why does this happen sometimes when I reload?
just worn out brass? bad dies?
>>29250610
how normal is this anyway? happened to 4/100 rounds today.
Bullets crooked during seating cause the bulge. Also looks like you are crimping too much.
Flare the case more. You should be able to drop about 1/16 inch of bullet into the case. Ensure the bullet is as straight as possible before pressing.
Make sure you have a taper crimp die, not roll crimp. Only crimp enough to to remove the flare. You shouldn't be crimping so much that you dent the playing/jacketing.
Also read this:
Seat and crimp:
1. Put a case that has been sized and flared into the shell holder. Lower the handle on your press, which will raise the case to the top of the stroke. Then, screw the seating/crimp die into the press until you feel the crimping portion of the die contact the case mouth. Once this happens, back the die out one full turn. Tighten lock ring.
2. Make sure your bullet seating stem is backed almost all the way out. Put a bullet in the case and run it up into the die. At the top of the stroke, run your seating stem down untill you feel it contact the tip of the bullet. Lower ram and continue to screw in seating stem until you have seated the bullet to your desired COL (cartridge overall length).
3. Now, back your seating stem almost all the way out. Run the round back into the die. Loosen your die lock ring and screw the die body down untill you feel it come in contact with the case mouth (again...you did this in step #1). Once it comes in contact, you know that as you screw the die body down further, you will be applying more crimp. Keep screwing the die body down until you have achieved your desired amount of crimp. Once achieved, tighten die lock ring.
4. Run the round back up into the die and at the top of the stroke, screw in your seating stem until it comes in firm contact with the bullet. Now you can seat and crimp with the same die with no problems. Remember, the taper crimp just removes the flare. It should not dig into the side of the bullet.
Over crimping.
>>29250878
i don't crimp at all as far as I know. I just pop the primer out, clean the casings in a tumbler, put powder in and press the bullet with a Lee brand die. I have to press it deep enough to make the cartridge the correct length, there is no crimp adjustment.
I only use two dies, the primer poker and the bullet seater.
>>29250895
>It should not dig into the side of the bullet.
i've reloaded and shot about 800 rounds and all of them were crimped so hard the bullet has marks in it if it took the cartridge apart to check after I pressed the bullet in.
I'm using Lee brand dies and the bullet pressing die crimps the case into the bullet hard enough to leave a mark, like I said, but I cannot adjust this die out any more or the bullet it too long.
what the hell am I doing wrong here?
>>29251018
A line around the bullet is normal. A dent or torn plating/jacketing is not.
I haven't used lee dies. I use an rcbs carbide 3 die set along with a universal depriming die.
Deprime brass, clean/tumble, size, flare, then seat/crimp.
I took the deprime pin out of my deprime/sizing die so I'm not running dirty brass into my sizing die.
>>29251279
>size, flare,
the primer poking die is supposed to be a full case sizing die also, according to the Lee die manual. the die set comes with an extra crimping die to be used after the bullet seating die but I have never used it or seen a need to use it.
>I took the deprime pin out of my deprime/sizing die so I'm not running dirty brass into my sizing die.
how do you deprime then?
>>29251312
I use a universal depriming die before I clean primer pockets and tumble.
You need a flaring die. That will solve that bulge on the case.
Flaring also means crimping to remove the flare.
>>29250948
you sure there is no crimper? the seading depth is determined by the adjusting knob on the top of the die, the crimp is determined by how far the die is screwed into the press. unscrew it a bit and then screw the top screw knob in a little to compensate.
also make sure your cases are flared. even loading dirty non tumbled cases shouldn't do that.
>>29251312
you probably have a taper or roll crimp seating die then the set came with the extra lee fcd factory crimp die. just because you think your seating die isn't a crimping die doesn't mean it isn't a crimping die.
>>29252534
>the seading depth is determined by the adjusting knob on the top of the die, the crimp is determined by how far the die is screwed into the press. unscrew it a bit and then screw the top screw knob in a little to compensate.
i think you might have found my problem. don't know why I didn't think of this.
>you sure there is no crimper?
there is a crimping die to be used after the bullet seating die according to the manual but I don't use it. there is no flare die included, nor any mention of flaring in the Lee die set manual.
>>29252563
I think the seating die does crimp, it sure looks like it does. in crimps the top of the brass off as a tiny little brass sliver if I adjust it too short.
>>29252568
lee makes a special snowflake crimp die, the lee fcd, they are very proud of it and as such include it in some of their die sets. their seating die(and every seating die i've ever seen) is also a crimp die, if you don't want it to crimp you unscrew it enough that it doesn't crimp.
this is probably your problem, on some of your thicker brass the bass is getting crimped into the bullet too soon and too hard and as such it's buckling the cases.
different manufacturers brass and different age (cycles of being reloaded - not "years old")
check and see if some of the brass that does it is all a certain headstamp, although to batches of brass from the same headstamp could be different thicknesses.
you shouldn't "need" to flare if you are loading fmj, unless this continues to be a problem, then you could probably have a smith polish out your sizing die a bit to be a minuscule amount wider to not size the brass as tight.
crimping for automatic rounds is only to remove the flare put in it if you flared it. the bullet should be held in place by the case's "neck tension" alone.
revolvers,, lever guns and lead bullets made for a crimp is a different story
>>29252682
>the brass that does it is all a certain headstamp,
they happened to all be different but I think your right about my bullet seating die being screwed in too far. I followed the manuals instructions (screw in until it hits the bullet holder then back off x turns), I think I'll back it off a bit more and adjust the seating screw on top of the die to compensate as recommended above.
thanks /k/
>>29252721
have fun and don't blow yourself up kid.
reloading is safe until it's not, don't screw up, stick to powders that fill the case so you can't accidentaly doublecharge etc...
also don't be an asshat like me and load up 400 rounds of 9mm with too low a powder charge to cycle your silencer.
(tested with gun for reliable cycle of subsonics, put a 16 ounce can on the end and it's now a manual cycle. it's like the feinstein special of weak ass ammo lol. really quiet though.
>>29252797
i mean really, you have any idea how long it takes to cycle 400 rounds one at a time in a handgun. i still have some left.
>>29250610
Those are just the uncircumcised rounds. The procedure on how to circumcise is all over the internet so ill just send you to google from here.
I can get 9mm locally for $11 a box.
Is hand loading them going to save me any money over that?
It's already been said, but you are over crimping the fuck out of those rounds... back your seating die out and set it using a factory completed round like the instructions say.
>>29253151
$11 per hundred?
mine are like 7 cent bullet, 3 cent primer, 3 cent powder so like $13/100
>>29253151
I personally have never factored the cost of reloading vs factory ammo. I think its fun and relaxing. If i were to roughly estimate costs, without including the cost of the press and dies, i would say it costs half as much per round. I also dont use expensive powder for the majority of my plinking ammo.
Reloading question.
Doe anyone have 10mm load data for bullseye powder? I haven't bought bullets yet but i will probably buy 200 grain or 180.
>>29250610
A crimp like that is acceptable when you're loading big bore hardcasts for a revolver... But you're loading 9mm, which does not need much if any crimp at all. That kind of crimp is actually going to cause the bullet to be more poorly retained than if you went with a straight crimp. Look at factory loaded top shelf ammunition and mimic what you see instead of this nonsense.
>>29253329
I don't, but I think bullseye is going to be way too fast for 10mm and wouldn't get anywhere near filling the case.
Your crimp is jacked up super high...ease it off. It's grabbing the brass while you're still pushing the round up, and crushing it downward.
>>29250610
You arnt reaming the brass out enough before you seat the bullets. Adjust your setup
>>29253400
Fug. Guess ill have to order powder too.
>>29252797
>>29252814
No one cares you fucking faggot
>>29253257
>>29253281
Okay thanks.
I've reloaded revolver rounds a bit but never thought it would be cost effective for 9mm plinking. Maybe I'll start saving my brass.
>>29253386
and these bullets are only crimped like this because the recoil in the handcannons they sometimes go in can cause the bullet to shift if they are not crimped, the shocks ammo in automatics subjected to is negligible and won't cause setback.
