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Reloadin'
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I'm about to get into reloading, going to start off with this Lee 50th anniversary press.

Opinions? Advice?
Recommended dies (cheap but good)?

I'm planning on reloading: .223, .357Sig, .308
When it comes to reloading .223/5.56 or .308/7.62, what's different?

ITT: Reloading general thread
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>>27933800
>When it comes to reloading .223/5.56 or .308/7.62, what's different?
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I bought a similar kit from Lee. Wish I hadn't.

The press is decent.
Powder measure is shit.
Scale is beyond shit.

I would buy a press, powder measure and quality digital scale all separately, as well as all the small, little ancillary stuff you will need.

That kit will get you started. But within a year you will have replaced 75% of it.
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I want to start reloading as well but I don't know where to start. There are guides online but they are pretty intimidating.
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>>27933876
As long as you are not retarded, it is pretty damn easy. It one of those things that seems way harder to do until you do it, and you are like, "That's fucking it?".
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>>27933876

FFS.. is there anyone in thier 20's that loves to suck dick, and wants to learn how to reload? if so, I got a mutual relationship that would benefit us both.
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>>27933845
Thats what im doing.
And calipers, dont forget those.
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Youtube is your friend.
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May as well do 300blk if your doing 556 and 308...
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I seen a guy reloading .45acp with that scale. He could get it to within .2 of where he wanted it, but it wasnt super accurate.

Would recomend a digital scale.
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Why are there so many videos on YouTube in Russian about the lee load all?
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>>27933988
Yep.

All depends how deep into reloading you want to get.

You can spend a shit ton if you want to be some bench rest sperglord. If you want to do basic reloading, about $500 will get you there, minus reloading components and a quality table. Although I started by bolting my press to an old kitchen table and it was kinda wobbly, but worked fine.
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>>27933800
some old man is trading me a very large reloading setup for a $400 rifle. im not even really interested in reloading at the moment. i just dont want to pass up like $1000 of stuff for such a cheap trade.
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I bought the RCBS rockchuker kit a few black fridays ago. 250 with other shit after rebate (RCBS always have the 50 back from 300 going on). A decent kit, I don't use the scale though since I'm too impatient and got an electronic scale instead.

One thing I don't like about the rockchuker is depriming and the primers flying everywhere. You can mod or buy 3d printed chutes that fix this though.

I use lee dies, and they've worked good for me so far. I only load to plink though. I do have RCBS dies for some calibers though.
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I like me lee breech lock kit. The perfect powder measure works great one you get the tension right and lap the cone part, plus it's super cheap. The scale is crap.
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>>27933800
>advice
Don't get the Lee. Lyman or Redding, or a used RCBS, for single stage. Lyman T-Mag for a turret press. Dillon or Hornady for progressive. Lee a shit. A cheap shit, but still a shit.

Hornady dies (either their American or their Custom Grade) are excellent general purpose dies. Redding for competition/matchgrade dies. Hornady American dies are almost as cheap as Lee, but not shit like Lee, and the Custom Grades are better than RCBS greenbox.

You might want to look into small-base dies if either your .223 or .308 rifles are semi auto. They resize a bit tighter (which lowers brass life) to improve reliability in semis.

There is no difference in brass external dimensions between .308 and 7.62x51, or .223rem and 5.56x45. The differences are in the case web (internal volume) and the chamber dimensions (specifically the throat. 7.62x51 also has a very slightly longer headspace (should just barely close on a .308win no-go gauge, about .007" of headspace).

When you go to set your dies, without brass in the press screw the die in til it just barely touches the shell holder/shellplate with the handle of the press all the way down/shellplate in its highest position. This will be fine for all straight-wall calibers, and get you pretty damned close to perfect for bottleneck calibers (many people will do only this, the only downsides are potentially pushing the shoulder too far back, which only lowers brass life and isn't dangerous at all). Once you've done that, resize 3 pieces of brass and measure them with a set of calipers from base of rim to shoulder. Compare that to SAAMI spec or a factory round (I prefer factory round from a respected manufacturer in their premium line, SAAMI spec can be a little loose) and adjust as needed.

For powders, I like Varget and H322 for .223rem but there are literally hundreds of powders that would work well. I only load Varget in .308, it does everything I need it to and haven't even tried other powders.
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>>27934030
>>27934151

I really wanted a Dillon (the 550), but I just don't have the money.. I'm going with a Lee because it's cheap and I'm just starting off.

>>27933831
Apparently internal volume of the .308 is different than that of the 7.62.

>>27933845
Thanks for the advice, can you recommend any scales in particular?

>>27934151
Great writeup, saving for later. My .308 is a bolt and my .223 is semi, so I'll certainly look into the small-base dies. I'm going to get the Lyman reloading handbook as well.
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>>27934091
What scale would you recommend?
I have a digital scale that's precise to .1g, would that suffice?
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>>27934409
>I have a digital scale that's precise to .1g, would that suffice?
You will literally blow yourself up.
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>>27934391
Unless you have a source of free or cheap .223 brass, try regular dies before buying a small-base set. They really do lower the brass life considerably.

I'm assuming you have an AR. Odds are excellent that unless you have a heavy match barrel, it will have a loose enough chamber that regular dies will be fine for it. No mini-14's had tight chambers as well. I don't know on the 5.56 AK variants, I imagine that there's some differences between the different brands and SAAMI vs. CIP specs.

If you can't afford a progressive, the Lyman T-mag turret press or Crusher single-stage are very good as well and significantly cheaper. Seriously, avoid Lee for anything but 9mm/.45acp dies or a universal decapping die.

That's another thing: Several companies make universal decapping dies. If you will EVER be using military-crimped brass with crimped primer pockets, buy one. The Lyman one is better than the Lee one (more durable, better spindle design, and user-replaceable cheap decapping pins), but the Lee one has an unconditional lifetime guarantee against breakage. If you buy the Lee, you WILL bend the decapping pin, but Lee is very good about honoring their guarantee. Their spindle design is just pure shit though. Using one of these you can decap before cleaning your brass, not have to worry about breaking the decapping pin in your good resizing die, and it just generally makes the reloading process for crimped brass less painful.

Lyman also makes a universal champfer/deburring tool that also has a primer pocket uniformer and crimp reamer, it's like ten bucks. Well worth it. Especially since the champfer bit has a VLD taper, and all the bits can be chucked in a cordless drill if you're processing a lot of brass.
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>>27934409
No, that will not suffice.

If it's not accurate to one tenth of one grain (0.1gr), you will literally blow yourself up.
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>>27934409
These men speak truth.>>27934487
>>27934501
There are approximately 15.5 grains in a gram. Having a scale accurate to a tenth of a gram means that you can be off by up to 1.5 grains. That's enough to put you into KB or squib territory, and more than half of the total charge weight of some 9x19 loads.
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>>27934493
It's an HBAR AR, but nothing special.

I've been saving my brass for years, I have tons of once-fired .223 and 5.56 surplus brass.

If I should avoid Lee, what combination should I go with? I don't think I would mind a single stage press system, but I've seen my friend use a turret type. Is it possible to start out under $150 without primers/dies/bullets?

>>27934501
Lol, that's what I figured after seeing the unit conversion. I don't plan on blowing myself up or getting a squib load if I can help it.
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>>27934754
>what should I go with?
If there is any possible way you can afford it, Lyman T-mag. Otherwise Lyman Crusher.

No, even with a crap-tier Lee C-frame single stage there is really no way to get set up for even 1 caliber for under $150.

Lyman Crusher is about $130-140 (even the Lee Classic Cast O-frame is $120).
A sufficient scale is around $40 (MTM mini digital, or Lyman Micro-Touch for $60)
A sufficient powder dropper is either $25 or $70 (Lee Auto-Disk, which is extremely fiddly but once set is decent, or Hornady LnL)
Trustable calipers start at $20.
The cheapest die set I would use is $30.

If I were to start all over, it would be a Lyman T-Mag, Hornady LnL powder dropper, Lyman Microtouch scale, and Hornady Custom Grade dies. OTD that'd be about $360. Swap the Crusher single-stage for the T-Mag turret and save $70.
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So, what would you guys recommend if I wanted to get started reloading 7.5x54?

I'm told it'll just take standard .308 bullets, but, that it's loaded lighter than a standard 7.62/.308 round.
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>>27934989
7.5x54MAS (or French) actually uses a .310" bullet, the same as 7.62x39/x54. These are readily available, though not as common as .308 bullets. You could also safely squeezebore .303brit bullets (.311/.312, there's some variance) with a 1gr reduction in max load.

You could probably even use .308 bullets, but they won't be as accurate and will foul worse due to being slighly undersized. They will obturate (swell) in the bore enough to be safe, but neck tension will become an issue if you're using run-of-the-mill dies.
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The lees 50th with the hand primer is a good starter kit the scale is accurate and the powder thrower is ok until you decide to upgrade I've made thousands of rounds with it no issues. You will need a case trimmer or to buy a gauge and holder for each caliber no biggie.
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>>27935012
Cool, I didn't know this - thanks anon!

Also, can I resize brass to make 7.5mm brass? I'm really not looking forward to paying prvi part prices for brass.
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>>27935220
You can resize 7.5x55 to it, but honestly by the time you buy 7.5x55 brass, resizing dies, and reloading dies you'd have been able to buy a significant supply of Prvi 7.5x54.
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>>27934905
Could you or anyone else comment on why so many people seem enamored with the Lee stuff (even when given the opportunity to get a Lyman for the same price as a Lee)?

See this thread, for example: http://thefiringline.com/forums/showthread.php?t=487301

I hear a lot of really good reviews of Lee products, with people saying they prefer it to their more expensive reloading gear (though everyone seems to think Dillon is best, but expensive).

I'm trying to work out whether it's cheap people justifying their purchase (or shills or whatever) or if there's validity to the claim of Lee being better.

I've got the money for most low-mid range reloading gear - I just don't want to buy something simply because it's more expensive or buy something and wish I'd bought a different brand instead.
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>>27935934
You ever do something as a kid, like go to an amusement park, and it was like the greatest thing ever, and then you go as an adult with your experiences in life and the same amusment park blows ass?

Lee loaders are like that. Its great when you're new and don't know better, but once you use something better it's clear how shitty they are
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May I suggest that you start reloading pistol rounds first /k/omrade
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Got a huge trove of shit as a birthday present from my bro-tier uncle. I've actually done a bit of 9mm reloading on his equipment, so fortunately I have a little experience. He included a Speer Reloading Manual #14 on principle though

Press is a single stage Redding Boss.
>Tungsten Carbide dies
>RCBS M500 scale
>standalone hand primer (Lee Autoprimer XR iirc)
>RCBS Uniflow powder measure

I went out and picked up some CCI small pistol primers and Alliant Unique powder. Waiting on some Nosler JHPs. Gonna be loading 9x19 and maybe some .40 S&W. Really interested in .357 SIG though given that I'd never really consider it otherwise...

Might get a pic of it pretty much set up in the morning here...
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I can reload .22lr right?
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>>27936427
pointless, but sure.
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>>27933800
I bought the Lee Progressive Press. I made a huge mistake. As a first timer I should of stuck with a single stage, because of work, etc I haven't found the extra time required to setup the stages yet.
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>>27934011
>Would recomend a digital scale.

I had one and it sucked.

I bought a used mint Lyman M5. made in USA
came out originally in 1965. It's regrded as the best reloading scale bar none.

I like it.
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>>27934151
Don't get Hornady for progressive. Unless they've fixed a lot over the last few years. Mine (LNL AP) is effectively a single stage because the priming system is terrible.Kept breaking the plastic piece that holds the primer guide in place. Even when it wasn't broken, I'd often get cases that weren't primed because the feed didn't actually pick a primer up.
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>>27937245
I love my pro 1000 for pistol stuff... Lee has really good videos on exactly how to set it up and adjust it property. After that, it's just making sure you put more primers in when the little disk gets down to the chute.
>>27937438
I check every powder throw for my rifle rounds... It's a lot easier to tare out a case, throw powder charge, then check on a little digital scale... $20 pretty well spent... I think hornady is supposed to be coming out with a pretty cheap option soon too...
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What does /k think of these http://www.midwayusa.com/product/246418/lee-classic-loader-45-acp
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>>27937574
They are ok if you load like 7 rounds a year and need to do so out in the field...
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>>27933845
You listed 3 things. It'd be 66.6%, not 75% anon don't try to mislead OP.
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>>27937628
Not him, but the case prep tools are also mediocre and the trimmer is janky... From my breech lock kit I still use the press, powder measure, hand primer, and case lube. Buying those things separately would have been more expensive than just buying the kit and it never hurts to have backup stuff...
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>>27937505
>>27937438 (You)
I check every powder throw for my rifle rounds... It's a lot easier to tare out a case, throw powder charge, then check on a little digital scale... $20 pretty well spent... I think hornady is supposed to be coming out with a pretty cheap option soon too...

The digital scale i had didn't seem to give consistant results. It cost as much as the M5.

I have a lee classic turret press with a Auto Disk Powder measure. I like the interchangeable turrets. I check the throw every ten or so once the throw is confirmed. I have dies for all my calibers, but I've been only 45acp, 45 colt cowboy and 9mm(lol).

Stock image of what it looks like is related.
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You'll have to find out what your press likes and doesn't like.
I bought all of my shit used for good deals so they have uhh... 'personality'.

I.e my Pro1000 wont prime cases, I burnt through 100 or so primers before I gave up and switched to priming everything separate while I watch TV.
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>>27935012
For nuggets, surplus is .311 or .312, so using .303 bullets is standard practice. Unless it's for a Finland nugget, which in most cases is an actual .310. Ideally you should slug your bore and go from there.
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>>27934151
You're a moron. Lee Classic Cast and up are good presses and in no way are shit. They work especially well with the safety prime system. Looks gay - works perfectly every time.

All of their dies that I own have been extremely reliable. The only rifle rounds I crimp are 30-30win and the factory crimp die has never creased a single case. I load 223, 243, 257, 270, 270WSM, 30-30, 308, 30-06, 300WM, and 45-70.

The Perfect Powder measure isn't as exact as a digital scale, but it is damn effective. .2 grains of powder doesn't make a bit of difference unless you are pushing the envelope.

The scale sucks huge balls. If you have to have a scale, buy a digital. The digital scale should be accurate to within .2 GRAINS and easily calibrated. These can be had for well under $50 or so.

Get a digital stainless vernier caliper with replaceable batteries. $10-15 dollars or so.

You will also need a case trimmer and length gauge. I prefer the ones that fit in a drill or a standalone electric one. I reload in volume though. If you are going to be reloading less than 100 at a time, a hand trimmer is fine - preferably one you can hold onto. The ones with a wood ball for a handle work quite well and will help keep the hand cramps down.

Make your own case lube. 2oz of pure liquid lanolin in 16oz of 91% or better IPA. Cheap as shit and works every single time. There is no reason to stick a case unless you are an asshole.

If you want a manual, buy one. Most reloading information online is provided free by the component manufacturers. Manufacturers are all about info accuracy.
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>>27936427
Fuck no.
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>>27937590
I understand it will be slow. I was just wondering if anyones used one before.
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>>27933800
What are the long term negative effects of not tumbling my brass before reloading?
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Looks good for 40$

But I'd still need a digital scale and calipers.

Anyone want to warn me off?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sjRzeZJaHpI
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>>27937924
Unless you are only loading a few rounds at a time - consider yourself warned. They work just fine, but they are extremely slow.
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>>27937878
Dirty ammunition. Shit trapped between the bullet and the case, shit trapped between the primer and the the pocket thing.
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>>27937924
>But I'd still need a digital scale and calipers.
Pair it with a Sartorius Entris64-1S and you'll be good to go anon; pic related, my Entris64.
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>>27937940
I hope to reload 20-60 .303 british rounds maybe 4 times a year.

I don't shoot often.
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>>27937956
>Sartorius Entris64-1S
I'm buying a 40$ reloading kit. Why would I buy a 1000$ balance?
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>>27937958
For the price you'd pay, at least get the hand press. It's worth the extra $30 or whatever you're paying.
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>>27937977
>Why would I buy a 1000$ balance?
So you could also buy a $125 calibration weight as an accessory to that balance? What, you dont want to be able to weigh charges so they're less than 1 kernel of powders weight apart from each other?

With that being said if I remember correctly the entire point of those shitty Lee kits is to not need a scale. Because that sounds like a good idea right?
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>>27938008
It's called a known quantity.

If I am reloading the same calibre of round the same way each time, as long as my scoop is the correct size, I don't need to weigh anything.

It would only catch if somethign went horribly wrong, like I put in a double load or something retarded liek that.
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>>27937982
Yeah, the hand press would be 80$, but wouldn't come with the extra shit that the 40$ kick comes with, making the hand press even more expensive than just "30 more dollars"
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>>27937878
Gross looking brass that may be dirty enough to stick in the chamber...
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>>27938039
>It's called a known quantity.
Its called volumetric measurement.

>If I am reloading the same calibre of round the same way each time, as long as my scoop is the correct size, I don't need to weigh anything.
That depends on the powder, and even then is true. For ball powder perhaps, but with stick or flake you wont. Go try that with a powder like IMR 700X which i've seen deviate by almost 2gr for 45ACP loads in my Forster measure, just be sure to record it when you go to fire those rounds.
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>>27938103
>and even then is true.
*isnt


Also this ignores things like the Secondary Explosion Effect.
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>>27937956
>>27938008
> not buying a mettler toledo with an on site annual service and calibration plan
Sheeeet...
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>>27938124
>> not buying a mettler toledo with an on site annual service and calibration plan
I wish I had one. I have to send my Entris back because the serial port on it is dead. At least I found that out before the warranty expired.
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>>27938048
Just get the small handloader and see how you like it. For no more than you are loading, it'll actually be enjoyable.
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>>27938048
Oh yeah, if you're going to order a loader then get it from fsreloading com. I think they were under $30 each last time I checked.
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Start with a Lee Turret Press instead. You can load much faster and set up the dies on their own individual turrets for easy re-use. The priming system is really easy to use too. Only a few months into reloading the very first time and I am loading 100 rounds an hour in .45, 9mm, and 38 special.
The "start with a single stage press" logic is as much a meme as the "start shooting with a .22"
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>>27938360
>The "start with a single stage press" logic is as much a meme as the "start shooting with a .22"
wut? do you even co-ax?
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>>27937940
Ima the dude wid the old lyman scale and a lee turret.

I stared with a hand press to load 45 colt cowboy loads. Wheel gun so didnt got thru a shit pile of rounds.

It was slow. but I got started. I still use it to de-prime cases. and like other anon sez, you can take it with ya and do it in the field if you had too.

The price was right.
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>>27937736
7.5x54

Not 7.62X54R
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for what it's worth, I have a Lee hand press and I reload everything from 50AE to 458 Lott with no problem. YMMV
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