Hey guys. I have to replace a few feet of supply line from the furnace to the house, and rather than spend a few hundred bucks hiring some company I figure I can rig it up myself even though I have no major ducting experience to speak of. Is it essentially just get a few feet of 14in insulated duct and clamping or taping both ends?
>>915343
You do need some proper duct tape on those exhaust tubes. Not the plastic duck tape, metal foil duct tape if you don't want to die from carbon monoxide. I don't think you'll need an insulated duct, but get liberal with the metal foil tape. The better you seal it air tight, the better the heat gets to where you want it. The tape won't hold it in place by itself.
>>915343
Pretty much. There's a reason there are Mexicans doing it for like $12 a hour.
Definitely get DUCT tape, not duck tape. It drives me up a fucking wall when people call the Duck brand tape duct. Duck tape will usually last 2 years before it falls off, duct tape will last the life of the duct undisturbed, and Pookie will outlast the duct.
might be better to go with pipe? not sure how many degrees the insulated piping can handle being plastic on the inside and right next to flame box and whatnot
1. foil tape, with the writing on it. That's the code-approved stuff.
2. self-tapping duct screws. clamps are for flexible in most cases.
3. a hex-drive bit holder for the screws
Use duct taping or mv181 mastic to seal. You can use both.
>>915343
Use hard pipe not flex and dont worry about insulation. screw with 1/2" sheet metal screws and seal with aluminium foil tape and put some around that collar coming of the plenum too. that thing is brutal
>>916701
This I wanted to type this but was too lazy.
>>916701
Some municipalities requires 3 screws per joint evenly space. Kinda hard to do sometimes.
>>916703
yes ASHRAE standards for that size pipe are 3 screws but not always possible. thats what foil tape is for.
