Been using Hoppes for years, bought this crap recently in between pricier bulk purchases, and holy fucking shit
stuff must be 75% rubbing alcohol, I'm pretty sure i've sustained permanent brain damage and minor vision loss in the 30 minutes I was cleaning my pistols the other day. gnarly hangover type feeling all day for 2 days alongside headaches and extremely hard time focusing my eyes.
excellent CLP tho
Is it like ballistol?
>>30043621
Are you cleaning in a ventilated area?
>>30043621
>not cleaning in a well ventilated area
>>30043651
in my totally open apartment with windows open
it's impossible not to catch a heavy whiff of this shit evaporating if you're within 5 feet of the bottle as you drip it onto your gun. like sticking your face in a glass of absynth - I have the liquid dropper version not the aerosol pictured but same formula
>>30043621
check it for MEK (methyl ethyl keytones) or other esters (have methyl or ethyl in name)
you may be sensitive to esters which is pretty common
Even if you are not sensitive esters are very damaging in a poorly ventilated area. I worked with industrial inkjet equipment in a previous job that use MEK as an ink solvent/carrier. That and other volatile esters are some dangerous shit unless properly vented.
>>30043683
wellp, guess i've got brain damage. This shit is the definition of volatile
>>30043707
If you have a patio do it out there.
You could try a filtered respirator too, if you wanna go full retard.
There's no magic pixie dust they sprinkle in gun products
If you google
>[product name] MSDS pdf
you can see exactly what's a thing is made from. Here's Hoppes #9 solvent.
http://www.copquest.com/knowledgebase/MSDS_Hoppes_No_9_Solvent.pdf
Most gun lubes are mineral oil or refined vegetable oil. Most combination cleaner and lubricant are mineral oil + naphtha or alcohol. There's nothing wrong with that but you usually pay a hefty markup for the gun-stuff label. Save your money, buy your gun cleaning and lube supplies in the automotive section.
>>30043707
The good news is you will get kidney pains usually before the brain damage kicks in.
If you are not throwing up and cramping than you probably didn't get an acute dose.
But it really is nothing to take lightly. One of my buddies taught the training course to the factory workers who needed to program and maintain the printers.
The training room was very poorly ventilated since it was a three day class and the only one who was in it for more than 3 days was the teacher.
We got busy and the classes were non-stop, way beyond what are feeble ventilation system could handle. Within a year he was stuttering, had involuntary shakes, involuntary laughing, and tingling and numbness in his hands.
Very sad, he loved the job and wouldn't listen to anyone telling him to give it a break. I did pull some strings to get some fans installed to at least blow more of the fumes out of the lab out a nearby dock door.
I'm not usually a fan of suing companies, but I told upper management several times about the issue and showed them videos of his classes when he started and his classes after a year had gone buy. The change was clear and undeniable.
They did nothing. I ended up moving to a different division and lost touch with that group. My guess is that things did not go well with him. Very unfortunate, hope he sued them to the poor house, but doubtful.
>>30044336
Some gun products use chlorated or chlorinated esters, so saying that they are all safe is not correct.
See Eezox as an example.
I use CPL for cleaning/storage/lubing with very light application of red lithium grease to action/bolt groups and anywhere friction might occur on the weapon.
This combination has kept my guns rest free, clean and ready to go after extended storage without having to reapply lubricant before shooting.
>>30043621
I clean my barrels with either Butch's Bore Shine or Wipe Out.
Butch's Bore Shine will work on any part to clean up gunk, but watch out because if you have a piece with shitty fake bluing, it'll eat it right the fuck off.
>>30043621
>ITT faggots don't know about Ed's Red.
>>30043621
If you want the most god tier lube, get SLiP 2000. See the Filthy 14 videos.
>>30044835
>Butch's Bore Slime
>>30044462
I never said everything is safe. I said look up what's in the can and get the cheaper version of the same exact thing.
I've been using Remoil spray cause everyone says it's the worst. Fuck it I've got a big can.
>>30043621
I just use Ballistol. I don't really shoot anything particularly dirty, and I'm not going for extreme accuracy, so it does the job fine for me. It stinks, but it's non-toxic. Also, it's good for corrosive ammo- mix it one part Ballistol to ten parts water, and squirt your barrel down (as an alternative to boiling water).
For grease I'm trying out MPro7 Synthetic (again, non-toxic).
I'll stock up on ATF every time my local dollar store has it for $1.50/qt
Works just fine
newfag question here, will hoppes protect my barrel, or should I slather it in cock grease or something?
is normal hoppes as fucked as that shit?
Cleaning thread? I'm not sure I'm cleaning my guns right, my procedure usually is
>CLP in the receiver/large, open areas, spray and wipe out with paper towel/patches
>CLP, Q-Tips, patches to focus on hard to reach, areas. Also the small parts, dust covers, trigger group, bolt, etc.
>Bore swab with bore snake, Hoppes and patches until clean
>Reassemble, wipe exterior with paper towel moistened with Windex
>tfw have to make waffenfett from scratch since can't kind any for my K31 raifu.
Anyone know where I can find some lanolin?
>>30049407
Dude, Amazon. 100% Lanolin is sold as boob-cream for nursing mothers.
I'm using M-Pro 7 cleaner, which I was able to snag a gallon for a great price. As for lubrication, I'm using Super Lube oil and Super Lube grease. Happy with my results.
>>30048880
Yes, Hoppes will protect the barrel just fine (run a dry patch through and enough residue will still remain to protect it) for reasonable periods of time. If you aren't going to use the gun for years then you should probably look into something else or better yet, take the gun out and inspect and wipe down periodically.
It's most important to control humidity. You need to be very vigilant if you live near the seashore or don't have air conditioning.
>>30043651
>>30043680
>y-yes of course I am! w-what am i, s-stupid?
>>30049043
Windex? Get rid of that step. Windex removes oil.
I don't think you should use paper towels except just to absorb spilled solvent. It's very abrasive. Cotton patches are best.
>>30043621
Been using it for awhile and haven't had that kind of experience at all. Are fucking snorting it faggot?
Mobil 1
>>30047219
Can you explain this please?
My process is stripping the gun
(i go for long periods of time without cleaning but not high round counts usually 450rnds for a 3 month period)
then i soak each part outside in CLP foam spray from the local wally world
then i use the blue shop towels to wipe and remove what build up i have
Then i run steel wool over carbon build up areas to break it free and use quite a bit of time removing every bit i see or find
After that i go thru the bore with hoppes bore cleaner while scrubbing it real good with the brush rod making sure to work anything in the lands and grooves loose along with copper and lead
Then i run a bit of aerokroil thru it (made in nashville tn i believe we use it at my factory on alot of areas that run water over everything and to prevent seizing up) to let it dissolve or break what the clp couldnt and proceed to scrub again and then wipe clean and scrup till its clean i also do this to gas tubes or pistons and carbon build up areas.
After i make all parts broken up of carbon and such i use bore blaster to blast all the parts and get all the gunk left on it or in it out extractors spring everything till its clean.
Then i wipe any and all oils up with blue shop towels and spray with rem dry lube and make sure all parts are dry and there is no wet spots.
Next is use red and tacky grease very lightly on all parts anything that moves glides or rotates gets a very light coating.
Then i use aerokroil on a pad to lightly wet all metal parts and to clean any debris off like hair or such from animals and i put guns up after i play with em for like a few hours hust cause theyre all nice and clean. But definatly would like to learn more about cleaning my guns better just the process my grandfather used and my weapons wont rust at alleven after hikes in the rain or mud or anything likethat in the south u.s.
For some reason though my buddy just puts his in a bathtube with dawn and lets them sit does this actually work? Sorry for long post.
Auto correct and small screen keyboards suck sorry for bad spelling on post
>>30043621
OP, the majority of that stuff IS just Ethanol. I saw it on the shelf at wal-mart, once the Ethanol evaporates I saw little in the way of lubricant left behind. Pretty common acute chem exposure symptoms; Drink a lot of water, you'll feel better once your body flushes out the stuff.
>>30046811
Rem Oil is 50% mineral spirits and honestly a shit lubricant. Easily proven on the MSDS sheet.
any Ausfags in here use Inox as a CLP? Ive been using Ballistol for a while, and decided to test out Inox as it seems to be very similar. Im pretty impressed with it so far, seems to lubricate a little bit better, is almost odourless which is a big bonus over Ballistol. And being an Ausfag product, i can get it a lot cheaper than ballistol.
>>30043621
I wasted my time with a lot of recommendations from other people, I decided to say fuck it and actually look for companies that invest some time into developing a proper product. KG products are awesome and they have a very proven track record for developing firearms finishes and cleaners, bore tech is fairly similar too so either brand will work great. The bore tech stuff is nontoxic so you can clean inside without any gloves and it cleans so fucking fast and easy it should be illegal.
Since you guys like homebrew lubricants, if you ever feel CLP 'isn't enough' here's how to make it lubricate 1000x better. You'll need:
- Any Mil-Spec CLP.
- A Bottle of "Prolong Engine Treatment", available at Pep Boys or Autozone, or online as well. Do not substitute this product for others.
Add the Prolong to the CLP at a rate of approx. 1 part in 10. Ex, for every 9 ounces of CLP, add 1 ounce of Prolong. A bottle of Prolong will treat approximately a gallon or CLP, meaning if you make this stuff up in bulk you'll have enough to last you literally years.
Prolong is a metal treatment additive which happens to be very similar to the one used in Weapon Shield, FP-10, Miltec-1, Ultima-Lube, and many others. As the gun heats up it causes rough metal areas to smooth out on a microscopic scale, polishing out rough areas and allowing it to function better.
You can also use this with Mobil 1, same ratio. All the rules for petroleum lubricants apply, don't try to mix this stuff with any bio-based lubricants or you'll have a sticky mess to deal with.
I'm freaking out. I don't shoot my guns often, and clean them less often that that. I make sure they're oiled up, and keep them in the safe for months at a time. I live in AZ so should I worry about rust?
What about all the carbon build up? Will that solidify and be unremovable if I don't clean it right away?
Will my barrels encounter pre-mature wear if I leave lead and copper fouling in there?
Pic unrelated
>>30050589
Rust probably won't be so bad for you, it depends on the air humidity. You'll be fine if you leave shit inside of it isn't corrosive, make sure you're using some good cleaning chemicals otherwise it's pointless.
>>30050589
Grandpa would say "Never let the sun set on a dirty gun", but we're not shooting corrosive ammo anymore, so it's harder to answer that question.
Dry Climate helps retard rust. Carbon does attract moisture however.
The fouling in the barrel may or may not be hurting anything. Just clean and oil your guns before you put them into storage, and have an 'inspection day' once a year (or more often depending on OCD) where you give everything a once over and re-clean and oil if necessary.
If you shoot Corrosive Ammo, clean ASAP or rust is not an "If" but "when"
>>30049966
You need to be 18 to post here.
