I don't know about that, but I can teach you how to use google if you want

>>2321972
Just wanted human recommendations, preferably from beginners to oil

>>2321968
Buy Winton oils, and whatever kind of student/median priced brushes they have available. Really brushes aren't too important as long as you're not buying the bargain bin shit. If you're just starting out then you probably won't provide the adequate care that alot of the more expensive brushes need anyway, and will just end up needing to replacing them. Better to get the cheaper ones so you won't feel so bad when they become useless in a couple months. At least that's how I've always painted, skimp on brushes, never on pigments.

>>2321968

my teacher Jian Wu had us use water-mixable oil paints from Winsor & Newton and the cheapest bristle brushes you can find

>>2322023
Why do you have to mention the name of your teacher?

>>2321968

For student grade paint, winton is best.

For brush I would recommend Robert Simmons sapphire

>>2322029

To lend credibility to an otherwise anonymous post? Anyone who takes anonymous advice here at face value is fucking DOOMED. I've seen it happen firsthand.

>>2322041
You could have name dropped Titian as your teacher and you still would have lost all credibility for suggesting the use of shitty ass water soluble oils.

>>2322075

Did you read the OP?

> good (not too expensive)
> preferably from beginners to oil

So let's recap here - W&N water-mixable oils were recommended to me, a beginner painter, by an award-winning painter. I then shared that information with the OP because he asked for it. Then you had to show up and shit on a perfectly acceptable solution for a beginner with no reasons supplied at all. If he was already good at painting, he wouldn't be asking this question to begin with, so why do you want him to spend $$$ when he's going to suck for months, possibly years?

When he starts doing good work he will realize that he needs better oils/brushes.

>>2322087
What's good about water-mixable oils? How do they compare with traditional oil in terms of handling, pigment load, lightfastness and permanence?

>>2322095

They are cheap to learn with and you can paint in small, enclosed areas because you don't need to use turpentine or other toxic solvents. Those are basically the only redeeming qualities.

You are right that they are worse overall that traditional oil paints and I don't think anyone on the planet will disagree with you there, but we're talking about for a beginner. He doesn't even need to buy the full spectrum, he could probably do fine with monochromatic and then 4 color paintings for several months at least. Then he can try expensive oil paints once he is ready, rather than buying a bunch of expensive stuff right off the bat and realizing he doesn't even like painting.

Anyway, I've said all I have to say at this point so take it or leave it I'm done here.

>>2322033
>For brush I would recommend Robert Simmons sapphire
Counter-recommend. These brushes fall apart quite easily and the bristles don't stay in shape. The lamination on the handle flakes the earliest out of most brushes I've tried.

Monarchs by Winsor Newton are good. Signets by Robert Simmons if you take care of them. If you find a large cheap Titanium by Robert Simmons, it's good for roughly covering large passages. I don't remember the exact name, but the Winsor Newton oil bristle brush is also good.

Make sure not to get paint into the ferule.