I'm considering getting a PTR91. Anything I should know before buying one?
The one my friend has he had to send back because it wouldn't cycle properly. Only complaint he has with it now is that it hates military surplus ammo.
Which one you buying? I own a PTR SC
>>28060556
Buy one with the paddle release from atlantic firearms, or wait until they're standard on all the models
>>28060556
It is strongly recommended that you replace the extractor and extractor spring with HK parts if you have the means. Helps with cycling issues. It will take any and all HK parts, although some non-milspec foregrips won't fit without modification. Most CETME parts will work as well, except for;
>Bolt Carriers
>Bolt Head
>Cocking Tube
>Individual fire control group parts like trigger, sear, hammer (can be swapped out as a set)
>Locking Lever for bolt carrier
>Locking Piece
>Recoil Buffer (Unless using HK buttstock)
>Support for Cocking Handle
>Trunions
>>28060613
This saves you the bother of installing it yourself, and probably a few shekels.
Welcome to the master race.
is the century arms c308 any good or should i spend a little more to get the ptr 91?
I don't want to spend so much to get a real hk
that isn't worth it for a stamped steel rifle
>>28060636
PTRBro, I've been shooting PPU Softpoint and every round has had a bulging primer and a ding right on the mouth of the casing. No jams, and ejection is consistent. Any idea what could be up with it?
>>28060644
Save the money and get the PTR. If you shop around you should be able to find one about as cheap as a C308.
DO NOT get the AW serial number. Stick to single A. Also read up on their huge recall. They listed a fuck ton of serial numbers off on their main site.
>>28060556
Before you buy it the number one thing to look for is the bolt gap. (The gap from the bolt carrier to the bolt itself, measured from the magwell)
>HK chop the bolt closed on an empty chamber, don't baby it or your measurement will be off.
>Take a feeler gauge and stick it in the BCG's gap.
>It should be between .010 - .020 Inch
Also check for ground bolts/carriers to get the gap "in".
Too small of a gap means the rollers are locked too much and it will cycle unreliably with different ammo, if at all. Too large and the rollers are not locked enough and you'll end up doing damage to your gun.
http://www.hkpro.com/forum/hk-reference-library/130473-how-does-bolt-gap-effect-way-gun-functions-2.html
>>28060556
Get ready to clean it to hell and back ever range trip...
>>28060656
>Any idea what could be up with it?
I know that early PTRs had a lot of issues like this, but new ones shouldn't have trouble. It has to do with the subtle difference in cartridge dimensions for 7.62x51 NATO and .308.
>>28060688
It's an A3R from Atlantic, got it two years ago.
>>28060709
Then you shouldn't have had any bolt gap issues from the factory, but I suppose you might. >>28060664 This anon already covered it.
>>28060726
Yeah, I've only had one jam (case didn't clear port, didn't even double feed) in the 400+ rounds I've put through it, and it shot a 2 inch group at 100 yards with the PPU softpoint, but mine destroys casings more than I've seen other peoples'. The flutes are actually very pronounced deformations in the case neck
How accurate is a PTR 91 GI? I want to either get a PTR 91, a FAL, or an RPR.
>>28060556
First off, get to know the offerings of robertrtg and HKparts. They are both great resources in getting parts for your gun.
New PTRs are shipping with paddle release. Try not to blow your load too soon and get stuck with one that has the shitty button release.
Also, there is no last round bolt hold open so get used to the click and nothing happening. Or learn to count your rounds.
Follow the break in procedures and avoid the cheap stuff for the first couple hundred rounds. Did it with my gun and haven't had a problem ever.
If you are the type that will tend to grip the gun closer to the mag well with your supporting hand, I recommend getting the wide forearm guard that covers the metal area that the slim forearm doesn't. It can get pretty hot after a couple of mags.
Have a feeler gauge set ready and get used to checking the bolt gap after each trip to the range. Especially while you are still breaking in the gun.
Not a must-have mod, but if you are having trouble operating the cocking handle look into getting the extended handle. It makes a world of difference.
Learn how to take the bolt carrier group apart and putting it back together. It makes cleaning more thorough which is important if you use the cheap stuff.
Speaking of cleaning, don't forget to clean the trunnion where the rollers engage. It can have quite an effect on the bolt gap measurement.
Contrary to popular belief, you CAN reload spent brass after it's taken a trip through a PTR. However it is a pain in the ass and most reloaders choose to not bother and just shoot steel case ammo.
>>28060644
Century partnered with PTR to produce the C308. PTR makes the barrel, receiver, and the trigger housing for the C308. All the internal stuff is same old Century surplus parts like the Century CETME. Quality is a better than the old CETME, but it's still a crap shoot. Not a big deal if you keep it as a range toy. Also people tend to blame the gun first and not the crappy ammo or the 50yo mags no matter if it's a Century or PTR.
Also keep in mind that the front and rear sights are different.
>>28060772
Get an RPR if you are looking to do long range 500+yd shooting.
>>28060657
>DO NOT get the AW serial number. Stick to single A.
Why not?
>>28060665
>not cleaning your guns after range trips anyway
So basically this is a $1000+ rifle that needs to be babied and dicked with just to make sure it works right.
How does the DSA SA58 compare against this? Wanting a .308 rifle but not one that is going to be a pain in the ass to own.
>>28060848
>needs to be babied and dicked with
Not really
Just keep track of the bolt gap during break in or if it starts doing weird shit
The end
>>28060824
I'm mostly looking to get one of those three for removing deer and filling my freezer. From what I've been reading about the PTR 91, it can shoot 1 MOA and less. Can a PTR 91 be modded to shoot further past 500 yards accurately should I want a long range rifle?
>>28060890
*deer and hogs
Damn phone.
>>28060890
Sub-MOA is possible with a PTR, but not without some modification (trigger job and MSG90-style cocking tube, and forearm. No one is shooting consistent 1MOA out of the box. Most people are shooting around 1.5-2MOA which is still pretty good for a battle rifle design.
>>28060556
>>28060613
This. There's also talk of a factory installed steel lower for the GI model as well
If you're looking at
>>28060980
Are there longer barrels available for the PTR? 18 inch and shorter barrels don't seem very appealing to me when firing 308.
>>28060848
>needs to be babied and dicked with
It doesn't need it; people are just retards.
>>28061307
The MSG-91SS comes with a 20" barrel.
>>28061346
> $2,600 for a MSG-91SS
I'll just buy another barrel then.
>>28060890
You can get sub-MOA groups at 800 yards if you pour enough money into it.
The problem with the G3 and clones aftermarket is that all the really good stuff is insanely expensive and hard to find Kraut Magic.
>>28064108
It's not that expensive unless you're a poorfag
>>28064155
15 thousand dollars on one gun is a lot in my book. To put that into perspective, a real G3A3 pre '86 registered machine gun will only run you about twice that. That being said, I probably don't devote as much money to my gun fund as a lot of you.
How hard is it to make a PSG-1 clone out of a PTR-91? Maybe a 90% clone without that side receiver rail reinforcement thing?
>>28064305
You can buy those and have them installed for you.
>>28064108
>Kraut Magic
Would be a good name for some gun lube.
>>28064445
I'm seeing anywhere from 600-900 dollars to convert it which apparently doesn't even include the parts. I don't think I like them that much.
