Is there some sort of jig or something that lets me sharpen these style drill bits with accuracy?
PS I sharpen ordinary bits by hand with a bench grinder but that's pretty easy. These require more finesse but the only jig I know of that can sharpen Brad points is some $$$$ Darex sharpener that no hobbyist would buy.
Buy an auger bit file and do it by hand.
I clamp mine in a wood vise
If you are too lazy to by the correct file, then at least get one with safe edges.
Will only take a few strokes of the file to make it sharp.
>>963856
Honestly... just buy new bits though
Brad points are really difficult. Even our sharpening company fails on them.
Perhaps a chain saw file? Or a Dremel, it's not an easy geometry.
In the future try to avoid using them unless you know for certain you won't hit anything metal.
Is sharpening a drill/bit is a big deal for you.
Then I suggest you just buy new ones.
Or try knitting.
![514Qg2Qp1oL._SX355_[1].jpg](https://i.imgur.com/uEUtEtt.jpg "514Qg2Qp1oL._SX355_[1].jpg")
>>966093
Its a slow board. Don't bump.
I've heard good things about this. I personally just buy new bits when they wear out. I'm usually only drilling wood so they last a long time.
>>966388
You can't sharpen the kind of bit he is asking about in that thing.
>>963856
Grind the end flat and then sharpen it into a normal drill bit.
>>964010
>>964582
buying is not DIY. Besides, learn to sharpen drillbits is really usefull, more if you work in machining when you have to use special drillbits
>>966632
This.
It's the easiest way.
But you can build a drillbit sharpener that doesn't suck like the DrillDoctor.
Like this one:
http://www.gadgetbuilder.com/DrillSharp.html
They are not that difficult. Think of them as a miniature forstner bit. There are three facets. The brad, the center portion, needs to be perfectly centered. Grind away the chisel edge so that the chisel edge is fresh. Chuck it and check for runout in the Brad just like you would in an ordinary bit. This is the most important part.
Make sure the meat behind it is ground lower than the primary bevel so the edge engages the workpiece.
The spurs can be touched up so its sharp. The geometry isn't too critical,just as long as it engages the wood before the primary bevel. As long as the brad is centered, the hole will be the correct size. All this can be done with the corner of a grinding wheel or a dremel. I don't bother with the brad point bits smaller than 3/16" or so though. When they get dull they get ground to ordinary bits.
i know this is /diy/ and all, but the money you'll end up spending on equipment needed to sharpen this bit is more than simply buying a pack of new ones.
they aren't that expensive.
>>967578
Do you have a grinder? Or a dremel? And steady hands? Then you can sharpen them. jesus
