which one is better for 3D printers?
>>53868856
delta is generally faster per dollar but harder to calibrate
>>53868856
that one
>>53868870
would you buy a SLA over a delta even if it could achieve similar results? i'm worried about spending money on resin versus filaments.
>>53868891
SLA is fine if you are doing regular prints and finishing/painting everything
>>53868927
i doubt i will. i'm only starting and i'm trying to see if a delta that can do 20 or 50 microns can give me a solid consistency. the results of the atom 2.0 are pretty solid, but that's at 50 microns and the Rostock Max can do 20 for layer thicnkess. i'm not too certain how that pans out for resolution overall since that's not the x/y detail. it's hard to decide and it's a 700 dollar difference. i was thinking i could try going a full DIY process but that might be risky, although i could at least choose a feeder that can take higher temps for stronger abrasive filaments. i'm weighing my options for the kind of projects i could take, whether i would be able to prototype my prints for structural shit like a bike pedal, or for something visual like a nice sculpture.
>>53869059
you wont generally want less than 50 micron layers anyway unless you are doing something very small or are willing to wait 20 hours
either delta printer is pretty easy to adapt to whatever filaments/temps you like
fwiw I built a rostock max v2 last year, pretty easy to assemble and not terrible to get printing decent
>>53869184
how would you compare the rostock to the atom if you could? is the titanium head on the atom something that would last longer with abrasive filaments? im also not sure if i could implement the Trinamic TMC2100 driver IC for silent steppers for the atom.
>>53869230
while the atom certainly has some nice build quality and probably puts out some damn good prints
you can get 95% there for less with the rostock (albeit with some added fiddling)
as for the head, I'm not sure what you intend on printing that is so abrasive but a brand new brass nozzle shouldn't be more than 10$
the real drawback to the rostock is the wood body
there is just enough wobble and looseness to necessitate recalibrating and just checking everything over every 5-10 prints
if you can stand that then save your money
>>53868856
FDM is obsolete so the question doesn't matter
>>53868856
CoreXY
>>53869422
as long as resin is $100/liter it really isn't.
oh shit if this SLA was really built for that cheap this is pretty damn nice
https://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_detailpage&v=VyKztZ0-ITU
Cartesian. Much easier to calibrate and service, and almost always gives a higher print resolution. The only thing delta has going for it is really fast prints.
Which one is easy to print weapon parts?
>>53869588
cartesian would probably be easiest.
>>53869484
Parts:
Arduino Uno $5 (Ebay) - Running HTL's Code. Super simple code. I made some slight modifications to it.
A4988 Stepper Driver $2(Ebay) - Soldered directly to the pins and shrunk tubed the whole thing. Added connectors so I can remove it easily. Running at 1/16 Micro Stepping
Glass Vat $2 (Dollerama) - Nice thick glass and its square. Perfect size for what I wanted to acomplish
DVD Drive Laser Rail $1 (Ebay) - Got 10 Broken DVD drives for $10 on ebay. Took it apart for just the rail.
12AWG wire and Perf Board which I had used for build plate.
if i could find a micro UV projector, is this worth the endeavor?
>>53870118
that looks pretty rad but projectors are expensive. I dunno where'd you get one free / cheap enough
>>53870824
i was thinking ebay but it's more for size than cost honestly. still you could potentially make this thing cost under 500 bucks at the least.
