I will be getting some work done on my 1911 that will require a refinish. However I'm not sure whether or not to reblue it, or go with parkerizing since I don't shoot it that much.That way, I don't have to constantly oil it, etc (please correct me if im wrong).
Will parkerizing make it look like pic related, and will it interfere with how "smooth" the slide action is?
>>27998211
Parkerized is GOAT
Parkerizing will leave your gun feeling gritty until all those craters get smoothed out.
If you do get it parkerized, hose the disassembled gun down with breakfree, then let it sit for a week or two until the breakfree thickens up.
>>27998472
>smoothed out
So like just work the moving parts repeatedly? e.g. racking the slide, moving the safety, pressing the mag release?
Moly lubes seem to smooth that out in my experience, along with cycling it a couple of hundred times.
Every part on your gun is gong to be bead blasted in order to make the parkerizing work- so even with the parts being 100% clean afterwards- the scratched up surface of the steel needs to be "broken in". The safety plunger needs to break through all the sharp surfaces again. It's ok- but you'll notice it.
Are you gay and want your gun to look like literal shit ass fuck?
Then get it parkerized.
For you aren't, and you don't, then get it blued.
>>27998484
More like rub with grease and bake in oven/leave in sun
>>27998593
Go home Obama, you are drunk
Durablue
>>27998472
>>27998512
>>27998659
So is this something I have to proactively do after getting it back from the gun smith, or will it "go away" over time?
pls respond
>>28001676
Cerakote it.
>>27998211
If it's blued rigjt now, then re-blue it. Parkerizing is more rust resistant, but your gun will look like an RIA 1911 before it gets enough wear to look like a Remington Rand. Meanwhile, bluing will look better at all times. Any roughness in the action will smooth out the first time you shoot the gun.
>>27998211
You're a dumbass, just plastidip it
>>27998211
Send it in to Colt for a Royal Blue treatment. pic related
>>27998328
Seconded.
>>27998211
>COLT
>ROYAL BLUE
>>28003626
LOL did not scroll down far enough to see that you had posted.
OP do what Me and >>28003626 said
>>27998211
I've parkerized several guns myself and they look okay I suppose, but I'm not a fan of the way they feel.
Go with rust bluing.
Getting it parkerized is more practical, getting it blued is prettier.
>>27998211
Just color it with a black sharpie
>>27998211
Just curious, but where did you get a 1911 like that?
I would vote for parkerizing since it offers more protection from the elements. that alone would make it the winning choice for me.
>>28004386
Not mine, another anon posted it up, and I thought it looked real nice. I hope with time a parkerizing job can make it look like that. I'm also planning on retro-ing my 1911.
Parkerized, it's the objectively superior functional finish, and subjectively the cooler looking one as well
>>28004489
>>28004386
That's my M1911 before I reparkerized it. The finished product is here:
>>28004313
>>28004564
That's a damn fine piece of art right there
>>27998211
Honestly OP, in my opinion I'd parkerize it over just bluing it. Parkerizing inherently gives the metal more corrosion resistance by basically creating a buffer against the elements. Bluing does the same thing so to speak by coating the metal in magnese. With the way bluing actually works however you're literally rusting the metal right on the spot, wiping/scraping that rust away to get the blued steel beneath. Bluing is not as corrosion resistant because the metal is actually already "rusted" so to speak. Bluing kinda sorta "rusts" all the metal so it can't be further "rusted."
Bear in mind: I am a little inebriated and explaining it in the exact same laymans terms as my gunsmith/army armorer buddies explained it to me. It's also fucking Thanksgiving for fucks sake (why am I even on here when my family is downstairs still being merry, and also drunk). I'm a tad drunk, as I said, but if you get any kind of information out of my rambling: parkerize your weapons
>>28004564
Any new-production M1911 clones you'd recommend? I love the classic styling but would feel awful abusing a historic piece as a range toy. Budget is up to $2,000
>>27998211
blued is prettier, but more likely to smudge and get beaten
Parkerizing will be more practical and probably last longer. So
>blued if youre looking for a pretty range toy ir heirloom
>parkerized if you want to use it often
>>28005329
If you're after something that is close to the original M1911A1, take a look at the Auto Ordnance guns. The model pictured has a list price of $688 and has a parkerized finish. They offer this with a matte blue finish for $588, too.
Inland Manufacturing makes a very similar model but starts at around $750.
Neither are perfect WWII-era clones but with a couple replacement parts such as a blued barrel in the Auto Ordnance and shorter triggers, they would be decent representations.
>>28004564
Fuarrkk, someone is parting out a ww2 1911, and I'm tempted to just get the slide to slap on my norinco.
>mfw no CMP 1911s in Canada..
>>28006326
Are you aware of any export laws regarding firearms parts? I'm planning on doing what you suggested, but I don't live in the US.
Plastidip it.
On the topic of gun refinishing, does anyone know of any "night sights" that would fit the profile and aesthetic of a "GI" M1911A1?
Stock GI sights are WAY too tiny to put nightsight inserts into.
>>28008935
The parts that companies can't ship out of the US includes barrels, bolts, high capacity magazines, revolver cylinders, frames, receivers, shotgun magazines and shotgun trigger assemblies. I haven't delved deeply into the regulations but I believe an export permit is required for firearm parts.
To keep things 1911-related, here is a closeup of the temper line on my M1911's slide. You can see the 'halo' around the slide stop notch as this area was also hardened.
>>28010871
Wait really? That's pretty funny, I thought only advanced shit like NVG that other countries (China comes to mind) don't know how to make yet were subject to export restrictions
>>28010816
I know, I'm going to have to replace the GI ones (i think the most i can do with them is put white dots). But I find pic related to look "off-balanced" if I want to keep the short grip safety.
>>28003626
>>28004339
Actually it's coral blue number 2
>>28004339
>>28003626
It looks nice, but not a real fan. I can already see the smudges
No reason to start a new thread.
I need halp. Blued, stainless, or parkerized? I've owned a parkerized 1911 and it is nice, but blued looks so god damn sexy. How durable is it really?
>>28013759
For typical private uses you won't notice any difference. Parkerized finishes hold oil on the surface better since they are rougher, just be sure to wipe down a blued finish with oil before you put it away.
Not a 1911, but a shot of my Model P's color case hardened and blued finish.
>>28011016
Then get your slide cut for Bo-Mar style sights.
I'm honestly torn between those myself but I'm also getting a S&A beavertail put on my Mil-Spec and pretty much going away from everything except for the bare frame and slide.
>>28013759
SSSSSTAAAINLESSS 2bh family
>>28004851
Underrated post
>>28004564
>>28006326
>>28010871
How "rough" is rough for parkerizing?
>>28010816
A-a-are you related to Brownells?
>>28010816
That's why you get your slide cut to accept different sights. Get it widened for night sights, go for a Novak/Wilson cut, or go full out and get your slide cut for Bo-Mar sights if you want adjustable sights.
Any competent gunsmith should be able to cut a slide.
>>28015018
Are you referring to surface prep? Typically it needs a light blasting with a very fine media to provide a good surface for the manganese (or zinc) phosphate to build up.
As far as feel, it's not much difference to the touch compared to a matte blue finish. A high polish blued finish will feel slicker, of course.
>>28015860
Got it, I'm gonna go to talk to the gunsmith and see what he has to say. Refinishing will be my last part.
Are you aware of anyplace that sells checkered triggers?
You can hot salt blue over parkerizing
True story
You have to bead blast the parts right before you parkerize them, then boil them in water. Any hand oil will reuin the part, so then you have ot re-bead balst, etc.
My 2 cents? Parkerizing os more "all-weather", but the surface is easily scratched. Polished blue- especially the lower grits like 240 or 400, are pretty practical, and will last longer in normal use.
>>28016280
Stamped GI triggers aren't too hard to find, I see them on eBay and Gunbroker frequently. A milled Colt checkered trigger took me a damned long time to find.
>>28015860
Is that a M1917? What are your thoughts on "refinishing" historic firearms? I recently bought an M1917 dated to 1918. Its in fair condition, and I'm hesitant on refinishing it, or fixing some of the scratches..
>>28016736
It is a Smith & Wesson M1917, mine was also made in 1918. I keep pre-war Magnas on it for shooting as they are much more comfortable than the smooth stocks it came with.
Altering the finish of historical firearms is a polarizing discussion. Unless there are major issues such as excessive wear, pitting or an existing refinish job, I am hesitant to destroy the original finish. Ofttimes a touch up with cold bluing may be a suitable compromise, depending on the circumstances.
>>28016975
Do you find any issues with firing older firearms? Any precautions I should take? Real nice photos too.
>>28004564
>refinishing old guns
