of the rack but I'm not sure how secure it will be.
My commuter came with pic related tires (Kenda K935), in 35c, been riding them for a few weeks to work and back, going over shitty roads and the occasional muddy and acorn-strewn park trail.
So far (about 100 miles over a few weeks) I can't really fault them objectively - no flats, no major slippage - but I have this nagging feeling that they're slower than I could hope for in a tire this size.
Am I being a spoiled brat here, or is there much to be gained by upgrading the tires?
I certainly don't -need- 35c. I've ridden 23c and tolerated the rattling, though it was beyond my courage at the time to hop some curbs and ride fast on some trails which could push the envelope.
Both that old 23c and my current 35c never really got more than a few weeks' use, so I don't know what the long term durability and flat resistance is like.
I'm willing to put down the $70-$100 it would take to get a pair of top shelf tires if it means a couple of years of high-reliability transportation for my fat ass and groceries, and is a considerable improvement in speed over my current tires without barring me from curb hops and park trails.
also you shouldn't be hopping curbs at all and under heavy use no tire will last 2 years
all this goes double if you're overweight
Not sure what you mean by trails but some durable 28's will easy stand up to dirt and gravel
When the wheel is spinning fast enough, centrifugal force keeps the hairs straight and it provides extra grip. Kinda like car washes when the brush is limp but when spun fast enough it can act like hard solid brushes
Like, any specific kind of oil?
I've thought about snagging some pic related or something similar and just letting it soak overnight. Good idea, Y/N?
The only time it's useful to soak a chain is to dip it in solvent or degreaser for a few minutes as part of a deep cleaning procedure.
As for chain lube, there's a billion opinions on what is best, but really it doesn't matter so much which you use as long as you have some kind of lubricant on your chain and don't overlube (too much leads to gunk build-up that can trap grit). Just avoid things like motor oil and chainsaw bar oil, those are exceptionally thick or designed for high temperature/pressure applications.
I have an 80s road frame I want to make a commuter out of, the only thing missing are the wheels and I'm not sure where to start.
It's a Ross with friction downtube shifters which I'm pretty sure came with a 6 speed freewheel originally from looking at some catalogs.
What would be the cheapest way of getting a wheelset for it online?
First you need to determine whether your bike takes 27" or 700c wheels, that should be listed in the catalog. 27" is a near extinct wheelsize, so if your frame is spaced for 27" you might consider converting to 700c so that you have more choice in wheels and tires (this is generally simply a matter of finding brake calipers that have a little more reach).
After that, the front wheel is simple, all front hubs are 100mm wide at the locknuts. The rear of the frame will be spaced at either 120mm or 126mm - measure this. If your frame is 126, no problem - if it's 120, still no problem, you can either track down a rear wheel with 120 spacing, or use a 126 and just jam it in (slightly bends the frame, but that's okay for steel frames).
Finally, you'll have to decide whether you want a rear wheel that's compatible with a freewheel (old style, will limit you to 7 speeds in the rear, cheaper usually) or one with a freehub (modern style, will cost a little more, allows you to do whatever the hell you want to as far as gearing goes).
Look in the catalog, it came with 700c and just to make sure I stuck one of my front 700c wheels on it and the brakes hit on the right spots. I just measured it to be 126mm spacing in the rear.
I'm completely fine with a 7 speed in the rear, I don't think I'd need more since I was originally going to make this a single speed but I already have two so I'd like to have some gears this time.
I'll be checking my co-op when they're open, it's like every other week since people are out for holidays right now but last time I went they only had 26" and bmx stuff.
I appreciate the info about hubs, I'm glad I asked before I just started looking for myself.
Hmmm.. I guess if the front wheels are universal I can take one off my single speed for now so I'm just looking for a rear wheel then. That would make it a whole lot cheaper.
Good to know about just jamming it in the rear, if I don't find a rear wheel for it I'll just ride it single speed until I do. I just wanted to check here first.
Sorry about the novel
I presume you're referring to pic related?
This one literally says THE KING OF LUBES on the label.
If you don't want to deal with re-spacing the rear dropouts, Velo Orange offers a 126mm rear wheel build of the Grand Cru PBP hub & rim; it accommodates a freewheel of up to 7 speeds. 170 burgerdollars
Its [insert current year] why aren't you riding with a power meter bro?
Does anyone know how I can turn a Royal Mail messenger bag in a pannier?
The back has two loops but I just got my bike and I've never used panniers so I don't know if those would help in any way. Any help would be much appreciated
I've had 3 flats this week. Two in the past two days. They're not compression flats, I just keep running over small pieces of shit.
Does god just hate me, or is there something I can do to avoid this?
These things apparently.
Is it just because I'm used to pushing a shitty MTB around everywhere? Are road tires really so fragile that a mm wide piece of glass can embed itself in them?
I already know the answer to that is yes because that's what just happened to me.
Will this cut brake/shifter cables?
That'll mash the shit out of your cables, it won't cut them. You're better off using side cutters than bolt cutters.
Proper cable cutters work like scissors with insane leverage.
So would this be better?
I can't afford the ones you linked
I've been spending the last few days pulling the trigger on peripherals for my commuter bike, but the bag thing really has me stumped.
Ortlieb, for example, makes some tempting commuter-oriented bags, which combine rack compatibility with straps for backpack/shoulder bag functionality, but some of the reviews indicate that the strap systems are poorly implemented or that the bags are unstable or prone to heel strike because of their shape.
Are these bags, or comparable bags from other companies, able to deliver on both ends, or does this always end in an unhappy compromise?
get end cutting pliers/nippers to avoid fraying, they snip over the end not across the side. look like jaws not scissors. the house brand pair I got from the big box hardware have done me right.
Heel strike has more to do with the length of your bike's chainstays and what kind of rack you have than the shape of the bag. Sorry I can't recommend a good bag, but no, there's no necessary reason why a pannier/backpack combo bag wouldn't work.
It's fine, you might have to take extra care to prevent pinch flats when installing tubes because the extra width of the tube will be prone to getting stuck under the bead, but once the tubes are in and inflated it will be just fine, the size is close enough.
Is there a proper way to set up brakes so that you get good feedback on the hoods as well as the drops? If I set the tension loose enough to have smooth modulation on the hoods, it then feels like I cant get the maximum braking force when I'm on the drops because the levers reach the bars too soon.
I find that the easiest way to do that is to unscrew the bolts on the face plate of your stem to remove the bars and replace them with superior flat bars. Then go from there.
It's normal to feel a little less modulation on the hoods than in the drops - think about where your fingers land on the lever, you're pulling a slightly longer lever arm when in the drops.
You should always set your brakes so that you don't bottom out the lever before you reach maximum brake pull - if you like the brakes tighter still that's okay, but never set them so loose you can bottom out.
They're a dumb meme, "gravel bike" is marketing speak - any CX bike or road bike with clearance for slightly wider tires will be equally suitable for gravel riding.
Speaking of gravel I have a question.
So they started doing road "construction" right outside my house in order to "fix" everything that was supposedly wrong with the once 100% asphalt road.
The bastards chipsealed it.
Basically they shat out some uneven tar and loosely dumped thousands of large gravel rocks on top.
And they never properly fog sealed over it like they were supposed to.
Every time a vehicle goes by it sends thousands of particles flying up.
Every time I go by it rattles the meat off my bones and gets rocks stuck in my drivechain. And it just completely destroys my tires.
Who the fuck do I complain to?
Would these be suitable for 'cross?
Just buy some fat tires. The reason why Jan Heine insists on 650B is because he rides chipseal and dirt roads all the time, unlike people with actual infrastructure and asphalt roads than can ride 23s and 25s just fine.
>who do I complain to?
Depends where you live and who's responsible for the road, but I expect you'd get the best results by talking to your city/county department of transportation first, then if you don't get the response you want, you raise a stink with your local councilman/commissioner/alderman and at the same time do what you can to make your grievance public.
Hello, I have a question about tyre pressures and weather conditions. I heard somewhere that it's better to underinflate a little bit for rainy weather because whatever and put more air in for dry conditions. But what about when it's hot/cold? I just entered cold season (obviously) and had a little too little air in me wheels, so I went to the gas station and put a bit more. My question is, should I go above the usual limit, since cold air lowers its volume, or rather inflate a bit less in case it would expand when the bike is parked indoors?
Or are the changes microscopic and I should turn my autismus off?
Thanks in advice for the advance.
Temperature doesn't change quickly enough on the earth's surface to produce noticeable changes in tire pressure. The only time temperature matters to your tires/tubes is if you ride in extreme cold or heat (-20/40 C) - in those conditions rubber surface in contact with the ground feels noticeably stiff or sticky, respectively. And for wet/dry, you benefit from lower tire pressures riding on snow or mud because of the increased surface area, but otherwise it doesn't matter.
It's also worth noting that you can expect your tires to lose pressure very gradually over the course of weeks or months, even if you don't have a discreet leak, because all rubber is slightly porous.
>Little bit of rust on my chain. Replace?
That rust isn't doing any harm. Maybe you could brush it off with some clean lube and a rag. Rust on the rollers is bad, but they look shiny.
Chains should be replaced when cumulative wear between the bushings/plates and the pins causes the chain to stretch.
Chain stretch is bad because it causes premature damage to more expensive parts - your chainrings and cogs.
You can check for chain wear with a chain checker, a.k.a. chain stretch gauge. It's very easy to check. A friendly bike mechanic can do this in a few seconds.
Where the hell do I get one of these kickstands?
alibaba, if you're cool with getting 1000 at a time.
but seriously, I actually found a few US sellers; they're all those stores that sell gas engine kits for bicycles. of the 3 I found, NONE of them listed specs. I have a 27" wheel, so I emailed and requested. 1 place actually answered, basically "I'll check." he didn't. "just return it if it doesn't fit." pay shippng both ways and treat myself to a visit to the post office? nope.
but, if you've got a 26" wheel, they'll probably work
if anyone else knows a place with actual specs please respond. the alibabba sellers had them in whatever size you want, so they DO exist somewhere for 700/27/28. every flying pigeon ever is a 28, but the only sales that come up with the "flying pigeon" search term is a retarded LA hipster bike store.
Looking to upgrade soon from a shit hybrid to a big boy road bike. Is $1000 to $1500 a reasonable price point to start looking at? Would I get something a lot better if I spent more? (yes I'm also looking at cl but nothing good has popped up yet)
Thanks man. Went to order one and it turns out the shipping is insane, like $18 extra for basic USPS. Guess I won't be getting one of those for a while, lmao.
Anybody with Sora brifters willing to help me out? I'm having trouble shifting to the 50 plate on my bike. It seems the front derailleur is not appropriately reaching its max position. I've tried everything, and still can't get it to work. I noticed the red needle on the brifter reaches its maximum position while I hold the lever, but once I let it go, it moves a little bit, which gives me issues when shifting (I need to hold the lever for a second before it shifts). Is this normal? Shouldn't the needle reach the max position (to the left)?
The bike's new, I have less than 150 km on it.
I have a problem with my bike that I cant figure out. about every 2.5 rotations something in the drive train slips. and the pedals free-spin for a very short period of time. I CANNOT replicate this problem with the bike upside down and working the pedals with my hands. This problem happens in every gear. There are no missing teeth. I have no clue what it could be.
Any help? I know that's vague as shit.
Bike is a 94 Raleigh road bike
In addition to lubing it, try flexing the chain laterally so the pins and plates are forced back into alignment, just grab the chain a couple links down from the stiff one on each side and twist/bend it back and forth a few times.
no luck with either flexing and lubing. I guess it's just time for a new chain?
>depends what stage of the tour de france you are on
The winter stage.
Was rather thinking of parking the bike indoors in ~20C and riding it in ~-5C.
>tires to lose pressure
I noticed that. I do inflate them every so often and haven't had a flat ever since switching to [spoiler]marathon pluses[/spoiler].
Basic physics. In this case pressure is related to temperature so 268K / 293K = 91% wich means your indoor inflated tire loses 9% of it's pressure. And that doesn't really matter much.
At winter I like to ride really low pressures to maximise grip on snow and ice. And it's still hard to notice statistically significant difference in average speeds.
So I've just installed a new star nut. I put it into the maximum depth that my FWE star nut setter allowed. I've used my old topcap and crew with this new star nut and I have the following problem now:
>Tighten topcap down to the point where it doesn't wiggle and there's no play with the front fork
>steering is so goddamn stiff I can hardly turn the handlebars
>Loosen it to where it wiggles a bit
>Play in the front fork but I can steer
do I need the matching topcap/screw?
As i've never installed a star nut before, I did so with the fork in the bike and ended up bashing various areas of the headset together. Took it all apart which required some prying and then degreased and regreased everything. Works good nao.
My pedals have started jumping forward and it appears I have a stiff link. I've found the problem child, but I have no lube handy. I'm home for thanksgiving and dad's suggesting using chain oil he has for his chainsaw. Is there any reason I wouldn't want to use this?
worst case it's too thick or too thin
I assume you clean your chain regularly anyway, so if it's the wrong kind of lube you just get rid of it at the next cleaning.
if you don't clean your chain regularly then even more reason to use it.
>clean your chain regularly
Well, about that...
I've never cleaned it in the time I've had it since August, so now's a good a time as any. Any hot tips on doing this or just follow whatever google tells me to? This is the first "real" bike I've ever had so I'm not surprised I fucked up on maintenance.
park tool cyclone and any old citrus degreaser (nashbar has the cheapest bike-specific one that I know of, otherwise simple green)
fill and mount it, and turn the pedal over 100 times
remove it, and run the chain through a clean dry microfiber rag (turn the pedal 5 to 10 times while gently gripping the chain with the rag).
dump the degreaser into your nearest federally protected wildlife refuge.
rinse thoroughly, and then refill it with warm water and a few drops of regular dish soap (not the kind for machines)
100 pedal revolutions with the warm water, then remove again and the rag again.
dry thoroughly for several hours, and apply fresh lube. allow that to dry for several hours, and wipe with the rag again.
I gearfloss with citrus degreaser before I start this entire process.
some people remove the chain but I'm not that autistic.
Anyone here have a guide or want to tell me how to into bikes? I currently have a mass produced, heavy bike from Biltema (Sweden). Ive heard of building your own bike, is it as recommended as with computers? Or should i buy quality ones from a store thats renowned here?
I used lighter fluid as a degreaser and I forget the exact spray lube he had on hand that they use on the chainsaw. I found the issue though and it wasn't lube related. The link that wasn't bending properly appears to have broken partially along the ridge somehow. Running your finger along it you can easily feel where the metal has been broken. It's still together and works, but the link at least will need replacing. Can you replace a single link or is it an all or nothing affair?
Building a bike is only a good option if you are certain it's what you want. It will be more expensive and if you don't know what you're doing you will end up with incompatible parts, poorly adjusted stuff, parts that work together but aren't ideal together, a bad fit, etc.
If you want a bike, get a complete bike. New or used is fine. Used will be much cheaper but then you will potentially have to replace some parts and get some stuff adjusted.
>>>/n/bbg can help you pick out a bike
Clean with degreaser, I like Dumonde citrus degreaser. It smells really good so keep it away from babies and pets who might try to lick it.
Then lube with chain lube. I like Dumonde lube a lot. After lubing the chain, let it sit for 10 minutes, then wipe it off. The point of lube is to infiltrate the chain links, not to have the outside of the chain lubed. So after letting it sit, you want to wipe off as much lube as possible with a dry cloth. This will prevent the chain from attracting dirt.
If it is one stiff link, lube won't do much to help. There are a few ways to fix it. The best is to use a chain tool with a tight link cradle, put the stuff link in the tight link cradle (not the normal cradle) and turn the pin pusher 1/8 turn (45 degrees).
If you have a chain tool that does not have a tight link cradle, you can sometimes accomplish the same thing by using the normal cradle.
If you do not have a chain tool at all, you can flex the chain by hand. Look up a video of how to fix a stiff link, it's easier that way than trying to describe with words.
>I used lighter fluid as a degreaser
I really fucking hope you are trolling
>Can you replace a single link or is it an all or nothing affair?
Depends. If the chain is fairly new, you can replace a single link. However, it's generally not advisable to re-use chain pins. You can do it, and I have multiple times, but that will result in a slightly weaker link prone to breaking. Better to use a master link or connecting pin if one is available.
However, if your chain is old, then adding a new link will result in the new link being very slightly smaller than the rest (as the pins wear over time, causing the chain to "stretch"), in which case your drive train will skip due to that one new link. If this is the case, chances are your sprockets are worn out as well, in which case you should replace everything. To avoid this happening, replace your chain any time it is stretched past 0.75% (this will generally be once every 1000-3000 miles ridden; take your bike to a bike shop every so often and ask them to measure your chain for stretch, they'll do this for free; or buy your own chain measuring tool). Replacing your chain when it stretches results in the sprockets wearing much slower and ultimately saves you money.
tl;dr you can replace just one link, but if your other components are worn, the new link will cause the drive train to skip
Also, you could just shorten the chain by one link, but then if you ever shift into the large chainring and the largest (or possibly second largest) rear cog at the same time, it will jam your drive train and potentially break stuff.
Low pressure helps in slippery conditions because it increases traction. High pressure helps in dry conditions because it decreases rolling resistance (makes you faster) and results in less pinch flats.
Temperature definately does make a non-negligable difference. You can keep your bike in your garage and inflate the tires outside, that way it doesn't undergo as significant of temperature changes between inside and outside. However, that is not necessary. Tires can generally handle much higher pressure than they are rated for, so just fill up the tires outside (in the temperature you'll be riding in) to the desired pressure. If you fill them to the max pressure, then when you bring it inside the air will expand bringing the tires a little over max pressure. But this is harmless, especially since you aren't riding the bike inside. Of course, lower pressure is sometimes good during winter due to ice and snow requiring greater traction.
tl;dr fill up to desired pressure when outside (in the temperature you'll be riding in). Max pressure if you feel like it. Lower if you want traction for ice and snow
If you want. Higher adds visibility, but it also means that you aren't as visible from behind if you turn your head to the side. For maximum safety, have several rear lights. Specifically, one solid and one blinking, since blinking grabs attention, and solid is better for depth perception (so people know if you are really close in front of them)
There's nothing wrong with the bikes, it's just the name "gravel bike" that's a dumb meme if anything. They basically fit the gap between endurance road bikes and cyclocross bikes (which is a fairly small gap). If you ride mostly on pavement and only occasional gravel, get an endurance road bike. If you ride a mix of both or mostly gravel, get a "gravel bike". If you ride pavement and/or gravel, but also want to be able to ride on dirt and mellow singletrack and such, or just want a bit less road-like geometry for whatever reason, get cyclocross. Gravel bikes are just a half-way-between bike of road and cx. Nothing wrong with them.
The thing that is wrong is that the companies/marketers are trying to convince people that they need a gravel bike even if they already have a road and/or cx bike, which is completely false, because road and cx bikes can do the same stuff as gravel bikes
tl;dr don't buy one if you already have a cx bike. However, if you are looking to buy a nw commuter/weekend warrior bike, then sure a gravel bike would be a good option. Make sure it has rack mounts if you want them
There are loose threads all around my tire, what the hell is this? Do I need to toss these tires?
Get the Banjo Brothers backpack panniers. I have two of them, they're excellent. Waterproof, durable, work great as both panniers and as backpacks. I also talked to someone who's Banjo Brothers liner wore out, and they gave her a free replacement. Good company, affordable stuff, and high quality like the more expensive stuff. And the backpack/pannier bag is great for the dual functionality. The only thing I don't like is that the main compartment is only closed by folding over the top and buckling it; it would be nice to have a zipper. But it's not really an issue unless you're mountain biking or whatever where stuff could fly out, the closure is plenty secure for road riding, touring, commuting, etc.
Get more durable tires, or run tubeless.
Chains come assembled with just one break in the chain so you can route it through the drive train. You then connect the chain with either a master link or connecting pin (depending on the brand) which is included with the chain. If you fuck up and need a second you'll have to buy it separately.
SRAM chains are great because the masterlinks are generally re-usable, you just need a masterlink pliers to take them apart (the 10 and 11 speed masterlinks are not *supposed* to be re-used, but they can be)
Hard to see in the pic, but is that threads or those little rubber things? If the latter, they are sometimes there even on new tires. If it is threads... I would keep using it anyway, just make sure to carry a few tire boots with for emergencies if you are concerned
Is the BikeSmart shock pump good? The LBS I work at sells it, I would rather get something there than buy online. The only other ones they have are Specialized which are more expensive and I'm a poorfag.
Why are the lefties attempting to say that Cycling is a 'whites only' thing?
For Santa Cruz it seems that you're stuck with browsing both San Jose/SV and Monterey listings. There seems to be a guy in Salinas that is selling a Masi Speciale Strada for 500; looks to be a decent entry-level road bike.
>it's honestly just been spammed with Durianrider vegan bullshit.
Except he's right. A vegan diet will help a lot. Combine that with riding more and your health will skyrocket and you'll lose a lot of weight very fast.
Am I the only person who uses cycling to work as a way to stave off suicidal depression?
I think it's the only thing keeping me from truly losing it.
I wasn't trolling. It take it that was a bad thing. That's what I get for listening to fucking wikihow. The chain isn't worn apart from that one broken bit of the link, I've only had it since August and I haven't been riding it nearly as much as I should be. I'll run by a local place and let them take a look at it tomorrow.
>I wasn't trolling. It take it that was a bad thing.
Use bike-specific degreaser and lube, nothing else should ever be used on your chain
>The chain isn't worn apart from that one broken bit of the link, I've only had it since August and I haven't been riding it nearly as much as I should be
Then you will be fine using a new link or a masterlink or whatever you choose. A bike shop will probably give you a few spare links for free if they have any (though they will have to be the same width as your chain, which is determined by what speed drive train it is designed for; for example an 11 speed link will NOT work with a 9 speed chain)
Alternatively they probably have masterlinks for sale. Keep in mind that a masterlink only functions as an outer link, not an inner link. So if you lost a inner link and outer link, a masterlink won't work without removing an additional outer link and having your chain two links too short.
If this is all too confusing, bring your bike with the broken chain including the broken link(s) to the LBS and they'll get it sorted out.
Though if you want to figure it out yourself feel free to ask further questions or ask for clarification on anything that doesn't make sense, we'll be happy to further clarify/explain
Also, if you want any more help here, it would be good to see a pic of your chain where it's broken.
If you're just going to the LBS to have them fix it, don't worry about posting a pic here, just if you want more help from us
Here's the best shot I have of it. Imgur because I can't mess with the size stuff on this laptop. http://imgur.com/VAbDbYK
You can see the broken bit on the inner part of the left whatchamahoozit. I'm going to run by the LBS tomorrow to let them look at it and to pick up some real lube and degreaser, but I'm interested to get your takes on it.
total and complete dominance of cycling by a black man was actually a thing, once upon a time
I have a Vitus 979. i'm tired of friction shifting, and was thinking of getting an integrated shifting system. probably 105 5800 just for the price point. athena's out of reach, unfortunately.
1) the 979 is a very noodly frame. are integrated shifting systems susceptible to ghost shifting? for reference, the bottom bracket visibly moves up to a centimetre under heavy pedalling.
2) what crankset is gud (looking). the 105 crankset, while silver, looks a bit too modern (4 arm design, fat outer ring for stiffness). would an athena crankset still be compatible with an otherwise shimano set up?
Hard to tell what's broken in the pic. Did you take those few links off the chain entirely or did the pin come out or did you put it back together or what? Maybe a pic that shows that whole length of chain from the side?
I just noticed that it wasn't bending as it should and felt the broken/bent bit when applying lube to the chain. It seems that something either broke or bent part of the link and that's causing it to not flex properly anymore. Now that it's been fiddled with it keeps a permanent kink in whatever angle it's set in.
Could be something is actually damaged or could just be a stiff link which requires moving the chain pin very slightly. If something is damaged you should be able to put a masterlink in there
are there any other options for inline quick release brake mechanisms?
I want to set one up as a parking brake for my front wheel.
Say you're cycle touring and need to stop at a shop to get some supplies.
What the fuck are you going to do with your bike fully loaded with panniers and all the rest? Take everything off and somehow carry it all in the shop, leaving your bike outside?
Also you get to a campsite, but want to go to the local pub for dinner. What do you do with your stuff? Do campsites have places where you can secure your luggage? Will you have to take all your shit into the pub?
sounds like you've never put cargo on a front rack or low rider panniers.
sounds like you've never leaned your bike against the wall only to have the front wheel roll out from under it right when you look away.
sounds like you've never considered, instead of locking up, subtly disabling your bike as you run into the coffee shop
sounds like you've never mired sheldon's OTB
think before you speak or get the fuck out of here you ignorant faggot
>wrap cable tie around brake handle and handlebar
>squeeze brake enough to stop the wheel, but not all the way down
>tighten cable tie around lever and snip off the excess
>instant parking brake
Some places might let you keep your bike inside if you explain what you are doing.
I don't tour (yet) but I ride with panniers. They have backpack straps so I can wear one as a backpack. I take one with on my back when I leave my bike, and I lock the other pannier to my rack. Sure, someone could still dig through it and take stuff, but I take the valuable stuff in the pannier I wear. I leave spare clothes, food, etc in the pannier that I lock to my bike.
I use a Dakine ski lock to lock my pannier http://www.evo.com/locks/dakine-micro-lock.aspx
My panniers are Banjo Brothers Waterproof Backpack Pannier
Not a perfect solution, I know, but when I just leave my bike for a few minutes and lock it by a storefront where thieves will be hesitant to mess with stuff, it's fairly safe. I suggest you look up bike touring blogs, forums, etc and see what other people do. I read an article or post about it once, the guy said he sometimes takes the bike inside and the people that work there (where ever it is he is stopping) will let him keep it inside, and some people seem to be content just leaving the bags outside on the bike but taking one bag with the most valuable stuff
I use Dupont because I can use it on my motorcycle's chain, and its $7.50 for a big ass can off Amazon/Walmart.
For the most part people are always amazed that some ones touring on a bike and they won't fuck with you. I mean, they would be literally stealing from a homeless person.
Also, like anon said, because you're touring most stores and businesses will be more than happy to cooperate with any requests for special storage of your gear.
As long as you're not dumb about it, and always ask the locals about what's the safest thing to do and what they would do, you'll be fine.
has anyone used any of the Garmin cycling computers/gps units? I was gonna get a cateye one, but apparently my health insurance through my job has some weird shit set up where you can using the garmin connect shit to prove you are working out, and earn amazon gift cards.
Given that I cycle to work daily, I feel like I'm just leaving money on the table by not gaming this system.
For cold weather (below freezing), Gore-Tex ski gloves. I like the Burton ones a lot.
For moderate weather (30s-40s F, maybe 50s), I like the Sporthill 3SP gloves and the Giro Ambient
For warm weather (60s-100+ F, maybe 50s), I like Giro Bravo (comes in full finger and cut-off finger versions)
Enjoy ruining your chain faggot
nigga u srs?
>plus even though you have to spend a lot originally for a tent, sleeping bag etc it all works out cheaper than staying in hotels and B&Bs.
Do you know what bikepacking is? Bikepacking generally involves sleeping in a tent. And I don't see how being cheaper is a bad thing
I read something about a guy touring, I think in a third world place but idk, he would pay homeless guys to watch his stuff. He'd pay a small amount of money up front, and also take a mugshot of them to discourage them from running with his stuff, and tell them that he'll pay them a lot more afterwards when he comes to get his stuff, assuming everything is there intact.
Not necessarily a route I'd trust, but something to think about
Not an answer to your question, but I have a neat little tip relating to gloves.
If you make a little cut just under a fingertip of your glove, you can easily slide your own fingertip out, and so use the screen on your smartphone without taking the whole glove off. Depending on the material, it won't fray and so you can just leave it be, otherwise you'd need to get your sewing kit out. Betting than paying extra for "conductive" fingertips.
Depending on the climate you ride in and the temperature swings, the most effective systems I've seen are either the fingerless glove/mitten hybrids or a lighter pair of gloves paired with an hardshell of bigger mittens.
For example, i ride with some deer skin gloves
in the cold or rain, but when it's both cold and rainy, I wear those gloves and then put a waterproof mitten over them.
If it's real cold get some wool lined leather gloves.
oh shit dog, me too. In san luis.
Those leather gloves do me find around here.
usually the biggest issue is windchill factor, if your hands are damp, it's not that bad.
I wouldn't suggest just straight wool gloves because they wind cuts through.
I have a Garmin. I'd say it's not bad. There are lots of watch/computer choices, and plenty of wireless sensors, all bound up in a rather closed and expensive ecosystem.
The system is pretty convenient once you actually buy the gear. You get a wireless dongle which you connect to your PC, and the watch automatically syncs the recorded workouts to your Garmin account when it's in range. You can then use the Garmin account to view your workouts, and also create and modify workout plans which are then transmitted to your watch.
I'd say it's a good bet that the insurance company would register the commutes as workouts, provided they're not stupidly short. Even if you don't go all-out, keep in mind that the same system has to acknowledge obese people going on brisk walks or whiling away on an elliptical, since that's where the insurance payout savings would be.
>depends what stage of the tour de france you are on
DON'T USE WD40 YOU FUCKING IDIOT. That is NOT good for bike chains. Use bike specific degreaser and lube.
Also, lube doesn't fix stiff links. Ideally, use a chain tool that has a tight link cradle, put the tight link in the tight link cradle, turn the pin pusher 45 degrees. If your chain tool doesn't have a tight link cradle, use the normal cradle. If you don't have a chain tool (you should get one), you can flex the chain back and forth by hand -- look up a youtube video on how to fix stiff links.
DON'T USE PLIERS
I just got a pair pic related pads. Unfortunately, my v-brakes currently use the type of pads with a threaded insert molded right in, so I have no way to mount them.
If I get two more pairs with the holders included, can I count on them fitting in the brake, or are there compatibility issues there too?
Is this system standardized to the point where I can just pick up a cheapo holder, chuck the cheapo pads and put mine in, or do I have to get the same brand?
Literally any backpack depending on how short your commutes are. I personally hated getting huge sweat lines on my shoulders so I use a single strap messenger bag. I got it for 2 dollaroos and I love it. Can carry everyday shit up to a full dissasembeld bike and it all fits. Panniers are definately the best option for work commuting desu senpai
Looking for some bar tape. The stuff I have on right now is beat up and nasty. Any anons have suggestions? Would something a little thicker tape be better for winter riding?
If you buy a higher end v-brake like a Avid Single Digit 7 they come with cartridge shoes. You should just return those and get the threaded insert ones cause it's not worth the price to just get shoes.
>he adds unnecessary weight and complication to his bicycle
Can somebody recommend just a basic light to slap on my bike? I'm just trying to find something to let me ride around at night when I go out to a concert or something and I don't want a car to hit my stupid ass.
Amazon is the best since I could have it here by Wednesday if that was the case.
I know for sure they measure them as workouts, especially since my commute is over 6 miles each way.
Just wasn't sure if it was worth it to drop at least $120 freedom bucks on a device if there was a chance that it sucks ass.
The system is solid enough, just read through the reviews for the devices you're considering and make sure they don't have some shitty design flaws, like the watchband falling apart in a GPS watch. That was a problem with my watch (forerunner 610), so I had to get a replacement strap off ebay.
As for whether or not it's worth it, consider the premium you'll be paying over the cycle computer you were going to buy anyway (and also whether or not you were really going to buy it). Compare that to the amount of money you expect to get through reduced insurance premiums and Amazon credit.
It also pays to consider the true value of the credit, based on how overpriced the products are and how likely you are to use them. For example, my employer gives me about $200 a year in store credit for sporting gear, but the participating stores are overpriced so it's more like $100-$150.
look at the lezyne offerings. put a red light on each seat stay so that motorists don't mistake you for a far-off-vehicle
Is it better to use even (lets say 39-13)
Or is it better to use even (40-14) in terms of chain wear?
Fizik microtex. It'll last two years easily, and feel good. If you want squishy comfort, get gloves
That stuff is dog shit. Well memed.
Get whatever 5 dollar light they have at the hardware store. Lights are a consumable. They'll either break, or get stolen, or fall off. Better to buy 5 5$ lights, then buy 1 25$ light.
Lezyne lights are frufru crap.
1. Yes, if your BB is moving around, changing the distance the cable travels could pull the derailers a bit - it's hard to say predict whether or not this would be enough to produce ghost shifting, since you figure the rest of the frame (where the cable guides are) is going flex too. On the positive side, with indexed shifting the cable stays anchored in place in the shifter so the ghost shifting would be - at worst - the chain attempting to climb/fall onto a higher gear for a few instants. At least it wouldn't be as bad as friction shifters which can be tugged out of position by a flexy frame and actually change gear by ghost shift.
I wouldn't worry too much about it, but if you want to play it safe, stick to indexing systems with fewer speeds (more cable pull-per-shift), and look at Campy and SRAM drivetrains, they pull more cable per shift than Shimano.
2. An Athena crankset will work with Shimano - there are some slight differences in ramp/pin design across brands, and chainrings have gotten slightly narrower to suit chains that are designed for cassettes with more (narrower) cogs, but generally speaking your drivetrain and shifting performance aren't effected by crank selection.
the 979 is set up like a late 80s bike anyways. buying a 90s bike would only get campy 8 speed with campy tax or 105 5500.
>shifters hold cable in place
exactly what I was thinking. my friction shifters do slip lots. alas, it was 10 speed before shimano shifters looked less like bulbous monstrosities and had under wrap cabling.
is veloce or centaur any good, or am I better off avoiding anything less than athena?
that's good to know
Veloce and Centaur are fine, just slightly heavier and they don't allow you to sweep your rear derailer to higher gears (have to press thumb button for each gear, same as Shimano/SRAM)
What I figured, I actually already paid £49 for it so fairly happy. It's a pretty colour too