no shame self bump

>>899527
/diy/ is very slow. You don't need to bump your thread. It will last over a week even if nobody bumps it.

Nobody wants your money

fucking google it

>>899529
>OP here.
>Damn thanks for that info. But im sure some people do.
>And I have "fucking googled it"
>I can find the parts but its very hard understanding the conversions
>Especially with no DYI experience i usually browse /b?
>This is DYI....so fuck you for even saying that faggot.
>If it were so easy then why don't you google it and ill gladly give you the 60 bucks.

>>899534
For someone browsing /b/ regularly you are awful at greentexting.
Also >>899529 is right, we don't want your money and the first approach in this board should always be to inform yourself, then you can always ask for help that is why he has the right to say that.

You can always just look up the datasheet aswell.
This is "Do it yourself" and not "Do it for me fag"...

start with heat transfer
calculate the area of oil and area of pan in contact with air.
find thermal properties of the 3 mediums and calculate the heat loss at the oil target temperature. assume pan to be about the same
then you get the power lost from the system to the outside.
thats the value you need to meet to keep it at that temperature, ideally you want it to be a little higher i guess

the voltage is not really a factor other than matching a suitable source. the power (watts, w) gives you an idea of the temperature but its a little more complicated, a big high wattage one won't necesarily be hotter than a small low wattage one, you need to maximise power per area to maximise temperature.

also you will need a thermocouple and importantly a pid controller to turn the heater on and off as required. without a pid controller the temperature will be unstable it will 'ring'. by how much depends on the system but thats a little out of scope so better safe than sorry

best metal for conduction? silver is pretty good, copper, gold, aluminium, iron, steel. in that order are the most common.

power source? will its 12v at 300w so you need 25A which is quite a lot but nothing to say a car battery.

>wireless
you need some wires otherwise it wont work.

best idea is to just buy a secondhand hotplate, a science one where you can set the temperature. since you aren't from around here i don't expect any buyfag backlash. the only reason i gave you the info was because i expect once you read it you will probably give up and stop asking questions that most people here would consider elementary. not that i personally have a problem with you.

keep the money. buy a hotplate or put yourself through college.

>>899534
>>This is DYI....so fuck you for even saying that faggot.

The spirit of doing it yourself is actually doing it yourself, not paying someone else to do the work for you.f

This isnt the "create and design a project for the 15 year old OP" board

>>899526
Hey OP. I know exactly what power and wattage you need to apply. And as for your temperature gauge... no problem at all, pretty simple stuff.

Now here's what I want you to do, take your 60 bucks (making sure they are separate unmarked $1 bills ofcourse) and stick them up your asshole. Now if they don't fit, get a pencil or a sharpie and just shove it in there, take a picture of that with a timestamp ofcourse (protip: Use a mirror, because its not easy to take a picture of your bumhole) and post it here so that I can give you exactly what you want.

Deal?

>>899526
(random thoughts, for free)
1)...how big is "a small metal pot"? that doesn't really say much. It would help more to show pictures of what you want to heat, or describe it a lot better.
2)...heating elements normally have a wattage rating, and a maximum temperature rating. The kitchen deep fryer I have is about 1500 watts IIRC, but it only gets used at 425 F max, and the heating elements it uses are typically good for up to at least 1400F....
3)..."best metal for even conduction"? aluminum is the easy answer,,, but once again, it's not clear what you re trying to heat up

4) what power source to use--this depends on how many volts the heating element you buy needs to run the current it takes, to reach a useful output. you can always run a higher-voltage heating element at a lower voltage (and current). Heating elements normally benefit from an active controller, one that turns them off and on automatically to maintain a target temperature. If you just run the heater at 100%, it either takes a long time to heat up (if it's low-wattage) or it gets WAY hotter than you want (if it's high-wattage)...

5) wireless w/battery? this is a whole separate project on its own. Running heating elements takes a relatively large amount of power. Also the entire control scheme of how you want to wirelessly control this thing comes into play. (can you program PCs/android/iPhone/whatever at all?)

It's not hardly impossible, there's multiple people around here who can point to the parts you'd need to do it,,, but you need to be more clear on exactly what you want.

>>899537
>>899534
>For someone browsing /b/ regularly you are awful at greentexting.

looking back at all the times I posted drunk on /diy/ and never received this comment from fellow posters. Feels pretty good mang. I felt retarded but atleast I was understood.

>>899526
What are you trying to do with it?
Sounds kinda sketchy

>>899582
OP said it right in the first post. He needs to heat some shit, ie. shove it up his butt.

>>899582
My guess is portable oil heater to throw at enemies, or since it's wireless, possibly some arson contraption.

Nominating this thread for the >>>/trash/can

>>899526
toss the silicone heater
buy a small deep fryer from Walmart
buy a ir thermometer or candy thermometer.
fucking done

>>899694
Nominating for Golden Sharpie award. Hearing what the task/project is is usually the most interesting part. Assuming we are all whoo'ers and offering $20, that's harsh.