I inherited a pair of Marantz HD 660s from my grandfather.
I'm having some trouble finding some replacement capacitors with the same values, and I'm wondering if anyone might have some insight on removing the dials from the wooden case.
This is the underside of the dial assembly in the front
I found this photo online, but I can only find a 39uf solen cap online.
Is it alright to replace a 40uf cap with a 39 uf cap?
>>927566
I doubt the difference would be particularly noticeable or avoidable with slight EQ adjustment. Just get as close as you can find, and make sure they're not fake.
>>927587
thank you.
how will the change in cap voltage from 100v to 250v or 400v change the sound?
>>927612
Now with that, I have no idea. Looking forward to the anon that does.
>>927556
Why do you need to remove the controls?
Meanwhile, knobs might be screwed on, do they have grub screws like pic related?
>>927618
the knobs pictured here refuse to turn, and they are smooth
A variance of one or two uF isn't a big deal; most new caps have much lower ESR values than whatever it came with (the example picture you have shows a difference of 5-15% depending on the cap) so it's already probably going to be a bit more 'exact' to the intended value than the old caps were anyway. If you're really worried though, you can combine caps to get whatever exact value you're aiming for.
As for the L-Pads (dials) on the front, removal is going to be a bitch; if they seem like they're failing or have dead-zones, the easiest thing to do is to grab a can of Deox-It or contact cleaner and hose a shitload into the gaps the leads are (hopefully; I have heard of enclosed or otherwise sealed L-Pads) coming out of if those raised bits have gaps, those should be good as well. Spray, then spend a few minutes working the knobs fully, end to end. Repeat a few times and they should be fine. I rebuilt my pair of Akai SW-160s last year, and my L-Pads had massive dead-zones, including their default positions. They now work just fine, no replacements/removals needed.
>>927612
It won't.
>>927628
>refuse to turn
what do you mean refuse to turn?
like you cant change the setting or anything?
they might be more rotary switch action, like click to a set resistance rather than continuously variable. turn them harder.
if they are smooth they must pull off i guess right guys? ..guys?
>>927633
Thank you.
I'll grab some deox it for the leads.
as for combining caps, does that mean I can solder these together to reach 40uf?
>>927640
Yes; if you wire them in parallel they will combine their values. Seriously though, the ESR value is still going to be way lower; it's not necessary. Also, I didn't bother with Solen; The cheaper Daytons are just fine. I didn't know the L-Pads were actually jammed/inoperable though. That's a bit trickier. Radioshack's (If you still have one around; a few survived) generic Lubricant spray is what I used; it's basically just Deox-It and Mineral Oil. It may loosen the L-Pads up.
What's your plan for the woofer?
>>927649
The speakers were sitting in a garage for a good 20 years and the foam is pretty much gone. I found some foam kits online so I'm gonna order one.
>>927649
point taken on the caps. When they arrive in the mail and I install them, what kind of adhesive should I use? is hot glue alright?
>>927652
Hot glue is fine. The 'stored in a garage' part probably explains the jammed L-pads though, depending on the climate. Good luck with those.
>>927612
Its just a "dont exceed this voltage" rating. So anything equal or higher to the original rating is fine.
