Could you please suggest a simple finishing schedule to me for my walnut chandelier. I want it to be a very dark but be able to still see as much of the grain as possible. And would you be so kind to include the drying time I need on each step? And could you please suggest products that won't take very long to cure/dry?
Just a quick note I must add:
I already tried to finish this slab of walnut using BLO, then Watco Danish oil, dewaxed shellac and crystalac grain filler but somewhere I messed up and the piece turned not so very great. Some spots seemed to have absorbed more oil than the others. I also followed the instructions out of the cans and I think that led me to working with costs that weren't fully cured. So I've just sanded the piece back to bare wood and am seeking your help.
I live in a basement and don't have access to Very much sunshine this time of the year. Though I have a nice heater in my little shop if that'll help with faster drying time.
Thanks
>Sand it to 150
>rub it up with a nice wet rag
>sand it 150/240 a few hours later
>stain dark
>sand if necessary
>oil once a day while sanding between
unless youre talking about 45 degrees it wont matter much. has more to do with humidity which shouldnt be a problem in the winter
why does everyone stain their shit dark
its walnut for fucks sake
>>937000
>why does everyone stain their shit dark
its walnut for fucks sake
And the fact that in a few years it'll naturally darken anyway.
1/3 polyvarnish (matt gloss depending on finish) 1/3 tung oil 1/3 thinner mix it up. First coat apply thick leave ten and wipe leave to dry for 24 hours, light sand with 320, thin second coat leave 24, sand, third coat. Tada
>>937064
This
Staining any good hard wood is a fucking sin to be frank.
OP that looks like a nice slab, most oils will bring it out nicely. A simple and hard to mess up oil I've gotten into lately is Osmo oil. It's an oil/wax blend so it's an all-in-one sort of deal and super easy, but different from other oils to put on.
Like I said it's a wax/oil blend so you don't sploodge on a generous sup and let it soak like you might you most other oils. Instead you wipe it on evenly, work it in nicely, then move on to the next spot. It says to leave 24 hours between coats but I was getting away with building it up over hours rather than days.
I'm kind of in the same situation too but in a damp shitty detached garage with only a small heather I use to speed up finishes. Anyway look into it/Youtube it, it's good stuff if a pricey.
(I know it says floor finish but loads of people use it on furniture. It's really actually very mild in regards to fumes and shit.)
Don't stain it. Get yourself some sandpapers starting at 400 grit and work yourself up to 6000 or higher.
It'll be smoother than glass and the natural grain and beauty of the wood will really shine.
No chemicals involved, you'll just have to deal with the dust.
>>938383
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bMnWO49jajI
skip to about 4:02 for the start of the sanding process. He makes a live shelf out of a cedar tree and doesn't finish it.
