Hey,
Is there a special trick to finding a replacement drill chuck key? Lost the one for my drill press (an inexpensive, tallish China model with a 19mm chuck.) Lost years ago, have never been able to find a replacement, but that said I'm not sure how they're sized. Seems like there should be a standard diameter of at least the key end, specified, so that you can get an exact match, rather than just buy-and-try like pic related.
Thanks for any help.
Keys are sold in relation to the Chuck aperture.
>>922312
Thanks. Assume by aperture you're referring to the max drill bit size it can hold. I'd always suspected there was a chart like this with chuck key numbers, but have never seen one, so thanks for that.
I'll order one of these quad tools and see how it goes.
>>922308
Years ago, a buddy gave me a bench top drill press. I bought the same universal chuck key pictured. the teeth on the chuck are too worn. So I use two adjustable pliers to change bits. Just too cheap to fix it.
>>922384
Another way is cut the end off a screwdriver to use as a spindle lock in the holes of the Chuck and a set of water pump pliers on the outer sleeve of the Chuck.
>>922308
>Seems like there should be a standard diameter of at least the key end, specified, so that you can get an exact match, rather than just buy-and-try like pic related.
The chuck key dimensions are not exactly standardized, but there are a few common sizes used.
>>922384
>Years ago, a buddy gave me a bench top drill press. I bought the same universal chuck key pictured. the teeth on the chuck are too worn. So I use two adjustable pliers to change bits. Just too cheap to fix it.
This is possible, but would surprise me. The chuck parts are usually hardened pretty well, and the keys not as much--just so that the keys wear out and not the chuck. You may just need the sleeve height adjusted; for that you need a hydraulic press or arbor press. Or take the chuck off, and take the chuck AND the key to a machine shop and ask them if they can adjust the sleeve for a few bucks. It takes about two minutes to do.
>>922392
>Another way is cut the end off a screwdriver to use as a spindle lock in the holes of the Chuck and a set of water pump pliers on the outer sleeve of the Chuck.
Another way is to just,,,, go buy a new chuck. Generic keyed or keyless chucks don't cost much, and you can spend a little or a lot.
(pic related--these are 1/2" chucks shown; 3/8" would be cheaper)
Chucks have either tapered or threaded mounts. Either can be changed without any special tools.
Hand-held drills (even good-brand ones) have threaded mounts because threaded generally works better on a hand-held drill.
Bigger & older drill presses will have tapered mounts.
Newer / cheaper drill presses usually have threaded mounts to avoid the one-star "IT JUST FELL OFF!! NOTHING WAS EVEN HOLDING IT ON!!!" customer reviews.
>>922424
>go buy a new Chuck
>don't cost much
OK m8
>>922424
well damn, pic does not show?.....
>>922430
>replace Jacob's with shit tier
>sake of cost of a key or bit of messing around
OK m8
>>922427
no, there's cheap ones, I swear. Look at places that sell China-made machine tools and supplies.
Ball-bearing chucks are machine-tool heavy-duty types; none of them are cheap.
Jacobs is a brand-name, so it isn't cheap. (Jacobs is an actual chuck company)
The Dewalt chuck there is an example of a cheaper chuck.
It is possible that a cheapo hand drill might use a non-standard chuck, but it's not likely.
The cheapest 3/8" drill chucks sell for less than $10, so they wholesale for prolly <$5.
It's not worth the bother for a company building drills to make their own chucks.
>>922431
If you wanted a Jacobs, the cheaper ones still don't cost much. (I dunno what chuck brands are big in Euro-land)
The $160 one in the bigger pic above is a ball-bearing chuck, so it is expensive.
Pic related is $21
>replace Jacob's with shit tier
I don't think there's a huge difference between lower-cost drill chucks, myself. None of them spin very concentric. And I have machine tools myself; I just get the heavy-duty 1/2" generic China chucks.
If you pay the big money for a CNC-grade chuck then it will have a very tight TIR tolerance--but then, this is what the $300 chucks are for.
And do note: that $300 Enco chuck is a China-made generic. If you wanted a CNC-grade drill chuck from a first-world manufacturer, you'd prolly pay 2-3X more at least.
And anyway--if a drill chuck sleeve won't engage the key fully, then the chuck just needs an adjustment. The sleeve needs to be slid down a bit using a machine press. The tooth engagement of the chuck sleeve and the key is one of those dimensions that isn't standardized. It might work perfect again after it was adjusted.
>>922439
sheet, disappearing pic again
>>922439
Stop for a moment and reconsider what you're saying.
Scrap a Jacob's for a Chuck a quarter of the price because you don't have a key for it.
That is what you just said.
For the price of a new chuck you could buy the key for the Jacobs.
>>922443
>Stop for a moment and reconsider what you're saying.
>Scrap a Jacob's for a Chuck a quarter of the price because you don't have a key for it.
>That is what you just said.
>For the price of a new chuck you could buy the key for the Jacobs.
No, I said that the chuck might need adjustment, if it still won't work properly with a new key.
If you want or need to replace a chuck on any kind of motorized drill, it is likely possible.
>>922447
???
>>922439
Chuck theory clearly explained!
Thanks for the useful info.
>>922424
Op here. I didn't know there sleeves were adjustable like that. Explains a lot. Will keep in mind when new key comes in.
