I've a 1T arbor press I use for light stamping operations in my shop. Need to get a larger work bed as my model only has 4" depth. A 3T has 6" depth which meets needs.
As I look at these they just get taller and heavier. Are 3T versions easier to use in general than a 1T? Less force required? As is, I've replaced my 1T handle with a 24" rod to increase my leverage...
I guess what I'm trying to figure out is if these things are even capable of advertised pressure. 1T through 3T use 20:1 ratio for gearing. Implies 3T would have 3x the lever length of a 1T... Which is definitely not the case.
we have 2 at work, a big one and a small one (looks like one in pic)
i fucking hate the small one, idk the tonnage rating, but probably 1t and 3t
the bigger one has a longer handle, but like, the whole arbor press is scaled up for the bigger one, so everything is bigger, but i dont think it has 3x longer
>>960182
I have that thing. Err, had. The shitty circle thing that holds your shit cracked. I used it to push pins into things. Ended up having to use a hammer which defeats it's purpose.
>>960182
I'd seen these prior but didn't know what they were used for. Basically, any pressing job I would have used a hammer for, or a vise to squeeze something, is meant for this type of tool.
This is the HF 1T model, something like $50 shipped (which is its own story). For my use, I bought a 24" handle in tool steel, and re-worked the useless handle retaining bolt by taking off the little handle bit (which immediately bent) and welded in a piece of scrap steel to make a real, usable wing nut. I then added a 12x8x1/2" plate flat bed and a drive plate of similar size... so I have $50 in additional parts into a $50 tool, in addition to reworking my workbench to support it and attaching it to my shop wall. Works great for what I use it for, but now need a deeper working area so will need to upgrade and wanted to know what to expect.
