What is the best tooth size for hardwood?
Some say the large or x large teeth work fine in hardwood, while others say you need smaller and finer teeth. I want this saw so I can fell small trees composed of some of the more exotic hardwoods that can be found in my area.
Why not petrol axe?
>>973190
the amount of teeth has nothing at all to do with the hardness of the wood. similarly, the term hardwood has nothing to do with the hardness of the wood.
hardwood is a colloquial term for angiosperms.
the amount of teeth determines the speed and inversely the roughness of the cut.
>>973190
You want a saw that had spearfast or lightening teeth for felling, or any cross cut with a low tpi or tooth per inch if you can't find that.
>>973201
also fun guy here. edible saprophillic fungi like shiitake, oyster and hen of the woods mushrooms grow on dead angiosperms. so it's important to understand the distinction from the perspective of selecting substrates. pine wont yield shit.
>>973201
Of course hardness has to do with the tpi of a saw. That's why hacksaws and metal cutting bandsaws have gorillions of teeth and wood saws have low tpi.
>>973229
This has as much to do with number of teeth in contact with the material being cut as with the material itself, as well as just the type of cut (rip vs crosscut, fine finished cut vs rough cut). Not saying you're WRONG, just not completely correct.
>>973207
I bet you're fun at parties
>>973190
>so I can fell small trees
Pic related would be ideal or older equivalent farm boss saw. 18" bar is about the max on that saw so you can use a small bar if you need it.
>>973325
That's an MS270, btw.
>>973229
yes, but hardwood is talking about the grain pattern, not the density. what kind of trees are in your area? mostly oak and poplar around me, not to bad, but a couple of black ash, which is a bitch.
the difference for hardness isn't actually teeth per inch, it's how aggressive the hook is, the gullet spacing, and possibly the agressiveness of the set.
you probably want aggressively set teeth for cutting into green wood to help cut down on the saw getting bogged down. anything up to about 12 inches I'm generally happy cutting with a standard 21" bow saw, because saws are hard as shit to sharpen (mostly because i'm too lazy to track down an old saw set and setup a jig to let machines do a lot of the work) so a replaceable blade saves a ton of money.
if you build an old school bow saw for that blade you could possibly get up to an 18" diameter or so? but it'd be a huge pain.
the old school rule of thumb is that you can comfortably cut a tree/branch that is up to half the length of your saw blade, although 2/3rds seems more accurate to me. make sure you get a crosscut pattern (although it'd be hard to find a rip cut pattern for that kind of saw)
Get an axe or a hatchet too, a wedge cut on the other side really helps to keep the tree from pinching the blade. and follow the felling safety stuff, even a small 6" diameter sapling can be 300 lbs, and it ladderbacking just wrong and popping into your chest, i could easily see that breaking a few ribs and giving you a flail chest to drown on.
