Good job not falling prey to that con artist. The only reason I could ever see that being a 65 Euro job is if you somehow managed to completely fuck your bottom bracket and the threads on your bike.

The first thing I do with problems like this is usually the same. Take it apart, examine everything, build a list of possible suspects, put every thing back together (and make sure everything is secure), test it again, then go through your list of suspects and try to think which is most likely to cause the problem.
By doing this, you find anything that's blatantly obvious once everything is apart and can usually find out what's wrong even if it isn't obvious. This is also important because you'd be surprised how often simply taking something apart and putting it back together fixes the issue.

Since I haven't been able to look at the bike personally, take my advice with a grain of salt. I think the worst likely scenario is that your axle broke, but you'd definitely know if it was something that severe I think. Regardless, that's a cheap enough fix once you track down a replacement. The ball bearings are also an easy fix once you get the right sized bearings.

Even if you can't find whatever is wrong, it's almost definitely the bottom bracket is the crankset wobbles on both sides. In that case, you can just buy a sealed cartridge BB for 1/3 of the price that the guy at the bike shop wanted.

>>932299

Cool. Thanks for reassuring me. The bicycle shops around here are really eager to try to con anyone they see as a noob.

I'll get to fixing it when I can get a hold of my tools.

>>932305
Yeah, bikes shops are like that in a lot of places. You'll see them get a lot of flack on this board. Generally people try to find one good shop in their area and stick to it.

If you don't already have one, pick up a bottom bracket tool. Which tool you need will depend on what kind of bottom bracket you have. The tool shouldn't cost you much. Completely replacing your BB should still be significantly cheaper even if you have to buy the tool and it will be handy later.

asuming a bb is 20 euro and the hourly labour fee is around 40 euro that price (replacing a bb) is pretty standard.
However I myself find the price way too high too and I work at an lbs.

Nonetheless I wish you luck
I hope its a shimano bb they put in cuz other brands(using plastic cups can be godverdomme hard to remove.
Where do you live in the Netherlands?
The hague reporting here

>>932311
>hourly labour fee is around 40 euro
I know shops have overhead prices and all of that, but 40 euro still seems really high for an hourly rate. After you account for expenses, the mechanic is still making what, 25 euro an hour? For something any wanker with tools and google could do?
Also
>Implying it should take a mechanic longer than 15 minutes to replace a BB

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174 KB, 1525x702

>>932312
I take anywhere from 20mins to an hour(the most FUBAR,stuck and stripped BB's

And yes 40 euro Is steep,but it's pretty common here.

>>932327
>pic

jeezus christ. did you have to re-tap the BB shell to get the new cup on?

>>932344
Its not mine,But I had to re-tap quite alot of BB shells.

Suprisingly its the cheap plastic cups that are IMPOSSIBLE to remove withtout it desintegrating and having to remove it bit by bit(think small screwdriver and hammer)
A metal one (esp steel-on-steel) will budge eventually.

Heck,Today my b0ss and me wreched a pedal wrench trying to remove a pedal from an alu crank(with a 2 meter cheater bar lol)because manufacturers and LBS are retarded and cant be arsed to put a bit of grease or anti-seize on the threads.

We got it loose by putting the pedal in a vice though.