![IMG_20151119_120340[1].jpg](https://i.imgur.com/wBJTFAe.jpg "IMG_20151119_120340[1].jpg")
This hole and 2 more about the same size are in the mini ramp at my local skate park. I'm not the diy type so I went to home depot and talked with someone who knew as little as I did and ended up buying wood filler which I used to fill one. I think I fucked up, I did it tonight and I will go back tomorrow to see how good it is, but it doesn't look good at all, and I think it will wear away easily.
What would you guys do to fix these holes? It would need to withstand skateboard wheels riding over it and also be able to withstand rain and snow. Any Ideas?
Best bet would be to fill with epoxy, but you will have to clean the filler out. For a really good repair, fill with epoxy, then add a new board over the top. If you dont fill with epoxy first, it will leave a weak spot and you will go thru the new top board. Epoxy is the way to go, you are right, wood filler will mush the first rain.
>>904194
Alright, thanks for the help
>>904194
If I wanted to add more wood to the top, I would have to cut out the bad wood first right? How would I do that?
It's a public park so I wouldn't want to do anything too crazy. We've told the parks department about it but I guess they have bigger fish to fry
I'm doing a lot of googling and youtubing and It seems like I wouldn't need to put wood over the top, because the epoxy would act like wood
>>904192
why not concrete patch over the thing?
>>904262
Because it would be concrete on wood. And the this amount of concrete on a flexing surface would crack and break apart.
OP, you can use epoxy, but for a hole of that size youll use a lot.
Personally if it were me I would cut a square out of the top layer of ply sheething around the hole. Then cut a patch out of some replacement and screw it down with some stainless deck screws. Possibly mixing up some epoxy or plenty of construction adhesive to really bind it down.
>>904284
The reason I would do the patch instead of the epoxy is for continuity of texture. I dont know much about skateboarding, but i would be concerned about wheels slipping on a smooth epixy surface compared to the wood
Use an epoxy, and a piece of card to wipe it until it's flush.
a good, multi purpose filler will do the job. Smear it in and sand it afterwards.
Get some that you have to mix with a hardener manually. The stuff i have at home dries in 20 minutes.
Apologies if this sounds vague, but i dont know what it is called in english.
You can you all of the epoxy and filler you want but they will all fail.
The beast way to fix they the void is to make a Dutchman. Pic related. Google for more info
You will need some wood to the same thickness as the void and large enough to cover the void
A sharp wood chisel
A mallet to hit the chisel
Wood glue, exterior grade if the ramp is outside
I would use a knife to trace the patch because the trace line is exact.
>>904285
Dust it with a little sand before it dries?
>>904346
Sand is still a different texture than the existing surface. A smooth path may cause a wheel to slip, but a rough patch may catch it, or worse act as sandpaper on a knee sliding over it.
Hi! The problem is that you need to have a proper application of force to the patched area. Filler, epoxy and such will not work alone. You need glass fiber for additional surface reinforcement. I have some (well, a lot) of experience using such materials due to being an RC plane enthusiast since '93, so listen close.
The brown stuff is the wood, the yellow is epoxy filler, the green is glass fibre (s overlapping sheets) and the red one is plastic film (from a plastic bag).
What you need is basically a good epoxy with no less than 60min cure time meant for laminating, and a bit of glass fibre with no less than 160-200g/m2.
Sand the area around the hole to enable the epoxy to stick. Mix the epoxy carefully with the proper weight ration, and stir it thoroughly. This is important. Then use a bit of sponge rubber in a clothespin as a brush and apply a thin layer of epoxy in the hole and 5cm around the hole edges. Put some epoxy aside, and mix it with a filler, I prefer a thickening agend and glass fibre powder, but dry sawdust will work as well. Sand does not. Mix until you have a really thick paste, and fill the hole with it. Then cut a sheet of glass fibre that overlaps the holes edges by 2cm, and laminate it on again using the sponge brush thing and the origianl epoxy. Cut a second sheet overlapping by 4cm and laminate it on as well. When done, take the plastic film and press it on. This makes a nicer surface of the whole area. Let dry for 24h, preferrably at high temperatures. This repair will structurally be as good as it gets.
>>904363
It would have to be pretty slick to cause any traction problems. As long as it's less slick than say glass it would be okay.
>>904192
You'd need a really good key to prevent the epoxy from coming loose.
Personally I'd epoxy with some really good shit. A two part epoxy putty would be my first choice.
Then I'd drill the epoxy and shamfer the holes with a countersink. Then drive wood screw through the epoxy into the wood.
Or even put in some screws with the heads proud, but under the level of the wood for some more grippage.
pic related
>>904365
This sounds like the best solution, but again, it is at a public park so I don't want to make a project out of it. I'm sure the city wouldn't want a random person making modifications to the ramps for insurance reasons, even if it's for the better.
fucking just use sheet metal and screw it to the fucking thing, you probably wont even need to fill the void depending on the size of the whole, its metal it will hold and if you get it at home depot or lowes its galvanized and will resist rust. probably easy enough that the scooter fags that go to the park could to it themselves
>>904198
Call city and ask how much you can sue for a broken nose. They'll fix it fast.
>>905691
This is the kind of solution that makes cities remove ramps and the like, or not get them in the first hand.
>>905691
>Random person gets hurt because stupid
>Hurr durr go to court!
Way to go 'murrica
Go to a hobby store and get a big bottle of super thin viscosity CA (super) glue.
Dump a bunch on top of the wood filler. The filler will wick it in and harden real nice, and also be waterproof. Enjoy.
>>906048
I should have noted, the filler needs to be dry and cured.
After the glue itll be as hard as any solid hardwood.
Sawdust and Titebond wood glue m8.
Mix together to form a Bondo like consistency.
Just make sure to do it on a day when it's not raining.
Op here, The overall consensus is to use epoxy, which will have to wait until spring, because right now it's cold and snowy. Thanks for all the help, maybe I will post once it's done, but please don't post any more for I am abandoning the thread.
