SO, I happen to have a JET J-720R.
>http://www.jettools.com/us/en/p/j-720r-3-arm-radial-drill-press-230-460v/320033
I'm an idiot though so I have no idea what sort of vice will fit the damn thing.
it sits very sexily and glares at me for using 2"X4"s and clamps in lieu of a proper vice.
what reasonably priced vice can I get for it?
also
MACHINING GENERAL, WHAT ARE YOU GUYS MAKING?
>LET THE CHIPS FLY!
currently using this at school
http://en.dmgmori.com/products/milling-machines/universal-milling-machines/dmu/dmu-50
id's breddy cool, although the heidenhein control makes me rage sometimes
http://www.use-enco.com/CGI/INSRIT?PARTPG=INLMKD&PMPXNO=3463215&PMAKA=890-8817
>>890891
You can use any sort of machinist vise. I'd get a 6-inch angle-lock Kurt style. Also you could just use a hold-down kit.
That thing isn't really for machining though.
>>890923
so there's no weird table specifications that I need to worry about?(yeah, told you I was an idiot...)
great...
>>890923
>Kurt style.
http://www.kurtworkholding.com/manual-vise-opening-p-1205-l-en.html
$600 for a vice?
is this a normal price?
>>890907
confirmed german or dutch
>>890932
confirmed failure, finnish actually
>>890928
$600 is normal for a 6" Kurt vise.
There is other ones that are decent for around $400 for a 6" vise. Enco has a TECO for that much.
Kurt isn't the absolute best either--but significantly better ones cost a lot more.
The cheaper ones tend to lift, due to poor casting and finishing.
Sometimes you can cure the poor casting issue (the surfaces of the hold-down wedge) but they still lack stiffness in the vise base. And they aren't milled as flat/straight as the good brands either.
If that matters or not, is up to you.
If you regularly work in sub-.001" precision, then it will probably matter. (generally you don't do that on any drill press...)
If you don't, get a bigger cheap one and don't tighten it real hard. (...I am not a professional machinist, but online I've seen people with some seriously-tired mills who went and dropped $600 for a Kurt, thinking it would do something magical...)
>>890928
thats a price for a milling vice, still rather cheap. The hydraulic vices go for 2k+
these clamp with a high repeateability.
depending on what you want to drill, get a vice accordingly
https://www.machinemart.co.uk/shop/search/filter/drill-press-vices/type/any/module/shopcategory/page/1
>>890938
fugg, my old school in holland had a deckel with heidenhain aswell. i found workshop programming kinda tricky at start, but its really easy and fun after a while. also good choice on your study, machinist life best life
>>890948
yeah programming with heidenhain is really simple and fast once you get hang of it, but the thing that makes me rage sometimes is that the control has been translated quite poorly to finnish, propably by someone who doesn't know anything about machining related stuff
>>890891
What type of work do you plan on using it for? Work size? Work shape? Accuracy wanting to be achieved. That would help on any advice on what kind of work holding solutions you may want to look into.
But to answer your question any vice made for a bench press or milling machine will work. You just have to figure out how to do it. I would suggest to look for vises that can accept at least 5/8 diameter bolt because your table has 3/4 t-nut slots. And I think 3/4 t-nuts come standard in 5/8-11. I usually make my own as needed and use whatever specs suit my needs.
>>890891
>it sits very sexily and glares at me for using 2"X4"s and clamps in lieu of a proper vice
I'm guessing these camps are C-clamps? A good toe clamping set may suit all your needs. Also you will need one with 3/4 t-nuts
>>890891
http://www.use-enco.com/CGI/INSRIT?PMAKA=425-7261&PMPXNO=952374&PARTPG=INLMK32
and a clamp kit
just breaking shit
>>891034
>What type of work do you plan on using it for?
drilling holes in things and enlarging holes in other things.
>Work size?
2"X4"X8' steel bars/tubing
>Accuracy wanting to be achieved.
not very much, a dozen thousandths either way is technically acceptable.
>your table has 3/4 t-nut slots
THANK YOU
finally a lead on the information I was actually looking for. like I said, I know basically nothing of machining except the people capable of it are predominantly awesome.
it's going in a shop where we'll have to mount and dismount the vice on a regular basis to stop the welders from drilling straight through work-pieces and into the vice/table are t-nuts easy to change/remove?
>I'm guessing these camps are C-clamps?
nope
adjustable length screw-clamps
>pic related
>>891166
what were you cutting?
>>891263
>are t-nuts easy to change/remove?
yes, they simply slide into the tee-slots in the table, the tee nuts move freely in the slots.
then you use a clamping kit to clamp materiel to the table.
Recently seen the Jet brand, kinda intrested about their lathes,anyone got some experience working them?
I do like their colour palette, but function over asthetics anyday
>>891263
>what were you cutting?
Heat treated 95510 bronze.
>>891369
ive used a couple smaller jet lathes in shops that i worked in. one was old green, about 16" swing. and the other was a newer white one about 12". i have no complaints about either. they were accurate enough for the job shops i was working in. nothing fancy or special. also i own a small jet mill, the power switch broke on that after 8 years, took ages to get a replacement. had it rigged with 2 hd wall switches in the mean time. no other problems.
>>890891
so tell us,,,, how the fuck did you end up owning a monstrous $12K drill press?
>>891369
>Recently seen the Jet brand, kinda intrested about their lathes,anyone got some experience working them?
Jet is said by many to be the best of the Taiwan brands for small/medium manual machinery. If you compare a Jet item with a similar size machine from Grizzly or anywhere else, the Jet will cost more but is finished nicer and may have a few more features.
If you are concerned about parts breaking, among the cheaper import machines Grizzly is said to have the best support.
Exactly the thread I was searching for.
JET lathes are shit, compared to other heavy metal brands. I have one that is ~5 years old, I completely rebuilt and restored it, and let me tell you, the build quality is questionable. Tonight the gearbox jammed up too, and god knows I'll have to take it apart to find out why. 3/10, wouldn't buy again, but if you can get one used and working and for a low price, good place to start.
If you want a MINI lathe, I myself am looking at Sherline. Recommended by both hobbyists and a professional (my boss, been in the game for a fair while) You can get a look at it in the videos on the youtube page Clickspring, if you're okay watching all that footage for the few small shots it appears in....
OP, anything that holds the work down without it moving is good enough. If its not good enough, cut slower. If you want your part to not move much (another anon called it repeatability) when you clamp, figure out how to use a dial indicator to properly index your part. since you index after you clamp, movement caused by claiming method is irrelevant.
>>891631
>so tell us,,,, how the fuck did you end up owning a monstrous $12K drill press?
craigslist...also I think you added a zero...
>>891649
>If you want a MINI lathe,
as in a desk-top one? yes, I would like one of those.
>OP, anything that holds the work down without it moving is good enough.
yes, but nothing really does. at least, nothing that isn't immediately destroyed by a welder.
>>891722
>>>891631 (You)
>>so tell us,,,, how the fuck did you end up owning a monstrous $12K drill press?
>craigslist...also I think you added a zero...
I clicked the (#2) Amazon link on the 'online retailers' page and it showed that a new one costs $12K
and now I clicked the first link (Southern Tool) and they list it for $12K also. So for a new one, it would cost a lot of money.
Even used--even most machinist guys would tell you that radial drills are not exactly normal home-level equipment...
Some people unfamiliar may not get the size scale from OP's picture----but this model is 7 feet tall, rated for drilling holes up to 1.5" in mild steel, and it weighs 2700 lbs
pic related: here is some stubby 1.5" drills at MSC, costing between $100 and $200 *each*... most places that make drill bits this big don't even give prices online, because it's industrial-sized stuff and you order them through sales reps that come visit you
>>891166
Are we related?
>>891737
>not exactly normal home-level equipment...
small business shop.
and it really only cost us $1200 plus shipping (Oklahoma to South Texas)
>big drills
part of why I want a vice. I snapped a 1-3/16" bit in half when my work-piece moved.
and the welders just clamp it down real tight with whatever they have at hand and set the auto-feed to MAXIMUM DRILL SPEED when they need to cut a hole and everything works out just fine.
it pisses me off something fierce..
Thinking of taking a CNC machinist course at local college should i do it?
>>891755
yes
>>891272
dont know why but this is sexy..
still clipping along on these 30 year old monsters
>tfw maybe one day the shop will upgrade to something from this decade
>>892115
buying a machine costs money, using the old one makes money.
although, if i were you i would accidentally crash it. g0 into the chuck at max rpm
>>892211
It wouldn't be so bad if they held tolerance
>go from 2" OD to 4" OD you'll get sizes jumping .010 in either direction
As far as crashing them, they are lathes from the 50s retrofitted with consoles and slides from the 80s so even when we do crash them they are just fine
>>892115
Maybe one of the cleanest machine shop floors I have seen. And cleanest lathe I have seen. I looks like you are machining cast or a ductile type of material ( presume this by how the chips look). If so I know it really isn't that clean. Machining ductile is comparable working in a coal mine..... you have a fine layer of dust everywhere.
>>892253
back when they made shit to last.
used USSR made drills from an unsorted box last summer. better than most other drills i've used, they dug into it like i was drilling chocolate.
>>890891
Is thing worth $1200? I see it having a very high potential for being useful, but I kind of want an opinion from a community of people who are more familiar with this than myself.
>>891369
That looks like it might be identical to the old colchester lathe I use at work. The control layout and everything look identical.
If it is, and it;s been made to a decent quality, it's a very good lathe.
>>893369
It's preform tungesten carbide.. It's pretty dirty but we try and keep our shit tidy
>>893829
Its worth it if you need $1200 worth of holes drilled more accurately than you could do by hand or is out of reach of a standard drill press.
Protip: Look up annular cutters, they are god's drill bits.
>>894109
One thing I did see it being useful for, even though I'm not really into guns all that much is that I could buy the other parts separate use it for grinding/drilling the lower receiver then sell tagless weapons to authorized brokers or shops (who would then tag them for legal reasons) for dirt cheap but still make maintain a small profit margin. I need to do more research but I'm pretty sure by buying parts individually and assembling them myself I end up paying quite a bit less money than if I purchase a fully assembled gun.
>>893829
>>894449
Sort of related question:
What's the ruling on 80% lowers, are they simply not considered weapon parts or is there a special exception; seems like there could be money to make in making the lowers themselves.
I ask because in bongistan, anything that could be considered part of an ar15 is not going to be easily exportable
>>891755
YES! Take CAD first so you think in CAD. I took CNC first and would have benefited greatly from learning CAD beforehand. Most college machining courses have manual machining integrated with CNC courses for reasons you will see and appreciate.
It is all huge fun.
>>894109
>Protip: Look up annular cutters, they are god's drill bits.
Yes they are, and you can buy or easily modify an existing arbor to run them.
>>894449
If you create finished receivers you get to comply with ATF laws or go to the graybar hotel. Every yokel and his yokel brother wants to mill "paperweights" into receivers. No margin left except custom work in that game.
>>891755
Take a manual machining course first if you have no experience. You will learn great skills especially in a college level. Then after that you can learn some g-code and get into cnc or continue into more schooling...
My college degree consisted mostly half and half of manual and CNC. The CNC was stricly writing g-code from scratch and to do that to need to know what to tell the machine to do logically. Never got into cad as my first job was as a manual machinist and just fell into it. Bosses bring you problems to solve.... mostly from the cnc dept. you are an asset if you can do it well. If you just want to just learn as a hobby fine, but I have a degree but I learned more in my first 6 months on the job.
You do not want to be a button pusher
>>894449
You can buy a complete ar for $500
>>894768
You can finish receivers for your own use but you cant construct them to sell them.
>>893829
I'd like to know more about this as well. It seems like it could be a pretty good low cost option for a cnc mill, but I haven't heard anything about anyone using them for anything other than finishing 80% receivers.
>>895347
You can build a complete AR for 300+the lowest cost you can pay for a receiver. Free, assuming you get a free block of metal, steal your bits, steal your neighbors electricity, and work on it during work hours.
>>894066
I'm interested in the process... Im guessing you machine it to spec and then it is baked in a form? I know even cutting HSS with tungsten carbide is a bitch. I couldn't even imagine cutting TC with TC. Im guessing it is not in harded state when you machine it or you use maybe ceramic inserts?
>>894539
This is not legal advise but I have looked into this. Legally you can build your own gun in the USA as long as the gun you built complies to a gun you could legally purchase. You are the only one that can use that gun and the only one to have it in your possession. You cannot sell it. You may be able to lend it but im not sure about the law.
Pretty much if you are worried about SHTF senario buy 80% lowers and don't do anything with them. You usually can buy a completed lower for the same price and you could build your ar. If SHTF and you can't buy a lower anymore you have those 80% lowers to widdle at. But you still need an upper. and if you cant buy a lower anymore I don't see uppers being plentiful. Just buy a cheap lower to build your gun and start saving up for a better high quality lower, Once you get that you can sell it or use it as a base for another rifle you want to build.
>>896768
it is machined before it is baked, the material shrinks when it is baked (usually around 13%) so we have to take our final measurements and use a formula to find the machining sizes so that they come out of the furnace at final dimensions, its the consistency of chalk when we machine it, so its pretty easy to work with but it chips like crazy, we can take about an inch off at a time on a lathe, but radius' and angles can blow out and ruin a part pretty easily. its night and day from hard metal
Got an Emco PC Mill 50 sitting in my garden, waiting for me to clear my shed and then convert it to more modern internals. Not the exact one in the photo, mines a bit rusty and beat up but at least it was free.
>>897228
AutoCAD or Solidworks would be my first choice.
Failing that, free stuff is:
Autodesk Fusion360
Google Sketchup
Draftsight
But honestly, unless the part is complicated, he should be able to follow a hand drawn sketch as long as all the dimensions are there.
Also be aware that material comes in sizes (if your in the US, it comes in fractional sizes, 1/4, 3/8, 1-1/2, etc.)
So when you specify something as 0.780" Diameter as largest diameter of the part... he has to start with 1.00" stock and turn the whole thing down....costs time and money. His time, your money.
>>890907
wtf do you have in school
we have an fake dremel tool in a diy plexiglas cabinet controled with nccad7 from an old pc
Any place to get cracked copies of Mastercam Router? I'd like to tinker with it outside of work.
I'm on a bunch of private trackers but all they have are the Solidworks plugins.
>>897299
>So when you specify something as 0.780" Diameter as largest diameter of the part... he has to start with 1.00" stock and turn the whole thing down....costs time and money. His time, your money.
what kind of poorfag doesn't have hundreds of stock each in 0.125" increments from 1/8 to 8"?
>>898675
the kind that doesn't usually do their own machining?
>>898667
We have two DMU50's (one capable of 3+2, the other one configured for 5-axis-simul), five DMC635's and five CTX alpha 300's at school, as well as a buttload of Weiler Praktikant VC lathes and a buttload of FPS 300 M milling machines. All CNC HMI's are Siemens btw. version numbers varying from 4.5 to 7.5 which can get pretty annoying if you want to transfer a program from one to another machine
>WHAT ARE YOU GUYS MAKING
A TANK
>>900445
DAT RECESS FOR BEARING FLANGE :D
>>900447
Did dem plates today with a Fadal CNC mill
>>900448
Some CO2 brass cannon valve diddelydoo
btw op where did you get the drill? Just wondering how you have a big ass drill but dont know about vice
>>900450
Oh never mind, read your post >>891263
>>900468
Because its awesome.
I havent seen anyone build one before.
Has lots of turret space for epic gun.
And most importantly, because of Soviet Russia.
I just messed up an inside thread on a aluminium part on a CTX alpha 300 today by forgetting that Siemens wants the Rated diam. (M30x1.5) minus the thread depth *2 (0.81mm*2) instead of just the rated diameter. Luckily except for a nice screeching noise whilst cutting a thread at 1.5mm/R at 1000rpm at a depth of around .6 mm and a chowdery surface nothing happened. I'm going to record some videos tomorrow when we do powered tools and y-axis
video is up:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0RBXeqWecL4
srry for the delay
