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Sewing Machines
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Looking for a machine for home clothing construction. Doesn't need fancy stitches. Should be able to handle reasonably thick materials, for making pants.

Pic related, considering the Janome 2212. Would prefer to spend less than 1000.
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>>990331
Anything old from thrift stores, craiglist, second hand shops, yard sales, etc.
Do some test stitches and check if everything works.
Don't spend more than 50-100$.
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>>990450
I forgot, I use the Janome 2212 in a local sewing workshop from time to time (branded as elna something - same model). It's an alright sewing machine, bog standard beginner model.

It works for what it is, but don't expect to have a good time sewing over 3-4 layers of denim (for example when making pants).
I have an old Ideal/Brilliant 137 (again, identical model marketed as two brands) at home which works a LOT better.
Here's a video so you know what I mean when I say "old":
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qExQcGwb34M
If I compare the modern (i.e. like the Janome) entry-level machines to the older entry-level machines (i.e. like mine, or an old mechanical singer or pfaff with external motor), the older machines are much much better at handling difficult fabric and more reliable in general.
That is, if they're both maintained properly.

On the other hand, you'll have a easier time finding special feet, and other accessories for the newer machines.


In my experience, it's better to get an old one.
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It doesn't matter what machine you use within reason.

My grandmother can pretty much alter or make anything with any decent machine.

Seaming and sewing is a skill no doubt. Master that and you can make shit by hand.
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>>990331

I'd suggest looking up "singer class 15 clone" and training yourself to recognize them at garage sales, thrift stores and the like. They're cheap, durable and will sew through the layers you want.

Most older machines are designed to work well, but it's a bit counter intuitive as most machines made after about 1970 tend to be shit. Pre 1970 are usually good, but there are exceptions.
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>>990544
Thanks, I'll definitely look into these machines, they look great. My mother in law has a singer featherweight from the 30's that's a workhorse. It's just intimidating to find a good used machine.
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>>990544
This. Though I'd say any machine from 1960 on is already going downhill in terms of reliability.
Pic is my daily driver-- 1932 Singer 15-91 (I gave 'er a glamour shoot :-)
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>>990641
Featherweights are relatively expensive because they've become the go-to machines for social quilters.
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>>990748
OP again. Looks like most Singer 15's go for about 200-250. Is that about what to expect for vintage singers?
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>>990751
It should only be $250 if it's a cosmetically perfect museum piece. Singer 15s were made by the millions. There are three stashed away in every barn here in New England.
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Port your local Craig's List. I will see whats good in your area.

Heres a rundown of Singer's top of the line models.

The Singer 201 is considered by many to be the best strait stitch sewing machine ever made. It uses a low shank. They are cheap, durable and powerful but heavy as fuck. They were the successor to the Model 15.

The Singer 301 is considered by some to be the best portable strait stitch sewing machine ever made. It was the first Slant Shank sewing machine IIRC. That was a Singer only thing that improved visibility around the needle.

The Singer Featherweight is considered by many to be the best portable sewing machine ever made. It uses a low shank. It was smaller and less capable than the 301 but it was lighter and even easier to transport. The 301 required a small suitcase while the Featherweight could fit into a smaller rectangular case.

The Singer 401 is considered by many to be the best 'zig-zag' sewing machine ever made. It was a slant shank. It could also patterns by changing the cam that went into the top of the machine, in addition to have several cams built in. The 403 is the the same as the 401 but is has no built in pattern cams. It can still use cams though. The 404 only does strait stitches and basic zig-zag, no cams at all.

The Singer 500 and 503 were the same as the above but with a few small improvements and a redesigned shell. They are often called Rocketeers because of the design of that shell. There was no 504.

The Singer 600 Auto Reel had the same guts as the 400 and 500 series. The shell was again redesigned. Its big selling point was the ability to wind the bobbin inside the machine without having to stop what you were doing and take everything apart.

The Singer 600E was the first 'Touch & Sew' model. It looks like a 600 Auto Reel and it mostly is. This was the point Singer started cutting corners to save money. The entire T&S line ranged from almost as good as the Auto Reel to very mediocre. Its best to avoid them.
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I sprung for a janome hd3000 when it was on sale for $300ish, because I found a lot of <$100 machines got gummed up or wouldn't sew straight after a few months of fair use.

If you can get it for the same price I did I'd recommend it, or else wait if you can only find it listed higher.

This video is what fucking sold me on it though-
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Iq-yA4FjDf0

Fucking sewed through shit tons of denim without a hiccup motherfucking without having to touch the tension settings at all. I tested mine to do 8 layers of 16oz denim with the triple jean stitch without a problem until the needle melted.

I've had mine for about 6 months and have altered a ton of stuff, sewed webbing and 1000d cordura for my /k/ shit, made a denim jacket that actually fits my weird torso properly, and hemmed a few light dresses for my girlfriend. ALL without changing even one setting since unboxing it. I've only ever changed the needle and the stitch. That's it.


tl;dr Shit's fucking cash if you got the cash
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>>990761
I'm in Phoenix. There are a lot of old people and bored housewives here, seems like most local prices reflect the high demand.
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>>990769
The HD3000 is probably what I'll get if I can't find a good vintage machine for a decent price.
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>>990777
https://phoenix.craigslist.org/evl/atq/5552064969.html

Singer 401a with cabinet and accessories, $65. Thats a fucking steal if its in working condition. Listing is 16 days old though. Might have sold and someone didn't take the listing down.

There are a lot of sewing machines for sale down there but man are some of the prices ridiculous. Everyone thinks Grandma's old sewing machine is worth $300 because its old. Jesus. Bunch of greedy yuppy fuckwits that don't know how to use google.
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>>990777
https://phoenix.craigslist.org/nph/app/5509131345.html

A 600 Auto Reel for $75. This is a decent backup machines if the 401 has sold already. No table and only basic attachments but its a fair deal.
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>>990777
https://phoenix.craigslist.org/evl/art/5573922174.html

Another 401a. $120, which is still a good deal. No table but plenty of accessories. Updated today so it should still be available.
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>>990777
https://phoenix.craigslist.org/evl/hsh/5539328815.html

Singer 301a. I'm mixed about this one. It has zero accessories or even a manual from what I can see and they want $150. Thats a lot for just a bare machine. I wouldn't offer more than $100 for it. $150 is eBay prices and let them know that. There are serveral machines selling for that price on eBay right now. Again with the fucking greedy yuppys. Hangle them down or walk away. ANother good one will turn up soon.
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>>990780
Thanks so much for the help! I've messaged a few people. It's past polite calling hours. I've a better idea now though of what to look for and what ranges to look in.
My wife sews a ton and I'm really eager to learn and sew for myself.
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>>990794
It's a lot of fun, but for projects to turn out good, you really need a lot of patience and diligence from the very first step to the very last.

Never take shortcuts, especially not as a beginner.
>start with easy projects and slowly work your way up
>learn to use your sewing machine: read the manual, test out a few things and always make sure everything is set correctly before you start
>don't force the needle over too much fabric, don't push or pull the fabric, let the machine do the work
>Measure everything twice, plan carefully
>do every step with diligence, and better pin too much than too little. Handstitch difficult parts before going over the seam with the machine
>iron seams after each sewing step

Usually, the actual machine sewing is the very last, very short finishing part that comes after a lot of preparation, fitting, pinning, controlling everything, etc. It's not the "main part" of the sewing step. Keeping that in mind helps you to understand the care you need to put in before to get the most out of your sewing machine.
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