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So I'm seeing a couple of really good instruction sets for building your own printer, but I'm wondering how the quality is to something made professionally.

All of the test prints I've seen have very obvious imperfections. This isn't a huge problem because I figure you could always go and sand stuff down a bit, but I also wonder how strong the material is in comparison to traditionally manufactured plastic.

A 3d printer would be very convenient for making custom robotics parts but I want to make sure that it will hold up to a certain level of quality and stability.
Are diy 3d printers good enough?
Are 3d printers in general enough to create relatively solid plastics?
Should I just look somewhere else?

>>910102
Every plastic part in the picture you posted was 3d printed and they can withstand the forces required of a 4-axis robot (the printer). If printed on the printer in the picture, you can DIY something similar; I have an all leadscrew reprap.

So to answer your questions:
Probably.
Yes.
I dunno.

>>910121
Good enough for me, anon. Thanks a bunch.

>>910124
Happy to be of service. Careful though, it can be an addictive hobby if you're inclined to tinker.

What's the most reliable open source slicer/g-code generator? Mattercontrol/Cura/Slic3r/Skienforge/etc?

I'd like strong and sensibly infilled prints.

>>910330
Personally I'm partial to cura, mostly through ease of use but also because I've been burned by random bugs that in slicer. Nothing like random pathing errors 4 hours into a 6 hour print to wreck one's day. Skeinforge is unnecessarily complex imo. No experience with matter control.

just came into a secondhand cube (I realize how bad it/the filament is), is there any way to connect to it with repetier-host?
I used that with a lulzbot taz in one of my uni's labs to great success, but I've no idea how to set it up with this one

Thinking about buying one of these for my first printer:
http://www.aliexpress.com/item/Black-Factory-High-Quality-Precision-Reprap-Prusa-i3-DIY-3d-Printer-kit-with-2-Rolls-Filament/32357171936.html?spm=2114.01020208.3.47.c7KEzn&ws_ab_test=searchweb201556_2_79_78_77_80,searchweb201644_0,searchweb201560_1

Do you guys think it would be a good choice? I dont have a lot to spend and this seems like a good choice for something i can upgrade later on.

So I don't suppose anyone knows about this, but I might as well ask.

I was enlisted by my college to repair a Zcorp Spectrum 510 binder jet printer.

According to them, the problem is "repeated clogging of binding material" (which is basically glue).

The thing is out of warrantee (since the company no longer exists; its part of 3d systems now), so ir I fuck it up, no one really gives a shit.

Obviously I'm doing more research, but do any of you /3dpg/ers have experience with this?

>>910384
What's the printing head like? Is it akin to an inkjet?

>>910384
Yea, it's a lot like a canon inkjet print head.

>>910384
I know this sound stupid but you never know with some people so gotta ask it. Did they try reading the manual?

https://www.ucy.ac.cy/arch/documents/3d_Printer_Lab/Spectrum_Z510_Troubleshooting_Guide.pdf
>Cause / Problem Binder bottle cap clogged
>Likelihood + High
>Solution Wash cap in hot water

>>909451
All homemade printers Ive seen use filaments. Are there any homemade 3D printers that that use liquid resin or something other than filament? I want to make a highresolution 3D printer that doesnt use filaments

>>910585
/diy/ DLP printing.
Its similar to SLA printing with a vat of UV curing resin.
Biggest problem is a good projector is a decent chunk of change, and a cheap low resolution projector will give low resolution results.

>>910594
Is there a DLP printer on RepRap's website? How would I put together a DLP Printer?

>>910570
It's very possible. This is a university with a lot of people using the machine for a lot of different purposes.

Having a operator that hasn't read the manual isn't the out of the question.

>>910612
Check http://www.buildyourownsla.com/forum/
Also: DLP is a projection method, not a 3D-Printing method. That would be called
>DLP based SLA

>>910440
Is there a wiping mechanism or sponge where the head parks? is it possible to flush the lines?

>>910594
DLP printing is SLA, unless I'm missing something.

>>910612
There are several diy projectors on instructables but I can't vouch for their quality and the price of parts to build a halfway decent one may be just as much for a second hand projector. If you're intent on building one though for extra diy cred, I'd probably recommend this one http://www.instructables.com/id/Laser-Image-Projector/?ALLSTEPS for the infinite focus and reduced number of lenses.

>>910653
>Laser projector.
That one won't work. A still image isn't gonna get you far and the polarisaton filters in most LCD screens you could put in instead filter out most of the UV/nearUV rendering it useless

>>910661
Ah, I didn't know the polarization filters had UV-blocking properties. If that's the case, most, if not all, diy projectors are impractical.

>>910662
You can get non UV-blocking polarisators, but they are expensive. I went for buying a DLP projector instead.
XY-Laser scanners work to, but they can be a pain to calibrate.

>>910377
>http://www.aliexpress.com/item/Black-Factory-High-Quality-Precision-Reprap-Prusa-i3-DIY-3d-Printer-kit-with-2-Rolls-Filament/32357171936.html?spm=2114.01020208.3.47.c7KEzn&ws_ab_test=searchweb201556_2_79_78_77_80,searchweb201644_0,searchweb201560_1
The frame looks very weak and it doesn't offer a lot of support.

i have this one and the frame is much better constructed
https://www.3dprintersonlinestore.com/diy-kit/electron-3d-prusa-i3-kit

I purchased a Maker Select and the heated bed came with some scratches, will this cause an issue?

http://shop.prusa3d.com/en/3d-printers/59-original-prusa-i3-kit-with-lcd.html

Is this a good first printer? I also like the idea of supporting the guys who designed it.

>>911281

That was on my list too, and for the same reason.

But /diy/ and other forums recommended against it due to the acrylic sheet(?) for the frame and rods to make up the Y axis base. It's not the most stable design.

I eventually settled on a Prusa Steel.

Is there a simple guide on individually testing the electronics of a reprap before building? All the manuals immediately jump to assembling the entire thing which would be a bitch to troubleshoot.

In my case the electronics are: Mega2560+Ramps1.4+DRV8825+Nema17+Square-ish LCD.

>>911368
>>911281
It does not have acrylic frame. It is weird that it is not mentioned in specifications of the printer. But it is made from Dural ( aluminium alloy ), see: http://shop.prusa3d.com/en/3d-printer-parts/24-prusa-i3-frame-galaxy-black.html
and it is also mentioned in their video at 0:35 : https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7AS5dIE0pLc

The good: E3d Lite6 hotend, probably better quality electronics (board, PSU), metal frame, no soldering, you support the designer

The bad: M5 threaded rod for Z axis and coupling made of plastic tube (WTF??? Even the cheap chinese kits have some sort of trapezoidal thread with better coupling ), too much zip-ties, price (for that price I would expect at least e3d v6 hotend, maybe even auto-leveling)

I don't have this printer, so I am only making comments about what I see in their biuld manual: http://manual.prusa3d.com/c/Prusa_i3_Plus_1.75_kit_assembly#_ga=1.104044551.685923342.1449435360

Some other i3 you can check out: Bq i3 Hephestos, Wanhao Duplicator i3

Who else is going to buy a peachy printer?

>>911370
No not really.

They all rely on each other. You could run the arduino by itself but isnt going to get you anywhere doing it.

>>911440
Fuck that
Ill build my own and use their software for a fraction of the price.

Hell you have to build its enclosure and tank system as it doesnt come with it anyways.

>>911460
Its $100. What do you want from it?

>>911465
A little bit more than a piece of mirror, fishing line, and a 3$ laser pointer.

>>911370
I guess you could install the firmware and check if all your parts work if you wanted to. Just skip past the assembly of the frame and send some gcodes to it.

>>911440
No one here most likely.

>>911467
>I guess you could install the firmware and check if all your parts work if you wanted to

This
Put all that stuff together, then wire up the steppers
Install your software and then while its sitting there set the Vref of your steppers and test everything

>>911368
>>911428

Thanks for the advice. I ended up buying a Prusa Steel Kit from Spain whith better parts and cheaper shipping to my country.

One of my stepper motors will not move. Even if I apply pressure myself. Is this a problem with the motor itself or is there some sort of locking mechanism I am unaware of?

>>911553
a powered stepper shouldn't move at all.
if it's stuck even with the power turned off then you have a problem

>>911556
I guess I should have been clear, it just whines when powered and is still immovable when powered off. Would it be worth it to take the motor apart and see if there is something wrong with the bearing?

>>911557
>it just whines when powered and is still immovable when powered off.

When the stepper is powered ON, it will not move until given the command.
When it is powered OFF, but still plugged in it will have resistance to turning.

If it is off and unplugged, yet you cant turn it by hand there is something wrong with the stepper.

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I wish I had found this general before I had done this, but - my old PrintrbotLC decided to stop extruding, and I decided it was time for an upgrade anyway, so I went and bought a Prusa i3 straight from the source (Josef Prusa) for $599. Pic related.

How bad of a decision was this? Or, how good? From what I've read it's a really popular design and one that can be expanded/repaired easily if you know how.

>>910330
I've had relatively few issues with Slic3r, works pretty well and is really easy to pass models through once you have it set up.

>>911604
Already answered
Like 5 posts ago

>>911604
Several i3 reworks are cheaper and offer much better design tweaks and parts.

>>911606
Not really, there was only a few lines about how the frame was plastic (and apparently isn't), and an issue with the coupler being crap. I'm looking more for something like "When you build it, fix X and Y first" hopefully.

>>911607
I'd rather support the original designers than take my chances with some Chinese electronics burning my house down or something.

>>911428
There is nothing wrong with 5mm threaded rod.
Lead screws are nice but very expensive and can have slippage issues at rest.

And the point of the plastic tubing is to reduce banding . The metal couplers are the WORST when you are dealing with very slightly bent leadscrews. They ruin your print quality and are hard to diagnose.

>>911604
>How bad of a decision was this? Or, how good?

When other people are replacing their hotends, dead steppers, and electronics because they were the cheapest the kit maker could find, youll be printing away.

Its a good printer for the price.

>>911612
Terrible advice. Threaded rod =/= a proper trapezoidal leadscrew. If you have "slightly bent" lead screws, quit buying cheap shit from China. There is no way (speaking from experience here) that a plastic tubing coupler is superior to a flexible metal or spider coupling, unless you're absolutely scraping the bottom of the barrel using el cheapo threaded rod (do please don't do that).

>>911742
>Threaded rod =/= a proper trapezoidal leadscrew.

Absolutely.
One is vastly more expensive yet the performance is the same.

And I should have worded it better, its not necessarily a bent leadscrew, but there is a LOT of fine tuning and adjustments along the Z axis.
From all 4 corners of the smooth rod to the X carriage ends.

Its almost impossible to get them perfectly aligned, which can cause for binding.

Using a plastic tubing coupler eliminates printing quality drops because of it. Using an m5 threaded rod with 1 small nut eliminates the quality drops.

Using a hard coupler, using a m8 or m10 leadscrew with a large nut (or even a backlash nut) introduces stiffness into the printer causing all sorts of printing problems. There can be slippage at high speeds and at rest because leadscrews arent made to use vertically holding up a carriage.

This isnt a high precision CNC, this is a bunch of plastic and rod thrown together.
There are reasons they are being used.

Need help setting up auto bed leveling.

The problem is Z offset for z
>// these are the offsets to the probe relative to the extruder tip (Hotend - Probe)
>#define X_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER -36
>#define Y_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER 0
>#define Z_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER -0.7

So i do it like in YT vid. Lower the nozzle until i can just slide a office paper under it. At this point the light on the senzor is on. Then i lift the nozzle until the light goes off. The difference (0.7mm) i put in the FW under y offset.
So when i run M114 command in pronterface (z homed) it says it is at 0.7?

Is this ok?

>>911828
The problem with tubing couplers is that they introduce a problem with slippage. The threaded rod shouldn't sit on the motor axis so it needs to float atop. It's hard for tubing to grip the rod and motor axis tight enough for it to stay floating. And because grip is a problem, there is a possibility of the threaded rod doesn't turn as much as its supposed to each layer. It's also easier to make fine adjustments and have them stay with flexible metal couplings.

>>911844
I have never had slippage problems with tubing. Sure the rod does sit on top of the motor shaft, but they never slip.

Tubing is very tight when you shove it in, and then I put zip ties on top. It works exactly how it should.

On the other hand using metal couplings, I have had the set screws back out and some not be able to get tight enough.

I used metal couplers back when M8 threaded rod was standard
I bough another set when I moved to M5.
I almost did a full stepper upgrade to a set with flat shafts before I tried the tubing method.

For me, they introduced banding and set screws slipped way more often than tubing ever has.
I will never go back to them on this printer.

>>911828
The main reason threaded rod is used is that it's cheap. The performance difference is certainly noticeable and I'd suggest one of the best possible upgrades is to go from threaded rod to proper leadscrews. If you have issues with binding/slipping/etc., I'd suggest that your system is poorly designed, engineered or assembled.

>>911881
>The performance difference is certainly noticeable

In what tangible way?

>>911881
Also
The slippage occurs when the printer is off and the steppers are not powered. Threaded rod is made to bind under load, it keeps your carriage in place no matter what.
Leadscrews in a vertical position certainly can slip when the steppers are off and free to spin.
The way to correct that is using a large backlash nut which feeds into the stiffness of the axis.

You have to remember this isnt a precision CNC

>>911887
Threaded rod: intended to hold things in place.
Leadscrews: intended for linear motion.

>>911935
Absolutely!
So while being cheaper and more forgiving it also keeps your carriage in place better!

Again, if you can provide a tangible performance increase for having leadscrews, it might convince someone like me to drop the money on them.

A very marginal increase in accuracy wont translate into better prints.

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>>911742
How would you compare spider couplers vs. flexible couplers? I've never seen the spider couplers before today, and while they look like an interesting design, I'd imagine there'd be some issues with the two sides rubbing each other if the rods aren't co-linear. That, and how a lot of the ones I'm seeing don't seem to have a set screw to tighten them.

>>911973

(Disclaimer: I don't have a 3D printer. I'm a CNC guy, though.)

There shouldn't be that much difference between them for a 3D printer. Normally, with machine tools, the tradeoff is that the flexible couplers offer essentially no backlash in exchange for more flex, while spider couplers offer the opposite; less flex for more lash.

The thing is, the spider couplers are usually very slightly overloaded (to minimize lash), so you won't see much lash if they aren't transmitting much torque. Similar deal with flexible connectors; they really only flex enough to be a problem under higher load, which 3D printers don't really have.

If you're worried about it and have some cash to burn, look up bellows couplers. They offer very little flex and no lash, with the caveat being that they can't transmit much torque (and they're pricier), which makes them ideal for printers.

>>911948
You're obviously not going to take my word for it so try it yourself (this is DIY, after all).

http://www.banggood.com/3D-Printer-300mm-Lead-Screw-Z-Axis-8mm-Screw-Pitch-p-980650.html

>>911995
Christ, when you said "some cash to burn", I was expecting $30-60 - these things average 100+ (for non-Chinese-generic); what the hell for? What makes them so expensive?

I appreciate the comment, though; now I know more than I used to.

>>912106
>What makes them so expensive?

Somewhat niche product geared toward business/manufacturing equipment.

Everything occupying that market segment is expensive.

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ok i'm doing a Bowden set up. and i'm following this YT vid. I get everything except for the part at 10:36 where he talks about setting steeper motor driver to 3/4.

On the picture is my current situation how the SM drive is set when it was in direct drive setup.
Can someone tell me how to set it up so it is at 3/4 like in YT vid.
Also what does this switch do?

>>912256
damn forgot the YT vid link
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yLH4K1vNoXo

>>912256
I see no switch

well then, I expected from 30-60 dollar range! Great comment lul

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>>912262
Aren't the things that the guy in YT vid is point at with screw driver at 10:37 and the thing that I put in red circle on the picture, the same?

What is the guy point at? What is on my picture?
Can I still run Bowden setup?

>>912273
It's a potentiometer that regulates current to your motor. Yes, you can still set your system up for Bowden.

Anybody knows why when doing auto bed leveling the probe doesn't move to the center (or above) print bed? it stays at x y end stops (absolut 0,0). So it doesn't stop and hits the physical end of y axis?

>>912304
I mean the physical end of z axis

>>912273
>Aren't the things that the guy in YT vid is point at with screw driver at 10:37 and the thing that I put in red circle on the picture, the same?

Yes
The video has the standard separate stepper drivers, your all in one electronics board has them built in.

In all reality, you should have tuned and set every single stepper Vref before you started printing anything. Its part of the initial calibration.

>>912306
If you lurk these threads you'll come to realize, as I now do, that most these people will burn their houses to the ground.

>>912308
Ive been around since the first general, most people just want to jump right in blind and get printing.

Everyone does it, I didnt calibrate my first printer for like 6 months after I got it.
Nothing really wrong with it, the learning curve is pretty steep so you keep yourself busy doing all sorts of stuff.

It would just suck to have too much current flowing and kill a stepper, or that he accidentally blows a stepstick and has to replace the whole board

>>912312
So at what value is currently set at>>912256
?
Can I change it or not?

>>912316
http://reprap.org/wiki/Pololu_stepper_driver_board

A quick google search says the MKS is A4988 based

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What's the worst print fail you've had on your printers, /diy/?

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>>912391
another one

Both happened from the spool being wound up in itself and causing enough tension to restrict the print head from reaching the right height (and in the first webm, actually lifting the whole printer up)

>>912312
Fair enough; we were all noobs once. It just pisses me off when people can't be bothered to read anything in the sticky or some of the voluminous information out there. Reminds me of homework threads.

/snarc

>>912391
>>912394
Both shining examples of why not to leave your printer unattended during long prints.

>>912391
>>912394
>all metal E3DV6
>long print
>had rewired printer and forgot to replug in the cooling fan for the E3D
>printed hotend groove mount, PLA

>prints fine for a while
>eventually the heatsink gets hot as fuck
>completely fills the e3d to the top of the heartbreak with melted PLA, jammed
>the groovemount gets soft and drops the hotend letting it dangle as it continues to phantom print

It was the worst cleaning out the heat break, and I didnt have spare parts so it was interesting rigging it up to print out a new mount.

When the all metal E3D says to always use the fan, they mean it.

Can anyone recommend a low-table or TV stand for under $50 that's stable enough to put a Prusa i3 on? Also, should I be laying some sort of heat insulating material underneath the printer?

>>912626
if anything you need an enclosure. I'm needing to build something to retain heat for abs prints. Everything's warping like a bitch for me

About how tight do I need to tension my extruder? Right now I am just using a couple of springs from ballpoint pens.

I have a question, what lenght of light is best for light cured risins best? Same like for pcbs making like UV, just below blue?
Or threre are some risins for full spectrum?

>>912693
Tight enough that it very lightly cuts into the sides, but not deep as to deforms the plastic.

What I do is eyeball it at first. I have a bowden setup.
I pull off the PTFE tubing going to the hotend so I can see the plastic coming right out of extruder.

I physically hold the plastic on the intake side as hard as I can with my thumb and index.
Then I tell the printer to feed a lot of filament

I slip it, then slightly tighten then slip then tighten.
Quickly youll get to the point you cannot physically hold it and stop it from pulling through, and it will not be cut very deep

After a few times doing it, youll know how tight and what the cuts looks like

>>912626
Ikea Lack coffee table.
They're cheap as fuck, won't wobble much on level floors, and if you get two you can easily build an enclosure for it.

>>912796
Differs from manufacturer to manufacturer. resins for SLA printers are usually curing at UV to near UV wavelengths. Full spectrum curing resins either don't exist or are extremely expensive.
Also: >risins

>>912693
Tighter than loose but looser than tight. Don't crush the filament.

>>912816
This. Check the manufacturer's specifications.

>>912815
I have carpeted floors, do you think it'll be okay? 46" wide is a bit long though.

>>912814
Great advice, thank you!

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ok, i just jumped in on a 3d printer, something i wanted for quite a long time, but never really had the money to buy one (think makerbot) or the patients/ability to blindly dick around to build a reprap, found a printer, its based off a fairly decent if slightly flawed (though easily improved) design.

apart from a micrometer what else should i get?

i should mention, for the most part this is to print 3d models i make, nothing mechanical or prototyping, just i model things in 3d and would love physical objects.

im prepared for the things i print to suck dick, but be good enough that a bit of sanding and carving will get them to where i want, and if possible/i like it enough, cast it in some reuseable silicone and get a better non printed material to finish it.

so, with that in mind... what else should i get for the printer?

are there any cheap variable speed engravers?

anything i need to watch out for?

im also thinking bulk exactos blades, anyone know a good place to get them from?i remember a place sold them in bulk packs of 100 for cheapish, but cant remember the place.

>>912984
>micrometer
Unless you're an engineer or plan to be working with fine (and I mean FINE) details, a caliper will be sufficient.

If this is your first printer - unless you have a technical background, I HIGHLY recommend buying a kit, if at least just to learn about how to do it. Most printers I've seen can be set up with a piece of paper (thickness) and some common tools.

>im prepared for the things i print to suck dick
Due to your model-making skills, or printer quality? And define "suck dick". I got a $500 printer back when they were first coming out with consumer printers (PrintrBot LC, literally made 60% out of wood) and while the prints weren't pretty, they at least worked. I've fixed my faucet and plugged a... how do you call it, water pipe? (not native English) and it's worked so far. No problems.

>what else should i get for the printer?
>are there any cheap variable speed engravers?
I'd not recommend mounting anything except printing equipment on your printer. I don't think it'll end well.

>anything i need to watch out for?
On the printer itself, or when buying it?
Regardless: Level surface, dust-(relatively)-free area, not a wobbly surface, ideally one in an area where air is fairly stagnant (so the print doesn't cool and warp, but ABS FUMES ARE BAD FOR YOU, so don't sit next to it)

>bulk exactos blades
If you need specifically exactos, Michael's / JoAnn's sells them for <$5 a pack of 3-7 I think. If you're fine with trapezoidal utility blades, then Home Depot/Lowe's has large, wall-mountable packages of ~100-150 blades.

Any other questions?

>>912323
So if i understand this correctly. Turning it clockwise will increase the current and these for overheating possibility.

Turning it counter clockwise will decrease the current.
But i can't decrease the current to much because then there could be missed steps or generally it wont have enough power.

>>913051
Yes
Make sure you are positive you know what stepper drivers you have, then use the formula.

You need to set the Vref to how many amps your stepper is rated for. Its up to you how far you want to push them

Remember that the harder you push them the less accurate they can become, and can cause artifacts in prints.

>>913043
>caliper
just googled it, i always called the thing a micrometer, and when i google it, looking at youtube videos for the best ones, at least for me the first things that pop up where pic related, at least i know the right term now.

as for what i mean when i say suck dick, what i want is the quality of a resin based sls, or the power based professional ones, fmd will get things printed out, but its not going to be pretty, im also taking into account my lack of understanding 3d printing (beine new to it more so than inability to learn) so im going to get crappy prints for a good while.

what i mean with other things is stuff to clean up models, i'm going to be doing exclusively pla plastic (so acetone baths wont work) due to it being indoors and not easily if at all ventilated space.

and for exacto blades, i'm looking for ones that will fit into an exacto knife holder, i know there was a site that would sell bulk, and if i'm going through plastic, small packages of blades will add up as i know better than to ever use a dull blade, have second had experience when a delivery guy was dropping off an setting up a tv, dude cut his wrist bad because of a dull exacto knife.

cant think of any more questions.

>>913069
well the situation is like this.
I had the stock direct extruder set up until now. with standard bras teeth gear. It worked ok and it didn't overheat at all.
Now I have a Bowden set up with MK 8 teeth gear. Since the effective diameter of gear is smaller I had to crank up the extrusion speed from 100 to 150 to get the same amount of filament through.
I'm worried that the extruder driver will over heat and possibly kill the board, since I had to increase the feed rate and because I plan to use higher print speed aswell.
So I was thinking about lowering the current on the SM driver a bit to reduce the heat.

>>913071
I've found a paint/glass scraper (essentially a razor blade mounted in a holder) extremely helpful in removing prints from the bed. Ideally they should just pop off when you get things tuned (especially with PLA), but it helps to start. I'd also suggest a long pair of tweezers for pulling odd bits of filament off the nozzle and a decent level to help level things (obviously lol). If you do eventually progress to ABS, you'll find acetone treatment will do more for the surface finish than sanding ever could. A set of small files is also helpful for cleanup.

>>913090
Do you have active cooling (i.e. a fan blowing) on your electronics? It makes a big difference.

>>913324
im thinking of getting a small rasp for making little gears, any idea where i can go to look for them?

also, looking up a video on fixing prints, i'm thinking of getting a rotary tool to weld pla... anyone got experiance with that?

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>>913335
A set of small diamond files can be had for $5-10 from any number of websites, and probably at your local hardware store. I haven't used a rotary tool to weld PLA, but I have used a soldering iron. It works ok; I used an old tip that wasn't any good for soldering anymore. If you're designing your own parts and can incorporate little "reservoirs" on mating surfaces, hot glue gun glue woks reasonably well (without a reservoir you'll wind up with a gap from the glue, if that makes sense).

>>913325
No only passive cooling with heat sink. I could add the small fan though.

>>913481
I think it's worthwhile to do so, especially considering your board has integrated stepper drivers based on the pictures you posted earlier. With a ramps setup, you can pop out drivers, whereas with yours if you burn one out it's much harder to replace, and you might even have to replace the whole main board. A cheap fan might save an expensive board, so it seems worth it in my mind.

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I need some help improving quality
I have just changed setup from direct stock to bowden I have some annoying problems.
On the picture the are 3 calibration cubes.
The left and the middle (cut in half to see the wall layers not sticking together) are new done with bowden, the most right is done with the stock direct setup.
The extruder is calibrated correctly, so it pushes exactly the amount of filament as it suppose to.
The problem is the prints look like there are under extruded. Normally with direct setup before I got the outer dimension to big and inner dimensions to small. Walls to thick. Now the dimensions are smaller and walls are thinner as they suppose to be. IT looks like the layers in the wall do not stick together. Also the corners are pointy. it feels like there is not enough filament coming out from nozzle

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if I increase the flow to 125% it is better (the walls feel much more rigid) but the pointy corners and under dimensioning (like 0.2mm under what it should be, walls are also still thinner ) are still there.

>>913563
>>913565
Are you sure you've calibrated your e-steps correctly? Bowdens are intrinsically fussier than direct drive for any number of reasons.

>>913601
nope it is pretty much on spot
Down in description here it says the 1522 steps/mm is recommended se i was not off by much.
http://reprap.me/extruder/mk8.html

I just don't get why the parts look so under extruded and bad .

>>913921
damn I mean 152 steps/mm

>>913921
Fair enough, but if you're having to boost your flow to 125% to get acceptable prints to me it implies that you're underextruding 25% using the esteps in your firmware. Flow rate adjustments, at least for me, rarely exceed 1-2%, and even with that I'd rather tweak the esteps.

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>>913947
Yeah and this is bothering me
As you can se the strings in a layer do not bond together well.

>>913563
>>913957
Did you change the nozzle? Did you change nozzle diameter setting in slicer or maybe Infill/perimeters overlap settings or maybe Extrusion width settings?
Is it possible that your filament diameter is smaller than it should be?

>>913968
at first I didn't change the nozzle but the results were the same. then I changed the nozzle and it was still the same. The filament diameter is pretty constant as far as I measured it (1.77 - 1.79). Maybe I will try with some 3d prima filament, now I'm using some Chinese no name.

I changed the filament diameter setting in cura from 1.75 to 1.65 and it is better, but this is pretty much the same as changing the feed rate.

>>913974
how do you save steps/mm? Do you reupload the firmware or do you save on EEPROM?
If the last one , try to read settings from EEPROM to see if everything is OK: http://reprap.org/wiki/G-code#M501:_Read_parameters_from_EEPROM

>>913992
i'm doing the corrections through FW uploads.

>>912815
The Lack Table seems like a bad option. It can only hold a max limit of 50lb but knowing Ikea it'll probably get weaker in a few years. Especially if you put an enclosure on it. Their Stuva storage frame seems like they could made good enclosures though.

>>912815
>>914662
For ~$100 you can buy a preconfigured aluminum extrusion frame to make a proper enclosure.

http://us.misumi-ec.com/vona2/detail/110302285350/?Inch=0

>>914689
"Oh, hey, this looks useful. Picked out parts, now to get the model / parts list - "
And it requires shittons of personal info. Seriously? That sucks.

All of you who have i3.
Could you please share what acceleration setting are you using. Also could you add what setup are you using (direct,Bowden,..)
Also at what speeds do you normally print

>>914761
If you configure it and go to the "Parts number" tab and hit "Check Price/Ship date" it'll give you the price, no personal information required.

If it gives you any peace of mind, it's a reputable company. Pretty sure facebook/google knows more about you than you'll have to input, regardless.

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>>914999
Splendid, thanks.

I'm a little disappointed, but not entirely surprised, that a 500x600x500mm frame costs so much. I wonder if I could find something cheaper, if I just bought X lengths of extrusion and assembled it myself. On Amazon, certainly looks like it; 1.25m for $10.

>>915012
You could absolutely do it cheaper if you part it out, I just find Misumi has excellent technical resources (and extremely high quality product$). It's a good place to window shop before buying the cheap chinese knockoff versions of things lol.

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Have any of you guys tried out buildtak? I just made 2 beds with it and I'm pretty happy. I was having trouble with my PEI because it was not perfectly flat. This stuff was easy to apply, transfers heat better than PEI, and my parts stick to it like fuck.

>>912391
I forgot to change temps between PLA and ABS. It printed the base fine but went all wonky about 1cm up. Surprised ABS printed and stuck to the bed at all with PLA settings set.

>>912394
So you don't keep an eye on your printer while it's running? That's a good way to start a fire.

>>915199
I do want to try it out but I have a bad habit of bashing my hotend into my build surface. From what I've read, it's easy to accidentally melt it by doing stuff like that. Between that and the price, I'm still on the fence.

>>915203
It is a little much, but I wasted a lot more on PEI so I figured it was worth a shot. I got a 3 pack and wrecked one sheet already by trying to pop something off when it wasn't cool enough. It stretched the material and had to waste the sheet. That one had bubbles in it anyhow. The two others I did came out perfect because I applied them to the glass a bit differently.

I guess if you ever upgrade your printer with auto-level you wouldn't need to worry about melting it with the nozzle.

>>915203
>>915208
>>915199
A sheet of kapton worked fine for me for a year or so, even considering it had small bubbles.

it did manage to somehow creep off so the edge now overhangs the print bed, but I'm planning to rebuild the entire thing (won't extrude properly) and I'll just get another sheet or something.

I've also heard painters tape works well.

>>915213
Both kapton and painters tape didn't work out very well for me. I gave up on tape when PEI worked much better, but this new stuff sorted out my remaining grievances.

I read somewhere you can use unheated xylene vapor bath on pla to soften it up and make it rubbery. Has anybody tried this? I know xylene is generally nontoxic but will the PLA still be safe to work with after it's been treated? This could be a cheap and easy way to make flexible 3d prints.

>>915214
I find PEI and/or glass and the purple disappearing glue stick to work quite well for ABS and PLA. With a decent enclosure a lot of warping/delamination issues completely disappear (pretty sure drafts are a major culprit). That said, I'll probably eventually pick up some buildtak but I'm in no rush.

>>915295
I made two beds with PEI and they were not flat. I could not get good prints off of them and pei isn't cheap.

>>915344
I've used thin (~1mm) PEI stuck to glass with a big sheet of high temperature double sided adhesive (3M 468MP) for quite a while now (almost a year I guess) without issue. It was fairly curvy before I stuck it to the glass, but it's flat enough for me now. I agree that it isn't cheap, but after a year of printing it's essentially as good as new.

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Do you guys know if it is possible to make a wrist watch in a 3D printer?
I mean make the whole mechanism and make it water resistant

>>915533
Like a mechanical watch? Lol no. You could probably make a housing for a quartz watch, it would probably be lame. Watch face might be tough.

>>915538
Why not anon?
Plz elaborate

>>915555
Plz give my quads an answer

>>915556
Plastic is too soft to use for a watch. 3d printers cant make parts as small as what goes in a watch. Even very cheap mechanical watches still need jeweled bearings in order to keep a reasonable lifetime of reasonable accuracy.

>>915567
Thanks for the answer mate.
Do you have any links on making watches?
I think I'm going to make a new threar just to discuss that.

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>>915533
Maybe these would be of interest to you bro.

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>Single largest hero of the 3D printing world
>makerbot... not so much

>>915199
I'm having issues that my builds are too adhesive, and won't come off without like a knife.

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anybody else have an original printrbot?

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>>915957
Looks like what you have is the Printrbot Jr 2, not the original one (but still a fairly early model).

Pic related is what mine is (Printrbot LC); it's worked... well enough, but I could never really get it calibrated proper. I've made bits for around the house (pipe plug, faucet ring) as well as just little trinkets, but I decided to buy a Prusa i3 to really get going with 3DP because my LC finally decided to stop working proper (won't extrude enough, and grinds away the filament instead of feeding).

>>915725
Im not sure the guy villainizing and pushing the media is much of a "hero". Overall hurting the hobby by using it as a platform for his own agenda.

>>915966
>>915966
>implying more freedom hurts people
Go back to Russia, commie.

>>916150
taking a hobby, and presenting it as something controversial when it isnt, and then going to the ignorant media about it is not "more freedom"

Its putting the seeds into people to make laws taking away your freedom.

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The robot devil is quite pleased with the direction this thread has taken. Politics is one of his favourite topics.

>>909451

My prusa i3 with PLA in 185º/60º, with Marlin/pronterface/Slic3r, all to last version, seems to have problem while doing the pieces, since it does the weird thing of leaving "dropplets" of plastic.

Why it does this? Do I need to recalibrate the motors? Or might be something else?

>>916307
You have to give more details or a picture. When you say "droplets" do you mean the nozzle is oozing plastic?

>>915725
that guy is a huge faggot who commercialized open source why would you like him? there are people who've contributed much more significantly to defending 80% lowers then that king faggot

>>915570
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rL0_vOw6eCc

>>916313
No that fag that started makerbot is the one who started out open-source and then sold out everyone. The guy in the image is Cody Wilson. The first guy to print an actual working fucking gun with a 3d printer. Before that, all I saw was little 3d figurines and other less than useful stuff. Think about it. This guy put these things on the map.

>>916333
If I wanted a gun, I'd buy a gun. This thread is about 3D printers. Take it to /k/ or /pol/.

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>>916333
>Before that, all I saw was
Well you didn't look hard enough then. FDM machines were usefull in prototyping for quite a while. Maybe that's not what you percieve as usefull, but in that case you are on the wrong board. Diy is pretty much like prototyping but often without the intent to ever get a finalised product.
See pick related. It's a laser triangulation sensor I clocked together from a webcam and a laser pointer. 3D-printing parts for it saved me time and effort. That's what I call usefull.

>>916333
>The Liberator
>Useful at all
>Good for anything except making a political shit storm
It was the size of a drain pipe and could sort of shoots a couple rounds of .22lr

It was even worse than the original Liberator, at least that was .45

>>916310
>>916310
> do you mean the nozzle is oozing plastic?

Yes, ever few milimeteres it leaves a big droplet of plastic

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>>916333
>less than useful stuff.
I don't think you realize, but for those of us that actually make our own designs we do so because they are useful. Things like adapters, couplers, supports, rails, housings, fittings, standoffs, battery clips, assembly jigs, etc. The list goes on of parts that are well in the specification for a printed part that would very rapidly run up the cost of the $500 kit if every time it meant a trip to a hardware store, fucking around with wood, or having it machined. Just because the printed cat armour isn't good or usefull for you don't assume we're all here just downloading other people's junk off thingiverse.
>This guy put these things on the map.
For all the wrong reasons. All he did was attract media attention that presented not his models, but the entire concept of 3d printing to cause panic with clickbait articles, 80's terror music on tv, and heavily edited bold news banners in the papers.
What no one reported is that it's among the most retarded ways of making a firearm. $20 at a home depot will get you the materials and tools needed for a better device. No one reported any other uses of 3d printing. Like modelling something before sending it out to be machined. Or printing a part that isn't under much stress but is crucial to the larger project.
While his endeavour still is brought up occasionally, it took a while for the collective mass to forget about him and start going "MOG #DPRINTUD Cut ARMUR! ZMOG!!!" like drooling retards. Don't know which popular perception is better for the development.

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>>916448
+1 to you sir.

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Has anyone tried PETG? I bought a roll of it at a Microcenter last weekend. The only advantage I've heard of it is that it's a bit stronger(flexible?) than PLA and doesn't warp as much as ABS. Not much else besides people suggesting brands.

>>916380
Do you by chance have a picture of a part being printed?
Do they come out stringy?
Have you seriously crashed the nozzle into the bed(glass or aluminium)?
Are you using a bowden or direct drive type extruder?
What plastic are you printing?
Try giving a bit more information when asking a question that way it's easier to help.
>>916460
>common sense
Well, not really. It's just something I like to call selective information. Not everyone will see a device or a technique and wonder what other things can be done with it. Even when it's something this malleable, they seem to lack further thought or analysis. All they see is either a ribbed plastic cannon or http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1199078
For a bit of anecdotal evidence: Gf's brother welds, and often machines small parts and such in his garage. Upon seeing the printer in action and the use I've given to it in my projects, he asked how could he get one. I offered to print everything for him to have a prusa, and help with purchasing everything else. It's always very rewarding going over and asking what every model is for, how did he print it, and how well did it perform. Six months later, he is offering me an all metal [aluminum or steel] metal frame as a project over the break and a place to try out casting for the first time.

>>916471
I've been trying it, but I can't get it to stick to shit. It doesn't stick to blue painters tape, build talk, or glass. Any suggestions?

>>916529
I'm confused. Are you having bed adhesion issues or a leaking hotend?

>>916529
I've never had a problem sticking with painters tape. in fact it may be sticking too much. are you sure you're close enough to the bed? there should be a smush on that first layer

also I've always had a leaky hotend

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>>916529
I use polimyde tape and hairspray. Pic related has been working well and was a massive bottle on clearance. I spray from a fair distance away so it lands on the bed almost dust like, while it's heating up. Then, when it's cooled down, removal is easy, but may still require some finesse.
I started printing pic related, made sure it wouldn't burn the apartment complex down, then went out to dinner.
256C nozzle, 150um layer height. I think.
It printed fine, just wrong dimensions and very stringy, which caused some blobs of material to stick to the nozzle and then fall onto the print. I'll try again tomorrow.
Also I didn't get the finish I was expecting.

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>>916629
is what it's supposed to look like.

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>>916529
Cum directly on glass actually works pretty well for me.

Can you guys recommend any PLA? Apparently Amazon hatchbox hasn't been good lately, I'm seeing some bad reviews recently.

>>916315
Watching this was both interesting and saddening.

Just look at the clarity with which information is presented.

No attempts to be "funny". No "before we continue, be sure to share on Facebook and buy my product". No memes.

Things really have gone downhill.

>>916629
how much does an east end haircut cost?
pan-ten

>>916529
Personally I like a combination of blue painters tape and elmer glue sticks. I've now have an over adhesion problems and got the cuts on my knuckles and hands to prove it.

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Perhaps PETG isn't so bad.
>>916874
I haven't had any good PLA since the first two kilos that came complimentary with my first bought printer. And I didn't keep any information, all I know is it had a printing temperature 190-230. It was decently strong, unlike the floppy abs I had been working with until then.
>>916893
I much prefer older documentaries. They somehow felt more complete and focused, rather than eye candy. Granted if there is actual interest, we have the internet nowadays to fulfill whatever a documentary missed.
>>916898
I had those as well. Lately I've changed my methods. If it isn't delicate, light tapping with a jewler's hammer or another printed piece helps dislodge them from cooled kapton. If that fails, I lever with a pick.

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>>916898
>>916912

I use the cheapest hairspray brand I could find, straight on the glass platform. I print lots of large parts in ABS without any kind of warping.

>>916912
I heard Polymax from Polymakr is excellent, but it's like $55 for 0.7kg. It's stupidly expensive.

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Anyway to measure, with a multimeter, the output current from a stepper driver to find out which direction of turning the trimpot corresponds to increasing or decreasing the current?

The internet mention that the direction differs from driver to driver, manufacturer to manufacturer and country to country. So I don't want to take any chances.

>>917079
You might be able to meaure the current trough one coil of a connected stepper. You shold be able to thell what direction increases/decreases. Don't expect that what you measure is the actual value though.
You also should be able to feel the torque on a running stepper. More current means more torque.

>>917082

Can I measure directly between the 2 wires going to the first coil, without actually connecting the motor?

I don't think I have any place to measure from if the motor is plugged into the board.

>>917091
>Can I measure directly between the 2 wires going to the first coil, without actually connecting the motor?
no
>I don't think I have any place to measure from if the motor is plugged into the board.
Cut one of the 4 wires. Insert multimeter between both ends.

>>917079
If you can't deduce it by looking how the PCB is wired, measure the voltage from the trimpot wiper. Higher voltage = higher current, at least with DRV8821 in your pic.

>>912394

looks like a crowd gathered to watch after the birdnest.. then the webm continues?

wtf diy. am I watching some shitty art installation?

>>917079
http://reprap.org/wiki/Pololu_stepper_driver_board

Short version, you measure Vref (the voltage difference between Vref and GND) and do some math. You're not going to damage the motor or the driver by doing it empirically so I'm not sure why you'd bother, but that's how you do it.

>>917115

Doesn't high current damage the driver?

>>917221
The current creates heat
cheaper motors and motors not rated for higher power will heat themselves to death if its cranked too high. With that said, they are stout so if you run them with too much voltage for a short time when changing settings wont hurt anything. Cant say that it would last a 3 hour print though

Steppers can get pretty warm and be fine, if its too hot to touch roll it back some

I finished building my kossel. But whenever I send a G28 it just starts to go into the bed as opposed to up towards the end stops.

I can't seem to figure it out. Am I supposed to invert the way the motors are turning?

>>917343
>Am I supposed to invert the way the motors are turning?

If your motors are turning the wrong way, flip the plug on Ramps

>>917352
Very good. I probably should have deduced that the wiring schematic I was using was incorrect.

Thank you.

Instead of making another post. anyone get a low pitch whine after your motors are finished moving? It stops if I send a stop motor command. So I'm thinking one of the motors is stuck on trying to do some small movement. It goes away after 30 or so seconds as well.

>>917355
The default setting in the firmware is usually to keep the motors on when not moving to help maintain position. It may mean that your stepper current is a little high, but if everything seems to be working I wouldn't worry about it.

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So i'm printing a charismas toy for a kid. Got the model and stl file from A MS builder app.
So I was wondering what is that app suppose to do. IT is a slicer? or 3D modeling app? All I can do is import model to it and then order print online?!

>>911466
There are over 50 parts.

>>917969
To be fair, most of the pieces are just printed plastic pieces.

>>917584
I don't understand your questions, what do you mean by app and "IT" ?

Anyone try ngen? I'm thinking about ordering some. Apparently it's easy to work with like PLA but is as strong as ABS.

Been watching 3d printers for years. Good time to buy yet? Ideally 8x8x6 or greater. Linux ofc.

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So I got my i3 built and ready, but I'm not quite sure how to hook it up to the computer to print. It came with an 8gb SD with like 10 files on it, one of which I printed, so it works fine with the SD - but I'm clueless how to use it with a comp. Since there's imitation / replica i3s all over the place it's hard to find a specific guide for how to do this. Will just Slic3r and Pronterface work? Should I use something else? Should I ignore the comp altogether and just stick stuff on the SD?

>>918503
Reading further, according to page 21/22 of

http://www.prusa3d.com/wp-content/uploads/Prusa-i3-manual-1.75-en.pdf

Pronterface shouldn't be used and the SD card is the ideal way to print.

This is nice. Now I can just load up a bunch of files and lug the printer around anywhere there's an outlet.

>>918503
Usually you can connect to computer with USB cable with type B connector on one side (normal printers are also using this connector).
Check the manufacturer website, they usually provide pre-configured Slic3r, Cura, or Repetier-Host

>>918509
>>918503
Found what I was looking for; the link is sort of hidden (in the sense that "I can't find it and was linked to it by a representative"), and it's not really a "driver" as such but the v1.6.1 download at the top is an EXE that installs Slic3r with a bunch of Prusa settings.

http://www.prusa3d.com/drivers/

Any one know any good e book or academic / scientific articles on basic of 3d printing.
Something on history of open source of 3d printing,.....

>>918534
I know only two books: Brian Evans: Practical 3D printers and 3D printing for Dummies
They do cover the basics of 3d printing, but I am not sure if they are "scientific" enough.
I remember that there are some older printers described in one of these books, but I don't think there is any chronological order of 3d printers.
Maybe this would be helpful: http://reprap.org/wiki/RepRap_Family_Tree

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Mines Bigger

Anons, looking for a "printer" that can pretty much print titanium parts. Whether it uses lasers or if I have to buy a CNC machine, what do you recommend?

Are there fiberglass printers?

Making a home made prop-jet pack kind of thing. Yeah its gonna be big. No idea what I'm doing. Gonna just get to work.

>>918723
http://www.eos.info/systems_solutions/metal/systems_equipment
or
https://i.materialise.com/materials/titanium

Never heard of fiberglass printers. Maybe you can use braiding machine? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VbYWd6NXAXk

post pictures when you will finish.

>>917977
That's wrong also considering most are laser cut.

>>918971
Are you trying to convince yourself that the Peachy isnt a ripoff?

Any one know where i can get a CLEAN torrent for simplify3d

the uploads on kat and pirate bay have backdoors on them

>>918692
thanks. Im currently reading 3d printing for dummies. Will look for the other one.

>>918723
>printer printing titanium
Now, I don't want to discourage you, but (at least last I heard) metal printing with steel or aluminum is more akin to "welding" than 3D printing, at least if you're talking about printing with metals and not powders you have to sinter later or filaments that have some % metal for the look (but are nonconductive and have a low heat transfer coefficient).

If possible (which, judging by >>918739 I'm a bit behind on the times), it'll probably be fairly expensive and not really a hobbyist thing.

If you're looking to create functional mechanisms I'd go for an actual CNC rather than a metal printer, since those are sort of novelties and for prototypes instead of parts. You're simply unable to get the proper crystal structure as you would with traditional manufacturing methods. Failures on parts would probably be on par with something made with powder metallurgy, I think.

I could be super wrong about all this, though, since I haven't taken a detailed look at metal printing in around a year or so.

Is there any way to look at print ETA on Slic3r? I've seen some posts that say there is, some that say there isn't (not in these threads), but neither says where it might be.

>>918287
I mean.
What is that app suppose to do? Is it a slicer for making g-code? or 3D modeling app? All I can do is import model to it and then order print online?!
I can't print from it with my printer.

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>>918534
The term you are searching for is "additive manufactoring". 3d-printing is a buzzword for faggots, "makers" and other oxygen thieves.

>>918993
https://www.simplify3d.com/buy-now/

>>919019
Maybe it's an app by some printer company? You're not giving very much useful information. What is the app called and why have you not tried googling it yet?

>>919037
sorry I mean "3D Builder" app that comes preinstalled in windows 10.

>>919035
>>919035
yeah I found that out soon. Also had some luck with FDM and FFF terms since I was looking for this kind of 3d printing.
Mostly looking through Science Direct but a lot of articles there cost.

>>909451
2d printer is just a cnc machine right? So is there a project and set of plans somewhere to look at for a modular version? So you can swap out the head and change from 3d printing to cnc cutting or laser cutting?

Been thinking about making the shitty cd rom scrap parts printer so I could make parts for something better.

>>919108
>2d

3d

>>919108
The major issue is the disparity in the forces required for additive and subtractive manufacturing . The toolhead for a 3D printer encounters very little resistance, whereas the toolhead for a CNC mill encounters a lot. Essentially if you want a CNC meeting mill you need a very rigid (ie expensive) frame, which is total overkill for a 3D printer. Also, a 3D printer can and should move the head much faster than a mill. That said, it has been done.
That said, it has been done.

>>919127
Damn phone ...

>>918980
No, I'm buying one. Just don't like false info being posted. There are legitimate concerns like the lack of bigger prints in their videos or the non standard build reservoirs and cost of the resin. Still for $100 I don't think these are that bad of excuses.

>>919108
>>919127
Right off the bat I'm warning you if you want to CNC anything other than "soft" metals (aluminum, bronze, etc.) such as steel, you'll need a different power outlet, like the one your washing machine or stove hooks up to.

>>919035
While the first half of your post is fair,
>oh yeah, let me just go home and manufacture something on my additive manufacturing machine for tomorrow
sounds dumb. It's a buzzword in the same way "car" is for "automobile".

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What's causing this? New printer (but not my first), and first time I've ever seen this problem. My thoughts are:
>Nozzle diameter incorrectly set in Slic3r
>Slicing settings assume extruded plastic will "flow" more than it does (and make thicker walls)
>Slicing settings for some reason put perimeters too far apart
I've had this problem on all my prints so far, but don't really know how to fix it. The result is that my prints seem very fragile and the top layers seem "disconnected", even with (supposedly) 6 solid layers on top.

PLA with Prusa i3.

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>>919423
Option 4 I just thought of: Underextrusion? How would I fix, if any of these 4 issues?

Pic related is finished print, with the "disconnected" top layers.

>>919247
To each his own I guess, its all up to the buyer to decide how much he can deal with.

Literally every single operation, from the ground up, is just so hacky and awful that I could never justify buying it. It feels like something I would throw together out of random junk I have laying around.
It also seems like a really bad and dead end first printer, not something to really get your feet wet and build upon.

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>tiko "liquifier" having build quality issues
>tiko software still nowhere near done
>tiko pushed back their estimated delivery date once again

I love it

What's your favorite site for hosting and sharing files?

>>919423
>>919429
Jea you are underextruding. Measure your filament diameter and make sure your E-stepps are corect. If that doesn't help use the extrusion correction value to fix it.

>>919486
4chan.com

>>919489
Dang. I might have a bit of an issue with that, maybe; I was used to using Pronterface for all my movement controls and such, but apparently it doesn't support all the features the RAMBo does - I don't know if that means I /shouldn't/ use it or that I can but just won't be able to use certain features (none of which I probably need for extrusion correction). I'll take a look at it tomorrow morning, thanks for confirming my suspicions.

>>919486
filedropper is fast and works well

>>919495
extrusion correction and filament diameter selection are usually done in the slicing software of your choice. (Pronterface is not a slicing software)
Calibrating E-stepps is done in whatever frmare you got running.

>>919486
Rghost
Bitcheese

>>919423
In slicer you have to set correctly: Nozzle diameter, Filament diameter, Extrusion multiplier/Flowrate (maybe also Infill/perimeters overlap)

In firmware: E steps/mm for extruder (maybe also for Z axis)

>>919549
>>919497
I don't know how to do anything with the firmware, and I'd rather not touch it at all for fear of me messing something up, so I'll just make the corrections in Slic3r. All axes are fine except for E AFAIK.

>>919622
This might be helpful : https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YUPfBJz3I6Y

And don't be afraid of firmware. It's very easy to change basic settings. Basically you just find settings for steps/mm and change the number. It also has a lot of comments that describe each "function".
I was at first also afraid of firmware, because I had zero experience with programming and electronics, but it is written so simply, that it is easy to understand.

Check it out for yourself: download your firmware from manufacturer website or maybe SD card, then search for Configuration.h (you can open it with Notepad or Notepad++), then under Extruder configuration find #define EXT0_STEPS_PER_MM (this is for Repetier firmware, for Marlin it should be something similar) and change the number.

If you want to upload that to your board you need to download Arduino IDE, choose your board, open .ino file (in my case Repetier.ino) and than change what you want to change, connect printer and upload.

You should have that written probably somewhere in your Manual, so maybe follow their steps, It has been a while since I did this for the last time, so I might have forgotten something. But once you do it, you will realize it is very simple. And it is very useful to change speed, accelerations, jerk, steps/mm, motor current,....

>>919647
This is good advice, and I agree.

>>919622
You're going to kinda have to if you make any modifications. Welcome to DIY, reprap style.

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How do I fix this? The temperature keeps spiking for no apparent reason, and the printer immediately shuts itself off.

>>919708
You have a short or a loose connection in your extruder thermistor circuit. Check the connection at the board first and if that's not it, pull the whole thing, find the short and fix it.

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>>919647
>>919649
So turns out there are two presets, one of which I didn't see, and they were for 1.75 and 3.0mm; I was accidentally using the one for 3mm so there was ~3-4x less extrusion than there should have been. Fixed, I guess, but thanks for the info, will keep it in mind.

>>919820
I'm glad you got it sorted out. Messing with the firmware isn't that bad, as suggested, and it's useful to learn more about what's going on "behind the scenes." Just make a backup of the working version if you decide to play around.

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I'll just leave this here.

Merry Christmas to all!

I'm looking to replace the stock bearings on my Wanhao Di3. So I should get better linear bearings instead of Igus plastic bushings or bronze bushings?

>>920000
My experience with brass bushings is that they are a little louder than regular linear bearings and make a weird swooshing noise that gets on my nerves. No experience with plastic bushings.

Also, nice get.

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Where can I find more of this? Came with my Prusa i3 and I'd like to source more before I run out. Only sites I see are in Czech.

http://www.kores-praha.cz/produkty/lepidla-lepici-tycinky/lepici-tycinka/

Should I get a Kossel Mini?

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>>920156
I use pic related and it works great for me. Available everywhere.

>>920156
This is probably some local Czech brand. In US and UK they usually recommend Elmer's glue. I tried UHU glue stick, it kind of worked: It did stick to the print, but it stuck too hard on a print and was peeling off the bed, when I removed the printed object. I have also tried Pritt glue stick, which didn't work at all.
Now I am using white wood glue based on PVAc. It works really good with PLA. I have applied it and waited couple days to slowly dry. I did this in September and still works.

I have a bunch of components i dont need anymore. where should i sell?

>>920257
>I have a bunch of components left over. How do i build a second printer?

FTFY

>>920257
Depends where are you from. Ebay, Craigslist, local online flea market, local 3D printing/electronics/tech forum,...

But I agree with >>920276

>>920242
>>920245
Really? That's splendid, I didn't know it could be substituted by regular stick glue.

>>920363
The purple stuff is also water soluble so you can wash the residue off the bottom of the print (and it turns purple when you do it!).

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Souvenirs from Jersey.
Why the hell is it so hard to obtain metric parts in 'murrica?
You'd think that it being such an advanced country we'd have access to both systems.
>just use SAE, anon.
Haven't been able to find bearings for SAE rods.
The steppers, drivers, and bearings are on their way. Hopefully I can finish my pcb mill before I have to return to work and school.

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>>920391
Here's something I found super helpful:

http://www.mcmaster.com/

Has... shitttons of parts. I don't even know how to categorize what sorts of things you'd find there, but pretty much: if you need it to make a prototype, it's there.

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>>920391
>>920405
Misread, thought you were looking for rods, here's a sample of the bearings page.

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>>920406
my point exactly. I went to their store during a vacation trip, since there isn't any in my area and shipping is always ridiculous. I think I have oil or condensation on my phone's lens.
Just look at those prices. $30 for a single bearing? They may be high quality, but that's still ridiculous when compared to these others.
http://amzn.com/B00AGCRBL8

>>920413
dont fucking get imperial sized linear bearings if youre gonna do reprap stuff. its actually one of the easier places to get metric (easier than fucking canada)

8mm linear bearings go for like $1 each and because of reprap and china you can get them in like every country

>>920276
>>920289
I dont even want the first printer. i'll come back to 3d printing tech when i can cheaply build high resolution metal pieces.

i live in toronto. where do i unload this crap?

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>>920426
god damn you have no reading comprehension.
I struggled to find metric sizes at an affordable price, until I went on a trip almost 9 hours and found I was near a McMaster Carr. They have metric shafts so I can use the widely available LMxUU bearings, at much cheaper prices than I'd find the equivalent SAE bearings to use with the more available SAE rods. This wouldn't have been an issue if I had found the shafts in the proper diameter[metric] in a local hardware store as I would have in Europe or even my home country in Central America.

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>>909451
ok, got a question, what is the easiest no bullshit 3d program to make a model in? i have a thing i want to make with my first print, long time ago i got bit in the mouth by a spider, i had left a soda can open and alone for less than a minute, right now i just use whatever i can get my hands on to put on top of the can, i want to make something purpose built.

i have the diagram, i have how many mm i want everything to be, but i cant think of a program to use for this, i tried sketchup, but it feels more like its for dicking around in than actually getting precise measurement, i cant image how i would do it in blender, and any sculpting tool... yea i got nothing.

>>920728
oh, and if anyone is wonder, i have been told that printers can handle a 45 degree lip, so i made the whole thing at a 45 degree angles to add a bit of leeway to everything.