Didn't see any in the catalog. Post your simple questions here
If I want to install a double-DIN car stereo but one of the slots it would replace has all the A/C controls, is there some way around that or do I have to settle for a single-DIN stereo?
>is there some way around that.
- If your AC control was all electronc, maybe possible (theoretically) to move it - but, where the fuck to? Has manual rotary dials, etc. - Nope, no way whatsoever - replacing your car for one with a double-din be fucking easier.
>I have to settle for a single-DIN stereo?
- Basically, Yes.
>>912764
That looks like a BMW e46 radio. There is a kit/mod to move the AC down to occupy the gap below. I think it is called the AC Climate control relocation kit (supplied by BMW)
Google "install double din in e46"
>>912780
- yeah, dropping an 'all electronic' e46 AC control a notch maybe possible - find me an(y) example where they have done so where previously manual rotaries (as pictured) were installed tho..
If the rotary controls are/were also a simply removable electronic panel (?) maybe possible. If the rotaries are controlling vents manually on stalks or some shit, I really, really would not be in any hurry to be fucking around trying to relocate these, personally. Not that the /diy/ electronic AC control relocation looked much fun either..
Basically, my opinion remains as above, if manual rotary controls? - leave the fuck alone, get a single din with drop-down screen. The pic aint original anyway, OP prob drives a Honda or some shit.
Get a single din that slides out with a tv screen
any of you have any experience making/installing burglar bars on your home windows?
i got the design and fab pretty covered but im kinda hung up on the installation
my main question is how would i securely anchor the damn things. im thinking maybe drilling a hole into the brick and shoving piece of roundstock into the hole and attaching the bars by welding them to the roundstock. that way i dont have to use bolts or screws but my main concern is the inserted roundstock not being rigid enough. any suggestions would be appreciated
What to y'all think a good but affordable material would be to practice making beautiful everyday objects?
>>912988
Wood?
>>912974
Aren't concrete anchors the customary thing for this work?
>>912974
I'm guess you want it to be totally removable, which is why you're thinking rods instead of screws. If you're going to the effort of welding, you would be better off with >>913075 and weld the bolts to the bars to keep them from being turnable.
alternatively, do that but use security bolts with those anchors. such as those one way screws you see in some bathrooms.
I'm building a desk out of 5, 5 foot long 2x6 wood planks. What is the best way to join them together side by side? Glue? One of those metal plates underneath with wood screws?
>>913086
The bolt is part of the anchor. You can change the nuts if you like.
A simple way to make them 'security' nuts is to take a small chisel to the threads after tightening and bash the everloving shit out of them. If fuckered up good enough, the bolt will rather snap before the nut comes off. (Meaning you can't take them off without an angle grinder. But neither can a burglar.)
>>913149
I did this and used pocket screws. Probably not worth the $100 investment in the Kreg pocket hole jig if you're just doing this one project though.
If not pocket holes, I would say dowels... lots of dowels for this one...
>>912810
>>912772
Mine are actually buttons but I think I've decided to go with single-DIN after all. Doesn't make sense investing in some state of the art music/GPS display for a 2002 car, could easily just get a regular GPS unit and an iPhone-compatible stereo and avoid an unnecessary overhaul of the dashboard.
i'm an eeng student who's made a website to display all his /diy/ related projects, and i'm trying to create a good homepage. currently it looks like this
[my name]
Electrical Engineering Student - Aspiring Technology and Electronics Enthusiast
but that's so fucking drab and generic. what can i do to stand out, especially to potential employers?
>>913237
I put an Alpine UTE72BT in mine. Cheap as shit, but does Bluetooth and sounds OK with OEM speakers and a tiny sub in the boot. Also charges my phone from the USB slot.
As an extra I swapped the front panel LEDs from red to amber so it matches the rest of the dash - 605nm wavelength diodes, they're pretty much spot on.
You might consider the same solution. Cheap, easy, works.
So I've got this CNC laser cutter and I use it to cut tubes of wood.
Anyways the smoke gets everywhere. It's vented out but it leaves a brownish layer of residue that makes the laser a fucking terror to clean, and when I'm done cleaning that, I've got sticky smelly hands and the shit DOES NOT come off for days. On the upside I now clip my fingernails regularly because if they're at all long, dark brown shit stains their undersides.
How the fuck do I clean this shit off? What's it called, anyway? Tar?
I'm looking for peg loom patterns... anyone have any favorites?
>>913242
Have something exciting about you and your ideas. Create only silly shit that will attract attention, like... I don't know. Dumb shit. Normies love dumb shit.
>>913266
Uhh... Gloves?
in order to simplify my amplifier, i would like to replace one of the tubes with a solid state amp, preferably a depletion mode mosfet. the stage is two 12at7 triode stages in parallel to drive a transformer (which drives a reverb tank). any pointers on where to start in designing this circuit?
How do I label a pcb? Pic related
>>913242
Google single page websites. As an employer, I think those are interesting
>>913837
A very diy solution would be toner transfer.
Otherwise you'd have the mask printed on at the factory where you order your boards from.
>>913266
>What's it called, anyway? Tar?
Yes. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tar
tl;dr Tar is one of the things you get when you heat wood to the point that it chemically breaks down.
As for cleaning tar, try an oil-based solvent that's safe for use with the laser and/or your hands. Or industrial cleaner / hand cleaner.
Is there any way of powering a 6 kw electric motor with approximately 6 sq meters available for any renewable source of energy eg solar panels, wind turbines etc?
What are some isolated solutions for controlling a high voltage line from logic level?
I don't really want to use a transistor network because I'm not confident in not destroying things unless this is isolated.
I could use mechanical or solid state relays but those are either on or off.
What would I look for for some kind of isolated power varying solution?
What is the belst welder to connect mail rings?
>>914118
how much money do you have?
motor driven autotransformer
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ka-LEcZaYqQ
there used to be a better video of this but i can't find it.
the thing he has made has 3 autotransformers, the big coils you can see under the control panel which are motorised to vary the output.
unless you were thinking something a bit more heavy duty?
>>914149
I'm equal parts entertained and bloody terrified
>>914118
Search "optocoupler" or "optoisolator".
>>914158
my favourite video was when he had a friend around and they noticed the street lights went out whenever they were experimenting.
>>914127
I'd suggest a TIG welder with high-frequency start and good control at low amps. Something like a Miller Maxstar 150 STH. I imagine that there are cheaper options than that available, but I do know that Miller makes some very nice TIG machines. I've used some for tasks more fiddly than typical chain mail that I'd be reluctant to try a cheapo welder on.
Anyone have experience with Evolution brand miter saws?
>>914348
bought one yesterday. haven't used it too much but so far it seems good and all my research before hand suggested it should be pretty good.
and for $199 its hard to beat
>>914355
Thanks!
I've bought cheapest-brand power tools before, never again. These seemed like a good choice between cheapest shit and top tier, but I don't fully trust reviewers either.
I don't need it to be super precise, but I'm tired of not getting a clean straight cut with hand tools or jigsaw even after clamping and measuring 3 times etc.
I want to build an "emergency" USB-charger from disposable batteries because I'm too jewish to buy a powerbank. Is there anything I need to do other than limiting the voltage somewhere around 5V? I'm thinking about using a potentiometer and something to measure the Voltage so It doesn't fluctuate too much when the battery discharges
>>914438
Use a fuckload of them. 2 AAs can't even charge an iPhone 4S, let alone a modern phone.
Disposable chemistries, in general, simply can't provide the high current that modern devices need. This first came to light when digital cameras became popular, and duracells would give you twenty shots before expiring.
>>914445
I'll probably only be charging my 3ds which has a 900mA current drain. Considering that, according to wikipedia, a single alkaline Battery has about 1700 to 3000 mAh and I will need to use 3 or 4 to get the 5V voltage of an USB port, it doesn't sound like I could drain them that quickly. Did I go wrong somewhere or will 4 AA alkaline battery be enough for charging?
>>914454
If a 3ds is like a DS-lite, you don't need to do anything: just stick four AAs in a battery holder and plug it straight into the charging port.
The DS-lite has an internal regulator, and doesn't need its charger to be voltage-regulated. It handles the varying voltage itself, and can quite happily charge off four AAs in series with no other components.
I see no reason to assume the 3ds would be different, but if it breaks you get to keep both bits.
>>914454
That said, at 900ma, you'll be lucky to get 1/3 of the capacity out of an alkaline battery.
Once you pass 100ma, you've lost 1/3 of the capacity; once you pass 500ma, 3/5. The energy's still there, the battery just can't supply the current and voltage necessary to extract it.
Because alkalines really want to be discharged at 50ma (75mw), there's no real way to avoid this unless you plan on using 60 cells at once.
http://data.energizer.com/PDFs/E91.pdf
Dont know if this fits, but if I could distill ethanol from wood, could I use it in a car?
>>914518
Ethanol is ethanol. "Wood alcohol" is methanol, though. Producing methanol by dry distillation of wood is wasteful as hell, too.
I have a bunch of broken stoves, refrigerators, dishwashers, and washing machines. Can I build anything cool out of them?
Whats up dudes!!!!1! I recently picked up a Shakespeare GBS 2500 and am gonna throw it into my 1995 Toyota corolla! Only thing I don't know is the name of this style of connector, any help?
>>914634
Probably
>>912764
could someone please explain what Bipolar NRZ means in relation to line coding? i've been looking for answers on the web but i keep getting contradictory answers.
>>914963
my mistake, please explain bipolar RZ (return to zero)
>>914964
bipolar means tertiary basically, rather than binary
rtz means 1 is + 0 is -, signal returns to zero between 1's and 0s so you have a clock edge to go on if you send loads of 1s or 0s
Hey guys so I'm buying an LED strip for my room like pic related. Though the thing is, it's gonna look bright as fuck and lightweight tacky so I'm trying to get some diffusers to place over them.
Holy shit though is it hard to find some decently cheap ones. Can anyone point me in the right direction? I tried eBay for some cheapass chinese shit, like under 10 bucks for 5 meters but couldnt find anything. I swear for just some strips or tubes of frosted plastic people want a shit ton of cash.
>>915327
>Frosted plastic diffusers
>Not cove lighting master race
I have a pine wood bookshelf that I just stripped paint from (and some of the stain)
Right now it's splotchy stain, what's the best way to seal and restain this? I'll sand it down before I seal. What grit sandpaper?
>>914728
quite possibly molex .093
"MOLEX-03-09-1022"
>>915327
Why don't you just buy remote LED strips that are dimmable you tight fuck.
>>915349
120. Work up to 180. Briwax. If you feel it's needs a clear varnish or shellac on top, go for it. Sand with 180 or lighter between coats.
I'm a poorfag and would like to make a crappy resistance soldering iron from scratch. I thought about pulling the heating plates from a toaster, rolling the up a bit so they form a nice tip, adding a grip to them and hooking them up to one pole of a power supply. I would then hook the other pole to a simple contact and some wire. When you bring them together, the heat plates should give off heat which I will use to melt down the solder. Should I go for an AC or a DC power supply? How much voltage / current will I need? Is this design even possible?
>>915391
Will that prevent the pine from soaking the stain unevenly?
>>915436
what you're describing is not a resistance soldering iron, it's just hot wire soldering, and it wont work because (1) the nichrome wire will oxidize and not deliver the heat to the load, and (2) it doesnt have enough thermal mass, so as soon as you touch it to something, it cools down.
soldering can be challenging enough with good equipment. if you use shit equipment, then it's an exercise in masochism.
i got 5 irons from the thrift store over the course of a year, average price around $3.
>>913266
Yeah it'll be turpene rich tar. Turpentine or acetone might do the trick.
>>915481
>it wont work because (1) the nichrome wire will oxidize
Wait, how do they not oxidize when used in toasters?
>>915436
Making your own resistance soldering iron is generally a bad idea unless you really understand what you're doing, and how to insulate & isolate everything. Otherwise you've got a portable electrocution machine/defibrillator.
Anyway, see http://technitoys.com/diy-resistance-soldering-outfit/
Anyone itt ever use aniline dye on wood? Having trouble finding articles online that don't come across as an ad for a particular brand. Looking at getting a compressor and hvlp gun to stain and clear coat with, just wondering how easy it is to use dye with one, and is it better to use alcohol or water based with a gun. I'll be doing mostly guitars, cabinets, and desks song other things.
>>915524
I use to keep my iron in the garage, I guess summertime during winter a mouse chewed the cable. It was only one spot and nothing else around it. I didn't notice before I used it, and while shifting myself it zapped me. Doesn't have to be an iron, but anything mains powered that is handheld needs to be insulated properly, if you're moving it around a lot it's only a matter of time before it gets you.
Not sure if this is the right place for this question.
I made this oversized coffee table and I was wondering what people think i should charge for it. Anything under $250 and i'm not really making enough money to justify doing it again. so shoot me a price. Thanks
>>915521
> Wait, how do they not oxidize when used in toasters?
all metals oxidize, and heated metals oxidize even more. it doesnt matter in a toaster if it takes 10 seconds longer, but with a soldering iron, it's the difference between complete failure and success.
Anyone have any plans or good ideas for a tool box to take to job sites?
No real idea of what I want to do, thought of making what amounts to a small cabinet with 2 doors on top and a drawer on the bottom for screws.
>>915579
I just use a tool bag, holds all my small shit, drills, rotozip, ect. then leave my big shit in the car. The problem is at the end of a job everything just gets thrown in there.
>>915579
What kind of work?
>>915586
Thats close to what I do now and I hate that everything gets tossed in every night and then I have to search for it in the morning.
>>915587
Installing cabinets, most of what I want to store is hand tools. Heres a general idea of what I have everyday right now.
Spring clamps
Hammer
3 combo squares
File
Drill bits, spade bits
Channel locks
Flat bar
Screw drivers
Various pliers
>>915576
Use some nicer looking wood, maybe use some proper joinery, I could see at least $500 for that.
—Someone who hasn't ever bought new furniture
>>915576
It looks like construction grade wood and galvanized nails. I definitely wouldn't pay $250 for it. It's not my style anyways though. That's not the issue though, anyone who has been working with wood any amount of time will see that. The average person on etsy won't necessarily see it, all you can do is try to sell it at a little bit more than you think you can get and keep knocking the price down til it sells.
>>915591
>>915594
Thanks for the replies. Its my first shot at this. I used wood I took out of a house that I remodeled, And I have tons of it. The house was built in 1868. I really like the look of the wood, The pics don't really do it justice. I planed some of it down, and linseed all of it. I also put copper nail heads on the screw holes so it didn't look as shitty. I agree proper joinery would be better.
>>915589
A nice wood box would make you look like a serious professional doing cabinets. If you want it to be rigid and last a long time it'll have to use thick wood/ply(I'm sure you know this), so it'll already be heavy before it's loaded. That's a big reason they make mobile boxes out of sheet metal or plastic(besides production costs). If you cart it in on the hand truck it wouldn't be an issue.
I want to make a pong table with blacklights under a plexiglass surface. It would look like this one.
http://s24.photobucket.com/user/corvettecrazy/library/Table?sort=4&page=1
I'd put in two blacklights, one on each long side of the table.
Would I have to worry about burning the wood with the blacklights? If so, how would I go about doing this without burning the wood?
>>915623
They way you are facing the lights will make a difference. I would be more worried about the plexiglass melting. But you could use some flame retarded shit around the lights if you are that worried about it. Tin foil would work too.
Also dont forget about the fact that playing ping pong (or more likely beer pong) is going to be hard in low light, and black light. But with a good ball, net, some lines, and alot of black lights it mite b cool
>>915623
very bad idea. plexi is too slippery for ping-pong or, what i once saw on a diy show on TV, for a pool table.
>>915630
Thanks. I was also thinking of lining the edges of the bottom of the interior with LED strips. That would probably work out better.
>>915631
>>915623
Hmm, what do you think of the idea of roughing up the surface of the plexi? It'll make the surface much less slick and give the appearance of smoked/fogged glass.
I wouldn't be worried about the wood burning, you could always get some metal u brackets to space the lights away from from the wood. If you use 2x6s and the lights are one and a half inches wide(I'm guessing you'll use something smaller) that'll give you approx 2 inches of air on either side(minus the thickness of the plexiglass if you recess it so it's flush). I think that'll be enough to not melt it. Get a scrap piece and set it half that distance above one of the lights and see how it reacts.
If you finish the bottom with wood you could move the lights even lower. If you have an issue with heat on the bottom you could lay a couple pieces of 1x2 across the bottom and run aluminum foil to act as a ghetto heat shield. Might help direct the light upwards if you use the shinier side :^)
I'd be more concerned with tards knocking cups over and water/beer getting down in there. Might want to install a low amperage fuse somewhere in it if that's possible. More importantly, use some type of sealer around the edges and cracks, like rtv silicone.
I've been looking to make or buy a water pump, but I can't think of the name for the kind of thing i'm looking for, if there even is one:
I'm looking to make the water output from it arc out at a consistent distance, even if the input pressure varies. I'm looking to make the fountain work so if the water pressure is too high, it'll also come out a second nozzle and if it gets too low, pressure will build until it can be released, creating a pulsing effect.
>>915645
Let me try to understand better.
So you want 2 nozzles? One that if pressure builds too high it bursts out? And then another where if pressure is too low it shuts off until it reaches pressure again.
First off, a pump ideally maintains a constant pressure from a consistent supply(as in, there will always be fluid to pump). Most small pumps will burn out if they're running but nothing is being supplied. A pressure regulator on one nozzle will help it maintain a constant pressure. Before the regulator a pressure relief valve of some sort will help create the bursts, this will feed the second nozzle. I can't into fluid dynamics or hydraulic principle or whatever the hell we're dealing with here. But for it to work there must be a mismatch, with the pump supplying a pressure that is higher than the regulator is set to release, and the relief valve must have a release set to less than the pumps maximum output pressure before it either gives out or locks up from excessive back pressure.
But anyway, this is only something I'm familiar with from being around, not something I have any formal knowledge or experience in, but it's not a specific pump you're looking for, it's what you hook up on the discharge that'll get the result you're looking for.
>>915389
Still doesn't matter as much as looking clean.
>>915662
I can't into hydrodynamics either, but let's say I'm collecting water in a water storage tank and I want to stop the water/pressure level from getting too high, so I'll let some of the water out into a fountain.
I want the water to shoot-up part of the fountain, so it can't trickle out, having it shoot out in bursts until the pressure builds enough that it becomes a constant stream or cut off the nozzle if it gets too low. If the pressure builds even further a second nozzle starts to shoot in bursts while the pressure of the first remains the same. A 3rd, 4th, etc. nozzle could be added the same way.
So, I'm very new to DIY, I've never made anything before asking this question
But, how would someone make a Light doorbutton?
Basically, how can I install a button on my door and connects to a light in my room, that will light up if someone presses it.
>>915706
>Google and you shall find
>>915715
i tried to look it up but i guess I just didnt know enough.
i dont get this thing you posted
>>915718
That's what's known as a wiring diagram, the one he posted is a basic one. It's easy enough to figure out. Everything has 2 poles(positive and negative), power goes to one(positive) and leaves the other(negative). they're called electric circuits, they start at a power source and end at the power source, passing through components on the way, like a circle. In this diagram the power source is a battery. A "lamp" is the correct term used by electricians and electrical engineers to refer to a light source in a circuit, in your case it'll be a light bulb. A switch is something you've used a million times in your life, it's purpose is to open and close circuits. The switch in the diagram is open, you can tell because it's breaking the circuit, therefore not allowing power to pass through. If it were closed in the diagram(which usually they aren't) then it would be shown connecting the 2 sides instead of pointing off in a different direction. For your use you'll need a switch that opens the circuit when it's depressed(doors closed), and closes the circuit when's it's released(door open).
You have 2 types of switches; latching, where it holds it's position(like the kind you use to turn on the lights in your house), and momentary, like the ones on your Xbox controller that only work when you push them(unless they're sticking because of your Doritos fingers).
For your application, you need a momentary switch, that's normally closed, so when it's pressed it opens the circuit and stops sending power to the light.
>>915706
if your intention is to have a doorbell for deaf people, know that such things already exist for sale. they usually have 1 bright flashing light like in an ambulance. i say this because you dont sound very diy.
>>915577
>all metals oxidize
Not noble metals, unless you do unusual things to them. Gold is a well-known example, though iridium is the most inert.
>>915599
>If you cart it in on the hand truck it wouldn't be an issue.
Better yet, build a hand truck into it.
>>915681
So if this is a pressure relief device...
I propose something kind of like those rocking bamboo fountains. When the storage tank is full, have excess water overflow to a rocking tank. When that tank's water reaches a certain level, it tips and dumps its contents into a pipe that feeds the fountain. If you anticipate occasional very high flow that would saturate that part, you could have an overflow system for that too, etc.
>>915481
>(2) it doesn't have enough thermal mass, so as soon as you touch it to something, it cools down.
Is this only a problem when I'm attempting to touch the contact to heat it up, disrupt the circuit and push the hot tip against the solder? Because i was thinking about constantly holding the hot wire and the contact at opposite sides of the solder so the circuit is always closed and the wire will heat up constantly. Will it generate enough heat to maintain soldering temperatures or is the idea just really stupid?
Hi there,
I need a solid wood long plank, to make a support for a barbell.
I have instead two long weak timber planks (rectangular base) and three solid wood, shorter planks (square base).
I thought about making some sort of sandwich with them, screwing together the timber planks to the solid wood ones, making a longer, resilient plank. Is this a sound plan?
I need some reality check here, and advice about screwing them in. I'm a total newbie.
Thanks in advance.
>>915879
It is stupid because it doesn't have enough thermal mass, and doesn't have enough capacity to deliver enough watts to solder. It might get up to temperature, and it might be hot enough to melt solder, but once you touch it to a component, it needs to heat the compoment up and the temperature drops by like a hundred degrees. Then you need to sit there and wait for it to heat up again, but now you actually need to sit and heat up the whole board to do it.
https://youtu.be/vIT4ra6Mo0s?t=10m20s
Anon was right, using nichrome as a heating element turns the iron into a conductive heater.
A resistive heater heats up the two parts you're soldering.
What are good oscilloscopes in the 500 dollar price range?
Fresh pine wood I just stripped the bark off has this sap liquid coming out of it. Do I need to let it sit or dry somehow before whittling on it?
>>913837
overlay picutre
>>915445
I wouldn't say unevenly but the end pieces will be a different color than top pieces. A shellac or spit coat helps types of porous wood like pine not to soak up all of your stain
>>916328
I'm not sure what you're saying, do you have hardwood like oak and softwood like a pine 2x4? Are you going to say lay 2 planks down and place 3 on top?
Couple of things. Do you mean a barbell support like those U shapes picked that hold the bar above the bench? I'm not sure how a longer plank wlll help you with that.
But basically what you're asking about is laminating the boards. You'll want to use glue, screws alone can fail a lot quicker, especially with softwood. You'll be using the screws more for clamping the wood together while it cures then for holding it together. Would likes to glue with the end and edge grain. It doesn't like to glue at end grain or across the grain. What this means is 2 2x4s glued end to end won't want to hold, but a 2 2x4s side to side will. Also, 2 2x4s glued like and X won't want to hold either. It may work, but I wouldn't trust it.
I think you're talking about gluing a side face to a side face running parallel, if that's the case glue em and screw em.
That being said, I would not trust something like this for a barbell. It sounds incredibly janky, I would not trust 100+ lbs sitting over my head and neck supported by planks. You can go to the store right now and get some really solid 2x8s that'll work as a scaffold to support a fat man changing light bulbs, but I wouldn't trust that either. Wood flexes, bows, cracks, rots, splinters...screws pull out, and sometimes glue separates.
>>916472
You don't HAVE to , but you run the risk of sap running out of the piece if you don't, and you might get sticky while whittling. I don't know the time it takes to extract sap from wood but I think it's years naturally, or you have to heat dry it or something
>>916472
If you whittle it now it'll changes shape as it dries, and maybe crack. If you're doing it for fun or practice go ahead, if you're planning on creating an artistic piece that'll be with you for years, you'll want to let it dry. The rule of thumb is a a year per inch of thickness. Some people say 6 months is enough regardless of size. Some people say go to a sawmill with a kiln drier and pay them to use it. Some people say you can microwave it to dry it. Google for specifics.
hey DIY what is center jamb thing called? a Mullion?
Its flat the piece that's cracked and its screwed into the side of non-handeled (inactive side?) of a double french door. It has the two latches at top and bottom to let the inactive side swing free when needed , I think someone tried to break in and failed.
Anywho I was looking for a replacement and all the Mullions I can find don't have the latch parts, or are solid pieces of wood.
How would you go about laying an ethernet cable from the hallway where the fibermodem is in a closet to the living room?
There is a telephone connector in the wall where the cable needs to go. Can i pull trough an ethernet cable by pulling out the old telephone cable with the ethernet cable attached?
Also, how stable are these "wireless" internet adapters that use the power outlets? I need to run ethernet cable upstairs for the digital tv receiver.
>>916981
Pulling should work, assuming it's not stapled, even then depending on the staples they might just break off. if it's a straight shot with no insulation you may be able to use fish tape if pulling doesn't work. May be better to pull a thick string through(like twine) because it's more pliable, thinner, and easier to tie. An old electrician trick is to make a loop at the end of the original wire and another loop through whatever's being pulled and only tie the end of the loop tight with tape, that way it doesn't bind as easily.
If you have a crawlspace or unfinished basement you can just get a long drill bit of pulling and fishing fail.
>>916968
I believe the term is floating mullion, but I haven't done much work with doors. You probably won't be able to find a specific one cut to fit your setup, probably only a blank that can be cut to many different set ups. Is it wood? It looks like the inside of the crack is white, so I'm guessing plastic unless it was painted over. You may be able to just glue and clamp it.
>>916989
We do have a crawlspace, the previous owners drilled a hole trough the floor for a coax, about 30cm from the wall, on the pic you see the telephone socket on the wall and the hole in the floor for the coax.
How would you go about getting the cable from the crawlspace into the wall? The wall is stone
Thanks for the tip on the string, we used to strip the cables and intertwine them and lock them in by tape, and then pull the new cable in by pulling the old one out.
>>916999
The Wall on the outside is stone? The inside looks like drywall. You'll have a 2x4 frame behind the drywall. If that's the outlet you want to use I see some things that will help you.
First, I'm in the US, so I use that system and I'm familiar with that building style. You'll be able to look up your standards online though.
Studs are standardized to 16 inches apart on center. There is a channel created because of this that is used to run piping, wires, and insulation. The end of every stud starts a new channel. This will help you determine where to drill. The 2 outlets you have there are likely in different channels(hopefully, I've heard running cat 5 too close to electrical can cause interference). You can measure, if they're more than 14 inches apart they are.
The biggest help we have here is the radiator. It's piped through the floor, meaning you'll see that pipe in the crawlspace. You can effectively create a a square, measure parallel with the wall from the edge of the pipe to directly in front of the phone outlet, then from that exact point measure to the base of the wall. You can use a straight edge like a t square or 2x4 to help make sure you're not measuring at and angle.
You have your measurements, but there's an adjustment. The 2x4 used for the bottom plate is actually 3 and a 1/2 inches wide, and your drywall is likely half inch. So if you add 2 inches to the length that should plant you directly in the center of the bottom plate, at least width wise.
If you pull off the face plate for the box you may be able to tell which side of the stud it's mounted to. If you can, and say it's mounted to the left side of the stud, take a couple inches off the first measurement so you don't come up in the middle of a stud. If it's on the right add a couple inches.
This is assuming pulling it through doesn't work, that would be the best, and easiest method.
Okay, here's something.
I'm a carpenter, my step dad is an electrician. I want to add on to his work bench in his garage. I want to make a spot for him to store his shit. This dude has milk crates, cardboard boxes from Sam's club, these little white paper buckets, regular buckets... stuffed with all kinds of things from breakers, breaker boxes, to 6-2 romex to a least a dozen different style and size boxes. It looks like he filled 3 carts from the home depot electrical aisle full of whatever he could grab in 30 seconds.
Anyways, his birthday is coming up in February and I want to build an addition to his current work bench which already has spots for hand tools and power tools, as well as a surface for dicking around on. I can incorporate some other things into the existing bench if needed, but I want to incorporate spots for electrical outlets(kind of to show him that all years I held a light for him I was listening to what he was telling me, not just beating off and wishing I was playing video games), a fluorescent light over head, outlets for a power supply, and outlets for air(I'm getting him a compressor for his birthday). I'm also going to build speakers into the wall powered by a car stereo he bought for my 18th birthday. It's going to be really cool when it's done.
But anyways, I need ideas. I don't do electrical regularly, so I have no idea how these guys normally sort their supplies. I figure with the romex I'll start with peg board and put rolls on the wall, from 14-2 on the top left, to 14-3, all the way to 6-2 aluminum on the bottom right. And above that a rack for conduit
Then basically a chest of drawers. The left most 2 drawers that will take up a 5th of the width each with the right most drawer having a width 3 5ths(like black people in America). More likely 2 8 inch drawers and a 24 inch. Each can be a maximum of 20 inches long.
The left drawers will be for smaller things(obviously).
>>917306
The top tier will be a drawer of wire nuts and one of various other connectors. Next tier will be one of machine screws and one of self tappers. Bigger drawers will be for things like breakers and boxes. I'm thinking of making the drawer of face plates right next to the drawer of boxes, and possibly depending on room making a specific drawer for pvc boxes and a specific drawer for metal.
I just need to make sure everything has it's place, he can reorganize everything later if he wants.
I'm thinking about using those little metal brackets that you slip a cardboard label in because that's an old school style and he's an old school type of dude(that half open button up shirt chest hair shining led zeppelin listenin mother fucker).
Any electricians, what would you want on your dream bench? He does mostly residential and works mostly with 15 amp circuits, but he does do commercial sometimes and spent 17 years in industrial including steel mills and oil refineries.
For anyone interested in details it's all going to be construction grade lumber, nothing fancy so it's relatively cheap and matches the rest of the bench. Ply and 2x4s. Drawers are going to use waxed dovetail grooves unless I can find a good deal on ball bearing slides, with 1x6 for the face. I'm thinking about making the the slide portion of oak so they don't give out and I have some laying around anyways. Top will be 3/4 ply, thinking about having my gf wood burn it with something like an eagle or an american flag or his favorite handgun...whatever those old union dudes are in to. Main reason is if it's something he likes to look at it's less likely to become a catch all for whatever random shit he buys because it's on sale and he might need it 10 years down the road. Thinking about staining it to match the butt of his favorite rifle. He doesn't really use his bench to work on, just to hold the tools he's currently using. I'll make a thread when work starts on it.
I bought a Fold-a-Cover for my truck, second hand. It's comprised of trim that is adhered to the truck and panels that sit between the trim.
The trim pieces were originally adhered to the truck using what appeared to be some type of double-sided foam tape or weatherstripping, that was about 2 inches wide, 1/8 inch thick. I was going to used 3M's Extreme Mounting tape, which may only be 1/16th inch thick. Does it need the thicker foam?
>>916543
Thanks for the answer.
I should have made a drawing to start with. It would be used for squatting, so I wouldn't leave the barbell there all the time.
I'm trying to use available materials, but getting a full piece of solid would might be a much better idea.
The reason I want a longer beam is because the inner ones are too short and inappropriate for a squat 'rack'.
Please, look at the picture and let me know if all your advice holds, or if you want to add/change anything. Thanks again.
The black planks are from a soft wood. The brightly colored ones are solid wood, but are three pieces and too short for this application.
I would probably heed your advice and get a beam of solid wood instead (I'm still stuck at lower weights), but this might be good for practice and to keep me squatting until I can go for the beam.
One more thing. I'm using a manual saw. I traced over the wood, made an initial dent with a knife and started sawing from there.
I can't follow the traced line. Even worse, I seem unable to correct the trajectory, as the saw blade is already fitted in the sawed path.
How do I improve at sawing? Even JC would spit on me after seeing my work.
>>917477
I don't think I'd trust that. My major concern, the 3 pieces are joined on end grain. Any extreme force may allow them to flex or even snap. The 2 outside pieces will help resist that, but I wouldn't trust it. This has a similar design to my saw horse, which are really solid. Pic related is the same style. Those are just construction grade 2x4s, it's pine. If you move the center piece to the edge it should work, in the picture it's centered. Wood glue and deck screws. I'm not sure of your size constraints, that might be too bulky.
>>917483
First off what kind of saw are you using? The wrong saw could make it more difficult than it needs to be, causing you to exert more force. With an increase in force exerted there's a reduction in accuracy. For this, since it just needs to be straight, not pretty, the less teeth you have on your saw the faster it will cut. Body position helps too. You want the piece to be elevated to comfortable level(usually above your waste but below your chest), with the larger side of the wood resting on a bench or table or something. I'm right handed, so I want to stand to the left of the cut, with my arm perpendicular to the cut. The big thing is experience, the more you do it the better you get.
What I would do, with limited tools and doing the saw horse idea.
Get 2 2x4s
Line them up so the ends of them are even at one side
Measure from the even side to the length I want on the finished piece
Make a mark on both boards at the same length
Use a piece of scrap, straight wood to make my starightline(try your best to make it 90 degrees)
Proceed to cut
You'll have 2 boards that are cut very closely
Take the other half of one of the 2x4s you just cut
Place it between the 2 you just cuts, with all the edges that you didn't cut lined up
Using the cuts you just made as reference mark the cut on the final board.
You'll have 3 very close boards, when you assemble have all cut edges on one side, and all uncut on the other.
>>917508
Also, take the remaining 2x4, wrap it in barbed wire, and start wearing a read flannel jacket. Become Mick Foley
I had to chop down a cherry because of some house expansions and i have a log thats about 1m long and 25-30cm in diameter. How long would it need to dry considering it's winter so it's not that wet. Still not sure what to do with it. Maybe a coffe table though i'd have to piece together multiple parts so i'm not sure what it would look like. But i've never worked with cherry i'm not even sure about the hardness.
>>917562
Cherry is harder to work than pine, but much much easier to work than oak. As a solid log it'll take at least a year to dry so that it's workable. If you wait a month and get it milled you might be able to get away with 6 months. You'll need to get it planed after, assuming you don't have a planer, and work quickly after that because it'll start to cup soon after.
>>913242
remote detonations of explosives will get your website lot's of attention.
So I'm new to electronics, and recently my PS3 wouldn't stay on, it would start and right as it's booting up, the light indicator blinks yellow and it turns off. Is there any way to fix it, without sending it in? I'm sorry if this is the wrong thread, I'm new to 4chan. Thanks for any help.
![Tin-Whiskers[1].jpg](https://i.imgur.com/4hR8xlU.jpg "Tin-Whiskers[1].jpg")
>>917643
Well, I just remembered why I hate working on PS3s.
https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/Yellow+Light+of+Death+Repair/3654
Yellow-light-and-off is the PS3's version of the RROD. It's got the same root cause: poorly-understood lead-free solder technology causing the BGA chips to crawl off the board and/or the BGA balls to grow whiskers and become one glorious whole.
>>917655
Thank you!
>>915623
If you're using LEDs (why wouldn't you) heat shouldn't be a big issue as long as they're not against the plexi. To be safe, you could make some aesthetically pleasing vents and cover them with a sheet metal grate of some kind, perhaps the heat would build up more than I would think.
With RGB LED sources, you could also add a controller to make some really splashy light effects during games.
>>915631
Maybe frosted plexi would be better? Aesthetically too, you don't want to see the illuminators.
Also, plexi is rather brittle and expensive, it'd be a shame to spend 250 bucks for a 4x8 sheet and then have it shatter when your drunk friend leans too hard on it.
I have a remote control dimmer switch.
>long room, far side light on wall, near side ceiling fan and light.
I have 2 light switches and a 1 fan switch.
It does the whole both switches are up, the light is on, one is up and one is down the light is off.
How is that going to affect the functionality of the dimmer, will it even work at all?
>>918732
Whoops, im only trying to get the ceiling light to dim.
Not sure why I included the far side light on the wall, that has its own two switch circuit.
Who has experience ordering custom PCBs, and where did you order yours from? I'm likely only going to need a 2-layer pcb. I made a 1-layer out of my initial design, but a 2-layer will make things much easier.
The majority of the places I've seen prefer to sell in bulk, but I'm only doing this as a personal project, so I'll be fine ordering 2 or 3.
>>918766
Oshpark
>>918781
Looks like a pretty good deal, but I need a pretty large PCB. I'm going for around 300 x ~120mm, which would come out to nearly $300. There's gotta be something more economical for small orders. I may just have to try my hand and making my own. I was hoping to find something around $80 for a single board, but I guess that is pushing it pretty far.
I can understand price hikes for individual boards rather than batch orders, especially for large fab plants and manufacturing facilities, it just seems like there would be some enthusiast out there who has better tools that I do and would be willing to sell their services.
>>918803
Oh, that's pretty big. Look at Seeedstudio or Itead, cheap boards from China with good-enough quality.
