I'm installing a projector, but there's one problem - it's a plasterboard/drywall type ceiling, and I'm not sure it's going to hold the weight (about 12 pounds or 5.5kg's). I've also got no idea how thick it is, but it seems pretty sturdy.
I was originally thinking of using 4-8 toggle bolts. The thing came with 2 75mm length screws which seem like they're supposed to go into a beam/joist rather than thin board. The mount plate is exactly 6 inches in diameter.
Can I mount it as is or will I fuck myself by ripping a hole in the roof and possibly death by projector?
i have put heavier stuff than that on toggles but never on the ceiling.
if you can't lift the floor above to put extra noggins between the joists and you don't want to cut a hole then screw wood to ceiling into joists and then projector onto wood.
>>933124
>it's a plasterboard/drywall type ceiling
there are still be joists though right?
>>933124
you could mount a brace from the attic between the joists to give you a better mounting location
or just move the projector location to the next closest joist....
but if its only 12 pounds, and nobody is going to touch it once its up, really..... just use the fucking toggle bolts
>>933128
>if you can't lift the floor above
Above is the loft but the trapdoor to get in is all the way on the other side of the house, which means navigating through my roof.
There are definitely joists, in fact to get a perfect 4m throw distance it's about 20cm from the joist. I don't really want to mount it on the joist because 1) it would move the thing closer to the wall and therefore smaller image and 2) the plate wouldn't sit flush with the boards. I mean I could hide it I guess but it would probably also fuck with the alignment, since only two screws could go in.
>>933132
It would sit on the panel between the wall and the first joist. I also thought of using a brace but it would mean fucking around in my roof. I need this thing to not fuck out for at least 5 years (about when we'll replace the bulb or projector and I can inspect for sag or weakness).
This whole thing has made me realize what a lazy piece of shit I can be when instant gratification is the motive.
>>933134
>what a lazy piece of shit I can be
desu op i would be using this as an opportunity to fix your roof since you cant navigate it
>>933132
This.
If it is in the attic just screw a backer piece into the joistes. Or hell make a larger decorative block for the finish side and attach that to the ceiling
>>933135
I just wish it was more solid ceiling material. I can't fucking stand plasterboard. Reminds me of school. That and there's a rat that sounds about 10kgs heavy. I'll update my will before going up.
>>933136
Definitely want to keep it hidden, so I'll make the journey into my roof tomorrow to measure and hopefully not die. Does inch thick plywood sound good as a brace?
>>933124
cut piece of 1x10 to 17.5 or 18 inches
paint to match ceiling color
screw to ceiling making sure to hit centers on both ceiling joists
touch up paint
mount projector plate to board
done
>>933137
inch thick plywood for 12 pounds? literally screw/nail in any suitable blocking in between joists and you're good to go.
/being this autistic/retarded
>>933166
Could be good future proofing, idk. Some much higher end projectors weigh easily 3-4x what mine does.
>>933166
The projector above me is attached with six screws. The roof material is some ridiculous shit, soft as hell. Drywall is hard compared to that shit. And my projector sits there, its very sturdy. Drywall can take some punishment...
If you want to be sure: You need this plastic thingie you drill a hole for. And then you screw the screw in it. Can take 8kg each.
>>933172
>You need this plastic thingie you drill a hole for
You mean an anchor?
I just don't want the drywall sagging after a couple years and fucking up alignment. Ripping out the roof would be even worse.
>>933124
>lazy
>hold projector on ceiling
>jam a piece of wood under it to hold it up
Protip to those suggesting anchors. The weight rating on those is for a 90 degree surface as in walls. They are not rated for horizontal weight such as a ceiling.
![97121a013p1l[1].png](https://i.imgur.com/JrAHFc5.png "97121a013p1l[1].png")
>>933124
>12lb
Between 4 and 6 toggle bolts will do the trick.
Best and cheapest bet that doesn't include going to the hardware store is dependent on one thing.
Can anyone place a piece of lumber above where you are mounting the projector?
If so you can just use a strip of ply or pine to use as a.backing and your problem is solved
>>933124
You could adapt an 'old work' ceiling fan mounting bracket. These are designed to be inserted into the space between two joists through a standard sized fixture box hole. They expand and 'bite' into the joists on either side. Then, there's a hangar that bolts onto the bracket which can be adjusted latteraly to position the fan (whatever) as needed.
These things are pretty strong. They are designed to hold up an out-of-balance fan which will be wobbling around for years without failing.
>>933124
1. find and mark where ceiling joists are.
2. mount projector bracket to a stylish and finished plank of wood.
3. orient plank on ceiling so it can be screwed into joists.
4. insert projector into bracket.
5. install a ceiling electrical socket and media wire pass- through box next to projector.
>>934178
I was just going to suggest this, almost.
Make an attractive enclosure made out of a visually subtle material, or a material matching the furniture, decor, or cabinetry in the room. Mount said enclosure to the joists, and your mounting worries will go away.
This helps camouflage the projector in the room, helps reduce noise caused by the fan running, and its a fun little project to ensure your $5000 4k projector doesn't fall while you're watching my lil pony.
Make sure you leave enough ventilation for it because they are essentially like EZ-bake ovens with a hotass bulb in them.
![CMA165_large[1].jpg](https://i.imgur.com/6yhlKqa.jpg "CMA165_large[1].jpg")
>>934172
What this fine and intelligent gentleman has said.
Spend the $15 to buy the part you need and stop looking for loaves of bread in dumpsters just because "muheverythingmustbeDIY..."
>pic related.
>>934192
>link even more related
http://www.milestone.com/products/chief/accessories/projector/structural/structural_adapters/cma165
Pic attached is how I'd do it and how I've seen larger lights mounted.
Make the patress boards before you drop them in between the joists in the attic.
Also those of you suggesting toggle screws to support in plaster board hollow walls and ceilings I can only advise against.
The hole you need to get the fixing into the hollow if far greater diameter than the screw, in plaster board terms it gives lower surface area to fix the screw against.
I've also found them to be weak regardless of what the manufactures advise with load bearing.
Pic related are a much better fixing to use in hollows with plaster/driwall.
Mounting 12lb direct to the ceiling would be a bad idea. It depends on how thick the plaster board is, how it's fixed to the joists (tacked or screwed). Me personally. I would add a solid fixing point in the ceiling.
I just rehung my projector this morning after having it hung in another room for a year.
I have new drywall and was able to just screw a couple of the plastic drywall screws in. If you are worried about the drywall condition use those drywall toggle bolts.
Mine is plenty sturdy, no vibrations in the picture during heavy bass and able to withstand some leverage when adjust the projector angle.
As long as no one jumps and hangs on it there isn't any concern.
