What should I read to build a computer? I want to build one this summer, having an idea what games I want to play, but I have no idea what parts should I buy for that. I don't want to overshoot so I don't pay too much, but I also don't want to end up with a shitty machine that can't run the stuff I want
google and youtube videos. Also fuck off
/g/ is not tech support; in the interest of providing information in a friendly fashion I will try to give you my thought.
I generally would generally recommend that you spend somewhere between $800-$1200 on a computer. Per the sticky, see http://www.logicalincrements.com/ per parts recommendations. I would generally go with an i5, graphics card is your choice but I prefer AMD. I would get an aftermarket cooler. I would prefer ASUS or Gigabyte mobos to other brands. I would go for at least 8GB of RAM. I would not go smaller than a 250GB SSD and would go for a 480GB if you can. DO NOT SKIMP ON THE POWER SUPPLY OR CASE. You shouldn't need to spend more than $100 on a case but a good case is worth its weight in gold. Make sure the power supply you get is modular; it makes cable management much easier. I like arctic silver thermal paste. Bare hard drives and SSDS do not come with SATA data cables get some.
I prefer Amazon to Newegg. Micro Center and Fry's are pretty based if retail stores are near you.
http://www.logicalincrements.com/newuserguide
You can also use Pcpartpicket to look for parts at a discount, just bear in mind rebates can save money but you actually need to do them.
Also see
http://www.logicalincrements.com/?goTo=importantinfo#importantinfo
http://www.logicalincrements.com/articles/streaming
skyshit k i5 with compatible mobo and 212 evo, 8gb or more of fast ddr4, most recent series gpu depending on how much you want to spend, at least 128 ssd, 2 tb hd, cheapest psu with good reviews, any case, 1 case fan
>>55225134
in closing, some thoughts having built several computers
>most nice cases come with decent fans in the case and you should have enough connectors on your power supply for them already. if you want to add more to blank spaces you can do it later
>when buying a graphics card, look up what the best "cooler" is for it; for the AMD 390 I got recently for a friend, SAPPHIRE had a much better and quieter cooler to many competitors. if the cooler is bad it can gimp the performance of your GPU
>the stock cooler for CPUs from intel and AMD are crappy, aftermarket is worthwhile for cool temps + overclock (if desired)
>CPUs are zero insertion force, the CPU will drop into the socket (after you lift the metal plate with the lever) . IT DOES NOT NEED TO BE PUSHED DOWN
>use an expired credit card/debit card/prepaid card/plastic card of similar size and thickness to spread thermal paste. if you buy aftermarket paste (e.g. arctic silver) and have pre-applied thermal paste on a cooler, use a cotton swab/puff and isopropyl alcohol to remove it. let it dry for a few minutes before applying new thermal paste
>generally thermal paste should be applied to the heatspreader in the size of about a grain of rice. you aren't trying to douse the processor with a thick layer, you are trying to fill tiny imperfections between the metal surfaces of the heatsink and heatspreader on the processor
>make sure all connections are tight
>most things fit only one way, just be patient and do not force things. many connectors (SATA, RAM, PCIe graphics cards, power connectors) will click into place once properly done.
>those little hexagonal metal things in your computer case are called standoffs, and they're usually already in the right places for a full sized ATX motherboard. if the holes in the motherboard don't line up with the standoffs, or the standoffs are not pre-put in the case, screw them in the case to match the holes. the screws that secure the motherboard go in the standoffs.
>>55225226
>the thing that goes around the different ports on the back of the motherboard is important, many cases come with a dummy preinstalled. push it inside from outside of the case and remove. Opposite to place the one that goes with your mobo in
>ASUS and some newer gigabyte mobos come with a thing for your front panel connectors (power switch, reset switch, power light, hard drive activity light) so you can plug it into that and plug that into the mobo, instead of plugging all these tiny pain in the ass plugs directly to the mobo. It's usually labeled on the mobo, but the connector and the manual will be labeled too
>most graphics cards use separate power plugs from the motherboard, and have lights if properly powered
>have the power supply set to off until everything is put in and installed
>once you boot, you can set your BIOS to UEFI/Windows 8 [or 10] compatibility mode if desired - has some benefits for boot speed and such over traditional BIOS boot
>if building a computer with a newer skylake processor, you cannot install windows 7 by USB
>windows 7 is generally easier to pirate successfully than windows 8/10 with daz loader - and you can upgrade to windows 10 and get a legitimate activation
>windows 8 and 10 can be pirated as well, but KMS activation may fall off later
>always use an unmodified file with MSDN iso (hashtab utility + googling the hash) and a good activator
>if making a USB to install windows, Rufus is a handy piece of freeware for this
>>55225226
>use an expired credit card/debit card/prepaid card/plastic card of similar size and thickness to spread thermal paste.
>use isopropyl alcohol to remove it
You are either gullible or have severe meme autism
Okok, thanks famalam
