Bow and arrow
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You are currently reading a thread in /k/ - Weapons
You are currently reading a thread in /k/ - Weapons
Hey everybody,
I am going to go hunting with some friends of mine this summer, which I have never actually done before. I would like to try and hunt with bow and arrows, but i dont have a lot of experience with handbows, so im wondering what kind of bow i should get.
Could anyone share their experiences with me and help me find a bow to begin with?
inb4 that one pasta posting troll on lars whatshisface.
If you're going recurve, you might need to start practicing now, because recurve takes practice and good form. Not to mention I think states have their own requirements on how much poundage you need to hunt with.
Get a compound bow, it's easier to hunt with, especially for someone not as familiar with bows. It's also a tad bit more forgiving if your form isn't solid. Not to mention you have let-off that lets you hold at full draw with 70-80% of the weight off (vs. recurve where you hold and might even have stacking of the poundage at full draw)
>>30081104
Thanks for your reply,
I have shot with recurve bows sometimes in the past, and I always thought that was kinda fun.
If i would purchase a beginner compound bow, what are the minimum requirements i should look for, like the length and the draw strength?
>>30081130
google how to find length of draw for beginners. It's usually from palm of one arm extended perpendicular to body to your face. But you should look it up for clarity.
In terms of draw weight, your run-of-the mill compounds can be adjusted, (but you suually need a tool to check what weight it's at everytime you change it, I see a lot of 40-60# bows.
You also should read up on state hunting requirements for bow poundage on whatever game you're hunting. I mean, I'm sure there are people who don't care, but if you try and take a animal with too weak a bow, you either piss it off or unnecessarily hurt it.
But like guns, it never hurts to pop into an archery range, set up a quick intro class and they'll usually guide you through all the safety and what bows suit you.
If you are not able to or won't, you can just wing it with a compound, if you really have to, you can always pull the bow in any fashion (just don't twist it or you risk the strings popping off the cams OR pull in a fashion where you hurt yourself) until you hit full draw, at that stage, the cams do their magic. But the best advise is to either take a class or get a bowhunting buddy to teach you.
Or look up some archery/bow handling fundamentals on youtube and read a little bit into it.
>>30081175
also, to add to this:
If you have an archery range nearby, don't be afraid to go to it and look around, most archers are good people who are more than thrilled to introduce people into this niche.
And don't let the Oly shooters intimidate you, their bows are made to target shoot in a competitive environment, not to hunt, so all the shiny bits and rods are non-issues if you're not going that route.
>>30081087
>Handbows
...um, okay. Take some time to practice shooting. You can retrieve arrows so it's not really a waste of money.
Arrows travel slower than bullets, obviously, so you'll have more drop and less range than a rifle. Think shotgun ranges.
Get the arrow on the string first and only draw when you're ready to shoot. Holding that string back is tiring.
There's a thing called the archer's paradox where the arrow won't travel exactly straight. You'll need to experiment to find it but to shoot directly at the target you need to aim slightly away from it.
>>30081222
"Handbows" as opposed to crossbows is probably what he meant. I never heard that term before either though. .
>>30081087
If you started with a recurve now, you won't be ready to hunt in time, so that means compound.
In terms of draw weight, as an adult male you'll probably be able to handle 50# with 75% let off or more. Most bows can be adjusted 10# down from peak weight (i.e. a 60# bow can be turned down to 50#), so if you tried 50# and felt pretty good it'd be a good idea to buy the bow in 60# to give you a little room to grow.
It's worth saying that bows will feel different to draw, e.g. a very fast 60# bow might be harder to draw than one with a longer ATA/more brace height/gentler cams/etc at 60#.
Also worth covering is IBO speed. This is how fast any given model of compound bow shoots a 350 grain arrow while set at 70# with a 30" draw length and no weight on the string. You won't ever get that speed out of your bow, but it serves as a measure of how fast a bow is. 300-315 fps is a little slow but ok, 320-335 or so is pretty decent and 340 and up is fast. Anything slower than 300 is old technology and also quite slow. Any bow shooting 300+ fps IBO will be ok for most things really - it's mostly just a warning not to buy a cheap asian bow that does 240fps.
Draw length correlates with height pretty well. If you can, go into an archery pro shop and get measured up though. That's the best way.
>>30081130
Generally speaking, if you're hunting you want a compound. And in that case you pretty much have to go to a good shop to get one set up for you when you buy it.
You can hunt with a recurve, but it's going to be more difficult because you can't really just sit in a tree stand, you need to learn to stalk and how to minimizes noise and motion as you take aim from closer to the target.
>>30081417
>Draw length correlates with height pretty well.
Arm span divided by 2.5 is the correct calculation, though the best way is always to get measured with a draw length tool.
>>30081506
It's one of the methods - you do need a chart though rather than just being able to do the math on your armspan. (E.g. 5'10" is 28", 6' is 29" that kind of progression)
>>30081599
Arm span does normally, but not always correlate to height, which is why it's better to just use the armspan calculation.
That said, a longbow's got simple requirements: longer than you are tall.
>>30081087
>bowfags
>"just don't miss ;VV)
Oooh, a bow thread.
Hey, what do you venerable experts think of this for a first bow?
http://www.instructables.com/id/Red-Oak-Pyramid-Bow/?ALLSTEPS
Bumping for more beginner recurve advice. Did some research a year but never made a purchase. The Sammy Sage still considered the best buy? Where's the best place to buy online and what else should I buy if getting it all at once?
>>30082431
Looks like a decent selfbow instruction, but you'd be better off laminating a few different woods together for better effect. The English used Yew selfbows because it naturally had dual-density layers that reproduced the effects of lamination.
>>30084514
Samick sages are usually the default, though Martin's Saber, Jaguar, and Panther are a good option because they use interchangeable risers and limbs.
>>30084514
and the rule of thumb, if you ever decide to go deep into recurve shooting and maybe into target shooting is to get a good riser, this will be your bedrock. And cheap but non-shit limbs, you'll grow as you practice and buying $$$ limbs isn't really financially efficient in the long run.
Although it's not unheard of to splurg on limbs as well, then when you outgrow them, you sell them.
>>30081219
What is the rod in the front for?
>>30086475
Silencer
>>30086475
Supposed to help balance the thing. From my understanding it's like a counter-weight so the bow doesn't jump up when you release, but I may be wrong.
>>30086475
Stabilizer.
>>30086549
They also help with vibration reduction.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5M4-hB9t3kY
I've only used light weight recurves.
From what I handled of a compound bow if you can get over how ugly it is the first stage of pulling it back is extremely easy yanking some slack out of it probably depends on the bow how far back that is, then it has a little bit more of a resistance to get it at full draw.
Compounds are mechanically more complex but probably better for hunting most people tend to favor them.
Recurves look nicer but if you're not getting something super modern it's going to be a lot of composites glued together and a compound is probably a lot more structurally sound since the weight goes to the pullies so it could be easier to maintain or fix a compound if something goes wrong with it.
>>30086959
>so it could be easier to maintain or fix a compound if something goes wrong with it.
Not really. You need a bow press to do any mechanism work, and that pretty much means taking it to the shop every time. With TD recurves it's easy to replace a string that's going out or a limb that's gone wonky.
>>30086475
They help stabilize it and they stop the bow from rotating backwards on release.
>>30081104
But compounds are for faggots.
>>30081087
What in the hell are you hunting in the summer?
Wild pigs?
>>30086549
>>30087184
Note, stabilizers are only useful if you have a finger sling, so Oly archery.
Since this is a bow thread, what are some good rests to use on my take-down recurve? I currently use a Whisker Biscuit, but it obstructs my sight line, and I'm always hearing horror stories about almost any drop rest I've looked at. Also for some reason just using the shelf on my riser cause serious wobble in the arrows no matter how I adjust the knock point.
>>30087369
Less ridiculous, stubby ones are useful as vibration dampeners.
>>30081087
RYU GA WAGA TEKI WO KURAU!
>>30087460
Get a three pronged whisker biscuit
>>30087460
>>30088148
Don't listen to this fuck. ^
Whisker biscuits, drop aways, etc., are for mech releases. That is, on a compound. NAP Centerrest Flipper is a fantastic standard rest for cheap. And if you break the head you can buy new ones and replace without losing zero.
Otherwise you're moving up into Magnetic rest & pressure button combo territory.
Fucking airshit belongs on /toy/
>>30088433
This isn't an airshit thread so what's your point, other than to expend a nonsequiter?
>>30087460
Use a Hoyt( or other brand) stick on rest. Cheap, last for a while and their easy to replace.
>>30088403
If like to see what that does to an arrow after release
>>30087033
Guess I didn't think about it that way, you're probably right. Recurves I use to handle didn't have parts besides the string that swap out that easily. I probably wouldn't try to put a compound string on myself.
