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greasing all threads
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You are currently reading a thread in /diy/ - Do It yourself

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Hello, /n/ here.

In the bike world, mechanics and those who work on their own bikes make a common practice of greasing almost all threads on bolts with the exception of a few cases which either call for mixture or a dry fit. This is typical, since a light coat of grease will ensure that when it comes time to replace the bolt however many years down the line, corrosion will not lock the pieces together and potentially ruin expensive frames or componentry.

But then I mention my practice in other /diy/ disciplines I sometimes get chastised, as the grease makes the bolts too easy to overtorque and that torque values are given without grease in mind.

What are your thoughts? Greasing bolts: cheap insurance, or a recipe for disaster?
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>>915029
>mixture
Autocorrected from "loctite"
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>>915030
Wow
Autocorrect algorithms ought to have a filter for the frequency of corrected characters. Correcting 5 characters of a 7 character word is pretty fucking ridiculous.
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Don't over torque
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High torque applications is exactly where you WANT anti-seize, cause those are the hardest to get out later. If overtorqueing is a problem, just use a torque wrench and don't do that. Also, situations where it's exposed to water, or heat. Heat expansion can torque screws like a bitch, no matter what torque rating you put them in at. 90% of the time it's overkill and just not needed, but when it's called for, it's fucking gold.

Now, I wouldn't use plain grease, since that's also a lubricant and can work both ways, helping the bolt unscrew. But proper anti seize compound is great.
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>>915029
i use copper grease on my car
makes it easier
i wouldn't think that whatever extra force you might be able to add from the extra torque would make much of a difference because its not made of paper.
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it's especially important for fastening dissimilar metals. Thread in a steel bottom bracket to an aluminum frame without grease and you will never ever get it out.

btw, steel is real. aluminum is a nigger metal.
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>>915029
Tar. I use this tar spray. Very common in my part of the globe. It has a more volatile part which evaporates and leaves this sticky shit which keeps the bolts from getting stuck. It makes them harder to turn also so it keeps them in place while preventing rust.
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>>915029
>bicycles
>mechanics
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>>915029
Don't do it, it doesn't tighten with regular torque values and is a lazy cop out for regular maintenance.

Do proper maintenance and replace bolts when necessary.

I hate working on old boat motors, you never know when was the last time some one had it apart. The seals blow on the inside and water leaks into the screws corroding them, when you go to take it apart the screw just snaps in half.
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>>915071
Who do you think builds and tunes bicycles?
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>>915149
Chinamen?
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>>915029
these
>>915052
>>915030
how many times do I need to tell you? the right tool for the right job. anti seize, loctite, anything that cures so that it holds the bolt in place. not fucking lubricant.

>>915071
ill take that bait. bicycle faggot here.
>thinks bicycle maintenance is a joke
there is a lot more to bicycles than you think, young padawan. tensioning spokes is its own discipline. it's like you've never ridden a <10kg bicycle up to a speed of 100km/hr before.

shit starts to get weird and rattle apart if everything isnt perfectly tuned at these speeds. not that it matters if you're just riding a wallmart bike around town though. there are many differences between how you own a bicycle and a bicycle shaped toy. for example, having a wheel built will cost 50$ in labour while an entire bike from wallmart costs less than this. so there is no maintenance on cheap bikes. you just replace it.
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>>915052
>>915047
>>915029
>>915053

I don't think you quite understand. Lubricating bolts won't increase torque; it will increase compressive force and tension of the bolt. However, it will allow for a more even distribution of torque throughout the threads, and as mentioned, prevent corrosion.
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>>915266
I don't think that you understand. What lubricant does is reduce the friction allowing for more fastener preload for a given applied force. A good deal of force (80% at times) is doing nothing but overcoming friction between threads and the underside o the faster head/nut face.
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>>915246
>ill take that bait. bicycle faggot here.
>>thinks bicycle maintenance is a joke
>there is a lot more to bicycles than you think, young padawan. tensioning spokes is its own discipline. it's like you've never ridden a <10kg bicycle up to a speed of 100km/hr before.
>shit starts to get weird and rattle apart if everything isnt perfectly tuned at these speeds. not that it matters if you're just riding a wallmart bike around town though. there are many differences between how you own a bicycle and a bicycle shaped toy. for example, having a wheel built will cost 50$ in labour while an entire bike from wallmart costs less than this. so there is no maintenance on cheap bikes. you just replace it.
Mechanic means a trained certified professional, ASE certified. There's even licensing involved to legally do mechanic work for a shop. Bike techs are simply trained, not certified by any standard outside the bike shop. I can walk into a bike shop tomorrow and start working right away. I'd have to get licensed before an autoshop would even look at my application. There's a huge freakin difference.
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>>915246

I taught myself how to balance spokes when I was 13, when my cousin who is a bike 'mechanic' found out he came to show me how wrong I am and begrudgingly admitted I did just fine even without using a special spoke wrench.

I'm just saying if a 12 year old can figure it out without using special tools...it probably isn't 'mechanic' work. I don't really care how much people pay you.
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>>916189
... there are twelve year olds who have built cars, with help pulling parts from a junkyard. your argument is invalid.
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The spergtards who snivel about lubing threads can do what they like, but I avoid dry threads unless the factory assembly manual specifies them as on cylinder head bolds. I either use anti-seize or Loctite (or specific industrial sealers as appropriate) because naked threads can corrode or gall even if clean.

I've been wrenching a long time (jet mech, car/truck/motorcycle mech, industrial maintenance tech yadda yadda) and I abominate stuck fasteners. I've taken apart assemblies I anti-seized decades ago with no fuss.

Plenty of "12 year olds" learn basic mechanic tasks then advance through the years. It's fun, you can save tens of thousands of dollars or more throughout your life, and you depend much less on other people. The tactile experience of wrenching can start early like anything else. Plenty of Anons learned computers at an early age. Bicycle parts being somewhat delicate, learning on them enforces patience and care or your shit breaks. Starting that way is fine, and if you like two-wheelers you can move to motorcycles as I did. (Very few motorcyclists can lace a spoke wheel. If you learn that you can make some cash from dirt bikers on the side, or do rim swaps for chobber/bobber peeps.)
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>>916301
There are twelve year olds who have built pencil case alarm clocks what's your point
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>>915246

>tfw people in America actually spend $10,000 on bicycles they use non-competitively for "excersise".
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>too easy to overtorque and that torque values are given without grease in mind.
That's not universally true. If the manufacturer specifies that grease is used, the torque rating will have taken that into account.

>>915246
>Abusing SI prefixes and unit symbols
Please re-read the SI Brochure.

>>916185
>No one outside the American automotive industry is a mechanic
Nice implications my friend.

>>916189
>'mechanic'
You clearly don't put much stock in his technical know-how, so why do you trust him to verify that you did a proper job on the bicycle wheel?
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I've never greased a thread for the sake of it loosening it later. Only on things like head gaskets and only when that's what the manufacturer recommends. Things like that, where a minor error could be unnoticeable for 70,000 miles or where you'll realize you'll have to redo the job the second you turn the key; do what the engineers say. I rarely come across bolts that are actually seized as I'm older and have amassed a quantity of tools. I've managed to take down even the toughest bolts with various breaker bars, my zip gun, and the correct 6 point socket. Most of the issues I've seen people have are using the incorrect tool, like a 12 point 3/4 instead of a 6 point 19mm, then try to use a small ratchet on it, twisting their body to get more leverage, letting the socket angle while doing so, then ripping off the top edge of the fastener. Most things I know will be stubborn(which you can learn from a couple bad experiences) I throw the correct size socket on my largest breaker bar that'll fit, find the best angle I can get, and apply a moderate, even amount of torque, slowly increasing force until I break it free. If I don't get results I'll attempt to tighten it and the second it budges I'll stop and attempt to loosen. That works for just about everything. If I think there's a chance I'll snap the end off I'll hit it with kroil or transfluid/acetone and let it sit before I even put a tool on it. If I don't think that'll work I'll get my oxy/acetylene out and put that on it.

In my experience, a little patience will pay off big time. Slow your approach and carefully consider your options before rushing in, consider possible bad out comes, and how you'll prevent them and deal with them if the job goes sour.

That being said, I do use a coarse anti seize on parts that get hot, like heat shields and exhaust systems. And I use the weakest loctite I have on parts that that have a tendency of backing out.
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I grease every thread on my bicycle as well. It just works.
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>>915029
auto mechanic here

In my world, a few bolts are given "wet torque" specs this usually refers to simple oil like 10w-30 if you use a better oil however, like ARP assembaly lube, the bolt will stretch farther at the same amount of torque, so ARP includes a guide that will tell you something like "torque to 80% of factory spec"

of course you could always just use german torque like everyone else does. GOOD N' TIGHT.

TL:DR use less torque.
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>>915029
Pretty sure you're over thinking this.
Grease the bolts and don't overtighten like a mongoloid, or don't and worry about 10 years from now where we are all riding fart-powered hover bikes. Either way, it doesn't matter.
>Its like getting a million dollars, or a million dollars and 1 cent. One is technically better than the other, but who the fuck cares.
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grease your wheel nuts on your car too. Especialy if you have alminium rims.
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>>916388
>trust very undertrained, over grown children to work on car
Okay buddy, take your car to a bike tech if you want. Let him dump toxic fluids down the drain and maybe cause a gas leak. Enjoy breaking down more often.
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I put either copper anti-seize or Loc-Tite on just about every single bolt I touch.

Had one too many times where bolts have vibrated loose on my motorcycle.
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>>916599
no do not ever do this
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>>916763
Just live in a country where you need to change tyres two time as a year! As an added bonus you get the ye ole rust treatment from the road salt at the same time!
Keeps you wheel nuts openable but everything else stuck!
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>>916735
Where did I ever imply that I would hire a bike mechanic to do an auto mechanic's job?
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>>915159
SIDES IN SPAXE.
Thread replies: 33
Thread images: 2

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