Im doing a live edge black walnut coffee table. I've got a 74"x20"x2" slab that still needs to dry (pic related). Is there a way to tell how long I should let it dry for? A month? A year? I literally have no bearing on this sort of thing.
Why'd you buy a green slab? Shit can take years to dry properly. Rush it and it'll crack and you'll be screwed.
>>908517
It was cheap as all get out.
>>908526
Aren't they cheap because they haven't gone through the potential failure of drying, storage, or milling?
If you want it done within your lifetime, see if you can find a local mill that has a kiln and kiss their ass and/or pay for their expertise so you don't ruin it. Drying properly is tricky.
>>908534
What was the point of this post?
You want him to pay premium price for already cured lumber well give him the damn money and get off of /DIY/.
OP I would just sit on it for a while until the surface seems workable. A 2 inch slab shouldn't take too long to dry depending on the environment.
I have had 6" mahogany slabs that I turned into coffee tables less than 2 weeks after cutting with no checking or anything.
The critical part is how simple your stand/legs are as any uneven shrinkage can throw out an intricate design. I just put them on simple legs but these are generally smaller than what you have there.
A cheap moisture meter would go a long way but the old rule is one year of drying per inch. Id stack it up in my attic for 6 months and call it good.
>>908589
The old rule is 1 year per inch of thickness, so 2 years. HOWEVER, the old year assumes storing it outside out of the rain, exposed to exterior humidity and temperature, so really it may take only 3-6 months.
When it stops getting lighter or the moisture meter says it's down to 5% or 6%, you should be good.
But yeah, >>908551 can work well. An old woods furniture trick is to make a stool top out of green wood and the legs out of dry wood, so as it dries it clamps down on the legs because the holes you chiseled/drilled out for them shrink too. if the top doesn't split then 6 months later once it's definitely done shrinking you cut a little off all the legs to make sure it's level and you have a stool with no glue that's rock solid.
>>908515
Just build a small kiln. I piece of plywood court to fit.
Heat with electric heater to 140 F
Vent with a small fan to remove moist air
Moisture meter to 7%-11% then done.
It's not that hard.
It will develop cracks and checks out the ass unless you kiln dry it, 95% guaranteed.
>>908772
Charlie likey
Kiln drying black walnut often causes the colors to wash out (still that is probably the best bet for preventing checks and cracks).
If you aren't going to kiln dry (or its going to be a while before you do), seal the ends with paraffin wax as soon as you can. Paraffin on the ends slows moisture escape meaning the wood will shrink more uniformly. Non-uniform shrinkage is what causes cracks.
Make sure to place it on stickers rather than just a garage shelf. Stickers allow air circulation, again promoting even moisture escape and shrinkage.
Place more stickers on top, add more lumber for weight to help prevent warping. But be aware that you'll get some warping so you'll have to plane again before use.
>>908515
Matt Cremona has a couple of videos about drying your own lumber. His channel is a great source for that sort of information.
Check it out.
https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCDpL0v-Ifie7u05lbfO3zJQ
Not OP but would you guys sand and stain live edge wood if it was something like ash or cherry but you didn't like the colour? Or would that be committing some kinda cardinal sin?
>>911853
Yes, what is the point of having something you don't like.
Also live edge tables are shit and for hipsters with no wood working skills.
Have a nice day!
>>909190
I concur. I have some billets cut out of a naturally dried piece and the colors are vivid compared to kiln dried stuff. A year per inch is typical.
>>911853
Ash and cherry as somewhat muted color wise.
>>908515
Closer to the pith of a tree, the more likely it will crack/check. Same goes for too thin and wide of a piece with the grain going like ////////////// across the board.
I'd say lay it flat across a floor in a garage. propped up underneath with some scraps so air gets to both sides.
don't worry about cracking too much. some Epoxy or bowties can fix a developed crack