take a nap :))

>>959818
Sweet jesus that is a rusty engine. Did you pull it out of a lake or something?

You're probably going to have to drill out the old bolts now, which is a bitch but doable. Following that, I think you'll have to retap the holes in the engine for a larger size thread to remount the PS pump.

There might be an extractor that will help you, but not until you unseize those threads. Get some damn Kroil if your shit is that rusty, it kicks WD-40's ass.

>>959820
I did soak it I'm liquid wrench and used left handed bits. Just drilling holes. Tapping might need to happen.

>>959818
What is still holding your water pump on?

Once you get it off you may be able to grip whats left with vise grips

ANd why are you taking the driver seat out?

>>959825
Bought new replacement seats. Old ones are torn

>>959824
If that doesn't work, a 50:50 mix of acetone and ATF is the only option.

Don't get it in anything perishable

Soaking does not work on threaded bolts. They are in essence, air tight. I'm jacked beyond all belief and snap bolts on a regular basis since I'm a mechanic. There are two ways to solve this. The first and most advised method is take a hardened drill bit and drill into the bolt enough for an extractor to fit in there, when you get the extractor in there gently hit it with a hammer till it stays in there on its own. After the extractor is wedged in there you take vise grips and manually extract the bolt by turning it in the opposite direction of the threading. If you take it slow and do it right, this works 99% of the time. Even on head bolts! The second and most pain in the ass method. Is to drill out the bolt entirely with a slightly over sized drill bit. Take it from me though, this is time/ drill bit consuming. So you might wanna buy harbor freight drill bits for this. When you get done drilling it out, just re-thread it and you're done.

>>959837
Mechanic here (aircraft, auto at used car business, all kinds of other shit) here and agree with added suggestion to buy a couple of GOOD drill bits of each size desired.

"Cobalt" or good HSS will do. I use cheapest available spray oil as coolant since oil is cheaper than bits. You need to center punch or otherwise ensure your hole is CENTERED in the broken bolt. A sharp prick punch followed by a center punch works well in reducing drill tip "walk". Most mechanics don't have machinist "center drill" bits on hand but they are wonderful things I wish I'd used twenty years ago!

Be picky and take your time. Bolt removal could piss off the Dalai Lama but it's less horrible than paying someone else to do the same thing with similar risk of fucking up the hole. No fear though, once you produce a hole thread insert kits aren't hard to use if you slaughtered the original threads trying to extract the bolt.

I use anti-seize on nearly everything. Dry threads seize by corrosion.

>Take it from me though, this is time/ drill bit consuming.

Quoted for truth. Make sure your bit is STRAIGHT in relation to the axis of the bolt! Go slow and you'll get there quicker. The satisfaction of un-fucking stuck fasteners remains no matter how many years you've been doing it.

>>959837
>>959843
These guys know what's up. The best chance you have of getting the bolt out is the head of the bolt. But, you're passed that already. The only thing they didn't specify was drill on a low speed, and use cutting oil (or pb blaster, any light oil if no cutting oil) or you'll burn your bits quickly. And DO NOT break the bit or an extractor in the hole. If you do you're fucked. They don't make an extractor/drill bit drill bit for drillin out extractors and drill bits.

>>959978
3rd option, depending on the specific situation. Find a nut, and a welder.... Weld nut onto remaining portion of bolt... Create new bolt head... ??? ...PROFIT

This method has saved my ass... Read previous poster about snapping off the extractor